ou’ve been thinking about a big birding trip for years. You’ve earned it. You deserve it. You’re Gavin Shire Yready to make it happen. But as you begin to in- [email protected] vestigate, you quickly discover that you are confronted

by a confusing array of options, with no central resource that has all the infor-

mation in one place to tell you how to get the biggest bang for your birding

buck. It’s like being in a big restaurant faced with a huge, imposing menu. What

you need is the waiter to come to the table with a list of specials—a few fresh,

new ideas that speak to you and help you make up your mind.

Now there is something new for the ambitious birder; something that will surely tip the scales for many of us trying to decide where to go on that special trip. It’s called Conservation Birding, an idea being championed by the American Bird Con- servancy (ABC). Conservation birding speaks to the perennial desire of birders to see rare and interesting species, while challenging them to expand beyond the sim- ple notion of birding for birding’s sake. The focal point of the initiative is an interactive website that features an eye-popping Google Earth component, links to bird call audio and video downloads, plenty of great-quality photographs, and a nest full of other birder information bytes. The site reflects an ongoing evolution in the broader world of ecotourism from the initial “Do no harm” mantra of early industry pioneers to a “Let’s do some good” ethos that capitalizes on a more educated public whose desire to see rare species and habitats is

The endangered Long-whiskered Owlet was first discovered in 1976 near Peru’s Alto Mayo protected for- est, east of the Abra Patricia pass. This tiny owl has been desig- nated an “Alliance for Zero Ex- tinction” species because of its very limited range. Ama- zonas–San Martín, Peru. Photo by © David Geale.

52 BIRDING • SEPTEMBER 2010 The spectacular and endangered Marvelous Spatuletail is a Peruvian endemic. A conservation easement with the local Pomacochas Commu- nity ensures the protection and proper management of about 100 acres of significant habitat for this hummingbird. More than 30,000 native trees and shrubs have since been planted there to create even more suitable habitat for the species. Pomacochas, Peru. Photo by © Roger Ahlman. matched by the wish to support the conservation of those company Neblina Forest, said much the same thing in a recent same places. online commentary in Birding . She This approach is coupled with the fact that birding eco- reflected on how Ecuador’s incomparable Mindo region was tourism is no longer the sole purview of hardy, youthful risk saved from commercial development by birders, and she noted takers prepared to withstand long, arduous treks on uncom- the urgency for residents of the Mashpi region—another leg- fortable, overcrowded public buses and trains, sleep on the endary birding destination in Ecuador—to follow the example floors of roadside shacks, and subsist on occasional small of the Tandayapa Valley. In a companion piece in Birding meals of suspect origin. Today’s birding tourists are often afflu- , Glenn Bartley tells the story of Angel ent, older, and less willing to sacrifice comfort for a chance at Paz, formerly a farmer in the Mindo region. When the birding expanding their lifelists. bug hit Mindo, Paz converted the family farm into a highly Unlike places that have witnessed conservation change due profitable community nature preserve, with a special focus on to funding through foreign donations, places supported by preserving habitat for several rare antpitta species. The Refugio birding tourism dollars can, if done right, have the advantage Paz de las Aves, as the property has been renamed, is “an essen- of sustainability, and are not continually reliant on U.S. organ- tial stop for any birder visiting northwestern Ecuador,” accord- izations for grants and funding. ing to Bartley. “Birding tourism is one of the best ways to achieve sustain- Certainly, tourism has its limitations as a source of conser- ability for reserves, with the added benefit of providing eco- vation revenue. Plenty of places are simply too inaccessible nomic opportunities to the nearby communities,” says Victor ever to be well served by visitors, and others are perhaps too Emanuel, President of Victor Emanuel Nature Tours. “Families sensitive to risk the influx of significant numbers of people. It that would once have had to destroy the habitat around them is also crucial that ecotourism for conservation be developed in order to subsist can now make a better living helping to pre- according to a conservation plan. The haphazard and uncoor- serve it, earning income as reserve guides, guards, and dinated proliferation of hotels, restaurants, and tour compa- ecolodge staff, or providing services outside the reserve such nies staffed by over-eager and poorly trained guides does no as souvenirs, food, and additional accommodation.” one any favors in the long term. And it is also important that Mercedes Rivadeneira, co-owner of the Ecuadorian bird tour some of the revenue from the tourists go to support the local

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economy and provide an alternative source land, the Royal Society for the Protection of of income for residents. Birds (RSPB) and the Wildfowl and Wet- An early practical application of the con- lands Trust (WWT) have both successfully cept that ecotourism could positively influ- prevented development on thousands of ence the conservation of rare species and acres of land by creating a number of easily help local communities came in 1996, accessible bird sanctuaries. Tourism revenue when Rainforest Expeditions teamed up generated by thousands of passionate British with members of the Infierno community birders and foreign tourists helps sustain the to create the Posada Amazonas project in refuges and support local economies. Tambopata, Peru. The lodge is owned by WWT’s most recent venture is the London the community and co-managed with Wetland Centre, close to the heart of the Rainforest Expeditions, under the auspices country’s capital, where a series of disused, of a committee elected by a communal as- concrete-edged reservoirs was converted sembly. In return, the community receives into wetland habitat that now attracts more 60% of the lodge’s profits. The vulnerable Golden-plumed Para- than 200 species of birds, including water- The conservation benefits have been keet has experienced rapid population fowl, shorebirds, waders, and raptors, 80 declines throughout its range because of clear, including a reduction in hunting, a habitat destruction. The species has been pairs of Bank Swallows (Sand Martins), and halt in the local trade of wild animals, and helped by the provisioning of nest boxes even the occasional Hoopoe, Cetti’s Warbler, the creation of conservation zones for the at reserves operated by partners of the and endangered Eurasian Bittern. Where protection of rare species, including the American Bird Conservancy. Tapichalaca there may have been yet another London Reserve, Zamora–Chinchipe province, Harpy Eagle. The economic and social ben- Ecuador. Photo by © Franco Morocho. housing or shopping development, a rich efits to the community have also been sig- environment now thrives for birds that is nificant, with increased infrastructure for health, education, sustained by as many as 200,000 visitors per year. and transportation, and further income opportunities from the The new Conservation Birding initiative calls on birders to sale of handicrafts to tourists. take their binoculars and field guides to somewhat more exotic Even in developed countries, ecotourism can be critical to locations in Latin America, and put their money where it will preserving, or in some cases recreating, bird habitat. In Eng- do birds the most long-term good—bird reserves that are am-

The Ecolodge at Abra Patricia is located within an almost-8,000-acre montane cloud forest preserve, adjacent to a 450,000-acre protected area. The local bird list includes 317 species, including the endangered Long-whiskered Owlet, which can be heard from the lodge. Amazonas–San Martín, Peru; September 2008. Photo by © Mike Parr–American Bird Conservancy.

54 BIRDING • SEPTEMBER 2010 The critically endangered Blue-billed Currasow has declined throughout its northern Colombian range because of defo- restation and hunting. The species is starting to regain ground, however, in protected areas such as the El Paujil Bird Reserve, established by the American Bird Conservancy and its partner Fundación ProAves. Smithsonian National Zoo- logical Park, Washington, D.C.; September 2009. Photo by © Mike Parr–American Bird Conservancy. bitiously attempting to protect habitat for the world’s rarest more about all the featured reserves and ecolodges with an and most spectacular species, as well as our wintering migra- overview of the key attractions, bird checklists, and a photo tory songbirds. Now, making a trip to see the Lear’s Macaw, gallery of facilities and the environs. Surfing through the infor- Marvelous Spatuletail, or White-winged Guan can play a role mation on the 7,900-acre Abra Patricia Reserve will bring you in saving them. face to face with one of the rarest creatures on Earth—the ABC has partnered with 16 Latin American bird conserva- Long-whiskered Owlet. At last check, more people have been tion groups in 12 countries to establish 37 bird reserves that to the moon than have seen this fist-sized bird in the wild. Go protect more than 300,000 acres. The reserves provide habitat to Abra Patricia for real and—who knows?—you could get vital to more than 2,000 bird species—nearly half of the total lucky and see it, making you a member of one of the most elite number recorded in the Americas. Of these, 14 species are clubs in the world. considered critically endangered under the International Other star birds at Abra Patricia include Ochre-Fronted Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) World Conservation Antpitta, Royal Sunangel, and Lulu’s Tody-Tyrant. A fabulous Union criteria, 44 are considered to be endangered, 80 vul- high-definition video of the Marvelous Spatuletail in courtship nerable, and 107 near-threatened. So visiting these places of- display is also linked here and alone would be worth the time fers the potential for both once-in-a-lifetime to visit this site. birding and immense gratification from hav- One country where birding tourism is ing your proceeds help keep these vital re- rapidly gaining popularity is Colombia, and serves operating and protecting the very one lucky group of visiting birders recently birds we enjoy so much. made a special discovery when they found The website currently targets four coun- a previously unknown species of owl—the tries—Peru, Ecuador, Colombia, and Bra- Santa Marta Screech-Owl—during a bird zil—and includes extraordinary levels of tour to the El Dorado Reserve in the north detail on seven of the 36 reserves. Details on of the country. Another previously un- other sites will be added soon. The website Populations of the endangered Yellow- known species of antpitta was also recently makes it easy for the prospective traveler to eared Parrot have rebounded in recent discovered by local ornithologists at another years, thanks to intensive conservation see and plan a trip. And what better way to measures, including the provisioning of of the ProAves bird reserves. do that than to take a virtual tour deep into artificial nest boxes and the protection While the Conservation Birding initiative one of its featured, lush, tropical reserves? of wax palms in its montane habitat. was taking shape, the local in-country or- For example, the Northeast Andes route Central Cordillera, Colombia. Photo cour- ganizations were busy improving and man- tesy of © Fundación ProAves. in Peru takes you north from Tarapoto to aging key habitat at the reserves. Seven of Huembo, passing through Moyobamaba and Afluente, with the rarest bird species already have shown measureable popu- the Abra Patricia Reserve, owned and managed by Asociación lation increases due to management actions. Habitat loss for Ecosistemas Andinos (ECOAN), as the highlight destination. many others has been halted, and reforestation initiatives are Once you know which route you want to take, you can learn ramping up at 12 of the reserves. So far, partners have planted

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more than a million native trees to restore habitat and create re- When you begin to think about that next big, special birding serve buffer zones. Several of the reserves lie adjacent to large trip, think Conservation Birding. What more could you ask protected areas, and these are helping to create corridors of for? You can experience: world-class birding, including hun- wildlife habitat across the wider landscape. Some reserves are dreds of rare or endemic species; beautiful, exotic locations; implementing green technologies such as solar panels, fuel-ef- and the ability to do almost all your planning from the comfort ficient stoves, and micro-hydroelectric projects for the local of your home. Best of all, you’ll be helping to preserve these communities. spectacular birds for decades to come.

In Search of the Long-whiskered Owlet—and Sustainable Support for Bird Reserves

hen I announced to my birding friends that I was going which was organizing a promotional trip for birding tour com- Wto visit the Abra Patricia Bird Reserve and ecolodge in panies and guides to familiarize them with what the region has northern Peru, their response was predictable: “Fantastic! to offer. As a communications staffer with American Bird Con- Maybe you’ll get to see the Long-whiskered Owlet.” And in- servancy, which has supported conservation in Peru and deed, I did hold out some hope that I might be one of the few throughout Latin America, and has helped fund the new people in the world ever to see this enigmatic and recently dis- ecolodge at Abra Patricia, I was given a coveted extra spot. covered bird. But as someone who had never visited Peru or This was a unique opportunity to see firsthand what we and the Andes, I knew that whatever happened, it would be a great our partners at Asociación Ecosistemas Andinos (ECOAN) opportunity. have been able to achieve in protecting vital habitat for the The offer to visit Abra Patricia and several other northern owlet and other rare endemics. Peru birding hotspots came from the government of Peru itself, The trip was greatly condensed, meaning that what would

Wax palm habitat is essential for the continued survival of the endangered Yellow-eared Parrot. This endangered palm is Colombia’s national tree, and it is benefitting from intensive conservation efforts. Roncesvalles, Tolima department of Colombia. Photo courtesy of © Fundación ProAves.

56 BIRDING • SEPTEMBER 2010 These native tree seedlings are destined for forest restoration efforts in and around Peru’s Abra Patricia Reserve. The restored forests will eventually benefit the Long-whiskered Owlet, Marvelous Spatuletail, and other endemic bird species. Huembo Reserve, Pomacochas, Peru. Photo by © Mike Parr–American Bird Conservancy. normally be a 12- to 14-day itinerary was packed into just six. guides, as garish flocks of tanagers, flycatchers, euphonias, and We began at the Tinajones Reservoir, just west of the town of honeycreepers descended upon us. This must have been the Chongoyape, where we set up our scopes for long-distance most intense two hours of birding I have ever spent, racking views of Striated Herons and Savannah Hawks. We then drove up dozens of new species while still missing half of them. a short way north to the dry-forest habitat of the Chaparrí Pri- For me, our arrival at the Abra Patricia Reserve and vate Conservation Area. Here, we were treated to up-close ecolodge signaled the high point of the trip. The reserve was views of the critically endangered White-winged Guan, and a created to protect the only known site for the endangered not-so-close sighting of an Andean Condor silhouetted mag- Ochre-fronted Antpitta, but it is becoming best known for the nificently on a mountain ridge top against the blue sky. The endangered Long-whiskered Owlet, described to science just pleasant lodge at Chaparrí, which uses solar power and water recently. This diminutive owl is an enigma and is placed in treatment systems to reduce its environmental impact, also af- its own genus, Xenoglaux, meaning “strange owl.” It has been forded us a delightful morning watching Tumbes and Amazilia seen only a handful of times since its rediscovery, none of hummingbirds, Purple-collared and Short-tailed woodstars, which, I’m sorry to now reveal, was by me or my fellow bird- and other hummingbirds bathing at a rock pool, plus unrivaled ers this time. views of Burrowing Owls, and even a Sechuran fox. Abra Patricia also provides critical habitat for other globally From Chaparrí, after an enjoyable cultural stop at the an- threatened endemics, including the Royal Sunangel and Ash- cient ruins of Huaca las Ventanas, we began the steady climb throated Antwren, and is a wintering area for neotropical mi- into the Andes. The habitat changed dramatically along the grant birds that breed in the U.S., such as Alder Flycatcher, way from the hot, parched landscape of Chaparrí to the cac- Swainson’s Thrush, and Blackburnian Warbler. It is also a key tus-dominated desert scrub around Bagua Grande, then to site for the critically endangered yellow-tailed woolly monkey. lush mountain forest. With the promise of the Andes looming The forests in and around Abra Patricia once were protected in the haze ahead, the change of habitat around us brought by dint of sheer inaccessibility, but the recent construction of fresh opportunities for roadside birding stops, with such gems a paved road brought logging, agriculture, ranching, and as the Little Inca-Finch, Peruvian Plantcutter, Roadside Hawk, poaching to the area. Each year saw more and more habitat and Lulu’s Tody-Tyrant. loss as trees were felled, prompting ABC to partner with As we transitioned to the cloud forest of the Alto Mayo re- ECOAN to assure the survival of more than 7,000 acres within gion, the birding evolved from a relaxed, serene pastime to a the reserve and to instigate the creation of an adjacent 17,000- manic, chaotic flurry of binoculars, scopes, cameras, and field acre conservation concession.

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The President of ECOAN, Tino came clear just how important Aucca, greeted the arrival of our birding tourism is in sustaining group with excitement. We were local economies and enabling among the first to stay at the reserve’s conservation to thrive. new ecolodge, heralding what Tino It is not solely tourism that is hoped would be the start of a success- helping reserves continue to op- ful marriage of the reserve with eco- erate, though. ABC’s Colombian tourism that will contribute to his and partner Fundación ProAves has ABC’s goal of self-sustainability for developed another innovative Abra Patricia. way to bring in sustainable rev- Nestled into the cloud forest habi- enue—coffee. Traditional coffee tat, among the elfin trees draped with plantations provide significant emerald green bromeliads and epi- habitat for wintering neotropical phytic orchids, the comfortable and migrants such as the rapidly de- attractively designed lodge provides a clining Cerulean Warbler, but perfect base for exploring the reserve with a drop in the market price and nearby conservation area. of beans, many plantations have “Birders hold the key to our fu- switched from varieties that grow ture,” Tino told me. “We need to find best under the canopy of a way to bring in revenue in a sustain- broadleaf shade trees to those able way, and ecotourism not only The endangered Jocotoco Antpitta is restricted to the that produce higher yields in full generates funding for our operations, montane cloud forests of the Tapichalaca Reserve, where sun. The trees have been cut but it also provides income for local it was first discovered in 1997. Much about this unusual spe- down and the wintering migrants cies remains to be discovered. Tapichalaca Reserve, Zamora– people who work as rangers and pro- Chinchipe province, Ecuador. Photo by © Franco Morocho. have disappeared accordingly. vide food for our guests. This gives ProAves now owns a shade cof- them a reason to support continued land protection rather fee plantation as part of the Cerulean Warbler Bird Reserve, than destructive farming, logging, and poaching.” which it operates in conjunction with a local coffee growers’ The Long-whiskered Owlet may have eluded us this time, cooperative. These shade-grown beans are sold only to whole- but near the reserve we were treated to an endangered en- salers, but beans from another nearby plantation, operated in demic hummingbird whose plumage is so remarkable that the the same manner, can be purchased online directly from the species has been given the name Marvelous Spatuletail. Two Thanksgiving Coffee Company , giving peacock-like feathers, each almost twice the length of the bird’s us all the opportunity to get our morning caffeine fix and save torso, extend from the tail of the male spatuletail, terminating birds. ProAves hopes that within the next few years, they will in an iridescent blue fan. When fluttered rapidly in courtship generate enough revenue from the sale of coffee to support display, these “spatules” give the impression from a distance their entire operations at the Cerulean Warbler Reserve, plus that the poor bird is being harried by a pair of annoying bum- a significant portion of the costs at their new Pauxi Pauxi Re- blebees. serve. They have recently purchased a small shade cacao plan- This hummer is a real habitat specialist, with the result that tation with the idea of further supporting operations at Pauxi its range is extremely limited. We saw a male, a female, and Pauxi, so perhaps one day we will be able to help save the crit- two juveniles at a small piece of remnant habitat that was saved ically endangered Chestnut-bellied Hummingbird and vulner- from destruction by Santos Montenegro, a local resident who, able Helmeted Curassow by eating chocolate. Now that’s thanks to ECOAN, now manages it for the conservation of the something to look forward to! spatuletail. Overall, I saw more than 160 lifebirds in just a few days on Time and again throughout the trip—from Chaparrí, where my trip, including several rare Peruvian endemics, but my last- residents of the nearby town turned out to welcome us; ing impression was of the tremendous dedication of the re- through Bosque Pomac, where we presented school children serve managers, and their creative efforts at engaging with prizes for their drawings of the endemic birds; to Abra Pa- community support in their conservation endeavors. These tricia and its environs, where the fate of the Long-whiskered projects will succeed because they have found a way to make Owlet, Marvelous Spatuletail, and other highly imperiled en- conservation a viable financial alternative for local communi- demics rest in the hands of committed local biologists—it be- ties. All we need to do is fly over and join them.

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