BAPI-006 Floriculture and Indira Gandhi National Open University School of Agriculture Landscaping
Block 7 LANDSCAPING UNIT 1 Landscaping: Principles, Elements and Adornments 5 UNIT 2 Garden Designs – Types and Styles 50 UNIT 3 Rock Garden, Water Garden and Indoor Garden 71 UNIT 4 Cacti and Succulents Garden 97 UNIT 5 Terrarium, Bottle Garden and Tray Landscape Garden 127 UNIT 6 Terrace Garden 141 UNIT 7 Bonsai 156 UNIT 8 Hanging Basket and Flower Arrangements 174 Programme and Course Design Committee Dr. K. Prathapan Dr. Harpal Singh Mission Director, State Horticulture Mission-Kerala Principal Scientist (Rtd.),G-20/A, Kiran Garden, (Govt. of Kerala), Sunny Dale, Mead’s lane, Main Najafgarh Road, Uttam Nagar Palayam, Trivandrum-695034 (Kerala) New Delhi
Dr. Room Singh Dr. S.V.S. Rathore Principal Scientist (Rtd.),HIG-II/110 B-39, HIG, Near Paschim Crossing, Swarn Jayanti Nagar, Ramghat Road, Shastri Puram Aligarh (Uttar Pradesh) Agra (Uttar Pradesh)
Dr. S.S. Sindhu Dr. R.L. Mishra Principal Scientist, Department of Floriculture and C-04, Brahma Apartment,Plot-7 Landscaping, Indian Agricultural Research Institute, Sector-7, Dwarka, Pusa,New Delhi-110012 (Delhi) New Delhi
Dr. Prabhat Kumar Dr. Neera Kapoor Assistant Professor, Department of Horticulture, Professor, Life Science,School of Science, College of Agriculure, G. B. Pant IGNOU,Maidan Garhi University of Agriculture and Technology, New Delhi Pantnagar, Dist. US Nagar (Uttarakhand) Faculty from School of Agriculture Dr. M.K. Sheikh Prof. B.S. Hansra, Director Head & Professor, Horticulture College of Prof. M.K. Salooja, Professor Agriculture, University of Agricultural Sciences Dr. S.K. Yadav, Reader P.B. No.-18, Bijapur (Karnataka) Dr. P.K. Jain, Lecturer Dr. P. Vijayakumar, Lecturer Dr. P.K. Jain Er. Mukesh Kumar, Lecturer Professor & Head, Department of Horticulture, Dr. Mita Sinhamahapatra, Lecturer Jawaharlal Nehru Krishi Viswavidyala Jabalpur (Madhya Pradesh) Programme & Course Coordinator : Dr. S.K. Yadav Block Preparation Team Writers Dr. Alka Singh, (Unit 9) Dr. R.L. Mishra, (Unit 1-3) Asst. Prof. (Horticulture) Floriculture, Co-ordinator (Rtd.) College of Agriculture, C-4, Brahma Apartments, Plot No-7 Navsari Agriculture University, Sec. No-7, Dwarka, New Delhi-110075 Navsari-396450 (Gujarat)
Dr. K. Swaroop, (Unit 4-8) Editor Senior Scientist, Division of Floriculture and Dr. S.S. Sindhu, (Unit 1-9) Landscaping, Indian Agricultural Research Principal Scientist, Department of Floriculture Institute (IARI), Pusa, New Delhi-110012 and Landscaping, Indian Agricultural Research Institute (IARI), Pusa,New Delhi PRODUCTION TEAM Mr. Kulwant Singh Mr. Hemant Parida Assistant Registrar (P) Section Officer (P) MPDD, IGNOU, Maidan Garhi, New Delhi MPDD, IGNOU, Maidan Garhi, New Delhi
January, 2021 Indira Gandhi National Open University, 2020 ISBN : 978-93-90496-06-8 All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced in any form, by mimeograph or any other means, without permission in writing from the Indira Gandhi National Open University. Further information on the Indira Gandhi National Open University courses may be obtained from the University's office at Maidan Garhi, New Delhi. Printed and published on behalf of the Indira Gandhi National Open University, New Delhi by the Registrar, MPDD, IGNOU, New Delhi. Laser Typeset by Raj Printers, A-9, Sector B-2, Tronica City, Loni (Gzb.) Printed at : Raj Printers, A-9, Sector B-2, Tronica City, Loni (Gzb.) BLOCK 7 LANDSCAPING
Landscaping is an important activity under horticulture. The land pieces not looking aesthetically good can be developed through landscaping. Many avenue plants are suitable for planting in such places to improve their beautification. These plants can convert a barren land into garden. The concept of rock garden has also been discussed in this block. The lawn is an integral component of landscaping. Similarly, the concept of terrace garden has also been explained.
This block has 09 units. It explain landscaping principles to major plant species for developing a piece of land. Description of hanging baskets and floral arrangement are also explained in this block. Landscaping
4 Landscaping: Principles, UNIT 1 LANDSCAPING : PRINCIPLES, Elements and Adornments ELEMENTS AND ADORNMENTS
Structure 1.0 Objectives 1.1 Introduction 1.2 Principles, Elements, Garden Features, and Garden Adornments 1.2.1 Basic principles 1.2.1.1 Proportion 1.2.1.2 Balance and Order 1.2.1.3 Repetition 1.2.1.4 Simplicity 1.2.1.5 Unity 1.2.1.6 Transition 1.2.1.7 Rhythm 1.2.1.8 Focalization 1.2.2 Elements 1.2.2.1 Line 1.2.2.2 Focal Point or Emphasis 1.2.2.3 Form 1.2.2.4 Texture 1.2.2.5 Colour 1.2.2.6 Variety 1.2.2.7 Grouping 1.2.2.8 Mass 1.2.2.9 Scale 1.2.2.10 Sequence 1.2.3 Various Garden Features 1.2.3.1 Garden Walls or Fencing and Entrance or Gate 1.2.3.2 Dry Wall 1.2.3.3 Paved Garden 1.2.3.4 Terrace or Terrace Gardening and Roof Gardening 1.2.3.5 Hanging Baskets, Verticals and Plant Containers 1.2.3.6 Arches, Pergola, Arbour and Trellises, and Screens 1.2.3.7 Hedge and Topiary, Bonsai and Edging 1.2.3.8 Borders (Annual, Herbaceous and Shrubbery or Mix) 1.2.3.9 Trees, Shrubs and Climbers 1.2.3.10 Carpet or Design Bedding, Flower Beds and Sunken Garden 1.2.3.11 Bog and Water Garden 1.2.3.12 Rockery or Rock Garden 1.2.3.13 Bandstand, Gazebo, Gatehouse, Lath House and Thatched Huts, Conservatory and Greenhouse 1.2.4 Garden Adornments 1.2.4.1 Walks (Paths, Pavements, Steps, Stepping Stones), Drives and Roads 5 Landscaping 1.2.4.2 Garden Seats and Straddle Stones 1.2.4.3 Ornamental Stone Basins or Tubs, Urns and Vases and/or Wells 1.2.4.4 Ornamental Rocks or Stones 1.2.4.5 Ornamental Pillars or Towers, Statues, and Bird Baths & Bird Houses 1.2.4.6 Sundials 1.2.4.7 Floral Clocks 1.2.4.8 Hills, Water, Watercourses, Waterfalls, Streams, Fountains, Culvert and Bridge Work, Islands, and Light 1.2.4.9 Plant Stands 1.2.4.10 Stone or Japanese Lanterns 1.3 Let Us Sum Up 1.4 Key Words 1.5 Further References 1.6 Answers to Check Your Progress Exercises 1.0 OBJECTIVES
After going through this unit, you will be in a position to: explain various terms used in landscape gardening, describe various elements of landscape gardening, identify various garden features to be installed or constructed for creating a garden, know about various garden adornments necessary for landscaping a piece of given land, and explain bio-aesthetic planning and city pollutions. 1.1 INTRODUCTION
Landscaping combines elements of art and science to create a functional, aesthetically pleasing extension of indoor living to the outdoors. One initial purpose of landscape design is to blend man’s technology (house or building) into the natural surroundings. To work toward a desirable landscape horticulturist must have a working knowledge of art elements and design principles.
The “art” is always changing as the plants grow, environmental conditions change, and people use the space. For this reason, landscape designers use a design process that systematically considers all aspects of the land, the environment, the growing plants, and the needs of the user to ensure a visually pleasing, functional, and ecologically healthy design. The design process beings by determining the needs and desires of the user and the conditions of the site. With this information, the designer then organizes the plants and hardscape materials, which are collectively referred to as the features. The features can be physically described by the visual qualities of line, form, color, texture, and visual weight – the elements of design. The principles are the fundamental concepts of composition – proportion, order, repetition, and unity – that serve as guidelines to arrange or organize the features to create an aesthetically pleasing or beautiful landscape. Knowledge of the elements and principles of design is essential to designing a landscape and working through the design process. 6 Landscaping: Principles, Moreover, landscape plants also improve environment by using CO2 for photosynthesis and by release of oxygen. Even the turf area of 250 m2 release Elements and Adornments enough oxygen for a family of four. Apart from soft landscape (use of plants), the landscaping involves hardscape (physical features) which includes fences, retaining walls, paving (walks or paths) and drives, terraces, patios, irrigation systems and water features, and lighting. Landscape gardening is the application of garden forms, methods and materials for improving the landscape in a way that it also blends with the surrounding landscape, and creates scenic beauty in a poetical form. Landscape design is the practice of creating a plan to make the best use of available space in the most attractive manner. The people associated with landscape design fall either into the group of landscape architects who are trained in designing the functional plans on the interrelationship of people and their surroundings through their talents in engineering, graphic arts and architectural technology, or in the group of landscape designer who are trained in the art and principles of design and the science (the identification of plants and their cultural requirements) of growing ornamental plants.
Landscaping is a best alternative where through judicious use of horticultural plants we can purify the air which we breathe in. Through judicious planting even noise pollution can be checked. Even inside the house, through proper interiorscaping we can purify the air. Inside the house we can put indoor plants, on the roof all sorts of ornamental plants, along side the roads and streets various trees (small and large, flowering and non-flowering), shrubs and climbers, and elsewhere in the city by creating various good parks and gardens, which will function as the city lungs apart from giving a picturesque view for recreation, shade and shelter, will also serve as a place of solace, meditation, tranquillity and achievement.
Looking into the requirements of an individual or for public utility, the gardens may be of various kinds, viz., family garden [usually formal in design with a safe space for children playing, and having flower borders, fruits and vegetables, and a terrace, courtyard or patio (a paved area adjoining a house used for entertaining the guest, for extra sitting or for outdoor dining and recreation or a roofless inner courtyard, normally with no lawn, for sitting out in the morning or evening and an informal eating place which is special in the sense that it has variety of ornamentals in containers, viz., rare plants, herbs, bulbs, dwarfed trees, fruit trees and shrubs which can be moved with convenience for creating shade or light, and all around climbers as specimens on railings or in the form of trellis, pergola or arbour, if space permits a small fenced pool at a quite illuminated place, and artificial lighting), roof gardens and balconies are also laid out similar to patios except that such gardens are quite exposed to sun and wind though balconies are more shaded and where pots and troughs of trailing plants are also kept on the brackets and shelves of the house wall, formal outdoor living room garden with limited space having steps, low walls, often with raised pool and container plants, open-plan garden on the ground normally sloping away from the house from where surrounding landscape is viewed and where on the terraces, fruits and vegetables may also be grown apart from growing ornamentals in containers, formal gardens where land is forced to fit the plans, are simple, symmetrical and well proportioned, punctuated with the large beds of lawn, and marked out with low evergreen hedges and filled in with annual bedding plants (parterres, which were very popular during Victorian and Edwardian periods, especially in municipal parks and gardens, though it is confused with knot gardens 7 Landscaping but these are larger and consist of regular and flat flower beds planted with compact and colourful bedding plants interspersed with gravels of different hues in decorative pattern under a particular design outlined with neatly trimmed low hedges, especially evergreens trimmed into globes or pyramids or preferably in formal shapes but these should be commensurate to the size of the house or adjoining terrace), knot gardens which was very popular in 16th century, based on knots and strap-work pattern of English Elizabethan and Tudor needlework and plaster ceiling decorations, is in fact a form of interlacing bands and abstract patterns prepared with colourful plants, coloured gravels or sand outlined with low and well clipped hedges whose beauty can be viewed from an elevated place, raised terrace or from the window of the house, topiary is the living sculpture made in the form of a bird, an animal or various other shapes (spiral, pyramid, sphere, cone, etc.) often in the formal gardens or sometimes in informal gardens but not in the naturalistic or wild garden, to add height, shape and sculptural interest, and a topiary garden is that where various suitable trees and shrubs in groups in a sizeable area proportionate to the design are shaped into tall globes, rectangles, pyramids, spirals and various other shapes, and this may be a focal point in the garden, secluded sanctuary garden or sunken garden which is rugged in appearance and is generally screened by planting various climbers, or through pergola or arbour to maintain privacy, cottage garden which is informal in layout with or without water feature and contains many unusual and interesting plants, may be utilitarian planted with fruits, vegetables, herbs, shrubs, flowers often fragrant ones, sometimes lawns, all crowded in a very small area, and has paths made from cobbles, gravels or bricks or edged with pansies, sweet alyssum, dwarf antirrhinums, pinks, lavender, etc., woodland garden (normally a subject of temperate climate) can be made by planting shrubs, bulbs (anemone, cyclamen, fritillaria, snowdrops, tulips, etc.), herbaceous plants, and near the woodland streams various bromeliads, primroses, foxgloves, orchids, etc. conveniently below the naturally grouped trees and where paths are made in zigzag fashion so that it merges with that environment, wildlife and conservation garden which may even be quite large in area and which provides alternate natural habitat for a wide range of plants including the endangered species as well as certain fauna like dragonflies, butterflies and other insects, frogs, various species of migratory or otherwise birds and so on but such gardens should have sufficient food and an ever-filled pond for the flora and fauna to survive, pasture and meadow gardens which are planted with the local perennial ornamentals so that these may naturalize in meadows and in grassland, and water gardens which may be formal or informal and planted with marginal, deep water, floating and submerged aquatics, and oxygenators with some suitable ornamental fishes.
Through bio-aesthetic planning, a term coined by Prof. Lancelot Hogben, we can create parks and gardens by proper utilization of available flora and fauna (non-carnivorous or non-violent animals and beautiful migratory or otherwise locally found birds) for an added recreation, where people may have natural attraction and where children may also like to frequent their visits out of curiosity. Prof. Abercrombie has described planning as “conscious exercise of the powers of combination and design, and not a question of unconfined growth, even though the latter may produce fortuitously happy results”. In the words of late Dr. M.S. Randhawa, a well known naturalist of the 20th century in India, “for the healthy and balanced development of a nation, wealth in the form of material goods and food are no doubt necessary, but a beautiful environment is just as essential”.
8 Landscaping: Principles, 1.2 PRINCIPLES, ELEMENTS, GARDEN Elements and Adornments FEATURES, AND GARDEN ADORNMENTS
1.2.1 Basic Principles
It is important to understand that the principles of design must be applied at all of the levels that people will experience the landscape. Design principles guide designers in organizing elements for a visually pleasing landscape. A harmonious composition can be achieved through the principles of proportion, order, repetition, and unity. All of the principles are related, and applying one principle helps achieve the others. Physical and psychological comforts are two important concepts in design that are achieved through use of these principles.
People feel more psychologically comfortable in a landscape that has order and repetition. Organized landscapes with predictable patterns (signs of human care) are easier to “read” and tend to make people feel at ease. Psychological comfort is also affected by the sense of pleasure that a viewer perceives from a unified or harmonious landscape. Users feel more physically comfortable, function better, and feel more secure in a landscape with proportions compatible to human scale.
The basic principles of landscape design are as under :
1.2.1.1 Proportion
Proportion refers to the size of parts of the design in relation to each other and to the design as a whole. Relative proportion is the size of an object in relation to other objects. Absolute proportion is the scale or size of an object. An important absolute scale in design is the human scale (size of the human body) because the size of other objects is considered relative to humans. Plant material, garden structures, and ornaments should be considered relative to human scale. Other important relative proportions include the size of the house, yard, and the area to be planted. Proportion in landscape design usually relates to people and their activities. For example a three-foot pool would be lost in a large open lawn but would fit beautifully into a small private area. And of course, a colossal fountain would dominate a private garden but could enhance a large city plaza.
1.2.1.2 Balance and Order
Balance is the concept of equal visual attraction and weight, usually around a real or imaginary central axis. Form, color, size, and texture all affect balance. Balance can be symmetrical, asymmetrical, or perspective. In formal balance (symmetrical), the mass or weight or numbers of objects on either side of a central axis should be exactly the same. Plants are frequently clipped, lines tend to be straight, and edges are clearly defined. For asymmetrical balance, plants should be irregularly placed on either side of an imaginary axis so that the mass or weight on either side of the axis appears to be balanced. Curved lines, obscure and merging edges and natural contours identify asymmetry in the garden. Perspective balance is concerned with the balance of the foreground, mid-ground, and background. When looking at a composition, the objects in front usually have greater visual weight because they are closer to the viewer. This can be balanced, if desired, by using larger objects, brighter colors, or coarse texture in the background. In most cases, either the foreground or background should be 9 Landscaping dominant. Order generally refers to the spatial layout or organization of the design and is most often achieved through balance. Order can also be achieved by massing features or elements into distinct groups and arranging them around a central point.
1.2.1.3 Repetition
Repetition refers to the repeated use of features like plants with identical shape, line, form, texture and/or color. Too much repetition creates monotony but when used effectively can lead to rhythm, focalization or emphasis. Unity can be achieved better by no other means than repetition. Repetition can be made more interesting by using alternation, which is a minor change in the sequence on a regular basis. An example might be a row of vase-shaped plants and pyramidal plants in an ordered sequence.
1.2.1.4 Simplicity
Simplicity goes hand-in-hand with repetition and can be achieved by elimination of unnecessary detail. Too much variety or detail creates confusion of perception. Simplicity is the reduction of a design to its simplest, functional form, which avoids unnecessary cost and maintenance.
1.2.1.5 Unity
Unity means that all parts of the composition or landscape go together; they fit. A natural feeling evolves when each activity area belongs to and blends with the entire landscape. Everything selected for a landscape must complement the central scheme and must, above all, serve some functional purpose. The simplest way to create unity is through the use of a design theme or a design style. Design themes and styles have a well-defined set of features that have maintained their popularity over time because they are visually pleasing to many.
1.2.1.6 Transition
Transition is gradual change. Transition can be obtained by the arrangement of objects with varying textures, forms, or sizes in a logical sequential order. For example, coarse to medium to fine textures, round to oval to linear structural forms, or cylindrical to globular to prostrate plants. Transition from shorter to taller plants and from fine to coarse textures would unframed the scene and makes it appear closer, like a painting on a wall. Generally, transition assists in the gradual movement of a viewer’s eye to the design and within it.
1.2.1.7 Rhythm
Rhythm is achieved when the elements of a design create a feeling of motion which leads the viewer’s eye through or even beyond the designed area. Tools like color schemes, line and form can be repeated to attain rhythm in landscape design. Rhythm reduces confusion in the design. Rhythm is expressed through the placement of plants, park furniture, etc., either individually or as group. For example, several benches could be placed at regular indentations along a shrub border. If every other bench was replaced with an attractive piece of sculpture, rhythm would be created that would relieve any monotony from the overuse of one landscape component. 10 Landscaping: Principles, Elements and Adornments
Fig. 1: Repetitious use of sculpture in landscape reduces monotony and results in the establishment of rhythm.
1.2.1.8 Focalization
Focalization involves the leading of visual observation toward a feature by placement of this feature at the vanishing point between radial or approaching lines. Generally, weaker or flowing lines of focalization are desirable in the residential landscape. Focalization can be adjusted by plant materials along the lines to create symmetrical or asymmetrical focalization. Asymmetrical focalization is indirect while symmetrical focalization is more direct, creating stronger focalization. Since focalization can be used to direct attention to a point, traffic in an area is usually directed to that point. Therefore, focalization could be used to direct traffic in a garden area. 1.2.2 Elements
Simplicity is the essence of design. How a designer creatively combines plant material and other design components into a simple, unified scheme is always an exciting challenge.
In the landscape palette, the designer is dealing with living plants that are subject to a myriad of weather conditions, different soil types, insect and disease problems, and a host of other environmental and physical circumstances. The landscape artist must deal with plants that celebrate the seasons with the unfurling of leaves in spring, the aroma and visual delight of Fig. 2: Simplicity is the essence of design ephemeral flowers, and the bareness of branches in winter. Change in the landscape is never constant as the seasons come and go. How the designer 11 Landscaping successfully combines plants and other material components in the Landscape Planting Plan involves paying careful attention to detail, a thorough knowledge of practical horticulture, and a good understanding of the basic principles and elements of design. The designer faces the challenge of creating a plan that is pleasing to the senses and that visually, functionally and aesthetically improves the appearance of the landscape at an affordable cost.
The elements of landscape design are as under:
1.2.2.1 Line
Lines are a powerful tool for the designer because they can be used to create an infinite variety of shapes and forms, and they control movement of the eye and the body. Landscape designers use lines to create patterns, develop spaces, create forms, control movement, establish dominance, and create a cohesive theme in a landscape. In curvilinear design, lines should be dramatic, done with a sense of flamboyancy and be very expressive in their shape. Curvilinear lines that have weak, scallopy edges will not be visually interesting or pleasing to the eye. Curvilinear, meandering lines suggest a naturalistic look that invites the user to casually stroll through and experience the landscape.
On the other hand, linear lines such as those found in a straight hedge or the edges of paving materials suggest quick, direct movement. Angled lines can create opportunities for creating the “bones or the framework of the landscape”. Lines that interconnect at right angles create an opportunity for reflection, stopping or sitting. Through skillful use of lines in the landscape, the designer is able to direct the attention of the viewer to a focal point.
1.2.2.2 Focal Point or Emphasis
Through the use of emphasis, eye movement is directed towards a center of interest that takes a position of prominence in the landscape. This could be a single tree, a beautifully designed water feature, a piece of sculpture, or a collection of ericaceous plants that automatically draw the eye to this point of interest. Open lawn areas, paths and strategically placed plants can lead the eye to the principal feature without distraction. Plantings should be placed to easily lead the eye to this center of heightened interest.
Fig. 3: Sculpture / maze garden in Japan. Elevated pieces of sculpture create emphasis in the landscape. 12 Secondary features of landscape interest can also be created. In this case, while Landscaping: Principles, these components are beneficial in contributing to the unity of the site and tying Elements and Adornments the total composition of the site together, they have considerably less overall impact than the focal point.
1.2.2.3 Form
Form relates to the natural shape of the plant. . Form is found in both hardscape and plants, and it is typically the dominant visual element that spatially organizes the landscape and often determines the style of the garden. The form of structures, plant beds, and garden ornaments also determines the overall form theme of the garden. For example, a plant that is very fastigiate or upright in its habit of growth is said to have a vertical or aspiring form. Ginkgo biloba “Princeton Sentry”- Princeton Sentry Ginkgo- is a good example of this form.
Fig. 4 : Form refers to the shape and structure of a plant or mass of plants.
Other plants that are spreading in their habit of growth are said to have a horizontal or spreading form. A shrub example of this form is Taxus x media “Hillii”-Hill’s Yew- and a tree example is Quercus palustris- Pin Oak. The Hill’s Yew could be effectively used as a hedge to provide special definition between two properties. When horizontal forms are placed together as is the case in the hedge, the individual vertical forms take on a horizontal profile.
Weeping, drooping of pendulous forms can also be used to create softer lines or as interesting accents in the garden. Fagus sylvatica “Purple Fountain” – Purple fountain Beech- is an excellent example of this form.
1.2.2.4 Texture
Texture refers to how coarse or fine the surface of the plant or hardscape material feels or looks. Texture is used to provide variety, interest, and contrast. The plant’s foliage, flowers, bark, and overall branching pattern all have texture. The size and shape of the leaves often determines the perceived texture of the plant. A plant can generally be described as having a coarse, medium, or fine texture.
Fig. 5: The texture of plants differs as the relationships between the leaves, the twigs and the branches differ. 13 Landscaping When using ornamental grasses for example, a gradation of textures from fine to medium to coarse could be as follows:
Texture in the landscape depends upon the distance from which the plant is viewed by the observer. In distant views, the overall mass of the plant is the dominating feature and the fineness or softness of a leaf or branching pattern is lost.
Fig. 6: Fagus grandifolia (American Beech) smooth bark texture.
In terms of the overall planting plan, texture must balance in relationship to the axis. Weight on one side should equal the mass on the other side of the axis. For example, much fine texture- as the case would be in using Buxus- is required to balance relatively little coarse texture, as the case would be in the use of Viburnum rhytidophyllum, the Leather leaf Viburnum. Intermediate plants are recommended to provide the necessary transition from one textural extreme to the other.
1.2.2.5 Colour
Color in plant material and hardscape adds interest and variety to the landscape. Color is the most conspicuous element in the landscape and is usually the focus of most homeowners; however, it is also the most temporary element, usually lasting only a few weeks a year for individual plants. The use of color is guided by color theory (use of the color wheel) to create color schemes. A simple description of the color wheel includes the three primary colors of red, blue, and yellow; the three secondary colors (a mix of two primaries) of green, orange, and violet; and six tertiary colors (a mix of one adjacent primary and secondary color), such as red-orange.
Color theory explains the relationship of colors to each other and how they should be used in a composition. The basic color schemes are monochromatic, analogous, 14 and complementary. Colour theory is a very complex and very personal matter Landscaping: Principles, that expresses individual taste and feelings. Elements and Adornments
Fig. 7: A color wheel can be used to explain color variations.
Warm colours such as reds, oranges and yellows tend to advance towards to viewer while blues, violets and greens tend to recede into the landscape. Warm colours read well and affect the eye more quickly than do cool colours. When using warm colours, they should be used in sequence which must be smooth and gradual. For example, red to scarlet to orange scarlet to orange to bronze to orange yellow to yellow to pale yellow to cream to white. Consideration of the use of colour in plantings requires a thorough, practical understanding of the personality of the plants. To vigorously use colour and effective colour combinations requires a thorough knowledge of plants, their colours and seasonal changes with detail of twig, leaf, flower and fruit as well as principles of colour.
1.2.2.6 Variety
Variety is the spice of life. In terms of landscape, it is often important to remember that a variety of lines, forms, textures and colours is required in order to achieve an interesting landscape. Without variety in both the use of ‘hard’ and ‘soft’ landscape materials, this can lead to unfavorable results.
1.2.2.7 Grouping
Much greater appeal is achieved when odd numbers of plants are used in the landscape. Groupings of three, five, seven, nine plants etc., will create a strong feeling of mass and a bold landscape statement. Plants should be irregularly spaced and every effort should be made to avoid placement of plants in an equilateral triangle. When grouping, a designer usually starts with a specimen that establishes the scale of the landscape. Around it are grouped slightly less important plants which complement the specimen in colour, texture and habit of growth. Planting one of this and one of that will create a spotty disjointed feeling.
15 Landscaping 1.2.2.8 Mass
Made up of plants that cannot be seen in their entirety from any one vantage point. Seasonal stability and variety in plant mass is accomplished through a mix of evergreens and deciduous plants. Only rarely should a design consist exclusively of evergreens or deciduous material instead of a mixture of both.
To create a harmonious effect in any group, a designer should strive to properly fit together plant forms, textures and colours into a harmonious whole or mass. Size of any mass or composition depends upon its location in relationship to other factors such as the need for screening, proximity to other groups, etc. Mass can be any size, but smaller masses or clumps are not normally as effective as larger, bolder mass plantings.
1.2.2.9 Scale
Good proportion and scale have no hard and fast rules. Generally speaking, it is a matter of “does it look right?” Scale usually bears reference to the size of a thing or object that appears to have a pleasing relationship to other things or to the design as a whole. It essentially relates to some finite measure of universal application or a standard of known dimension.
1.2.2.10 Sequence
The effective use of sequence is oftentimes employed to create visual movement in the landscape. It is an important consideration to take into account in the development of the overall planting pattern. For example, sequence could be an orderly natural combination of plant material. In this case, low objects would appear in the foreground, intermediate objects in the middle ground, and tall objects in the background.
Fig. 8: Shalimar Bagh, Kashmir (India)
While it is useful to know the elements and principles of design, it is sometimes difficult to understand how to apply them to your ideas for your yard. Each site presents challenges and opportunities for individual design and expression and requires unique application of the elements and principles. Studying how the elements and principles have been applied in an existing design that appeals to you is a good place to start. The best way to create a good design is to borrow ideas from designs that you find attractive and adapt them to your particular site conditions.
16 How effectively the designer addresses people’s needs and the functional Landscaping: Principles, requirements of the site, considers ongoing maintenance requirements and the Elements and Adornments selection of appropriate plants, efficiency and economics will all combine to measure the aesthetic success of the project. All of the above must be carefully woven together to create an outdoor room that is truly pleasurable and enjoyable on a year round basis. Celebrate the seasons in style. Start the most fascinating of the fine arts by developing a garden that takes into account the above principles and elements of design.
Check Your Progress Exercise 1 Note : a) Space is given below for answers. b) Compare your answer with that given at the end of the unit. 1) Name various elements of landscaping...... 2) Define scale and balance...... 1.2.3 Various Garden Features
1.2.3.1 Garden Walls or Fencing and Entrance or Gate
Construction of walls is though quite expensive but provides a sense of permanence and excellent boundaries for protection against human interference and animal menace, and offers considerable scope for vertical gardening. Walls are made of stones, bricks or concrete. The height and aspect (design and usefulness) as to what is to be grown on or against the wall determine the purpose for which these are erected. It may be 1.0 to 5.0 metre in height but the low ones are to be fixed with some grills so that the garden becomes secured but not obscured from outside. While choosing the plants, the colour of the foliage and flowers should be in harmony to the colour of the walls. Brick walls harmonize well with whites, greens, dark reds, blues and purples; grey and pale walls are best against yellows, pinks, reds and blues; and dark and gloomy walls may be lightened with golden, silver or variegated ivies but one should be careful as its aerial roots loosen the mortar.
Fence is the instant physical boundary of a garden or a divider of one part of the garden from the other, though it may be erected even as a permanent feature. 17 Landscaping Fences are available in a wide range of heights and styles. Woods, bamboos, angle irons, cemented poles, wire, wire nettings, chain-link fences, etc. are used for making the fences. Angle irons, wooden or cemented poles are embedded up to a depth of 45-60 cm in the soil firmly with brick pieces or with cement and concrete. The normal distance between two poles is around 3 metres and usual height of such poles is 1.8 metres having vertical holes or rings or hooks at an interval of 30 cm, the basal one being at 22.5 cm only. At every corner, just to give strong support to the pole or angle iron, two more poles are embedded in the soil in a slanting position to give support to the real corner pole so that it may not bend due to stretching force of the wire. Simple wire fencing is quite insecure, hence only barbed wire fencing is recommended. The wires are passed through the hooks or rings of the poles and tightened securely. Six tire fencing keeps the garden quite secure. Wire netting fence though is cheaper than chain-link fence but is not durable. Iron grills in various designs may also be used as fence but is cost prohibitive.
Main entrance in the garden should have a marvelous moon gate. Doors and gates have different functions and a different decorative appeal, therefore, these should be constructed in a way which may suggest that it’s possible to explore more of the garden. It should be ideally decorative to give an illusion that garden extends beyond its real limits. Front gates welcome visitors hence these should be generally lower and more screen-like in appearance while side and rear ones as serve quite the opposite purpose and protect from intruders hence should be higher and solid. Gates also break monotony of a wall.
1.2.3.2 Dry Wall
The banks of the sloping ground formed out of necessity in a garden which becomes an untidy place of grass slopes where frequent trimming is a cumbersome job or where shrubs are planted or covered with ground covers, ivies or periwinkle to hide the place, there is still a better solution of converting it into a wall garden which will provide colour for most part of the year. The dry wall consists of roughly trimmed rectangular stones with one flat surface, preferably sandstone or limestone of any reasonable size but from 5 to 20 cm in thickness. Stones are always better than bricks for natural effects and also as they provide moister and cooler root-beds for wall plants. Stones are laid on a firm foundation, inclined slightly backwards so that their back is a bit lower than the front to collect the rain water there for nourishing the roots, with flat surface up in layers in a manner that the centre of the stones of the upper layer lies on the 2.5-7.5 cm crevices left in between two-stones laid immediately below it so that the wall becomes firm and secure. The wall is not constructed exactly vertical but a frontal slope of 6:1 is given and the top of the wall is kept flat so that rain water may reach directly to the roots. The back of the wall should touch the earth. For binding the stones no cement is used, however, a little mud can be used to level the surface where necessary. The dry walls may be independent, visible from all the sides, and may be constructed at a convenient place quite independent from slopes, may be vertical against a vertical surface close to the wall but sloping outward, and semi-vertical or sloppy against slopes for joining two terraces situated at two different levels as on the hills which also slopes outward. Vertically the soil (garden loam, well rotten farmyard manure and leaf mould) should firmly be pushed through the crevices without leaving any air pocket in a way that it touches the slope of the earth supporting the wall. The sowing of seeds along with the 18 moss inserted into the crevices or planting of Achimenes, Aeschynanthus, Alyssum, Landscaping: Principles, Antirrhinum, Bergenia, Campanula, Conophytum, Cotyledon, Crassula, Elements and Adornments Dianthus, Echeveria, Globba, Hypericum, Oxalis, Phlox, Primula, Sedum, Sempervivum, Senecio, Sternbergia, Tillandsia, Tradescantia, Trillium, Tropaeolum, Vitadenia, etc. may be done in September-October in the plains and in February-March in the temperate areas.
1.2.3.3 Paved garden
Paving means covering a surface with stone, brick, concrete or other hard materials in order to make it suitable for walking or movement (path, road, carriageway, or runway for aircraft). Pavement (side-walk) means a paved path for pedestrians alongside a street or road. Pavilion is an outdoor structure as summer house or any other ornamental building in a garden. Patio is a roofless inner courtyard typical of a Spanish-style house or a paved area adjoining a house for outdoor dining and recreation. Paving stone means a large, flat rectangular slab, usually made from concrete or stone, used in making a paved surface. The paved garden consists of a path, or any area of whatever size and shape covered with crazy paving or flagstones (slabs of concrete, stones or fine- textured rock that can be split into slabs suitable for use in paving or for making floors), and in the crevices planted with creepers, dwarf rock plants and certain other dwarf ornamentals that are tolerable to more wear and tear, though paved gardens are not used very often. Paved garden complements the surrounding if created in connection with the bog and water garden or rock garden. The site where pave garden is to be constructed should be well drained. The foundation is laid as for any ordinary pathway, over which some 10-15 cm thick layer of good sandy-loam soil is spread and then on this flagstones (to avoid patchy appearance, the majority of them being not less than 25 cm in diameter though for squares, oval and circular spaces, the flagstones may be of any size or shape but not too regular) or rectangular slabs, especially for paths, are laid in an irregular pattern leaving 2-5 cm spaces between the stones or slabs for filling with good loamy soil for planting the suitable ornamentals in small groups or in isolated tufts. Crazy paving is pavement of ‘irregularly shaped pieces of paving stone fitted together’, especially in paths of informal gardens but it should be well and evenly laid to make the walking trouble-free and pleasant. The plants suitable for paved gardens are Achillea tomentosa, Alyssum montanum, Arenaria balearica, Campanula garganica, Catharanthus roseus, Corydalis lutea, Dianthus deltoides, Globularia cordifolia, Gypsophila repens, Linaria repens, Mentha spp., Mimulus radicans, Oxalis corniculata, Portulaca (perennial), Saponaria ocymoides, Sedum album, Sempervivum montanum, Setcreasia pallida, Trifolium spp., Verbena erinoides, Viola cornuta, Zebrina pendula, Zinnia linearis, etc.
1.2.3.4 Terrace or Terrace Gardening and Roof Gardening Terrace garden is a common feature in the English or Japanese gardens as in those countries large piece of land at one plane may be uncommon so land undulation is tamed in different terraces through erecting dry walls, each terrace having the even topography for cultivation. Terrace is a flat cum narrow strip of land (bed for cultivation) created from naturally sloping ground and bounded by a vertical or steep slope in the form of retaining wall built usually with local stones normally without cement; otherwise the land in its natural form would be too steep for cultivation. When the terraces are used for gardening, this is known as terrace gardening. The usual method of cultivation of food grains on the 19 Landscaping hills of this country, especially Jammu & Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Meghalaya, Arunanchal Pradesh, Nagaland, Sikkim, largest part of Assam and Tripura, Manipur, Mizoram, in a part of Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Maharashtra and Kerala, in a small part of Orissa, adjoining part of West Bengal, viz., Darjeeling, etc. is being done only on the terraces as these parts of the country do not have even terrains. Well-proportioned terracing adds more to the architectural interest, breaks the monotony and brings novelty into the garden on sloping sites. But in the plains of India, such terraces may be quite uncommon, hence, its creation would be a bit expensive, as for making this, land will have to be elevated for at least 45 cm from rest of the garden, and if it is made in front of the house it should have a slope of 1:60 towards the house for good drainage and to prevent the running off the flowing water from the house or rain water from the roof to the terrace. A terrace in the house premises is, in fact, an outdoor drawing room, therefore, it should be based on well established lawn bordered with annual flower beds or evergreen edges, and an umbrella-type tree in the centre or elsewhere of a lawn and to the opposite side in the paved terraces a small lily pool protected from outside entry through strong grills where during leisure or in the mornings and evenings the family members can gather for pleasure and enjoyment and for tea parties even with the neighbours and guests. At a suitable corner, the birdbath, sundial or any other stone sculpture may be created, commensurate to the size and shape of the house as well as of the terrace. The terrace in the house premises may also be in the form of paved patios, planted with patches of lawn in between pavings and putting potted specimen plants along the sides. In the garden, it may be constructed in a corner of the hill side view, if any, or on the sides of a hill if it is hilly terrain. Patios and courtyard gardens or the roof gardens, are loosely termed as terraces but in reality the terraces are a series of elevated beds (a terrace is an elevated bed) separated by retaining walls so that the sloppiness of the land is vanished and the land becomes quite even for cultivation. It is a misconception terming a roof garden as a terrace garden. On the hills, the garden made of terraces are visible from the paths but more elegantly from the central place of the lowest terrace or from the centre of the garden where some special feature of accent, especially fountain has been created.
Houses in the cities with a compound and lawn are vanishing and its place is being taken by skyscrapers where scope for conventional gardening is diminished. However, only alternatives left with such dwellings are roof, balcony and indoor gardening. Again, here roof gardening becomes a problem as only the top floor resident may have access to the roof, others will have to depend only on indoor and balcony gardening. However, roof garden also provides the same enjoyment as to those of city parks and gardens, except that city gardens are large and even with flower beds and trees while there is no scope for such things on the roof but flower beds can be substituted with tray, trough or box gardening and the tall trees with small shrubs. In exceptional cases and also due to strong intuitional urge, the true flower beds can also be prepared by placing the soil on moisture- proof flooring between the parapet and a wall built on the inner side but the beds directly on the roof is not preferred as in the long run the roof is damaged. However, the good quality polythene sheets with sealed joints will also serve the purpose on which the clayey loam soil at least 40 cm in depth is evenly spread for lawn planting. Moreover, roof gardens are special in the sense that all around other roof gardens as well as the gardening on the ground is also visible from the roof, vis-à-vis, it makes a good sky line. Many private houses have such fancies in almost all the cities, some even with lawn and pools as to that of Dr. P. Das at 20 State Housing Board Colony, Baramunda, Bhubaneswar (Orissa). For roof Landscaping: Principles, gardening, at the time of house construction itself the roof should be made Elements and Adornments moisture proof to avoid seepage, and should be strong enough to support the weight of soil, planted pots, tubs and other containers and also there should be arrangement for proper drainage for draining off rain and excess irrigation water. The roof garden should also have a focal point in the form of a most beautiful shrub such as Bauhinia galpinii, a highly floriferous bougainvillea var. Chitra in globular form, a climber like Holmskioldia sanguinea, Passiflora spp., Pyrostegia ignea, Thunbergia mysorensis or Wisteria sinensis in the form of verticals, one or two vertical gardens, a few bonsai specimens, a pool, a rockery or a lawn, etc. Display of a few hanging baskets with strawberries, Pilea muscosa, a few herbs, kalanchoe, freesia, etc. will complement the beauty to such gardens. An extra feature of hanging basket as accent may also be created on the roof against the backdrop of a white, light yellow or lightest pink tall building close to the house so that the feature may look more beautiful as against the backdrop of sky or this feature may be created just close the entry point of the roof. For this purpose, two strong and cylindrical steel poles having a net open length of 3 metres and connected with each other with the same strength of cylindrical pole, may be erected on the two side walls on which baskets should be hanged in a harmonious way at different heights starting from the bottom to the top of the pole. Roof gardens can accommodate all sorts of those ornamentals which can be grown outside except the full grown tall shrubs and trees.
1.2.3.5 Hanging Baskets, Verticals and Plant Containers
Hanging basket is a device under which plants are grown suspended through the rafters of the greenhouses, over the balconies, porch ways, verandas, to walls, patios, basement areas and similar places. This device can also be used by hanging the plants from the eaves all around the house, especially in multistoried buildings. This provides colour high up in the garden and softens the hard lines of a wall or building. Special artistic strong wrought iron stands or frames with provision of hooks at different levels (multi-tier system) or with strong rods moulded at different levels in a manner which can support the hanging plants in a multi-tier system, are good where space is a limiting factor. The base of such stands or frames should be heavy enough to support the total weight of many baskets. Materials required for hanging baskets are hanging baskets of various shapes and sizes with chains or rope, coconut fibre liner or sphagnum moss, soil mix or compost, slow-release fertilizer granules, water-retaining granules, trowel, watering can and planting materials. First the baskets should be lined with a thick layer of sphagnum moss or coconut fibre liner and then little filled with an ordinary potting compost (1 part good garden loam, 1 part coarse sand and 2 parts of peat, all by volume), and then addition of fertilizer, and water retaining granules as per manufacturer’s instructions, and then the plants are placed in position. Proprietary liner made up of paper pulp or coconut matting is also now available in a variety of shapes and sizes to adapt to all varieties of basket. Now more compost is pressed around each plant and down the sides of the basket for firm bedding, watered and then finally hung at an appropriate place. Just to avoid heaviness of the planted basket, a layer of broken-up expanded polystyrene should be pressed at the bottom of the container which will together provide good drainage to the plants. The plants suitable for hanging baskets are achimenes, Aeschynanthus speciosus, Aporocactus flagelliformis, Asparagus sprengeri, begonias (pendent), Campanula isophylla, Ceropegia haygarthii, C. woodii, 21 Landscaping Chlorophytum comosum, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, ferns (many), Freesia refracta, Fuchsia (semi-hanging types), ivies, lantanas (quite low growing), Kalanchoe jongsmanii, K. manginii, K. pumila, Lobelia erinus, L. tenuior, Nierembergia, orchids (all the trailing types), pelargoniums (ivy-leaves), petunias (sprawling), Pilea muscosa, Portulaca grandiflorum, Primula spp., Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri, R. rosea, Rhipsalis cereuscula, Rhoeo discolor, Saxifraga sarmentosa, Schlumbergera spp., Sedum morganianum, Senecio spp., smilax, strawberry, sweet alyssum, Tagetes patula, Tropaeolum majus, Verbena x hybrida, Viola tricolor, V. wittrockiana, etc.
The trees provide verticals in the large gardens but in small gardens it is only small trees, fences and boundary walls which work as vertical elements though fences and walls demarcate the area but never add beauty to the garden. Albeit, the beauty is enhanced when existing fences and walls are covered with beautiful shrubs and climbers, and by creating arches, pergolas and trellises. One should not confuse verticals with vertical gardens. Vertical garden means gardening at various vertical levels at one site. For example, the trees in the garden may have ornamental basket plants hanging with the branches at multi-tier system, may have orchids or other epiphytic ornamentals growing on the trunk and branches at all the levels, poles installed in vertical fashion having the top joined with strong horizontal columns as supports for hanging various baskets full of ornamentals with chains at various levels starting from little above the floor or ground up to the top of the horizontal column and this way some five times more plants shall be accommodated if the height of the pole is 2.25 metres. Also there may be plant stands prepared so to accommodate many plants vertically. In multistoreyed buildings, from the eaves of the roofs as well as from the verges of the galleries all around the building from 1st floor to last floor (it may be 5th or 10th or even 30th floor), the hanging ornamental plants in various sizes, shapes and colours will present a very special and spectacular view, when viewed from a distance at the ground floor. In polyhouses too, the multi-tier trolleys may be designed to accommodate manifold plants, especially the commercial tissue cultured ones, however, in the temperate regions also the plants may be grown in multi-tier system in the greenhouses. This technique is certainly good for saving the space as well as the labour cost to some extent.
Plant containers can be moved anywhere in the garden where the colour is wanted as these add more flexible colour in the garden. Annuals grown in pots can be used instantly wherever they are required for massing or for bordering the paths. Ordinary clay pots are still best as these easily blend up with the surroundings, have access to root aeration and drain out excess water. Besides, glazed China pots good as small ponds in courtyards, ceramic pots, terracotta pots, sea shell pots created by joining many in square or rectangular shapes near a water or rock garden, chimney posts, plastic pots and buckets, wooden trugs and other agricultural baskets, shopping baskets, trays, urns, tubs, specially designed hanging baskets, etc. can also be used as plant containers.
1.2.3.6 Arches, Pergola, Arbour and Trellises, and Screens
All these are vertical elements greatly affecting the structure and overall look of the garden. Pergolas and garden buildings give shape to the garden while arches, walkways and trellis screens are used as dividers. Arch is a curved structure looking like loosely an inverted U that forms the upper edge of an open space, 22 e.g. a window, a doorway or an entrance, and on such arches certain ornamental vines including roses are trained. It is also a linking site of one part of the garden Landscaping: Principles, to the other. An arch at the entrance of the garden governs the visitor’s initial Elements and Adornments impression of whole of the garden so it should be quite impressive. A pergola is one of the oldest architectural frame structure consisting of posts with a latticework roof normally flat, designed to support climbing plants (arbour or vine-supports) but below this the path is created for movement. In other words, the pergola is a series of arches forming a covered walk. Pergolas are first cousins to walkways. Pergola by the Egyptians was initially meant for walking from one part of the house to another or to the garden house. Pergolas make delightful eating areas as these provide shade, shelter and privacy even from overlooking neighbours. The pergola is usually flat-topped (sometimes with bulged top, as per requirement of the design) semi-open roof, supported by equi-distant posts and columns over which normally ornamental vines are trained. Pergolas are made of wooden or bamboo poles (the simplest ones) or being more elaborate with pillars of stones, bricks, steel beams (girders), angle iron or G.I. pipes with wooden or green painted iron rods as cross-members, the height being around 2.0-2.50 metres to permit ample head room for normal growth of the plants and for comfortable walking and the width ranging from 2.0-3.0 metres but not less than one metre in case of small and temporary pergolas. A height of 2.0 metres may be sufficient but when it is planted with wisterias it may require 60 cm more head room. A well laid pergola becomes even a resting place in summer in the tropical areas. Patio overheads are also a kind of pergola with one end of the overhead beams fixed to the house or garden wall and these should be high enough to clear the window and the cascading of the vigorous climbers from the beams should not block out the view of the garden. Vine-supports may be of two types: a) treillages (trellis or latticework), ornamental or otherwise, designed perpendicular to the garden in one simple geometric plane whose dimensions, lengths and heights are determined as per its use and design details, and b) pergolas or arbours which are architecturally conceived tunnels over which climbers are grown, and the difference between pergola and arbour lies only in their design details but in arbours normally tops and sides are similar though tops may sometimes be curved instead of being flat. Arbour, in fact, is the further development of even earlier used pergola. Arbour is a shaded place formed by natural or man-made intermingling of foliage and branches of trees or woody plants grown around a trellis. Trellis is a lattice (geometrically crisscrossed framework) pattern of wood, plastic or metal used to support plants having straggling growth or climbers, usually fixed to a wall. The trellises in various panel shapes and sizes (rectangular, integral windows, with pointed, concave or convex tops) can be used to screen off part of the garden, viz., vegetable garden, an eating area or restaurant or any other part of the garden. Screens are the fence structures for defining and separating various activity areas and may sometimes work as outdoor rooms. Screens provide shelter and privacy and where the boundary wall is quite low, trellises can be fixed on top of walls and fences will provide extra height over which decorative climbers may be trained. Also wherever the seats are put or constructed, privacy should be created by screening with garden boundary, a hedge or trellis at least one side of the area but for privacy from above the only alternative is to create pergola trained with climbers. Screening one part of the garden from the next, a combination of trees and plants of different heights should be used. Where in the house premises there is an open space which is limiting the impact of the garden and where plants cannot be grown, Japanese images and features by using bamboo and reed screens can be put for good effect. 23 Landscaping 1.2.3.7 Hedge and Topiary, Bonsai and Edging
Hedge is a continuous line of shrubs, trees or sometimes climbers planted with the intention of forming a boundary or division in the garden. Hedges and screens are permanent living barriers, define space and provide attractive backgrounds. At one stretch, it consists of all one type of plant. The hedges may be clipped in formal appearance or unclipped for natural look. It may be to any height between 0.3-6.0 metres. The ideal hedge should be i) capable of jostling with its neighbours, ii) should have compact growth and freely branched even from the base so that even cats and dogs may not be able to penetrate through these barriers, iii) should maintain its foliage close to ground even when it has grown to a considerable height, iv) should be amenable to fairly severe pruning and frequent clipping, and v) though not essential but preference should be for the evergreens.
Topiary is the art of clipping and training shrubs, trees and climbers to form patterns or artificial forms such as balls, cones, spirals, pyramids, squares, rectangles, various architectural shapes and various animal shapes such as peacocks, pheasants, bears, rabbits, camels, giraffes, elephants and so on, just by clipping them regularly for sustaining the shape, or by training against a wire frame and clipping to maintain the proper shape especially in case of climbers. Though this originated in Britain in formal gardens and the art of topiary was at its peak in 17th century but soon after the interest got declined. The plants for topiary should have dense and pliable growth, small leaves and should be amenable to frequent clipping. Suitable plants are Bougainvillea, Buxus sempervirens, Casuarina equisetifolia,Clerodendron inerme, Cupressus macrocarpa, C. sempervirens, Duranta plumieri, Dispirit embryopteris, Dodonea viscose, Hibiscus rosa sinensis, Lonicera nitida, Phyllanthus nivosus, Polyalthia longifolia, Putranjiva roxburghii, Quamoclit lobata, Sophora tomentosa, Taxus baccata, Vernonia elaegnaefolia, etc. Sometimes a series of topiaries at various vertical tiers are created in certain shrubs or trees such as Casuarina equisetifolia and Duranta plumieri as these are quite amenable to drastic and frequent pruning and clippings.
Bonsai is an art of growing miniaturized forms of trees and shrubs in shallow trays by rigorous pruning of roots and branches. It is an age-old Chinese art with Japanese name which means ‘tray planting’, because such plants are planted in a quite shallow containers (trays) to force the plants surviving on minimum possible nutrients and water. Wealthy Chinese some 2000 years ago (1st century A.D.) started growing dwarfs and miniatures in containers, which were respected symbols of age, and were known as ‘penjing’, meaning ‘scene in a tray’. This concept of miniature potted plants travelled to Japan when Buddhism got its way there from China in the 6th century A.D. In Japan it was regarded not only a hobby but also status symbol. In Japan this art became very popular some 300 years ago, and was exposed to the West from Japan by Commodore Mathew Peny in 1854. In 1976 at the occasion of United States Bicentennial Celebration, the Japanese people gifted some 350 years old, a magnificent bonsai collection to the States that are still for display at the National Arboretum in Washington, D.C. After 1954, bonsai became a reflection of nature and not a distortion of plants. Now days, it is the piece of a living miniature sculpture. Bonsai plants use nature as its model. The most suitable plant species for making of bonsai are: Adansonia digitata, Adenanthera pavonia, Adenium obesum, Araucaria excelsa, bamboos (Arundinaria nitida, Phyllostachys aurea, P. nigra, P. bambusoides, 24 Sasa veitchii, etc.), Bombax malabaricum, Bougainvillea, Brassaia actinophylla, Landscaping: Principles, Breynia nivosa, Brya ebunus, Butea monosperma, Callistemon lanceolatus, Elements and Adornments Casuarina equisetifolia, Chorisia speciosa, Citrus japonica (Chinese orange), Cryptomeria, Delonix regia, Erythrina cristgalli, E. parcellii, Ficus benghalensis, F. benjamina, F. infectoria, F. lutescens, F. macrophylla, F. mysorensis, F. platypoda, F. pumila, F. religiosa, Fortunella japonica, , Hamelia patens, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Hiptage madablota, Ixora stricta, Jacaranda mimosifolia, Kigelia pinnata, Malpighia coccigera, Mangifera indica, Manilkara zapota, Melia azedarach, Melia azadirachta, Michelia champaca, Milletia ovalifolia, Morus alba, Murraya exotica, Nandina domestica, Pinus densiflora, P. roxburghii, P. sylvestris, P. thunbergii, Portulacaria afra, Punica granatum, P. granatum nana, Putranjiva roxburghii, Salix babylonica, Salix Helvetica, Tamarindus indica, Thespesia populnea, Thuja orientalis, Vitis vinifera, Wisteria floribunda, W. sinensis, etc. Various styles in which bonsais are trained are: ‘upright style’ (formal upright, informal upright, broom, and windswept or winding i.e. kyokkuk style), ‘slanting style’, ‘gnarled or Hankan style’, ‘cascade (semi- or full) or kengai style’, ‘multiple trunk style’, ‘group planting (Ikadi-Buke, etc.)’, ‘plane or miniature bonsai’, and ‘clasped to stone style or rock bonsai’. Under upright style, lower third of the trunk is bare so that the beauty of the trunk, bark and root (which are thick) is clearly seen. In straight or formal upright and curved or curved or informal upright the branches alternate side by side whereas in the windswept style the windward branches are pruned or bent toward the leeward side and the tip of the trunk may leap slightly away from its base if overall direction of the trunk is upright. In case of formal upright and in windswept the trunk is straight, in case of informal upright the trunk is zigzag whereas in all the cases the trunk is tapering which looks quite conical in formal upright because branches grow alternatively to three sides in horizontal manner. Three branches constitute the second third portion of the trunk; however, the top third is also composed of three or more small branches but with dense foliage in the booth, viz., formal and informal upright styles. Conifers and imli suit this style in the oval or rectangular pot. Cascade windswept bonsai may also be made by growing the trunk and/or branches in a curved horizontal fashion, however, if it is half- way to upright and windswept it becomes slanting windswept as slanting style is nothing but here all the three types i.e. upright (straight or formal, informal or curved and windswept) are slightly slanted to one side. If all the slanted plants are further curved downward in cascade fashion, the straight slanting at 900, the curved slanting in an arching fashion then outward from the base of the pot and the windswept in a real cascade, these become partial cascade, curved cascade and full cascade in style, respectively. All these three categories of upright bonsai are when planted in groups of three or more, these become group or forest style whereas normally when the shrubs are trained to upright fashion with branches coming out of the ground, the central one being longer and the laterals gradually shorter in all the three basic types it becomes clump style. In ‘multiple trunk style’ (Ikadi-Buki style) a tree is often trained horizontally and several branches are allowed to grow vertically at intervals. In ‘broom style’, the trunk is allowed to branch out on the top only where branches grow upward to form an inverted fan-shaped broom. ‘Plane or miniature bonsais’ have 8-25 cm height but the trunk thickness is unusually more and the size of the leaves, flowers and fruits should also be small to match the size of the trunk. Kyokkuk style has a deep zigzag trunk growth under curved style and the gnarled (Hankan) style falls 25 Landscaping under windswept category where trunks are deeply zigzag in windswept fashion with formation of a few loops in the trunk. Growing of bonsais over the rocks or on stone with roots establishing in the hollows or clinging to the crevices is known as clasped to stone style. The plants grown this way present the look of age and tenacity. On the basis of all these styles it may be concluded that there are only three major categories of bonsai (straight, curved and windswept) which may provide all the styles with slight modifications in their making. These all the styles have a choice for shape of the containers because all the containers do not suit every style. Selection of the pot is dependent on the size, shape, age, leaves and the character of the trunk of the bonsai plant. Formal upright and slanting styles suit best in rectangular and thick-walled pot, cascade styles in deep and thick-walled round or square containers, group and clump plantings in thin-walled shallow pots of round or oval shape and the rock plantings look better in rectangular or oval pots with thin walls and shallow depth. Normally the length of the container should be two-thirds the height of the tree. The term edging may be used to describe the act of trimming the edges of lawns or the use of bricks or river borne similar size stones or rocks (non-living edges) or plants (living edges) to edge paths, beds and borders. It is employed in both type of gardens i.e. formal and informal, to divide beds and borders from roads, walks or paths. The live edging plants should grow very low so that it may give orderly appearance in a form of lining to please the eye. The plants used for edging should have handsome and evergreen foliage, and if possible, with long- lasting beautiful flowers, and should be amenable to neat trimming. The plants suitable for edging are Alternanthera, Aspidistra, Caladium, Coleus, Echeveria, Eupatorium, Iresine, Justicia gendarussa, Kochia, Ophiopogon intermedius variegata, Phalaris arundinacea, Pilea muscosa, Santolina chamaecyparissus, as evergreen foliage and Alyssum, Brachycome, Cineraria maritima, Gazania splendens, Gerbera, Lobelia erinus compactus, Saponaria, Torenia, Zephyranthes, etc. as flowering ones.
1.2.3.8 Borders (Annual, Herbaceous and Shrubbery or Mix)
Border is the term with a rather wide and loose application in gardens. In general, it can be referred to any bed which is prepared for some special purpose e.g. the vine border which is usually completely enclosed by concrete or brick walls, the annual border which are normally grown through seeds for flowering in the first season, the herbaceous border set apart mainly for growing of herbaceous perennials, the shrub border devoted exclusively to the growing of shrubs, and the mixed border which may include shrubs, herbaceous perennials and annuals, all together. In herbaceous border, the plants are arranged in irregular groups (not in straight lines) of a kind for harmonious or contrasting colour effect, either all flowering at one time or successively in such a way that those flowering later should grow up and screen the already flowered ones. Generally, the taller ones are planted in the back when the border is to be viewed from one side only otherwise in the centre when to be viewed from both the sides, the intermediates in the centre of either side and the smaller ones in the front for getting pleasing effect. Some taller plants may be brought forward to give an irregular contour. For succession of blooming, in between the two rows, one row of other herbaceous plants should be planted throughout the border in a harmonious way so that the beauty is enjoyed for longer period. An irregular and outwardly informal herbaceous border looks 26 more spectacular. But for good effect, the ordinary herbaceous border should be Landscaping: Principles, quite wide i.e.1.5 metres when to be viewed from one side and 2.7 metres for Elements and Adornments viewing from both the sides. Herbaceous borders may include all the herbaceous plants including herbaceous perennials (flowering and non-flowering), all the bulbous plants as well as annuals. In the front and sides of the border grass verge may be maintained while in the back a hedge in case of one-sided border may be planted for effective viewing, however, for both-side borders only the grass verge is enough all around. The taller plants for the purpose are Aster grandiflorus, Artemisia lactiflora, Delphinium (blue), Rudbeckia laciniata, Althaea rosea, Delphinium (blue), Digitalis purpurea, Solidago Canadensis, Althaea pink), Delphinium, Helianthus multiflorus, Aster, Althaea (red), Delphinium, Dahlia variabilis, etc., intermediate plants are Hemerocallis aurantiaca, Tritonia, Centaurea, Aster, Hymenocallis littoralis, Crinum, Inula, Salvia, Clarkia, Zantedeschia, Agapanthus africanus, Geranium, Chrysanthemum, Gladiolus, Watsonia, Lilium, Kniphofia uvaria, etc. and the small or dwarf ones are Lupinus, Phlox, Papaver, Oenothera, Iris germanica, I. florentina, Gladiolus, Campanula, Meconopsis, Linum, Gypsophila, Lupinus, Limonium, Malvaviscus, Scabiosa, Kochia, Acanthus, Dianthus caryophyllus, Gerbera, Anthurium, etc. In annual borders, only annual (seasonal) flowers are to be planted and in the mix borders, annuals, biennials, and herbaceous perennials, all are planted in mixed form. The term shrubbery is applied to any piece of ground devoted to cultivation of shrubs. It is a mass of many shrubs in the form of a border in the garden. Shrub borders create the outdoor living room, screen the views and serve as a backdrop for annual and perennial flowers. The gradation of planting is just the same as for herbaceous border. These can be planted either for colour display at one particular time or for successional display over a long period or throughout the year. A list of shrubs with their flowering time and span, flower colour, its nature of being deciduous or evergreen, final height, form and spread, its ornamental qualities vis-a-vis any seasonal changes in its appearance such as leaf colour when emerging and the hanging of fruits or berries after the flowering is over, and the particular point at the site of planting should be prepared for making a shrub garden or shrubbery. Certain bulbs may also be planted under or in the vicinity of the shrubs for extra pleasure. Flowering span may also be extended by planting mixed shrubbery border with annuals and other herbaceous perennials including kalanchoe (flowering types), pelargoniums, bedding plants, bulbs including Clivia, Haemanthus, Dahlia, Kniphofia, Cooperia, Zephyranthes, Zantedeschia, Fritillaria, etc. The shrubs for planting in the shrubbery border are Abelia chinensis, Adenium obesum, Allamanda cathartica, Bauhinia acuminata, B. galpinii, B. tomentosa, Bixa orellana, Bougainvillea, Brunfelsia americana, B. calycina, Caesalpinia pulcherrima, Calliandra haematocephala, Camellia japonica, Cassia alata, C. biflora, Clerodendron paniculatum, Cuphea hyssopifolia, Jatropha pandurifolia, Daeadalacanthus nervosus, Dombeya spectabilis, Duranta repens, Forsythia intermedia, Fuchsia sp., Galphimia gracilis, Gardenia jasminoides, Gustavia insignis, Hamelia patens, Hibiscus malvaviscus, H. rosa-sinensis, Holmskioldia sanguinea, Hydrangea macrophylla, Ixora arborea, I. bandhuca, I. chinensis, I. coccinea, Kopsia fruticosa, Lagerstroemia indica, Lantana camara, Malphighia coccigera, Malvaviscus arboreus, Murraya exotica, Mussaenda erythrophylla, M. frondosa, M. lutea, M. philippica, Nerium indicum, Nyctanthes arbortristis, Parkinsonia aculeata, Pentas lanceolata, Plumbago auriculata, Poinsettia pulcherrima, Oncoba spinosa, Rhododendron azalea, Sambucus nigra, Tabernaemontana divaricata, Tecoma gaudichaudi, Thevetia peruviana, Woodfordia floribunda, etc. 27 Landscaping 1.2.3.9 Trees, Shrubs and Climbers
A tree may be defined as any woody plant growing more than five metres in height with distinct trunk or main stem, where branching occurs after a certain height, and mostly making canopy at the top. This expression is used in distinction to shrub or bush which has no distinct main trunk and which branches at the ground level. Trees give a sense of permanence and maturity to a garden, create a strong visual impact, can define or enclose space and emphasize a path, and link the garden with the adjoining outside landscape. Trees give height, structure and the living sculptural focal points to a design. These are grown for providing shade on roads or at a secluded place, for the beauty of their flowers, foliage, shape, bark, decorative fruits sometimes edible, and often for their timbers. Some unusual trees are Adansonia digitata, Couroupita guianensis, Kigelia pinnata, Parmentiera cerifera, Ravenala madagascariensis, etc. Other ornamental trees are: i) foliage trees such as Abies spectabilis, Adenanthera pavonia, Ailanthus excelsa, Albizzia lebbek, Alstonia scholaris, Anthocephalus cadamba, Araucaria cookii, Artocarpus incisa, Azadirachta indica, Brassaia actinophylla, Caesalpinia coriaria, Casuarina equisetifolia, Cedrus deodara, Dalbergia sissoo, Dillenia indica, Diospyrus embryopteris, Ficus benghalensis, F. benjamina, F. elastica, F. infectoria, F. krishnae, F. lyrata, F. mysorensis, F. nitida, F. parcellii, F. religiosa, F. retusa, F. roxburghii, Grevillea robusta, Heterophragma adenophyllum, Inga dulcis, Madhuca latifolia, Mimusops elengi, Platanus orientalis, Podicarpus chinensis, Polyalthia longifolia, Pongamia glabra, Putranjiva roxburghii, Salix babylonica, S. pendula, Samanea saman, Schleichera trijuga, Sterculia alaata, Swietenia mahagoni, Terminalia arjuna, T. catappa, Thuja occidentalis, etc., and ii) flowering trees such as Acacia longifolia, A. pyracantha, A. dealbata, A. decurrens, A. baileyana, A. cultiformis, Aesculus assamica, Amherstia nobilis, Barringtonia racemosa, B. speciosa, Baauhinia purpurea, Bignonia megapotamica, Brownea grandiceps, Butea monosperma, Callistemon lanceolatus, Callicarpa lanata, Cassia fistula, C. grandis, C. javanica, C. marginata, C. nodosa, C. renigera, C. siamea, C. spectabilis, Chorisia speciosa, Cochlospermum gossypium, Colvillea racemosa, Crataeva religiosa, Dillenia indica, Erythrina indica, Holarrhena antidysenterica, Ixora parviflora, Jacaranda mimosaefolia, Koelreuteria paniculata, Lagerstroemia flos-reginae, Liriodendron tulipifera, Magnolia grandiflora, Markhamia platycalyx, Mesua ferrea, Michelia champaca, Milletia ovalifolia, Millingtonia hortensis, Mitragyna parvifolia, Pachira rosea, Peltophorum ferrugineum, Plumeria spp., Poinciana regia, Pterospermum acerifolium, Rhododendron arboreum, Salmalia malabaricum, Saraca indica, Spathodea campanulata, Tabebuia spp., Tecoma argentea, Thespesia populnea, etc.
A shrub may be defined as any woody plant with no distinct main stem, generally branching from the ground level, and growing not more than five metres in height. Certain shrubs also make canopy as to those of trees, and have no branching at the base as Lagerstroemia indica, so the distinction between the two is purely artificial. In fact, shrubs are little bushy trees, less in height than a tree, and have branching stems. Though the shrubs provide height and soft frame-work in the garden, act as dividers and demarcate the garden area in the form of hedges, act as screen, work as a specimen plant, and serve as windbreaks but in a garden it is a most abused category of plants. Beautiful shrubs are Abelia grandiflora, Acalypha hispida, Adenium obesum, Allamanda cathartica, Ardisia crispa, Bauhinia acuminata, B. galpinii, Bougainvillea, Brunfelsia americana, Buddleia 28 spp., Caesalpinia pulcherrima, Calliandra houstoni, Carisa carandus, Cassia Landscaping: Principles, spp., Cestrum spp., Clerodendron fragrans, Duranta plumieri, Galphimia gracilis, Elements and Adornments Gardenia jasminoides, Gmelina asiatica, Hamelia patens, Hibiscus spp., Holmskioldia sanguinea, Ixora spp., Lawsonia inermis, Malpighia coccigera, Murraya exotica, Mussaenda philippica, Nerium odorum, Nyctanthes arbortristis, Punica granatum, Tabernaemontana divaricata, Tecoma gaudichaudi, Thevetia nereifolia, Woodfordia floribunda, etc.
A climber may be defined as any woody (perennial climbers) or herbaceous (annual climber) plant growing to any height from a few feet to a tall tree but without a strong trunk to support itself, hence, requires support for climbing. These may have special structures to climb over supports. These special organs may be tendrils, modified leaf-stalks, rootlets or hooks like thorns. There is slight difference among climbers, creepers, ramblers and stragglers, trailers, and twiners. The beauty of any garden is greatly enhanced if climbers are commonly grown on arches, pergolas, trellises, arbours, pillars or similar structures. These are also used for screening and for providing privacy to the viewers. The bare walls of buildings or boundary walls can be decorated by a colourful climber or those which have foliar beauty. Climbers are also trained up a tree, over the net-houses, lath houses and conservatories. They are most suited for roof gardens where due to paucity of space vertical growth is desirable. Beautiful climbers for i) shady situations are money plant, Asparagus, Hedera helix, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Clerodendron splendens, Jacquemontia pentantha, Thunbergia grandiflora, etc., ii) with attractive foliage are Monstera deliciosa, Ficus repens, Asparagus, money plant, etc., iii) climbers with scented flowers are jasmines, honeysuckle, Trachelospermum jasminoides, etc., and iv) the annual climbers are Calonyction aculeatum, Clitoria ternatea, Cobaea scandens, Ipomoea purpurea, Lathyrus odoratus, Maurandia barclaiana, Pharbitis x imperialis, Quamoclit cocinea, Q. lobata, Q. pennata, Thunbergia alata, T. fragrans, Tropaeolum aduncum, T. majus, T. peregrinum, etc. Other important climbers are Adenocalymma aliceum, Allamanda cathartica var. grandiflora, Antigonon guatemalense, A. leptopus, Aristolochia elegans, A. grandiflora, Artabotrys odoratissimus, Banisteria laevifolia, Bauhinia diphylla, Beaumontia grandiflora, Bougainvillea spp., Campsis grandiflora, C. radicans, Cissus discolor, Clematis flammula, Clerodendron splendens, Clytostoma purpureum, Combretum densiflorum, Ficus repens, F. radicans, Francoa appendiculata, Gloriosa superba, Hiptage benghalensis, Jacquemontia pentantha, Jasminum auriculatum, Lonicera hildebrandiana, L. japonica, L. sempervirens, Passiflora caerulea, Pereskia bleo, Petrea volubilis, Porana paniculata, Pyrostegia ignea, Quisqualis indica, Rosa banksiae alba, R. banksiae lutea, Solanum jasminoides, Thunbergia grandiflora, T. mysorensis, Vernonia elaegnaefolia, Wisteria sinensis, etc.
1.2.3.10 Carpet or Design Bedding, Flower Beds and Sunken Garden Carpet or design bedding is referred to the use of groups of closely planted, low-growing and colourful bedding plants in various formal patterns or designs. Sometimes these are also termed as ‘geometrical bedding’ or ‘fancy bedding’. This is most expensive form of all kinds of bedding, the formation of which requires highest degree of technical skill. Only those herbaceous ornamentals are planted here which stand pinching and shearing such as Achyranthes, Aerva, Alternanthera, Coleus, Echeveria secunda (syn. Cotyledon secunda), Eupatorium, Iresine, Justicia gendarussa, Lobelia erinus compactus, Ophiopogon intermedius 29 Landscaping variegata, Phalaris arundinacea, Pilea muscosa, Sedum rupestre, Sempervivum tectorum, Torenia asiatica, Vittadenia australis, various seasonal flowers (Alyssum, Cineraria maritima, Portulaca grandiflora, etc.) and many others. The plants are multiplied mostly through cuttings indoors and through them somewhere in the garden at a suitable place the imitations of the portraits of revered personalities, the buildings, the animals, floral clocks, lettered expressions, various formal geometrical patterns and several others of similar originalities are prepared in combination with annual flowers. It is normally done at a slightly sloping place in front or near the garden building or in the lawn at a quite conspicuous place. It may also be created in the sunken areas. Here many colours are harmonized together to denote different organs of a feature. In Ramoji City Garden near Hyderabad, such things are beautifully displayed.
Flower beds are the beds of annuals or biennials or any other flowering ornamental grown as annual or biennial in the beds outside. Flower beds are most important, by and large, permanent features, especially in a formal garden and whenever the season is over these may be planted out immediately throughout the year. Nursery beds can be prepared elsewhere and in the mean time the beds may be readied for transplanting. Certain beds are meant for perennial plants like Canna, Cooperia, Hippeastrum, Kniphofia, Solidago, Tagetes (as annual as well as perennial), Zephyranthes, certain other ornamentals, grasses, reeds, ferns, etc. The beds may be of any shape such as circular, oval, kidney-shaped, square, rectangular, or any other abstract design as these are easy to maintain. Bedding plants are those annuals and biennials, or others grown like these, generally raised inside up to maturity and then planted or bedded out often in large blocks for instant or temporary display. Island beds should be a place of accent visible from all the sides. It should effectively be surrounded either by lawn or paving but in paved gardens raised island beds look more attractive. It should be geometrical, round, square or rectangular to suit formal gardens while loosely curved island beds are appropriate in the undulating ground and in informal gardens The plants for such gardens are annuals, biennials, and normally non- woody perennials but should be sturdy (not requiring stakes), dwarf and compact in habit.
A well devised sunken garden brings another dimension to the garden and adds a feeling of space. Sunken gardens are usually square or rectangular in shape and are laid below the eye level in geometrical design with formal flower beds divided by a symmetrical framework of paths and walkways, preferably with a sculptural feature such as a fountain or sundial in the centre of such gardens. Being lower than rest of the garden, normally such gardens are created at a sheltered situation but with proper drainage facilities. Various herbs, certain curious looking and unusual plants vis-à-vis specialty flowers, roses and formal bedding are most suited to such gardens.
1.2.3.11 Bog and Water Garden
Bog garden is a low-lying area of permanently wet marshy ground, often beside water in the garden, grown with special ornamental plants. In an informal design, a bog garden makes an attractive and unconventional feature. Bog garden also provides a link between aquatic garden and other parts of garden. The bog or marsh garden shall be kept in a swampy state throughout the year through the natural collection of the surface drainage and if there is a pond, though it is not a 30 necessary feature, in a garden its banks may provide opportunity for creating such a garden in a natural way but such ponds should have the control system for Landscaping: Principles, water level. Therefore, it is always better to use a waterlogged land for making a Elements and Adornments water garden. A clay soil becomes moist merely by a trickle of water but in the light soils which is well drained, slight digging becomes necessary. While making a bog garden, about 60 cm of top soil is dug up and at the base about 15-20 cm of clay soil is introduced covered with about 10-15 cm layer of rubble or stones, over which half loam and half leaf mould, peat or well decayed compost should be spread to the level of the land. If natural flow of water is not available, a trickle of water just to keep the land swampy should be artificially introduced. In case it is a large bog garden, paths of bricks or stones should be created to make full access to every part of the bog garden. Planting should be done in clumps of 3-5 in various patches, each patch having different colours but in a harmonious way. Just to make it quite natural, the patches may also have differing plant height. The plants suitable for such gardens are Acorus calamus, A. gramineus, Alisma lanceolatum, Arundinaria bamboo, Arundo donax (reed), Astilbe, Berginia ligulata, Butomus umbellatus, Calla palustris (bog arum), Caltha palustris, Colocasia esculenta, Cypripedium spectabile (orchid), Cyperus involucratus, C. longus, C. papyrus, Gentiana asclepiadea, Geum rivale, Hedychium, Hemerocallis, Hosta, Hottonia palustris, Iris aurea, I. chrysographes, I. clarkei, I. forrestii, fulva, I. ensata (syn. I. kaempferi), I. laevigata, I. monnieri, I. orientalis, I. pseudacorus, I. sibirica, I. versicolor, Juncus ensifolius, Ligularia, Leucojum aestivum, Lobelia paludosa, Lysichiton americanus, Mentha aquatica, Mimulus cardinalis, Myosotis scorpioides, Pandanus odoratissimus, P. utilis, Parnassia palustris, Polygonatum multiflorum, Polygonum amphibium, Pontederia lanceolata, Primula beesiana, P. bulleyana, P. florindae, P. japonica, P. rosea grandiflora, P. sikkimensis, P. vulgaris, Ranunculus aconitifolius, Sagittaria latifolia, S. sagittifolia, Saxifraga, Thalictrum, Trollius, Typha angustifolia, T. minima, various ferns, Veronica beccabunga, Zantedeschia aethiopica, etc.
Water garden means gardening in actual water. For water garden a low-lying piece of land in the garden should be selected. At a sunny and open situation away from overhanging trees where a natural depression already exists should be chosen for creating the water garden as this will be less expensive and without disturbing the natural landscape the water garden will be created. Also the place should be not prone to flooding so that danger of leaching down fertilizer or pesticide residues from the beds is gone as these substances will have adverse effect on the life of the water pool. But it should be constructed in harmony with its surroundings. For harmonious effects, the water gardens may be built in association with rock garden or wild garden. In informal gardens, the shape is informal while formal in formal gardens and the size depends on the availability of the space and commensurate to other features.
Why we should have water gardens? It is the soul of the garden; gives transition in the garden; is an natural element providing cooling effect and maintains humidity in the surrounding; has reflective surface where inverted images appear via-a-vis multiplies the moon and stars in the night and during day time the sparkling sunshine and dancing raindrops are mirrored; harbours live-stock in its water which provides added enjoyment especially to children; a pool has an inherent tranquillity while the flowing water in the form of rippling streams, evenly stepped or cascading waterfall or watercourse channelled over stones and leading into the pool or the spurting fountain at an elevated place or in the centre brings life to a garden and offers the extra pleasure of restful murmuring 31 Landscaping sound and mobility; and provides scope for growing many beautiful and uncommon plants which can nowhere be grown without a pool of water.
Preformed and prefabricated pools are of glass fibre, plastic, wood barrels, concrete and earthen tubs, and may be in a variety of shapes, viz., round, square, rectangular, kidney shaped, circular, etc. The ones available in the market are often contoured to provide ledges for growing marginal plants. Fibreglass pools are best with respect to life and toughness. For installing these, a suitable site is excavated 5 cm more than of the depth and dimension of such pools where these are firmly fixed. It is then filled with medium followed by planting of the aquatics. Polythene pools are also made which are easy to procure because of being cheaper and if cared well, this may also last for 8-10 years. Bath, cattle troughs and tanks all may be used for growing aquatics.
The shape and size of the formal pool depend to some extent upon the personal taste or on the size of the garden or house but the formal pool should be formal in shape, viz., circular, rectangular, square, or similar balance patterns. The formal pools are more appropriate on the roof or terraces or as a focal point at a suitable place, especially at the main axis of the paths. The edges of sunken pools should be strong and wide and made preferably of attractive paving which should link it with the garden. The raised pools may have quite wide edges to form a seat from where leisurely the views and water reflections may be enjoyed. To complement the style of the pool, a fountain or an ornamental spout commensurate to the pool and overall design of the garden can be sculptured in it. Usually the water garden is 1.0 metre deep, though width is dependent on the space available, the size of the house or garden and the personal taste and convenience. For making a pool of 6.0 x 4.5 metres (20 x 15 feet), the excavation will have to be carried out 1.0 metre deep, 8.10 metres (27 feet) in length and 6.60 metres (22 feet) in width, keeping the width of some 75 cm all around the pool for accommodating marsh plants, and some 15 cm for the walls all around the pool, vis-à-vis the wall of the same thickness inside again leaving a net width of 75 cm between the two walls for creating the pocket for marshy plants. Thus net size of the pool for deep water plants would be 6.0 x 4.5 metres excluding 75 cm width either side for marginal plants i.e. 75 + 75 cm and 15 cm for each of the four walls i.e. 15 x 4 cm. After the excavation is over of the pit of the size of 8.10 meters length x 6.60 metres width x 1.0 metre depth, the loose soil is taken out and the bottom is made thoroughly firm by pounding with a heavy beater as loose soil will shrink away and will cause concrete to crack. In the centre of the pond, a high quality plastic plug is installed fitted with high quality plastic drainage pipe which is drawn up to the main drainage channel so that while emptying the tank for cleaning there may not be any problem. The plug should be fitted in a way that after spreading of concrete and cement wash it should be slightly up.
i) For deep water: Aponogeton distachyos, Euryale ferox, Nelumbo lutea, (N. pentapetala), N. nucifera alba, N. speciosa (N. nucifera), Nuphar advena, N. advena variegatum, N. japonicum, N. luteam, N. microphyllum, Nymphoides indica, N. pleat, Nymphaea alba, N. caerulea, N. mexicana, N. pygmaea, N. tetragona, N. tuberosa, Orontium aquaticum, Victoria amazonica, V. regia, etc.
ii) For bog or moisture-loving: Anemone rivularis, Arundo donax ‘Variegata’, Astilbe chinensis, A. simplicifolia, Cardamine lyrata, Eupatorium 32 purpureum, Euphorbia palustris, Gunnera chilensis, Hemerocallis, Hosta, Iris ensata, I. sibirica, Leucojum aestivum, Ligularia clivorum, Lobelia Landscaping: Principles, cardinalis, L. fulgens, Lythrum salicaria, Osmunda regalis, Parnassia Elements and Adornments palustris, Phalaris arundinacea, Polygonum bistoria, P. campanulatum, Primula alpicola, P. denticulate, P. florindae, P. helodoxa, P. japonica, P. rosea, P. secundiflora, P. sikkimensis, Salix alba, S. babylonica, S. daphnoides, Scirpus cernuus, Scrophularia auriculata ‘Variegata’, Senecio smithii, Taxidium distichum, Thalia dealbata, Trollius x cultorum, T. europaeus, T. ledebourii, Wachendorfia thrysiflora, etc. iii) For shallow marginals (15 cm depth of water): Acorus gramineus, A. gramineus ‘Variegatus’, Alisma parviflora, Alocasia macorrhiza, Calla palustris, Caltha leptosepala, Caltha palustris, Carex elata, C. pendula, C. riparia, Colocasia esculanta, Cotula coronopifolia, Crinum americanum, Cryptocoryne lutea, C. wendtii, Cyperus adenophorus (C. diffuses, C. elegans, C. laxus), C. alterifolius, C. involucratus, C. longus, C. papyrus, Hederocleys nymphoides, Houttoynia cordata, Hymenocallis liriosme, H. littoralis, Ipomoea aquatica, Iris laevigata, I. versicolor, Juncus ensifolius, Lobelia paludosa, Lysichiton americanus, Mentha aquatica, Mimulus spp., Myosotis scorpioides, Peltandra alba, Polygonum amphibium, Sagittaria latifolia, S. sagittifolia, Typha minima, Xanthosoma lindenii, X. violaceum, Zinnia aquatica, etc. iv) For deep marginals (30 cm water depth): Acorus calamus, Alisma lanceolatum, Brasenia schreberi, Butomus umbellatus, Canna glauca, Canna glauca vars ‘Endeavour’, ‘Erebus’, ‘Ra’ and ‘Taney’, Cyperus papyrus, Hottonia palustris, Iris pseudacorus, Marsilea quadrifolia, Nelumbo lutea, N. nucifera ‘Alba Grandiflora’, ‘Alba Striata’, ‘Rosa Plena’, Phragmites australis, Pontederia cordata, P. lanceolata, Ranunculus lingua, Typha angustifolia, T. latifolia, Zantedeschia aethiopica, etc. Koi carp, common goldfish (Carassius auratus), golden orfe fish (Idus idus), veiltail goldfish (Leuciscus phoximus), frogs, newts, Ramshorn snail (Planorbis corneus), freshwater winkle (Paludina vivipara), freshwater whelk (Limnaea stagnalis), etc. may provide added pleasure in a water garden. v) For submerged oxygenators: Bacopa amplexicaulis, B. manniera, Cabomba aquatica, C. aroliniana, Callitriche autumnalis, Ceratophyllum demersum, Ceratopteris deltoides, C. pteridoides, C. thalictroides, Hydrocleys parviflora, Myriophyllum aquaticum, Potamogeton crispus, Preslia cervina, Tillaea recurva, etc. vi) For floating aquatics: Azolla caroliniana, A. filiculoides, Ceratopteris pteroides, Eichhornia azurea, E. crassipes, Hydrocharis morsus-ranae, Lemina trisulca, Limnanthemum lacunosum, Limnobium spongia, L. stoloniferum, Phyllanthus fluitans, Pistia stratiotes, Riccia fluitans, Salvinia auriculata, Stratiotes aloides, Trapa natans, Utricularia minor, U. vulgaris, Wolfffia arrhiza, etc.
Aquarium is a glass enclosure with controlled environment for growing small tropical plants along with ornamental fishes. It can be landscaped with artistically designed wood, reef stones, oyster shell, conch shell, river borne stones, lime- free coarse sand (some 8 cm in the front and 10-15 cm at the back), etc. In aquarium, like to that of a garden pool, a good water chemistry balance is maintained by correct light levels through fluorescent tubes, temperature, and 33 Landscaping organic matter. Also there should be provision for decanting filter fitted with a small electric pump. From time to time or once in a day, fish feed in right quantity should be poured in the aquarium for good health of the fishes. Plants suitable for aquariums are Alternanthera philoxeroides, Aponogeton crispus, A. madagascariensis, Baldellia ranunculoides, Cabomba caroliniana, Cryptocoryne ciliata, Echinodorus major, Hemigraphis alternata, Hygrophila difformis, H. polysperma, Ludwigia arcuata, Myriophyllum hippuroides, Potamogeton crispus, Salvinia natans, Uticularia exoleta, U. vulgaris, Vallisneria gigantea, etc.
Terrariums and bottle gardens is a part of indoor gardening in bottle or in an enclosed container made of glass or plastic for growing small plants of ornamental value. The containers may themselves be decorative. Those plants which require more humid atmosphere for their growing thrive best in terrariums. Here only those ornamentals are displayed which are non-flowering but with contrasting leaf textures and colours, require more humid conditions for their growing, and are slow in growth or of short stature. However, glass bottles with constricted neck, and tinted ones are not suitable for this purpose. The container for the terrarium should be absolutely clean. A terrarium should have a drainage material such as clay pellets, gravel or pebbles and fresh wood charcoal over which a highly porous but moisture-retentive compost is spread for planting, and where extra peat is added to keep the soil well aerated. Only young plants with just emerging roots are planted in this medium and then bare areas are covered with pebbles or moss to check the compost from drying out, lightly watered and then lid is placed. After these are established, there is scarce need of watering or no watering. The plants suitable for terrariums or bottle gardens are Acorus gramineus ‘Pusilus’, Adiantum raddianum, Asparagus densiflorus ‘Sprengeri’, Asplenium nidus, Begonia ‘Tiger Paws’, Callisia, Cissus discolor, Codiaeum, Cryptanthus acaulis, Dracaena sanderiana, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Hedera helix, Maranta leuconeura, Pepromia caperata, Pilea cadierei, Sansevieria trifasciata, Syngonium hoffmannii, Tradescanta cerinthoides etc.
Sometimes water of the pool turns green because of unicellular algal growth, though not harmful and instead act as fish food, water looks dirty. While using compost, it should properly decomposed with no fibres or any other unrotted material. However, certain oxygenators such as Anacharis, Lagarosiphon and Myriophyllum should be introduced in the pools along with small water fleas
provided no fish is there in the pond. KMnO4 @ 1 g per 2 gallons of tank water is used first by dissolving it before use. Planorbius and Paludina snails also feed on plant debris, fish excreta and algae. Certain weeds which grow in the pond should be taken out gently. Blanket weed (slimy green growth) which develops during hot and dry weather is controlled by 115 g of copper sulphate or 30 g of
KMnO4 to each 25,000 gallons of pond water, and a second application within a week if still the weed is there. This quantity is not injurious to fish in the pond or the plants. The control of insect-pests and diseases are the same as to other plants but chemicals may affect the water chemistry which may prove toxic to the livestock and also to the plants. However, hand picking is the best way to control these.
1.2.3.12 Rockery or Rock Garden
It may be a garden in itself or a part of the garden but rock gardens in real sense are those gardens where mountainous, temperate and/or alpine ornamentals, 34 similar to their natural habitats, are grown in very rocky places. In fact, in the temperate areas we have natural rocky mountains growing with such plants which Landscaping: Principles, we want to imitate elsewhere in the plains of India just to find out the suitable Elements and Adornments plants which can provide the same elegance and beauty as to that of temperate regions. Though in temperate areas it is easy to establish and maintain but in the plains it’s not an easy task because this idea itself has developed only for the temperate or alpine regions and the plants. Moreover, the weather in the temperate areas is quite congenial for growing of ornamentals as there summer is not so extreme so all those plants which can be grown during winter season in the plains can be grown on the hills during summer with perfection but summer in the plains is quite harsh where most of such plants die or require summer protection. However, with thorough studies, to some extent, such gardens may also be created in the plains. Few people describe ‘rockery’, as massing of rocks while ‘rock garden’ having a few rocks placed properly in a wide area but, in fact, there is no difference and the both are referred to one thing ‘growing of ornamentals with the rocks formed in the form of mountains’. As on the mountains, in one recourse, there are rocks and natural waterfalls, so natural water trickling through the peaks in the form of streams and accumulating in the various depressions formed naturally due to rocks at various elevations and then overflowing when completely filled, and finally falling to the rivulets or a river or a water reservoir (natural lake) look highly scenic so such scenes may also be created by combining rock garden with the water garden, while making a garden. Throughout the year, such trickles continue with more water from summer to autumn due to snow melting and rains which cause such falls running continuously though with less water during winters due to water transforming into ice because of a very low temperature. This works as rock garden as well as water garden which gives utmost enchantment. Artificially also, such marriages (rocks combining with water) are possible through which continuous trickle may be established which will keep the miniature falls running.
The idea that rock plants grow best on rocks is not correct. Rocks and stones found in the temperate or alpine areas provide shelter and coolness to the roots and in the crevices conserve moisture, which in turn is utilized by the plants. That is why in these crevices, in natural way, the plants are found growing and if the growing medium accumulates naturally on the rocks, certain plants start growing over them also but if the depth of the soil or medium is not enough on the rocks such plants dry up during summer with the drying of the medium.
Rock gardens have various features such as wall garden (dry wall), paved garden, moraine garden, scree garden and alpine garden. Dry wall and paved gardens are already described. Moraine garden means growing of ornamental plants in the beds massed with earth and rock debris (rocks, small stones and grits or sand produced by the grinding effect of the ice on the surrounding rock) carried by an advancing glacier and left at its front and side edges as it retreats. Its depth should be around 30 cm or more. In moraine garden the water is fed from below, may be in the form of running stream or it may consist of a pool so that there is continuous supply of moisture to the roots of the plants. In nature, this condition is found through melting snows from which water flows or seeps through the rocks. For proper drainage, the moraine should consist of equal parts of loam, leaf mould, sand, and stone chips, with about 1 cm layer of chips on the surface. Scree garden means growing of high altitude alpines in the sloping beds formed by accumulation of weathered rock debris, often forming a heap at the base of a cliff, hill, or mountain slope as in case of moraine, but no water is 35 Landscaping supplied beneath the surface. Only those alpines are grown which require excellent drainage. It is only necessary to make scree if we want to grow certain choice alpines which will not grow in ordinary rock garden soil. For making a scree garden, it may be constructed on a bit sloppy or flat place at the base of rock garden where there is no water supply below the surface; however, the ornamental plants survive only on the water coming from the melting snow. Usually the medium for growing such alpines consists of 10 parts of rock debris (stone clippings) to 1 part of garden loam, 1 part of peat (preferably sphagnum peat) and 1 part coarse sand in a 45-60 cm bed depth, prepared on slightly sloppy ground with a drainage outlet at the bottom. Natural moraines or screes have their characteristic vegetation which survives with a minimum amount of nourishment but usually with abundant supply of water from spring to autumn from melting snow and ice. Alpine garden is that which houses mountainous plants. Alpine is a plant which grows naturally on mountains. In gardens, the term is applied to any plant suitable for cultivation in rock gardens, thus alpines and rock plants become synonymous. Mountain plants are mostly dwarf and compact in nature and have very long roots which penetrate great distance in search of food and moisture. Mostly these thrive best where light is good and drainage is quick. These remain dormant for 8-9 months below the blanket of snow which protects them during the winter, and within 3-4 months these make crowded growth, flower and seed by pooling whole of their growth together. This environment is not easy to be provided in the man-made rock gardens. The plants suitable for the rockeries are cacti and other succulents such as Agave, Aloe, Cereu, Euphorbia milii, E. splendens, Furcraea, Gasteria, Haworthia, Kalanchoe, Mammillaria, Opuntia, Sansevieria, Sedum, Sempervivum, Stapelia, Yucca, etc., ferns such as Drynaria, Nephrodium, Nephrolepis, Polypodium, etc., flowering annuals such as Alyssum, Antirrhinum, Bellis perennis, Brachycome iberidifolia, Browallia elata, Dianthus thinness, Hymenatherum tenuifolium, Iberis amara, Mesembryanthemum criniflorum, Phlox, Salvia splendens, Verbena hybrida, Viola tricolor hortensis, Zinnia linearis, etc., herbaceous plants such as Angelonia grandiflora, Asclepias curassavica, Aster amellus, A. novae-angliae, A. novi-belgii, Cathranthus roseus, Dracaena sanderiana, Fittonia argyroneura, Impatiens holstii, I. sultanii, Pedilanthus tithymaloides variegata, Pilea muscosa, Portulaca, Sansevieria culindrica, S. zeylanica, Setcreasea, Tradescantia zebrine, Verbena erinoides, etc., bulbous such as Haemanthus, Kniphofia, Narcissus, Nerine, Oxalis, Ranunculus, Zephyranthes, etc., and shrubs such as Adenium obesum, Asystasia coromandeliana, Brya ebenus, Calliandra inaequilatera, Callistemon lanceolatus, Cassia alata, C. biflora, C. laevigata, Catesbaea spinosa, Clerodendron macrosiphon, Crossandra, Cuphea, Duranta plumieri variegata, Jatropha podagarica, Juniperus chinensis, Lantana sellowiana, Muehlenbeckia platyclada, Nolina lonfolia, Ruellia, Russelia juncea, Sanchezia nobilis variegata, Thuja, etc. The plants suitable for the hills are Achillea tomentosa, Adonis vernalis, Allium azureum, A. beesianum, A. coeruleum, A. Cyaneus, A. narcissiflorum, Androsace lanuginosa, Anemone, Aquilegia glandulosa, Azalea, Bridiaea, Bulbocodium vernum, Campanula, Chionodoxa, Colchicum autumnale, Corydalis cheilanthifolia, Cotoneaster, Cotyledon oppositifolia, Crocus, Cyclamen, Cytisus, Daphne, Dianthus alpinus, Draba, Eranthis hyemalis, Erodium, Erythronium, Euonymus, Fritillaria, Galanthus, Gentiana, Gypsophila repens, Hyacinthus azureus, Hypericum, Iris, Juniperus horizontalis, Leucojum aestivum, L. vernum, Lilium longiflorum, L. tigrinum, Linaria alpina, Linum, Meconopsis, Muscari armeniacum, M. botryoides, Narcissus bulbocodium, N. cyclamineus, N. minimus, N. triandrus, Oxalis 36 adenophylla, Papaver alpinum, Penstemon, Penstemon, Phlox ovata, Potentilla, Landscaping: Principles, Primula, Puschkinia scilloides, Rhododendron, Saxifraga, Scilla bifolia, S. Elements and Adornments peruviana, S. praecox, S. sibirica, Sedum, Sempervivum, Selaginella, Thymus, Tulipa, Vaccinium, Viola, Vittadinia australis, etc.
1.2.3.13 Bandstand, Gazebo, Gatehouse, Lath House and Thatched Huts, Conservatory and Greenhouse
Literally, the Bandstand is an outdoor platform for a band or small orchestra to perform on, especially in formal receptions and other ceremonies. In a garden, it is a circular or hexagonal structure open on all sides with a solid roof and is used as a shelter against rain and sun as is seen on the hill stations of our country, especially in English gardens. Gazebo is a small, usually open sided building, especially in the English gardens, situated at an elevated place and at a spot from where aerial view of the entire garden can be seen. A Gatehouse at the entrance of the garden is necessity so that the entry of unwanted persons may be checked. Moreover, this also gives an impression of the garden status. ‘Mandapam’, the counterpart of gatehouse is seen erected in certain famous gardens of South India, but in such structures use of cement is limited and instead wood, bricks or stones and metals such as brass and bronze are used. Lath house is normally a temporary field or garden house prepared through wooden laths, plaster, tiles or slates for use as open store house, for sheltering shade-loving or greenhouse potted plants, carrying out various garden activities such as potting, repotting, seed extraction, media preparation, preparation of the material, packing, etc. To have a secluded and peaceful resting place in the garden away from the heat, dust and hubbub of the world, special thatched huts in umbrella, hexagonal or in any other suitable shape are created. These huts are sheltered for privacy by camouflaging with beautiful ornamental climbers and shrubs, foliage plants and flowers. Conservatory, in real sense, is a glassed extension of the house, may be onto the side or in the back, for growing and displaying of ornamental plants to be viewed by the ladies of the conservative families, especially in Great Britain so that they may not be going out for recreation. Now it is referred to growing of ornamentals, especially ferns and bromeliads, and those ornamentals which prefer more humid conditions for their growing. In broader sense, it is a house for cultivation and staged display of cacti and other succulents; ferns and other foliage plants; herbaceous perennials including anthurium, carnation, euphorbias, geranium, gerbera, orchids, philodendron, etc.; certain shrubs such as aralia, dracaena, eranthemum, fuchsia, schefflera, etc.; certain bulbs such as fritillaria, hyacinths, muscari, oxalis, zantedeschia, etc.; and other potted plants; vis-à-vis a small cemented pool in the centre for generating humidity inside, for growing enchanting water plants in it and for reflecting whole scenery of the house on the water surface. Now such structures are normally round, hexagonal or square in shape, created through cement works on the ground, and through vertical poles or angle irons roofed with thatching or wiring, and all around the structure it is covered with chicken wire over which climbers are trained. It may be in the form of glasshouse also but then climbers are not trained over this. Also there should be provision of light inside the conservatory in case it is made of other materials except glasses.
Greenhouse is a glass or transparent plastic structure, often on a wooden or metal frame, for growing high value plants by providing required heat and light (intensity and duration) vis-à-vis protection from the elements. In temperate areas, 37 Landscaping glasshouses are required only during winter months when temperature goes very low and plants tend to become dormant so to create an environment for growing plants in winter, such greenhouses are erected though summers are quite congenial for growing plants outdoors without any protection. But one should be careful as weight of the snow will damage the roofed area of the polyhouses, therefore such greenhouses will be of no use there, and then only alternative left for making greenhouses in temperate areas is through glasses and not the polythene. It may be either i) conventional greenhouses, viz., ‘traditional span’, ‘Dutch light’, ‘three-quarter span’, ‘lean-to’, and ‘Mansard’ or ‘curvilinear’, or ii) specialist greenhouses, viz., ‘dome-shaped’, ‘polygonal’, ‘alpine house’, ‘conservation greenhouse’, ‘mini-greenhouse’ or ‘polytunnel’. All of these may have aluminium or timber framework, and glass walls or part-solid walls, except Dutch light greenhouses. Glasshouses, now days are quite expensive but polytunnels are much cheaper and have added benefits. Greenhouse culture leads to 10-15 times higher yield than that of outdoor cultivation, depending upon the greenhouse design, availability of environment control facilities, cropping systems, greenhouse management and crop type. A modern greenhouse has three major components – structure, covering and environment control system (temperature, light and humidity). Of various designs, gutter connected house covered with heavy-duty transparent plastic sheets having roof ventilation is most efficient for wide range of conditions. These types of greenhouses are cheaper, and most feasible, to automate the single consolidated space inside a gutter connected greenhouse than the multiple equivalent space in Quonset greenhouses. Management of materials and products into and out of the greenhouse requires less labour in a single large space than in numerous small spaces. The heating cost is less in multispan (gutter) greenhouses, because there is a less expanded area.
The height of the gutter above the ground is increasing over the years to accommodate the growing evolution of climatic control equipment and automation devices. The original gutter connected greenhouse typically has a 2.4 m gutter height, but today 4.3 m is becoming very common. Gutter may be constructed from galvanized sheet of aluminium. The distance between gutter rows depends on the greenhouse brand purchased. The distance ranges from 3.2- 12.2 m. Greenhouse with spacing between gutters of 3.7, 5.2, 6.7 and 9.1 m can be covered by film plastic sheets 4.3, 7.3, 7.6 and 11 m wide. Greenhouses are now offered that have roll up side curtains and can be installed on two or all the four walls. Greenhouses with retractable roof are becoming very popular in USA and Canada. The purpose of side curtain plus roof-ventilator system or the retractable roof with or without roll-up curtains is to replace high energy consuming ‘fan and pad cooling systems’. These passive cooling systems work well in hot or cold climates. The greenhouse frames should preferably be covered with double layering covering 0.1-0.18 mm thick UV stabilized plastic. Today, polythene film as well as rigid FRP, acrylic and polycarbonate panels are available with an antilog surfactant built into the film or panel. It is advisable to use an antilog product because in addition to water dropping, the condensation also reduces light intensity within the greenhouse.
Fresh flower crops are grown in either ground beds or raised benches in the greenhouses. Such beds are 1.1 or 1.2 m wide and 20 cm deep, but 30 cm is best for rose beds. Fresh flower beds are oriented along with the length of the greenhouse with 45 cm aisles between them. This arrangement of beds allows 38 for 67-70 per cent of floor space for growing. Soil is the natural medium for Landscaping: Principles, growing greenhouse crops, but the growth and yield are not higher for roses and Elements and Adornments gerbera. The cocopeat available in plenty in South India can be used to get manifold yield with better quality. This substrate provides better root spread with minimum resistance, sufficient porosity, maximum nutrient uptake, better drainage of excess water, vis-à-vis minimum pathogens and scarce algal growth, as the medium is quite independent of the soil. Cocopeat, a powdered coconut fibre, is decomposed for 3-4 months in a tank filled with water which takes out the excess salts from the dust, and weathers it to the extent it becomes effective for crop growing. Temperate as well as sub-tropical climates of North India face heavy chilly weather, requiring heating to sustain crop growth for flower regulation on special events like Christmas, New Year and Valentine Day. Greenhouses can be heated with the oil burners, hot water or stream and electric heaters. A central heating system can be more efficient than unit heaters. In this system, two or more large boilers are in single location from where heat is transferred in the form of hot water or steam pipe mains to growing areas. Their heat is exchanged from hot water in a pipe coil located in plant zone or through overhead pipe. Cooling in the greenhouse is very essential where outside temperature goes above 30°C. Cooling system generally consists of fan at one side and pad at the other where principle of evaporation cooling is facilitated by running water stream over pad and consequent withdrawal of air through it by fans on the opposite side. A reduction of maximum 10-15°C difference in temperature could be achieved depending upon the system and outside climate. Greenhouse should be airtight during the running of fan-pad system and care must be taken to periodically clean the pads from salts and algae. Other active way of cooling alternative is fog cooling. Control can be achieved through analog machines or by computers through aspirated chambers. Top and side ventilation also add in cooling along with maintaining relative humidity.
Certain plants are damaged due to very high light intensity during summer. Shading reduces light intensity and cools the microclimate inside the greenhouse. Shade paints (lime or Redusol or Vari clear), agro-shade nets or retractable thermal screens are generally used or operated manually or through automatic devices. Several plant species flower only when they are exposed to specific light duration, Yield and quality of flower crops could be increased with artificial lighting during night hours. Cyclic lighting is most effective. Short day conditions in greenhouses can be created with fully automatic, semi-automatic or manual ‘black out’ system using good quality black polythene sheets, especially for chrysanthemum. Fertigation varies from single broadcasting of fertilizers to use of soluble grade fertilizers over different operating systems. One of the most modern technologies is currently offered by Priva-Phillips Nutriflux or Van Vliet Midi Aqua Flexilene System. Both the systems have a nutrient recycling method translating plant demand of nutrients in relation to EC/pH of the media, temperature, RH, light intensity, crop growth, mineral deficiency, etc. Water quality is very important though often overlooked. Total salt content levels, alkalinity levels, the balance of Ca and Mg, and levels of individual ions such as boron and fluoride can all have serious bearing on crop success. The water source should be tested before a greenhouse is established. Electrical conductivity level should be 0.75-1.5 dS/m and a pH of 6-7. Automatic watering system through drips or over-head foggers are generally used depending upon the crop. A manual or semi-automatic control system is less capital intensive but requires a lot of attention and care. Now computerized control systems are available which can integrate temperature, 39 Landscaping light intensity, RH, CO2, plant moisture, nutrient requirement, and plant protection measures. There are certain unheated structures in the gardens which are used to advance or extend the growing season such as cloches used in situ over plants in the garden itself, and cold frames also used for storing ‘resting plants’ and for hardening off plants propagated in the greenhouse.
Check Your Progress Exercise 2 Note : a) Space is given below for answers. b) Compare your answer with that given at the end of the unit. 1) What is difference between hedge and an edge ? ...... 2) Define bog and sunken gardens ? ...... 1.2.4 Garden Adornments
1.2.4.1 Walks (Paths, Pavements, Steps, Stepping Stones), Drives and Roads
Walks are the paths or routes in the garden designed or set aside for the use of people on foot. Paths are the surfaced tracks those have been created for walking by the people on foot or for cycling and the approach passages to connect various elements of the garden. These help forming the framework of the garden and lead the eyes to a focal point. The width of paths may be 60 cm to 1.2 m, depending on the purpose for which these are made. However, the width of the path should be such where at least two persons can walk together. Its laying should be in agreement to the design of the garden. In small gardens, the straight paths being narrower at the end should be flanked by shrubberies or flower borders which will put an illusion of being this a large garden. In large gardens vis-à-vis in rock gardens, winding paths can be very attractive but in the gardens every curve should be planted with beautiful shrubs to hide the view beyond. In formal gardens the paths should be paved with stone slabs or cement tiles with regular shapes while in the asymmetrical designs there should be crazy paving with irregular paving stones or slabs. Always the paths should slightly be elevated so that during rains these may not be submerged and the rain water is drained off easily. Paving stones with cobbles, bricks with gravel, or concrete paving slabs are quite suitable 40 for making a path. Pavements are the paved paths for the pedestrians in the garden alongside the streets or roads. Steps are the raised surfaces for the foot, Landscaping: Principles, especially in a series going up or down or these are a flight of stairs, made of Elements and Adornments stones or similar material, for approaching the elevated or sunken spots in a garden. These provide interesting changes of levels and create very different effects, and on the sloping sites the steps become an essential part of the path. These may be straight or curved, wide or narrow, and shallow or steep. Stepping stones are the series of stones at a natural pace in a garden on which one is able to step, especially to cross mostly flowing shallow water (or sometimes even still water) where these project above the water so that while walking the foot wears may not be wet or in the lawn so that its line is not spoilt but these should be set in the grass in such a manner that these may not obstruct the mowing. Drives are the paved areas or private and otherwise roads those run in the garden between the houses or garages and the nearby streets or wide roads and have pleasant views on both the sides. These have considerable impact on the garden design. The drives may be made more attractive by growing or positioning suitable ornamentals nearby. Roads though cannot be separated from the drives are, in fact, the hard routes broad enough for driving the light and heavy vehicles in the garden.
1.2.4.2 Garden Seats and Straddle Stones
Seating is a necessity in most gardens but in a family garden there should be separate provision for parents and children. Individual seats for oldies are better suited while for ladies and children benches are more suitable. Tree seats always attract the eyes from across the garden. A tree with large trunk is most suitable for encircling with the wooden or plastic seats of white colour but where the tree is having a quite raised brick or concrete platform, below it all around, the seats should be fixed in a circle. Such seats may be constructed even with irons or stones though in winter these become quite cool. Wide weathered sleepers in informal gardens will attract children for sitting from both the sides if their positions are elevated a bit and such seats will blend completely with the surroundings. With the support of two stately and shady trees if growing together, hammock and a swing seat can be fixed for children. Sun loungers of bold colours in pairs will be quite appropriate in a garden as these can be moved around the garden easily. Any seat which is to be provided in the garden should merge with the surroundings and it should be comfortable, durable and good looking. However, the wood seats should be made from the durable timbers and painted in white for good appearance. Some natural stones as straddle stones or concrete seats should also be there in the garden, especially near the water and rock gardens or with a clipped dwarf hedge for the surround or in the undulating flower beds where people can sit by having their both the legs hanging over these. Such seats may be anything made from an old garden roller or the locally available rocks and boulders.
1.2.4.3 Ornamental Stone Basins or Tubs, Urns, Vases and/or Well
Ornamental stone basin, bowls or tubs are open bowl-shaped large container made of stones, marble stones, concrete, ceramic (a hard brittle heat resistant- material made by firing a mixture of clay and chemicals at high temperature) and terracotta (an unglazed reddish-brown hard-baked clay, often used to make pottery objects), timber woods, etc. through inside carvings in a uniform manner. Surfaces (inside and outside) are also properly smoothened, and outside surface is engraved in good looking designs. Ceramic and terracotta basins are cheaper, 41 Landscaping quite attractive and easily available in various designs. Plastic bowls can also be purchased from the market in various designs and these will be cheaper and durable. Water basins being so small that apart from capturing the essence of a Japanese garden these can add elegance to any garden. Tubs are almost the same as to stone basins but generally these are low open container, often round, and are made of metals, plastics, stones, concrete, bricks, earthen sinks and troughs (ideal for creating miniature rock garden) used for feeding the animals, China clay sinks, wooden, etc. Urns are the ornamental vases, usually with foot or pedestal. These are also made of China clay, stones, marble stones, concrete, porcelain, ceramic and terracotta, fibreglass, glasses, etc. Vases are the open containers, usually tall and rounded and are used as ornaments as well as for displaying cut flowers. These are ceramic and terracotta, asbestos, China clay, porcelain, stones, marble stones, marbles, glasses, plastic, and wooden. Basins and tubs can be made permanently in position or may be portable type. If positioned on a pillar in harmony to each other, it gives special effect. Wide paved paths can also be decorated with ornamental tubs or vases on both the sides or only two on both the sides in the end for giving an illusion that path is quite long, however, the path will have to be narrowed down a little towards the end. The basins kept in front will shorten the path. However, their placing at the gate or close to entrance-staircase will also enhance the beauty. These all may be displayed as ornaments in their own right in the garden. It is not necessary to fill them with plants, they look beautiful even without plants. Metallic urns with outside carvings will enhance beauty if kept on the terrace, roof garden, courtyard, veranda, near the staircase, on the doorsteps, or indoors. Beautiful potted ornamentals grown in earthen pots may be kept in such containers to superimpose the beauty of plants as well as of the basins, tubs, urns or vases. In informal gardens, a well dug and well built with bricks and concrete ‘country well’ with raised platform having an earthen pitcher and stout rope will also leave a good impact in the garden apart from providing pure drinking water or irrigation water. Its creation in the back of the rock garden, slightly away from the water garden, near a shelter, in the back of the garden, in a sunken garden or at the outskirt of the tea garden in the Japanese garden will be quite enchanting and useful.
1.2.4.4 Ornamental Rocks or Stones
As per a legend, ‘rock is root of the cloud’. In a garden, rocks and stones play a very important role. Rocks and stones constitute the essential feature of a Japanese garden. Rock gardens are named so only because of the extensive use of the rocks. In the water gardens also, these make a beautiful element, especially when the water is clear and shallow. In the streams or flowing water, their visibility creates a special amusement, especially for the children. River-borne stones look so beautiful that a tradition, since the time immemorial, has descended in the country where Hindus, Janis and Buddhists consider them sacred. Even otherwise, people bring them home and the living rooms are decorated with a few pieces of these stones. Stones, rocks and reef stones are also used in the aquarium. Even in the knot gardens, the coloured stones or gravels are used among the hedges. In the garden where fountain is, below this river-borne stones are spread for good effect. Paths are also decorated by various shape and size of river-borne stones. Weathered natural rocks of different shapes and sizes are available in the mountainous rivers which if introduced in the garden give a sculptured element. These are also used as straddle stones for sitting.
42 1.2.4.5 Ornamental Pillars or Towers, Statues, and Bird Baths & Bird Landscaping: Principles, Elements and Adornments Houses
Ornamental pillars or towers are the vertical columns used for support or decoration in the garden and these provide permanent support for climbing plants without going for a trellis or a pergola. These are most suitable in a formal garden where these provide formal effect along the back of a border or to flank a path by erecting pillars in a single row to one side of the path. These pillars are made of bricks, concrete or reconstituted stone and are set firmly with concrete in the ground. Over such pillars climbers are trained with the help of plastic nets or plastic-covered large-mesh netting. The pillars planted with strong growing climbers such as Passiflora and Wisteria present a strong vertical element to a mixed or herbaceous border. Pillars may also be used as an accent at a position where the garden level changes or at the corner of a border. Statue is the three- dimensional image of a human being or an animal that is sculptured, modelled, cast, or carved out of stones, especially marbles, or bronze, or even of concrete. A formal geometrical hedge combined with an elegant statue alongside a large water garden complements the scenery. A statue erected near a building among the straight or columnar group planting of trees or shrubs such as Cupressus, Roystonea, Thuja, Thujopsis, etc. provides good impact. A stream may also be tamed in a way that water may fall through the mouth of the statue which will also enhance the beauty. A marble stone statue at the background of a large evergreen climber inside the gate will act as a focal point in the garden. Bird baths are normally constructed at a quiet corner of the garden in informal designs but somewhere in the centre of the axis in the formal garden, especially as focal point or near the edges of the lawn but not in the centre or close to the border. Putting suitable food for the birds as well as water for drinking and bathing will ensure regular visits of the birds. The bird baths are made of stones or concrete in the shape of a vase but with large rectangular or circular bottom set in the ground with concrete, and the top being quite wide, shallow and circular accommodating water as well as food for the birds. The height of the bird bath should be more than 2.25 metres so that cats are not able to jump up on to it. Dovecote, bird tables and other bird houses are structures set into the walls or on tall poles, with the tree trunks, in the lawn somewhere near the edges or in the back of the border with many separate entrances and compartments, for housing domestic pigeons and for enticing various other birds in the garden. Though bird cages are also one of the elements in this direction but are not preferred because here birds are kept in captivity and do not have any freedom. However, these can become the charming ornamental features in their own right.
1.2.4.6 Sundials
Literally, sundial means an instrument that shows the time of a day by the position of a sun-generated shadow cast by a fixed gnomon (arm) onto a graduated plate or surface. In a garden it can be used as a focal point, can be erected at the junction of the path or in the end of axis, may be positioned at a suitable corner or side of the lawn, as a centre-piece in a formal flower bed, in the pools to link the informality of the plants to the pool’s formal margins, or as an elegant feature in a sunken garden but wherever it is positioned, for the long duration of the day no shadow of a building or a tree should fall over this otherwise its very purpose will be defeated. The sundial some 60-90 cm in height is made of stones, tiles, bricks, concrete or combination of these though mostly without cement coating 43 Landscaping so that it may look quite elegant and so may sometimes be used even as a focal point in the garden. The top of the column of the sundial is normally kept square fixed with sundial and compass. The column of the sundial is securely fixed in the ground with concrete. For making sundial, the dial in India as is nowhere available; it can be prepared by carving the digits on the stone or cement and then should be screwed to the base on the top of the structure keeping in view the movement of the sun. Live sundials with the help of ornamental plants in the form of topiary by projecting the plant parts as the dials and compasses are made through appropriate pruning but this requires regular and skilled clippings.
1.2.4.7 Floral Clocks
Floral clocks are the huge clocks in the garden where dial is represented either with carpet bedding of annual flowering plants or with Alternanthera, Iresine, etc., or with Pilea muscosa, Sedum, etc., or with various coloured pebbles; and the huge metallic or plastic hands for showing hours, minutes and seconds. These clocks are generally operated through electricity but the machinery pertaining to this is concealed in an underground chamber with only hands projecting above against the floral or pebble’s dial. Bedding may be done through green plants and the figures made by red plants or vice-versa.
1.2.4.8 Hills, Water, Watercourses, Waterfalls, Streams, Fountains, Culvert and Bridge Work, Islands, and Light
If the place where garden is to be created has a background of hillocks or hills, that will add another charming dimension to the design. Many a features in the gardens have been introduced based on hilly resources, as most of the garden styles developed in the hilly terrains. Also if there is a tall building, that may be taken as a background for making a hill-side view for imitating the nature. In case the hillocks are there in the background and the sun in the morning is rising from the peaks behind these and setting to the other side behind another hill peak, the sunrise and sunset give immense eternal pleasure as is the case in Cape Comorin or the one on the ‘Tiger Peak’ to be seen from Darjeeling (W.B.). Water features appeal to the senses of sight and sound and add magic to a landscape. The best location for the water features is the backyard of the most home landscapes but it should be proportionate to the design, the surroundings and the size of the house and garden. Since the landscaped view is to be created only in the given piece of land hence it is not certain whether that will have natural watercourses. Watercourse is a river or stream channel or an artificial channel through which water flows. Waterfall is a vertical stream of water that occurs where a river or stream falls over the edge of a steep place. Cascading waterfall is highly appealing to the senses. Only a few gardens have a natural stream or waterfall but it is possible to create such features the water from which may spill out in a pool or water reservoir. Watercourse or waterfall may artificially be created by change of levels and linking them. However, in an informal garden, the watercourse may be edged with stones and rocks as well as with moisture- loving plants. Stream is a narrow and shallow river. Fountain is an ornamental water feature, structured in a way that it has a jet or jets of water, often emerging from a statue and mostly creating a mist. It is often used in formal gardens as a focal point, for adding height to a design and for creating mobility and restless sound vis-à-vis scattering of light, especially effective if lit at night or in the moonlight garden such as Vrindavan Garden, Mysore. Bubbling fountains are 44 also created as a curiosity for children. Such fountains are structured underground Landscaping: Principles, and are covered with stones from where the water bubbles come out. The size Elements and Adornments and style of the fountain are related to the overall design of the garden and the pool or any other element where is has been created. Grotesquely carved or lion- headed water spouts are also quite effective in small gardens and conservatories where these provide pleasure of the running water like to that of a fountain in a large garden. Natural trickling streams may be tamed in a way that water may fall on the stones through spout fitted in a wall. In the plains where we lack natural watercourse, a pump may be fitted to a pool or water reservoir and connected through a pipe which is out through the mouth of the spout. Literally, the culvert is arched channel carrying water beneath a road or railway track but ordinarily it is used for a small bridge over a sunken area, over a small flowing watercourse or over a still water. In gardens, the culverts and bridges are constructed just to imitate nature, even if these are not utilitarian. As per necessity, these are created to reach an island, to cross the watercourses (flowing, and even still), for smooth shortcut walking over a quite depressed area instead of descending inside and then ascending to the other side which may be a cumbersome job, and for recreation. In the countryside gardens, these culverts and bridges are often constructed through bamboos and wooden structures & sleepers as these are cheaper and locally available vis-à-vis bring informality whereas in formal gardens normally these are made of bricks and concrete, or of steel as over the rivers on the mountainous terrains, and sometimes the suspended steel bridges are also used as in Rishikesh (Uttarakhand) over the Ganges. Culverts and bridges are one of the essential elements of Japanese gardens where these are normally bright red in colour. Island is a mass of land smaller than a continent, which is completely surrounded by water such as Andaman Islands, or Andaman & Nicobar Islands which accommodate some 500 different islands. A piece of land projecting substantially above the water level in a pond or a lake is also an island such as ‘Dal Lake’ in Srinagar (J & K) which also contains many islands inside and a few villages in the form of islands are inhabited where supply is restored through boats. A small floating island is located in ‘Khajyar’ near Dalhousie in H.P. where in a small lake a moss of greenery grown with grasses floats from one side to the other, and in ‘Dal Lake’ there are many floating islands artificially made for growing various vegetables and Japanese people took the idea of growing vegetables and ornamentals from this country to Japan. In certain gardens, sometimes the natural ponds or lakes are found having islands in them. In case there is no pond in a garden but the garden is large enough to accommodate a pool or pond, it may be created by making an island in the centre and in case the pond is large enough a series of islands may be created with planting of lawn and certain other ornamentals.
Light in a garden is the necessity as apart from providing safety to the people, it gives security for the grounds and enriches the night landscapes by the use of ornamental lighting (up-lighting and down-lighting) on the paths and steps for pedestrians and at the base of the specimen plants or artwork to create a mirror effect in the water body nearby, mirror lighting through light reflections on water, spotlighting provides intense beam of light to focalize an object, shadow lighting provides a distinct pattern of light and shadow on a wall or backdrop, silhouette lighting for projecting silhouette of a statue or a plant in the background, accent lighting (up-lights, down-lights or diffuse lights) are small lights for highlighting a small garden element, a plant or a work of art, cross lighting to project the same object or an area from different angles, moonlighting from different angles, 45 Landscaping and security lighting against the property. When using light in wet areas or in water, a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) is a safety device designed to protect people using electricity which should be used. The best example of this in the country is Vrindavan Garden in Mysore which gives enhanced landscape beauty only after the sunset.
1.2.4.9 Plant Stands
Plant stands also add beauty to a garden when displayed with beautiful plants. These are made of woods and steel wires and rods in various shapes and styles. Multi-tier stair-type front-sloping (tapering from bottom to the top) wooden benches accommodate many potted plants on their platforms situated at different ranks one after the other in a way that every plant gets the optimum morning sunlight. Two such benches kept back to back or the back of the benches kept close to a wall will hide the unwanted part. These benches are painted in white or green. Circular benches are rather more appropriate in 4-5-tier system narrowing from the bottom to the top, as all around these are viewable. Such stands will look appropriate in the centre or side of the lawn, at the junctions of the paths and in the end of the axis, and making and its arrangement will make it a focal point. Pretty Victorian wire plant stand in 3-4-tier circular system, the lowest platform accommodating many potted plants i.e. 8-10, next upper some 4-6 potted plants, the third tier some 3-4 plants and the top having only one large potted plant growing straight will bring utmost delight in the garden and will also act as a focal point. Vertically these are cylindrical in shape, the first tier some 1.0-1.6 m, the next some 0.6-1.0 m, next to next some 30-60 cm and the top one some 30-40 cm in diameter in case of 4-tier stand and below 30 cm in case of 3-tier stand. The plant stands of mild steel rods are moulded in various artistic ways and fixed with varying size of rings for holding the flowering plants. These may be displayed in the lawn, at entrance of the house, on the terrace, in the courtyard and patio, in the roof garden or elsewhere. Plants stands fixed with the walls are most suitable for indoor plants.
1.2.4.10 Stone or Japanese Lanterns
Japanese votive lanterns are one of the very popular features of Japanese gardens and are enjoyed as the attractive garden ornaments even in the western gardens. These are used during prayers and evening tea ceremonies by the Japanese vis- à-vis for showing the paths as well as a scene in the garden. However, in the winding paths the lanterns are positioned at intervals for guiding the guests or viewers during nights. Kasuga-style lanterns with their pagoda-shaped tops present a bold focal point. These are named so after a Kasuga shrine in Nara, Japan. Japanese lanterns have a strong base, earth ring, pedestal or legs; a pillar, trunk or shaft; a firebox support, above which lies the firebox, then the roof or umbrella above and finally the cap, all in a well chiselled way but it’s not necessary to have all the six parts. It may be as high as 45 cm (oki-gata), 80-85 cm (yukimi- gata), 1 m (ikedomi-gata), 1.5 m (tachi-gata), and 2 m (to-gata). These lanterns are usually carved artistically in white stones or marble stones to look more beautiful. These also have a place near the streams or pools.
46 Landscaping: Principles, Check Your Progress Exercise 3 Elements and Adornments Note : a) Space is given below for answers. b) Compare your answer with that given at the end of the unit. 1) Define garden paths, garden roads and garden drives...... 2) What are tubs, urns and vases ? ......
1.3 LET US SUM UP
In this unit, we have studied various terms being used in landscape gardening, importance of landscaping, various elements of aesthetics, various landscape features and various garden adornments. If one is sincere in considering all these points while laying out a garden, there is no reason as to why the garden will not be a place where one may not get beautiful environment, picturesque beauty throughout the year, eternal pleasure, solace, tranquillity and achievement.
1.4 KEY WORDS
Landscape, landscaping, landscape gardening, landscape design, landscape designer, landscape architect, hardscape, landscape elements, garden features, and garden adornments.
1.5 FURTHER REFERENCES 1) Bailey, L.H. (1960). The Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture (Vol. II). The Macmillan Co., New York. 2) Bhattacharjee, S.K. (2006). Advances in Ornamental Horticulture (Vol. 5). Pointer Pub., Jaipur. 3) Biondo, Ronald J. and Schroeder, Charles B. (2006). Introduction to Landscaping: Design, Construction and Maintenance (3rd Ed.), International Book Distributing Co., Lucknow. 4) Brickell, Christopher (Ed-in-Chief) (1992). The Royal Horticultural Society Encyclopedia of Gardening, Dorling Kindersley, London. 47 Landscaping 5) Coutts, J., Edwards, A., Osborn, A. and Preston, G.H. (1954). Ward, Lock & Co., Ltd., London. 6) Futehally, Laeeq (1978). Gardens, N.B.T., India. 7) Hackett, Brian (1979). Planting Design, McGraw-Hill Book Co., New York. 8) Hellyer, Arthur (1983). The Collingridge Illustrated Encyclopedia of Gardening, Collingridge Books, England. 9) McHoy, Peter and Evelegh, Tessa (1999). The Practical Encyclopedia of Garden Planning Design & Decoration, Lorenz Books, London. 10) Nambisan, K.M.P. 1992. Design Elements of Landscape Gardening. Oxford & IBH Pub. Co. Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi-110 001. 11) Randhawa, G.S. and Mukhopadhyay, A. (1986). Floriculture in India, Allied Pub. Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi-110 002. 12) Rice, Laura Williams and Rice (Jr.), Robert P. (1980). Practical Horticulture. Prentice-Hall, New Jersey. 13) Sehgal, G.S. (1997). A Handbook on Gardening Activities for Secondary School Teachers, SCERT, New Delhi-110 024. 14) Simonds, John Ormsbee (1961). Landscape Architecture, McGraw Book Co., Inc., New York.
1.6 ANSWERS TO CHECK YOUR PROGRESS EXERCISES
Check Your Progress Exercise 1
1) Various elements for landscape designs are: The First Approach, Axis, Divisional Lines, Space, Unity & Harmony, Scale, Balance & Proportion, Time & Light, Texture, Tone & Colour, Mobility, Mass Effect, and Focal Point.
2) Scale is the proportion of one object to another while balance implies equilibrium among the objects, viz., line, form, texture, colour, size, etc. in the garden.
Check Your Progress Exercise 2
1) Hedge is a continuous line of shrubs, especially of one species, planted for making a boundary or a division in the garden, while an edge is to demarcate beds and borders from roads or paths with some low growing herbaceous evergreen plants or seasonal flowers and bulbs (living edges), or bricks and river borne stones (rocks) as non-living edges.
2) Generally the bog garden is a low lying ground in a garden where surface drainage will automatically collect and which remains in moist or swampy state through the whole year and where those ornamentals that prefer moist or swamps for their growing are cultivated normally in natural form. A mere trickle of water will make the ground moist if the subsoil is sticky clay but in case where it is light and well drained, it requires certain amount of 48 excavation. Sunken garden is geometrical in design, normally having a Landscaping: Principles, sculptural feature in the form of fountain or sundial in the centre surrounded Elements and Adornments by formal beds containing roses, herbs and certain specialty flower or otherwise flower beds divided by a symmetrical framework of pathways, comparatively at lower level than rest of the garden, enclosed by walls and surrounded by raised grass or paved paths, and is viewed from the above. A well devised sunken garden adds a feeling of space and brings another dimension to the design.
Check Your Progress Exercise 3
1) A garden path is a surfaced track made for walking or cycling. The paths should be laid out in artistic manner after a great thought so that there is ready access to every part of the garden. In the rock garden the width of paths should be roughly 30 cm while of the main drive it may be even more than 4.5 metres. Normally the width of the path in a garden should not be less than 60 cm; the most convenient would be 90-120 cm. Garden road is a surfaced route broad enough for the vehicles (trucks, tractors, buses, trolleys, etc.) to be driven. Garden drive is a road or paved area that links house to the garage or street.
2) Garden tubs, urns and vases are garden ornaments which complement the visual energy of the garden. Tub is a low open round or oval wooden, earthen, China clay, cemented (white or mosaic) or stone-made (especially marble stones) ornamental container used as garden ornament. Urns are ornamental vases with pedestal which are either earthen or made of China clay, white cement, or marble stone, and these are also used as garden ornaments. Vases are also ornamental garden containers made of such things as tubs and urns and are usually tall, rounded and open.
49 Landscaping UNIT 2 GARDEN DESIGNS – TYPES AND STYLES
Structure 2.0 Objectives 2.1 Introduction 2.2 Garden Types and Styles 2.2.1 Garden Types 2.2.1.1 Formal, Geometrical or Symmetrical 2.2.1.2 Informal, Asymmetrical or Naturalistic 2.2.2 Garden Styles 2.2.2.1 American Gardens 2.2.2.2 Persian, Arab and Moorish Gardens 2.2.2.3 Egyptian Gardens 2.2.2.4 French Gardens 2.2.2.5 Italian Gardens 2.2.2.6 Spanish, Portuguese and German Gardens 2.2.2.7 Mughal Gardens 2.2.2.8 Indian, Sri Lankan and Chinese Gardens 2.2.2.9 English Gardens 2.2.2.10 Japanese Gardens 2.3 Let Us Sum Up 2.4 Key Words 2.5 Further References 2.6 Answers to Check Your Progress Exercises 2.0 OBJECTIVES
After going through this unit, you will be in a position to: know the differences between types and styles of gardens, explain the differences between formal and informal gardens, describe various special features of the various styles falling under formal gardens, explain various special features of the various styles falling under informal gardens, and know various characteristic features of various garden types and styles. 2.1 INTRODUCTION
In the holy Bible, there is mentioning of Eden, a garden where Adam and Eve first lived. In the earlier civilizations, religion and mythology played a major role in the life of our ancestors. Agriculture started some 10,000 years ago and that too probably by women as the men-folk had been away for fishing, hunting and collecting fruits; and the horticulture had been a part of agriculture. Then 50 there had been natural gardens for food, shelter and enjoyment; rivers for water Garden Designs – Types and to drink and for other uses; and caves for dwellings. Looking into the requirements, Styles the cultivation of the food plants started, and when they were sufficient with food, pleasure gardens were created initially with isolated culturing of ornamental and scented plants probably during ‘Indus Valley Civilization’, in Middle East, in China, in America or elsewhere or at different places one by one but independently where people had been enjoying the beauty of nature and going for meditation. Many countries for many centuries had been calling the pleasure gardens as paradise though now the term is obscured. In a well maintained garden, people enjoy the surrounding and feel happy, get solace, solitude, tranquillity and achievement, apart from fresh air to breathe in as gardens on the earth work as lungs in the body.
Irrespective of the creed, caste, culture or religion, people like gardens. A group of people worldwide like wild and naturalistic gardens, some asymmetrical while some other people like the symmetrical gardens. Some like growing their plants in natural form while others prefer training and clipping of the plants to a definite shape. Some people want rocks, pebbles and sands in the gardens with minimum of plants while some other people prefer water plants in the form of formal or informal pools or in conjunction with rock garden while still some other people prefer many other features in a garden. In fact, the garden is a private refuge where one can enjoy beauty of the nature, and can gain tranquility and achievements. The garden is also a place for attaining eternal peace through meditation. In fact, English gardens were conceptualized by British monasteries in the 10th century B.C. when they grew vegetables and fruits to feed the people of the monasteries, grew flowers for religious offerings, grew herbs and medicinal plants for human consumption and cure, domesticated fish for feeding the people of monasteries, etc. And as the time passed, at an elevated and central place a lavish house was built. In the 14th century, Botanical Gardens started coming into shape and the monastery’s utilitarian gardens transformed into flower gardens. In the 16th century, flower beds, knot gardens, topiaries and terraces were introduced in the English gardens. In the 17th century, the annual flowers got their way into the garden but this came into prominence only in the 18th century. At the same time, herbaceous borders, shrubberies and rosaries were introduced in the garden. This century matched with the inception of French gardens characterized by stone and water works, long and wide paths and ornamental fountains. In the 19th century, the term landscaping was conceptualized and many institutions developed imparting teaching and training in landscaping, landscape architecture and floriculture, and still the metamorphosis in garden development is going on at a very fast pace.
2.2 GARDEN TYPES AND STYLES There are, in fact, only two types of gardens i.e. i) formal with many styles such as American, Arabian, Egyptian, French, German, Italian, Moorish, Mughal, Persian, Portuguese, Spanish, etc., and ii) informal with certain styles such as Chinese, English, Japanese, etc. 2.2.1 Garden Types There are only two types of gardens, symmetrical and asymmetrical. Sometimes the third type is also described as wild gardens but, in fact, this is a combination of asymmetrical type and a forest as are being described below. 51 Landscaping 2.2.1.1 Formal, Architectural, Geometrical or Symmetrical
Formal garden is square or rectangular in shape where axis is drawn in the centre of the garden, dividing the garden into two equal parts, one part being the exact prototype of the other for every type of features, elements or adornments. The design of the formal garden is simple, ordered, elegant, balanced and well proportioned. The features of formal gardens are straight paths, well mown lawns, edgings, well maintained hedges, topiaries, borders, formal beddings in blocks of strong colours, vistas and focal points, and sometimes parterres, knot or sunken gardens gardens. In formal gardens, whatever size of space is available but that is utilized to better advantage. The walls, the borders, the hedging, the edging – all are accommodated in limited space. Out of many features, if any feature is to be created in a single number, it can be created at the end of the axis or somewhere in between but at the junction points so that balance of the garden is not spoilt. The axis may be in the form of a straight path, a straight road or a straight canal or flowing water. This design is very easy to create but is labour-intensive as requires very and regular maintenance. Such gardens are suitable in cities, or adjacent to the houses and bungalows. These gardens are created on even land so the land is made to fit the plants.
2.2.1.2 Informal, Asymmetrical or Naturalistic
Informal garden is of asymmetrical shape having no strong and ordered lines and instead has more flowing shapes with limited or controlled plantings in informal groups but in simple ways. Informal gardens are misunderstood with wild or mismanaged gardens but, in fact, if laid properly it looks quite natural. Though it is less labour-intensive but at times this also requires maintenance otherwise it will become quite messy and untidy with straggling branches where human penetration will also become difficult. Therefore, in such gardens balance is secured through asymmetrical plan but one should not forget all form of design as are found in formal gardens. Axis will be there which will divide the garden roughly in to two or sometimes in three parts. A large area will have to be planted with lawn which will have to be maintained properly. The rock garden, the water garden, watercourses, waterfall, curved as well as straight but scarce paths, hedges normally unclipped, flower beds in irregular shapes, bedding plants, trees, shrubs, climbers, bulbous plants, annuals, cacti and other succulents, fernery, palms and cycads, bamboos, reeds and other ornamental grasses, etc. will have to be planted in undulating beds and blocks having irregular shapes. Since such gardens normally have undulating topography so the plants are made to fit the land.
In the last decade of 19th century, William Robinson expounded the idea of wild garden where he advocated growing of plants as these grow in the wild – the unmown lawn, the untrimmed edges and hedges and instead growing them as if these grow in their native haunts, the scattered planting of bulbous plants here and there, in the lawn and elsewhere as these naturally grow in the pasture, meadows and woodlands, and the climbers trained up the trees to imitate the nature as these grow in the forest. His idea was to grow native species in natural associations for imitating nature but with little restrictions of maintenance so that these may not deviate from the basic idea of a garden and may rather look like a forest.
52 Garden Designs – Types and Check Your Progress Exercise 1 Styles Note : a) Space is given below for answers. b) Compare your answer with that given at the end of the unit. 1) Define formal gardens...... 2) Define wild gardens...... 2.2.2 Garden Styles
There are various styles of gardens to suit every person whether it be under formal type or informal, and these are American gardens, Arab (ian) gardens, Egyptian gardens, French gardens, German gardens, Italian gardens, Moorish gardens, Mughal gardens, Persian gardens, Portuguese gardens, Spanish gardens, Chinese gardens, English gardens, Japanese gardens, etc. and all these are described here under. Here all the styles fall under formal type except the last three.
2.2.2.1 American Gardens
First evidence of pleasure gardens in America is available as early as 1604 through a map drawn by Samuel de Champlain of Neutral Island in the St. Croix river between Maine and New Brunswick. These were two little patterned gardens in the formal 16th century style. Prior to this, America and Canada being surrounded by enemies were in hardships for their survival so nobody thought about creating pleasure gardens. In 1682, Philadelphia was planned for development as a green country town in square ornamental plots; about 4 ha open space in the centre of the town and four more spaces for public squares were provided. From 1750, trees started to be planted in the streets. New England villages also had central open spaces, and likewise gardens in Williamsburg (Virginia) and at George Washington’s house at Mt. Vernon (Virginia) were also created in formal William and Mary style in the second half of the 18th century though these gardens contained boxwood parterres and the clipped hedges in the European style when this style did not have any patronage in Europe and had long been discontinued. The gardens were created in a more aristocratic way in the south, viz., Virginia, Maryland and Carolina. In the 18th century, many houses had stately patterned 53 Landscaping gardens. Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello (Italian for little mountain) in Virginia was built in the latter half of 18th century at 174 m high hill. The top of the hill was flattened to create a site 180 m x 120 m for house and lawn. Landscape slopes were created on every side. Estate gardens were created in formal style having French and Spanish influence but in between the end of Revolution and 1830. In the mid-19th century, i.e. before the Civil War which broke out in 1860s, English landscape style made an impact in America which spread at a very rapid pace engulfing New York soon after and in the first half of the 19th century 340 ha land in the centre was acquired where a central park in 1854 was created in the ‘Capability Brown’ style with traffic flowing through it. In Boston, gardening started in 18th century having porches with flowers, shrubs and park-like streets. It was ‘People’s Parks’ in Chicago with a football ground having walks around this, a gymnasium, a children’s playground with a shallow pool, and a swimming pool with baths. At the Pacific coast, fine gardens were developed with Spanish ideas. In the second half of the 19th century, garden activities in States increased with a rapid pace, people as per their status used to make gardens vis-à-vis garden estates, and the horticultural club and press emerged, along with numerous seedsmen and nurserymen. The Whitney garden at Old Westbury, and Tobin garden at Syosset, both on the Long Island were formal and fine creations, first one with informal woodland and lawns under the shade of trees and the second one being actually a collection of gardens, viz., one of box and tulips, the other of perennials, the third of azaleas, and an accentuated long naturalistic pool among the trees. One more garden created so beautifully on the Island was Nelson Doubleday at Mill Neck, which had considerable use of box-edged borders, clipped hemlock hedges, pink dogwoods as specimens, and pergolas trained with hardy vines. Apart from these, there had been many more beautiful gardens on the Long Island.
The garden of Oakleigh Thorne at Millbrook, New York was spacious and had a formal French-style alley of maples, topiary garden, shrubs and trees, and naturalistic pools at less formal parts. The Kouzmanoff garden at Port Chester, New York, which started in the late 1940s was a small low-terraced garden having different elevations with various divisions but linked by paving. In about 7 ha land around old-style Pennsylvania house owned by Mrs. Lewis H. Parsons at Appleford, Villanova, a garden creation was started in 1920 which contained almost every landscape feature, viz., meadows, woodland, paved terraces, dogwood and lilac walks, potted plants in profusion, fresh water streams (brooks), waterfalls, a duckpond, a swimming pool, and specialized gardens: rose garden, boxwood garden, wall garden, rock wall plantings, flowering shrub garden, wild flower garden, etc., all being in unity and proportion to each other, hence each part was quite attractive and impressive in itself. The Dixon garden at Chestnut Hill, Pennsylvania was uncommon to American gardens due to extremes of climate. It had interlocked terraces to one side with a quite large lawn, native trees and flowering shrubs arranged in a very effective manner so that it may provide all the year round effect.
The Du Pont gardens; Kennett Square at Longwood, Pennsylvania is one of the great gardens of the world where an attempt has been made to accommodate as many ornamental plants of the world as possible. This garden has 1.4 ha area devoted only to glasshouses, replanting of the borders and the flower beds with the change of the season, illuminated colour fountains and organ music which remind the Italian Renaissance gardens. The other Du Pont garden at Wilmington, 54 Delaware was a formal French style garden. Middleton garden was founded by Garden Designs – Types and Henry Middleton at Charleston in 1741 with the idea of having an Old World Styles garden with profusion of flowering which was impossible to get there. Still this garden exists with the first camellias supplied by Andre Michaux, a French plant collector and nurseryman, in 1787. This formal garden of the days before the Revolution has water-gate with patterned pools and terraced cascades, formal beds, and azalea-lined or otherwise walks, and this garden at present has the finest camellia collections in the world. Magnolia gardens on the Ashley river at Charleston which was begun in 1840s and was planted with first imported Azalea indica, and a collection of camellias is a classic pattern garden with informal paths, black pools forming from the bark of the cypress, lawns, space with scattered trees, etc. resembles just like English parkland. A semi-tropical garden with the influence of Spanish garden style was the de Golyer garden in Dallas, Texas which came into offing by the end of Second World War (1939-45). The features of this garden were walls, arches, paved terraces, potted plants and potteries, house approach through a long, curving and wooded drive, branched paths from the avenue to various parts of the garden, terrace, a lake, lawn, fountain, flower garden, rose garden, etc. In this garden, architecture and vegetation, both were mixed up in harmonious manner. Before the World War I (1914-18), the Kanzler garden in Detroit was created with sufficient use of sculpture in the formal French style.
There had been influence of even Japanese garden style in America. The Green garden at Sausalito, California is the best example of the type. Such gardens had a very steep hillside, pot plants on wooden deck, dwarf pines and cut-leaved Japanese maples, bamboo screens, etc. as the Japanese features. The creation of Mueller garden at Pasadena, high in the foothills of the Sierra Madre, started in 1948 based on Japanese ideas. The large Merrill garden at Seattle was in formal style and similar to a French parterre. The features were fine turf and bright coloured flower beds of low growing annuals in a frame of clipped boxwood to create a carpet effect, and a central circular pool surrounded by four small rectangular rose beds on all the four sides.
The great gardens of America were at their peak in 1930 but many of them started disappearing due to the Depression Years of 1930s when costs of the commodities were rising alarmingly as had been again in 2008-09, there had been dearth of skilled labour and the alarming labour cost, the cities had been expanding and the pressure on the available land was increasing. The problem had been the same even in Great Britain. After second World War was over, the garden making in America was influenced with Arabic, Chinese, English, French, Italian, Japanese and Persian styles but maintaining their own characteristics. Americans do not use fencing between the gardens but have well maintained lawn in the front of the house, the shaping of the garden is done in a way to present the best view of the garden from the house so the garden-side wall is normally made of glasses, construction of rock garden though it made late entry but it fascinated Americans in the 1920s when English landscape gardener Ralph Hurcock introduced this there, and patios as living areas taking the place of the backyards.
Though Americans have great passion for gardening but during colonial times the scene was dominated by informal English garden styles while afterwards by formal Italian, Spanish and French styles. Moreover, where they had even lands i.e. in the plains and the foothills, they created formal gardens but on the hill 55 Landscaping slopes and peaks they created asymmetrical gardens with geometrical touch i.e. informality in the formal gardens. By and large, Americans like symmetrical garden styles.
2.2.2.2 Persian, Arab and Moorish Gardens
The history of the garden in Persia is quite old and was based on heaven or paradise as in case of Japanese garden though both differ widely from each other. Chinese gardening ideas reached Japan in the 6th century A.D. at the time when Arabs were in an Islamic sword spree across North Africa and into Spain and to the East into Persia (now Iran) and all the old Persian gardens then were dotted with the sway of the Islam [Muhammad or Mohammad, the Arabian founder of Islam (570-632) and Koran or Quran (the sacred text of Islam, believed by Muslims to record the revelations of God to Muhammad)]. In Persia, small town houses had small gardens with high walls and narrow and shallow irrigation channels, the wealthy people had large gardens having irrigation channels (canals) lined with tree avenues, central pool lined with blue tiles and in the middle a pavilion split into four sections around the building. The third form of gardens were having palaces on slopes with a background of mountains, a pavilion at the top over the terraces which were watered by streams, a pool at the bottom of the slope, and a long and straight tree avenue up to the gate. The third forms of gardens with palaces were being built outside the town so that through avenues the towns could be seen even if it is up to three kilometers. They used crafted materials such as masonry, carved marble stones and highly polished stones. Persians used to make the gardens in terraces of the hill slopes and were taming some watercourses (nahars) straight into their gardens, the flowing cold water being the concept of Persian ‘paradise’. The fruit trees represented the symbol of life while Cypress symbolized death and eternity. In Persian gardens, the selection of trees and their planting is done in a very systemic manner. Persian gardens have magnificent gateways. The Persia, after the Arabs was also invaded first by Mongols and then the Turks which took with them the faith of Islam and the Persian culture including making of Persian gardens. The idea of Persian gardens via Samarkand reached India through Persia’s eastern adjoining countries, to be flourished in the hands of the Great Mughals in India.
The Arabs invaded Persia, and told them that according to Koran they all should make four gardens, two each with two fruit trees apart from shade trees, and two fountains each, while other two gardens with dark composition again having two fountains flowing in each garden, with fruit trees, pomegranates and palm trees. Afterwards, instead of four parts the internal garden was divided into eight parts representing the eight divisions of Koran. The whole garden, characteristic to the art of Islam, acquired the geometrical symmetry. Along the water channels they made regular alternate planting of fruit and cypress trees to symbolize death and the renewal of life at the flowering every year. Persians preferred date, fig, walnut, olive, orange, pomegranate, mulberry, nectarine, quince, cherry, apricot, apple, pear, plum, peach, etc. as fruit trees, and cypress, ash, elm, pine, oaks, maples, willow, alder, poplar, beech, juniper, etc. as shade trees. Among the flowers, they have passion for rose, narcissus and many other flowers. Among the roses, Rosa damascena, a native of that land was highly valued for its fragrance. The ancient Persian garden idea was mirrored in North Africa and Sicily and then to Spain via Baghdad and Damascus, by the Arab conquerors who had gained the so called gardening knowledge from Persia and when the 56 emirs of Sicily were conquered by the Normans, its effect reached to Western Garden Designs – Types and Europe vis-à-vis England. Styles
In the eighth century A.D., the interest in gardens in Moorish Spain started with the first Omeyyad Emir, Abd er-Rahman. After conquering Cordoba (S. Spain), he started creating gardens on the model of a garden at Damascus in Syria for which he sent persons to Turkestan and India for collecting plants and seeds. The third emir, Abd er-Rahman got created a terrace garden high up on the slopes of Sierra Morena, suburb of Cordoba (southern Spain) with palace at the top. This was the beautiful garden in the midst of attractive mountain scenery. With the passage of time, there had been drastic refinement in the ideas of Persian gardens. At the place of tanks and fountains, a lake with water pavilion was formed at Toledo (Central Spain) with stained glasses ornamented with gold where Sultan used to enjoy the beauty and coolness of water not only during the mid-day but also at dusk under the lamp light. The Alcazar garden at Cordoba built during Moorish days, still below the patio has remains of the old garden with paved terrace having two large ornamental tanks for water supply to the fountains and the ‘glorietas’ (arbours of rose and jasmine) displaying eight pearl pavilions of the Muslim paradise though cypress avenues have vanished. At the Alhambra gardens in Granada (Spanish city), the Moorish culture is strongly visible as the gardens and buildings are completely merged with each other in a way that architecturally both look as one entity. Here the park is at lowest level, four of the Moorish garden courts of the palace remain, and a canal runs through the whole length of the court and terminates at each end in a fountain. Though the gateways are quite large in Persian gardens but in Moorish courtyard gardens these vanished.
2.2.2.3 Egyptian Gardens
In the second half of the third millennium B.C. an empire in the Babylonian soil came into offing where king Sargon had planted foreign trees, vines, figs and roses. Tiglath-Pileser, king of Assyrians about 1100 B.C. was also interested in trees and he dreamt planting of cedars, box and certain other trees of foreign origin in the parks of Assyria, though no park existed there but he admired so. The story goes beyond the land of Tigris and Euphrates where a third river, Nile coming from Africa into the Mediterranean passes between the Arabian and the Western Deserts, laying a fertile belt along the sea, gave rise to another civilization, the Egyptian which was very comfortable as it did not face any war with the foreign soil because of being isolated. This country became very prosperous so many palatial houses were built and many temples erected having shade trees with sacred groves. The private gardens also had ponds. In a tomb painting of a typical Theban house, about the middle of the second millennium B.C., showed a house with garden having main gate opening to a tree-lined canal, and the garden divided into symmetrical beds with low stone walls. This was an absolute formal rectangular garden. The garden had large vine covered trellis in the centre erected on four rows of slender pillars. There were four small ponds with ducks or water fowls, waterlilies; tree avenues planted with doum palm (gingerbread tree), date palm and Ficus sycomorus for shade; two summer houses; and the ponds planted with papyrus reed (emblem of upper Egypt) and sacred lotus (emblem of lower Egypt). Pharaoh Thutmose III who reigned Egypt around the middle of the second millennium B.C. imported ornamental plants for his gardens as gardens by this time were in the peak of their development. Queen Hatsheput 57 Landscaping during the same time developed a beautiful terrace garden comprising of three terraces ornamented with pillared covered walks, stairways and slopes leading to rock shrine at the top, ponds for cooling effects, and the trees (some 32 trees imported from Somalia) planted in the cut-holes of the rocks. People used to visit this garden from the river side through a long avenue of sphinxes (an imaginary winged lion-bodied creature with woman head) and trees. About 300 years later than Queen Hatsheput, another great Egyptian monarch, Rameses III gave 514 garden sites to temples. He originated growing of bushes and small trees in large engraved earthenware vases. Tutankhamen who ruled Egypt from 1361 to 1352 B.C., his tomb survived the modern times and on excavation the most familiar plants to Egyptians, viz., sycamore fig, the date and doum palms, the papyrus and the sacred lotus were recovered from the spots where these were buried along with wreaths of flowers, necklace of olive and willow leaves and lotus flowers, and the flower necklace prepared on the base of papyrus. This shows the love of Egyptians for flowers and gardens at national level and the gardeners in this country were the honoured men. When Western Europe was still in the Stone Age and when the great age of Greece and Rome had not yet begun, the Egyptians were enjoying formal gardens with lotus-filled pools.
2.2.2.4 French Gardens
Charles VIII of France when Marched into Italy in 1495, he was so impressed by the cultural achievements there that while returning back he brought some 22 Italian artists back into France with numerous art treasures including sculptures which he established in the court at Amboise on the Loire. Afterwards, French Renaissance started and he sent many of the French artists and other scholars from various fields to learn Italian culture, art and other ideas but Charles died soon and his reign was taken over by Luis XII, his successor, who shifted the court from Amboise to Blois where a mediaeval garden existed in a form of a strip which was enlarged in three terraces, all separated by enclosures with no connecting steps, the middle terrace with central pavilion and a Venetian fountain, being surrounded with wooden galleries full with green plants and the gallery also connected the house, and the lowest terrace with parterres. During 1516-20 when Villa Madama was being built and Francis I took the reign from Louis XII, Cardinal Amboise started working on the garden of the castle of Gaillon on the Seine above Rouen. Due to political turmoil in Italy again and due to hegemony of Emperor Charles V, Francis I was captured in 1525 in Pavia (Italy) and jailed in Madrid (Spain), and Italy was looted and devastated in 1527 but Renaissance in Italy, so long the gardens are concerned, continued. By this time in France, the concept for large gardens developed with a castle, flowing water or canal, a pond with fountains and effigies of sea-beasts, statues, avenues planted with trees, a pavilion, gallery or pergola and paths, grotto, parterres and clipped box bushes in various designs, and flower beds, all though in symmetrical form but without any order, harmony, balance and unity among all the features. By the middle of 16th century, in real sense, the French gardens had balanced features and symmetry, mostly in tune with Italian gardens. In the 17th century, Jacques Boyceau was the great artist in parterre making and he published his views on the subject in his Traite de Jardinage in 1638 and through which he advocated only two gardens – one a kitchen garden and the other a flower garden instead of several separate gardens then existing. He emphasized the proportionate heights of trees and shrubs vis-à-vis lengths and breadths of paths, to rest of the garden.
58 French garden style until 16th century was a copy of Italian garden when court Garden Designs – Types and life was shrouded with stiff formality but during 17th and 18th century this was Styles shaped in a real form having very intricate and artificial designs for which credit goes to Le Notre who served the Royal Garden of Luis XIV from 1643 to 1700. His main creations include the garden at Versailles with long and wide avenues. Le Notre had to dismantle three villages in Vaux-le-Vicomte to create his vista, this being his first masterpiece. His creations of art are unparallel among all the formal gardens. This style has strong architectural and symmetrical designs in proportion and scale of the building which this surrounds. The Le Notre style of formal garden dominated the gardens of civilized Europe for a long time. Credit goes to French gardens for developing park-systems in the last quarter of the 19th century.
2.2.2.5 Italian Gardens
Italian garden styles came into existence at the time of Renaissance (end of Middle Ages, the period in European history from about 14th to 16th centuries) when major cultural and artistic changes took place, Gothic architecture was replaced with the new and strong architectural and symmetrical designs, and the formal gardens that existed in ancient Greece and Rome inspired palatial and villa gardens of Italy and France in the 17th and 18th century. The characteristic features of these gardens are their strong symmetrical designs commensurate to the proportion and scale of the building where these are created. Italian gardens are often created on dominating or elevated sites with heavy masonry features but with different characters as to those of Persian or Mughal gardens. Italians constructed such gardens in the form of an elegant outdoor hall as extension of their lavish palaces (especially the palaces in having round arches, vaults, and domes) for entertainment vis-à-vis for showing their status and wealth. Italian gardens have well maintained terraced gardens often with parterres and topiary works, massive flight of stairs often of marble stones leading to a long and shaded walks planted with mostly evergreen trees or shaded with iron pergolas, complete with balustrade to connect the different levels in the garden, pergola, arbours of the evergreens, rosaries, fountains often in combination with sculptured stones or statues, cascades and flowing water (canal), the beds of flowers (bulbous, annuals, orchids, herbs, etc.). These all the features provided cooling effect in a Mediterranean hot climate. Such gardens also have well-proportioned urns or vases for citrus and ornamental plants. There had been sharp decline of the art of the Italian gardens with the fall of the Roman Empire but it left an impression that gardening could be a most respected form of art.
Renaissance influence was very clear in 16th century. In 1516, the work on first truly Renaissance Villa (Villa Madama) outside the walls of Rome, not to be used as residence but only for entertaining so it contained many courts. Here the garden and the house were merged with each other. Villa Cicogna at Bisuchio near Lake Lugano still has its 16th century character intact. During Renaissance time and afterwards, there had been a great deal with garden making in whole of Italy. In 1570, a small Renaissance garden was created in the vicinity of Florence, the Villa Capponi at Arcetri which still exists. An island in Lake Magiore was converted into a vast pleasure valley, the work started in 1630 and completed in 1670. Two-third of the island was converted into a garden. It had some 10 terraces, some 30 metres above the surface of the lake. Whole of the garden was full of parterres. 59 Landscaping 2.2.2.6 Spanish, Portuguese and German Gardens
In the earlier part of the 16th century, the Spanish gardens were still influenced by Moorish ideas that had conquered Spain in the 8th century, though some 30 years ago they were finally defeated. A palace was designed and built on the Alhambra hills in Spain by Pedro de Machuca in 1526 based on Villa Madama of France and as per Charles V (1500-58, and who was king of Spain from 1516- 56, and emperor of the Holy Roman Empire from 1519-56) vision of the Renaissance gardens of Italy. Before the retirement of Pedro in 1556, Charles designed a fine terrace garden around this palace. Afterwards, in true Renaissance style, many gardens with bordered beds, grotto, high boundary walls, etc. came into offing installed with elegant statues and fountains, all in a balanced symmetrical form. The garden walls were full of inscriptions and old carvings. As per the last wishes of Charles V and also to match the victory of St. Quentin on August 10, 1557, Philip II started construction of a building in 1563 having all in one i.e. a monastery, royal palace and a tomb in the foothills of the Guaderrama mountains some 50 kilometres north of Madrid. This building had a very large court, the patio de los Evangelistas, an octagonal temple, a wide esplanade, a large garden with full of statues and fountains, many imported from Italy, all with Renaissance feeling. Some of the gardens which Charles V had created were given new look in the Renaissance style by Philip II, providing new avenues, fruit trees, fountains and statues, though only little of his works remains now. Again in 1628, many gardens were improved in the line of Italian and Roman gardens. Philip IV got built the Alcazar (a palace in Spain, especially built with designs of Moors) in Madrid which still exists as the main public park there and the gardens around this palace were designed by Cosimo Lotti with engravings which evidently show that still the Moorish influences existed there, but with no overall unity in the design. In this garden, the first hermitages due to the influences of the monks of San Jeronimo were included, symbolizing in the Spanish mind the union of religious and secular affairs. Later on, the creation of Buen Retiro marked the end of Italian influence in Spanish gardens but Spanish gardens were symmetrical in design and style.
During Renaissance time, certain beautiful Portuguese gardens were developed having strong influence of the Italian gardens, the first being at Bacalhao by a person who travelled from Portugal to Italy in 1521. He constructed his house with a court flanked by pavilions and an alegrete, the Portuguese equivalent of the giardino segreto of the Italian gardens or giardini segreti of the French gardens, i.e. the creation of grand view or focal point, at a corner of a very large terrace, and a large sunken basin some 27 metres long by the side of high walls in the opposite corner, in the side of which there was a hall with three pavilions, and at the other corners there were two small pavilions, but with no fountains, and with drastic deviations than those previously occurred in Spain or in Italy. Further gardens in Portugal, apart from these features, also included fountains, statues, geometrically formed parterres, water staircases within an avenue of trees, and large basins at the side of the terrace wall which sometimes occupied the whole length of the garden. The Portuguese gardens are formal in style.
The Renaissance in Germany was seen first through town gardens but with Italian influence because of the close trade links between the two countries. The money-lenders from Germany (Augsburg, Breslau, Nuremburg, Frankfurt and Ulm) to the princes of Europe, had gardens full of curious water features, statues, 60 an enclosure of green lattice-work having pillars crowned with pyramidal stone Garden Designs – Types and or busts, windows with potted flowers, geometrical parterre, flowers in pots, Styles little boxed trees at the corners, well clipped hedge-work around, benches, wide middle path, and gates. The large gardens created in 1566 at the castle of Ambras in the Tyrol (Austria) and the one in Vienna a year or so later, also had Italian influence. Probably the first Renaissance garden was that of Rudolf II in the north of the Alps which had a castle with the garden having its main axis as a line of the fountains. German gardens were at their best in the early 17th century. Mirabelschloss in Salzburg garden created during 1613-19 was Renaissance in style but without any unity with the castle. The characteristic features of the German gardens were the castle, the terrace or lawn, flower beds, plants in pots, water features and water-tricks, fountains, many statues, lattice-work, pillars, parterres, hedges, benches, trees, grottoes (rain grotto, mirror grotto, a dragon coming out of a hole in the rock, drinking from the fountain and vanishing, singing birds, springing ruins as if falling, etc.), overall influenced by the Italian styles. The gardens in Germany were symmetrical in shape. The outbreak of the war in 1618 which continued for 30 years halted garden development in Germany.
2.2.2.7 Mughal Gardens
In 1519 Hernando Cortes and his Spanish army crushed the Aztec empire in Mexico and established a barbaric religion based on human sacrifice but the same time, opposite to this, there had been tremendous high order artistic development and attraction to the beautiful things including flowers. The approach to Tenochtitlan, the Aztec empire capital was through a causeway between lakes Chalco and Texcoco, and on the way there was Iztapalapan renowned for its large and extremely beautiful gardens in regular squares; the intersecting paths were bordered with trellises, creepers and aromatic shrubs; fruit trees from other countries; the bright Mexican flowers arranged nicely; water channels or canals for carrying irrigation water to all parts of the garden; and a large reservoir of stones. Spaniards were further amused to see the floating artificial islands used as nursery gardens on causeways over the lake in Tenochtitlan, terrace gardens between the houses and flower gardens on the flat roofs of the buildings. Parks and gardens had beautiful summerhouses decorated with fountains, irrigation channels and canals, lakes and their bathing places, puzzling paths and great variety of flowers and trees of all kinds. Therefore the very strong walls of unbelievable size, going from one mountain to another, were being built with an aqueduct at the top connected with the highest point of the park. In 1532 Francisco Pizarro conquered the Inca Empire in Peru where the beautiful palaces were made, and the gardens were established even under the less favourable conditions than in Mexico. Further west in India i.e. north-west of the Indian sub-continent, remarkable gardens appeared again in the 16th and 17th centuries, on the basic principles of old Persian gardens. Via the trade route from east to west, in 1220 Chenghis Khan and his Mongols also conquered Persia by burning Persian towns and slaughtering their populations. Great Timur (ancestor of the Mughal dynasty in India, 1335-1405) conquered Persia again and under his rule the country was comfortable where Bokhara and Samarkand flourished very well. In Bokhara, there were some 2,000 pleasure houses during his rule and he made 11 large canals to augment the proper water supply. Timur made his capital in Samarkand which was even better than Bokhara where a large area was brought under gardens. ‘Bagh-i-Dil kusha’ was in the east with a long avenue up to the town, another ‘poplar garden’ was there with a magnificent palace having Poplar Avenue and 61 Landscaping ‘Bagh-i-Blisht’ (the paradise garden) which Timur called his ‘hermitage’. The palace accommodated many palaces, made entirely of the white marble of Tabriz, around which was a deep trench with two bridges over it opening into the gardens having fruit trees of all kinds; five paved avenues of trees in the form of platforms, leading from one tank to the other; six great tanks passing from end to end of the garden; a park with wild animals; and a clay hill in the centre of the hall. Zahir- ed-din-Muhammed, called as Babur (the Tiger) conquered Samarkand twice but being unable to retain his throne permanently he established himself in Kabul from where he tried to invade India unsuccessfully four times but the fifth time in 1526 he defeated Sultan of Delhi and established himself as the first Mughal (Mongol) emperor of India. Babur was brought up in the atmosphere of Persian art and culture and he had great love for poetry and gardens. During his rule in India, he visited Samarkand under the rule of his uncle and watched the gardens his uncle had created and with those ideas he created gardens in India. The common features of such gardens are square or rectangular shape, surrounded by a high wall, a lofty entrance gateway (up to four in large gardens), angles of gardens marked by octagonal pavilions, waterways at right angles to each other, a stone or brick-edged canal extending the whole length of the garden, water flowing to the bottom of waterfalls into a tank with many small fountains, avenues planted with trees around the boundary wall and along the paths in the garden, open turf squares with large trees at the corners or a tree in the centre, pergola and shady walks, flower beds, etc. all in a formal symmetry. Babur kept his capital in Agra and built Ram Bagh garden, the earliest garden of Mughals in India which is still surviving. Babur was succeeded by Humayun in 1531 so around his tomb in south of Delhi, a typical Mughal garden is made. Humayun’s successor Akbar who ruled the country from 1556 to 1605 was the first Mughal to enter Kashmir where a number of gardens were made including Nasim Bagh in the form of terrace garden in an open position at the shores of Dal Lake which has now vanished. Nishat Bagh (the garden of gladness) was created on Dal Lake probably by Asaf khan but in the reign of Jahangir. In this garden mountains and water are set in a very charming manner and the garden constitutes 12 grand terraces, each dedicated to a sign of zodiac. The stream from the mountain rushes down through all the terraces with number of stones and marble thrones at every waterfall, and fountains in every tank. The garden is quite formal with flower beds to both the sides, with parterres at two of the terraces, the turf spaces, and a pavilion in the centre of the lowest terrace. Shalimar Bagh (abode of love, initially named as Farah Baksh meaning bestower of joy) in Kashmir was built in A.D. 1630 by Jahangir, helped by his son Shah Jahan where zenana garden is surrounded on all sides by the play of fountains, a most beautiful creation in a Mughal garden. Chasm-e-Shahi garden in Kashmir was made in 1632 by Ali Mardan Khan for Shah Jahan. After his death, Akbar was buried in Sikandra near Agra which was given a form of Mughal garden. Jehangir took the throne from Akbar who created many garden at Udaipur. Shah Jahan in memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal made Taj Mahal at Agra with white marble which is enclosed through walls from three sides though the fourth side opens to the river Yamuna. In front of the building a canal runs through up to the gate and both the sides have lawn spaces and flower beds.
Mughal gardens are made on exact principles of Persian gardens except that former, in addition to Persian garden features, has a boundary wall, garden entrance or gate, baradari (an arbour-like structure made of stone and masonry with raised platform and concrete roof, having 12 or more doors, accentuated 62 with great masonry work) and tomb or mosque. However, terrace, nahars or Garden Designs – Types and flowing water, the background of mountains from the slopes of which perennial Styles rivulet or river flows and that is tamed through the garden as an axis, and trees and other ornamental plants, are the most prominent features.
2.2.2.8 Indian, Sri Lankan and Chinese Gardens
In the 3rd millennium B.C., with the rise of the great civilization on the silt of the Indus valley to the north-west of the Indian sub-continent, chief city being Mohenjo-daro the civilization of which succumbed to invaders in 1700 B.C., it was found that inhabitants in and along their houses did not have any provision for gardens but were growing ornamental plants in pots and tubs in the courtyards and for indoor decoration, and had planting of trees, especially the sacred tree ‘pipal’ (Ficus religiosa) which had religious significance, which made the basis for creating fine gardens in India. And then gardens in India were almost similar as to western countries except the plants which in India were tropical in nature. The Buddha himself, as infant Siddhartha Gautama, was born in the forest of Lumbini in Nepal under a tree in the 6th century B.C. when her mother was going back to her parent’s home. Indian gardens had a great variety of flowers as has been said by a Chinese visitor to India in 5th century A.D. that one such garden given to the Buddha had innumerable flowers of various colours. Indian gardens were almost informal.
Two centuries after the death of Buddha, Buddhism spread to Sri Lanka and akin to Indian gardens, the parks and gardens along with the sacred buildings soon got their due places in Sri Lanka. These gardens were just like the ones then in India i.e. informal.
Chinese was animist thinking that everything (rocks, mountains, rivers, seas, sky, etc.) in nature has its own spirit, and when the Buddhism entered there in the 1st century A.D. the garden culture already existed there, their animist nature started changing but they still had the same reverence for the mountains. Record is there that large gardens were made for the emperor Chou about 2,000 B.C. as is found in the historical records of Ch’in dynasty (221 to 206 B.C.), and the Han dynasty which ruled China for four centuries (206 B.C. to 201 A.D.). Ch’in emperor Shih Huang Ti had the great park ‘Ah Fang Kung’, but emperor Wu-ti who reigned the Han dynasty from 140 to 87 B.C., had a passion for creating various gardens in every valley between the mountains, having palaces, pavilions and grottoes. With the founding of the Society of the White Lotus by Hui Yuan in A.D. 370, Buddhism started expanding and the park-like gardens developed for creating peaceful atmosphere. Sung dynasty from A.D. 960 until the Mongol invasion in the early 13th century A.D., made great cultural advances where large gardens were also made as is mentioned in a poem written in 11th century. These gardens are characterized by hills or piling of rocks (simulating mountains); the rocks; sand, shells and pebbles; seats; waterfalls or springs; pools with lotus and fish; steps; shelters; kiosks; a terrace; zigzag, winding or spiral footpaths made from sand, sometimes paved; bridges; rosaries; medicinal plants, herbs, and sweet- smelling plants; bushes; flowers; pomegranates; citrons and oranges; the bamboos; pines, firs, willows, and conifers; tea plantation; thatched cottage or palaces as to who created a Buddhist monk or a king; a pavilion a pillared hall at an isolated position for meditation and other functions. Gardening in China had a long association with painting. Since in China, by nature there was no symmetry so the creation of the garden was also asymmetrical. 63 Landscaping The origin of oriental gardens is said to be some 3,000 years old as Chinese scholars, philosophers, artists and poets had been creating peaceful and quiet places in the form of asymmetrical gardens for the purpose of pleasure, contemplation, meditation, tranquility and achievements. They used to imitate simple and symbolic natural elements like simple buildings with tea houses, pavilions or temples, mountainous scenes, rocks, waterfalls, lakes or water reservoir and green valleys, like to that which occur naturally in the Chinese mountains, but only with a few plants. Such gardens had rocks in enclosures, winding or zigzag paths for viewing various creations, steeply arched water bridges for viewing water reflections, creation of dry gardens consisting of hills and stones in dry watercourses, and restricted planting of trees and shrubs though the country is very rich in the natural floras in the world, each one having an special place or meaning in the overall garden composition. The creation of garden only with a few plants is only because such gardens were not created by botanists or gardeners. There had been no noticeable change in the Chinese style of gardening with the rise and fall of the dynasties.
2.2.2.9 English Gardens
The history of British garden dates back to 14th century when monks and priests started growing vegetables for feeding the people of monasteries, herbs and medicinal plants. Gardens in England in Charles II’s time were very formal but lacking in flowers. In the mid-16th century, flower beds, topiaries and terrace gardens were introduced into English gardens. Formality was intensified when in 1689 there had been accession to English throne by William and Mary from Holland. During this period, a prominent personality, William Bentinck, first Earl of Portland and a Dutch intimate of the king was appointed Superintendent and George London as Deputy Superintendent of the Royal Gardens. London in collaboration of Henry Wise had floated a firm in 1681 which was joined by Wise in 1689. London was quite talented and he was also sent to France by Charles II where he learnt French as well as Dutch styles. On his return he worked for Bishop Compton who was the famous grower of exotic plants during that period. For 20 years the firm of ‘London and Wise’ which also had a nursery of 40 ha at Brompton mainly for supply of evergreens, dominated garden design in England. For formal gardens evergreens are most suited as these can be kept in shape through clipping and show little change with the change of the weather. Garden styles in England in the last quarter of the 17th century were much influenced by the Chinese garden styles. Lord Burlington in 1719 brought back William Kent with him from Italy visit and kept him at Burlington House in Chiswick who designed a few gardens after 1730 away from the regularity in designs. In the first half of the 18th century, the estate of Lord Cobham at Stowe in Buckinghamshire was continuously developing. Lancelot Brown who was employed there in 1740s, first working under Bridgeman and then under Kent but both had grown old so after their retirement, Brown continued with full confidence and in 1751 he moved out to Hammersmith as garden designer. Brown’s popularity as garden designer attracted royal attention and he was appointed Master Gardener to George III, initially to landscape the king’s country residence at Richmond, which included both the Old Deer Park and the part of modern Kew Gardens near the Thames. Brown overhauled this garden completely and planted his groves and single trees, and created his usual landscape on the flat site but the garden lacked major water source. During this period (middle of 18th century), the gardens were laid out with more emphasis on architectural 64 features, viz., curved paths, informal grouping of trees, rivulets or streams, artificial Garden Designs – Types and waterfalls and clipped hedges. The eastern half of the Kew Gardens of today was Styles possessed by George III’s mother (Princess Augusta of Wales) who had employed Sir William Chambers to style this garden. Serving Swedish East India Company, Chambers visited China and worked on nature’s garden as is naturally found on the mountain peaks, glades and valleys. Jesuit missionary Jean-Denis Attiret in 1747 published a letter which was translated in 1749 in London where the Chinese art of gardening was described. In essence the letter tells that from one valley to another through a winding path adorned on the sides with little pavilions and charming grottos, the entire hills sprinkled with trees, especially with flowering ones, the sides of the zigzag canals or little streams looking not interfered but in natural form, wide at some places and narrow at other places as nature produces, and the flowers coming out from the crevices of the rocks on the banks in every season, all looking as if nature has gifted so. Influenced by the letter, Chambers, between 1756-63, divided George III’s mother’s garden at Kew into three parts with a peripheral belt. He built White House as Augusta’s residence in the north of the lake, next to the house was a fine orangery in the classical style, a botanic garden in 3.6 ha area, a flower garden, and classical temples among the trees, two irregular meadows in the south of the lake for grazing by sheep and goats, and the most exotic buildings in the southernmost area. This letter was taken honourably as a kind of authority for ‘natural’ style in England and there a craze also developed for Chinese buildings. Brown died in 1783, and in 1788 Humphry Repton who was born in 1752 at Bury St. Edmunds took up the task of Brown. Though he subscribed most of the ideas of Brown but he used terrace from older styles, and ‘monastic’ or ‘Tudor’ flower beds in his designs. Repton died in 1816, the year after Waterloo, and with his death the art of landscape gardening almost dies, it is said so.
Afterwards, when American plants and other hardier species were introduced in the country, English gardens introduced shrubberies, and flower beds in various shapes among them being separated with 1.5-1.8 m grass strips, in 1825 Richard Harris advocated the ‘bedding out’ of half-hardy plants, then after ‘carpet bedding’ was introduced which flourished well up to 1880, rosaries and herbaceous borders also got place, and one by one many other types of ornamentals were introduced , viz., trees, cacti and other succulents, orchids, ferns, etc. End of the 18th century introduced heated glasshouses. The first rock garden, in the entire history of gardens, was demonstrated by the firm of Backhouse of York with alpines in 1859 but when George Carling Joad of Wimbledon gave his collection of alpines to Kew and then only the true Kew rock garden was made in 1882 and then afterwards it was being introduced into every garden it was so liked by the British. In the late 1830s, again the idea for formal style took a violent turn and in 1890s the feelings for the older styles erupted. However, in the 20th century, further changes in garden style were brought and then in England there had been prevalence of the informal gardens.
Due to high rainfall and favourable climatic conditions, the natural ground cover in the English countryside is grass, that is why British garden architects, Repton and Capability Brown advocated that British gardens should look like the countryside and the garden should merge with it and there should not be any artificial barrier like the wall, fences or hedges. The main features of the English gardens are lawn, terrace gardens, paths and drives, pavilions, herbaceous borders, shrubbery borders, topiaries, trees and climbers, fernery, orchidarium, other 65 Landscaping succulents, rosaries, flower beds and carpet bedding, bulbous plants, waterfalls, streams, water gardens, rock gardens, glasshouses, etc.
2.2.2.10 Japanese Gardens
The Japanese garden concept was borrowed from the Chinese some 1,200 years ago but with their own sources of inspiration in the hills, lakes and islands. Chinese gardening ideas reached Japan in the 6th century A.D. along with entry of Buddhism through China but Buddhism did not destroy their Shinto religion (original faith of Japan) and instead added a new dimension to the old faith. Japanese garden style differed from the Chinese because they have denser planting of properly shaped or dwarfed trees and shrubs, shaped stones, raked gravels or sands surrounding heaped or mounded islands, and stone lanterns. Japanese absorbed and transformed into their own through their art skills and abandoned the Chinese culture which was then most civilized in the world. “The special characteristic of the Japanese garden is the ingenious artistry and symbolism which turn the miniature landscapes into something more profound and eternal” (Mori, 1962). By the 8th century A.D. they had their full-fledged national culture through all walks of life. During 13th century A.D. when Zen Buddhism entered Japan, their culture got a further boost. Though Japanese live in the coastal lowlands but their country contains long sea coasts, islands having mountains from where water in the form of stream tumbles down up to the sea making lakes, pools and rivers in between and a large part of the country as forest area, and all of these they imitate in the garden in a simple form but in essence and in harmony considering unity, balance, scale, proportion, symbolism and calm and not on their natural scale. Their gardens contain trees, especially pines, maples, Cryptomeria close to a garden monument, plums, bamboos and shrubs in proper natural shape so sometimes clipped and trained, summerhouses, simple buildings with tea houses for resting, pavilions for viewing or temples for contemplating, islands, running water, cascades, lily-pools, mountains or wooded hills, rocks, sands, unpainted woodwork, stone lanterns, pagodas, bridges, arbours, shrines, shelters, tortoises, cranes and Buddhas but without exotic views or plants which are neither seen or nor found in Japan, with proper attention to naturalness and aesthetic rules. At least six different rivers named Tamagawa are in Japan, each noted for a different flower that grows on its banks. Kerria japonica and Lespedeza bicolor near a shallow stream which will convey of that river if these are planted somewhere. Likewise, Arashyama Mountains near Kyoto are known for cherries in spring and reddening maples in autumn so if these are planted will remind of that mountain. Japanese gardens have consistency not found in the west. In the past, Japanese gardens were being classified into five types of oriental garden: i) the ‘flat garden’ which comprises of simple raked sand or gravel, a vertical or flat stone, a bamboo, a well, water basins of stone in the form of an urn, stepping stones, and prostrate growing trees; ii) the ‘dry garden’ or ‘sand garden’ comprising hills and stones in groups of two or three, the spaces among the stones filled with fine white gravel, raked gravels to simulate rippling water, in dry watercourses and channels similar to Chinese composition; iii) the ‘tea-house’ is enclosed by a rustic fence equipped with a gate made of light material such as bamboo, then the inner garden having benches for rest and water basins or wells or both at the gate, and then there is tea house where tea is served; iv) ‘hill and water garden’ comprising of a well-formed landscape of hills made with earth mounds and exposed weathered stones, a watercourse, a lake, bridges, islands, lantern, stepping stones over the walks and other stones, and trees (pines and 66 others) among rocks; and v) ‘passage garden’ is made on the narrow approaches Garden Designs – Types and to the houses and the passages between two houses by placing a few prostrate Styles rocks, stone slabs and by planting only a few centrally open and slender plants. It would be more appropriate to go on the chronological division as advocated by a Japanese writer recently based on ideas on garden composition to India which probably have come by Chinese through their studies of Buddhism in the 1st century A.D. ‘Dried up water scenery’ is created through dry river beds and lakes full of pebbles and stones as was garden of Ryoanji in Kyoto. In dry gardens sometimes even grasses and clipped hedges are also used. Muromachi period (A.D. 1325 to 1573) style also brought refinement and persisted further. Types of stones used in Japanese gardens are granite, red jasper, blue, white and yellow limestone, grey and green slates and volcanic stone with cavities. Generally, pebbles of granite, sandstone and flint as well as stepping stones are used for streams. The models for the gardens of the Japanese temples and monasteries even up to quite recent times was based on the historical associations of mountains, lakes and rivers related with the life and religion of Sakya Muni and when in the 6th century A.D., Buddhism reached Japan, the gardens were made at the early monasteries of Biodo-in at Uji and Todaiji and Kofukuji in Nara. Gardens existed in Japan before Buddhism reached there as through Matsunosuke Tatsui’s Japanese Gardens in 1934 it is mentioned that Japanese gardens may be traced to the era of Empress Suiko (A.D. 592-628). Nara period (A.D. 645-781) gardens had Chinese influence. Heian period (A.D. 781-1185) introduced ‘island garden’ mostly in the estates with garden pools and one or more islands of quiet waters of symbolic meaning. Island gardens were of four types: i) the Horai jima, the sea island with vegetation but without bridge, ii) the Fukije jima, the sea island without bridge and vegetation vis-à-vis windswept, iii) the Shujin-to, the ‘Master’s Island’ with arbour located in the foreground near the bank and connected with a bridge, and iv) the Kiakuju-to, the ‘Guest Island’ with most humble affair in the background. During Kamakura period (A.D. 1186-1393), again the garden design changed. The strengthening of religion that followed civil war caused the creation of gardens with Buddhist ideas of paradise. Now the major features of the Japanese gardens were stones, water and evergreens. When Renaissance in Italy was starting, in 1492 Columbus brought the news to Europe that by sailing west from Spain, new land could be traced and the subsequent exploration revealed the existence of quite new continents of north and south America, and at almost the same time but on the other side of the world, in Xipangu (Japan) the tea-house garden and the tour garden were evolving. Muromachi period was succeeded by Momoyama period (1573-1603) and thereafter by Yedo period (1603-1867) when many large castles were built and the ‘tea-house garden’ was given special emphasis. Finally the tea-house garden was developed in three parts: the small area where guest enters and after a short walk enters the middle garden, which in fact, is waiting area having sheltered bench, from where the hosts lead the guest into an inner garden via the path of stepping stones after a pause and meditation before proceeding to the inner garden. The inner garden containing the tea-house is a small enclosed area provided with water basin and stone lantern. Here guest washes his mouth, hands and takes out his footwear before entering the small building. It was this period when ‘tour garden’ also got place in the Japanese style. In tour garden, many pockets are accentuated to create viewpoints in the garden so that viewers are enticed to such pockets where they may stand for a while and enjoy the beauty of the nature and where they may be tempted to meditate. For such sceneries, the tour gardens are created looking beyond it to the distant backgrounds of mountains or hills (it is said as borrowed scenery in 67 Landscaping Japanese way of creations but in western countries borrowed scenery is that which seen somewhere outside and created in the garden) and the views themselves should be striking so that both in unison may create a beautiful view. Accents may also be created in terms of bridges (single stone slab, double stone slabs side by side, zigzag wooden bridges covered with Wisteria chinensis, bamboo or log bridges, and large wooden bridges with roofing or high arched style Chinese bridge); cascade (based on waterfalls e.g. ‘stepped fall’ or ‘spouting fall’; lakes; trees and shrubs around the banks of the lakes for concealing the outline vis-à-vis to hide the source of the waterfall to create an illusion; water basins for pure water at appropriate places; garden wells; stone lanterns (invented by Prince Iruhiko in 7th century A.D.), the sitting of the stone lantern being at the base of a hill, on an island, on the banks of the lake, near a well or at the side of the water basin, under an ancient tree not for lighting but just for its reflected beauty in the water or naturalness; stone pergolas 1.2-1.5 m high on water side for reflection in the pools or streams; sculptured Buddhas; effigies of tortoise or crane; summerhouses or arbours in the form of large umbrella; 4.5-6.0 m high thick hedges (Podocarpus macrophylla or Cryptomeria japonica, etc.) as boundary ; tea house gardens with clipped box hedge some 2.0 m high; two gateways (entrance and sweeping gateway); bonsai, etc.
In a nutshell, the features of Japanese gardens are the six types of gardens, viz., the flat garden; the dry garden; the tea-house garden; the hill and water garden; the passage garden; and the island garden. Certain literature sources, apart from the six described above mention certain other features such as tsukiyama hills; nosuji plains; and karesansui gardens. Other prominent features are Cottages (arbours and tea rooms); sculptured Buddhas; effigies of tortoise or cranes; stones and sand; Buddhist garden structure; pagodas; ponds or pools, lakes, and islands; waterfalls, cascades, streams and fountains; stone pergolas; garden paths; stepping stones, stones and flag-stones; bridges; fences; bamboo screens; hedges; garden gates; stone lanterns; water basins and wells; trees, other plants and mosses; bonsai; etc. Though all these features are defined above or elsewhere except tsukiyama hills, nosuji plains, karesansui gardens, cottages, Buddhist garden structures, and pagodas which are being described here with. Tsukiyama gardens are, in fact, creation of illusions of deep mountains and high peaks in miniature in the garden. Nosuji plains are normally created with gentle sloping fields when the gardens are near the residences. These fields are called nosuji plains. Karesansui gardens are the gardens with ‘water scenes without actual water’ as is found in Saihoji Temple Garden and the Ryoanji Temple Garden. This garden was popular in places where there was scarcity of water. This is combination of rocks with the natural scenery in the way which imitates waterfalls, streams, ponds, mountain paths, bridges, and sands as water. When the whole garden is not viewable from one point but can be viewed by making a round along the garden paths, some kind of cottages or summerhouses should be there equipped with waiting benches or stools, a rest house and the tea ceremony room. Buddhist garden structures are, in fact, the houses converted into the temples with provision of tea ceremony room or the temples having pavilions, in the process for creation of Buddhist paradise on earth. Pagodas are stone towers in the Japanese gardens with two, three, five or more separately roofed stages (multi-storeyed tower) slightly tapering towards the top. Though this structure is found in the Japanese gardens in the form of Buiddhist pagoda but has a decorative rather than a religious purpose.
68 Garden Designs – Types and Check Your Progress Exercise 2 Styles Note : a) Space is given below for answers. b) Compare your answer with that given at the end of the unit. 1) Out of all the styles, name six formal garden styles and three informal ones...... 2) What is difference between Persian gardens and Mughal gardens ? ......
2.3 LET US SUM UP
In this unit we have studied the types and styles of garden designs existing world over. The formal gardens are laid normally on even land while informal ones on the uneven land, especially on the hilly terrains. The Chinese and Persian gardens evolved quite early, the earliest one being the Chinese, and others developed afterwards one by one but with the invaders as wherever they moved they created the gardens there dismantling the existing ones. So when Persia was invaded, the idea of Persian style of gardens moved to other parts of the globe with the invaders that is why most of the countries are having influences of Persian garden styles, and all these gardens are of formal type. Chinese gardens are 3,000 years old but Japanese only some 1,200 years old as Japanese style is also a borrowed one from the Chinese style but with certain own characteristics. Chinese style also influenced the English style some 700 years ago. That is why all these thee gardens, viz., Chinese, Japanese and English gardens are of informal types. Garden is a place where one can enjoy the beauty of nature, can contemplate, can meditate in a quiet and secluded place, can breathe the fresh air and can attain tranquility.
2.4 KEY WORDS
American, Arabian, asymmetrical, Chinese, Egyptian, English, French, Garden, German, Italian, Japanese, Moorish, Mughal, Persian, Portuguese, Spanish, symmetrical, wild.
2.5 FURTHER REFERENCES 1) Brickell, Christopher (Ed.-in-Chief) (1994). The Royal Horticultural Society Encyclopedia of Gardening, Dorling Kindersley, London.
69 Landscaping 2) Cox, E. H. M. (1927). The Modern English Garden, Country Life, London. 3) Crowe, S. and Haywood, S. (1972). The Gardens of Mughal India, Thames and Hudson, London. 4) King, Ronald (1985). Great Gardens of the World, Peerage Books, London. 5) Laurie, Alex and Victor, H. Ries (1950). Floriculture – Fundamentals and Practices, McGraw-Hill Book Company, Inc., London. 6) Masson, G. (1961). Italian Gardens, Thames and Hudson, London. 7) Mori, Osamu (1962). Typical Japanese Gardens. Shibata Publishing Co., Ltd., Japan. 8) Siren, O. (1950). China and Gardens of Europe of the Eighteenth Century, Ronald Press, New York. 9) Villiers-Stuart, C. M. (1929). Spanish Gardens, Batsford, London. 10) Randhawa, G. S. and Mukhopadhyay, Amitabha (1986). Floriculture in India, Allied Publishers Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi. 2.6 ANSWERS TO CHECK YOUR PROGRESS EXERCISES
Check Your Progress Exercise 1 1) Formal gardens are designed in exact symmetrical (rectangular or square) shapes where little space is also valuable. In this garden, everywhere geometrical design is followed and almost everything runs in to straight lines – walls, hedges, edging, beds and so on. The axis divides it into two equal parts, and whatever features are created to one side, the replica of the same is created to the other side. Its creation is easy but maintenance part is labour-intensive. 2) Wild gardens were expounded in the last decade of 19th century by William Robinson. His idea for wild garden was to grow native species in natural associations of wild plants so that it may more closely imitate the nature but to check the rampant growth of the plants some maintenance is required so that it may not turn messy. Check Your Progress Exercise 2 1) The examples of three informal styles of gardens are Chinese gardens, English gardens and Japanese gardens whereas six formal styles of gardens are Persian, Egyptian, Mughal, Spanish, French and Italian gardens. 2) The difference between Persian gardens and Mughal gardens are ‘baradari’, ‘boundary wall’, ‘gate’ and ‘tomb’ which are found only in Mughal gardens and not in the Persian gardens.
70 Garden Designs – Types and UNIT 3 ROCK GARDEN, WATER GARDEN Styles AND INDOOR GARDEN
Structure 3.0 Objectives 3.1 Introduction 3.2 Development of Rock garden, Water garden & Indoor garden 3.2.1 Rock Gardens 3.2.1.1 What is a Rock Garden ? 3.2.1.2 Different type of Rocks and Stones used for Rock – Garden 3.2.1.3 Ancient Rock – Garden 3.2.1.4 Setting of Rocks to Develop Rock- Garden 3.2.1.5 Planning of Rock Setting 3.2.1.6 Development of Terraces on Rock – Garden 3.2.1.7 Waterfall on Rock – Garden 3.2.1.8 Media for Rock – Garden 3.2.1.9 Plantation of wall Shrubs and Climbers on Different Structure of Rock Gardens 3.2.1.10 Formation of Peat wall and its Plantation 3.2.1.11 Alpine Lawns of Rock – Garden 3.2.1.12 Paved Area, Paths and Sunken Gardens 3.2.1.13 Stone Sinks 3.2.1.14 Rock Garden Plants 3.2.2 Water gardens 3.2.2.1 Sight Selection for Water Garden 3.2.2.2 Shape of Water Garden 3.2.2.3 Size of Water Garden 3.2.2.4 Depth of the Water Garden Pond 3.2.2.5 Time of Construction of Water Garden Pond 3.2.2.6 Treatment of Water Garden Pond 3.2.2.7 Shape of Water Pond 3.2.2.8 Material for Water Garden Pond 3.2.2.9 Waterfalls and Fountains 3.2.2.10 Stepping stones in Water Garden Pool 3.2.2.11 Bog Garden 3.2.2.12 Planting 3.2.2.13 Stocking Exigency 3.2.2.14 Scavengers 3.2.2.15 Recommended Plants for Water Garden 3.2.3 Indoor Gardens 3.2.3.1 Problems of Indoor Garden 3.2.3.2 Type of Containers for Indoor Gardening 3.2.3.3 Soil / Media for Indoor Garden Containers 3.2.3.4 Planting for Indoor Gardens 3.2.3.5 Watering to Indoor Gardens 71 Landscaping 3.2.3.6 Application of Fertilizer to Indoor Garden plants 3.2.3.7 Maintenance of Indoor Garden 3.3 Let Us Sum Up 3.4 Key Words 3.5 Further References 3.6 Answers to Check Your Progress Exercises 3.0 OBJECTIVES
After going through this unit, you will be in position to: study about Rock-garden, Water garden and Indoor gardens, learn how to develop Rock garden, Water garden and Indoor garden, study about different structures of Rock-garden, Water garden and Indoor garden, learn use of soil media in these gardens beds, study different type of materials used to develop Rock garden, Water garden and Indoor garden, learn about different type of plants and bushes used to develop Rock garden Water garden and Indoor garden, and Study flowering plants for Rock garden, Water garden and Indoor garden. 3.1 INTRODUCTION
Rock-garden and water gardens are very attractive features of landscape gardening and indoor gardens are inside landscaping of a house. The Rock- gardens are developed with the help of different type of rocks and stones with different ornamental plants, water garden is develop in open with the help of water pond and different type of water plants, while indoor gardens are developed with the help of foliage plants, climbers plants, flowering plants and cacti and succulents inside the house. To develop rock garden and water garden we have to raise different type of structure to make these garden attractive. All the features of these gardens project an attractive landscaping.
In rock garden, we can create a cool or cheerful effects by using of different type of stones in combination with plants. For instance, a Rock garden made with red and yellow sandstone and scarves covered with the bright green leaves and grey flowers of the Saxifrage family would be a warming sight on a sunny day in spring. If we are setting a greyish sandstone in large slaps and interplanting it with dark green conifers and evergreen shrubs, a distinctly sombre scene would be created.
3.2 DEVELOPMENT OF ROCK GARDEN, WATER GARDEN AND INDOOR GARDEN
These gardens are very important parts of landscape gardening. Every garden have different features and structures which we will discuss individually for each type of garden. 72 3.2.1 Rock Garden Rock Garden, Water Garden and Indoor Garden You have seen ornamental plants growing on rock. This is known as rock-garden or rock landscaping Rock garden generally developed with the help of rock and different type of ornamental plants to make them attractive.
3.2.1.1 What is a Rock Garden ?
When a garden is developed or rock or with the help of different type of natural rocks and beautiful ornamental plants of different types, is known as “Rock- garden”. Like other gardens features, Rock-garden is also consist of different type of features which make it attractive.
3.2.1.2 Different Type of Rocks and Stones used for Rock Garden
To develop a Rock garden we used different type of stones or rocks and ornamental plants material to make it attractive. These stones may be natural, artificial or wasted one. The stones are of different type, shape and structure. Some of them are described below one by one: i) Limestones : These stones are often favoured for Rock-garden and these have different type of colour. Some are gray, other yellow or brown, just as sandstone may be anything from yellow to red or green. Kentish rag from the lower green sand beds have good colour. It show varying degree or stratification, which makes them easy to layout. ii) Port Land Stone : It is fit to develop good look. In it quite a seasonable colour can be developed by staining cement with a solution of iron sulphate and by making your own rocks. In this case you can any develop shape and size by making your own mould. iii) Sandstones : These stones show varying degrees of form, which make them easy to layout. Generally, in designing rock gardens, the rock are laid as though they formed part of a natural outcrop, and this is good system to follow. iv) Tufa : Tufa which weathers to a dark grey and is a soft absorbent rock like punic stone. It can be replaced by “hypertufa”. It is a good home for plants like the mossy saxifrages, but it is expensive. A substitute may be made by mixing too parts peat, with one part each of sand and cement (all by bulk). Mixed this material properly before water is added. It is usually best to mix the water in until a thick cream cement is formed. A special mould is prepared by digging large holes in the garden soil and lining them with large rock or stones. Now the thick cream cement which you have prepared, should be poured into these large holes made in garden. This is your “hypertufa” stone developed by you self. When this “hipertufa” has dried the other stones may be knocked out easily with a hammer or left. Pockets for plants can be cut with a chisel. When the mixture of cement is prepared for mould, Cement colorants can be mixed, in it when making the ‘hypertufa, to look attractive in different colour to use in Rock garden. v) Granite Stone : It was used in the Victorian era, for rock-gardens. Although it is expensive, its crystalline qualities make it attractive. It again become popular with changing fashions in design. 73 Landscaping vi) Local Rock : In the ancient time, a lot of nonsense is talked about the importance of obtaining rocks which fit in the garden with local rock. Unless the local rock formations are visible with your garden, this would hardly seem to matter. In this case most important is the fact that if you obtain rock from some longer distance away the piece per ton is likely to be three or four times as high as it would normally be to pay for transporting it. A ton of local stone have more weight and not enough for a small rock garden development while a ton of sandstone would be enough for a small rock garden. Remember that the volume of a ton of local Rock will vary, same volume of some limestones will be twice as heavy as sandstone.
3.2.1.3 Ancient Rock Garden
In former times rock gardens were conceived in the form of structure with running water and Ferny niches. In the early 1900 greater interest started to be shown in simulating the actual conditions of alpine regions to provide suitable conditions for the growth of alpine plants. Your choice will probably reflect your approach: that of a gardener seeking to add another feature to the garden to contrast with the flat lawn or to act as a local points.
3.2.1.4 Setting of Rocks to Develop Rock Garden
Now we will discuss about the setting of rocks for garden development. To develop Rock garden, setting of rocks is a essential and difficult part of garden. It depends on the shape of garden soil where it will be developed. Some methods, how to set the rocks are described below :
i) Setting of Rock on Sloping garden land : If you have a sloping land to develop a rock garden, to set the rocks on such land is not easy, to make a rock garden. The rocks should themselves slop back words so that the rain falling on them runs back into the ground and not down the hill. The main reason for the slop in a rock-garden is to develop the extra drainage needed by many rock plants, and this can be obtained without either rock or a scope by making a raised bed, using concrete slabe. If you have a garden sloping towards the south you have the ideal site.
Setting of Stones for Rock Garden 74 ii) Setting of Rocks on Flat Garden Land : If you have a flat land to Rock Garden, Water Garden develop Rock-garden, it is easy to set rock of flat land. The easiest procedure and Indoor Garden to set the rock on flat land is to dig out the hole to make both a mound for the rock garden and a site for a pool at the same time. It is also quite workable to build a rock-garden on the flat with long flat pieces of stone sloping slightly upwards. Interspersed with an occasional tall conifers of the cypress family, a fine horizontal and vertical effect can be obtained in the Rock garden.
3.2.1.5 Planning of Rock setting
Planning of rock setting in the Rock gardens will depend on the shape of rocks and the number available. A large number of flat stones will enable you to set one on top of the other with gaps and space for smaller stones and soil in the style of an outcrop.
If you have smaller number of block-shaped stones, it will be a simple matter to set them out like wall to form small compartmented terraces of soil.
If you are including a pool in the design of Rock garden you may like to incorporate a water course together with a submerged pump, to pump water from a pool on a lower level to one on a higher level. Such system will require an electricity supply to work the pump and main water supply to keep up the level of water lost by evaporation.
3.2.1.6 Development of Terraces on Rock Garden
To build terraces on Rock garden you have the basic requirements for constructing a scree. A scree is a simple pile of broken rocks and soon at the foot of a steep cliff. It is ideal for certain alpine plants which require dry conditions where they meet the soil. i) Soil media for Terraces beds of Rock Garden : Dig out the beds of Terraces about 1-2 feet of soil and put in a layer of small rocks at the bottom a few inches thick for water drainage. Above this layer lay some fibrous material such as sphagnum peat mass to prevent topsoil penetrating the drainage area, and then cover this with a top layer of chippings, gravels, peat, loam and finally broken down leaf mould. The stone chippings gravels in these beds should form four fifth of the total bulk.
3.2.1.7 Waterfall on Rock Garden
If you are developing a water fall or running water in your rock garden, you can also built a moraine which is simply a pile of stones at the foot of the glacier, on which several fine-flowering plants can survive or grow easily. The moraine is similar to the scree / mud except that the bottom of the excavated area halfway up the side are lined with pudding clay or cement to make an underground lake. An outlet for water is made at the lower end of the lake a few inches above the level of the bottom, and layers laid down as above for the scree/ mud. Water in let in at the upper end of the scope. It is important not to try to grow lime- hatching plants in a moraine or scree made with limestones chippings.
75 Landscaping 3.2.1.8 Media for Rock Gardens The soil or media for rock garden is best to made of – four parts loam; two parts humus, two part grift. The best loam is made of properly matured fibrous turves, but for most gardeners purpose it may be thought of a good garden soil with both good drainage and moisture retaining constituents (sand clay). The humus may be provided by peat, compost or leaf-mould. The grift should be sharp (not builder’s sands).
On the surface of soil you can use of plenty of loose granite, limestone chippings, form attractive appearance, keep down weeds and help to retain moisture. Chipping should be added to screens and wherever there are poor-soil loving plants.
3.2.1.9 Plantation of Wall Shrubs and Climbers on Different Structure of Rock Gardens
It is a very important part of a rock garden to make it attractive. It is not necessary to plant the rock garden at the same time when it is going to be constructed. This is usually inconvenient. It is better to plants the ornamental plants after the construction work is over. It is better that Rock garden be constructed in the autumn so that spring flowering plants will have time to settle in ready form in the coming season. The plantation scheme for rock garden is given below :
i) Construction of dry stone wall and plantation : In the rock garden, walls for edging or for raised beds or low retaining walls, you can built of large stones or coloured paving slabs and it can form a warm looking feature of any garden. The height of the wall should be about four feet with loos construction, which is held together only by the soil and on which, the roots of plants can grow in it.
It wall is more than four feet high, for extra height a retaining wall can be built with terrace bed forming wide steps. A foundation trench should be excavated to a depth of about 9 inches and filled with rubbles well rammed down and topped with a layer of ashes or soil. In the retaining wall, the stones should be laid titling back slightly so that their weight partly rests against the ground behind. For raised beds two or three feet wide stones can be laid vertically with a step of half an inch or an inch between each layer. Sandstone wall look attractive but you can also use the rough-faced bricks made of stone composition for a low dry wall. Follow the pattern of bonding seen in brickwork as it makes for greater strength and use a soil mixture for the “mortar” of 3- part fibrous loam, 1- part peat and 1- part sand. You will found no difficulty to incorporate any rock plants in it, to plant, as soon as you build the wall. There should be plenty of soil behind the wall and keep it moist.
At the time of plantation, leave some gape for the plants to expand and place for one you would like to add when they become obtainable.
The following plants are suitable to plants on dry stone walls. These plants are – Arabis, Campanula, Alyssum, Dianthus, Gypsophila, Hypericum, Phlox, Subulata, Sedum, Zauschneria californica (Californian fuchsia) and Sempervicum etc.
76 Rock Garden, Water Garden and Indoor Garden
Rock Garden with Bulbous Flowers
Rock Garden
3.2.1.10 Formation of Peat wall and its Plantation
If in your soil alkaline contents are high a peat-wall of some kind is essential, if you want to grow lime-hating plants. Peat-wall consist of block of peat which are built up like bricks. The blocks are held to gatler with a mixture of 2-part of leaf mould or peat and one part each of lime free loam and sharp sand. The blocks can be built up to form raised beds or rock garden terraces and its maximum height from two feet should not be exceeded. However, terraces builts in steps can reach much higher than this.
It is good to adopt a pyramidal method of building by setting back each layer of block from the one below. The terraces or cavities behind the locks can be field with a soil mixture similar to the above or add more leaf- mould and peat if desired. In areas where the tap water is chalky the beds must be watered with rain water. Species suitable for such places are included many of those from the following genera.
Arcterifa, Arctospaphylos, Cyclamen, Cassiope, Calluna, Deboecia, Erica, Gentiana, Kalmiopsis, Leucothoii, Laveisia, Ourisia, Phlox, Prymula, 77 Landscaping Rholodendron, Shortia, Tanakaea, Vaccinium etc.
3.2.1.11 Alpine lawns of Rock Garden
Paving plants are often suited to alpine lawns which are simply places where low-growing flowers or creeping plants form a carpet, which may adjoin the rock garden or even form part of it. They may have stepping stones or rocks interspersed through them and the ground may be sloping or flat low-growing bulbs will make colourful sight in spring. These bulbs are- Narsissus bulbocodium, or Crocus, Scilla and Puschkivia etc. For autumn you can use bulbs of crocus, Colchicum and Cyclamen neapolitanum with its marbled foliage and pink flowers. In larger lawn you can grow few bigger flower upto a foot and one or two dwarfish shrubs. Strictly speaking an alpine lawn has no grass and the bulbs. Larger flowers appear through a carpet of low-growing alpine plants.
3.2.1.12 Paved Areas, Paths and Sunken Gardens
Paved area, path or sunken garden are also associated with Rock gardens. These are often home of creeping plants between Crazy paving or paving stones. To develop it, a foundation of rubble is first rammed down which cover with sand. Old brinks, paving stones, precast slabs etc. may be used singly or left with gaps and cracks to accommodate the plants. The places where planting are made should have some suitable sandy - compost. Creeping Jenny (Chysimachia nummularia and Cotoneaster horizontalis) low growing shrubs, are excellent for larger paved area. Many other rock plants can grow under these conditions.
3.2.1.13 Stone Sinks
A miniature rock garden which require less attention can be created in as old- fashioned stone sink. It can be set in a bank raised beds which is supported on stone pillars or like a tub. The plug hole should be kept open with crocks. A layer of crocks set in the bottom. It should be covered with sphagnum peat to prevent over drainage. Fill it up with compost and plant dwarf conifers and low-growing alpine plants and set rocks among these plants or develop it into a miniature “willow-pattern’ garden.
3.2.1.14 Rock Garden Plants
A list of low growing hardy plants, bulbs and alpine plants found under green houses are given below. Colourful dwarf conifers selected Juniperus, Cryptomaria, Picea and Thuja etc., dwarf and low growing shrubs forms of Betula, Berberis, Daphne, Erica, Gaultheria, Rhododendron, Salix, Skimmia, Sorbus, Teucrium, Vaccinium etc. When you are choosing plants for Rock-garden be carefull, these does not take too much nourishment from the Alpine or become too big for the size of your rock garden. Most of the plants below establish themselves as perennials.
i) Rock Jasmine (Androsae) : It is a perennial forms, A. lanuginosa-bears pink flowers, trailing leaves, 6 inches, easy one to try for rock garden.
ii) Bell Flowers (Companula) : A popular plant grow well if given the well- drained position in sun or pastial shade. C. carpatica - with blue, violet, white etc. flower, 6-12 inches in summer, spread easily. 78 iii) Armeria (Thrift) : A sandy soil suited them. A. moritima, flower Red- Rock Garden, Water Garden Pink, 6 inches, early summer; A. caespitosa-is a good plant for a scree, and Indoor Garden flowers lilac – pink, 2 inches, Jun-July. iv) Geranium (Crane’s Bill) : The dwarf forms are easily grown in sunny, well-drained position, G. cenerium - produce pink or white flower in summer, size 3-inches. v) Dianthus : A few species of this genus are suitable for rock garden. They like sun, D. alpines - produce rose colour flower; D. deltoides, dark-crimson, white etc. flower, known as Maiden – pink. vi) Linaria (Toad floax) : The purple golden – tipped flowers of L. alpina, appears in spring. Easily raised from seed. vii) Helianthemum (Sun Rose) : It has large number of varieties which produce, yellow scarlet flowers. Mixed colour may be obtain from open seed good ground cover for dry, sunny spots. viii) Dryas (Mountain Avens) : A mat-forming plant with attractive leaves and white strawberry- like flowers. ix) Sedum : Useful plants for hot dry bare places. It can easily propagated by division. S. spurium – produce carmine flowers in autumn and pleasant rather warm looking, cappery – red and green foliage. x) Primula (Primrose) : A wide range of verities of plant requiring different conditions. P. rosea, var. “Grondiflora”, rose conrmine flowers, 6 inches, spring flowering, rich moist loam in Semi-shade. There are many fine hybrids of there and other species, good for Rock-gardens. xi) Oxalis : It is good for rock-garden, O. enneaphylla - has pink or snow white flowers, 2-inches, spring flowering. A plant for partial shade. xii) Rannunculus : R. amplexcaulis, large white butter cup flowers, 8 inches, spring to early summer flowering. R. gramineaus, -golden yellow flower, 6-12 inches. These are easy to grow in moist soil. xiii) Thymus : This fragrant herb has a number of species which can grown in hot sunny places. They form mats of delicate leaves and small flowers are prolific in summer. ‘Silver Queen’ has variegated foliage. xiv) Veronica (Speed well) : V. prostrata, blue flowers, 6 inches, summer trailing. There are several varieties in different shades.
Beside these flowering plants, there are several other also like – Sempervivum, Ramonda; Pulsatilla; Saxifrage, Ponstemon; Potentilla; Achillea, Gentiana; Candytufts etc can grow easily in rock gardens.
Check Your Progress Exercise 1 Note : a) Space is given below for answers. b) Compare your answer with that given at the end of the unit. 1) What is a Rock – Garden ? 79 Landscaping ...... 2) What are the different type of stone used in Rock Garden ? ...... 3) Describe the media used for Rock Garden plants...... 4) Name any five flowering plants grown in Rock Garden...... 3.2.2 Water Gardens
Now we will discuss about the water garden. You must have seen plants growing in water ponds. It is known as water garden. Water garden adds a new dimension to any garden. Its ever-changing face reflects the open sky and the passing clouds. Its surface ripples gently in the wind or is troubled by the playing of a fountain, while beneath the surface, in the transparent depth, the gold, red, and orange gleams of gold fish flash as they move dreamily among the water lily stems, in an attractive water garden.
A water garden is such a distinct feature of the any type garden, that its placing in the total garden plan require considerable care. However, the needs of the water pond itself do much to determine where it may or may not go. Water plants really need planty of light to flourish and so do fish. 80 Rock Garden, Water Garden and Indoor Garden
Water Garden
3.2.2.1 Sight selection for Water Garden
Selection of sight to develop water garden, should always be away from the trees, because rotting of leaves which fall in the water from nearby trees and vegetation is likely to poison the fish in the water pond. The natural position for a pond is at the lowest level of the garden so that the surface is always visible. Whether the water pond is to be formal or informal, it is best to site it as a focal point in the garden. Shelter in the water garden can be provided by planting of tall evergreen waterside plants on the north side. Marginal plants will provide some shade as fish require, although they need the light, fishes in the water pond do not like direct sun all day.
3.2.2.2 Shape of Water Garden
Water garden pond should be of geometrical shape or irregular in outline, depends on the general garden design. For formal water pond, the oval or hexagonal may be just as pleasing as square, rectangular or round ones. A cross shape pool would have a functional advantages for those who wanted to breed different types of fish in different part of the pool. The profile of pool in depth may include edges of pool for marginal plants.
3.2.2.3 Size of Water Garden Size of water garden, depend on the garden size where it is to be developed but water area of the pond should be as large as possible. Giant sized plastic washing bowls can be used to make miniature water garden for specialized purpose. Such as growing a particular plant, but for all practical purpose size of water garden is important because most aquatic plants are rampant and nothing is worse than to see a pond over crowded with plants with no open surface area to act as a background to the foliage and flowers. It will give a clear view of the fishes and reflection of the sky. In addition, the smaller the pool the greater will be the fluctuation in water temperature. 3.2.2.4 Depth of the Water Garden Pond
Depth of the water garden pond is also an important factor to develop a water garden. A shallow pond will make difficult for fish to escape excessive summer 81 Landscaping heat or intense cold in winter. Some aquatic plants also will not grow properly in shallow water pond. A considerable proportion of the pond should be at least 24 inches deep. But for development of water lilies and fish it should be more. If you are constructing edges of pool for marginal instead of supporting them on blocks in containers, part of the pond may be half that depth.
3.2.2.5 Time of Construction of Water Garden Pond
The best time for construction of composition lined or plastic pool for garden is in the early spring, which will allow the plants to settle into the pool as they start their vigorous growth. However for concrete pond frost free autumn weather is best. Filled up the pond with water and left over winter. Fill the empty pond several times over period of several days so that any free lime from the cement, which would otherwise poison both plants and fish, is leached out.
3.2.2.6 Treatment of Water Garden Pond
Treat the concrete pond with a ‘Curing’ solution which will prevent further lime from leaking in the Pond. This period would also expose leaks which must be discovered before plantation. However, plastic and composition liners are now so reliable and durable that, unless there is some very special reason. These are chipper and less labour involved in construction then that of concrete constructed pool.
3.2.2.7 Shape of Water Ponds
The shapes of formal pond can be marked out according to the space available. An irregular shape pond can be created by using a length of hosepipe to make the shape. The hosepipe can be laid in attractive curves. Pegs can then be used to stake out the design. When digging the hole, turf or soil around the perimeter of the future pool must be removed. Crazy paving or paving stones are generally laid so that the edges of the stone protrude slightly over the pool to hide its plastics. Gaps between the stones can be filled with low-growing rock plants. Use a spirits level and boards to make sure that all edges are level.
3.2.2.8 Material for Water Garden Ponds
The following materials are require for a water garden ponds:
i) Laminated Reinforced Nylon PVC : The most expensive of in all materials are strong enough to support water in a pool of almost any size. It could be constructed by welding the edges together. You can use cheaper materials in this range would be suitable for pools upto 100 square feet size. For example a pool of 9 feet by 6 feet by 18- inch would require a piece of plastic 9- feet by 12 feet.
Remove any protruding objects in the exceed hole, lined with sand, stretch the material with a slight sag in middle over the using the edging stone to hold it in place, then allow the water to run in gently.
ii) Butyl : It is the most long-lasting and elastic, but also most expensive of the flexible materials. It is generally used for unusually shaped ponds as it does not wrinkle. 82 iii) Polythene : It is less long-lasting than the materials mentioned above. Its Rock Garden, Water Garden pools should not be drained, as this exposes the polythene to the weather for and Indoor Garden longer period, cause a rapid deterioration to the polythene sheeting. However, it is cheapest buy, and is best suited to formal pools of regular shape. It does not stretch much. Use double thickness 500 grade and allow a shallow 30° gradient to the sides. Allow on overlap of 12 inches all round on the edges so that the edges can be flooded over when weighted down. iv) Preshaped Plastic Liners : These are purpose made and may be either dug to the dimensions for which they are designed. The rigid ones are more expensive and about four time more the price of some of the more flexible liners. They may be made in sections which can be fitted together in all short of shapes and size. It is possible to make rigid plastic liners in the excavated hole using polyester resins and hardeners.
Link Ponds of Water Garden. The first large pond uses polythene and other smaller ponds is a concrete one.
3.2.2.9 Waterfalls and Fountains
These are easily made using modern pumps designed for underwater or Pond side operation. The earth taken out for making a pool for water garden, is often piles up to make a Rock-garden in which the above mentioned rigid liners may be incorporated to make a series of lakes. The same pump will send water from the pool into Rock-garden, and emit a jet through a fountain and to the waterfall. It can be operated by physically turning off the fountain or the water-fall. Waterfall should be constructed in such a way that they do not involve too much movement in the body of the pool, as not all plants like moving water, particularly water lilies.
3.2.2.10 Stepping stones in Water Garden Pool
If your water garden pool is large enough, stepping stones of concrete or natural stones are a pleasant feature for water garden. These steps must be used to make sure that they are safe to walk on and do not damage the plastic lining of pool. Nothing look better in water than stones or ornamentation. The choice is wide, some ornaments including fountains or flowing water etc.
83 Landscaping 3.2.2.11 Bog Garden
These gardens are also a part of water garden. When constructed the pond, allow a slight over lap at one point leading to a bog garden. It may be that in an irregularly shaped pool, instead of trimming the plastic away, it could be allowed to continue into the Bog-garden. It does not matter if the Bog-garden leak a little in fact it should, provided there is a moist sump into which water from the pool can overflow. Bog plants like moisture but they do not want to be drowned.
Bog Garden (Rock Garden)
3.2.2.12 Planting
The best time of planting the aquatic plants in the pool is spring or early summer. They do not needs anything, but for root development they require loam, compost, leaf mould, manure, peat and sand. This medium adversely affects the water transparency in the pool. To meet this problem, now plastic containers like basket with perforated sides are available for aquatic plants plantation. It has four corner holes in which you can plant two aquatic plants, one on either side and suspending the container over the pool. It is possible to lower it at the deepest part of water pool without accidents with the help of stringing. These container field with root media for plant growth, plants firmly, ramming the soil around the roots to prevent it being washed away and cover the soil with a layer of clean gravels or pebbles. You should check that you have the right depth of the soil for the roots and right depth of water for plant.
3.2.2.13 Stocking Exigency
It is essential to leave the newly planted pool of water garden for about three to four weeks, for establishment of plants, before introducing fishes in the pool. If the fishes are introduced at the same time as the plants, then the plants may not get settle down and fish can harm then. You are aiming to develop a balanced pool, and once you have the pond stocked with the right types of plants and fishes in the right quantities, the problems such as algae and green water should disappear. It should never be necessary to change the water of a healthy pool of water garden. When you are going to introduced fish in the pool of water garden, keep in mind that one square foot of water is enough for every two inch fish. 84 For example if your pool is 10 feet by 6 feet, equal to 60 sq feet and can Rock Garden, Water Garden accommodate 120 fishes of one inches and 30 fishes each of four inches long. and Indoor Garden
Golden and other colour Fishes in water Garden Pool
Select the fish according to your taste, but avoid at all costs including cat fish, Perch or Pike and other predators, or Tidlers, from local ponds which may carry diseases. When buying the fishes do not put then straight into the pool of the water garden from the container, as the violent temperature change could kill them. Lay the container in the water pool for few hour and them make the change over. Avoid overfeeding. Hardly feed at all in cold weather. Use a thermostat heater worked from the mains, which will keep the pond at an even temperature without ice completely covering the pool. Cover the pool of water garden in autumn with a wire net or Agro net to keep leaves of plants from falling in the pool.
Goldfish is the name given to selected strains of fish of gold or similar colour. Apart from the true Red-gold ‘Goldfish’ many fancy colour strains of fishes such as black, silver, Red or yellow have also have been available. Other types includes Comets (longtail), Colicos (fantails) and Nymphs (round bodies) are also attractive. Other fishes which are safe to introduce include Golden and Silver orfe, Golden and Silver Rudd and Tench.
3.2.2.14 Scavengers
Goldfishes and other decorative fishes are not purely decorative in that they contribute to the health of pool by scavenging. However, it would not do any harm to introduce a few water snails, about a dozen for a new pool. A pool which has accumulated a fair amount of Muck on the bottom is the ideal place for Tench, which feed on scraps that fall to the bottom. Once introduced, the tench are never seen near the surface again.
3.2.2.15 Recommended Plants for Water Garden
Aquatic plants for water garden have been divided into four groups. These groups are submerged oxygenating plants, floating plants, deep marginals plants, marginal plants, Bog plants group. All these groups of plants are described below one by one: 85 Landscaping i) Submerged Oxygenating Plants : These plants are generally multiplied by cuttings and may be put in a containers for multiplication. It can be planted anywhere on the bottom of the pool of water garden. Some of them are described below: Ancharis Canadensis (Water thujme) : It is a Canadian pond weed or American pondweed. It has dark green mass, brittle stem, check uncontrolled development. Ceratophyblum olemersum (Horn-wort) : It has dark-green bristle- like leaves, handle with care and plant in deepest part of the pool. Egeria Densa (Syn. Elodea Densa) : A dark green plant often found in indoor gardens, slightly tender in structure. Lagarosiphon Major (syn. Elodea Cripsa): It has long stems with leaves that curl backwards. Myrriophyllum Spicatum (Water milfoil) : It has delicate- looking leaves and stem, found in fresh-water in Britain, India etc. Ranunculus Aqualitis (Water Crow fool) : Its foliage and white butter cup-shaped flowers reach to the surface. ii) Water Lilies : A wide range of brilliant hybrids of water lilies are available, flowering from June to September. There hybrids varying considerably in vigor used them accordingly which will are suit to the pools. Some are miniature type which can grow in a few inches of water, other needs four to five feet of water to flourish. They need special care when fixing the roots in their pots. The white floating roots are old anchorage roots and these should be cut off. The young feeding roots are black and fibrous. They should be kept and planted firmly in the moist soil. Tubrous types should be inserted in the soil horizontally with the crown just above the soil of pool of water garden. Place plenty of gravel, pebbles and even heavy stones over the soil to keep lily from floating upwards. Place containers of lily plants on blocks height in the water and gradualy lover it by removing the blocks, as the stem developed. Water lilies may be thinned out by removing unwanted clumps with a knife. Propagate these lilies from the “eyes” taken from the roots in spring. There is a large range in lilies, some of them described below with requirement of water depth in the water garden pool : Red Attraction: Deep red, large flowers, edges white, plant 18 inches to 2 feet or more deep water pool. Escarboucle : Brilliant red flowers, large and prolific, very popular, plant in 10 inches to 2 feet deep water. James Brydon : Cormine flowers, purple leaves, becoming green, stands shade, plant in 18 inches to 2 feet deep water. Layde Keri Hybrids: Red, purple, carmine, rose, flowers, plant in 3- 18 inches deep water. Pink “MME wilfrom Gonnere” : Fine beautiful pink flowers, fully shaped with many-petalled, plant in 18 inches to 2 feet deep water. Nymphaea Odorata (Turicensis) : Fragrant rose colour flowers, plant in 1 feet to 18 inches deep water.
86 N. adorate “Sulphurea” : Soft yellow star-shaped flowers, held well Rock Garden, Water Garden above the water, plant in 3 to 18 inches deep water. and Indoor Garden N. candida : Small white flowers with red stigma, not vigorous, plant in 3-18 inches deep water. Pygmaea, Helvola : A true miniature type with delicate yellow flowers, plant in 3 to 12 inches deep water etc. iii) Floating Plants : These plants require no containers for plantation and are placed on surface of the pond of water garden. Some time these plants sink at first but rise to the surface again. They are very valuable for water garden pond because they reduce algae and provide vegetation for the fishes to nibble. About four plants are sufficient for a pool of 9 x 6 feet. These plants are different type some of them are described below. Azolla Caroliniana (Fairy Moss) : It has green many fronds changing to red and brown at the end of summer, needs over-watering in frost- free conditions but invasive in summer. Hydrocharis Morsusranaea (Frogbit) : It has water-lily-like leaves, white flowers in July-August, the plant sinks in winter but comes to the surface again in spring. Stratiotes Aloides (Water Soldier) : It has spiky dark green leaves, while flowers, also rest at bottom in winter. iv) Deep Marginal Plants : Beside water lilies, there are a number of other decorative plants for water garden which produce floating leaves and their flowers appear above the surface of water. These can be planted in containers under 6-18 inches of water. About two such plants are enough for a water garden pool of 9 x 5 feet. Some of them are given below: Aponogetem Distachyum (Water hawthron) : It has oblong dissected leaves, white fragrant flowers from spring onwards, plant in 15-18 inches deep water. Hottonia Palustris (Water Voilet) : It is some time placed among sub-merged oxygenators because the finely divided foliage remain below the surface of the pond. It produced lilac or white flowers about one foot above the surface of water garden pond in summer season. It overwinters on the bottom in the mud. Plant in 6-18 inches deep of water. Nymphoides Peltala (Water Fringe) : It has floating water-lily like leaves, fringed yellow flowers in summer. Plant in 6-18 inches of deep water. Orantium Aquaticum (Golden Club) : It has broad bluish- green leaves, golden yellow tipped flowers spekes in spring, roots must be lodged deep in soil so it cannot be grown at the edge of sloping sides. Plant in 6-18 inches deep water. v) Marginal Plants : This group include a wide range of water plants including some highly decorative rushes and sedges and can be grown at the margin of pond. Plant these in about 3 inches of soil in shallow containers with about 3 inches of water above the top of container. About ten such plants 87 Landscaping will be enough for a pool of 9 ft. X 6 ft. Some plants of this group are described below: Caltha Palustris “Plena” (King cup, Marsh Marigold) : It has dark- green wavy leaves, rich double golden flowers; 6-9 inches; wet soil to 3 inches of water over the crown. Calula Coronopifolia (Brass Buttons) : It has smooth green leaves, long lasting bright yellow flowers, long growing, wet soil to 3 inches deep water. Cyperus Longus (Sweet Galingale) : It has rusty leaves up to four feet, dark brown flowers in summer, wet soil to 3 inches of water. Glyceria Aquatica “Variegata” (Manna Grass, Reed Grass) : It has thin strap - like leaves striped green and gold, 18 inches or more deep water. Iris : This large genus provides several beautiful water plants. Some of which should be in every pool of water garden. I. kaempferi - with huge flowers of orchid like quality, I. laevigata : I. pseudacorus- I- sibrica etc. All bloom from spring to summer. Mimubus Guttatus (Monkey Musk) : It has perfoliated leaves, brownish - red - spotted flowers in summer, wet soil to 3 inches. Myosotis Palustris (Water Forget - me - not) : It has bright blue flowers, low-growing, wet soil to 3 inches. Pontederia Cardala (Pickered Weed) : It has heart - shaped leaves and blue flowers spikes, 18 inches or more. Ranunculus Lingua “Grandiflorus” (Great Spearwort) : It has narrow leaves, butter cup - like flowers, 2 ft. or more water in pool. Typha Latifolia (Great Reed Mace) : It has rush - like, bearing brown spikes upto a foot - long; 6 ft. or more.
vi) Bog Plants : Most of the above marginals plants can be treated as bog garden plants. But Iris Kaempferi and the marh marigold are specially suitable for growing in Bog-gardens. These are many other plants which can be grown in Bog garden. Some of them are described below: Aconitum napellus (Mankes hood) : It has divided leaves, purple, blue flowers, in early summer, reaching 3 ft. or more. Cardamine Pratense (Lady’s Smock, Cuckoo Flower) : It produce pretty Lilae or pale violet flower, in spring to summer, to 18 inches. Gunnera manicata : It has giant rhubark - like leaves, which may reach 8 ft. across; only for larg Bog garden. Helonia Bullata (Swamp- Pink, Stud Flower) : It develop rosettes of short, sword - like leaves, rich pink spike in spring, 1 foot height. Lythrum Salicaria (Purple loosestrife) : There are several cultivated varieties of this beautiful flower plant with purple to rose-like florescence’s in July. Orchis maderensis : It has long leaves, tall purple flower spikes in 88 summer, 1 foot to 18 inches. Osmunda regalis (Royal Ferm) : It fronds can reach well over 4 feet Rock Garden, Water Garden long; conspicuous fertile fronds; russet autumn leaves. and Indoor Garden Primula Busiana : It has rosy - purple flowers with yellow eye, in May, 2 feet or more. 3.2.3 Indoor Gardens
A new craze is developing in metropolitan cities where most of the people leave in flats or small houses and they do not have space for outdoor gardening but they want to develop garden. For these people new concept of indoor gardening is developed. In indoor gardening mostly foliage, plants and climbers bulbous, Cacti and succulents plants are used in pots or Containers. These garden developed with the help of plants grown in pots, containers etc to put them together in a shape of miniature garden.
The people who have small house, they started to develop basements, which are being fitted with powerful electric lamp and misting cooler to develop essential environment for indoor plants, used for indoor gardening. Many type of plants can be grown under these condition. These structure are a sort of glass- house without glass. If you have a basement, consider it an artificial garden or indoor garden with containers.
Some flats have tiny courtyards available for container gardens and one or two trees. Some with above the ground flats, window - sills, doorways, staircases, and balconies can be utilised for indoor gardening.
3.2.3.1 Problems of Indoor Garden i) The big problem with indoor gardening in containers is not so much, but the selection of suitable plants to fill them. The most important aspect is the space available for roots. Some boxes and urns, while charming to look at, are impractical in this respect. ii) The 2nd important consideration is the provision for drainage. We have to make necessary arrangement to control it, so that our garden will remain neat and clean.
3.2.3.2 Type of Containers for Indoor Gardening
There are wide variety of containers available on garden shops, garden centre and nursery man stock. Some are expensive, other comparatively cheap.
Wooden tub containers can be round, like an old type of beer - barred or square, with either sloping sides or vertical. The most durable are made of teak wood which do not require painting. Cedar also stands up well to the dampness of soil.
Some clay pots are also available. They are in different sizes and shape, some plain and other ornamental. A range of terracotta pots in different size, designed and in attractive colour are also available in the market for Indoor Gardening.
Now a ranges of fibre-glass containers are also available which simulate lead; Modern reproduction, convincing in colour finish. These are less expensive and handsome old century pots are also available in the garden shops. These fiber- 89 Landscaping glass containers are light in weight, strong, durable and do not hamper plant growth. They are easy, to carry from one place to other place and in handling.
Containers for Indoor Gardening
3.2.3.3 Soil / Media for Indoor Garden Containers
The plants generally grown in the containers for Indoor gardening have different type of soil in the containers for different type of plants. These plants may be bushes, small trees, semi-woody foliage plants, climber foliage plants, bulbous Indoor plants, and cacti and succulents. All these types of plants require different media & soil for containers to grow well. These media or soil of different type are described below : A) Potting Mixture / Soil for Woody and Semi-wood Indoor Plants : These plants generally require a heavy texture mixture, specially for large pots plants. The suitable media / soil for such indoor plants have been described below: i) Soil- Based Potting Mixture : It is a heavy mixture, suitable for lager, established and top-heavy foliage plants. This mixture of consist of one - third sterilized fibrous loam, one third medium - grade peat mass or leaf mould or tree - bark and one - third coarse sand or fine partite. A balanced fertilizer dose should be added to the mixture. ii) Peat - Based Potting Mixture : It is a light - weight standardised mixture, containing very few nutrients. A suitable homemade mixture of this type consist of one - third medium grade vermiculite and coarse sand or medium grade perlite. Add two table spoon full of dolomite lime stone powder to every half- litter of mixture control the acidity of the peat. B) Potting Mixture for Indoor Climbers : Indoor climber require a heavy mixture to stand the plant properly on moss - column. There for soil - based potting mixture is suitable for these plants, as mention above. C) Potting Mixture for Indoor Bulbous Plants The Indoor bulbous ornamental plants need two type of potting mixture i) Soil based potting mixture as described above. ii) Bulb - Fiber potting Mixture : It is used only for Indoor bulbs pot 90 plants. It does not contain enough nutrients as for other pot plants. It Rock Garden, Water Garden gives good drainage which is essential to prevent bulbs from rotting. A and Indoor Garden suitable homemade mixture consists of six part of peat moss, two part crushed oyster shell, and one part char cool (6:2:1). This mixture is good for all indoor bulb plants in pot, except lilies which require soil based of potting mixture. D) Potting Mixture / Soil Media for Cacti & Succulents : Choosing the growing media for cacti and succulents is extremely important for their cultivation in the Indoor garden. It is one of the essential element in the success of all future operation. Most cacti and succulents like a slightly acidic soil / media (pH 5.5 to 6.5) for proper growing in Indoor as well as outdoor plantation. The following five type of media / soil mixture for growing of cacti & succulents in pot are recommended : i) One - third send (river sand is preferred), one - third well rotted vegetable mould / leaf mould and one - third sifted soil (1:1:1). This is suitable for most of the Cacti and Succulents. ii) 2 part sea - sand, slightly fibrous garden loam free of unrotted organic matter : 1 part coarse river or lak sand : 1 part very fine gril : a little granular fertilizer according pH of media. This compost / media is suitable for - opentia, cereus and similar genera, echinopsis and Mammillaria. For Selnicerous and Aporocactus. 1 part well - rotted leaf mould shoul be added. Most of the succulents like this type of potting media. iii) Soil that is predominantly inorganic : 3 part and : 2 part garden loam : 1 part leaf mould : 1 part grit. This media suitable for Echino cactus and similar genera; Echinojossulo cactus, Astrophylum and Grymno- calycium, may need the loam reduce to 1 part and leaf mould increase into 2 parts. iv) Equal part of garden loam, leaf mould, and sand : ½ part gril : a little granular fertilizer if pH permit. This media is suitable for Echinocerus; Rubutia and Lobia. The leaf mold may be reduced to ½ part, the ½ part being made up with pea. v) Equal part loam: leaf mould and sand with little fertilizer consisting at most entirely of Phosphates. This is suitable for Epyphillum and schimbergena. For Rhipsales, fibrous peat be suitable for Loam. Most of the succulents like this type of media.
3.2.3.4 Planting for Indoor Gardens
Planting can be permanent or seasonal in containers. Box bushes, small trees, Partguese lurels, Ficus family. Yuccas, Skimmias, Vibunum tinus, Mahovia Japonica other similar shrubs, foliage, climber, bulls and cacti & succulents are all useful for indoor gardening. Beside these perennial foliage plants. We can also grow some seasonal flower plants for indoor Gardening.
Potentillas in shrub form, Camellias, Azabeas and Rhododendrons are excellent for containers growing, sited in shady area but require protection or shelter from cold winds. 91 Landscaping
Pot Arrangement in Indoor Garden
Hydrangeas and hardy Fuchsias need full sun. Variety and colour must be the aim for indoor gardening. For this, bulbs on their own or combined with bedding plants are ideal.
Seasonal planting is relatively easy as there is a wide choice starting in early spring with early spring flowering bulbs.
Hyacinths are particularly attractive in containers of all kind as they are perfect in form and their range of pasted colour and pleasant sent make them a triple treat.
Daffodils and Tulips of all type do well in containers and provide a spring like splash of colour in indoor gardening.
Lilies are also look attractive in container of indoor garden. By choosing a particular type and variety, containers can be made to produce superb shows of lilies from June to the autumn in indoor gardens.
Indoor Garden 92 Short stemmed beding Dahlias in a host of colours will flower in spring in Rock Garden, Water Garden containers. and Indoor Garden
Herbaceous plants like double Daisies and Polyanthus can be added in containers planted with bulbs for spring colour, while Pelagoniums, Petunias, Nicotiana, Heliotropes and Alyssum can spread colour in indoor garden in the early winter to early summer.
Pansies and voila can be interplanted with Hyacinths; Muscari and Scilla are most effective with Diffodils as are Myosotis and Wallflowers with Tulips.
There are several other semi woody or soft woody trees, climbers indoor foliage plants, bulbs, cactus and succulents can also grown successfully in indoor garden. The all cultural practices of these indoor pot plants have been given in the earlier units of this course, in detail for your consideration.
3.2.3.5 Watering to Indoor Gardens
One of the secret of success with indoor - gardening in containers is proper watering. Never over - water, but on the other hand do not let containers, boxes, tube or pots dry out completely. It should be done properly in time.
3.2.3.6 Application of Fertilizer to Indoor Garden Plants
You should remember too that plants in confined space of pot exhaust nourishment. Generally, bulbs need no fertilizer but all other containers plant should have their soil renewed or partially renewed at the top and if this is impossible because of permanent plantings, nourishment should be replaced by application of bone - meal, liquid manure, dried manure, or balanced fertilizer. The methods of fertigation are given in the previous units of indoor plants in detail.
3.2.3.7 Maintenance of Indoor Garden
All these permanent indoor plants require timely potting, repotting, recycling and protection from enemies, procedures for these operation have been given in detain for your study, in the previous units on indoor plants. Those who want to develop indoor garden on multi-storied flat or in balconies, they can use fiber - glass or plastic containers to grown indoor plants because they are light in weight and hence easy to lift and move to high places of the houses.
Check Your Progress Exercise 2 Note : a) Space is given below for answers. b) Compare your answer with that given at the end of the unit. 1) What is the ideal sight for water garden ? ......
...... 93 Landscaping 2) What are the materials used in developing water garden ? ...... 3) Write down the names of two plants each from the group of submerged oxygenating aquatic plants, floating water plants. Deep marginal and marginal plants of water garden......
4) What type of plants are used to develop indoor garden ? ......
3.3 LET US SUM UP
In this unit, you have studied about special type of garden like-rock garden, water garden and indoor garden. We have discussed with you in detail the development of these garden, essential material required to develop these garden, different type of features to be developed in these garden, plants used to develop these garden with their cultural methods etc and problems which we faced to develop these gardens.
3.4 KEY WORDS Portland Stone : A coloured rock developed artificially by cement with a solution of Iron sulphate in any shape or size known as part land stone. Hyper Tufa : It is also an artificial rock developed by mixing two part peat, with one part each of sand and cement, mixed it properly and then add water to it to make a thick cream which you have poured into large hole (develop in the land), you can add any cement colour of your choice to this thick cream cement to develop coloured Hyper Tufa. On dry the product known as hypertufa rock used, for rock garden. 94 Stone Sink : When a miniature rock garden in created in old- Rock Garden, Water Garden fashioned, is known as stone - sink. It can be set in a and Indoor Garden bank raised bed which is supported on stone pillers or like a tube. Water Plants : The group of plants which can be developed or grown in the water pool or pond known as water plants. Polythene : It is a plastic sheet in elastic form are used to develop polystructure and water gardening. Goldfish : It is an ornamental gold colour fish used in water garden pools to make them attractive. Scavenger : An animal, fish or bird which search for decaying flesh as food.
3.5 FURTHER REFERENCES 1) Dorling Kindersley : Pocket encyclopaedia of house plants. 2) Kenneth A. Beckett : The concise encyclopaedia of garden plants. 3) Dr. Vishnu Swarup : Garden Flowers. 4) Roger Grounds : Ward lock’s gardening in colour. 5) Miles Anderson : The ward encyclopaedia of cacti & succulents 6) Mariella Pizzethi : The MacDonald Encyclopaedie of cacti. 3.6 ANSWERS TO CHECK YOUR PROGRESS EXERCISES
Check Your Progress Exercise 1
1) When a garden is developed with the help of different type rocks and stones or on rocks, with ornamental plants is known a Rock – garden.
2) The different type of stone used in Rock-garden are limestone, Port landstone, sandstone Tufa stone, Granite stone and local rock.
3) The best media for Rock-garden is – four past loam, Two past humus and two part grift (4:2:2) is used.
4) Five flowering plants for rock garden are – Bell flower (campanula), Geranium (Crane’s Bill), Dianthus, Premula (Primrose), and oxalis.
Check Your Progress Exercise 2
1) Ideal sight to develop water garden should be away from the trees, because faded leaves of plants leaf will fall in the water and rotting of leaves from nearby trees and vegetation is likely to poison the fish in the water Bond.
2) The materials require to develop a water garden are laminated reinforced Nylone PVC, Butyl, Polythene, Preshaped Plastic Liners, Plant material and fishes (stockings). 95 Landscaping 3) The plants are – Water lilies (Nymphara), James Bridon; Azolla Caroliniana (Fairy moss), Hydrocharis morsusraneae (Fronglit); Hottonia Palustris (Water violet), Ornatium aquaticum (golden club) and Mimulus guttatus (Monkey musk) Cyperus long us (Sweet galingale).
4) These is a large range of plants used to develop Indoor garden such as - Box bushes, Ficus plant species, Yuccas, Vibunum tinus, Semi-woody indoor Plants, Foliage clumbers, Indoor Plants - Hyacinths, Diffodils etc and Cacti and Succulents etc.
96 Rock Garden, Water Garden UNIT 4 CACTI AND SUCCULENTS GARDEN and Indoor Garden
Structure 4.0 Objectives 4.1 Introduction 4.2 Natural Habitats of Cacti and Succulents for Garden 4.2.1 Desert plains Cacti and Succulents 4.2.2 Mountainous Deserts Cacti and Succulents 4.2.3 Jungles Cacti and Succulents 4.3 Essential Equipments and Material for Developing a Cacti and Succulents Garden 4.3.1 Important Tools for Garden 4.3.2 Top- Dressing Material for Garden Plants of Cacti and Succulents 4.4 Essential Environmental Factors for Cacti and Succulents Garden 4.4.1 Light and Air 4.4.2 Temperature 4.4.3 Humidity 4.5 Growing Media / Soil for Cacti and Succulents Garden 4.5.1 Type of Soil Media for Cacti and Succulents 4.5.2 Top - Dressing Material for Garden Plants of Cacti and Succulents 4.6 Garden Settings for Cacti and Succulents 4.7 Plantation of Cacti and Succulents in Garden Beds 4.7.1 Creating a Desert look in the Garden 4.8 Cacti and Succulents Plants for Garden 4.8.1 Cacti 4.8.1.1 Cacti Type – 25 ft. and above Height 4.8.1.2 Cacti Type – 15 ft. to 24 ft. Height 4.8.1.3 Cacti Type – 5 ft. to 14 ft. Height 4.8.1.4 Cacti Type – 3 ft. to 5 ft. below Height 4.8.1.5 Cacti Type – 11 inches to 24 inches Height 4.8.1.6 Cacti Type – 1 inch to 10 inches Height 4.8.2 Succulents 4.8.2.1 Succulents Type – 15 ft. to 30 ft. Height 4.8.2.2 Succulents Type – 10 ft. to below 15 ft. Height 4.8.2.3 Succulents Type – 5 ft. to below 10 ft. Height 4.8.2.4 Succulents Type – 2 ft. to below 5 ft. Height 4.8.2.5 Succulents Type – 13 inches to 23 inches Height 4.8.2.6 Succulents Type – 1 inch to 12 inches Height 4.9 Maintenance of Cacti & Succulents Garden 4.9.1 Irrigation or Watering 4.9.2 Fertigation of Cacti and Succulents Garden 4.9.3 Handling of Cacti and Succulents 4.9.4 Pruning 4.9.5 Plant Hygiene 97 Landscaping 4.10 Propagation 4.10.1 Sexual Method of Propagation 4.10.2 Asexual Method of Propagation 4.10.2.1 By Cutting 4.10.2.2 By Division 4.10.2.3 By Grafting 4.11 Plants Problems / Enemies 4.11.1 Diseases of Cacti & Succulents 4.11.1.1 Basal and Root - Rot 4.11.1.2 Fungal Leaf Spots 4.11.1.3 Shooty Mold 4.11.1.4 Cork Scab 4.11.2 Insects, Pest of Cacti & Succulents 4.11.2.1 Mealy Bugs 4.11.2.2 Aphids 4.11.2.3 Scale 4.11.2.4 Spider Mites 4.11.2.5 Thrips 4.11.3 Cultural Damage of Cacti and Succulents 4.11.3.1 Cold Damage 4.11.3.2 Drought Damage 4.11.3.3 Scorch Damage 4.12 Let Us Sum Up 4.13 Key Words 4.14 Further References 4.15 Answers to Check Your Progress Exercises 4.0 OBJECTIVES
After going through this unit, you will be in position to : study Cacti and Succulents plants used in open garden development, learn essential equipments and material for garden plantation, discuss essential environment for Cacti & Succulent garden, study land development and growing media for Cacti and Succulents garden, discuss garden setting for Cacti and Succulent, learn plantation methods of plants in the garden with Cacti & Succulents, discuss cultural operations in Cacti & Succulent garden, and learn protection method of garden plants of Cacti and Succulents from enemies/ problems. 4.1 INTRODUCTION
Originally, Cacti grow only on the American continent. Succulents were in nature to many region from Northern Europe to the Far-East. Most of them were 98 concentrated in southern and eastern Africa. Natural distribution, enabled Cacti and Succulents to establish in new habitat across the world. Now these are Cacti and Succulents Garden cultivated throughout the world.
Today, gardeners initiated in Cacti and Succulents as both, to develop open space garden and as a indoor decoration garden. There are national Cactus and Succulents societies in many countries. Botanist continue to discover new species in the wild region. About indoor gardening you have studied in the previous unit on Indoor Cacti and Succulents plants in detail. Here we will discuss to grow Cacti and Succulent in the form of a garden in open space. It can be develop as the open space garden, patios and Terraces gardens of your houses.
Impressive collection of Cacti and Succulents have been established in the form of a garden, in various parts of the world, in both private gardens and botanical gardens or institutions. Among the best known are the Huntington Botanical Garden, in Callifornia; in Switzerland - collection in Zurich; the Palmengasten in Frankfurt, Germany and the oldest collection at the Royal Botanical garden, Kew. A collection of Cacti and Succulents has also been establish in Brisbane – Australia.
There is a great scope to develop Cacti and Succulent garden in the open space, if there is space to prepare a well drained bed. Even in cooler climate, a wide variety of Cacti and Succulents plants can be sunk into the beds in pots during the summer to give seasonal interest to the display.
4.2 NATURAL HABITATS OF CACTI AND SUCCULENTS FOR GARDEN
Cacti and Succulents do not inhabit only conventional deserts. They have a rich range of Habitat, from snow clad Alpine slopes and arid plains of Colorado, plains to humid jungles in the Amazon basin. These plants grow in such conditions where survival is very difficult; indeed their success partly depend o lack of competition from other, less robust plant life. Looking at their habitates reveals much about their evolution and cultural need which help us to develop Cacti and Succulents gardens. 4.2.1 Desert Plains Cacti and Succulents
In harsh dry habitats, Cacti and Succulents reign unchallenged, during high temperature, extremes of scorching days and freezing nights. Some cacti can survive without water for years and live in true desert, which have less than 25 cm of rain fall in a year. Most grow in semi deserts Cacti and Succulents, which receive sporadic rainfalls between drought. The semideserts areas have very poor soil with little vegetation and rocky outcrops, rather than pure sand. Small plants like haworthia, thrive occasional bush fire. Desert Cacti and Succulents have capacity to store moisture and withstand in drought, by becoming dormant, and start growing in favourable conditions. The knowledge of these plants help us to develop Cacti and Succulents garden in dry areas where rain fall is less or less water is available to irrigate the garden. 4.2.2 Mountainous Deserts Cacti and Succulents In mountainous deserts, including screes and rocky slopes. The soil in these region is often very thin, does not retain more water. It has a high mineral content 99 Landscaping that can be toxic to nonsucculent plants. In mountain desert only native Cacti and Succulents survive. On high peaks, plants are expose the bright sunlight, night temperature as low as – 4°F (-20°C), Fierce winds, and snow. Above cloud layer some time there is no rain but the plants gain moisture from melting snow. In such condition only small globular or creeper Cacti and Succulents can survive in such condition, but lower down, where the scope has some shelter, columnar Cacti and large Succulents can grow at such places. As such places, the cloud left diffuses the harsh sun-light and provides some moisture to Cacti and Succulents grown there. On dry overcast foot hills below the clouds, small cushion type Cacti predominate. At such places where harse cold and bright sun, many Cacti in such mountain regions have a dense coat of woolly spines and succulents developed thick, waxy skins. Low - growing succulents also grow in many rocky habitats in temperate regions.
Some simpervivum species colonize the Alpine part of Europe, and several species of Sedum thrive in much of the Northeren Hemisphere. Even in the Galapagos Island, the soil - less wastes of Lava rock, provide a home for Cacti such as Brachy cereus nesiotieus. All these such type of information about the habits of succulents and Cacti grow there, are very helpful to develop a Cacti & Succulent garden in such type regions.
Cacti Garden on Mountain
4.2.3 Jungles Cacti and Succulents
Most of the Cacti and succulents grow in arid deserts and mountain areas, but many species inhabit to grow in sub-tropical and tropical rain forests. These forests are in central and South America, Sri Lanka, the West Indies and Africa. Here the climate is constantly hot and humid. The sunlight is filtered through a thick tree canopy. Succulents and Cacti are amply provided with moisture from the atmosphere and regular rain falls. Therefore Cacti and Succulents of such region, have adapted, to survive in less light rather than water. Although, they can survive in periods of drought. Such type of plants are best grown in humid and light shaded areas of Cacti and Succulent gardens. 100 Many jungle or forest Cacti such as Flamboyantly flowered Epiphyllum, some Cacti and Succulents Garden succulents like ‘Hoya’ which grow in Northeastern Australia, are epithytes. The anchor themselves to the stems of other plants or inhabit the upper branches of trees where there is more light. Other species have scrambling or climbing habit. This habit help them to grow over or through other plants toward the light.
Some succulents inhabit the gloom of the forest floor and some small Cacti such as Gymnocalycium grow in broken shade of rainforest margins. All such type informations are very helpful when we are selecting Cacti and Succulents to develop a garden.
4.3 ESSENTIAL EQUIPMENTS AND MATERIAL FOR DEVELOPING A CACTI AND SUCCULENT GARDEN
Generally, gardening equipment is perfectly adequate for growing Cacti and Succulents. High – quality tools are always worth because they are durable and easy to use. A few items are invaluable for handling spiny cacti. Use thick gloves, a paper Collar, a cloth wad. Remove any spines that do become embedded with tweezers. Pat the skin with adhesive tape to strip out bristles, or soak the affected part in hot soapy water. 4.3.1 Important Tools for Garden
There are several tools which are very useful to develop a garden. These important tools are as follow: i) All Purpose knife : This is useful for all cutting jobs except heavy pruning. ii) Retractable - Blade knife : with its thin sharp blade, this is a good alternative for grafting to all- purpose knife. iii) Gloves : Leather gloves provide protection when handling spiny or thorny plants. iv) Dibber : It is used to mak holls in planting mixture when inserting seedlings or cutting in the pot or garden beds. v) Spoon : A large spoon makes a good mini-trowel for use in small space. vi) Hand Hoe : It is useful for weeding in small areas and between closely spaced plants. vii) Widger : It is useful for lifting seedlings and cutting to avoid damaging their roots. viii) Wide - Bladed Trowel : It is used to dig in open raised beds, plant up large containers or window boxes, and when mixing up planting mixes. ix) Narrow - Bladed Trowel : The narrow blade make this trowel convenient when digging between plat or in confined spaces. x) Pruners or secateurs : It is used for pruning and taking cutting. xi) Folding Pruning Saw : This is essential for pruning large plants of Cacti and Succulents, especially at an awkward angle or in a confined space. The blades fold the saw can fit easily into pocket. 101 Landscaping xii) Brushes : A very fine paintbrush is essential for removing grit, dirt from spiny cacti and succulents, without damaging them. xiii) Plant Lables : Use lables to identified the plants in the garden. This is very important when propagating. xiv) Seed - Tray : Use for growing seedlings or rooting cuttings. This should be 1½ - 2½ in (4-6 cm) deep to stop the potting mixture from drying out too quickly. xv) Minimum - Maximum Thermometer : For recording the highest and lowest temperature. This type of thermometer can help to find the most suitable site for a plant. It may also indicate why a plant has suffered some types of damage. xvi) Moisture Meter : The only accurate way to measure moisture contents throughout a bed or container is with a meter. Water only when the meter indicate that the soil is dry. Meter is essential whenever watering should be kept to a minimum. xvii) pH Testing Paper : It is used to test the pH of soil or water. 4.3.2 Top - Dressings Material for Garden Plants of Cacti and Succulents
Any display of cactus and succulents in open or pots is enhanced by a top-dressing that completely covers the soil. Top - dressings also reduce soil erosion and water splash marks on the plants, retain moisture in the soil, and suppressed weeds. Use a top - dressing in a size and colour appropriate to the bed or containers. These materials are as follows : i) Local Stone: It is best, for top- dressing. ii) Pumice Stone. iii) Pea-sized beach pebbles may also suitable. iv) Do not use crushed line stone, which increases the soil’s alkalinity, because the top-dressing must be inert. 4.4 ESSENTIAL ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS FOR CACTI AND SUCCULENTS GARDEN
Now we will discuss about essential factors which develop environment to grow cacti and succulents in the garden. Many species of cacti and succulents have their own specific requirement to grow. A part from the initial health of plants and medium in which it is grown. The important requirements for proper growing environment of plant is governed by light and air temperature and humidity. Beside this soil media, water, fertigation etc are also important for their health and attractive growth. These essential factor are described below : 4.4.1 Light and Air
Light play a very important role in the development of cacti and succulent garden. Plant with the help of light is produced its food. The help of air from which they absorb carbon dioxide and minerals with the help of water from soil and with the 102 help of these light carryout the important plant process of photosynthesis, which produce food for the growth of the plants in the growing period. Therefore cacti Cacti and Succulents Garden and succulents need more light level during growing period. Some cacti and succulents can grow in low light, provided water and nutrient. These species are survived but not flowered. Too-much sunlight is as bad as not enough light, for some species to grow in the garden. It cause sun-burn damage to the plant on the sunny side. The sun-stress of this kind can be remedial in pot by removing the plant to less sunny place but in the ground it require temporarily covering it with shaded cloth or muslin cloth or shaded agro-net. The amount of light level can be measured by photographic light meter. The plants which require a maximum amount of light level are – Labiata, Oraya, Oreacereus, Matucana, Sub-matucana, Monadeniun, Euphorlia sp. etc. 4.4.2 Temperature
Most of the cacti and succulent can grow well in outside temperature. Temperature play a dominant role and is indispensable to the great majority of flowering cacti and succulent in open garden. In winter optimum temperature require around to be 7°C or 8°C. In summer most of these plants require a range of temperature from 35°C - 40°C as long as they have full ventilation. The temperature surround the cacti and succulent garden can be measured by minimum and maxi-mum thermometer. 4.4.3 Humidity
You known, Cacti and Succulents does not require regular humidity like other ornamental plants. These plants require resting period and at this time they require very low humidity and moisture. This period of more or less dryness has a definite effects on the vegetative growth of the plant. To sum-up from the end of September, the watering gradually be cut back, until only the occasional spraying should be doe upto December to January. From late February onward a little watering should be start and gradually increase to reach maximum upto the month of July and August to increase the humidity. The humidity level in the gardener can measure with the help of humidity meter.
4.5 GROWING MEDIA / SOIL FOR CACTI AND SUCCULENTS GARDEN
Selection of growing media is extremely important. It is one of the essential element for the successfully growing cacti and succulents in open garden. All members of cacti and succulents need porous and well drained soil media. If garden soil become water logged, the roots of these plants will rot and plant will die soon. Always select reused ground to develop cacti and succulent garden and use small gravel at the bottom of growing beets for drainage of water.
Most of the cacti and succulents need a slightly acedie soil media. The pH of the garden beds should be in the range of 5 to 6.5. If the soil mixture of garden beds is very acetic, add lime stone to make the soil less “Acidic”. It is express by “pH” and represent by the number between 0 and 14, sowing the ratio of acidity / Alkalinity. A pH - 7 is neutral; between 0 to 7 pH, the acidity of soil increases; between 7 to 14, the alkalinity increases. As a genial rules vegetative organism survive in a ideal pH between 7 and 9. For cacti and succulents ideal pH is 5.5 to 6.5 to grow better both in the garden beds as well as in containers. 103 Landscaping 4.5.1 Type of soil media for Cacti and Succulents
When cacti and succulents are grown in the open soil of garden beds, the extra drainage be provided immediately below the roots in the cacti and succulents beds, in the form of crushed crocks for proper drainage. The electric conductivity (EC) of the soil in the garden beds should be less than one (1) for proper cultivation. Ideal soil medias to grow cacti and succulents in garden beds as well as in containers are five types which are recommended by growers. Most basic cactus and succulents compost have 25-50 % organic matter, combined with an inorganic ingredient. This should be loose and well acrated, even when wet to prevent water logging and root rot. A good succulent compost allow for easy root growth, while holding less water than a typical house plant compost. Growers recommended five types of media which are described below one by one. i) One third sand (river send); one third well-rotted and sifted vegetable mould / leaf mould and one third sifted soil. It is good most of the Cacti and Succulents. ii) Equal part of garden loam, leaf-mould and sand, ½ part gril, a little granular fertilizer if pH permit. This is suitable for Echinocereus. For Rubutia and Lobia, the leaf mould may be reduce to ½ part, the other ½ part being made up with peat. iii) Equal part of Loam, leaf mould and sand with little fertilizer consist at most entirely of Phosphates. This type of media is good for Ephyllum, Schlumberger etc. for Rhipsales type of cactus, fibrous peat be substituted for loam. Most of the succulent like this type of media. iv) Soil that is pre-dominatly inorganic : 3 part of sand : 2 part of garden Loam : 1 part leafmould : 1 part grit. This media is suitable for Echino cactus, and similar genera of Echinofossulo – Cactus; Astro Phytum and Gymno - Calcium cactus may need loam reduce to 1 part and leaf mould increase 2 part. v) 2 part sea - sand, slightly fibrous garden loam free of unrotted organic meter : 1 part a little granular fertilizer according to pH of media. This media is suitable for – opuntia, cereus and similar generas of cacti; Echinopsis and Mammillaria sp. of cacti. For selenicereus and Apora – cactus. Most of the succulents like this type of media to develop cacti & succulent garden. Soil – based medias are good for both outdoor use and for containers to grow cacti and succulents. A good mixture is 3 part of sterilized, fibrous soil; one part of peat mass, and one part 6 mm washed grif, enriched with balanced fertiliser. 4.5.2 Top - Dressing Materials for Garden Plants of Cacti and Succulents Any display is enhanced by a top-dressing that completely cover the soil. Topdress also reduce soil erosion, conserver moisture and suppressed weeds. Top-dressing material should be used according to the size and colour suitable to beds or 104 containers. Local stone is best, although perlite, pumice, or Peat - sized beach pebbles may Cacti and Succulents Garden also be suitable for top-dressing. Do not use crushed lime stone, which increase the soil’s alkalinity, because the top-dressing must be inert.
4.6 GARDEN SETTINGS FOR CACTI AND SUCCULENTS
There is a good scope to implement your imaginations free rein in the development of an open garden of cacti and succulents. Especially, if there is space to prepare well-drained beds. Even in cooler climates, a wide range of variety of plants may be grown in open garden and tender plants can be sunk into the beds in pots during summer to give seasonal look and display in the garden.
When you are grouping the plants in cacti and succulent garden, consider scale, shape, texture and colour. If plants are large, shape and form are likely to be most important and have the strongest impact. If the plants are smaller featured should be grown in a raised beds to be viewed at close hand. The differences in texture and colour should be more noticeable.
Plants should be combine in such a way that flower one after the other for succession of colour. If flowering time of plants overlap, ensure that the colours of the blooms complement each other. Also include species in plantation with unusual forms and texture to provide year - round interest; for example, the globular form, glossy skin and sharp spines of Gymnocalycium horsitti can be contrasted with the candle like stems of Mammillaria elongata in golden and comb like spines.
Cacti and succulents may also be grown with other plants, provided that all thrive in the same condition. For example, the rich burgundy foliage of Euphorlia amygdaloides ‘Purpurea’ creates a contrast to the plate like rosettes of “Aeonium tabuliforme or a spreading carpet of evergreen Juniperus Squamata”.
Without a doubt, the most beautiful and attractive displays of succulent are well planned in outdoor garden plantings. When succulents planted in the ground expose to the elements cacti and succulents can take on an appearance that is not otherwise possible. The benefits of growing cacti and succulents in the ground are balanced, liabilities, however.
The gardener does have the certain control over the environment provides for plants grown in the open garden. This must be taken into consideration before the 1st succulent or cacti is ever put in the ground. To prevent water logging, particularly in regions where high rainfall, in such region succulent can be maintained in raised beds or planted on mounds formed of a well drained soil media. In many gardens, a steep slope with sallow soil is all that many succulent species require.
In order to preparation the garden site for plantation correctly, the selection of a species for particular site should be done very carefully to grow in the garden. This does not means only choosing those with the right tolerance for sum and for temperature, they are expected to tolerate. You should select such species of cacti and succulents which will grow well together for a longer period. By picking the right species, the gardener will determine the amount of annual care that 105 Landscaping must go into the planting of garden. The species selection will determine if the planting is to be a long - term, low- maintenance display or a hand - on garden, requiring thinning, as specimens begins to over - run each other and to maintain its beauty.
Additionally, a covering of an old sheet or agro - shedding net will add several degree of frost protection. Where winters are two severe, gardeners are forced to move tender or semi-hardy plants to indoor or under polyhouse during the winter months. Always grow such species which are suitable for a partial region or so. Generally, these garden plants of cacti and succulents require minimum care through the winter, infrequent watering and no fertilization.
4.7 PLANTATION OF CACTI AND SUCCULENTS IN GARDEN BEDS
The cacti and succulents are generally planted in the spring season. Taller plants should be planted on border or periphery of the garden. In this way these plants can grow properly and develop their beauty. From border of the garden to path corners simultaneously plant with smaller height of plant type, so that they will not overlap to other. At extreme end near path border, spreading type of dwarf species of cacti & succulents should be planted. This way each type plant will be visible in the garden.
On raised ground beds, cactus planting with various species of cacti and succulents appears most natural in the garden. This can be emphasized by the use of various top dressing material and larger stones. Since succulent plants will tolerate transplanting more often than other plants.
In well-drained soil and low rainfall areas, growers can plant cacti and succulents in beds at ground level in the garden. In general cacti and succulents are planted on raised beds which require more preparation. Depending on the desired look and life expectancy of the beds, the sides can be developed from any number of rock material. Brick, blocs of concrete, treated wood or mortared stone are most common. Fill the raised beds of the garden that sit directly on the ground entirely with the growing media or, if increase drainage is needed, put a lower layer of gravel at the bottom. Now we will discuss plantation plan of Cacti and Succulents as follows:
Cacti & Succulents Plantation in the Garden 106 Narrow, tall-growing cacti like Opuntia and succulent like Sanseviaria are Cacti and Succulents Garden good plants for narrow locations beds of the garden. However, care should be taken not to position spiny plants in high traffic areas. Leaf succulents like as Pachypodium sp., Adenium sp. and many other species like Euphorlua, can provide the illusion of flush tropical greenery in the garden, without the frequent watering required by non - succulent species of plants. The Blue colouring tall species of Pilosocereus - cactus look very attractive in the centre of raised beds or mount and on border in a bright light. An affords always be made to select plants will grow well in the amount of light available. An “Agave” americana medio - picta alba very effective in the garden for colour contrast. For display in a corner or against a wall, the taller plants should be planted toward the back in the garden. A group of Echinocereus or “Hedgebog cacti” so called because of the hemispherical mounds look very attractive when planted in the front of the semi -tall cacti species in the garden. Opuntia or Prickly pear, provides the spread view and greenery in the garden, while requiring less frequent watering. The choice of less spined species of succulents is especially important for busy area of the garden. The species of Agave, Opuntia and Dasylirion provide a relatively care - free landscape in the garden. There species have also been selected for their cold and sun hardiness to suite the climate and will require no additional protection once established in the garden. The yellow - flowered rosettes of Aeonium and Pink - flowered lampranthus can be combined for effect in the mass planting. In plantings with relatively fast -growing, spreading succulents, need occasional pruning. After several years, the bed will become untidy and overgrown. This is the time to replant a mass planting in the garden. The choice of plants for a garden plantation with cacti and succulents, is determined by the local climate and the amount of care provided by the gardener. In the back ground on “Aloe” and Agave, provide a back drop for smaller, busy species of Mesembryanthemum maceae and a large cluster of “Aeonium”. Succulents are often used as peripheral plants to create a oasis. The inner plants are often non - succulent and occasionally quit bush. Drought hardy and succulents species are selected for the middle areas. Some species of succulents that require no additional water are selected for gardens where, there is a shortage of water for irrigation. When you are going to plant cacti or succulent in the garden, start with the tallest one. At time of plantation remove each plant from its pot. When you are going remove plant from plant, rap a strip of folded brown paper around the stem of each cactus, to form a handle and gently lift the plant from its pot. A hole is scoop out in the garden beds soil mixture, for each plant, 107 Landscaping where you want to plant this cacti or succulent. Lower the plant into the hole, make sure it is sitting at the same depth in the hole, as it was in its nursery pot, spread out its roots and fill in around them with more mixture. Once all the plants are in place in the garden beds, lightly firm the surface of the planting mixture. Gently remove any planting mixture that has lodged on the plants, spines or leaves with a fine soft brush. Position a few decorative pebbles on top of the planting mixture and spoon on a layer of grift. Brush the surface and spray it with water to wash the stone. Leave it for three-four days, then it is watered lightly. Succulents are required light watering after plantation while irrigate cacti after 3 to 5 days. 4.7.1 Creating a Dissert look in the Garden
Mainly from dry habitats, cacti and succulents after enormous scope for creating desert-style displays with their diverse range of shapes, colour and texture. Try a few small or slow-growing plants in a miniature dissert garden for a long - lasting arrangements, that should be brightly lite possession in the garden. Most species need very little water and are dormant during winter, make sure to choose plants that are compatible in these respects. Take care to avoid overwatering the plants. Once planted a desert garden, it will survive happily for several years.
Check Your Progress Exercise 1 Note : a) Space is given below for answers. b) Compare your answer with that given at the end of the unit. 1) What are Jungle Cacti and Succulents ? ...... 2) What are essential equipments require to develop a Cacti & Succulent garden? ...... 3) What is the ideal range of pH require to grow Cacti and Succulents ? ...... 4) What is the time of plantation of Cacti and Succulent in the garden ? ......
108 ...... Cacti and Succulents Garden 4.8 CACTI AND SUCCULENTS PLANTS FOR GARDEN
We will categorized some cacti and succulent plants according to their height, habit etc in the following way : 4.8.1 Cacti
4.8.1.1 Cacti type – 25 ft. & above Height i) Cephalocerus senilis : Ht. - 50 ft.; spread - 12 inch; min. temp. - 4°C. ii) Pereskia aculeate : Ht. - 30 ft.; spread - unlimited; min. temp. - 4°C; sented, white, cream or rose colour flower in autumn. iii) Cereus velidus : Ht. - 25 ft.; spread - 10 ft.; min. temp. - 7°C; flower phikish, white and summer flowering. 4.8.1.2 Cacti type – 15 ft. to 24 ft. Height i) Cureus hildmannianurs V. mostrose : Ht. - 15 ft.; spread - 10 ft.; mini temp.- 5°C; white flowers. ii) Opuntia neoargentina : Ht. - 15 ft.; spread - 4 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; yellow flower, in summer. iii) Pachycereus schottii : Ht.- 20 ft.; spread - 8 ft.; min. temp. 10°C; cream to dark pink flower in spring to summer. iv) P. schottii v. Moustrose : Ht. - 20 ft.; spread - 8 ft.; min. temp. - 10°C. v) Pilosocereus leucocephalus F. Palmeri : Ht. - 20 ft.; spread - 5 ft.; min. temp.- 10°C, pale pink to white flowers. vi) Weberbauerocereus johnsonii: Ht. - 20 ft.; spread - 6 ft.; mini. temp - 7°C; white or Pale pink flower; golden spine.
Succulent Garden with Different Types 109 Landscaping 4.8.1.3 Cacti type – 5 ft. to 14 ft. Height i) Oreocereus celsianus : Ht. - 10 ft.; spread - 3 ft.; min. temp. - 10°C; pink flowers. ii) Ferocactus cylindraceus : Ht. - 10 ft.; spread - 3 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; orange or yellow flower. iii) Ferocactus latispinus : Ht. - 10 ft.; spread - 15 inch; min. temp. - 5°C; creamy to purple flowers – in spring or autumn. iv) Espostoa lanata : Ht. - 12 ft.; spread - 3 ft., min. temp. - 5°C; unpleasant scented, white flowers. v) Echinopsis deserticola : Ht. - 6 ft.; spread - 4 ft.; min. temp 7°C; pall pink to white flowers appears in summer. vi) Echinopsis scopulicola : Ht. - 6 ft.; spread - 3 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; flower creamy white appears in summer. vii) E. bachergii : Ht. - 9 ft.; spread - 3 ft.; min. temp - 5°C; red or purple flowers produce in summer. viii) Clustocactus strausii : Ht. - 10 ft.; spread - 6 ft.; min temp. - 5°C; Ecy - catching silvery spines; Redish flowers appear in spring. ix) C. brookeae : Ht. - 5 ft.; spread - unlimited; min. temp. - 5°C; attractive pale golden spines; flower redish – orange- in summer. x) Cereus aethiops : Ht. - 10 ft.; spread - 4 ft.; min. temp. - 4°C; blue green stem, black spines; purple-red flower in summer.
Cacti Garden Plantation 4.8.1.4 Cacti types – 3 ft. to 5 ft. below Height i) Cleistocactus winteri : Ht. - 3 ft.; spread – unlimited; min. temp. - 7°C; short attractive golden spine, red to orange flowers from spring to summer. ii) Echinopsis huascha : Ht. - 3 ft.; spread – unlimited; min. temp - 5°C; red or 110 golden colour flowers – in summer. iii) E.colochlora : Ht. - 3 ft.; spread – unlimited; min. temp. - 5°C; flower, Red Cacti and Succulents Garden in colour appears in summer. iv) Neoporteria curvispina : Ht. - 3 ft.; spread - 5 inch; min. temp. - 7°C; v) N. subgibbosa : Ht. - 3 ft.; spread - 5 inch; min. temp. - 7°C; Redish pink flowers, in autumn and spring. vi) Opentia tunica : Ht. - 3 ft.; spread - 6 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; flower golden to pink, populike in summer. vii) Rhipsalis crispata : Ht. - 3 ft.; spread – unlimited; min. temp. - 10°C; cream colour flowers from spring to early summer. 4.8.1.5 Cacti type – 11 inches to 24 inches Height i) Capiapoa coquimbana : Ht. - 18 inch; spread - 3 ft.; min. temp. - 7°C; yellow flowers in spring and summer. ii) Coryphantha clava : Ht. - 15 inch; spread - 2 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; golden flowers in spring or summer. iii) Ferocactus echidne : Ht. - 12 inch; spread - 12 inch; min. temp. - 5°C; yellow flower in spring or summer. iv) Mammillaria pringlei : Ht. - 12 inch; spread - 4 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; crimson flower in spring. v) M. magnimamma : Ht. - 12 inch; spread - 3 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; pale pink or purple flower appears in spring. vi) M. lomlycina : Ht. - 12 inch; spread – unlimited; min. temp - 5°C; redish pink flowers in spring or summer. vii) Neoporteria clavata : Ht. - 12 inch; spread - 5 inch; min. temp. - 7°C; pink or purple flowers appears spring and Autumn. viii) Parodia horstii: Ht. - 24 inch; spread - 12 inch; min. temp. - 7°C. ix) Schiumbergeratruncata : Ht. - 12 inch; spread - unlimited; min. temp. - 5°C; radish purple flowers in spring & Autumn. x) S. hybrida : Ht. - 12 inch; spread – unlimited; min. temp. - 5°C; red flowers in spring and autumn.
4.8.1.6 Cacti type – 1 inch to 10 inches Height i) Thelo cactus bicolor : Ht. - 10 inch; spread - 5 inch; min. temp. - 5°C; red and yellow spines, pint – purple flowers. ii) T. stispinus : Ht. - 7 inch; spread - 10 inch; min. temp. - 5°C; Citrus - scented, yellow flowers. iii) T. rinconensis : Ht. - 6 inch; spread - 12 inch; min. temp. - 5°C; white, pole golden or pink flower. iv) Stenocactus multicostatus : Ht. - 5 inch; spread - 5 inch; min. temp. - 5°C; pole yellow to brown and slightly pink shad flowers in spring to summer. v) Rebutia mentosa F. flavissini : Ht. - 4 inch; spread - 5 inch; min. temp. - 4°C; eye –catching magenta to carmine. 111 Landscaping vi) Rubutia arenacea : Ht. - 4 inch; spread - 8 inch; min. temp. - 7°C; golden yellow flowers in spring. vii) R. pastel pink: Ht. - 4 inch; spread - 12 inch; min. temp. - 4°C; flower in various shad of pink in spring. viii) R. heliosa : Ht. - 3 inch; spread - 8 inch; min. temp. - 5°C; red- orange flowers in spring. ix) R. muscuta : Ht. - 3 inch; spread - 12 inch; min. temp. - 5°C; white eye- catering hair, attractive plant-body, Redis orange flower in spring some time in autumn also. x) Parodia chrysacanthion : Ht. - 8 inch; spread - 8 inch; min. temp. - 5°C; attractive golden spine, small yellow flower in spring to summer. xi) P. horstii : Ht. - 2 inch; spread - 12 inch; min. temp. - 7°C; orange flower in summer. xii) Oroya peruviana : Ht. - 4 inch; spread - 8 inch; min. temp. - 10°C; orange or red flower bud, yellow hingid, carmine to crimson flower. xiii) Matucana intertexta : Ht. - 4 inch; spread - 8 inch; min. temp. - 10°C; red or orange flower in spring and summer. xiv) Melocactus salvadorenjis : Ht. - 5 inch; spread - 7 inch; min. temp. - 16°C; pink to cerise flowers appear in summer. xv) M. matazanus : Ht. - 5 inch; spread - 5 inch; min. temp. - 16°C. xvi) Mammillaria sempervivi : Ht. - 8 inch; spread - 8 inch; min. temp. - 5°C; yellow or white flowered in sprig. xvii)M. ailmanniana : Ht. - 6 inch; spread - 2 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; carmine – pink flowers in spring. xviii) Gymnocalycium mihanovichii “Red Top” : Ht. - 6 inch; spread - 6 inch; min. temp. – 10-16°C; light pink flower in spring. xix) G. bruchii : Ht. - 5 inch; spread - 18 inch; min. temp. - 5°C; light pink flower in spring.
Cacti Garden with small Types 112 xx) Ferocactus latispinus : Ht. - 10 inch; spread - 12 inch; min. temp. - 5°C; Cacti and Succulents Garden creamy to purple flowers in spring and autumn. xxi) Echinopsis chamaecereus F. lutea : Ht. - 5 inch; spread - 10 inch; min. temp. - 10°C; Red flowers in spring or summer. xxii) Caryphantha pseudoechinus : Ht. - 7 inch; spread - 12 inch; min. temp. - 5°C; attractive pale or red brown spine, violet - pink flowers in spring or summer. xxiii) Capiapoa hypogaea : Ht. - 6 inch; spread - 15 inch; min. temp. - 7°C. 4.8.2 Succulents 4.8.2.1 Succulents type – 15 ft. to 30 ft. Height i) Aloe ferox : Ht. - 15 ft.; spread - 16 ft.; min. temp. - 2°C; orange- red blooms appears in spring. ii) Aloe dichotoma : Ht. - 30 ft.; spread - 20 ft.; min. temp. - 7°C; yellow colour flower spicks appear in winter. iii) Crassula ovata : Ht. - 15 ft.; spread - 5 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; white flowers appears in late autumn. iv) Pachypodium lamerei : Ht. - 20 ft.; spread - 6 ft.; min. temp. - 10°C; fragrant flowers of white with sold throat in summer. v) Jatropha cordata : Ht. - 30 ft.; spread - 12 ft.; min. temp. - 7°C; flower in summer. 5.8.2.2 Succulents type – 10 ft. to below 15 ft. Height i) Kalanchoe beharensis : Ht. - 12 ft.; spread - 7 ft.; min. temp. - 7°C; yellow green flower appears in spring. ii) Crassula ovata : Ht. - 15 ft.; spread - 5 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; white, cluster of flower appears late autumn to mid. Winter. iii) C.arborescens : Ht. - 10 ft.; spread - 4 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; pink flowers appear in tale autumn. iv) Aloe karasbergensis : Ht. - 12 ft.; spread - 12 ft.; min. temp. - 7°C; pale pink to staw herry – red flowers in summer.
4.8.2.3 Succulents type – 5 ft. to below 10 ft. Height i) Agave americana Variegata : Ht. - 5 ft.; spread - 12 ft.; min. temp. -1°C; creamy white fragrant flowers, appears in spring to rainy season on 6 to 25ft tall, flower stem. ii) Aloe plicatilis : Ht. - 10 ft.; spread - 10 ft.; min. temp. - 7°C; orange or red colour flowers appears from spring to summer. iii) Crassula arborescens : Ht. - 10 ft.; spread - 4 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; pink flowers appears in late autumn. iv) Cyphostemma juttae : Ht. - 6 ft.; spread - 12 ft.; min. temp. - 10°C; pink to red flower appears in late spring. v) Euphorbia grandialata : Ht. - 6 ft.; spread - 8 ft.; min. temp. - 10°C; petalless flowers and coral red leaf bracts are produce in summer. 113 Landscaping vi) E.milli : Ht. - 6 ft.; spread - 5 ft.; min. temp. - 13°C; tiny white, gold, red, rose or orange leaf bracts open in summer. vii) Jatropha podagrica : Ht. - 5 ft.; spread - 2 ft.; min. temp. - 13°C; scarlet flowers appear from spring to summer regularly. viii) Pachypodium namaquanum : Ht. - 5 ft.; spread - 9 ft.; min. temp. - 10°C; small red-brown flowers appears in spring. ix) P. rosulatum : Ht. - 5 ft.; spread - 3 ft.; min. temp. - 13°C; canary yellow flowers appears in late winter & early spring. x) P.succulentum : Ht. - 5 ft.; spread - 6 ft.; min. temp. - 7°C; small, trumpet – shaped, white to crimson or pink flowers in spring & summer. xi) Pedilanthus tithymaloides Veriegata : Ht. - 9 ft.; spread - 5 ft.; min. temp. -13°C; greenish flowers and red to yellow bracts appear from summer to autumn. xii) Sedium frutecens : Ht. - 5 ft.; spread - 3 ft.; min. temp. - 7°C; Tiny white flowers in late spring.
4.8.2.4 Succulents type – 2 ft. to below 5 ft. Height i) Adenium obesum: Ht. - 4 ft.; spread - 15 inch; min. temp. - 16°C; pink, white or crimson flowers are produced from spring to autumn. ii) Aeonium arboretum Atropurpureum : Ht. - 3 ft.; spread - 4 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; yellow flowers appears in late winter to spring. iii) A. arboreum “Albovariegatum” : Ht. - 3 ft.; spread - 4 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; white, yellow or pink, red flowers appears in spring to autumn. iv) A.arboeum “Schwartzkopt”: Ht. - 3 ft.; spread - 4 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; yellow & white or pink, red flowers appears in spring to autumn. v) Agave parryi : Ht. - 2 ft.; spread - 4 ft.; min. temp. - °C; cluster of creamy yellow flowers appears on a 12 ft. tall flower spike in spring to autumn. vi) A. strica : Ht. - 2 ft.; spread - 5 ft.; min. temp. - 2°C; white flowers is produced on spike in spring to autumn. vii) Cotyledon undulata : Ht. - 2 ft.; spread - 4 ft.; min. temp. - 7°C; Orange to red flowers are produce on long stem in summer. viii) Crassula tetragona : Ht. - 2 ft.; spread – unlimited; min. temp. - 5°C; small cluster of white flowers appears in autumn. ix) Cryphostemma bainesii : Ht. - 2.5 ft.; spread - 2 ft.; min. temp. - 10°C; tiny greenish yellow flower are born in cluster in spring. x) Euphorbia neohumbertii: Ht. - 2 ft.; spread - 2 ft.; min. temp. - 10°C; small and green with red-tops, bracts appear in spring. xi) E. horriada : Ht. - 4 ft.; spread - 3 ft.; min. temp. - 10°C; small purple leaf bracts on upper ribs appears in summer. xii) Gasteria fuscopunctata : Ht. - 2 ft.; spread - 3 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; dainty, Pendent flowers of red-orange colour appear in spring. xiii) Kalenchoe tomentosa : Ht. - 2 ft.; spread - 2 ft.; min. temp. - 7°C; white, 114 yellow or orange flowers appears in spring. xiv) K. kevensis : Ht. - 2 ft.; spread - 2 ft.; min. temp. - 7°C; vivid pink flowers Cacti and Succulents Garden appear in the spring season. xv) K. tubiflora : Ht. - 2 ft.; spread – unlimited; min. temp. - 5°C; cluster of orange-red to purple flowers are produced in spring. xvi) Lampranthus spectabilis : Ht. - 2 ft.; spread – unlimited; min. temp. - 2°C; white to purple flowers appear in spring. xvii) L. aurantiacus : Ht. - 2 ft.; spread – unlimited; min. temp. - 5°C; orange flowers is produced is spring. xviii) Manadenium lugardae : Ht. - 2 ft.; spread - 3 ft.; min. temp. - 10°C; creamy, pink flowers appear in spring or summer. xix) Pachyphylum viridi: Ht. - 2 ft.; spread - 2 ft.; min. temp. - 7°C; white flower with wine-red petals in spring or early summer. xx) Sansevieria trifasciata “Lauretii” : Ht. - 4 ft.; spread – unlimited; min. temp. 13°C; pale green flowers appears in summer. xxi) Senecio articulatus : Ht. - 3 ft.; spread - unlimited; min. temp. - 5°C; flowers are foul – smelling, cream colour, appear in autumn.
4.8.2.5 Succulents type – 13 inches to 23 inches Height i) Agave pumila : Ht.- 15 inch; spread - 24 inch; min. temp. - 2°C. ii) Dudleya brittoni : Ht. - 15 inch; spread - 30 inch; min. temp. - 10°C; masses of pale yellow flowers appear in summer. iii) Echeveria painted Lady : Ht. - 15 inch; spread – unlimited; min. temp. - 5°C; Red blooms appear in summer.
4.8.2.6 Succulents type – 1 inch to 12 inches Height i) Adomischus cooper : Ht. - 4 inch; spread - unlimited; min. temp. - 5°C; pale green flowers appear in summer. ii) A. maculatus : Ht. - 4 inch; spread - unlimited; min. temp. - 5°C; pale to dark gray – green flower in summer. iii) Aeonium tabuliforme : Ht. - 2 inch; spread - 12 inch; min. temp. - 5°C; yellow flowers appear in summer. iv) Agave utahensis : Ht. - 12 inch; spread - 24 inch; min. temp. - 5°C; deep green yellow bloom appear in summer. v) A. parviflora : Ht. - 6 inch; spread - 9 inch; min. temp. - 2°C; green flowers on 4-6 ft. spike in summer. vi) A. victorios - Reginae : Ht. - 12 inch; spread - 24 inch, min. temp. - 2°C; cream flowers on 2-3 ft. spike in summer. vii) Aloe aristata : Ht. - 6 inch; spread - 3 ft.; min. temp. - 2°C; Orange – Red flowers are born of 3 ft. stem, in spring. viii) A. karasbergensis : Ht. - 12 inch; spread - 12 inch; min. temp. - 7°C; Pale pink to strawberry- red flowers on tall spike in summer. ix) A. variegata : Ht. - 9 inch; spread - 2 ft.; min. temp. - 7°C; salmon to scarlet blooms appear in spring. 115 Landscaping x) Brachystema barberae : Ht. - 1 inch; spread - 8 inch; min. temp. - 10°C; Scented, maroon to Chocolate colour flowers appear in spring and early summer. xi) Caralluma socotrana : Ht. - 6 inch; spread - 2 ft.; min. temp. - 10°C; Star shaped – purple to red flower appears in summer or autumn. xii) Conophytum : Ht. - 1 inch; spread - 4 inch; min. temp. - 6°C; Daisy like purple –pink flowers appear in autumn. xiii) C. bilolum : Ht. - 3 inch; spread - 7 inch; min. temp. - 6°C; yellow or copper - colour flower appear in summer. xiv) Cotyledon ladismithensis : Ht. - 12 inch; spread - 2 ft; min. temp. - 6°C; mustard to greenish brown flower appear in summer. xv) C. buchholziana : Ht. - 6 inch; spread - 15 inch; min. temp. - 6°C; rust or purple colour flowers appear in autumn. xvi) Crassula schinidtii : Ht. - 4 inch; spread – unlimited; min. temp. - 5°C; bright pink to red flowers in late autumn. xvii) C - falcata : Ht. - 9 inch, spread - 10 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; red to orange – red flowers appear in late summer. xviii) Dudleya hassei : Ht. - 9 inch; spread - 3 ft.; min. temp. - 7°C; cluster of white flowers born are 12 - inch spike, in pate winter. xix) Echiveria tundellii : Ht. - 5 inch; spread - 2 ft.; min. temp. - 2°C; brilliant flame – red and yellow flowers appear in summer. xx) E. elegans : Ht. - 3 inch; spread – unlimited; min. temp. - 5°C; pale yellow flowers appears in summer. xxi) Euphorbia francoisii : Ht. - 5 inch; spread - 15 inch; min. temp. - 10°C; yellow - green, kidney shape bracts appear in summer. xxii) E. obesa : Ht. - 8 inch; spread - 5 inch; min. temp. - 10°C. xxiii) Faucaria tuberculosa : Ht. - 4 inch; spread - 2 ft; min. temp. - 5°C; yellow flowers appear in autumn. xxiv) Gasteria armstrongii : Ht. - 9 inch; spread - 2 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; orange red flowers appears on spike in spring. xxv)G.obtusa : Ht. - 8 inch, spread - 3 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; flower orange or red on spike in spring. xxvi) Gibbaeum velutinum : Ht. - 5 inch; spread - 3 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; flower white to lavender or red in colour appear in spring and some time in autumn. xxvii) Graptopetalum bellum : Ht. - 4 inch; spread - 30 inch; min. temp. - 10°C; pint to clear red flowers appears in spring. xxviii) Graptoveria “Debbi” : Ht. - 6 inch; spread - 2 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; orange- red flowers appear in late summer. xxix) Howorthia pumila : Ht. - 6 inch; spread - 12 inch; min. temp. - 5°C; white flowers appears from spring to summer.
116 xxx) H. venosa : Ht. - 4 inch; spread - 12 inch; min. temp. - 5°C; white flowers Cacti and Succulents Garden appear from spring to summer. xxxi) Kalenchoe rhombopilosa : Ht. - 6 inch; spread - 15 inch; min. temp. - 7°C; greenish yellow flowers appears in spring. xxxii) Lithops aucampiae : Ht. - 1 inch, spread - 9 inch; min. temp. - 2°C; yellow daisy like flowers appear in early autumn. xxxiii) L. salicola : Ht. - 2 inch; spread - 9 inch; min. temp. - 2°C; white daisy like flowers appears in the early autumn. xxxiv) Monadenium guentheri : Ht. - 12 inch; spread - 4 ft.; min. temp. - 10°C; long greenish white with purple spots in summer. xxxv) Pachyphytum oviferum : Ht. - 6 inch; spread – unlimited; min. temp. - 6°C; flowers with powdery, gray-green sepals and red petals appears in spring and early summer. xxxvi) Sedium kamschalicum : Ht. - 3 inch; spread – unlimited; min. temp. - 35°C; golden or orange flowers appears in summer. xxxvii) S. nussbaumeranum : Ht. - 9 inch; spread – unlimited; min. temp. - 5°C; white flowers appears in spring. xxxviii) Sempervivium “Emersonscriant” : Ht. - 1 inch; spread - 2 ft.; min. temp. - 15°C; straw pink flowers appears in summers. xxxix) Scenecio haworthii : Ht. - 12 inch; spread - 3 ft.; min. temp. - 5°C; yellow daisy like flowers in spring & summer. xl) Senecio stapeliiformis : Ht. - 6 inch; spread – unlimited; min. temp. - 5°C; long-lasting scarlet flowers appear on short stalk in summer.
4.9 MAINTENANCE OF CACTI & SUCCULENT GARDEN
There are several operations which will be carried out time to time for the maintenance of garden and its proper development. These operations are described below: 4.9.1 Irrigation or Watering
Watering to cacti and succulents is a very important part of operation. Never overwater the cacti and succulents, it can cause roots rot and death of the plant. Cacti and succulents do not require regular watering in all the season. Majority of cacti need rest period during winter. During winter when they are on rest, they should be left for a longer period as a month without water, if temperature is very low in the garden. If your garden under slightly warmer place – irrigate the garden very lightly after 15 to 20 day. All succulents are also required less water in winter. Garden should be irrigated accordingly to the environmental temperature. But it will be crude for cacti and succulents garden, if it will not irrigated properly during the growing period of the garden plants i.e. from February to spraying. The cacti and succulents need irrigation once or twice a day during growing period. It will help proper growth.
117 Landscaping In July to September water the garden accordingly, need of the plants for good growth. As and when, whether become cooler, reduce the watering slowly and slowly till plants goes to resting periods. The water should be sufficient to soak all by soil and excessive water should be drained out freely of the garden soil. 4.9.2 Fertigation of Cacti and Succulent Garden
Cacti and succulents are hungry plants and require regular feeding during the growing season with a balance range of minerals. These fertilizers are Nitrogen (N); for vigorous top-growth, potassium (K); to encourage flowers and fruit, and Phosphorus (P); for good root growth. These are called major Nutrients. Beside these all minor or trace, elements are also essential for proper growth of plants.
Fertilizers may be organic or inorganic and are available in granular, powder, liquid or solid form. Some of the organic fertilizers such as seaweed are rich in trace elements required for healthy growth; others can be deficient is some of the trace elements. Therefore it is necessary to supplement such fertilizers with extra minerals.
Cacti and succulent require feeding in two stages. Add a powder or granular fertilizer to soil media at planting time or during the annual renovation of a permanent bed or garden.
After this, apply either liquid or solid fertilizers throughout the growing season, generally in spring and summer, to allow the plants new growth to ripen in autumn.
Cacti and succulents respond well to liquid fertilizers consist of 15 % nitrogen, 15 % potassium, 30 % phosphorus, and all the trace elements, used at half the normal strength.
Fertilizers that a deficient in nitrogen cause stunted growth in cacti and succulents after prolonged use. Which are overfed with nitrogen grow thin and do not flower well, while succulents produce spindly growth.
Succulents Garden with Different types
4.9.3 Handling of Cacti and Succulents
Many opuntia species, some cacti etc. and some succulents, like Pachyphytum species and Adromischus species, have segments and leaves which easily break 118 off if they are roughly handled. Handle them carefully. Some cacti and succulents have a waxy coating on the leaves or stem which brush off when touched, leaving Cacti and Succulents Garden permanent finger prints on leaves on stem. Gripping these plants by their base will limit this. Many succulents, Euphorlia species, especially, have poisonous or caustic sap. The gardeners should wear glover and eye protection when pruning these plants. Wash off sap that does come in contact with the skin with alcohol, followed by washing with soap and water. Tongs, heavy gloves, or a sleaves of paper or thick fabric can be used to maintained these species. 4.9.4 Pruning
To look attractive and grow well, most succulents and some cacti, particularly Epiphytes, benefit from some shaping and restriction to their growth by pruning to make them bushier and more compact. The other utility of pruning is to remove any unproductive growth which harm the vigor of the plant. Prune shrilly succulents at the start of the growing season, winter - flowering succulents in summer, and Epiphytic cacti such as Ephiphyllum after flowering. Pruning tools are vary from knives to scissor, secateurs, or for the earnest job, a pruning saw is used in the garden. These tools should be very sharp, so they will cut the plant rather than crush the tissue. These told should also be kept clean and sterilized, to avoid spreading bacteria infection and fungi or viruses diseases at the time of pruning from one plant to another plant. Cut back shrubby plant just above the shoot or outward facing bud. Some creeping or mounding plants look healthier if old, foliage beneath the new growth is removed. Cut back the longer stems of trailing plant that have outgrown their hanging baskets to encourage new bushier growth near the base. Eventually, plants that have been regularly pruned will become woody; use some of the prunings to root as cuttings to develop new plant, to replace the old plant. 4.9.5 Plant Hygiene
Good hygiene maintains both the appearance and vigor of plants. Outdoor plants of garden in hot areas with low rainfall tend to become dusty; clean spiny plants with a soft brush or spray non hairy plants thoroughly with a hose or a mist – sprayer. If the plants are very dirty, spray it with a teaspoon of liquid soap in 1 pint (600 ml) of water. Dead head plants after flowering, unless they have decorative seedpods, and remove unsightly foliage. To prevent disease cut out any damaged areas of cactus stems with sharps pruners or a knife, leaving a smooth clean would surface that can heal easily. Remove the dead leaves or shoots which harbor posts and diseases. Pull of leaves from rosette - shaped succulents or with thumb and forefinger, pinchout shoots above the healthy joints. The leaves of succulents should be cleaned on regularly intervals with thrive well and look more attractive and healthy in the garden.
4.10 PROPAGATION
There two type of propagation methods, sexual propagation by seed and Asexual method of propagation, by vegetative part of the plant, clump division, in cacti and succulents. 119 Landscaping 4.10.1 Sexual Method of Propagation
It is take place with help of seed. It is generally used to produced new types in cacti & succulents. Many cacti and succulents cannot fertilize their own flowers. To produce seed, pollination must be taken place from the flowers of one plant to another. This is done in the outdoors cacti and succulent gardens by wind, insects, bats or birds. If the two plants of same species results in new plants similar to the parents and this type of seed in known as self seed.
To create new hybrid forms, transfer pollen from one flower of one species to the bloom of a different species in the same genus. Before crossing it remove the all the unripe stamens of flower to which you are going to pollinate. It is known as female and from which you have taken pollen known as male parent and seed produce by crossing to both is known as hybrid seed which give new types on germination. 4.10.2 Asexual Method of Propagation
It takes place by the division of any part of the plants. Some methods given below-
4.10.2.1 By Cutting
Cutting provide a quick and easy method of propagating cacti and succulents, especially the hybrids, which do not produce similar off spring from seed. Most of the plants can be increase by stem cutting of stem section, and some succulents also produce from leaf cutting. The best time to take cutting is when a plant start into active growth. i) Leaf Cutting : Succulents such as Gasteria & some Howerthia root readily from leaf cuttings. Put the cutting in pot containing potting mixture and treated with any fungicide solution like. Captan or Bauistinu (1 %). The leaves of succulent such as Crassula, Echiveria and Kalanchoe can also be used for propagation. ii) Stem Cutting or Section : Most succulents, except for Caudiciform species, and many cacti, including Epiphytes species can be commercially propagated from stem cutting and section of the stem. Very slow-growing plants are not usually good subjects for sections because they tend to rot. 4.10.2.2 By Division
In this technique, a vigorous plant is divided into several pieces each of which has either its on roots or growing points. It is simple and quick way to obtain new plants of a good size. Cacti and Succulents both propagated by this method in spring and summer. i) Chimping Offsets : Succulents like Howarthia, Gasteria, Aloe, etc. and some cacti such as Mammillia and Echinopsis etc are multiplied on commercial scale in spring and summer. ii) Offsets Tubers : Some succulents such as Senecio and Ceropegia have tuberous roots and form offset tubers just below soil level. These can be gently detached or separated with a knife and planted separately in pot with potting mixture, these will produce new plants. 120 iii) Division of Rootstocks : Some Cacti and succulents like Sansevieria, species, Cacti and Succulents Garden Aloe species, some Sedium etc are propagated by this method of root division of clumps.
4.10.2.3 By Grafting
This methods is generally used in cacti for those species cannot develop proper size on itself roots. When these cacti are grafted on root stock, they grow fast and develop good size within one or two years which is not possible on self root. It is taken place in spring and summer.
4.11 PLANTS PROBLEMS / ENEMIES
The most dangerous enemies of cacti and succulents are different type of diseases that cause the stems and roots to decay in excessive humid condition. The other problems of the plants are harmful insects and pests. Most of the insect, pest, attack to cacti and succulents are similar to those of other ornamental and indoor plants. 4.11.1 Diseases of Cacti and Succulents
The cacti and succulents suffer mainly by from fugal diseases. Fungal sports are present in the atmosphere and attack plants in damp or humid / wet condition to cacti and succulents due to the more irrigation in spring when new growth start and in the dormancy period. The main diseases of these plants are discussed below :
4.11.1.1 Basal and Root – Rot
In damp condition the fungus penetrate to the roots of cacti and succulents plants very rapidly by from the skin into the tissue, turning then soft, black and causes plant death.
Control : i) Remove healthy branches of plants, treat it with fungicide and rooting harmous, and plant it into new pot-mixture to develop root and new plant. ii) The affected & dead part of the plant should be burn or dump in the soil after treating it with fungicide.
4.11.1.2 Fungal Leaf Spots
Brown or gray spots appears on the leaves of Succulent plants and cause leaf fall.
Control : Treat the plant with any fungicide like coper sulphate, Captan, Bavistin etc. and remove all infected leaves of plant to dump them in deep soil or burn them.
4.11.1.3 Shooty Mold
It is caused by the soil born fungus in very wet condition and damaged the plant, specially seedling stage. 121 Landscaping Control : Treat the soil & plant with systematic fungicide and discard the infected seedling, to control the disease.
4.11.1.4 Corks Scab
The brown bark like spots develop near the base of stem of plants, are a result of past disease damage or poor cultivation.
Control : Improve the growing conditions of the plants, the spots should not re- appear and spraying with any fungicide in useful. 4.11.2 Insect, Pest of Cacti & Succulents
4.11.2.1 Mealy Bugs
It is very common for cacti & succulents and found scattered all over plant body and suck the juee of the plant to harm it. If off season it rest in the soil.
Control : Spray with any insecticide like Metacystox, Rogor etc with light doses help to control the insect. Soil drench with any strong systemic insecticide is essential to control the insect.
4.11.2.2 Aphid
Small, brown, black bodies attack the tender part of the plants, leaf or flower etc. & suck the shape of the plant, causing to it harm.
Control: Spray with any insecticide like, Melathion & Rogor etc.
4.11.2.3 Scale
Different type of brown in colour scale attack the different part of the plant and damage its skin by sucking its shape to harm the plants.
Control : Spraying with pesticide and systemic insecticide to control it.
4.11.2.4 Spider Mites
These are pin head like bodies, attack cacti & succulents, forming dense webbing over the plant & destroy the epidermis of the plant. Under sever attack plant can die.
Control : Spraying with any miticide or dusting with sulphar, help to control it.
4.11.2.5 Thrips
It attack the appical part of the plants to destroy it growth & latter on attack on of other tender parts like flower buds etc. It can move to other plant to harm.
Control : Spray with Rogor, Metacystoe, Malathion etc to control it. It require regular spray with these insecticides till it over at intervals of 7-10 day.
122 4.11.3 Cultural damage of Cacti and Succulents Cacti and Succulents Garden
4.11.3.1 Cold Damage
The cold temperature can effect stem, tip damage, scarring or even stem collapse in succulents. Some time in too cold, affected areas of the plant rot.
Control : Increase temperature if possible by burning dry grass etc. and cut out all the damaged parts of the plants and spray with any fungicide.
4.11.3.2 Drought Damage
If the plants are starved of water, leafy succulents shad their leaves, this start to die back from the stem tips or shad their branches and ultimately die.
Control : Watering usually reverses this process of decling. Cacti shrink into dormancy in a drought cut rejuvenate rapidly once watered.
4.11.3.3 Scorch Damage
Strong winds, or sudden bright sun-shine on dewy plants of cacti and succulents can cause sunken brown patches where the tissue has collapsed.
Control : Harden them off in shading net, or protect them with fabric of flexible mesh can control this problem.
Check Your Progress Exercise 2 Note : a) Space is given below for answers. b) Compare your answer with that given at the end of the unit. 1) Name two Cacti each of more than 25 ft. and above, 15 to 24 ft. and 3 to 5 ft. of height and succulent with 5 to 10 ft. height...... 2) When Cacti in dormancy require heavy irrigation or less / no irrigation ? ...... 3) When Cacti & Succulents require extra fertilizer ? ...... 123 Landscaping 4) What are the Asexual method of Propagation ? ...... 5) What are the problem or enemies harm the Succulents and Cacti ? ......
4.12 LET US SUM UP
In this unit, you have studied about the development of Cacti and Succulent gardens. We have discussed in detail in this unit all the essential environmental factor to develop such garden, essential equipments and material require for these gardens development. The planning of garden plantation and requirement of different type cacti and succulents plants with their height, flowering time and other habit, which are important to known before their plantation in the garden, have been described in details. How you will maintained these garden and control its day to day problems also have been discussed under this unit.
4.13 KEY WORDS Xerophytes : The plants adapted to dry or desert condition to survive are collectively known as “Xerophytes”. Areole : This is actually a modified leaf bud, on a cactus from which grow its spines, leaves, side shoots or flowers. They are known as cushion like growing points on cacti. Gloches : Little tufts of barbed bristles or hairs. Epiphytes : Plants which grow up on another plant without living as parasite, are known as Epiphytes. Tissue : Complex of cell carrying out an identical function in an organ. Hybrid : When F1 seed produce by cross fertilization within two species, this seed in known as hybrid seed or seed and plants produce from these seed are known as Hybrid plants. Spine : A modified leaf, which can be needle like, barbed, curved, hair like or bristly found in Cacti and Succulents. 124 Scion : A shoot or a bud or young plant which is use in Asexual Cacti and Succulents Garden method of multiplication of plants for grafting on root stock for propagation. Rootstock : A vigorous plant used for grafting a scion under vegetative propagation method. pH : It is a Horticultural unit to measure Acidity or Alkalinity of soil or water known as pH. pH-7 means neutral; below pH-7 it is acidic and above pH-7 is alkaline texture of soil or water. EC : Electric conductivity of soil or water. Generally, plants require for good growth EC=1.
4.14 FURTHER REFERENCES 1) Terry Hewitt : The complete book of cacti and succulents. 2) Dorling Kindersley : Pocket Encyclopedia of house plants. 3) Mariella Pizzetti : The Macdonald Encyclopedia of Cacti. 4) Miles Anderson: The world Enecyclopedia of Cacti and Succulents. 4.15 ANSWERS TO CHECK YOUR PROGRESS EXERCISES
Check Your Progress Exercise 1 1) The Cacti and Succulents which grow in such areas where sun light is filtered through a thick tree canopy and are provided with moisture from atmosphere and regular rainfall. These cacti and succulent in such region, have adopted, to survive in less light rather than water and can also survive in period of drought. Such Cacti and Succulents are known as jungle Cacti and Succulents. 2) Essential equipment require to develop a Cacti and Succulents garden are – all purpose knife, Retractable – Blade knife; Gloves; Dibber; spoon; Hand Hoe; Widger; Wide – Bladed Trawel; Narrow – Bladed Trawel; Pruners or Secateur, Folding pruning saw; Brushes; Plant lable; Seed – Tray; Minimum – Maximum thermometer; Moisture meter and pH – Testing paper. 3) Ideal pH range for Cacti and Succulents is 5.0 to 6.5. 4) The best time to plant Cacti and Succulents in the garden is spring to summer. Check Your Progress Exercise 2 1) Cacti and Succulent with height : Cacti : 25 ft. – Cereus Velidus (25 ft.) and Perskia Aculeata (30 ft.). 15 to 24 ft. – Opentia neoargentina (15 ft.) and Pachy cereus Schottii (20 ft.). 3 to 5 ft. – Cleistocactus winteri (3 ft.) and Opuntiatunica (3 ft.). Succulents: 5 to 10 ft. – Euphorbia Grandialata (6 ft.) and Crassuala arborescens (10ft) 125 Landscaping 2) Under dormancy condition Cacti require no water or very less water for irrigation. 3) During active growth in spring and summer all cacti and succulents require extra dose of fertilizer for better growth. 4) Asexual methods of propagation of cacti & succulents are – By stem Cutting; By leaf cutting; By division of clump, roots or tubers and by grafting. 5) The problem or enemies harm the succulents and Cacti are – Aphids (Greenfly), Mealy bugs, Scale, Spider Mites, Thrips and Whiteflies.
126 UNIT 5 TERRARIUM, BOTTLE GARDEN Cacti and Succulents Garden AND TRAY LANDSCAPE GARDEN
Structure 5.0 Objectives 5.1 Introduction 5.2 Types of Indoor Landscape Gardens 5.2.1 Terrarium Gardens 5.2.1.1 What is Terrarium? 5.2.1.2 Size of Terrarium 5.2.1.3 Shape of Terrarium 5.2.1.4 Function of Terrarium 5.2.1.5 Selection of Plants for Terrarium 5.2.1.6 Tools and Equipments for Terrarium 5.2.1.7 Preparation of Terrarium 5.2.1.8 Climate for Terrarium 5.2.1.9 Plant Grouping 5.2.1.10 Planting of Terrarium 5.2.1.11 Irrigation of Terrarium 5.2.1.12 After care of Terrarium 5.2.2 Bottle Gardens 5.2.2.1 What is a Bottle Garden? 5.2.2.2 Function of Bottle Gardens 5.2.2.3 Selection of Plants for Bottle Gardens 5.2.2.4 Tools and Equipments for Bottle Gardens 5.2.2.5 Climatic Conditions for Bottle Gardens 5.2.2.6 Planting of Bottle Gardens 5.2.2.7 Irrigation of Bottle Gardens 5.2.2.8 After care of Bottle Gardens 5.2.3 Tray Landscape Gardens 5.2.3.1 Selection of Tray for Landscape Gardening 5.2.3.2 Preparation of Media or Soil for Tray Garden 5.2.3.3 Selection of Plants for Tray Gardens 5.2.3.4 Grouping of Plants for Tray Gardens 5.2.3.5 Plantation of Plants in Tray Gardens 5.2.3.6 Protection of Tray Garden from Enemies 5.2.3.7 After care of Tray Gardens 5.3 Let Us Sum up 5.4 Key Words 5.5 Further References 5.6 Answers to Check Your Progress Exercises
127 Landscaping 5.0 OBJECTIVES
After going through this unit, you will be in a position to: explain the different types of indoor landscape gardens i.e. Terrarium, Bottle & Tray landscape gardens, discuss about the containers to develop these gardens, essential tools and equipments require for these garden development, preparation of soil media and development of landscape of containers for plantation, essential plants require for these gardens, and plantation and irrigation methods of these gardens, and after care of these gardens. 5.1 INTRODUCTION
You have learnt in earlier units of this block about the other type of landscape gardens. In this unit you will study some other specific gardens like terrarium, bottle gardens and tray landscape gardens which are very useful for interior decoration of house. These gardens can be display in the houses, offices or hotels etc. These gardens are symbolic of beauty, love and tranquility. They form a soul of a house and convey the message of nature in mini- form to man.
Interior decoration of house with plants and miniature landscaping is granting popularity these days when most of the people do not have open space in their houses. Some special features of gardening play a very important role to develop attractive- mini-garden inside a house. These special features are known as “Terrarium” (glass cases), bottle garden or aquarium and a beautiful mini landscape in tray or a dish, or bowl. With the help of these features, it is possible to create a delightful miniature landscape inside the house. Here in this unit we will discuss all these things with you. What are the requirement, plants used in these gardens, how to develop this type of gardens within a containers and how to maintain these type of gardens inside of a beautiful house. It is an exciting hobby to plan the long lasting special features of the garden inside the house, according to their size and shape. These types of gardens are very important for multistoried residences and hotels etc., where people do not have any outer open space to develop a garden. People can develop these features easily in their houses by using the following plan of work, which we will discuss with you under this unit.
5.2 TYPES OF INDOOR LANDSCAPE GARDENS
These landscape features are of different type, it can be developed in a different size of glass case, bottle garden which is known as terrarium and a beautiful mini-landscaping in a tray or dish or a bowl. 5.2.1 Terrarium Gardens
When a landscaping is done under a glass case, box or in a large glass bottle with round month known as terrarium or bottle garden developed with plants. Terrarium 128 feature can be developed in different forms. Its size can be varying according to Terrarium, Bottle Garden the requirements. and Tray landscape Garden
5.2.1.1 What is Terrarium ?
When we develop a beautiful landscape within a glass case is called terrarium. In a terrarium suitable plants can flourish in a small containers world and the growing requirements of plants being recycled by plant.
5.2.1.2 Size of Terrarium
Terrarium feature can be developed in different forms and size. It may be squire, round, flat etc., depends on their choice and availability of space in your house. Generally the convenient size being 1 meter length x 0.5 meter width x 0.5 meter height.
5.2.1.3 Shape of Terrarium
The terrarium are available in different shape with the market. But, sloping roof instead of a flat one is a good option. It has a glass cover at the top which can be removed occasionally for ventilation, which is necessary for the plant growth.
5.2.1.4 Function of Terrarium
Terrarium is a closed feature, hence, the plant do not require frequent watering, as the moisture developed from the transpiration of leaves and evaporation from the soil, again becomes available to the plants for their functions. This way by keeping the plants in enclosed containers, drought is excluded and high humidity can be maintained.
5.2.1.5 Selection of Plants for Terrarium
Plants to be selected for a terrarium are very limited. The plants should be such types which do not require pruning frequently. For this region you can use suitable plants. Succulents and quick growing plants are not suitable for the terrarium. Flowering plants are not suitable too, as the faded flowers of it become difficult to remove and it left inside become a sources of diseases due to rotting. Only small rooted cuttings or offshoots should be planted. The suitable plants for terrarium are as follow: Begonia-rex : only small leaved varieties or forms. Begonia ‘Tiger paws’, Eyelash begonia. Cryplanthus Aculis : It makes a compact rosette of leaves of mild-green in above portion and with white marking beneath. Selaginella Krassiana : Moss-like growth and branching, prostrate stem, ideal for covering the surface of the terrarium or bottle garden compost. Eg. S. martensii- ‘club moss’. Pellionia Pulchera : Creeping plant with dark leaves. Morenta Cenconcura : Very good, slow growing having attractive foliage. Fern: Silver ferm and several small types with smell leaves are ideal as Adiantum raddianum, A. hispiodium, Pellaca rotundifola etc. 129 Landscaping Fitonia verschaffetti var.argyroneura : This small form is best having bright green leaves with white veins. Dracaena Sandariana : A slender, fairly slow growing plant with narrow leaves with white spots. Chamadorea : A small palm with slender stem and narrow foliage, an ideal dominant plant for mixed group of terrarium or bottle garden. Eg C. elegans ‘Bella’, Parlour palm. Acorus Gramineous Variegatus : A tufted grass like plant with creamy variegated leaves and tolerant to a fair amount of water in the soil. Hypoestes phyllostachya: Polka- dot plant’ Sinningia Pusilla (miniature Gloxinias) : Small flowering plants can be planted, and replaced when they have faded.
5.2.1.6 Tools and equipments for Terrarium
Following tools and equipments for preparation of a terrarium are required: 1) Terrarium structure (glass cases). 2) Gravel. 3) Charcoal. 4) Peat based potting mixture. 5) Miniature trowel. 6) A cane with a cotton reel to push firmly, on one end and a wooden lath (danda) of 1 inch length, pointed at other end. 7) Small plastic tools-a spade one end and a fork at the other. 8) The cotton reel is used to firm down the soil. 9) Lath (danda) one end flat, used to push the soil and pointed end to make the hole in the soil to accommodate the plants easily. 5.2.1.7 Preparation of Terrarium
When a suitable container has been selected for terrarium, place a layer of gravel, about 1 to 2 cm high on the bottom and cover it with a thin layer of broken charcoal, for the proper drainage of water. On top of it, put a thick layer about 3 to 5 cm of peat-based potting compost mixture prepared for terrarium (1-part
130 Terrarium fibrous loam + 2-part peat +1-part of coarse sand). Firm, the compost mixture Terrarium, Bottle Garden with cotton reel fixed at the end of a thin bamboo cane. Now miniature landscape and Tray landscape Garden can be carried out inside the terrarium with the help of stone pieces or slate strategically placed to mark a garden like appearance or effect. Do not used wood, as this will rot quickly and can spread fungus infection to the plants in a terrarium.
5.2.1.8 Climate for Terrarium
The terrarium requires, warm-filtered sun light. A warm room is one keep at temperature of 15-21°C, the range preferred by many popular house plants, but all plants can tolerate a slightly higher or lower, level for a short time. A normal heating system prevents temperature falling below 15°C.
A room receiving filtered sun may face south east (or west for south east or south west) but direct sun light is baffled by translucent blind or curtain, a tall building or leafy tree out side the window. This type of arrangement of climate known as mini-climate-2 which a terrarium need for better development and maintenance.
5.2.1.9 Plant Grouping
The grouping of plants would be easier if a dominating plant is positioned at one side and at least one trailing plant is selected for the front. Not too many plants should be introduced, about time or six are enough.
5.2.1.10 Planting of Terrarium
To start planting from outside of the terrarium and avoid dropping of soil on those already planted. Push the roots ball through the aperture, then hold plant by its leaves, push it gentle and left it drop. It can then be pushed into the hole with cane cover the roots with terrarium mixture and use the cotton reel to make the plants firm in the soil eg.
A) Small Terrarium or A Pagoda If you choose a small terrarium like small “Pagoda” such as in this pagoda grouping one species together-like hypoestes phyllostachya-plant will make an effective, unchuttered display.
B) Large size Terrarium
In such type terrarium plantation has been described below: 1) First of all line the terrarium with 2 cm of grand spread lumps of charcoal over it and then fill with 5 cm of peat-based potting mixture. Place some of the plants you have chosen inside the terrarium and plant your group. Make a depression in the potting mixture ready for the first plant. 2) Plant, the tallest plant like Parlour palm, spreading the roots out horizontally and gently packing potting mixture around the roots. Plant another palm at the back of the terrarium of the left side. Then, below, place a begonia next to a club moss.
131 Landscaping 3) Put another club moss in the front of the terrarium and a spreading club behind the larger palm to give the arrangement more bulk. Then fill the remaining spaces around the palm with Palka-dot plant and decorate any bare area of potting mixture with gravel.
5.2.1.11 Irrigation of Terrarium
After planting of the terrarium, moist the surface of the soil carefully without disturbing the plant. It can be done by-mist spray plants and potting mixture and close any aperture in order to make the atmosphere more humid. A long base is ideal for directing the water down inside to clean glass walls. The glass may be closed over after a short time (5-6 minute). The stopper should be replaced when the condensation has cleared. Further, watering may not be necessary because the vapors given by the inside plants transpiration are recirculated and the terrarium garden becomes self maintaining.
Plants have been known to flourish in the terrarium for several years with no extra water added from the time of planting, if the mouth of terrarium is covered. If the mouth of terrarium is open, a small cup full of water or less according to the size, every month or so in summer is desirable.
5.2.1.12 After care of the Terrarium 1) Dead leaves from the terrarium should be removed by cutting them with a piece of Razor blade wired to a cane. 2) Keep the terrarium out of direct sun light but make sure that it is good in indirect light. 3) In case of large mouth terrarium same principle is applied, but with less trouble then in a bottle garden. 4) Terrarium need to be cleaned regularly to remove build ups of condensation or algae from the inside surface of the glass. This can be easily done using a small sponge attached to a bamboo stalk.
Check Your Progress Exercise 1 Note : a) Space is given below for answers. b) Compare your answer with that given at the end of the unit. 1) What is a Terrarium ? ...... 2) Describe the function of a terrarium......
132 ...... 3) Write down the names of any five plants used in a terrarium plantation. Terrarium, Bottle Garden and Tray landscape Garden ...... 4) How will you maintain terrarium ? ...... 5.2.2 Bottle Gardens
Bottle gardens provide optimum growing condition for plants which like a humid atmosphere, since the moisture given off by the leaves of the plants inside condenses and run back into the soil. Any type of bottle is suitable, provided plant can be passed through the neck of bottle. If you will use a bottle made of colored glass, you should keep it or move it into bright light then would be normal for the plants inside to compensate for this, to carry out essential function by inside plants.
Bottle Garden
5.2.2.1 What is a Bottle Garden ?
When a landscape or garden developed inside a bottle is known as bottle garden. For this purpose any type of bottle can be used provided plants can be passed through the neck of bottle, to develop garden inside generally. A transparent white glass bottle is used to develop a bottle garden, because through transparent glass proper light will pass inside the bottle, so that plants planted in the bottle, 133 Landscaping can do their functions normally. If a dark color glass bottle is used to develop bottle garden, than you should keep bottle in bright light to carry out inside plants, their function of life cycle.
Bottle Garden
5.2.2.2 Function of Bottle Gardens
Principal function of bottle garden is same as in case of terrarium gardens. The plants planted inside the bottle do not require frequent watering, as the moisture developed inside the bottle from the transpiration of inside plants leaves and soil, again become available to the inside plants for their functions.
5.2.2.3 Selection of Plants for Bottle Gardens
Choice of plants for bottle gardens is very limited, those plants should be selected which do not require pruning and with slow growing habits. As it is difficult to prune and remove plants from the bottle gardens. Always transplants such plants in bottle gardens which have slow-growing habit. If you want your garden to look attractive for a year or more, follow this process. Tempting as it may be to plant Saintpaulia hybrids (African violets), it is not a good idea since, once the flowers fade, they can look very dull. It is best to create a colorful effect by using plants with variegated leaves and to build an interesting group with contrasts of shape and texture. Some plants for bottle garden are suggested below: Adiantum Raddianum Microphylum - Maiden hair fern. Fittonia Verschaffeltii. Fittonia Verschaffeltii - Argyroneura “Nana” little snakeskin plant. Adiantum Hispidulum - Australian maiden hair fern. Selaginella Krassiana. Chamaedora sp. Acorus Gramineous “Variegatus”. etc. 6.2.2.4 Tools and equipments for Bottle Gardens
The following tools and equipments are required for bottle garden development: 1) Glass bottle 134 2) Funnel Terrarium, Bottle Garden and Tray landscape Garden 3) Circular paper 4) Sphagnum-moss 5) Clay pellets 6) Peat-based potting mixture 7) Miniature trowel 8) Charcoal 9) Spoon 10) Fork 11) Spool 12) Sponge 5.2.2.5 Climatic Conditions for Bottle Gardens
Climatic conditions for bottle gardens are similar as for terrarium.
5.2.2.6 Planting of Bottle Gardens
To plant a landscape garden in a bottle, select such type slow growing plants with variegated leaves, which do not require pruning, as it is difficult to prune and remove plants from the bottle garden.
When you are going to plant a bottle garden follow the following principles after selecting a suitable bottle for gardening.
1) Cut a circular of paper the same size as the planting area of the bottle selected for gardening and experiment the design of garden, until you are happy with it. Place the taller plants at the back and the low-growing ones in the foreground.
2) Pour a 3 cm layer of clay pellets into the bottle through a funnel made of stiff paper. Add a handful of charcoal, and fill the bottle 5-7 cm of damp peat-based potting mixture. Build up the potting mixture at the back and use the spoon to smooth out the surface.
3) Make a hole for plantation of first plant. Take a Maiden hair fern and stick the fork into the root ball and lower it into the hole to plant it in the media of bottle garden. Cover the root ball with potting mixture and firm down the mixture around it. Put another Maiden hair fern at the back and then add an Australian maiden hair, to vary the out line. Leave about 3 cm between them to allow room for growth.
4) Place the little snakeskin plant in the foreground. Then, to give the arrangement a focal point, plant a snakeskin plant in the centre. Finally, decorate any bare area with sphagnum moss, and pour in a cup of water by directing against the glass. You can cork the bottle but it will make the glass-mist up more quickly. Now your bottle garden becomes ready to display in the house.
135 Landscaping 5.2.2.7 Irrigation of Bottle Gardens
After planting of the bottle garden, moist the surface of the soil (inside the bottle) carefully without disturbing the plants. It can be done by mist-spraying on the plants and on potting mixture of bottle garden. Now you can cork the bottle, but it makes the glass of bottle mist up more quickly. Further watering of bottle garden may not be necessary because the vapors given by the plants of bottle garden are re-circulated and the garden become self-maintaining for their irrigation.
Plants have been known to flourish in the bottle gardens for several months without extra water added from the time of planting. If the mouth of a bottle garden is open, a small cup of water or less according to the size, every month or so in summer is desirable.
5.2.2.8 After care of Bottle Garden 1) Keep the bottle garden out of direct sunlight, but make sure that it is receiving good indirect light. 2) Bottle garden also need to be cleaned on regular intervals to remove the condensation or algae from the inside surface of bottle glass, to receive proper light for photosynthesis and respiration etc. It can be easily done using small sponge attached to a bamboo stalk. 3) Dead leaves or flowers from the bottle garden should be removed by cutting them with a piece of razor blade wire to a cane. If these dead leave will not be removed, that can bring fungus on rotting, inside the bottle garden and this will harm the bottle garden plants. 5.2.3 Tray Landscape Gardens
This type of gardening is most suitable for multistory residences or small houses and even for large house. Generally, indoor plants, cacti and succulents etc. are ideal plants to carryout this type of gardening. The ideal places in a house for decoration of a tray landscape garden are drawing room, table, corners, dinning table side etc. Generally these types of gardens have no drainage hole for water and can be kept on any shining surface without fear of spoiling through seepage of water.
Tray Garden with Foliage Flowering Plants Tray Garden with Cacti and Succulents 136 5.2.3.1 Selection of Tray for Landscape Gardening Terrarium, Bottle Garden and Tray landscape Garden To develop such type of gardens, selection of a right type of tray is very important, keeping in mind whether it has to be placed. You can select a wooden tray or plastic or metal tray or bread tray or potting tray or unbreakable glass tray etc. for developing a landscape gardening.
5.2.3.2 Preparation of Media or Soil for Tray Gardens
For tray gardens, potting mixture consist of an initial thin layer of gravel and few charcoal chips, followed by compost consisting of equal part of good garden loam, peat, leaf mould and soil. A slop should be kept from centre to periphery with the help of compost on the surface of sand, gravels, small stones or pebbles can be arranged to perfect the top soil, from washed off, while watering these gardens. The ideal mixture for a tray garden of Cacti or Succulent, should consist 2 - part each of soil, fine leaf mould, sand or crushed brick, and 1 - part each of old lime scraped from wall and crushed wood charcoal.
5.2.3.3 Selection of Plants for Tray Gardens
The other important part to develop such type of gardens is selection of planting material. It should be done with extreme care. The plants have same identical condition should be planted in each tray garden. For example, if you are going to develop a tray garden of a Cacti and Succulent, do not plant any foliage type plant, it require different type of climatic condition than Cacti and Succulents. Cactus need sunny and dry growing condition, and therefore, if these are grouped in same tray with shade and moisture loving foliage plants such as Fittnia- verschaffetti or Pepromia argyreia the result will be disastrous. Generally, indoor plants are grown in such type of gardens with their identical nature. They needs light which some times may be in the diffused form. Besides indoor plants Cacti and Succulents are also ideal for tray garden, but plant both types, in separate containers instead of putting them together. A desert scene can be created in such type of gardens by planting suitable Cacti or Succulents amidst small pieces of stone and pebbles. Some extra space should be left for the growth of these plants in your tray garden, to avoid over crowding. It would be ideal to include a few flowering species of cacti to develop such type Cacti and Succulent garden.
5.2.3.4 Grouping of Plants for Tray Gardens
To develop a flourishing and attractive tray landscape garden, plants should be grouped as follow: Group – A : Cacti and Succulents: some are as : i) Cacti : Heleocerous, Brozicactus, Notocactus, lobiria, mamillaria and Parodia etc. are some flowering cacti suitable for dish or tray garden, the 1st two tall species are ideal for back ground. Ferocactus, Opentia, Echinacactus, Cereus, Cephalocereus and Trichocereus, Cephalocereus and Oreocereus are non flowering attractive form. ii) Succulents : The tall flowering succulents like Crassula, Colyledon, Euphorbia splendens, Gasteria, Kalenchoe Sedum, Aloe variegata etc. are most suitable for tray garden in flowering forms while Nawarthiag Agav and Echerearia are smaller species (dwarf type) of flowering succulents to develop such type beautiful garden in a tray. 137 Landscaping Group – B : For large size arrangement in tray, the following combinations are ideal.
i) Combination - 1 : Aralia egantissima, Dracaecna, Sanderiana, Hedera nelix, Santipaulia, Pepromia variegata and Syngonium podophyllum etc.
ii) Combination - 2 : Aphdandra squarrosa, Dracaena, Sanderiana, Ficus benjamina, Pilea muscosa, Pepromia argyreria and Zebbrina pendula etc.
Group – C : For smaller size, tray garden arrangements, ideal plants are Chlorophytum, Comosum, Vittatum, Begonia rex, Pepromia rotundifola and African violet etc.
5.2.3.5 Plantation of Plants in Tray Gardens
At the time of plantation of a tray gardens, the tall plants species should be used a back ground while the small one can be put in the front to develop natural and contrasting effects in your tray garden. When you are using foliage plants, a hedge should be planted on periphery with some slow growing bushy foliage plants, then plant other plants as mentioned above. You can also use some small artificial structures like, hut, animal, water channel etc. for land scaping of your tray garden.
Another idea in such gardening is to insert glass or metallic florist tubes into the compost for display of cut flowers, which enhance the beauty of the garden. A florist’s tube is nothing but a narrow hollow glass tube or metal which can hold water to enable the cut stems of bloom to draw water and keep the bloom fresh. No doubt, if you develop such type of special structures of gardening inside your house you will feel the pleasure of nature.
5.2.3.6 Protection of Tray Garden from Enemies
Sometimes insects or some diseases can spoil your indoor landscape gardens. Spray with light dose (1 ml/litre water) of any insecticide or fungicides once after every 3-4 weeks and your garden will remain free from insects or diseases.
5.2.3.7 After care of Tray Gardens Remove dried leaves from time to time so that your garden looks nice. Irrigate properly from time to time when it is required for garden. Clean the dust with mist-sprayer or air or by hands.
Check Your Progress Exercise 2 Note : a) Space is given below for answers. b) Compare your answer with that given at the end of the unit. 1) What are tray and bottle gardens ? ...... 138 2) Why Cacti and Succulents should not be used together with foliage plants Terrarium, Bottle Garden in tray gardens ? and Tray landscape Garden ...... 3) What are the media or soil mixtures to plant a tray garden with Cacti or Succulents? ...... 4) What are the ideal plants for a small size tray garden to plant ? ......
5.3 LET US SUM UP
In this unit, we have studied about the development of terrarium, tray and bottle gardens. We have also discussed tools and equipments used for these gardens. We have discussed methods, selection of plants, media used to develop these gardens. You have also studied plantation methods and irrigation plane of these gardens and their care after plantation.
5.4 KEY WORDS
Root ball : The mass of potting mixture interspersed with roots seen when a plant is taken from its pot.
Evergreen : A plant which retains its leaves throughout the year.
Terrarium : It is a glass structure of any step and size in used to develop a landscape garden inside it.
Bottle Garden : When a landscape garden is developed in a bottle is known as bottle garden.
139 Landscaping 5.5 FURTHER REFERENCES 1) Roger Grounds : Ward Lock’s Gardening in Colour. 2) M.L. Chaudhary, K.V. Prasad and A.P. Singh : Practical Guide for Home Gardening. John Brookes: Pocket Encyclopedia House Plants. 5.6 ANSWERS TO CHECK YOUR PROGRESS EXERCISES
Check Your Progress Exercise 1 1) It is a beautiful landscape developed inside a glass case is known as terrarium. 2) The function of a terrarium is a closed feature, hence moisture developed from the transpiration of leaves and evaporation from the soil, again becomes available to the plant for their function. This way by keeping the plants in a enclosed container, draught is excluded and high humidity can be maintained. 3) The five plants used to develop a terrarium are Dracaena, Sandariana, Pellionia pulchera, Fitonia verschaffetti, Salaginella krassiana and Begonia. 4) To maintain a terrarium, the following points are essential to maintain a terrarium– i) Keep the terrarium far away from direct sunlight but make sure that it is good in indirect sunlight. ii) In case of a large mouth terrarium, same principle is applied but with less trouble than a bottle garden. Terrarium needs to be cleaned regularly to remove build-up condensation or algae from the inside surface of the terrarium glass. This can be easily done using a small sponge attached to a bamboo stick. iii) Remove all dead leaves and dried flowers from the terrarium, otherwise these will bring fungus on rotting which harm terrarium plants. Check Your Progress Exercise 2 1) When a mini-landscape is developed on a tray, it’s known as tray garden and when this beautiful landscape is developed under the bottle, it’s known as bottle garden. 2) Cacti and succulents need sunny and dry conditions and therefore if they are grouped in the same tray with shade and moisture loving plants, the result will be disastrous. Different type of climate loving plants should not be planted in the same terrarium for its long life of terrarium. 3) The soil mixture for a tray garden of Cacti or Succulents should consist of 2 - parts each of soil, fine leaf mould, sand or crushed brick and 1 - part each of lime scraped from wall and crushed wood charcoal. 4) The ideal plants for a small size of tray garden are Cholorophytum, Comossum, Vittatum, Begonia-rex, Pepromia rotundifoli and African violet.
140 Terrarium, Bottle Garden UNIT 6 TERRACE GARDEN and Tray landscape Garden
Structure 6.0 Objectives 6.1 Introduction 6.2 Terrace Garden 6.2.1 Roof Gardening and Why 6.3 Planning Terrace / Roof Garden 6.4 Selection of Plants 6.4.1 Flowering Annuals 6.4.2 Herbaceous Perennials 6.4.3 Shrubs 6.4.4 Creepers 6.5 Essential Factors for Successful Terrace Gardens 6.5.1 Structure of Terrace Gardens 6.5.2 Water Proof for Terrace Garden and Preparation Bed 6.6 Type of Flat Roof 6.6.1 Coal Tar Pitch Built up Roof 6.6.2 Asphalt Built up Roof 6.6.3 Turbo Seal 6.6.4 CSPF 6.6.5 EPDM 6.6.6 Modified Bitumen 6.6.7 Cold Applied Liquid Membranes 6.7 Benefits of Flat Roofs 6.8 Maintenance and Assessment of Flat Roofs 6.9 Keeping Cool 6.10 Scope of Terrace Garden 6.11 Duration of Flat Roofs 6.12 Let Us Sum Up 6.13 Key Words 6.14 Further References 6.15 Answers to Check Your Progress Exercises 6.0 OBJECTIVES
After going through this unit, you will be in a position to give the answer of following questions: what is terrace garden and how can it be developed? the essential factors, conditions to develop a terrace garden. suitable plants and growing technique to make terrace garden. to study, the development of terrace gardens and their maintenance. 141 Landscaping care of terrace garden. different type of water proof for roof garden. 6.1 INTRODUCTION
After eight to ten hours of hard work with the professional and the personal affairs, there is little or no energy left. During this tiring phase of the day, you can get fresh air and energy from nature, but again, your legs have revolted not to work any more. The result - you are not able to take a walk at the park, even if it’s at a walking distance. For those of you, who do not have a park nearby to their home, the situation is worse. There is almost no scope of refreshment. However, do you know that if you can’t make it to the park, you can always bring one to your house? Terrace gardening gives you the opportunity to get closer to nature, without taking much efforts. It is a type of indoor gardening, where you take care of your indoor plants as well as rejuvenate your inner self.
6.2 TERRACE GARDEN
A terrace is a raised space of ground constructed around a dwelling house or at corner of a garden or on the sides of hill. When this terrace is used for some sort of gardening this is known as terrace gardening. This type of garden is generally constructed in front of the house from where a view of whole garden can obtain. But this can also be constructed in any other corner of the garden from where a clear view can be obtained. A terrace garden is very often referred to as the outdoor living or drawing room. If you are a lover of beautiful flowers and want to live close to the freshness of green plants, then its time to think beyond the usual line of gardening concept. Terrace gardening is one such idea that help you develop your own garden with whatever space you have at your home’s terrace or balcony. For a perfect terrace garden design you may hire a professional gardener, however with right approach and little effort you can help yourself and get going on your own. A terrace has become an ideal place to develop a personal space for a garden and outdoor living. Terrace garden provides a new way to be surrounded by nature and provides a beautiful transition between hard materials of architecture and softer ones of the garden. 6.2.1 Roof Gardening and Why
In modern times, homes with a compound and lawn especially in cities and towns are becoming rare and skyscrapers are replacing such homes. As a result the private home gardens are vanishing and the only places left 142 Roof garden for gardening are the roofs of houses and the balcony. A spacious and well planned Terrace Garden roof garden can be a place of joy and recreation.
6.3 PLANNING TERRACE / ROOT GARDENS
Initially first you have to check before starting a roof garden is whether the roof surface can bear the weight of the soil especially wet soil, secondly the roof should be made water-proof to prevent seepage of water into the room below. The concept of roof gardening itself is artificial; therefore, while planning and designing this point should be kept in mind as for example it is not possible to create natural scenery with hills and valleys or a natural forest scenery. On a roof the space available for gardening is limited; therefore it will be good idea to encourage vertical growth, so this is the reason why a roof garden lover should use more climbers and trailers in the garden. Hanging baskets also play a major role in a roof gardening.
6.4 SELECTION OF PLANTS
Planting in the terrace should be done after much thought and planning. First it is to be decided if the whole area will be paved or some portions will be left out for lawns, beds, planting of one or two specimen trees and creepers for trailing over the house.The important step is the selection of appropriate plants for terrace gardening. Since plants with tap root systems can damage the structure of your building, you must choose from plants with fibrous root systems. Some of the plants that you might consider for the purpose include money plants, herbs, sun flowers, roses, orchids and cacti varieties will do well on terraces since they are low on maintenance. Plants with deeper roots will do well in planters or big pots. Short trees can also be planted in big pots or planters, including peach, lime and orange. Also keep in mind that the chosen plants do not require too much watering since there are limited outlets for the water to drain out.
In the balcony, since it receives little or no sun you can go in for non-flowering plants. Hardy plants such as varieties of palms, cane bamboo, ficus, croton, chlorophytum, dracaena, dieffenbachia, would do well here. You can even hang baskets in the balcony. Money plant, Jade and chlorophytum do well in baskets. Bonsai plants can also be kept since they take up less space.
Plant material suitable for roof gardening is as follows: 6.4.1 Flowering Annuals
Stock, Pansy, Dog flower, Dahlia, Marigold, Sweet alyssum, Aster, Phlox, Petunia, Nasturtium etc. 6.4.2 Herbaceous Perennials
Pelargonium spp., Cannas pp., Portulaca spp., Vinca rosea, Verbena spp. etc. 6.4.3 Shrubs
Many of dwarf and medium shrubs can be grown.
143 Landscaping 6.4.4 Creepers
Cobaea scandens, Ficus repens, Vernonia elaegnifolia, Thunbergia alata etc.
Terrace Garden
6.5 ESSENTIAL FACTORS FOR SUCCESSFUL TERRACE GARDENS
At first, you need to examine the space you can conveniently spare for the development of your garden. Take into account the size, surrounding areas, how much sunlight it receives during a full sunny day, number of drain pipes, whether you need to screen some portion and several other things. You will also have to consider over the amount of money you are going to spend for the purpose. Depending upon these factors, you will be able to decide what other features, such as rocks, water bodies, furniture, etc you can include to make your garden more attractive. Therefore, the following points give you an insight into the making of an ideal terrace garden for your home: You need to make sure that the roof on which the gardening is to be done, should be strong enough to carry the weight of the garden. The terrace should always be sloppy, with an effective drainage system. Ensure that there is no leakage of water in your roof garden and roof should be water proof. Diffused or mood lighting is usually recommended for terrace gardens. 6.5.1 Structure of Terrace Garden
Unlike any other type of gardening, terrace garden requires detailed plan. It should be proportionate with lawns, shrubs, ground covers and small trees. If desired, you can also assimilate the concept of water garden or rock garden or create a shady structure on your roof garden.
The next step would be choosing of plants. Fiber-rooted plants are preferred to tap root plants. In case of the latter, the plants have the tendency to grow through the building, thereby causing harm to it. Make sure that the soil you use does not 144 exert much pressure on the building. The adequate soil for the purpose is soil rite Terrace Garden or peat moss. However, since it is a costly material, you can blend it either with garden earth or manure. To prepare your drainage system you need to do the roof garden construction. Lay only burnt bricks approx. 2" - 4" uniformly on the terrace. Burnt bricks are the best bet, because the normal ones turn into mud and collapse the drainage system. Corrugated sheets can also serves as a good option, but should be placed at 3' distance to make the water flow to the drain. In top of the bricks, lay a net lawn. This will prevent the soil to get inside the bricks. If the roof is quite a large one, you need to construct drain at several places. Place pipes at several places, leading to main holes. However, be careful, while laying pipes, as they should not be visible and should get covered by lawn, when complete. Put the mixture of the soil prepared before hand to the pot, according to a level you choose.
Terrace Garden
6.5.2 Water Proof for Terrace Garden and Preparation of Bed
Now, you are ready to start plantation work but before that you need to waterproof your terrace. Lay burnt bricks uniformly on the surface and then a wire mesh to prevent soil get inside them. Next, lay a thick layer of soil over the bricks and wire mesh. The soil should be light in weight and contain manure and peat moss. Soil rite or peat moss may be an ideal solution for terrace garden in this regard. Traditionally flat roofs would use a tar and gravel based surface which, as long as there was no pooling of water, was sufficient to prevent penetration. However, these surfaces would tend to fail in colder climates, where ice dams and the like could block the flow of water. Similarly, they tend to be sensitive to sagging of the roof reversing the subtle grading of the surface.
Modern flat roofs tend to use a continuous membrane covering which can better resist pools of standing water. These membranes are applied as a continuous sheet where possible, though sealants and adhesives are available to allow for bonding multiple sheets and dealing with structures penetrating the roof surface. For more expensive flat roof options include sealed metal roofs using copper or tin. These are soldered interlocking systems of metal panels. One of the more interesting emerging methods of protecting the roofing membrane is to use a layer of topsoil and grasses. Care should be taken not to plant anything the roots of which will penetrate the membrane surface. The green roof interestingly 145 Landscaping enough, tends to trap moisture on the roof, but keeps it up in the soil and plants, rather than having it pool down on the membrane surface. The different flat roofs are discussed here under: 1) Types of flat roofs 2) Benefits of flat roofs 3) Maintenance and assessment of flat roofs 4) Keeping cool 6.6 TYPES OF FLAT ROOFS
6.6.1 Coal-tar Pitch Built up Roof
Coal tar is an aromatic hydrocarbon and a by-product from the coking process of the coal industry. It is historically in abundance where coal is used in steel manufacturing. It ages very slowly through volatilization and is an excellent waterproofing and oil resistant product. Roofs are manufactured by heating the coal tar and applying between layers of coal tar saturated felts. It has limitations to application on dead level or flat roofs with slopes less than 1/4 in 12". It has a tendency to soften in warm temperatures and “heal” itself. It is always ballasted with gravel to provide a walking surface. Coal tar provides an extremely long life cycle that is sustainable and renewable. It takes energy to manufacture and to construct a roof with it but its proven longevity with periodic maintenance provides service for many years. 6.6.2 Asphalt Built Up Roof
Asphalt is an aliphatic compound and in almost all cases a byproduct of the oil industry. Some asphalt is manufactured from oil as the intended purpose, and this is limited to high quality asphalt produced for longer lasting asphalt built-up roofs. Asphalt ages through photo-oxidation accelerated by heat. As it ages, the asphalts melt point rises and there is a loss of plasticizers. As mass is lost, the asphalt shrinks and forms a surface similar to alligator skin. Asphalt breaks down slowly in water and the more exposure the more rapid the degradation. Asphalt also dissolves readily when exposed to oils and some solvents.
There are four types of roofing asphalt. Each type is created by heating and blowing with oxygen. The longer the process the higher the melt-point of the asphalt. Therefore, Type I asphalt has characteristics closest to coal tar and can only be used on dead level surfaces. Type II, is considered flat and can be applied to surfaces up to 1/4 in 12 slopes. Type III, is considered to be “steep” asphalt but is limited to slopes up to 2 in 12, and Type IV is “special steep”. The drawback is, the longer it is processed, the shorter the life. Dead level roofs where Type I asphalt was used as the flood and gravel adhesive has performed nearly as well as Coal tar.
Asphalt roofs are also sustainable by restoring the lifecycle by making repairs and recoating with compatible products. The process can be repeated as necessary at a significant cost savings with very little impact on the environment.
146 6.6.3 Turbo Seal Terrace Garden
Self healing gel like membrane that never cures. Made of 45 % recycled tire rubber, it goes on top of existing tar (asphalt) roofs then capped with a sheet membrane. 6.6.4 CSPE
Chlorosulfonated Polyethylene is a synthetic rubber roof. It is more popularly known as Hypalon. This product is usually reinforced and depending upon manufacturer, seams can be heat welded or adhered with a solvent based adhesive. 6.6.5 EPDM
Ethylene Propylene Diane Monomer is a synthetic rubber most commonly used in single-ply roofing because it is readily available and relatively simple to apply. Problems associated with EPDM include moisture gain under the membrane by vapor drive (occurring on roofs with air conditioned space beneath). Previously, another problem was that EPDM did not like to adhere to itself and same problems occurred. New developments have seen this overcome with huge success, with certain manufacturers developing uncured EPDM tapes to weld seams together with minimal effort.
It is a low cost membrane, but when properly applied in appropriate places, its current expected life-span has reached fifty years. This continues to grow as the original roofs utilizing the product are still going strong today. Typically, there are three installation methods. Ballasted at 1000 lbs/100 sq.ft. with large round stones. Mechanically attached is another method and is suitable in some applications where wind velocities are not usually high. Fully adhered is the most expensive installation method but proves to give the longest performance of the three methods on roofs with very good drainage and no standing water. The new generation of EPDM has been combined with a polyester fleece backing fully adhered. This has resulted in eliminating shrinkage of the product, whilst still allowing it to move with the building through the seasons. 6.6.6 Modified Bitumen
A bitumen is a term applied to both coal tar pitch and asphalt products. The two most common modifiers are APP (at tactic polypropylene) and SBS (styrene- butadiene-styrene). These modified bitumen compounds are used in other countries.
APP was added to asphalt to enhance aging characteristics and was applied to polyester, fiberglass, or polyester and fiberglass membranes to form a sheet good, cut in manageable lengths for handling. Usually applied by heating up the underside of the roll with a torch provided a significant fire hazard and was outlawed in some municipalities when buildings caught fire and some burnt to the ground. Another problem developed when a lack of standards allowed some manufacturers to produce goods with amounts of APP insufficient to enhance the aging characteristics. SBS is used as a modifier for enhancing substandard asphalt and provides a degree of flexibility much like rubber. It is also applied to a myriad of carriers and produced as a sheet-good in rolls that can be easily handled. 147 Landscaping 6.6.7 Cold Applied Liquid Membranes
An increasingly popular choice for new roofs and roof refurbishment. No open flames or other heat sources are needed and the glass fiber reinforced systems provide seamless waterproofing around roof protrusions and details. Systems are based on flexible thermoses resin systems such as polyester and polyurethane. PVC - Polyvinyl chloride TPO - Thermoplastic polyolefin Curon - Cold-curing glass-reinforced polymer composite. 6.7 BENEFITS OF FLAT ROOFS
A flat roof is the most cost-efficient roof shape as all room space can be used fully (below and above the roof) and as this roof allows easy revision/placement of solar panels. They also provide space for outdoor recreational use such as roof gardens. Applying a tough waterproofing membrane forms the ideal substrate for green roof planting schemes.
6.8 MAINTENANCE AND ASSESSMENT OF FLAT ROOFS
In general, a flat roof lasts longer if it is properly maintained. The life expectancy of a flat roof can be proportional to the maintenance done on it. Some assessors use 10 years as an average life cycle, although this is dependent on the type of flat roof system in place. Some old tar and gravel roofers quietly acknowledge that unless a roof has been neglected for too long and there are many problems in many areas, a BUR (a built up roof of tar, paper and gravel) will last 20 - 30 years. There are BUR systems in place dating to the early 1900s. Modern cold applied liquid membranes such as Poly roof 185 have been durability rated by the British Board of Agreement (BBA) for 30 years. BBA approval is an important benchmark in determining the suitability of a particular fibreglass roofing system. If standard fibreglass polyester resin is used such as the same resin used in boat repairs, then there will be problems with the roof being too inflexible and not able to accommodate expansion and contraction of the building. A fit-for-purpose flexible/elastomeric resin system used as a waterproofing membrane will last for many years with just occasional inspection needed. The fact that such membranes do not require stone chippings to deflect heat means there is no risk of stones blocking drains. Liquid applied membranes are also naturally resistant to moss and lichen. General flat roof maintenance includes getting rid of ponding water, typically within 48 hours. This is accomplished by adding roof drains or scuppers for a pond at an edge or automatic siphons for ponds in the center of roofs. An automatic siphon can be created with an inverted ring shaped sprinkler, a garden hose, a wet/dry vacuum, a check valve installed in the vacuum, and a digital timer. The timer runs two or three times a day for a minute or two to start water in the hose. The timer then turns off the vacuum, but the weight of water in the hose continues the siphon and soon opens the check valve in the vacuum. The best time to address the issue of ponding water is during the design phase of a new roofing work when sufficient falls can be designed-in to take standing water away. The 148 quicker you get the water off the roof, the less chance there is for a roof leak to Terrace Garden occur. All roofs should be inspected semi-annually and after major storms. During the roof inspection particular attention should be paid to the flashings around all of the roof top penetrations. The sharp bends at such places can open up and need to be sealed with plastic cement, mesh and a small masons’ trowel. Additionally, repairs to lap seams in base flashings should be made. 90 % of all roof leaks and failure occur at the flashings. Another important maintenance item, often neglected, is to simply keep the roof drains free of debris. A clogged roof drain will cause water to pond, leading to increased “dead load” weight on building that may not be engineered to accommodate that weight. Additionally, ponding water on a roof can freeze. Often, water finds its way into a flashing seam and freezes, weakening the seam.
For bitumen based roof coverings maintenance also includes keeping the tar paper covered with gravel, an older method, currently being replaced with bituminous roofing membranes and the like, which must be ‘glued’ in place so wind and waves do not move it causing scouring and more bare spots. The glue can be any exterior grade glue like driveway coating. Maintenance also includes fixing blisters (delaminations) or creases that may not yet be leaking but will leak over time. They may need experienced help as they require scraping away the gravel on a cool morning when the tar is brittle, cutting open, and covering with plastic cement or mastic and mesh. Any moisture trapped in a blister has to be dried before being repaired.
Roof coatings can be used to fix leaks and extend the life of all types of flat roofs by preventing degradation by the sun (ultra-violet radiation). A thickness of 30 dry mils is usually preferred and once it is fully cured, you will have a seamless, watertight membrane. Infrared thermograph is being used to take pictures of roofs at night to find trouble spots. When the roof is cooling, wet spots not visible to the naked eye, continue to emit heat. The infrared cameras read the heat that is trapped in sections of wet insulation.
6.9 KEEPING COOL
Homes with flat roofs can be extremely hot during tropical summer. In places like India, people traditionally built these kinds of houses. Several methods are employed to reduce the impact of sunlight on the temperature in the house. Some people erect light weight asbestos sheets above the roof so as to shield it from direct sunlight. This method has a significant effect. Another method consists of pouring water over the roof. Roof coatings can reflect up to 90 % of the heat from the sun. The reduction in roof surface temperature can translate into savings on air conditioning. Roofing systems that can deliver high solar reflectance (the ability to reflect the visible, infrared and ultraviolet wavelengths of the sun, reducing heat transfer to the building) and high thermal emittance (the ability to release a large percentage of absorbed or non-reflected solar energy) are called cool roofs.
Check Your Progress Exercise 1 Note : a) Space is given below for answers. b) Compare your answer with that given at the end of the unit.
1) What are Terrace and Roof Gardens ? 149 Landscaping ...... 2) Describe the essential factors for successful Terrace Garden...... 3) Write down the names of any five plants used in a Terrace Garden...... 4) How will you maintain Terrace Garden ? ...... 5) What is the importance and necessity of the Terrace Garden ? ......
6.10 SCOPE OF TERRACE GARDEN
“A terrace garden is an extension of a living space. “Highly personal terrace gardens see water bodies, chimes and birdbaths, and gardens meant for gatherings have makeshift bars and pavilions.” 150 Nowadays, people are going for houses with a terrace garden. Imagine a situation Terrace Garden where you enjoy the light drizzle or even a brisk shower on the terrace garden of your house. It goes without saying that after the heat of a sweltering summer, you will grab such a dream opportunity. To enjoy such rare moments in the fast and chaotic life of metros, many people, of course rich, hardly mind paying more rent so as to secure rights to a terrace garden on their house. And street- smart landlords too are converting their barren terraces, generally used for dumping old things, into green fields. They are developing mini-gardens there, with huge concrete umbrellas and chairs. And likewise, the realty firms are offering penthouses with a garden, swimming pool, and so many other alluring facilities. Affluent people, like foreign diplomats, and others, are always on the lookout for such houses where they can get a roof garden as well. Many people buy a second floor with roof rights as a terrace garden is a great place to host small parties.
“It’s great to have one as it gives such a feeling of space. Gardening enthusiast, develop a nice terrace garden a top their house. Many metropolis-dwellers who long to tend to a green patch in their house where a cup of tea can be served in the morning sun, or a small barbecue under the night sky for friends.
Many house owners do provide a small pool and garden on their terrace-garden flats in Delhi. Many people after getting accustomed to that kind of living, which also lent a great view of the city, they generally decide to purchase a penthouse built by builder.
6.11 DURATION OF FLAT ROOFS
The performance and longevity of flat roofs depends upon many factors, including the position of the insulation within the construction. If insulation is placed below the structural deck (cold roof construction) the structure remains cold and there is a considerable risk of condensation; for that reason cold deck roofs are not recommended and are now seldom used. Insulation placed above the structural deck and beneath the waterproof layer (warm roof construction) reduces the risk of condensation but, because the waterproof layer is thermally isolated from the rest of the roof construction, it is exposed to wide temperature fluctuations with consequent increased risk of premature failure.
The inverted roof concept overcomes the problem by placing thermal insulation above the waterproof layer, maintaining it at an even temperature close to that of the building interior and protecting it from the damaging effects of UV radiation and from mechanical damage. The insulation protects the water proof covering from: wide temperature variations + 80 to -20°C. degradation from weathering. mechanical damage during construction, use and maintenance. The waterproof layer acts as a total vapour control layer and, being on the warm side of the insulation, is maintained above dew point temperature so the risk of condensation is minimized. The inverted roof concept has other benefits. The insulation can be:
151 Landscaping installed in any weather added to, without stripping the waterproof layer easily lifted and replaced/re-used if the building is altered. The insulation for an inverted roof must: resist water absorption be unaffected by freeze/thaw cycling withstand surface traffic protect the waterproof layer long term be ballasted to prevent flotation be protected from UV and mechanical damage. the inverted roof insulation system has been proven successful for more than 35 years.
Check Your Progress Exercise 2 Note : a) Space is given below for answers. b) Compare your answer with that given at the end of the unit. 1) What is the scope of terrace garden ? ...... 2) What are the benefits of flat roofs ? ...... 3) What kind of plants can be grown on a terrace garden and how can you grow grass on it ? ......
152 ...... 4) How would you keep cool of your flats in extreme tropical summer ? Terrace Garden ...... 5) What kind of plants can be grown in a balcony, if it receives very little sun light? ......
6.12 LET US SUM UP
In this unit, we have studied about the terrace/roof gardens, essential factors for successful making of terrace garden. We have also discussed structure and preparation of water proof flats for terrace garden, selection of plants, media for these gardens. You have also studied plantation and scope of terrace garden including maintenance of flat roofs etc. and care after plantation.
6.13 KEY WORDS Terrace Garden : In modern time to develop a garden on the roof of a house flat is known as terrace garden. Modified Bitumen : It is a term applied to both coal – tar pich and Asphalt products. It is used for water proofing of roof to develop garden on it. Coal-Tar : It is an aromatic hydro carbon and a byproduct of Petrolium Industty. It is used for water proofing of roof. CPSE : Chlorosulphonateal Polyethylene is known as CSPE. It is a synthetic rubber roof for waterproofing. 7.14 FURTHER REFERENCES
1) Ching, Francis D. K. (1995). A Visual Dictionary of Architecture, Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, ISBN 0-442-02462-2. pp: 208.
2) Sindhu, S.S. (2008). Ornamental Horticulture, Paper presented in “Homi Bhabha Centenary DAE-BRNS, National Symposium on Landscaping for sustainable Environment” held at BARC, Trombay, Mumbai from 20-21 November, 2008. pp:1-25. 153 Landscaping 6.15 ANSWERS TO CHECK YOUR PROGRESS EXERCISES
Check Your Progress Exercise 1
1) Terrace Garden: A terrace is a raised space of ground constructed around a dwelling house or at corner of a garden or on the sides of hill. When this terrace is used for some sort of gardening this is known as terrace gardening. In modern time it is also called roof garden.
Roof garden: In modern times, homes with a compound and lawn especially in cities and towns are becoming rare and skyscrapers are replacing such homes. As a result the private home gardens are vanishing and the only places left for gardening are the roofs of houses and the balcony. A spacious and well planned roof garden can be a place of joy and recreation.
2) The following points give you an insight into the making of an ideal terrace garden for your home roof. You need to make sure that the roof on which the gardening is to be done, should be strong enough to carry the weight of the garden. The terrace should always be sloppy, with an effective drainage system. Ensure that there is no leakage of water in your roof garden. Diffused or mood lighting is usually recommended for terrace roof gardens. 3) Five plants that you might consider for the purpose include money plants, herbs, sun flowers, roses, and cacti. These plants will do well on terraces since they are low on maintenance.
4) Maintenance of terrace garden: In general, a terrace garden lasts longer if it is properly maintained. The life expectancy of a terrace garden can be proportional to the maintenance done on it. Some assessors use 10 years as an average life cycle, although this is dependent on the type of flat roof system in place.
5) After eight to ten hours of hard work with the professional and the personal affairs, there is little or no energy left. Terrace gardening gives you the opportunity to get closer to nature, without taking much efforts. It is a type of indoor gardening, where you take care of your indoor plants as well as rejuvenate your inner self.
Check Your Progress Exercise 2
1) Scope of terrace garden: “A terrace garden is an extension of a living space. “Highly personal terrace gardens see water bodies, chimes and birdbaths, and gardens meant for gatherings have makeshift bars and pavilions.” Many house owners do provide a small pool and garden on their terrace-garden flats in Delhi. Many people after getting accustomed to that kind of living, which also lent a great view of the city, they generally decide to purchase a penthouse built by builder, so there is much scope for terrace garden in big cities. 154 2) Benefits of flat roofs: A flat roof is the most cost-efficient roof shape as all Terrace Garden room space can be used fully (below and above the roof) and as this roof allows easy revision/placement of solar panels. They also provide space for outdoor recreational use such as roof gardens. Applying a tough waterproofing membrane forms the ideal substrate for green roof planting schemes.
3) Planting in the terrace should be done after much thought and planning. First it is to be decided if the whole area will be paved or some portions will be left out for lawns, beds, planting of one or two specimen trees and creepers for trailing over the house. On the sunny side you can go for hardy plants which can take the bright sun. Keep the non-sunny side for plants that prefer the shade. First, you should mix manure in the soil and then lay the grass. Depending on how patient you can be, you can either sow grass seeds or roll out a grass carpet. In case you choose the latter it will take a fortnight for the grass to set.
4) Keeping cool: Homes with flat roofs can be extremely hot during tropical summer. In places like India, people traditionally built these kinds of houses. Several methods are employed to reduce the impact of sunlight on the temperature in the house. Some people erect light weight asbestos sheets above the roof so as to shield it from direct sunlight. This method has a significant effect. Another method consists of pouring water over the roof. Roof coatings can reflect up to 90% of the heat from the sun.
5) First of all before planting any flowers or plants, it becomes necessary to access the direction of sun on your terrace. On the sunny side you can go for hardy plants which can take the bright sun. Keep the non-sunny side for plants that prefer the shade. In the balcony, since it receives little or no sun you can go in for non-flowering plants. Hardy plants such as varieties of palms, cane bamboo, ficus, croton, chlorophytum, dracaena, dieffenbachia, would do well here. You can even hang baskets in the balcony. Money plant, Jade and chlorophytum do well in baskets. Bonsai plants can also be kept since they take up less space.
155 Landscaping UNIT 7 BONSAI
Structure 7.0 Objectives 7.1 Introduction 7.2 What is a Bonsai ? 7.3 The Elements that Makes Complete Bonsai 7.3.1 Essential Condition for Bonsai 7.3.2 Specific Features of Bonsai 7.3.3 Some Principals for Bonsai Growing 7.3.4 Time Require to Develop Full Grown Bonsai 7.3.5 Life of a Bonsai 7.4 Suitable Plants for Bonsai Preparation 7.4.1 Choice of Plants for Preparation of Bonsai Plants 7.4.2 How to Obtain Plants by Layering for Bonsai 7.4.3 If Bonsai Plant is Young Tree or Uprooted from Forest or Hill 7.5 Containers for Bonsai 7.5.1 Shape and Size of Bonsai Containers 7.5.2 Tools and Equipments Used in Bonsai Preparation 7.6 Soil for Bonsai 7.6.1 Preparation of Basic Soil 7.7 Planting Methods of Bonsai 7.7.1 Place for Keeping Bonsai after Plantation 7.8 Different types or styles of Bonsai 7.9 Watering of Bonsai 7.10 Fertilizers Application to Bonsai 7.10.1 Form of Fertilizer 7.10.2 Methods of Fertilizer Application 7.10.3 Time of Fertilizer Application in Bonsai 7.11 Training to Bonsai for Desired Shape 7.11.1 Pruning 7.11.2 Pinching of Buds 7.11.3 Wiring 7.12 Repotting of Old Bonsai Pot 7.13 Pest and Diseases of Bonsai 7.13.1 Pests Control 7.13.2 Diseases and Control 7.14 Let Us Sum Up 7.15 Key Words 7.16 Further References 7.17 Answers to Check Your Progress Exercises
156 Bonsai 7.0 OBJECTIVES
Bonsai growing is an art, originated from Japan and are now being grown throughout the world. You will find in this unit, the art of Bonsai growing and the different principles, methods etc. involve in the development of Bonsai. You will study here: What is Bonsai and how this beautiful art is developed? The essential factors, conditions and merit to develop a Bonsai. Suitable plants and growing techniques to make Bonsai. Suitable conditions and potting soil/media to plant a new Bonsai. To study, the development of different type of Bonsai production and their maintenance. Care of Bonsai which includes, pinching, pruning, wiring, arranging of branches, fertigation etc. Different types of enemies of Bonsai. 7.1 INTRODUCTION
Bonsai growing is a Japany art to develop full grown plants in a miniature form. Now this art is spread all over the world. The growing of Bonsai gives you an enjoyment that lasts throughout the year, a pleasure which can not be obtained in flower growing in the garden. Bonsai changes with the seasons, and as it grows older, it looks more beautiful and exhibits produce a full grown beauty of plant in a miniature form. You will find here all the activities which involve to develop a Bonsai, how to develop different types and plants used to make a Bonsai like other pot plants. Bonsai also require proper maintenance like, irrigation, fertigation, pinching and arranging of branch with wire to give desirable shape. The various methods of growing Bonsai are described in this unit properly. The different type of pots require to develop attractive Bonsai, have been described in this unit. The soil which used for plantation of these Bonsai plants and protection of Bonsai from enemies have been described properly, so that a beginner like you will not find any difficulty to grow a Bonsai properly.
7.2 WHAT IS A BONSAI ?
It is a Japanese art to develop a full form plant in a small pot or container, sometimes in combination with rock of different form, in miniature form, by lovers of gardening. It is a lightest form of horticulture as a hobby. Bonsai consist of bushes, trees and perennial herbs found on mountain and fields. These plants are artistically planted in small container or pot, to reproduce in a miniature form of large aged tree or landscape such as found in nature. They are different from ordinary potted plant whose purpose is the enjoyment of their leaves and blossoms. The pleasure of growing Bonsai is unique and its decorative uses, both in the garden and indoors, make it an art of beauty produce long lasting enjoyment.
157 Landscaping 7.3 THE ELEMENTS THAT MAKE COMPLETE BONSAI
There are three elements which constitute a perfect Bonsai. These are: The pots or containers in which the Bonsai plants are planted. Soil or Bonsai pot mixture. The plants which are grown in the containers. Out of these three elements, the first two, namely the pots or containers and soil/ media put therein, represent the earth, and the plants represents the tree, bushes and perennial herbs, that grow on the earth. If rocks are used with plants, they serve as auxiliary natural feature.
The containers and soil used for Bonsai plantation, must be both of such a kind as will be favorable to the growth of plants. If containers are too large, need great quantity of soil to fill, require more space than desirable and their handling become a problem. The size of containers should be like, to which one person can move them freely. The plant used for Bonsai, must be of such type, as will allow it to grow within this restricted space and yet exhibit its entire characteristic when in the natural state. In the end, the plants chosen must be of a dwarf nature, slow growing habit or one that bends itself to growing up as a miniature plant, showing all the feature of a full grown tree. 7.3.1 Essential Conditions for Bonsai
The essential conditions of Bonsai, the following may be listed: The plant used as Bonsai in a container must have all the natural characters of a living plant. It should be terminated in the top which indicate the highest point of its growth. The stem/trunk near the root and the main stem/trunk above the ground should have all the characters of natural growth, in addition to the appearance of age, feature of large full grown tree that are several decade old. The branches must be rich in variety and of artistic appearance. The shape of the container and the appearance of the plant, planted in it, must have perfect harmony, so that the over all effect of Bonsai, will be one of stability. The plant selected must be of such species as exhibit all the variations that accompany the changes of the seasons, so that they will produce enjoyment to the eye round the year. All Bonsai-growers must choose such plant for Bonsai which will need minimum of artificiality, to develop natural Bonsai. 7.3.2 Specific Features of Bonsai
The purpose of Bonsai has always been to give a full plant appearance in mini form. However, in assessing Bonsai, the following points deserve attention as a special feature on merits. 158 1) In the case of single plant : Bonsai The root age condition, how the main roots strike into the earth. The trunk appearance, as it rises above the ground. The curvature of the trunk. The wrinkled appearance of the bark, creating appearance of old age plant. The artistic look of the branches. The colour and the shape of the leaves, as well as their change according to the seasons. The position of plant and size of the top The mosses grass condition which covers the surface of the soil in the container. 2) When both tree and herbs are planted together in the container, in addition to the foregoing : The length and girth of the trunk. Curvature and the sense of perspective. 3) In the case of herb found in plains and mountains, used for Bonsai: The distribution of the plant. The condition of fruits and their colour arrangement. 7.3.3 Some Principles for Bonsai Growing
The young plant developed for Bonsai, must be planted in a small container first:
When you find a plant that seems suitable for Bonsai growing, it should be dug out of the soil, planted it in a small pot from which water drains freely, given plentiful water to develop roots and placed in semi-shade with less/ defuse sunlight.
The young plant should be placed on an outdoor self and be watered. When the plant has developed roots, it should be kept on an airy out door shelf. (Do not place Bonsai directly on the ground). The plant should be exposed to enough sunlight and applied water freely to keep the surface of soil moist.
If you have developed layering with the help of sphagnum moss, on an old tree branch, when roots come out from the sphagnum moss, cut on the branch. Plant this branch with roots (appearing from sphagnum moss) in a small container or pot with moss grass to grow it for about a year, determining each part of the tree as (1) the top, (2) the central part, and (3) the lower part.
The soil should be sifted so that it will both drain and hold water well.
After two years, remove the plant/tree from the pot for growing and transplant it in a Bonsai container.
Care: For the growth of Bonsai, fertilizer should be given from time to time for its proper growth. When new buds start to grow, should be pinched just 159 Landscaping about the time, the leaves take definite shape. If you find any insect or pest, they should be removed. In winter, take proper care/ protection measures to prevent the container soil from freezing.
Transplanting: Transplanting should be carried out once in every one or two years. This process should be taken place in the month of spring just before the new growth starts.
If all these principles kept in mind or followed properly in the care of Bonsai plants, in a few years, a true Bonsai will develop and may even bear flower or fruits, depending on the species. 7.3.4 Time Requires to Develop Full Grown Bonsai
The actual time to be taken by a plant to develop fully mature Bonsai, depends on a multitude of factors, such as species, the techniques of developing its form and arranging its branches, the environment, feeding, the care of the plant and the ability of the grower etc. it may be 2 to10 years or more to develop an natural form of Bonsai. 7.3.5 Life of a Bonsai
The age of a Bonsai depends on the species used and care given to it. However, with the exception of the bamboo species, which have short life (7-9 years). There are few that wither within 50 years. If proper care is given at the proper time, all the other species can survive up to 70 years and some even several centuries. Particularly Pine species, Maple species, Ficus species etc. last so long that their life span is beyond calculation.
7.4 SUITABLE PLANTS FOR BONSAI PREPARATION
There are numerous plants used for Bonsai preparation. Some of the plants are given below for your consideration to use, for Bonsai production:
Foliage plants: Ficus panda species, Ficus Benjamina species, Ficus Religiosa, Peaches, Mulbery, Anar, Amrood, Lasora, Mausambi, China Hazara or, China orange, Kinnow, etc.
Creepers: Jasmine, Bouganvillea, Clerodendron, Petrea etc.
Shrubs: Azala, Murraya, Hemelia species, Jatropa, Adenium etc
Flowering plants: Jacranda, Flame of the forest, Apricot sp. and Prunus species, Gulmohar, Hibiscus etc.
Conifers: Pinus Khasiana, P.roxburghii, Juniperus species,Cedrus species etc.
Woody climber: Derris, Roupellia, Wisteria, Comberliem.
Others: There are several other plants also, used for Bonsai making. These are Butea, Callistemon, Putranjiva, Fine - needle Pine, Maple, Juneberry 160 Pomergranate species, Black pine, Ceder species. etc. 7.4.1 Choice of Plants for Preparation of Bonsai Plants Bonsai
The selection of plants to prepare a Bonsai is very important aspect to develop a well proper shaped Bonsai. The following points should be taken into consideration to choice the plant for Bonsai : Plant for Bonsai should be selected which is low in height, has a strong trunk and thick near the roots. The branching of the roots must be as numerous as possible. The plant must have small and dense leaves, and free from any harmful insects or diseases. Prefer those plants which have beautiful leaves through out the four seasons. Preference should be given to those plants whose flowers and fruits are elegant and tasteful. The plants must have a fine arrangements of branches. In the case or branchless seedlings, choice should be given to those in which the internodes of the leaves are short and have healthy bud eyes in the lower part. If you have selected a seedling or cuttings whose roots are strong and which grown too tall, the part exceeding two-thirds of the height should be cut off. At same time, the main root of these plants should be cut off as short as possible, keeping only the thicker part as it is. In case of grafted plants, choose only such plants which have perfect joints, and avoid those which show unnatural joining. 7.4.2 How to Obtain Plants by Layering for Bonsai ?
Plants can be obtained by layering from those plants species which can be multiplied by layering. Like several species of Ficus, Juniperes etc. The layering is taken place during spring season or rainy season when enough humidity is available in the atmosphere. Choose the strong branch of an old tree about 5-10 years old. Peal of the bark of the branch with sharp knife and form a ring about 3 cm in width from its forked branch or trunk and remove the bark from the ring without damaging the pith wood. Tie wet sphagnum moss around the place of ring where it was pealed and water it regularly. After few weeks, roots will come out from the sphagnum moss and a new plant will form. This way you can obtain several plants from a tree to develop many bonsai from a tree. When roots become prominent and stick out from the sphagnum moss, cutoff the branch. Plant this branch to a pot with sphagnum moss and let it grow for about a year to develop like a tree, showing the top. The central part and the lower part, and also develop water holding capacity in the roots. After a year your plant will be ready for growing in a container for bonsai, to which you can give a desirable shape and type as your choice. 161 Landscaping 7.4.3 If Bonsai Plant is Young Tree or Uprooted from Forest or Hill
If your tree for bonsai is a young tree or wild plant uprooted from forest, it is better to plant it in the ground and give it fertilizers for a year or so to develop fresh branches & roots. After the plant has grown strong trunk, branches and good system of roots, it can be transplanted to a container after pruning the branches and roots, to develop bonsai.
Planting directly into a container, without planting it in ground first, it needs more care to develop strong trunk, branches, leaves and good system of roots. There is no harm at all in planting them directly in the container.
7.5 CONTAINERS FOR BONSAI
The container used for Bonsai plantation, should be a pot, unglazed or semi-hard backed pot, inexpensive, suitable in shape and size and in balance with size of bonsai plants. It should have a good water arrange and retention. Before planting the bonsai. There is no need to purchase costly glazed pottery, in the very start, when practicing for bonsai. The container should have a hole at the bottom for good aeration and water draining. The large holes are more better to prevent root decay. Soil should be prepared first before transplanting the bonsai plant in the container. The newly purchased container must be cleaned and washed properly after immersing in water and dried up before planting a bonsai. When you are using an old container, it should be used only after thoroughly cleaning it, washing off, old soil, moss and germs of diseases. Use this container only after water is completely drained and dried. There are several types, size and forms of the containers, used by the people to develop bonsai. 7.5.1 Shape and size of Bonsai containers
Selection of a suitable container for ‘bonsai’ propagation is as important as selecting and training of the bonsai tree itself. Choice of container is made according to the tree shape and style of bonsai. Bonsai containers are available in different shapes such as rectangular, square, tall square, tall round, oval, octagonal, hexagonal etc. with varying depths and size. 7.5.2 Tools and Equipments Used in Bonsai Preparation 1) Sharp small pruning scissor 2) Soil strainers 3) Potting sticks 4) Copper wire
162 5) Small wire cutter 6) Small pieces of plastic mesh Bonsai 7) Watering can 8) A pair of pruning clip 9) Small leaf cutter 10) Small saw 11) Knife 7.6 SOIL FOR BONSAI
Different type of bonsai plants prefers different type of soil to some extent. But the safest and productive soil should have following characteristics: Good water retention capacity and draining with good fertilizer absorption. Containing less fertilizer (The soil structure and amount of fertilizer in soil can be calculated only by analysis). Hence, it is better to use soil with little fertilizer at the beginning. Later on according to the need of fertilizer can be supplied Soil must be free from any disease germs or eggs or larves of harmful insects. Alkali and acidity reaction of the soil must not be strong. The soil should not contain poisonous substance injurious to plant growth. However, naturally available soil does not have all these qualities. Therefore, soil of this type must be prepared by artificial mixing.
Potting soil is prepared by mixing is equal proportion of garden soil, manure and crushed bricks or river sand. The growing soil for ‘bonsai’ must be coarse enough to provide proper aeration and drainage.
The plants are manured in spring season. One can use sludge or cow dung and bone meal mixture in small quantities to all the parties. In case of fruit trees one must add a little bit of super phosphate which will help to get better fruits. 7.6.1 Preparation of Basic Soil The basic soil should be dried separately in the sun. Soil should be classified by using large, medium and small sieves. With the help of these sieves separate the soil into large, medium & smaller type of granule apart for plantation of Bonsai. This way soil consist of large, medium and smaller grains soil and keep them in separate containers or boxes. At the time of plantation put large granular soil at the bottom of the container to facilitate water drainage. Above the large grains soil, put medium grain soil in and the tree is planted in it. This type of medium grain soil promotes water drainage and is favorable to roots growth. In the last, and above the medium grain soil, put small grain soil, at the top give containers a pleasing appearance.This soil need not be used always. 163 Landscaping If possible to cover the small grain soil with moss grass to protect small grain soil from watering.
The proportion with which the various kind of soil must be mixed when the tree is to be planted in the container depend on the tree used for bonsai preparation.
7.7 PLANTING METHODS OF BONSAI First of all put the container at a suitable height on a table where you have to work. The hole at the base of container should be covered with plastic net of 1.5 mm or with a fragment of a clay pot. This prevents the soil from dropping out of the container and also protect from insects through the hole. Now put the layer of soil consisting on large grains to facilitate water drainage. Then put the 2nd layer of soil consisting of medium grains. The tree which is ready for planting, put on the soil. While planting the balance between roots on the one hand and the trunk, branches, foliage on the other hand must be maintained. Bonsai plant should be planted so as to present the best side to view. Do not plant the tree too deep, as this will conseal the base of the trunk where the roots arises. This part of the tree is one of the features of bonsai. The tree should be planted so that this part will be slightly alone the edge of the container. This way the growth of the root will be clearly visible. Now, soil consisting medium grains should be put around the roots of the bonsai tree which has been planted. This soil should be put in small portion, only to fill the container up to about ¾ of the whole vessel and press the soil with proper pressure without damaging the roots at the plants. After the plantation of tree, soil consisting of fine grains should be placed on the top to improve its general appearance. For this purpose use a piece of wood to press the soil down gently. If possible to put a thin layer of wet moss gross on this fine layer, to protect it and keep it moist after irrigation. Watering should be applied from the top of the plant by means of a watering can with a fine to moisten the whole tree. As soon as the water starts running out from the container hole at the bottom, the watering should be stopped. 7.7.1 Place for keeping Bonsai after Plantation The planted container should be kept for about two weeks in a such place where, there is no wind, to assist the plant to take root properly. It should be expose to sunlight in the morning for about two to three hours. During this period the plants should not be exposed to the heavy rain or 164 cold. It should be watered regularly to keep the soil moist and to prevent the soil Bonsai from drying. After this, the plant should be exposed to plenty of sunlight and air. During the summer, deciduous trees should be kept under a shade in the afternoon to protect the leaves from sun-burn. In winter, deciduous trees, whose branches may wither because of cold, should be taken into an unheated sunroom or be protected against frost.
Check Your Progress Exercise 1 Note : a) Space is given below for answers. b) Compare your answer with that given at the end of the unit. 1) What is a bonsai and from which country it was originated first ? ...... 2) What are the essential elements constitute a bonsai ? ...... 3) How long period is required for grow a full grown bonsai and which plants bonsai has longest life ? ......
7.8 DIFFERENT TYPES OR STYLES OF BONSAI
1) Formal upright: in this type a single plant is grown straight with an upright stem, giving natural view of the plant in miniform. This type is commonly used for ficus sp. and coniferous. 165 Landscaping
Formal Upright Formal Upright
2) Informal upright type: A single trunk is twisted once or several times showing as it has struggle for its existence in the wild. A wire is used to develop this type of bonsai.
Informal Upright
3) Slanting type: In this style or type, the tree is slanted or curved to one side or the other having more branches on one side. In other words a single tree with a slanting trunk.
Slanting type bonsai in Bougainvillea 166 4) Semi cascade style: A single tree with a leaving trunk and thick branches Bonsai that hang down in one direction. 5) Cascade style: Here the trunk of the tree hang over the edge of the container look like as it was hanging over the edge of a mountain or a single tree whose trunk hang down in one direction. 6) Multiple trunk style: In this style, tree may have two or more trunks. The group of trunks would have a front and back with spreading side and back branches coming from the individual trunks in the appropriate positions and roots of tree connected each other showing separate identity.
Multiple Trunk Bonsai 7) Group planting: in this case plants planted cluster form and trained like a miniforest in a single container. 8) Rock Planting: The sapling of Bonsai planted in the convinces rock places. The pieces and tree planting are arranged in such a way that it should look like a natural rockery with tree struggling out from the crevices. 9) Trees growing from one root: In this case Bonsai developed in such a way where roots shows one plant system from which different trunk of trees arises. It look as, several trees are growing from one root 10) Twisted trunk: A single tree with a twisted or gnarled trunk.
167 Landscaping 7.9 WATERING OF BONSAI
Water is a very important source of life to plant and without which plant can not sustain their life for a single day. The need of water is more in case of bonsai which are planted in a smaller pots with a limited amount of soil and which have no other source of water expect, rain, dew and watering. In Bonsai, two methods of watering are used. i) To apply water only around the roots ii) To apply water so as to moisten the trunk, the branches and both side of the branches. It’s called syringing. First method should be used, when soil surface in the become whitish and dry. When edges of the container is much higher then the soil surface, water accumulate in the container, to moist the roots zone, and soil of container. If container’s edge is not high then the soil, the water over-flows rapidly with out moisturing the soil and roots of the Bonsai. In such cases, put the Bonsai in water tank to absorb water properly. The plants, whose roots are fully grown, need this type of method for irrigation of Bonsai.
In general, watering the Bonsai, once or twice a day in spring and autumn, two to three a day in summer and once every fourth or fifth day in winter.
The 2nd type of watering method generally used, in case of newly planted Bonsai and before the roots develop. A sprinkler with small holes should be used when syringing or after new transplanting while the soil of the container has not yet settled. It is also useful in summer when the temperature is hot and dry. In case of a plant with a fully developed root system, watering should be done in summer once a day, early in the mornings or in the evenings, or twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening.
7.10 FERTILIZERS APPLICATION TO BONSAI Fertilizer is necessary for Bonsai, which are plants planted in small containers, with little soil, minimum nutrient in the soil, and yet must develop a thick trunk, branches, leaves, flowers and fruits. To develop full grown tree, need for fertilizer is very essential for Bonsai, from time to time. Without proper fertilizer application, proper growth of bonsai can not be possible. Excessive fertilizer application, invites undesirable effect on Bonsai and causing roots injury. 7.10.1 Form of Fertilizer
The principal fertilizer for Bonsai which is in growing process, should be given rapeseed cake, which contains three fertilizers- Nitrogen, Phosphate and Potash in the ratio of 5:3:2. It is safest to apply in Bonsai and most effective.
168 7.10.2 Methods of Fertilizer Application Bonsai
There are three methods of fertilizer application in Bonsai which are as below- i) Application of rapeseed cake in liquid form: Take one kg of rapeseed cake, kept in 3 liters of water (3 weeks in summer a two month in winter) mixture should be allowed to decompose thoroughly. Take one liter of this solution and dilute it 5 to 15 times in the water and put Bonsai in a tub, then pore this liquid in tub. This should be applied to the roots of bonsai but not to the base of trunk itself. The liquid diluted with five times with water is considered strong and diluted 15 times the same amount of water is considered weak. The weak liquid fertilizers should be used from spring to summer and the strong fertilizer from summer and to autumn. ii) Application in Powdered form: Rapeseed cake in powder form put in two or three lumps on the surface of Bonsai container soil. The amount of rapeseed cake powder should not more than 1 to 2 tea spoon full. This rapeseed cake gradually decomposes after three to four weeks and begin to take effect as fertilizer. The powder of rapeseed should be placed in different places, the second time. This method is also called depositing fertilizer. iii) Application in Dried Form: Rapeseed cake is needed with water, and prepare about 2-3 cm balls from this. Put these balls in a shaded airy place, for ferment, dry and harden naturally. Application method is similar to that of powdered fertilizer, two to three balls are placed separately on the surface of Bonsai soil. These balls of fertilizer are already fermented, so that efficiency as fertilizer starts within two weak. These are the three methods of rapeseed cake fertilizer used for Bonsai. Rapeseed cake, is alone is not sufficient as it has less quantity of Phosphate and Potash .In such cases mixed bone meal to meet the demand of more Phosphate and ashes of plant which is rich in potash contents. 7.10.3 Time of Fertilizer Application in Bonsai Under any method, use fertilizer in bonsai from early spring to mid of July when budding time start and from the end of August to the early September because during this period, the plant growth is more vigorous. No fertilizer should be applied immediately after repotting or transplanting, when roots are not fully developed. 169 Landscaping Fertilizer application should not be given during hot days of summer and long rainy season, to prevent root decays. Number of application should be given according with the growth of plants, leaf colour etc. Do not apply fertilizer when soil of container is dry, watering is essential prior to fertilizer application. Fertilizer should be given on fine or cloudy days but not in rainy season, it will wash away. The Bonsai trees which have been grown for its fruit beauty, should be given plenty of Phosphate and slightly more potash than the ordinary amount of potash when plant begins to bear fruit.
7.11 TRAINING TO BONSAI FOR DESIRED SHAPE
To develop a good Bonsai, it needs training to develop a desired shape of the Bonsai trunk. It can be done by pruning, bud pinching and wiring of trunk, branches etc. 7.11.1 Pruning To control the plant growth, to desirable direction. The pruning prevents the fresh buds from growing too long. It also helps in the growth of undeveloped bud of Bonsai. It develops the plant bush properly under limited light. 7.11.2 Pinching of buds
Plant the bud pinching that varies with the kind of tree. Some varieties require bud-pinching only once; other varieties require more than one pinching.
After pruning when new buds begin to grow, proper bud-pinching should not be neglected.
Remove the buds from places where they are dense, leaving only few buds which can be properly arranged into healthy branches.
Bud-pinching helps the process of ramification.
Bud-pinching reduces the consumption of nutrition.
It makes for more sunlight and better air circulation for the Bonsai plant.
The main purpose of bud-pinching is to improve the appearance of Bonsai tree, the development of branches and leaves, and also condition of fruit- bearing, by controlling the trunk, thick branches which form the outline of the Bonsai.
No bud-pinching should be done when Bonsai have been transplanted after pruning of its roots or branches, until the Bonsai have fully recovered their vigor. 170 7.11.3 Wiring Bonsai
The trunks and branches of Bonsai can be shaped by tying with copper wire of desired thickness. The wire is turned spirally round the trunk to give it the desired shape. The spiral of wire should be equal in size and not too near nor too far. The branches are shaped with the help of wire in the same manner, starting first with the lowest and proceeding upward till they are developed. By adopting the above methods, you can give any shape to your Bonsai, according to your choice.
7.12 REPOTTING OF OLD BONSAI POTS
In bonsai, it is the procedure adopted to prune the roots, remove nutrient depleted soil and make space for fresh compost, to grow properly. It is necessary to re-pot the bonsai more frequently. In some cases it is essential to Re-pot yearly or in some species once in two years.
7.13 PESTS AND DISEASES OF BONSAI
Like other horticultural crops, pests and some diseases also attack the bonsai. These can be controlled on the same line as in horticultural crops do. 7.13.1 Pests Control
Pests like aphids, caterpillar, and scales etc. are common and can be controlled by spraying with mild pesticides, whenever necessary. For insect/pests, a light insecticide such as Malathion, Rogour, Metasystox, and Nuvan will destroy aphids and caterpillars and spraying leaves and branches with soap water will remove scale insects. 7.13.2 Diseases and Control
Spray the bonsai with fungicides such as Bavistin, Captan etc. to control the diseases. After pruning bud pinching spraying of bonsai with light solution of fungicide is essential. After root pruning at the time of re-potting, treat the roots with light solution of fungicide (1 g/lit. of water) to control root rot like diseases.
Check Your Progress Exercise 2 Note : a) Space is given below for answers. b) Compare your answer with that given at the end of the unit. 1) What are different type bonsai ? ...... 171 Landscaping 2) What are the methods of fertilizer application in bonsai ? ...... 3) What are the methods to trained bonsai in desired shape ? ......
7.14 LET US SUM UP
In the previous units, you have studied different type of flowers, gardens and different type of landscaping features. Here in this unit you were told about a new art of landscaping known as bonsai. Bonsai means to develop a full tree with its all characters like plant stem, branches, canopy, flowers and fruit etc. in a miniature form in small container. This beautiful art of plants first have been developed in Japan and latter on to other countries. We have discussed in this unit all the factors involved to develop a good bonsai like plants used for bonsai, its preparation, plantation, elements used in bonsai, potting time, manuring, media, irrigation, training, pruning, re-potting and harmful insect, pests and diseases which harm the bonsai with their control. Hope, after studying all the factors regarding bonsai, you will be in a position to develop a good bonsai for your drawing room and house garden.
7.15 KEY WORDS Ever green : A plant which retains its leaves throughout the years. Layering : It is a vegetative method of propagation, first remove the bark of plant’s branch of a one year old, and form a ring in between two nodes, then put wet sphagnum moss around it and tie it with polythen sheet, water it daily, after 3-4 week, root will come out and new plant will develop. Remove it from union branch and plant it in the soil or pot after removing its polythen. Node : A stem joint at which the leaves are borne. The node may be notched or swellon and is a point from which the new roots develop in some plants, on vegetative multiplication. Pinching out : Also known as stopping of growth. A form of pruning practices by gently putting off, with forefinger and thumb, 172 the soft growing tip of shoots to induce bushiness. Root ball : The mass of potting mixture interspersed with roots seen Bonsai when a plant is taken from its pot. Tree : A woody stemmed plant with an obvious trunk, tops with branch, flower and fruits on branches.
7.16 FURTHER REFERENCES 1) Bonsai : Miniature potted plant - by Kyuzo Murats 2) Pocket: Encyclopedia for House plants - by John Brooks. 3) Delhi Garden Magazine: vol (39): March. 2001. 4) Lawn and Gardens - by S.L. Jindal. 7.17 ANSWERS TO CHECK YOUR PROGRESS EXERCISES
Check Your Progress Exercise 1 1) It is an art to develop a full form of plant in a small pot or container, some time in combination with rock of different form, in miniature form. It is a highest form of horticulture as a hobby; it was originated first in Japan and known as japans’ art to develop a full grown plant in a miniature form. 2) There are three essential elements which constitute a perfect bonsai. These are: The pots or containers used to plant a Bonsai plant. Bonsai soil mixture for Bonsai pot used for plantation. 2 to 10 year or more periods is required to develop a fully mature bonsai of pine species, ficus species, maple sp. can survive more than 70 years if proper care is given at proper time. Check Your Progress Exercise-2 1) There are 10 type of Bonsai namely formal upright, informal upright type: semi-cascade style: cascade style; slanting type: group planting multiple trunk style; rock planting type; trunk growing from one root; and twisted trunk style. 2) There are three methods to fertilizer the bonsai. They are: Application of rapeseed cake in liquid form. Application of rapeseed cake in powdered form. Application in dried form e.g. use of rapeseed cake in balls form prepared with the help of water. 3) The Methods to train bonsai in desired form are By pruning to give desired shape By pinching of buds. By wiring to give proper shape.
173 Landscaping UNIT 8 HANGING BASKETS AND FLOWER ARRANGEMENTS
Structure 8.0 Objectives 8.1 Introduction 8.2 Hanging Baskets and Flower Arrangements 8.2.1 Hanging Basket 8.2.1.1 Container and Media 8.2.1.2 Media for Filling 8.2.1.3 Plant Selection 8.2.1.4 Preparation of Hanging Basket 8.2.1.5 After Care 8.2.2 Flower Arrangement 8.2.2.1 Basic Types, Plant Material, Containers and Requirements 8.2.2.2 Plant Material Used for Flower Arrangement 8.2.2.3 Containers 8.2.2.4 Other Requirements 8.2.2.5 Western Type of Flower Arrangement 8.2.2.6 Eastern Style (Ikebana) 8.2.2.7 Modern Free Styles 8.2.2.8 Indian Loose Flower Arrangements 8.2.2.9 After Care 8.3 Let Us Sum Up 8.4 Key Words 8.5 Further References 8.6 Answers to Check Your Progress Exercises
8.0 OBJECTIVES
After studying this unit, the student will be in position to : define hanging basket and flower arrangement, know the basic requirements for preparing hanging baskets, identify suitable plants for hanging basket, know the basic method of preparation of hanging basket and the after care, identify the basic styles of flower arrangement, understand the basic principles of flower arrangement identify the suitable flowers for making of flower arrangement, and know the after care of fresh flower arrangement.
174 Hanging Basket and Flower 8.1 INTRODUCTION Arrangements
Hanging baskets refer to flowering or foliage plants trailing in baskets hanging on any support. Delicate, light weighted trailing or cascading plants are highly suitable for hanging baskets. Hanging baskets are ideal for indoors as well as outdoors. They can be displayed in verandas, the entrance of the house, balconies as well as in roof gardening. Hanging baskets look quite aesthetic in conservatories also.
Flower arrangement is a beautiful form of flower display. The art of Flower arrangement is a beautiful and creative hobby and also a means of earning good money. It is an art of aesthetically designing and arranging flowers and foliage in a container along with proper post care.
8.2 HANGING BASKET AND FLOWER ARRANGEMENT
8.2.1 Hanging Basket
Hanging baskets are good material for interior decoration of a wedding hall, party plot or restaurant to give a live look. These can be suspended from trees, lamp poles, fences, or on stands in outdoors (Figure 1).
Figure 1: Display of A hanging baskets in a conservatory. 175 Landscaping 8.2.1.1 Containers and Media A) Characteristics of the container The characteristics of container used as basket are : a) Clean, attractive and easy to handle. b) Light in weight but durable. c) Easy to hang. d) Side openings for plantation in the pot are preferable. e) Should have a drainage hole. f) Should have hooks to hang on a stand. B) Types of containers Various type of baskets can be used as hanging basket as given below : a) A wire basket with three hooks for hanging is a good container. b) Wooden basket made up of water resistant wood looks nice. c) Hanging baskets made out of dried gourd and coconut shells can also be used. d) Fibre or plastic baskets with attached dish at bottom for collection of drained water are also available. Earthen pots in form of hangings are heavier and hence not suitable. e) For indoor purposes baskets of brass, copper and ceramic or glazed pottery look very elegant.
Wire basket Wooden basket Plastic basket Fibre basket
Figure 2: Different types of hanging baskets.
8.2.1.2 Media for Filling
In the container of hanging basket, an inner lining of a thin gunny cloth is made over which about 2-3 cm thick sphagnum or sheet moss is spread. A single layer of Sphagnum moss can also be spread in the container. Compost made of equal parts of peat moss or coco-peat, leaf-mould, garden loam, sand and Farm yard manure is filled in the container for growing of plants. Some water absorbing crystals can also be added in the media. 176 8.2.1.3 Plant Selection Hanging Basket and Flower Arrangements i) Characteristics of plants for hanging basket a) Gentle and light in weight b) Fast growing or proliferating c) Spreading type or trailing or cascading habit d) If flowering than those having profuse flowering habit e) Easy to propagate ii) Foliage Plants Scindapsus (money plant), phillodendron, ivy, fittonia, maranta, tradescantia, sedum, setcreasea, pilea, ferns, asparagus, sedum, portulacarea, etc. iii) Flowering Plants Annuals: portulaca, petunia, sweet alyssum, dwarf marigold, daisy, dimorphotheca, cuphea, etc. Perennials: begonia, geranium, chrysanthemum, orchids, calceolaria, daisy, verbena, Vinca rosea, widelia, Zinnia linearis, etc
Pansy Orchids
Begonea Petunia
Figure 3 & 4: Flowering plants suitable for hanging baskets.
8.2.1.4 Preparation of Hanging Basket Procedure followed for preparation of hanging basket is given below: i) Initially, sphagnum moss is dipped in water for 3 h and thereafter it is squeezed lightly and spread inside the container. 177 Landscaping ii) Compost is added in the container. Small plantlets are inserted through the side hole or openings of the container. Thereafter, compost is again added to 3/ height of the container and the young plants are sown. Remaining compost is thereafter added leaving 2-3 cm space from the brim of the container and is made firm. iii) The planted hanging basket is dipped in a tub of water and hanged outdoors to allow the excess water to drain off before putting it back indoors.
1) Lining with wet sphagnum moss 2) Media filling 3) Inserting and planting plants on sideways at different levels form bottom (a,b,c) 4) Planting at the centre and at the top
Figure 5: Planting in the hanging basket.
8.2.1.5 After Care
There is need of frequent watering in hanging baskets to maintain their freshness and elegant look. Light fertilizing should also be done. Some points to be considered for maintain of hanging baskets is given below:
a) Dipping of the basket in a tub of water and hanged outdoors to allow the excess water to drain off before putting them back indoors.
b) The hanging basket is watered thoroughly with fine rose can. Water can be poured slowly from the top allowing enough time between two applications for the water to soak.
c) Once in month liquid manuring should be done.
d) Organic fertilizers like neem cake, castor cake, vermin-compost, FYM compost should be incorporated in the media at an interval of 6 months. Liquid fertilizers of NPK and micro-nutrients can be applied in small quantity as soil drench and as foliar spray @ 1 % at 15-30 days interval. 1-2 g of NPK mix (19: 19: 19) dissolved in 1 l of water can also be used. 178 e) Aeration should be maintained in the media. Frequent should be taken for Hanging Basket and Flower shallow tilling the media. Arrangements f) Dried and decayed foliage and flowers should be removed at frequent intervals.
Check Your Progress Exercise 1 Note : a) Space is given below for answers. b) Compare your answer with that given at the end of the unit. 1) What are the characteristics of container used for making hanging basket ? ...... 2) Where can we display hanging baskets ? ...... 3) Which flowering and foliage plants can be selected for hanging baskets ? ...... 8.2.2 Flower Arrangement
Flower arrangement is an organisation of design and colour towards creating an ambience using flowers, foliage and other floral accessories. Flower arrangement grants value addition to more than 50% to the cut flowers. There are various type of flower arrangements ranging from standard patterns of western style, Ikebana of eastern style, loose flower garlands and hair decoration ornaments to modern day free styles. Figure 6: A Flower arrangement. 179 Landscaping 8.2.2.1 Basic Types, Plant Material, Containers and Requirements Basic types of flower arrangement There are basic four types of flower arrangement: i) Western style ii) Ikebana (Eastern style) iii) Modern (Free style) iv) Loose flower arrangements (Indian concept) 8.2.2.2 Plant Material Used for Flower Arrangement
Different type of flowers and foliage material based on their shape, size and texture are used for making flower arrangements as explained in the below mentioned table-1 (Figure 7 and 8).
a. Line b. Mass c. Fillers d. Form
Figure 7: Different type of plant material used for flower arragements.
Line Mass Fillers Form
Figure 8: Different flowers used in flower arrangement. Table 1: Type of foliage and flowers based on shape used in flower arrangements.
No. Type Shape Flowers Foliage/branch/fruit 1. Line Thin, vertical, Tuberose, gladiolus,Iris, Twigs and branches of tapering Golden rod, Amaryllis, Bottle brush, Murraya Heliconia (upright) etc. exotica, etc.Foliage of Sansieveria, Asparagus, Cycus, Areca palm, Fishtail palm, Cycas, Rusellia, lily, etc.
Rose, gerbera, Pomegranate, apple, 2. Mass Round, used at amaryllis, carnation, oranges, etc center of anthurium arrangement 180 Hanging Basket and Flower 3. Form Uncommon, Bird of paradise, Cashew fruit, Grapes, Arrangements unusual shape Heliconia, etc Banana etc 4. Fillers Tiny, thin and Golden-rod, statice, Asparagus, thuja, spreading daisy, gypsophilla, casuarina, bottle brush, candytuft, lady’s lace, ferns onion inflorescene etc.
8.2.2.3 Containers i) Selection of containers for flower arrangements : Selection of an appropriate container for a specific flower arrangement is very important. The container to be used a floral arrangement could be selected from either basket, a vase or a bowl. Container serves as a foundation or the base of a flower design. A properly selected container should serve the functional utility and should be in harmony with the arrangement. The major considerations for selection of container are given below: ii) Function : The container for flower arrangement must be able to serve the following functions: a) Capable to hold water with adequate depth b) Provide support to the flowers c) Provide good balance to the whole flower arrangement iii) Material of container : Containers of different materials like glass, metal, plastic, porcelain or glazed pottery are available. These can be selected on the basis of personal preference and occasion. iv) Color : Containers with neutral colours like green, white, gray, brown, tan or black are highly suitable for most of the flower arrangements. Brown coloured containers are suitable for dried flowers, wood, or autumn-colored leaves. Metallic containers having a finish of silver, brass, bronze and gold suit sophisticated and traditional designs. v) Shape : Containers of varied shapes can be used according to the choice of arranger, the type of flower arrangement and the occasion (Figure 9).
Vases Basket (Cane)
Novelty Pedestal Basket (Ceramic)
Figure 9: Different type of containers used in flower arrangement. 181 Landscaping Table 2: Type of containers based on shape. Type Description Vases The height of container is greater than its width. It is not pedestal but is used for vertical designs. Bowls The width of the container is greater than the height. It is often used for table arrangements. Pedestals The container is elevated on a base that may be short or long stemmed. It is useful when a tall arrangement is needed yet the mass of a vase container is not desired. The ‘S’ curve and triangular types look perfect in pedestals. Baskets The baskets of wood or metal or bamboo are available. They are used for both vertical and horizontal designs. Round arrangements also look elegant in baskets. Novelty These are limitless in possibilities. Care should be taken to assure that they do not overpower the design. These are perfect specially for free styles.
8.2.2.4 Other Requirements
A) Material required for supporting flower stems i) Needlepoint Holders : Needlepoint holders are also called pin holders or frogs. Needlepoint holders are available in many sizes and shapes (round, oval, or square) to suit any particular arranging requirements. These are highly suitable for special designs where fewer flowers are to be used. They may be placed in any location at the base of the container and anchored for temporary or permanent use. These are available in copper, brass or coated iron. These are heavy in weight to hold the flowers in one position and to maintain its balance. (Figure 10 a).
(A) (B)
Figure 10. Support material used for arranging of flowers.
ii) Floral Foam : Various floral foam products are currently very popular as stem-supporting aids for flower arrangement. They are extremely porous to provide water to the inserted flower stems used in the arrangement. Floral foams are available in various shapes and size. Moreover, these can be given cut in any desired shape as per the requirement. The foam blocks must be thoroughly saturated with water 182 before being used to support fresh flowers. The quick-filling floral foams Hanging Basket and Flower may be simply placed in a bucket filled with preservatives and water. Arrangements The quick-filling floral foams may be simply placed in a bucket filled with preservatives and water. (Figure 10 b.)
iii) Chicken Wire : Chicken wires are used for giving support to the large floral bouquets. A filling material like sand or vermiculite or chopped/ unchopped floral foam is also used along with it. The chicken wire or floral netting having a 0.5-1-inch mesh is generally used. The shredded filler material is first pressed firmly into the cavity of the container. A layer of chicken wire is then placed over the top of the filler material properly securing it. Use of chicken wire provides extra support to the floral arrangements. B) Tools used in flower arrangements i) Florist cutter: They have short blades with serrated edges and are used for cutting both herbacaeous and woody plant material. ii) Pruning shears: These are used for cutting woody materials. iii) Ribbon Shears: These are similar to ordinary scissors in appearance. These are needed for trimming fine material like leaves and filler type material. iv) Styrofoam or floral foam cutter: A widely serrated cutting edge makes it suitable for cutting and shaping blocks of floral foam. C) Wiring Materials i) Florist Wire: Aluminium or copper wire is used to support weak flower stems and to hold curved lines in arrangements. It varies according to length and thickness (gauge). The heaviest gauge is number 18 and the finest is number 32 . ii) Spool wire: A heavy gauge wire is needed to wire arrangements such as wreaths and door swags. iii) Twisters: These are short pieces of wire enclosed in paper. They fill a number of roles where support of repair is needed like in broach and buttonaire. iv) Wooden picks: Green wood picks with a length of thin wire attached can be fastened to stems or other materials and inserted into a holding substance. They are widely used with nonliving arrangements. D) Adhesive Materials
Floral tape
This tape is similar to a waxed crepe paper. It has a stretching quality and is used to wrap flower stems when wire is needed for their support. It is available in different color shades to blend into the arrangement.
E) Accessories Some accessories are needed to add some more elegant look to the flower arrangement. Soft colored laces and ribbons look very pretty in making corsages and hand bouquets. 183 Landscaping Ribbons and Lace: Different colour lace and ribbons are used as an accessory in floral bouquets and arrangements.
Soft Nylon nets: These are used in different shades as per preference in some hand bouquets and corsages (floral design worn on dress).
8.2.2.5 Western Type of Flower Arrangement
a) Principles It consists of more number of flowers and depicts a complete and full effect. The major principles of western style of flower arrangement are given below: i) Design: It is the structural pattern of the floral arrangement. It is a visualized plan about the size and shape of the floral arrangement. The design is essentially determined by the location, occasion and the material available. ii) Harmony: The flowers, foliage and twigs used for the arrangement should complement each other and should be harmony. iii) Focalization of arrangements: Each arrangement should have a focal point and the whole arrangement should appear radiating from that focal point. iv) Scale and proportion: There should be appropriate scale and proportion between the container and arrangement and placement of arrangement. v) Balance: The arrangement whether symmetrical or asymmetrical should appear sturdy and balanced as a whole by itself (Figure 11).
Figure 11: Balance in flower arrangements (Symmetrical and asymmetrical). vi) Depth and rhythm: The arrangement should not be flat but should have depth and all the flower and foliage material should be in rhythm. The arrangements should not give monotonous look. It should look fresh, growing and every time with a change. vii) Repetition and Continuity: The western arrangement comprise of more number of flowers. There should be repetition of flower type and colour in one arrangement. There should be a link among all the materials used in the arrangement and should look continuous.
184 b) Standard Patterns of western style Hanging Basket and Flower Arrangements Standard patterns of western arrangements are as given below (See figure 12)
Figure 12 : Standard patterns of western style. i) Triangular : Line type of flowers are selected to make the basic structure, mass flowers are arranged in that shape and finally fillers are added to give a complete look (Figure 13 a). Triangular arrangements are of two types, viz., symmetrical and asymmetrical. ii) Round or spherical : Flowers radiate from centre towards all directions with equal emphasis. iii) Oval : With line type and mass type of flowers the basic shape is first made and then final touch is given with fillers. iv) ‘S’ curve : With line type of material the edges and ends of ‘S’ shape is made and followed my mass and fillers type of flowers in the centre part. 185 Landscaping v) ‘L’ shape : Line flowers are used to give the basic ‘L’ shape and then centre of the flower are focused with mass type of flowers. Fillers are used to give a complete look (Figure 13 b). vi) Crescent : With line type of material the edges and ends of crescent shape is made and followed my mass and fillers type of flowers in the centre part. (Figure 13 c).
a. Western style: b. Western style: c. Crescent Symmetrical triangle L shaped
Figure 13(a,b&c): Some western style of flower arrangements. c) Other patterns i) Floral Baskets: Floral baskets are flower arrangements done in baskets of varied depths. ii) Floral Wreaths: It is a floral arrangement in the form of a firm and bold circular garland, usually woven of flowers and foliage on a fixed shape wire, that traditionally indicates honour or celebration. iii) Corsages: These are small floral decoration designed to be worn on the dress and are very popular in western countries. iv) Bottonaire: These are mini floral decorations designed to be worn on the dress. It consists of a small flower bud commonly a rose bud which is finely and firmly attached to a leaf. 8.2.2.6 Eastern Style (Ikebana)
Ikebana symbolizes living flower. It is a Japanese word, meaning: Ike (To set in/To live/) + bana (flower). It is an expression of liveliness and has spiritual significance. Over the seven centuries of its evolution, Ikebana has developed many different styles of arrangement with different philosophies behind each. The first teachers and students were priests and members of the nobility. As time passed, many schools arose, styles changed, and Ikebana came to be practiced at all levels of Japanese society. Some of the styles are extremely simple others are extravagant. (Figure 14). Figure 14: Ikebana
186 a) Principles of Ikebana Hanging Basket and Flower Arrangements i) Asymmetry: There is never symmetry in the ikebana types yet the arrangement looks balanced. ii) Few flowers: Few flowers are used to form basic lines of ikebana and does give filling effect. The arrangement depicts space and creativity. iii) Closeness to Nature: Life appears to be associated with nature. iv) Continuity: Ikebana always give a growing and live look. It should not appear inert but should appear persisting and maintaining continuity. b) Flower and Foliage Material i) Stems: They basically form the main basic lines specially the shin and soe of the ikebana. Examples: Murraya exotica, defoliated stems, etc ii) Flowers: These form the tai, the third line of ikebana and also used as fillers. Tall spike of flowers having curves like gladiolus, iris etc might be used as shin line of ikebana. iii) Examples: anthurium, rose, gerbera, etc iv) Foliage: Foliage may is used as main line or filler as per the need of the design and the artist. Example: Sansieveria, Fishtail palms, Dieffenbachia, Agloanema etc. c) Ikebana-Containers Traditional ikebana containers were of three types 1) shallow and tall containers 2) Wall containers, such as gourds, baskets and bamboo vases 3) Containers suspended from some support like full moon shaped containers, well buckets and boats. Nowadays, ikebana containers are available in varied forms of porcelain, lacquer ware lined with copper, glass (Figure 15). Bamboo has always been popular as ikebana container.
Figure 15: Containers used for ikebana 187 Landscaping d) Support Material for Ikebana Supporting material required for arranging flowers in ikebana style are: 1) Hana Kubari (Cross bar): It consists of two twigs criss-crossed, tied and fixed in the mouth of the vase. This is generally used for rikka and nagiere styles. 2) Kenzan (Pinholder): This is easy to use and arrange flowers for ikebana. It is used exclusively for moribana and also for free styles in shallow containers i.e. bowls. e) Basic lines of Ikebana Following are the basic lines of ikebana: a) Shin : Shin forms the most important basic line of the ikebana. It symbolizes Heaven and expresses truth. Hence, this should be strongest, firm and tallest among all. Size of shin equals to (Length + Width of the container) x 1.5-3 times b) Soe : Soe is the second important line of ikebana. It symbolizes man and expresses body, the human being. The size of soe equals to 2/3-3/4 of shin c) Hikae/tai : Tai is the third important line of ikebana that symbolizes earth and expresses support. Thus it denotes base and environment. The size of hikae equals to 1/3-1/2 of shin The main lines may either be on the left or the right hand side of the vertical zero degree in the centre of the ikebana container. (Figure 16)
Figure 16: Basic lines of ikebana. f) Basic styles of ikebana i) Rikka : Rikka is the original and oldest form of ikebana that follows strict rules. Rikka consists of a highly sophisticated and complicated design consisting of nine basic and well defined lines originating from a single point in the bronze vase. ii) Shoka : Shoka is arranged with three basic lines and two more i.e total five well defined lines. 188 iii) Moribana : Moribana is arranged in a shallow container (bowl) with Hanging Basket and Flower three basic lines with the help of pinholder (Figure 17 a). Arrangements iv) Nagiere : Nagiere is arranged with three basic lines in a tall vase without using pinholder instead hana-kubari (cross-twigs) are used for support of the cut flowers and foliage (Figure 17 b).
Figure 17(a) Line diagram of Moribana
Figure 17(b) Line diagram of nagiere Figure 17(a&b): Line diagrams moribana and nagiere. v) Morimono : This style developed in the 20th century and this style incorporates use of fruits and vegetables. vi) Jiyuka : This style originated and developed in the 20th century as free style Some line sketches and photographs are given in (figure 18 & 19). 189 Landscaping
Figure 18: Some sketches of ikebana
Nagiere Moribana
Figure 19: Some photographs of ikebana
8.2.2.7 Modern Free Styles Modern free styles of flower arrangements do not follow geometrical forms of western type flower arrangement and the strict rules of ikebana. Here, emphasis is mainly on aesthetics and overall appearance. These free styles are designed to complement the occasion. There may be more or few number of flowers and foliage. The arranger can use sculpture, statue, candle or small fountain or even pot plants according to one’s imagination and creativity. Free styles are very popular for festivals, wedding and special occasion celebrations, inaugural functions, etc. 8.2.2.8 Indian Loose Flower Arrangements
The loose flower- arrangements in form of garlands ornaments has been the tradition of India since time immemorial. Other forms of loose flower 190 arrangements are popular in form of floral ornaments for hair decoration like Hanging Basket and Flower Veni, Gajra, Broach (Figure 20). Flower rangoli made up of loose flowers or Arrangements petals is also popular specially during festival and celebrations. The tradition of water-floral rangoli is age old and till today hold special significance during religious and ceremonies and various traditional customs. i) Veni : The veni is single or multiple rows or chain of flowers bunched into one unit or as loose multiple flower strings, which is applied on long open hairs or plaits (choti). These flower chains are nothing but mini garlands prepared by piercing flowers with needle and thread. Generally, fragrant white flowers like jasmine and tuberose are used. Although, in south India, Barleria and Crossandra veni is also available. ii) Gajra : Gajra is wider, circular and firm form of veni. The gajras are made out of a single fragrant species of flowers such jasmine, tuberose, crossandra, Barleria or Michelia champaka or mixture of flowers and decorative foliage. Mostly, white colored fragrant flowers are preferred and to add design and appearance rose flowers or petals are also woven along. Several decorative materials such as jari or silk strings or threads may be used to make the gajra more gorgeous. iii) Broach : Broach is a flexible and stylish form of hair decorative flower arrangement. It is prepared, using thin wire by spirally and tightly turning around the flower bud pedicel. It can be made into any shape as desired and after preparing also it can be turned to give any shape. For broach making buds of Jasmines J. sambac, J. arborescencens and Tabernaemontana are used. Petals of rose and fine leaves of fern asparagus and aralia are also woven to provide excellent designer look. iv) Flower Rangoli : This custom of rangoli has a religious overtone and is done during puja (prayer offerings) in front of temples or in some social functions such as marriage. Rangoli when done with flowers add life and grace to the beautiful display. For making rangoli, a selected design is drawn on the ground. Thereafter, the whole flowers or petals and foliage are arranged with proper colour combination according to the design. Flower petals of varied colours like Bougainvillea, jasmine, gaillardia, marigold, amaranthus, cock’s comb, rose, chrysanthemum, Aster etc give wonderful effect to the floral rangoli. Besides flowers, fruits like jamun, ber, fig, sapota, grapes also look wonderful when used in proper design. Even vegetables like cauliflower, okra, peas, beans etc can be used in proper way.
Broach-hair decoration
Figure 20: Some loose flower arrangements.
191 Landscaping 8.2.2.9 After Care a) The position of flower arrangement is very important. The design type, height and its two or three dimensional view is important for the placement of the arrangement. b) The arrangement should be way from direct natural wind or fan and any source of heat like the top of the television, near a lamp and strong afternoon sunshine. c) The water of the arrangement should be changed daily. d) If floral foam is used, it should be drenched or sprinkled with water several times a day. The flowers should be sprayed with a humidifier to prolong the fresh look and their vase life.
Check Your Progress Exercise 2 Note : a) Space is given below for answers. b) Compare your answer with that given at the end of the unit. 1) What are principles of western style of flower arrangement ? ...... 2) Which are the different patterns of western style of flower arrangement ? ...... 3) Which different type of containers are used for flower arrangements ? ...... 4) Which are the basic lines in ikebana ? ...... 192 Hanging Basket and Flower 8.3 LET US SUM UP Arrangements
We have studied in this unit about hanging baskets and flower arrangements. We are well acquainted with the characteristics of containers used as hanging baskets and plants selected for it. We are now well aware of the plant media used in hanging basket, the procedure of making it and also the after care of hanging basket. We have studied about different styles of flower arrangements, the containers used, the support material needed for making flower arrangements and all about some other accessories. Significance of ikebana and the basic lines of ikebana viz., shin, soe and tai have been explained. Different patterns of western styles and different styles of ikebana have been discussed. Different types of Indian style loose flower arrangements like veni, gajra, broach etc have also been explained.
8.4 KEY WORDS Hanging basket : A Hanging basket refers to flowering or foliage plants trailing in baskets hanging on any support. Flower arrangement : It is an art of aesthetically designing and arranging flowers and foliage in a container along with proper post care. Flower arrangement is an organisation of design and colour towards creating an ambience using flowers, foliage and other floral accessories. Floral Wreaths : It is a floral arrangement in the form of a firm and bold circular garland, usually woven of flowers and foliage on a fixed shape wire, that traditionally indicates honour or celebration. Corsages : These are small floral decoration designed to be worn on the dress and are very popular in western countries. Ikebana : Ikebana is eastern style of flower arrangement that symbolizes living flower. It is a Japanese word, meaning: Ike (To set in/To live/) + bana (flower). It is an expression of liveliness and has spiritual significance. Ve ni : A veni is single or multiple rows or chain of flowers bunched into one unit or as loose multiple flower strings, which is applied on long open hairs or plaits (choti). Generally, fragrant white flowers like jasmine and tuberose are used. Although, in south India, Barleria and Crossandra veni is also available. Gajra : Gajra is wider, circular and firm form of veni. The gajras are made out of a single fragrant species of flowers such jasmine, tuberose, crossandra, Barleria or Michelia champaka or mixture of flowers and decorative foliage. Broach : Broach is a flexible and stylish form of hair decorative flower arrangement. It is prepared, using thin wire by spirally and tightly turning around the flower bud 193 Landscaping pedicel. It can be made into any shape as desired and after preparing also it can be turned to give any shape. For broach making buds of Jasmines J. sambac, J. arborescencens and Tabernaemontana are used. Petals of rose and fine leaves of fern asparagus and aralia are also woven to provide excellent designer look.
8.5 FURTHER REFERENCES 1) Rekha Sarin. The art of Flower Arrangement. UBS Publishers Distributers Ltd. 2) Gary L. Mc.Daniel. Floral Design and arrangement. Prentice hall Company, Virginia. 3) Shushui Komoda and Horst Pointer. Ikebana-Spirit and Technique. Blandford Press Ltd, Poole, New York and Sydney. 4) Fort, V.P.A Complete Guide to Flower Arrangement. Viking Press, New York. 8.6 ANSWERS TO CHECK YOUR PROGRESS EXERCISES
Check Your Progress Exercise 1 1) The characteristics of container used as hanging basket are a) Clean, attractive and easy to handle b) Light in weight but durable c) Easy to hang d) Side openings for plantation in the pot are preferable e) Should have a drainage hole. 2) Hanging baskets are ideal for indoors as well as outdoors. They can be displayed in verandas, the entrance of the house, balconies as well as in roof gardening. Hanging baskets are good material for interior decoration of a wedding hall, party plot or restaurant to give a live look. These can be suspended from trees, lamp poles, fences, or on stands in outdoors. Hanging baskets look quite aesthetic in conservatories also.
3) Many type of foliage and flowering plants can be selected for growing in hanging baskets as given below:
Foliage plants: Scindapsus (money plant), phillodendron, ivy, fittonia, maranta, tradescantia, sedum, setcreasea, pilea, ferns, asparagus, sedum, etc
Flowering Plants: portulaca, petunia, sweet alyssum, dwarf marigold, daisy, dimorphotheca, cuphea, begonia, geranium, chrysanthemum, orchids, calceolaria, daisy, verbena, etc.
194 Check Your Progress Exercise 2 Hanging Basket and Flower Arrangements 1) Different principles of western style of flower arrangement are given below i) Design: It is the structural pattern of the floral arrangement. It is a visualized plan about the size and shape of the floral arrangement. ii) Harmony: The flowers, foliage and twigs used for the arrangement should complement each other and should be in harmony. iii) Focalization of arrangements: Each arrangement should have a focal point and the whole arrangement should appear radiating from that focal point. iv) Scale and proportion: There should be appropriate scale and proportion between the container and arrangement and placement of arrangement. v) Balance: The arrangement should appear sturdy and balanced as a whole by itself. vi) Depth and rhythm: The arrangement should have depth and all the flower and foliage material should be in rhythm. vii) Repetition and Continuity: There should be repetition of flower type and colour in one arrangement to develop a linkage in the whole arrangement. 2) The different standard patterns of western style of flower arrangements are Triangular (Symmetrical and asymmetrical), ‘L’ shaped, oval, round, ‘S’ curve and Crescent shaped.
3) Different types of containers based on shape used for making flower arrangement are vases, bowls, pedestal, baskets and novelties (artistic in different shapes). Besides based on material also there are different containers made up of glass, wooden, cane, porcelain, copper, plastics etc.
4) There are three basic lines of ikebana as given below: a) Shin : It symbolizes Heaven and expresses truth. It strongest, firm and tallest among all. b) Soe : It is the second important line of ikebana. It symbolizes man and expresses body, the human being. c) Hikae/tai : It symbolizes earth and expresses support. Thus it denotes base and environment. It is shorted of the three lines.
195 Notes