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Hidesign CEO Dilip Kapur Traces the Journey of His Iconic Brand That Has Risen from Very Humble Beginnings

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Hidesign CEO Dilip Kapur Traces the Journey of His Iconic Brand That Has Risen from Very Humble Beginnings INTERVIEW Auroville’s Simple Leather Man Hidesign CEO Dilip Kapur traces the journey of his iconic brand that has risen from very humble beginnings 24 | DECEMBER 2017 CEO INDIA | 25 INTERVIEW t was the late 1970s when he applied for a job at a Denver-based Puducherry-born, Sri Aurobindo leather shop called Poor Richard’s. Ashram-schooled Dilip Kapur This nine-month stint resurrected his came back to his hometown love for leather that was “somehow in I his blood” because of his father whose after studying at Phillips Academy, Andover and Princeton. His return was leather shoe factory burnt down during well-timed. On February 28th, 1968, the Partition. “I had never seen him some 5,000 people from 124 nations work with leather. But I loved working and 23 Indian states congregated with leather at Denver, learning how to to inaugurate the future township hand dye leather, cut it and assemble of Auroville in a solemn ceremony. bags,” says Kapur. Today, Hidesign “We believed Auroville would create products are made in three factories in a model to change the world. There Pondichery, Ranipet Baddi and Sikkim. were people, rebellious and innovative, Known for its craftsmanship and from all over the world. Puducherry innovative design, in India, Hidesign itself was a quiet town, culturally led by has 81 exclusive stores; it is also Auroville and the Ashram,” says Kapur. present in 160 shop-in-shops and In the last 49 years, this quaint major e-commerce platforms. little town on the Southern coast of Internationally, their distribution and India has certainly made a mark for franchise stores are spread across itself in terms of heritage, travel and 23 countries that include Russia, Sri KNOWN FOR ITS CRAFTSMANSHIP AND INNOVATIVE DESIGN, IN INDIA, HIDESIGN HAS 81 EXCLUSIVE STORES; IT IS ALSO PRESENT IN 160 SHOP-IN-SHOPS AND MAJOR E-COMMERCE PLATFORMS hide! Kapur has given Puducherry its Lanka, Prague and Kenya; Indonesia most famous shopping address in the and Dubai are in the offing. Since form of his internationally-acclaimed leather is the star of Kapur’s show, luxury brand – Hidesign, which has a he goes to great lengths to procure current turnover of `160-170 crores. it from tanneries all over the world Meant for those who want to indulge in like Brazil, the highlands of East genuine leather goods that are sturdy, Africa, Europe and New Zealand. stylish and almost ageless, Hidesign From the time, he started working was established in 1978 with a two- wholeheartedly with leather his person artisan workshop once Kapur curiosity has led him to explore the moved to Auroville from the States traditions of vegetable tanning in after completing his PhD. Thereafter, south India, probably the greatest he started experimenting with leather centre in the world of vegetable as a hobby. “Friends and friends of tanning traditions. No wonder, he friends started buying and selling prefers, “Kerala as the climate and them in Australia and the US. One day, educated farmers ensure healthy I received a large order and realized I animals,” and a good quality hide. needed a workshop.” Apart from the leather, Kapur is Interestingly, up until then, he had equally stringent about the dyes used never thought of starting a leather at Hidesign. business. But during his stay in the US, His bags, which are known for to sustain himself during the summer, earthy hues and natural finish, are 26 | DECEMBER 2017 CEO INDIA | 27 INTERVIEW made with Azo Free dyes certified by training, Kapur has continued to It was a natural progression for him the European community. But Kapur push the boundaries of his brand at since he has always seen Hidesign as insists that it’s not the dye that makes a conscious and sustainable scale. a lifestyle brand in accessories. “I used Hidesign special. It’s how they tan Apart from being heavily impacted by to make handcrafted sandals in 1981,” it and with what! “We avoid chrome the Ashram, Hidesign has been built he reveals! tanning as chrome is carcinogenic and on the principles of discipline, purity Even though his hands are full with a major polluter. After a lot of research, and a thirst to create a home-grown Hidesign but Kapur puts in as much we have developed fashionable leather, leather brand that has an incredible enthusiasm and effort into his hotels which is vegetable-tanned using the aura of its own. Promenade and Le Dupleix. “The latter seeds and barks from trees.” Even the Kapur has always designed his bags. is where Hidesign started, and when brass buckles on the bags are sand- At the moment, Hidesign has a design we moved to a custom made factory. casted and polished by hand at their team in Puducherry, with a couple of Le Dupleix was the greatest governor own brass forge. When it’s time to designers in Paris and London. But of French Puducherry and when his stitch the bag, Kapur’s group of well- majority of the design work is done in house was torn down we bought the trained craftsmen use their hands to house. “I have never formally studied wood work and recreated it at Le sew up the pieces together. design; I think design is a reflection Dupleix, and named it in his honour. I The brand also has a lot of of your culture and values, of being love the lifestyle that hotels can create international collaborations to boast simple, clean and natural, and avoid where people connect, bring families about. In 2007, the hallowed house following fashion diktats.” together and great joy is created.” of Louis Vuitton bought a small stake As a serious entrepreneur, a At Le Dupleix, innovative heritage in Hidesign. At the moment, Kapur grateful Kapur continuously thanks preservation combines with modernity works extensively with talented artists his alma mater for shaping his mind and the original culture of French I HAVE NEVER FORMALLY STUDIED DESIGN; I THINK DESIGN IS A REFLECTION OF YOUR CULTURE AND VALUES, OF BEING SIMPLE, CLEAN AND NATURAL, AND AVOID FOLLOWING FASHION DIKTATS and designers across the world and his brand. “In the Sri Aurobindo Puducherry. As for The Promenade, like José Levy (ex-creative director, Ashram, I was part of the free system it’s the modern buzz of India teamed Emanuel Ungaro), Fabian Lintott, the of education. I later moved to Philips with local culture. The Storytellers’ photographer Dinh Thi Thien in Paris Academy, Andover and then Princeton. Bar at the same hotel is a big hit with and so on. The school at the Ashram gave me the crowd. It’s the creation of Simran, Creating bespoke products by the freedom and the ability to think the founder of Blue Frog, Ayaz Basrai hand represents the core philosophy independently. Phillips Academy, of The Busride Design Studio, and of Kapur’s life that there is great one of the toughest schools in the Kapur’s desire to have a crazy place beauty in simplicity – a lovely thought United States, taught me discipline full of interesting people in Puducherry. process that was nurtured during his and ambition. Princeton taught me to “Both hotels symbolise Puducherry; upbringing at the Aurobindo Ashram. think and solve problems, while the they are truly connected to the local His spiritually-inclined father sold off Cultural Revolution in the late 1960s but belong to a modern lifestyle, which his business and joined the Ashram at Princeton greatly influenced my is global.” when he was five years old. He grew up rebellion against uniformity and a In between all his work, his zest in Puducherry with his sister Neelam plastic culture,” he says candidly. So it for life and affection for leather, and parents, and has fond memories comes as no surprise to know that he there’s one place that continues to of studying in this sacred place. “The didn’t do any R&D before setting shop guide his sense and sensibility, and free system of education, the extreme in Puducherry. He designed by gut. nurture his soul. It is Auroville! He simplicity of life and the values of the For Kapur, bag making is a craft, came back from America, because he ashram strongly influenced both my with a sense of lifestyle but a lot of it is wanted to be a part of Auroville. Living values and aesthetics and these still instinctive and comes from a love for in a sprawling house amidst natural continue to influence the direction of the craft and natural materials. beauty, away from the noise and the Hidesign,” explains Kapur. Apart from making bags, in 2014 crowd, in the middle of the Auroville Despite receiving no formal leather Kapur diversified into making shoes. forest is one of Kapur’s greatest 28 | DECEMBER 2017 CEO INDIA | 29 INTERVIEW pleasures. “I love being surrounded by days back and his children are already nature. I can’t survive big cities for too fighting over it. long,” he shares. In his free time, Kapur teaches Known for its experiential feel and international affairs at the Auroville vibrant vibe, Auroville stands for other School. That’s his way of staying touch values like sustainability and ecology, with the constantly growing Auroville says Kapur which are at the heart of its youth brigade, who “sometimes are goals. “The afforestation at Auroville great and sometimes a pain with their where three million trees have been lack of interest in the world!” planted is one of the greatest examples Something else that keeps of successful mixed tree planting in the him busy is his work with heritage world.” As part of its CSR initiatives preservation groups of Puducherry Hidesign has also been active in where he has helped liaison with educational research and ecological the government and met with work like planting a forest and considerable success.
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