CHAPTER 3 You Need Never Be Without a Taco in Mexico

Tacos are not a serious meal, but they are taken very seriously. Even the most humble taco stand in Mexico is plastered with signs proclaiming that here are to be found tacos ricos, tacos super- fantasticos, tacos el mejores del mundo. Humility is clearly not part of the recipe for a great taco. What is essential are freshness and character - delivering big flavors in small bites. CHAPTER 3 You need never be without a taco in Mexico. In the morning, stands offer meltingly tender braised meats, juicy and savory with chile and tomato- a perfect mid-morn- ing pick-me-up. Then, just in the nick of time, the smoke and wonderful odors of grilling meats fills the daytime streets , with carne asada grills and chickens smoke-roasting over wood, rotisseries loaded with pork al pastor and discas bub- bling away with crisp fish and shrimp for tacos. But even this cherished, ancient routine is changing, thanks to a constant two-way flow between street traditions and modern innovation.

The cheerful anarchy of the street rewards taco-makers who treat their calling as art, where the culinary performance, good or bad, is an arms length away from the customer, and there is no hiding, no fixing, no fudging, no garnishing. Like great chefs, fearless taqueros are always evolving, nicking ideas from anyone and anything. The taco is the perfect vehicle for experimentation, because really, anything goes in a taco – so long as it fits on a tortilla, can be eaten standing up without implements, and is perfectly delicious.

The tacos in this chapter were inspired by great ideas from both sides of the bor- der. While many flavors are traditional, you will see that some of the techniques and combinations take the typical taco up to the edge – and occasionally, over it. An amusing trend is the iron law of escalation: that a taco may always be made larger, hotter, gooier, or have more goodies on top. But it’s all in good fun.

2 AMOR Y TACOS TACOS 3 SHRIMP TACO ‘DORADO’ WITH CHIPOTLE SAUCE AND MANGO HABANERO SALSA

Makes 12 substantial tacos, enough for 6 hungry people. The dorado taco is a ‘super-taco.’ Given the Mexican penchant for elaboration, it’s not surprising that the taco dorado can be over the top (see also Taco Vampiro, page 000.) A good ‘dorado’ is gooey, substantial, and filling – a corn tortilla fried on the griddle with a little butter or oil until sort of half-crisp ( not a hard-shell taco ,which is im- possible to eat) then stuffed with cheese and any number of fillings and sauces. This one, a favorite, tops melted cheese with garlicky shrimp, guacamole and chipotle sauce, then finishes with a spoonful of sweet-hot Mango Habanero Salsa and fresh cilantro sprigs. It comes together quickly.

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons butter or olive oil (divided use) 1 teaspoon chopped garlic 1 pound medium shrimp, peeled, tails removed (cut in half if large) 1 teaspoon finely chopped chipotles in adobo x teaspoon salt Large corn tortillas 1 cup grated jack cheese Guacamole (page 000) Chipotle Sauce (page 000) Mango Habanero Salsa (page 000) Cilantro sprigs

In an 8-inch sauté pan, melt 1 tablespoon of butter over medium heat. When it is heated, but not brown, add the garlic and shrimp, and cook, stirring until the shrimp are pink. Stir in chipotles and salt and remove from heat. Preheat a heavy pan or griddle over medium heat and brush lightly with some of the remaining butter or olive oil. Set a corn tortilla on the griddle and scatter 2 table- spoons of shredded jack cheese evenly over the tortilla.. Set 3 or 4 shrimp to one side, fold the tortilla in half and continue to cook on both sides until cheese is melted and the tortilla is lightly crisped and golden brown. Open the taco. Dollop 1 teaspoon of Chipotle Sauce on the shrimp and follow with a tablespoon each of guacamole and Mango Habanero Salsa. Tuck a couple of cilantro

6 AMOR Y TACOS TACOS 7 HOW TO WARM A TORTILLA Prepare a tortilla basket lined with a napkin, or a double layer of foil that can be folded over itself to keep the tortillas warm and steaming. Heat a heavy pan or comal until very hot, almost smoking. Never grease the pan. Lay a couple of tortillas in the pan, press gently for several seconds, then turn and heat the other side. The tortillas are ready when they are soft and pliable. Stack the tortillas in the basket and fold the napkin, or foil, over to keep in the heat. Repeat with remaining tortillas.

CORN OR FLOUR? Taco stand tacos are always made on fresh corn tortillas; flour tortillas are eaten in restaurants and at home. You may use either in any of the recipes, but I think corn always tastes best.

TACO RULES Never overfill your taco. Hold with 2 hands while eating, and place your little finger over the end to keep in N the filling. N With braised meat tacos, offer a small bowl of the juices for dipping between bites. N SALSAS & GARNISHES Salsas add that final hit of freshness and color. Salsas should always be well- seasoned and powerfully flavored. N Always offer a couple of salsas, one hot and one mild, and a pureed sauce (such as Avocado-Cilantro Sauce or Chipotle Sauce) to add moisture. N Acidic salsas, such as salsa verde made with tomatillos, are essential with rich meats like pork and tongue. N Garnishes add crunch, color and yet another shot of flavor. Typical garnishes might include: N Diced white onions (sometimes mixed with chopped cilantro) Cilantro sprigs Cut limes

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