The Newcomer’s Guide to San Miguel de Allende

What’s Inside? All the details you’ll need to: • set up your utilities

• make emergency phone calls

• use the metric system

• meet others with similar interests

• enjoy cultural events

• find everything from This Guide Is For You If... doctors to hair stylists

• You’ve just moved to San Miguel and you’re not quite sure how • learn important words in to go about setting up your new life. Spanish

• better understand Mexican • You’re a visitor here for a few weeks or even a few months, and culture you’re ready to dive in but are hoping for some “insider” tips.

• You’re thinking of moving here and want to get the low down on la vida loca, the crazy wonderful life we expats enjoy here in SMA.

Brought to you by Realty San Miguel... one of the largest and most transition a smooth one. Our 185-8407 (214.884.7540 from respected real estate website, RealtySanMiguel.com, the U.S.) or come see us at agencies in San Miguel de also offers a wide range of Hernández Macías 101, in Allende. We understand that resources about San Miguel, Centro, with any questions you living in San Miguel for the including current news, videos, might have about purchasing a first time is both exciting and real estate blogs, and one of property or home here in San challenging, and we hope the largest selections of prop- Miguel. We’d love to earn your this guide will help make your erties for sale. Call us at business!

! © NANCY P. HARDCASTLE DO NOT REPRODUCE WITHOUT PERMISSION !1 Table of Contents

Cooking in San Miguel ...... 4 Shipping Services Baking at High Altitudes MexPost and the “Regular” Post Office Equivalents Substitutions Medical Care...... 23

Daylight Savings Time...... 6 The Metric System...... 24 Conversions EMERGENCIES!...... 6 Important Phone Numbers and Money...... 25 Related Information Traveler’s Checks and Cash ATM Fees & Precautions Food...... 9 Exchange Houses vs. Banks Long Term Banking Disinfecting Your Produce The Food “Schedule” Eating on the Street The Tamale Stand LIVE WEB CAM! The Gorditas Ladies Check out what’s happening in The Fruit Stand The Ice Cream Stand El Jardin, the main square of Anatomy of a Taco Stand San Miguel de Allende, by In a Restaurant clicking here.

Information About San Miguel... .14 Realty San Miguel.com The Civil List The Atención Out and About...... 28 The Juarde Greetings and Exclamations The Phone Book Gestures Leaving the House The Facilities (bathroom etiquette)

Insurance - Auto...... 17 Phone Calls...... 30

Legal Matters...... 18 Real Estate...... 31 For American citizens We Welcome The Curious For Canadian Citizens Know What You Want The Immigration Office & Visas We Jump Through The Hoops For You Visas and Buying Real Estate It’s Not Rocket Science, But....

Mail and Packages...... 22 Repairs...... 34 Mail and Delivery Services

page !2 Shopping...... 34 Transportation...... 41 Discounts The Bus The Ginormous Taxis The Big Ones Shuttle Services The Medium Ones Rental Cars Local Tiendas Specialty Stores Trash Pick Up...... 43 Tuesday Market

The Organic Market The Daily Mercados Utilities...... 44 The Artisans Market Electricity Water (not for drinking) Telephone and Internet Spanish Schools...... 41 Gas Drinking Water

Culture Club

When it comes down to it, doubt delight you and others to practice acceptance when it we’re all just people, and will likely frustrate you. comes to these differences Mexican culture really isn’t that and try it, whatever it is, the different from North American To help increase your Mexican way. You might be culture, right? Wrong. While enjoyment and reduce your pleasantly surprised to find we do share a common frustration, we’ve provided that you like “their” way of humanity, Mexican culture is some tips to help you doing some things, and we actually quite different. Some understand just a few basics of promise in the process you will of these differences will no Mexican culture. We invite you gain a deeper appreciation of the culture.

About Words to Know

Find Spanish help in the Words to Know box in each section of the guide. It includes relevant Spanish terms and their pronunciation. By learning these words and phrases, you’ll be able to be friendly, be polite and ask for what you need.

page !3 Cooking in SMA

Baking at High Altitudes

With an elevation of about 6,000 feet, San of butter is called for, reduce it by 1 Miguel is considered a “high altitude” when it tablespoon. (See also note about butter comes to baking. Not to worry - with a few measurements below). This should prevent adjustments, you can have your cake and eat it, your cookies from spreading too thinly during too. We suggest the following: cooking.

1. For cakes, cookies, quick breads, brownies, 3. If your baked goods are too dry, try reducing etc.: the amount of sugar by 1-2 tablespoons per • reduce baking powder and baking soda cup and increasing liquids slightly, by half. This is the most “universal” rule tablespoon by tablespoon. and should be applied across the board. Yeast amounts 4. If your baked goods are still too can stay the same in dry, increase the oven temperature breads. somewhat (15-25° fahrenheit) and reduce baking time (observation will • add a little extra flour, tell you when items are done). about 1 tablespoon per cup of flour. For repeated baking success, note directly on your recipes what adjustments 2. For cookies: were made, since these adjustments often vary In addition to the above adjustments, reduce from recipe to recipe. Bon appétit! the fat somewhat. For example, if 1/2 a cup

Equivalents

If you are an American, you’ve probably been system, at least for a while. This works fine with using the Imperial system of measurements (vs. bulk items like flour, sugar and spices, which you the metric system, which is discussed more on can easily measure out in your cups and page 24.) Unless you plan to buy all new teaspoons, but requires a little more work when cookbooks, measuring cups, it comes to items that are often measured in spoons, etc. sticks (like butter), or cans (like evaporated milk). when you arrive A few of the more common equivalents are listed in Mexico, it’s below for your convenience. likely that you will continue to cook using the Imperial

page !4 butter 1 tablespoon 15 g 1/2 cup (1 American stick) 113 grams. [A stick of butter in MX is 90-100 grams.] chocolate bars 8 oz. 227 grams 5 oz. 141 grams chocolate chips 2 cups/1 12 oz. package 340 grams cream cheese 8 oz. (U.S. large box) 227 grams. 4 oz. (U.S small box) 113 grams evaporated milk 12 oz. can 340.19 grams. [Cans in MX are 378 grams.] graham cracker crumbs 1/2 cup (10 crackers) about 1 roll (170 grams) of Maria’s cookies, ground into crumbs (see also substitutions below) sweetened condensed milk 14 oz. can 397 grams

Substitutions

Bisquick - This baking mix is increasingly easier how many of those little squares equals, say, 1/2 to find here in San Miguel. Sometimes Mega cup of cajeta. carries it, and the Mini-Mart on the Ancha also carries it. However, if you’re counting your graham crackers - Graham crackers are nearly pennies, you might try making your own. It’s very impossible to find in Mexico. However, you can easy and keeps in the refrigerator or freezer for substitute Maria’s brand cookies for graham months. Go here for a recipe. crackers with very good results. buttermilk - You’ll have to resort to the old cottage cheese - This is another item that Mega “vinegar + regular milk” trick because buttermilk is now frequently carrying. However, if you can’t has still not arrived on the list of American get your hands on a carton, you can substitute imports at any store in San Miguel. ricotta cheese in the same quantities and the result is still pretty delicious. caramels - You won’t find those little squares of individually packed caramel here in Mexico, but sour cream - Purists argue that if you want sour you will find cajeta, the delicious Mexican cream you need to find something called crema equivalent. It comes in plastic bottles of various acidica, but what is called simply crema in the flavors and can be easily purchased at both dairy section tastes like sour cream to me. Do grocery stores and small tiendas. You’ll have to note, however, that crema batir is whipping estimate quantities, as it’s difficult to determine cream.

page !5 Daylight Savings Time

Daylight savings time (DST) is No matter where you are from, observed in Mexico in the if you are living here in San same way that it is observed in Miguel and wondering when most of the United States and you’ll need to change your Canada. The only difference is clocks, the easiest solution is that most* Mexican states to go here http:// change their clocks anywhere www.worldtimezone.com/ from one week to a month daylight.html, where you will before or after the rest of until April 6th in Mexico. Then, find an easy to read North America. For example, in the fall, DST ends in Mexico international chart of DST in the spring of 2014, DST on Oct. 26th and in the US/ dates. begins on March 9th in the Canada it ends on Nov. 2nd. *Those that border the US are the US/Canada and doesn’t begin exception.

Emergencies

just in case someone is calling number because it is from EMERGENCY? on your behalf. here that trained workers coordinate the police, When preparing for an emer- firefighters and emergency gency, keep in mind that medical crews that can and DIAL speed isn’t exactly a forté here should be sent to your in San Miguel. Sometimes the location. As of 2014, the 066 police respond very quickly to service is bilingual. If you dial the report of a crime...and 066 and there is no answer 066 sometimes they don’t. Same (scary, but it has been known with ambulances. As of this to happen), try one of the writing, the Red Cross staff for Police/Pubic security numbers No one likes to think about all of San Miguel includes only below. disaster striking, but you’ll be 11 people. If you are seriously glad you prepared if (knock on ill, it might be faster to simply Note: While we have done wood) anything emergency- call a nearby friend or our best to provide accurate like were to happen. So post neighbor and ask them to get and up-to-date information, it these phone numbers in a you to the hospital. is the user’s responsibility to handy place and perhaps even verify that this information is write out your own address The all purpose emergency current and to familiarize and contact information too, number is 066. In a true themselves with emergency emergency, it’s best to dial this procedures.

page !6 Important Phone Numbers

Police/Public security The police force in San Miguel is small; be proactive and take 152-2890, 152-0911 preventative measures to keep your home and yourself safe.

Red Cross (ambulance) In non-emergency situations, Red Cross administration can be 065, 152-4121, 152-1616 reached at 152-4225 and [email protected]

Clinica Tech 100 152-2233 Clinica Tech 100 is known for attending to emergencies with prompt, kind and professional care.

Dr. W. Ricardo Gordillo Morath Dr. Gordillo is a great M.D., makes house calls and speaks 154-9976 English. Plus he’s an all around nice guy. His office is located at 415-109-5961 emergency cell Hidalgo 28 in Centro.

Dr. Jesús Hererra For dental emergencies, we highly recommend Dr. Herrera, a 122-2881 or 100.0403 wonderful bilingual dentist located at Stirling Dickinson 27-D. For 01-461-219-9810 - emergencies more details, go to CelayaDentalGroup.com.

Electrical Dangers and Power Power outages, especially during and after storms, are fairly Outages common in SMA. To report such an outage, call CFE, the electric 071 or 152-7393 company, at this number. You may also want to report downed lines or other dangerous electrical problems. You will need to be able to speak and understand some Spanish.

Gas leaks If you suspect you have a gas leak, you can call this number and 152-0228 say “Hay una fuga de gas en mi casa”, which means “There’s a gas leak in my house.” They will ask you for your address and perhaps your phone number, so be able to say both in Spanish. You can also call a plumber, who will likely be able to help with gas lines. (Note: this is not the number to call if you need someone to fill up your gas tank.)

Legal Emergencies Contact your consular agent or embassy if you need help in any of the following areas: U.S. Consular Agent Ed Clancy renewing your passport 415-113-8574 emergency cell notarizing a document Canadian Embassy receiving assistance if you have been arrested or 01-800-706-2900 receiving assistance if you are the victim of a violent crime Emergency Centre for Canadians 001-800-514-0129 (from Mexico) See also page 18 for more details.

Taxi If you don’t have a car and need a taxi asap, there are ServiTaxi 152-5993 several taxi companies available, one of which is ServiTaxi. Note, however, that you will generally be charged double when you call a taxi to pick you up at a specific location.

page !7 Words to Know emergency urgencia (er HEN see ah) police policía (po-lee-SEE-ah) firefighter bombero (bom BEH roh) fire! ¡fuego! (foo-EH-go) electricity electricidad (ee leck trees ee DAHD) gas leak fuga de gas (fuga deh gahs) I need a doctor. Necesito un doctor. (nes eh SEE toe oon doctor) It’s very serious. Está muy grave. (es TA moo ee GRAH veh)

CULTURE CLUB TIP #1 Waiting

Wait for it...wait for it...and wait Similarly, just because the sign Fortunately, this mindset can some more. If you look up the says the store opens at 10am also work in your favor. I came word “ahora” in a Spanish/ doesn’t mean the doors are home one day to see my English dictionary, it will be going to open at 10. When you plumber sitting in front of my translated as “now.” What the read these signs, imagine the house, waiting for me to arrive. dictionary doesn’t say is that words mas o menos (more or Did he expect me to be home, “now” is a pretty relative term less) written after each time. not having made an exact to Mexicans, especially those appointment? No. Was he living in SMA, a smaller and irritated? Not at all. much slower town than say, Mexico City. Most everyone will wait patiently for you, so try to If someone says “Voy a show them the same courtesy. empezar a cocinar ahora” (“I’m I suggest that when you are going to start cooking now”) it out and about, carry a book or doesn’t necessarily mean right notepad with you so that you now. It could mean the now can occupy yourself while you that happens in the next hour. wait. Read your Spanish- Or two. Ahora mismo is closer English dictionary. Meditate. to the (right) now that Ameri- What is an American to do?! Contemplate. The line at Mega cans think of, as is ahorita, but Relax. Is it frustrating? Sure, it isn’t going to move any faster neither are really any more can be. Is it life threatening? if you are sighing dramatically precise. Both can mean in a Probably not. You’ll be doing and glaring at the cashier. few minutes or in a little while. yourself a big favor if you start Instead, breathe deeply. Find Sure, you can press people for to think of time as a mas o someone to smile at, and go an exact time, and they might menos kind of thing. home happy. give you one, but that doesn’t mean it’s definitive.

page !8 Food

Disinfecting Your Produce

Before you can eat all of those a water/bleach solution (1 bacterial agent) and it delicious fresh fruits and tablespoon bleach per gallon leaves no smell or vegetables you’ve bought, of water). Another popular aftertaste. you’ll have to wash them with option is to use a “microbicida” some kind of disinfectant. (microbe killer) such as Let your produce soak Some people Microdyn or BacDyn which is for about 10 minutes in soak their made specifically for cleaning a small amount of the produce for produce and can be disinfectant mixed with 1-5 purchased at the grocery water (see instructions minutes in store. It’s active ingredient is on bottle for exact colloidal silver (long measurements), drain, recognized as a natural anti- dry and enjoy.

The Food “Schedule”

Any discussion about eating in you’ll need to head to the Dinner (la cena) at home is San Miguel should definitely tamale stand first thing in the often a light meal, and include a few words about morning if you want to get traditionally included “sweet what particular foods are there before they run out (as I bread” (pan dulce). To get served when. During my first strongly suggest you do). some of that sweet bread for few months here, I wandered yourself, head to a panaderia the streets, fruitlessly (bread store) during the hours searching for the tamale lady of 8-11am and 5-9 pm, and or an open bakery. I finally you’re likely to find it open, realized that I wasn’t looking although many bakeries are for food in all the wrong open in the afternoon as well. places, I was looking during all the wrong hours of the day. And consider yourself warned - going out to dinner with your While the word breakfast As for lunch, school kids eat Mexican friends will feel more (desayuno) in Spanish means lunch at mid-day (taken in their like a midnight snack. Dinner to break the fast, just as it lonchera, or lunchbox), but frequently isn’t scheduled until does in English, and while lots most everyone else eats 9, or even 10 pm. And don’t try of families eat cereal, juice and comida, the main meal of the to get any of those delicious toast at this time, it’s also just day, served around 2 or 3 pm. little tacos on the street before as common to eat a tamale, Families with children often 7pm. - it just aint’ gonna eggs, beans and tortillas or wait until their kids come home happen. even enchiladas as your first from school so that they can meal of the day. That’s why eat their comida together.

page !9 Eating on the Street

Is it safe to eat “street” food? not done any kind of blind experience of the most Well, how adventurous are you tests on this claim. common foods sold on the feeling? How strong is your street. Keep in mind that stomach? How susceptible are In any case, street food is the generally speaking, none of you to intestinal problems? closest thing to Mexican fast these vendors speak English, How hungry are you? In food you will find in San so unless you already speak general, cooked food is safer Miguel and it’s all pretty Spanish, be bold, point a lot, than raw food, although I have delicious. What follows is my and smile widely.

The Tamale Stand

You can recognize tamale There’s same thing), there are also stands by the very tall, also Mexican food cognates, foods cylindrical metal pots which usually which you think you recognize, are loaded with warm tamales. something but really, you don’t. Trust me. Popular tamales flavors are like a giant Chocolate atole is one of soup pot or two, which contain these. You will swear it must “rojo” (red), which are usually atole, a traditional drink made be hot chocolate until you take made with pork, and with chocolate or vanilla a big swig and then you will “verde” (green), which are flavored corn starch and/or want to spit it out. Instead, usually made with chicken. corn flour (masa). Allow me to take a small sip, expecting a Sometimes vendors will have digress momentarily about the very thick, hot drink with “sweet” tamales made with chocolate atole. something like a whiff of pineapple and sweetened chocolate, and eventually you masa (the bread-ish part). I’ve Just as there are Spanish will acquire a taste for it, and never actually eaten a bad cognates (words that sound perhaps even a hankering. tamale, although some are alike in English and Spanish better than others. but don’t necessary mean the

The Gorditas Ladies

like a giant wok. A gordita is the dough and then fill it with kind of like the Mexican your choice of guisado. version of a pita bread sandwich, the “bread” being Another Mexican food cognate made out of a cornmeal-like is the corn on the cob sold on masa and the fillings, or the street. Don’t be expecting guisados, previously cooked sweet, juicy roasted corn - this In the afternoon (and evening) combinations of meat and strain of corn is much starchier you will likely happen upon a vegetables, often housed in and less sweet than other lady cooking gorditas and corn that ubiquitous blue speckled varieties - think tiny baked on the cob (elote) on a large kitchenware. The cook will fry potato bits on a stick. comal that looks something

page !10 The Fruit Stand

It’s hard to times, I don’t even look at that wash, or from little bits that miss the fruit cantaloupe. have detached themselves stand, the from their mother poop seller wielding How do you get typhoid, you deposited in an open field his giant ask? It’s gross, but I will tell somewhere and are now machete, blowing around in that dry air. whacking open juicy So, if you must eat raw food watermelons on the street, don’t do it in and fragrant April and May, the hottest, coconuts. It looks SO driest season of the year! Wait good, doesn’t it? Espe-cially you, because you need to until the rainy season when on those scorching May days, know. It comes from human those microscopic pieces of who can resist a plastic feces, either left over on the poo are no longer wafting container of mixed fruit? I can. hands of that guy at the stand through the air and landing on After getting typhoid three who wiped and then didn’t your melon.

The Ice Cream Stand

as shown in the photo to the right.

Mexican ice cream is less “milky” than traditional North American ice cream, but still delicious in its own right. There is usually a choice of cones What you can eat on those hot and a large variety of flavors. days is ice cream. You will find Take advantage of being in delicious. Queso con fresa vendors all over town, Mexico and try some of the (cheese and straberries) is throughout the year, “refriger- fruit flavors - mango, papaya, something like strawberry ation” supplied via metal lime (limón) and strawberry cheesecake and another containers wrapped in towels, (fresa) are especially favorite.

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page !11 Anatomy of a Taco Stand

When 8 o’clock rolls around and you’re craving a Choices typically include al pastor (the Mexican little something, there is only one place to head – version of the Greek gyro, in which pork is the nearest taco stand! Don’t misunderstand – roasted on a vertical rotisserie and flavored with we’re not talking crunchy, deep-fried folded pineapple), bistek (steak, as you might have shells filled with ground beef and beans sold guessed) and chorizo (a kind of Mexican north of the border. Street tacos are tiny, and sausage). You can also order a gringa (not to be serve as both a little snack as well as, en mass, confused with a Caucasian female), which is a a great meal. quesadilla made with a flour tortilla (the white kind...get it?), cheese, and whatever sort of meat Look for a metal trailer on wheels, a pineapple you choose. Your tacos will be accompanied by hanging on one end and several men standing salsa (hot sauce), verduras (vegetables) such as over a sizzling grill wildly flipping tortillas. Our sliced onion, limes and cilantro. The cilantro is personal favorites are the guy on Insurgentes for sprinkling on top of your filling and the lime is between the library and Hidalgo, and Tacos for squeezing over everything (yum). Prepared Lucas, about halfway up Cinco de Mayo. as such, just one bite will convince you that you have died and gone to taco heaven.

The pineapple, whose juices drip onto the meat cooking below .

The pastor on the spit.

Other meat being cooked and tortillas being heated.

A plastic bag, which is thrown away after each use and The filling, generally ensures that you receive a consisting of some clean plate every time. type of beef or pork.

The cook, who is slicing, dicing and flipping food like a maniac. The soft, tiny corn tortilla. These are often “doubled” to ensure that your taco filling doesn’t leak through.

page !12 In a Restaurant

A few final comments for when you decide to go coat while he’s still eating his apple pie. the less adventurous route and eat at a “regular” restaurant. Go ahead, drink the water. Drink lots As you’re leaving the restaurant, nod to the folks of it, if you want. You don’t even have to ask for who are still eating and say buen provecho or bottled water, although you can. But note, when just provecho. It means “Enjoy your meal.” They you’re done drinking, and eating, you’ll will respond with a simple gracias need to ask for the bill. Simply say to (you should do the same when your waiter “La cuenta, por it’s said to you). It might favor.” Here in Mexico, for seem weird speaking to the waiter to give you the bill strangers like that, but to before you ask would be like Mexicans, it’s simply good handing a dinner guest his manners.

Words to Know

breakfast desayuno (des aye YOU no) bubbly water agua mineralizada (AH gua mean er al ee ZA da) chocolate chip choco chip (CHOE ko CHEEP) corn elote (eh LOE teh) cream crema (CREM ah) dinner cena (SEN ah) enjoy your meal buen provecho (BUEN pro VECH oh) food (in general) comida (ko MEE thah) fried “sandwich” - gordita (gore DEE tah) green verde (VER they) hot drink atole ( ah TOE lay) late afternoon meal comida (ko MEE thah) lime limon (lee MOAN) market mercado (mare CAH tho) red rojo (ROH ho) regular water agua natural (AH gua nah too RAL) strawberry fresa (FRES ah) type of sausage chorizo (cho REE so) (At the Taco Stand) tortilla w/ melted cheese gringa (GREEN gah) steak bistek (bee STEAK) vegetable garnishes verduras (ver DOO rahs) hot sauce salsa (SAL sah)

page !13 Information about SMA

This is a small guide. No doubt you will have other questions and need other information than what is contained here. And you will likely need it in English, at least when you first arrive. I suggest using the following resources.

Realty San Miguel.com

Go to our website at Miguel (and Mexico) to blogs details such as hours and RealtySanMiguel.com, and about real estate and the locations. look under the “Everything San economy. Yes, these web pages are all Miguel” tab in the navigation hosted by our company, Realty bar. There you will find all Coming soon is an event San Miguel. No, you won’t find kinds of resources, from calendar which will list and a lot of self-promotion. Instead, instructions on Getting to San describe all of the major you’ll discover a wealth of Miguel, videos on Moving to festivals, conferences, helpful information about living San Miguel and Living in San holidays, etc. and include in (or just visiting) San Miguel. Miguel, to News About San

page !14 The Civil List, an SMA Yahoo Group

“Civil San Miguel de Allende”, known simply as personal policy on the civil list is – get in and get “The Civil List” among locals, is a Yahoo group out. Do not have posts emailed to you, because that has several thousand members who share you will not know what hit your inbox*. Ask for what they know about San Miguel at any given what you need, reply with effusive thanks when moment. Basic computer skills are required. It’s you get it, and don’t go back unnecessarily great for getting recommendations for doctors, unless you like petty arguments and offenses hair stylists, dog trainers, reiki masters, etc. It’s easily taken. also great for finding out details of cultural events, new restaurant locations and hours, etc. Finally, take advantage of the search feature. It’s Your chances of locating a person you met a box at the top of the page, and allows you to briefly at a party are quite good as well. search past posts and frequently find your answer immediately. Go here to sign up. A word of warning, however. The Civil List is nicknamed the “Snivel List” *To use the list without receiving all the posts in because of the frequently pissy attitude of a your inbox, go to “Manage My Groups” on the relative handful of regular posters. Pity the man Yahoo Groups page. From there, under “mail who asks where he can buy a fly swatter. He will subscription” choose “no email.” To see posts, likely receive half a dozen posts on the moral just go to the Civil San Miguel de Allende page depravity of killing insects. Did he ask? No. Does on the Yahoo Groups site and hit “Messages.” he care? Probably not. For this reason, my

page !15 The Atención

The Atención newspaper, to your home, but it’s worth also includes classified ads, written mostly in English, leaving your house for if you hours and advertisements for comes out every are new to town. Sold at the restaurants, gallery openings, Friday. You library and at various cafes boutique sales, church cannot get a and stores around town, it services, AA meetings, etc. subscription nor covers San Miguel’s current You can see the online version have it delivered happenings of all sorts, and here.

The Juarde

This English language know the name of a place but thing, because by the time directory comes out once a can’t find the phone number. you thought to look under year. You can buy it at “physician” you might have bookstores and even at But do note that there are bled to Mega. It is a phone directory many, many fine businesses death. of (generally speaking) the that are not included. And it gringo community and a local uses those archaic yellow business directory, including pages categories. So if you phone numbers for need a doctor, don’t look government services, under “d”, because you won’t utilities, embassies, etc. It find one. You’ll find a few can come in handy when you listed under “medical emergency” , which is a good

The Phone Book

This phone book, published by come to your house once a comprehensive and lists tons Tel Mex, has a white pages year and offer you the new of businesses that don’t and a yellow pages section, as one. It’s customary to give him necessarily cater to the gringo well as lists of area and your old one and also tip him. community, which often means country codes, directory that services are cheaper, assistance,a map of the city, However, be prepared. The although you will likely have to emergency numbers, long yellow pages of this phone be able to speak Spanish to distance calling info., etc., book are even less intuitive get what you need. It’s worth a much like a “regular” phone than those of the Juarde. That look. book in the U.S., but in said, it is much more Spanish, of course. A guy will

page !16 Leaving The House

Seriously. This is one of the (stationary store) sells house to the Jardin. Go to a best ways to find all sorts of beads...who knew? cafe, or to the patio at the things, from what you were library and you will likely meet originally looking for to what someone new. And every new you didn’t even know you were person you meet will be a treasure trove of information interested in! You will see and insight. stores and businesses that you never noticed, especially if you Along these lines, don’t be head out in the evening. Step afraid to stop a stranger on the inside, and you will discover, street and ask them for for example, that your Meeting people and making directions. Friendliness is neighbor-hood tienda (store) friends in San Miguel is very, something of a San Miguel stocks a large variety of very easy. Walk from your hallmark. candles, or that the papeleria

Words to Know

TheEnglish language newspaper in San Miguel Atención (ah ten see OAN)

TheEnglish language directory in San Miguel Juarde (who are they - get it?)

The main square in Centro El Jardín (el har DEEN)*

*The Jardín is the most popular place in the whole town, so it’s worth learning how to pronounce its name correctly. Please note that it is not “jar” as in peanut butter, and it does not rhyme with “garden”. It is “har” as in “hardly”, and it rhymes with “Nadine”.)

Insurance - Auto If you plan to drive in Mexico the sole discretion of the police sibility for the accident is often there are a couple of insurance officer. On federal highways, assigned to whichever party related issues that you should you probably have a fair shot of appears to have more money, be aware of. being judged impartially, but regardless of nationality. often with local police and in the In most states in Mexico, if you smaller communities (like San If the damages are higher than get into an accident and you Miguel de Allende), even if one your insurance coverage, then are at fault, you are responsible of the parties is obviously at you run the risk of being held in for the damages, and fault is at fault (e.g., s/he was driving jail (yikes!) until your family under the influence), respon-

page !17 Unless spending time in a electrical installations. These Mexican jail is your idea of fun damages were estimated at and adventure, it’s really not 2.5 million pesos, while his worth the risk to be uninsured, insurance was only for 1 or even under-insured, million. He was held in jail for especially considering that 17 days until his family automobile insurance in deposited the balance. Mexico is generally about half of what it would be in the U.S. Automobile insurance can be purchased at the border or deposits the balance with the I know of one foreigner who online. For short trips, policies court. Therefore, we strongly was at fault in an accident bought at the border are fine, suggest that you purchase where someone was killed. He but if you plan on living and insurance substantially above did not have insurance or the driving in Mexico for any the minimum of $100,000 USD means to pay the damages length of time, we suggest (or $1,000,000 pesos) that and was sentenced to 18 shopping around online to get many insurance agents will months in jail. In another case, the best long term policy. offer you. $300,000 USD will I know of someone who had a probably only cost you $100 car accident and did substan- more per year, and $500,000, tial damage to street-side about $150 more.

Legal Matters

For American Citizens

When you need help with office hours you can call the your passport quickly, you can matters such as renewing your agency at 152-2357. apply for an emergency passport, notarizing a passport in our office and we document, and receiving Here’s what Ed Clancy says will get it in 7-8 days. assistance if you have been about renewing a passport: arrested or are the victim of a You can renew your U.S. Alternatively, you can go to the violent crime, you’ll want to go passport in my office in San American Embassy in Mexico see Edward Clancy, the US Miguel de Allende. There is no City and receive one the same Consular Agent in San Miguel appointment required to renew day. de Allende. an adult's passport. It normally takes 6 weeks for your new The American Embassy in The U.S. Consular agency is passport to arrive in our office, Mexico City deals with matters located in the La Luciernaga but if you need it faster, we such as births, deaths and Mall. It’s open Monday - can ask that it be rushed. arrests of American citizens, Thursday from 9-1 and Fridays There is no expedited service violent crimes against by appointment only. During in Mexico, even at the Americans and passport Embassy. If you must have issuance and renewal.

page !18 Here’s what the American If you are an American citizen (From Mexico) Embassy web page says: with an after hours emergency, 01-55-5080-2000, During business hours, U.S. please call the Embassy dial 0 for an citizens in distress requiring switchboard at : operator immediate assistance should (From the U.S.) and ask to call the Embassy at 52-55-5080-2000, dial 0 for an speak to the 01-52-55-5080-2000 , operator Duty Officer. ext. 4440.

For Canadian Citizens

To reach the Canadian According to the Canadian Toll-free from Mexico: Embassy in DF (Mexico City), Embassy Website, for After- 001-800-514-0129 follow the link below: Hours Emergencies, The Shall this number fail to work, Canadian Embassy Emergency Operations Centre you can dial the Embassy toll For emergency consular of Foreign Affairs and free number:01-800-706-2900. assistance, you may dial one International Trade Canada Your call will be rerouted to of the following numbers: operates 24 hours a day, Ottawa. seven days a week. An From Canada: Call collect : (613) 996-8885 experienced officer is always 011-52 + 55+ 5724.7900 E-mail: available to respond to [email protected] From Mexico emergency calls. 01 + 55 + 5724.7900 TTY: (613) 944-1310

The Immigration Office and Visas

Visa-getting can be a various types of visas as of challenging endeavor. While this writing. It bears repeating, there are several types of however, to verify that these visas available for non- rules and procedures are valid Mexican citizens, it should be at the time you read this. understood that types of visas seem to change every few Tourist Visa - Although it has Visa_policy_of_Mexico, you years and the process to changed names a couple of do not need to obtain a visa obtain them even more often. times in the past 10 years, a before arriving in Mexico. In addition, rules seem to vary tourist visa is very easy to Instead, when you enter from one Mexican Consulate obtain. If you are a citizen of Mexico, you will be issued a to another, so it may be helpful the US, Canada, the U.K., the tourist visa as long as you to check for updates at the EU or any of the 65 countries have a valid passport, and if consulate nearest you. What listed here http:// you are flying, a return ticket. follows is a description of the en.wikipedia.org/wiki/

page !19 Most tourist visas are issued The Temporary Resident visa eventually apply for for up to 180 days, but this allows for multiple entries and citizenship, there are sometimes varies by port of exits with no travel restrictions. limitations on entry. If you are not a citizen of how long you one of the countries listed in Permanent Resident can be outside the link above, you can find (Residente Permanente) - The of Mexico more info here: http:// conventional wisdom in the within the five mexico.visahq.com/ past has been that this visa years prior to generally requires having a application. Temporary Resident temporary resident visa for a (Residente Temporal) - There number of years before you If you have any visa issues are many categories of can apply. However, there is once you are in San Miguel, resident visas, including those nothing in the law that states you will need to go to the giving permission to work or this and we know of more than immigration office, also known own a business and those that one visa facilitator who as INM, or Instituto Nacional do not (lucritivo and no- successfully takes clients de Migración, located on lucritivo). The most common directly to the Resident Calzada de la Estación, type of resident visa is based Permanente status. 152-2542. Most employees on retirement, which requires don’t speak English, so it’s either proof of monthly cash Permanent Resident cards do wise to take an interpreter with flow or investments sufficient not expire and also allow you you if you are not relatively to support yourself while living to earn income, provided that fluent. in Mexico. It is important to you notify Immigration within note that you can no longer 30 days of any change in If you would like someone to obtain a resident visa while in economic activity. They also help you through the process, Mexico. The process must allow for multiple entries and email us and we will connect begin in your home country, exits with no travel restrictions. you with a bilingual visa but is a relatively painless one. However, if you intend to facilitator.

Visas and Buying Real Estate For real estate buyers, it is not on capital gains if you sell your permanent residents. If you necessary to have a resident primary residence. are concerned about potential visa before you purchase a taxable gains on selling a property. In fact, you can own Although there are often other property, contact one of the a property in Mexico for many tax strategies that can be used agents in our office. They are years with only a tourist visa. to minimize or avoid a capital generally up to date with gains tax without the current trends and can set up However, the advantage to permanent residency status, it a consultation with a notario* having a resident visa once may be wise to move toward if necessary. you own a home in Mexico is obtaining permanent that permanent resident residency, since almost all of *Here in Mexico, a notario is a (Residente Permanente) the tax changes since 2004 special attorney authorized to status will allow you to claim have been designed to close real estate transactions. the homestead tax exemption eliminate the tax exemption loopholes in the law for non-

page !20 CULTURE CLUB TIP #2 The Noise San Miguel is a town in which pretty darn loud. Have you babies in, turn over and go daily events are communi- ever noticed that most San back to sleep. This is by far cated through sound - that Miguelenses don’t seem to the cheaper, easier option. high pitched whistle of the mind these noises? But what if knife sharpener, the chant of YOU mind them? What if they the peanut seller, the loud are driving you crazy, in fact? Option #2 clanging which announces the You have two choices, since it trash truck, and the joven is highly unlikely that (young man) yelling complaining is going to change “Santorini!” to let you know the anything. truck with water bottles is on your street. Now throw into the mix near nightly fireworks Option #1 (which often begin at dawn) Buy yourself a and the dogs that bark pair of earplugs. incessantly, and things can get Store them within Live outside of Centro. Here’s easy reach of your a rule of thumb: the farther bed. Better yet, buy two, so away from Centro your home that when you lose one is located, the quieter the somewhere in your nightstand, neighborhood will be. If you’re you will have another. Every really serious about time you are trying to sleep tranquilidad, move to the and the church bells are campo, or countryside. Lots of ringing a little too early for your people live there for this very preference, don’t start to reason and love it. (Not to wonder why! You will only get mention the beautiful views.) aggravated. Simply stuff those

Clients Talk About... Edgar Cancino, Agent We cannot say enough good things about Edgar. He was very helpful from start to finish, very profes- sional and polite every step of the way. LT & Weeda M.

page !21 Mail and Packages

When you want to send and/or receive mail and packages, you have a few different options. By the time you add on handling fees and duty, none of these options are cheap, but all of them are cheaper than going to the U.S.

Mail & Delivery Services

For a monthly or yearly fee, Check with each company for businesses such as Solutions exact rates and what they can/ will bring your mail and cannot bring in. These packages from the U.S. and companies also often provide deliver them it into your local Fed Ex, UPS and DHL service mail box. They will also take (although, sadly, you won’t find mail and packages into the any brawny guys in brown U.S. and mail them for you. shirts).

Shipping Services There are a few companies in Another option is using a town who deal more in shipping service that maintains packages than regular mail. a U.S. address. No yearly or For example, La Unión in monthly fee is required, and Centro, (152 5694) is one you can order almost anything example, and they provide and have it delivered to their Lavinia’s Framing (154-5344) both FedEx and DHL service. U.S. address, and then they is one such example. will bring it in to Mexico.

MexPost and the “Regular” Post Office

Located a few doors down from As for the “regular” post office, I US to be delivered by the the “regular” post office on used it once to ship a package. “regular” post. They never Correo (which means mail), Mex They allowed me to negotiate arrived. Post is good for packages that down (by half!) the price to ship other services won’t take, like a homemade diorama my then It’s also worth noting that the liquid medical samples, and for 9-year-old daughter wanted to local utility companies do not use packages sent within Mexico. send to her friend in the U.S. It the regular post office but have Items can take up to 2 weeks to arrived without incident. Hoping their employees walking the arrive, though, so plan ahead. to build on that success, I streets to deliver bills. Just ordered some beads from the sayin’.

page !22 Medical Care If your illness is URGENT, get I’ve heard many good things If you prefer more natural yourself to Clínica Tec 100, the about the emergency care at oriented doctors and hospital formerly known as de la Fe and was very pleased practitioners, you’ve come to Hospital De La Fe, located on with the care my family the right town. San Miguel is Salida a Dolores, (aka the received as well. chock-full of naturopaths, Libremiento) headed toward homeopathic doctors, Dolores. Any taxi driver will There are other hospitals in chiropractors, osteopaths, know where it is. town, but if you are new to massage therapists, San Miguel, Clínica Tec is your nutritionists, herbalogists, etc. best option. You can check out Again, the Civil List is your their website at http:// best bet for local hospitaltec100.com/ recommendations. sanmiguel/ Besides the huge savings you will enjoy on your medical If your medical need is not so care, another advantage of urgent, ask around for a good living here in Mexico is that doctor or dentist and call to you don’t need a doctor’s make an appointment. (For order to get a lab test. So, for help finding recommendations, They are open 24/7, have example, if you suspect that see the Civil List on page 15 in many doctors on staff who you have parasites (more the “Information” section of speak English, and it’s likely common than you might this Guide.) Sometimes you that you will be seen imagine),you can simply go to will be referred to a specialist immediately. I’ve been there one of the medical labs in in Celaya or Queretaro, but twice for emergencies and we town and ask them for a test. there are also many fine were ushered into a treatment physicians here in San Miguel. room as soon as we arrived.

Words to Know

The hospital located on the main highway Clínica Tec 100 (CLEAN ee kah TEK CIEN) hospital hospital (ohs pee TAL) the (main) highway el libramiento (el lee brah MIEN toh) emergency urgencia (ur HEN see ah)

page !23 The Metric System

Mexico uses the metric system of weights and measures (as opposed to If you’re driving, you’ll need to think in the Imperial system, which is what terms of kilometers per hour (KMH) rather Americans use). If you are not used to than miles per hour (MPH) To convert KM to the metric system, it might seem intimidating at MPH, simply multiply by .6. So, when you see a first, with all of those m’s and l’s, but if you sign saying you’ve got 200 KM before you arrive spend a little time learning it, you’ll realize that at the beach, multiply 200 x .6, and you’ll know it’s quite systematic and straight forward. you’ve got 120 miles to go. Or when you see that the speed limit is 100KM, multiply by .6 to It seems everything in Mexico is measured in get 60 miles per hour. meters – anything long and skinny, like rope or ribbon, fabric, distance (“it’s about 5 meters And finally, please note that the ≈ symbol in the down the street”) , height (“She’s very tall – conversions below means approximately. almost two meters.”), and length (“The table is However, if you’re the type who memorized pi about 1 ½ meters long). It’s helpful to remember eight digits out, go here for an easy to use that a meter is just a little longer than one yard. converter that will give you exact measurements.

Liters are also a very common measurement. The tip here is to think of the size of a 2-liter bottle of soda as a reference.

Conversions

60 kmh = 37MPH 4 liters ≈ 1 gallon 5 mL = 1 teaspoon 90 kmh = 56 MPH 1 hectare ≈ 2.5 acres 15 mL = 1 tablespoon 110 kmh = 68MPH 1 sq. meter ≈ 11 sq. ft. 240 mL = 1 cup (8 oz.) 1 kilo ≈ 2.2 pounds 1 kilometer ≈ 0.6 mile 27 Celsius = 80º Fahrenheit 1 metro ≈ 39 inches 5 centimeters ≈ 2 inches

Words to Know

centimeter centímetro (sen TEE meh troh) kilo kilo (KEE loh) kilometer kilómetro (kee LOH meh troh) meters metros (MEH trohs) square meter metro cuadrado (MEH troh qua DRA tho)

page !24 Money

Traveler's Checks and Cash

Because of the Foreign houses who will take travelers Credit cards and pesos (cash) Account Tax Compliance Act checks, personal checks or are still widely accepted. (FACTA), a US law that has even US dollars (cash) is Pesos can be easily obtained global implications, the way dwindling fast, since the rules from one of the many ATM that financial transactions are governing whether they can machines using a credit or handled in San Miguel has deposit or convert the money debit card. Although you may changed greatly since 2013. easily are still in flux. pay with US dollars in some of San Miguel’s hotels, Although there are exceptions, restaurants and stores, the as of this writing the number of exchange rate they will give restaurants, hotels, you is less than favorable. businesses and exchange

ATM Fees and Precautions

When in San Miguel, you’re for using your ATM card in You may also want to ask going to need a lot of pesos Mexico. Some US and them how the exchange rate is because many restaurants Canadian banks have calculated,as this can vary and stores do not take credit cooperating agreements with substantially from bank to cards. To get pesos, most specific Mexican banks, so as bank. people rely on ATM machines. long as you withdraw your However, you’ll want to be money at the cooperating Unfortunately, like many other aware of bank, your hometown bank international tourist destina- associated fees will charge you a lesser fee or tions, San Miguel de Allende and our none at all. occasionally attracts various suggested types of scam artists, including precautions. However, if the banks you use those who will attempt to clone don't have agreements with your credit and/or ATM cards. Before you come Mexican banks, you’ll want to to San Miguel, determine your bank’s fees These thieves will insert a very check with your before you come. Banks may thin card reader, invisible to bank(s) to make sure you charge anywhere from 1% to the untrained eye, into an ATM know what you will be charged 3% on each transaction. machine to capture the data

page !25 off of every card that is money from one to the other. make transfers; I just can’t do subsequently inserted and use After hearing of others having it with my debit card any more. this data either locally or even their cards cloned, I spoke to internationally. Although most the fraud manager at my bank, 2. Keep A Low Card Balance credit card companies and who suggested that I Keep the balance on your banks do not hold the disconnect the accounts. He debit card relatively low, and cardholder liable, it can be a explained that it is not when necessary, transfer huge hassle to clear this up, uncommon for thieves to gain money online. This way, if your especially if a bank account is access to someone’s primary card does get cloned, at least emptied. You can save debit account with a PIN, the thieves are only going to yourself a lot of trouble by transfer all of that person’s get a few hundred dollars. taking some simple savings and investments into precautions. that primary account and then drain it. Don’t let this happen 3. Go Inside The Branch 1. Disconnect Your Accounts to you! Although it is not unheard of for an ATM machine inside a There was a time when I had bank branch to be cloning several accounts at the same With my bank, it was fairly cards, it is a lot less common. bank that were all connected. easy to disconnect my Thus, we recommend using By using my ATM card I could accounts. Now, when I log into one of these ATM machines see the balance of each of the my account online I can still rather than one that is outside various accounts and transfer see all of the accounts and and as such, less secure.

Exchange Houses vs. Banks

At this point, it will be helpful exchange houses can offer $12,150 pesos. The exchange for you to understand the you better rates on interna- house tends to work on a difference between banks and tional transactions like much smaller margin and exchange houses. Although changing money. would probably give you 12.35 today most of the exchange pesos to the dollar, or $12,350 houses are also banks, the pesos. (About US $16 more). benefits of using an exchange This may not be a huge deal if houses as a foreigner can be you are in San Miguel for a substantial. short time, but if you were purchasing a million dollar For example, if you went to a In very general terms, the home, the difference between bank to change $1,000 USD, primary difference between the the two rates above would and the exchange rate was two is that banks tend to focus translate into US$16,000, a 12.50 pesos to the dollar, the on national transactions, and savings to which few would bank would probably give you exchange houses international turn their nose up. a rate somewhere around transactions. For this reason, 12.15 pesos to the dollar, or

page !26 Long Term Banking

If you are planning on living in As the industry responds to San Miguel for a while and will FACTA, the option of chang- need to be exchanging money ing personal checks into pesos on a regular basis, you will continues to be uncertain. want to set up an account at However, it is fairly certain that one of the exchange houses. these exchange houses will Although either exchange continue to provide some kind house listed below can help of exchange service. Although there are checking you set up this type of and investment accounts account, we personally think available, the two main By using this type of account the service that Josefa at CI exchange houses will also you are avoiding the risk Banco provides is superior. allow you to open an account associated with using an ATM, solely for receiving pesos from saving the conversion fees 1. CI Banco your US, Canadian or foreign that your home town bank will Juárez No. 1, Esquina de San bank account. This isn't an charge, and receiving the best Francisco, Centro account that has money in it, exchange rate possible. but rather a way of document- 415/154 -7348, 152 -5526 y 154 -8665 ing who you are and providing Generally you can open a a way for you to cheaply check cashing account with a access your foreign money. tourist visa, a utility bill from 2. INTERCAM the home you are living in, and San Francisco 4, Centro, your passport. 415/154 6676

Clients Talk About... Gloria Farias, Agent I just wish to express my satisfac- tion with the service of Realty San Miguel on the sale of my home.... Within 3 weeks of the listing of my house by Gloria Farias, one of the agents, there was a firm offer. Carol C.

page !27 Out and About

Greetings and Exclamations

It’s customary to greet people greeting as though tomorrow If you haven’t already learned as you pass them in the street, will never come, and you will ¡perdón! (sorry!), do so now. If enter and exit a store, and be amazed when even the you are a woman, you can most other initial face to face grumpiest of old ladies and throw a little “Aye!” in front of encounters. The most “scary” groups of young men it. Mumble it to yourself common greetings are: greet you in return. repeatedly until it rolls off your tongue. This is what you say Hola, buenos días when you accidentally bump into someone on the street, (Hi, good morning) step on their foot, knock their purse about, etc. This is the Hola, buenas tardes polite and appropriate way to (Hi, good afternoon) respond. “Aren’t you supposed to say lo siento?” you might be Hola, buenas noches wondering? NO. Don’t do it. “Lo siento” is reserved for (Hi, good evening) much more dire circum- stances, e.g., you are telling To respond to this greeting, your neighbor you just ran choose either the Hola or the over her dog. buenos/nas phrase. Use this

Gestures

you are getting flipped off every time you do something nice. You aren’t. You are getting thanked.

Another common gesture is made by raising your hand to How about when someone lets about chest level and bending you “in” in traffic? Or they stop your index finger up and down. their car so that you can cross This means “yes” and is the street. You raise the back especially useful when you index finger back and forth, as of your hand to them (about have your mouth full but want though it is a tiny windshield face level) and nod while you to agree with what someone wiper. This means “no”, as you say gracias. Until you get used else is saying. Its sister probably guessed. to this gesture, you will swear gesture is made by waving the

page !28 The Facilities

And finally, in someone’s home or there is paper (not to mention other public a sign directing you otherwise, unmentionables) down the restroom throw your toilet paper in the toilet. When you forget (and etiquette trash can or wicker basket next you will) let that tell tale wad of (sorry). to the toilet. It might seem floating toilet paper that Actually, just gross but plumbing here in refuses to be flushed serve as toilet paper San Miguel is such that you your punishment reminder. etiquette. are quite likely to gum up the Unless you are works if you flush your toilet

Words to Know hi, hello hola (OH lah) good morning buenos días (BUEN ohs DEE ahs) good afternoon buenas tardes (BUEN ahs TAR thes) good evening buenas noches (BUEN ahs NO chess) please por favor (por fah VOR) sorry! ¡perdón! (pear DOAN) thank you gracias (GRAH see ahs)

CULTURE CLUB TIP #3 Change (the $ kind)

Don’t expect anyone working you will become convinced in a store to have change. that you must be the stupidest They might. They might not. A gringo that has ever walked lot of times they can get it for the cobblestones of San you. But be prepared, you’ll Miguel. Eventually, though, have to give them that $500 whoever walked away with peso bill first. They will walk your $500 pesos will come away with it. Even at the back with your change, and Tuesday Market. Especially at your faith in humankind, and that always has change. Go the Tuesday Market!. You will Mexicans in particular, will be there, buy a bottle of water or wonder if you are the biggest restored. This will happen over some gum and ask the sucker in the world. You will and over again. Get used to it. cashier, “Tendrán cambio de glance over your shoulder to quinientos pesos?” (“Would see if you can catch anyone The most salvationary you have change for $500 laughing at you. As you wait, exception to this rule is Oxxo. pesos?) Most often they will and wait, and wait some more, Oxxo is one of the few stores answer yes.

page !29 Phone Calls

You wouldn’t think you’d need a spreadsheet to 2 or 3 digits, and basic phone numbers figure out how to make a phone call, but it does can be 7 or 8 digits. Before you despair, take a little know how, depending on who you’re use the following chart to guide you calling and from where. One detail (among through whatever calls you’ll be others) that makes things a little more making. complicated is that in Mexico, area codes can be

Calling From San Miguel de Allende

To SMA To SMA To Outside SMA/ To Outside SMA/ To Outside MX To Outside MX Land Line Cell Phone Within MX Land Line Within MX Cell Land Line Cell Phone Phone

From SMA 7 digit number 044+415+ 01 +3 digit area code 045 + 2 or 3 digit international US & Canada Landline (e.g., 152-5322) 7 digit + 7 digit number area code + 7 or 8 code 001+area 001+area code number Exceptions: digit number code+7 digit + 7 digit number To Mexico number* 01 + 55 + 8 digit number To Guadalajara 01+ 33 + 8 digit number To Monterrey 01+ 81 + 8 digit number

From SMA 7 digit number 415 + 7 digit 01 + area code + 7 or area code + 7 or 8 international US & Canada Cell Phone** number 8 digit number digit number code 001+area 001 + area code code+7 digit + 7 digit number number

* Some countries require additional numbers. ** Verify with your local cell phone provider.

Calling to San Miguel de Allende or Other Parts of Mexico from the US or Canada

To SMA Land Line To SMA Cell Phone To Outside SMA/Within To Outside SMA/Within MX Land Line MX Cell Phone

From US or Canada 011+52 (MX country 011+52+1+415+7 digit 011+52+ 2 or 3 digit 011 + 52+1 + 2 or 3 land line code) + 415 (SMA area number area code + 7 or 8 digit digit area code + 7 or 8 code) + 7 digit number number digit number

page !30 Real Estate

You’ve probably already noticed exactly unbiased. However, that this guide is being brought we’ve kept the shameless to you by Realty San Miguel, so promotion to a minimum and our carefully hired and trained our this section on real estate is not goal here is to provide the San agents; we believe you won’t find Miguel newcomer with a starting a better team. Take a look at our point for buying real estate in this many testimonials and referrals lovely town. from past clients and you’ll see why our motto is, “We could brag Since our inception in 2006, we about our service and results… have not only grown to be one of but we’ll let our clients do it for the largest agencies in San us.” Miguel, but we have also

We Welcome the Curious Many of our clients become want to buy a home in San curious about buying real Miguel, you will probably find it estate while here on vacation, helpful to take a tour with one having succumbed to the of our agents. “magic” of San Miguel. This curiosity often leads to The tour will generally include subsequent trips and more viewing two to three properties serious consideration, until within your price range so that finally a decision is made to what stage of the process you you have an idea of what San purchase a home. are in. Miguel homes are like, and so that you can get a feel for the If you are just beginning to various colonias (neighbor- consider purchasing a home in hoods) available. By spending San Miguel, you might find it some time on a tour, both you helpful to have a brief meeting and your agent can focus your with one of our agents to get future efforts on the colonias your questions answered, that are the most desirable to As much as we appreciate learn about the most important you and eliminate the ones vacationing clients who are aspects of the purchasing that are not. hesitant to engage us because process, and find out how they don’t want to “waste owning a home in Mexico anyone’s time,” we believe you differs from owning a home in Of course, if you are already will find it helpful to meet with the US or Canada. As you sure that you would like to one of our agents no matter become more sure that you purchase a property in San Miguel, our agents are ready

page !31 Know What You Want to jump into action to help you and want. Once you have find the perfect home. We submitted the questionnaire, have a very helpful tool on our we will connect you with an website called Perfect World appropriate agent. Search which will guide you in thinking beyond a home’s Here are some of the basic characteristics, such as questions you can expect number of bedrooms and while completing the Perfect • Do you have specific bathrooms, and help you World Search: requirements for pets?

• Do you want walking • Is it important for you to have distance to Centro, or would a single level house, or are you rather get more house for you fine with stairs? the same money by living a little further out? • How do you entertain? Do

you normally only have one • Do you need an office or a or two people over at a time. studio? or do you tend to have large determine more specifically parties? • How often will you have out what other features you need of town guests?

We Jump Through The Hoops For You

Once you are ready to move needs can be posted and suit your needs, whether they toward a purchase, let one of potential properties submitted are our listings or those of our agents do the hard work directly to the agent, and the another agency. for you. We will use all of our “MLS”. MLS stands for the connections to help you find Multiple Listing Service, which the home best suited to your is standard in the U.S. and needs and desires. These Canada and makes all listings connections include but are easily accessible to every not limited to: the local real AMPI member. estate association called “AMPI” (Asociación Mexicana Through all of these avenues de Profesionales Inmobili- and the broad knowledge our arios), of which we are active agents have of what is members. AMPI provides available on the market, we weekly network meetings, an will work hard to present to email group where client you the best properties that

page !32 It’s Not Rocket Science, But….

Although the vast majority of Miguel is not rocket science, it action puzzle and putting them real estate transactions are is almost always a course that together in a way that best completed smoothly, it isn’t needs to be navigated with a serves our clients. What’s infrequent to encounter knowledgeable agent working more, they are taught to complications from a wide on your behalf. anticipate and address any range of sources, including but potential issues before they not limited to: international become problematic. In the wire transfers and currency event that particularly unusual exchange, negotiations of the or difficult circumstances do price recorded on the deed, arise, we have a strong the ever changing nature of management team providing Mexican tax laws, and the support, including the more manner in which the attorneys senior members of our (notarios) who are authorized agency, as well as our own to close real estate accountant and lawyer. transactions vary in their interpretation of those laws. Ask around about our There are also the matters of reputation, and we believe you satisfying money laundering will find that we are known for laws without raising red flags our honesty and forthright- and managing third party ness. We appreciate the escrow accounts. opportunity to meet you and The agents at Realty San earn your business! Although purchasing and Miguel are skilled at looking at selling real estate in San all the pieces of the trans-

We Also Have Vacation Rentals!

If you are looking for a vacation rental, we have a wide selec-tion in a range of prices. Just look for vacation rentals in the navigation bar of our site, RealtySanMiguel.com.

page !33 Repairs

There are several “all are generally young, quiet For appliances purpose” types of guys around guys who are something like you can call town. Some work alone, and apprentices and are often left Margarito Galván some have a crew and can fix behind at your house while the at 415.154.4028 or everything from a stopped up “expert” goes to buy a part. 044.415.153.5274. He has drain to a broken table leg. You can trust them. They are repaired our washing machine prime examples of patient numerous times over the One such “one stop repair” waiters. Learn from them. years. He also knows air and construction conditioning units, and crew is run by For car repair, Victor Espinosa probably kitchen appliances Norberto Godinez is competent, reliable and as well. (415) 114-0304 speaks English. He can be with Miguel reached at 185-2055 and Of course, there are many Godinez (415) 415-151-8235. His shop is other individuals and 114-9112 and located off the Libremiento at companies you might want to Andrés Godinez (415) the entrance to the neighbor- try. If you can’t find who you’re 109-7047. Norberto has a hood Las Brisas. looking for, check the Civil crew of experienced guys who List. (See the Information can fix almost anything. You Another good car repair option section on page 14 for more can read more about is Bridgestone on the Salida a details.) Norberto’s company here. Celaya going toward Mega. They usually bring a helper or Their English is minimal but two, as is customary. These their prices are great.

Shopping

The rule about shopping in necessarily stocked regularly ordinary grocery shopping into San Miguel is this: If you see here, so you can’t count on an exciting treasure hunting something you like, buy it. If something to be in stock today expedition in which riches are you see something you just because it was there regularly found. REALLY like, buy more than yesterday, two weeks ago, or one. Popular items are not two months ago. This can turn

Discounts

A great source of reliable discounts is the San restaurants in San Miguel. 70 other businesses Miguel V.I.P. Club. Purchase a VIP Club Card and services also offer steep discounts to card and receive discounts ranging from 10% to 20% holders. Unlimited use. For more information go off food and drink for your party of four at over 50 here.

page !34 The Ginormous

If you’re willing to make the Celaya or Queretaro. While Queretaro are both about a trek and large quantities you’re there, you can also visit 45-minute drive from San appeal to you, you might want Home Depot, as well as Miguel. to visit Costco, either in several malls. Celaya and

The “Big” Ones

Currently there are three catsup – with salsa and Secondly, checking out tends “major” groceries stores in tomato sauce. to be slow. Cashiers frequently town: Mega, located at the eggs – in the produce section don’t have correct change, for “Pipila Glorieta (the statue of mustard – with salad some reason the teens who the guy with the big stone on dressings, mayonnaise and bag your groceries frequently his back) on Salida a Celaya, vinegar. do not have enough bags, and Bodega Aurrera, located near using a credit card requires a powdered sugar – with the the bridge and glorieta as you slow verification process. So produce or baking ingred- are heading toward the train please, be patient. And keep ients. station, on Calzada de la in mind that those teens are Estación, and Soriana, located puff pastry - Available in the not paid by the store, but rely at the Luciernaga Mall refrigerator in the bakery on your tips. (sometimes known as section at Mega. Liverpool because of the raisins, dates, etc. – wrapped Liverpool department store in plastic in the there). Mega and Bodega produce section, usually, Aurrea are both something like not usually boxed. small “super” stores,” in that sugar – white and brown they have household items sugar are generally found and appliances, a pharmacy, either in the produce clothing, and grocery items all section or with other baking under one roof. Soriana is a ingredients, like flour. Third, the people who work in “regular” grocery store but Brown sugar is often not in the parking lot are not paid by does carry some cookware stock. the store either. While at times small appliances, and includes they might seem overly a small pharmacy. “helpful”, try to remember that they are all just trying to make Grocery shopping in Mexico is a living, and will not hurt you. a little different than what you They will offer to help you with might be used to. First of all, your groceries, wash your car, certain items are not stocked and direct you out of your where you might expect them parking space, whether you to be, as indicated in the list need it or not. You will hear below: them say “sale, sale”, which

page !35 comes from the verb “salir” Finally, if you have a car full of and in this case means “go valuables, take advantage of ahead, go ahead”. You don’t the fact that these attendants need to use them, but if you want to earn some money by do, it’s polite to tip them. asking them to watch your car (“Cuida mi carro, por favor”) Then, when you return to find your car (and your stuff) safe and sound, tip them. (Some people even tip a small Celaya. I thought to myself, amount up front.) “oh, they must not have known about tipping the attendants.” I remember reading on the It’s a small price to pay for not Civil List about some gringos getting your stuff stolen, and who got their stuff stolen from like it or not, this is how it’s the parking lot of Costco in done here in Mexico.

The “Medium” Ones Espinos, (located where the Bonanza, located on Mesones items, and has an impressive Ancha splits near Centro) has (across the street from the bulk section that includes a small selection of grocery, parking garage), carries a wide spices, flours, seeds, and hard produce, and cooking items variety of imported and ethnic to find items like gluten (for like baking pans, spatulas, ice baking bread) and dried fruit. cream scoops, etc. They They also carry imported occasionally carry natural food household products like oven products and specialty foods, cleaner, spray starch and so it’s worth it to keep an eye fabric softening sheets. on their inventory. Bonanza is also a great place to get all kinds of candles.

Local Tiendas

Tienda simply means store in cheese), eggs and produce is Spanish. Most neighborhoods often very small, you’ll find in San Miguel have a tienda or these stores come in handy. two on every block. Although Buying there is also a great their selection of canned way to get to know your foods, household items, some neighbors. cold foods (like milk and

page !36 Specialty Stores

sausages, etc. A few notable type foods. (See also the ones are La Cava, located on Organic Market section Zacateros, and Luna del below). Queso, located on Salida a Celaya near the new For natural products like convention center. Luna del homeopathic remedies, herbs, Queso also carries many vitamins and supplements, , imported specialty items used While it might seem that the check out Centro Naturista on in international cuisine. “safest” place to buy meat is at Ancha de San Antonio 75, La the grocery store, with all of its Victoriana at Hernández nice packaging, this isn’t Macias 72, and Moonrise necessarily the case. In fact, Health at Organos 29 in your local specialty store often Centro (which also carries a lot carries the freshest meat in of imported items). town. That’s why you’d better get there by noon, before they run out! While this might seem like a nuisance at first, rest If it’s natural foods you’re after, assured that this means check out Natura, located on inventory is moving fast, and the Ancha across from the your meat is more likely to be Instituto, and Via Organica, in very fresh. Colonia Guadalupe. These stores carry local and imported There are specialty stores, or natural foods, both fresh and Finally, for those moments of “______rias”, for all kinds of packaged, including gluten intense grocery home- food, and they’re all over town. free items, goat yogurt and sickness, the “Mini Market”, Take a walk and see how cheese, and prepared deli- located next door to Longhorn many you can spot. You’ll see Steak House on the Ancha is carnicerías, (meat) pollerías the place to go. It’s a small (chicken), panaderías (bread store that carries only and pastries), tortillerías American imports, and you will (tortillas), pastelerias (cakes) feel a pang of nostalgia as and fruterías (fruits and you stare at the Mug root vegetables). beer, Newman’s Own products, Butterfingers and There are also deli’s around that familiar red can of Boston which carry cheeses, Baked Beans.

page !37 Tuesday Market

The most famous specialty Of course, you can also go market is called the “Tuesday there as a “serious” shopper, Market”, known in Spanish as picking up whatever fresh el tianguis, or here in San produce, fish and chicken that Miguel as la placita (and not you’ll need for the week. Open the “mercado de martes”, a every Tuesday (duh), most common mistake). vendors are set up by 9:30 and stay open until around 3:30, at new and used clothing, knick which time they start packing knacks, pets, flowers, plants, up. craft and sewing notions, produce and grocery staples, and a large “food court” where A popular tourist destination, you will be serenaded by all it’s a cross between a flea manner of musicians. You can market and a super store and easily stay for hours, shopping, should not be missed. Known gawking, and eating your way for its giant selection of through the Tuesday Market. practically everything, it includes, but is not limited to:

The Organic Market

features fresh, locally grown organic produce.

Another fun place to shop is buy other products here like the Saturday Organic Market, plants, natural skin care items located at the entrance to the With its prepared foods for and clothing made from Rosewood Hotel just past sale and “cafe” area, it’s as natural fibers. Arrive early for Cardo on the Ancha. It’s open much a social scene as it is a best produce selection. from 10am to 2pm and place to shop. You can also

page !38 The Daily Mercados

between Guadalupe Ave. and backs up to the Artisans and San Antonio Abad, and Market (see below). Ignacio Ramirez, located Both are like mini versions of between Callejon de Loreto the Tuesday Market and are and Colegio. The main part open every day of the week. of the San Juan de Dios These markets are a great market is covered, although place to get fresh produce there are also numerous There are two daily outdoor booths. The Ignacio and fresh flowers, as well as mercados (markets) in town, Ramirez market is all indoors other canned goods and San Juan de Dios, located household supplies.

The Artisans Market

If it’s souvenirs you’re after, painted dishware, silver, don’t miss the artisans pewter and tin items, jewelry, (artisanos) market. Booths paper mache, papel picado begin on Colegio street (just off of Loreto in Centro) and

stretch up the stairs and into the Ignacio Ramirez market. You’ll find a large variety of handmade Mexican crafts, including embroidered (colorful tissue paper cut into tapestries and intricate intricate designs) and more. beadwork, as well as hand

Clients Talk About... Charles Thomas, Agent Charles Thomas saved us so much money! We are now the proud owners of the house we so desperately wanted.... Lisa T.S.

page !39 Words to Know

bakery panadería (pahn ah der REE ah) chicken store pollería (poy eh REE ah) fruit and vegetable store frutería (froo teh REE ah) “go ahead” (in parking lot) sale (SAH ley) groceries abarrotes (ah bah ROE tes) meat store carnicería (car niece er REE ah) neighborhood store tienda (TEE EN dah) Tuesday Market la placita (lah plah SEE tah) OR el tianguis (el TEE AHN geese) tortilla store tortillería (tor tee eh REE ah) watch, or look after cuida (QU EE thah)

CULTURE CLUB TIP #4 Difficulties and Differences What should you do when the Mexicans around you as get confused because they you’ve tried everything nice completely devoid of couth and assume that Mexicans think you can think of and that item manners. You may not care about things in the same way that was supposed to be what others think about you, that North Americans do. Sure, delivered/fixed/ready or that but if you think yelling is going some things are the same, but person who was supposed to to help you get what you want, MANY are not. Mexicans have show up never materializes, think again. The saying “You different values and different for the fifth or tenth time? catch more bees with honey habits. Don’t get mad when than vinegar” is especially true things aren’t done the way you First of all, make sure you here in Mexico. You wouldn’t think they should be. There’s understand clearly what is want to be the “ugly (North) probably a good reason. being said. If your Spanish is American”, would you? Consider your troubles a limited, you might have gotten learning experience, and the gist, but sometimes those adjust your future expectations little details that you didn’t accordingly. catch are just as important. Don’t be afraid to admit that Finally, try to understand these you don’t understand and try to Secondly, it might be helpful to differences. Try to, dare I say find someone bilingual to help re-read the section about it, enjoy these differences. And you. In any case, under no “Waiting” on page 8. if you can’t, try to accept them, circumstances should you lose because you definitely aren’t your temper and start yelling, Thirdly, keep in mind that going to change them. unless you want to be seen by many extranjeros (foreigners)

page !40 Spanish Language Schools

San Miguel is home to many (415) 152-0713 Warren Hardy good Spanish schools, both Centro http://warrenhardy.com/ within and outside of Centro. If San Rafael 6 you are looking for a private Josefina’s School (aka Colonia San Juan de Dios tutor or informal conversation 9 am-noon US Central Time: group, check the Civil List for Centro Mexicano de 011 – 52 (415) 154-4017 current hours and contact Lengua y Cultura) Afternoons US Central Time: information. What follows is a 011 – 52 (415) 152-4728 list of the most established This school offers intensive schools and their contact courses which are designed to information. get your Spanish up and running quickly. For adults Academia Hispano only. Americana (AHA) http://ahaspeakspanish.com http://www.josefinaschool.com/ Mesones #4 (415) 152-0763 Centro Colonia San Antonio (415)152-0349 Located on Orizaba in San Antonio, Josefina’s school holds regular and private Instituto Habla Hispana classes for students of all ages. The also offer a number of summer programs for children and teens, which include lots of activities and http://mexicospanish.com/ outings. Calzada de la Luz 25

Transportation

It’s easy to get around in San little shops and cafés I found Miguel, even if you don’t own a when I finally got out of the car. Obviously, you can walk to driving mindset. However, a lot of places, and this is when you need wheels, you really the best way to get to need wheels. Your trans- know the town. I was pleas- portation options are as antly surprised by all of the follows:

page !41 The Bus

Granted, the interior of most The upside? The bus is very your hands on one of those San Miguel buses is a far cry cheap. You can get most schedules that lists every stop from luxury. And you’ll get that anywhere in and around town on a particular route, the best “local” feeling on the bus, for 5 pesos; seniors with an way to find out where a complete with loud school Inapam ID and students with a particular bus goes is to simply kids, sweaty, aftershaved student ID pay less. get on and ride the route. Of bodies and musicians playing course, neighborhoods are for a handout. (I’ve frequently I’ve heard that sometimes the usually named on the front of wanted to pay these guys to tourist office across from the the bus, so you’ll have a stop playing, but that would be Jardin has bus schedules, but general idea of where you’re rude.) I’ve never seen one. Since going. you’ll be hard pressed to get

Taxis

Within and prices increase. If you are ServiTaxi at 152-5993 to close to worried about the price, ask arrange for pick up. Note, Centro, a the driver how much it will cost however, that a taxi typically taxis ride runs before you get in. Catching a charges double to come to a about $30 pesos during taxi on the street is safe, but if specific location. the day and $35 at night. Once you want one to come to your you get outside of Centro, the home, you can call, e.g.,

Shuttle Services

For trips to the airport, you can arrive at the airport on time. when your flight arrives late, as contact a company like They will also pick you up from policies vary. BajioGo at 152-1999 or the airport, provided you have Viajes San Miguel at made prior arrangements. 152-2537. They will come to Check in advance about how your house at whatever hour is the company handles pick-ups necessary to make sure you

Rental Cars If you want to drive yourself, Mexico City with a car that had BajioGo (see above) also you can call San Miguel plates allowing us to drive handles rentals. Rental Car at (415)152-0198 there every day of the week. It or (415)154- 8621. We rented couldn’t have been easier. a car from them and drove to

page !42 Words to Know car carro KAH roh parking (lot) estacionamiento es TAH see OWN ah me EN toh taxi taxi TACKS ee

Trash Pick-Up

When I first moved here I already waiting. Grab your on its designated days, except found trash collection protocol trash and carry it to the truck. for after holidays, when it so amusing that I actually tends to arrive later. In wrote a whole essay about it. If Don’t worry about some neighbor- you have a maid who is at your looking presentable. hoods, like house daily from early morning Slippers and bed head Guadiana, you on, you can skip this section. are perfectly can hang your She will take care of the trash acceptable. small trash bags and you will never have to (But not bare on a hook and think twice about it. For the feet, which is the trash men rest of you, here’s the drill. always a faux will gather them pas when in up for you. If you don’t already know, ask public in Mexico, a neighbor what day(s) and the beach notwithstanding.) If you are interested in time the trash truck comes to Wait in line politely with your recycling, there are a couple of your street. In most neighbor- neighbors, and when it’s your options. There is a place called hoods the trash is collected turn, pitch the bag up to the Reciqla on the Libremiento, on anywhere from one to three guy waiting inside the truck. If the left side of the road as you times a week. Gather up your you are obviously too weak to head toward La Luciernaga, trash and have it ready to go pitch your bag, someone will not far after Mega. Another the night before. On the help you. option is to take your morning of the designated recyclables to the organic trash day, start listening for a When you get back into your market on Saturdays, located loud metal clanging sound. house, note the time. The on the Rosewood property. That means the truck will trash truck will come more or (see Specialty Markets above.) either arrive shortly or is less about that time of the day

Clients Talk About.... Joseph Lown, Broker Using Joseph Lown as my listing agent was a great decision. Steve V.

page !43 Utilities

If you are renting the house been set up in the landlord’s If you have purchased a new you are staying in, you’ll have name and will stay that way, house, you will probably need to find out from the rental even if you rent for an to set up accounts with all of agent or landlord which utilities extended period. The phone, the utility companies. you are responsible for paying, internet, and cable vary from and of those, which you’ll have agreement to agreement. Gas Keep in mind that some to set up yourself, and which is not in anyone’s name, but utilities are state owned, and you can pay under the someone at your residence therefore you have no choice landlord’s name. (you, your maid) will need to but to use that utility company. be in charge of keeping your And now, in no particular Generally speaking, electricity tank full. order, the five major utilities and water will have already you will need to know about.

Electricity

The electric company, CFE, is machine, which you must use for the convenience. You just government owned. They if your bill is under $5,000 have to make sure you take have the power to make your pesos. There is also an your bill to these alternative life very miserable; hence, do automated machine at the pay stations three days or not mess with them. They will more before it’s due. cut off your service if your bill is not paid timely, and they You will receive your bill in one aren’t necessarily quick to of various ways. If you are one reinstate said service. of the chosen few, it will be Moreover, lines at the CFE delivered directly into your building are notoriously long mailbox by a CFE employee. (best to avoid going on a However, it is just as likely to Monday or Friday), and be delivered under that crack employees generally don’t in your door or on the speak any English. Moral of windowsill in the front of your the story? Pay your bill on or house or even under the before its due date. windshield wiper of your car, all of which are considered On the brighter side, you Luciernaga close enough for government probably won’t need to set up (Liverpool) mall. However, work. Residential bills come an account at CFE unless you your most convenient option is every two months, rural bills are building a new house or to skip the Loreto office monthly. have purchased a brand new altogether and pay at any one. And, the CFE office on OXXO or certain What happens if you don’t Loreto in El Centro has an neighborhood stores, although receive your bill? (i.e., it blew automated bill paying you’ll be charged a small fee away, the neighbor’s dog

page !44 expected to pay it! And if you current bill for you, which you but don’t let that stop don’t, it’s quite possible that an can then pay. you...adelante! Just click here. electrician will be sent to your house to disconnect your line, At this point you might be Finally, if power goes out in and pronto! To avoid that asking, “Can’t I just pay my your home and/or neighbor- fiasco, note on your calendar electric bill electronically?” hood, you can call 152-7393 the approximate due date of Indeed you can! You’ll just and report it (in Spanish), and your next bill and if you don’t need a credit or debit card sometimes such a call actually receive it, go to the CFE office from a Mexican bank, and the does help. with one of your old bills and ability to read a little Spanish, they will print out a new,

Water (not for drinking...)

Water comes from another Luciernaga.) You can pay your government owned company bill there (M-F, 8-3:15), or at a called SAPASMA (152-4641). number of other places listed Their main office is an orange on the back of the bill, building located on the including (among others) Caracol (highway /glorietta Bancomer, Banorte, Coppel, leading Scotiabank and various “cajas from Mega populares” (credit unions). If To set up an account, go to the to you are paying at a location main office, and there should Luciernaga, besides the main office, be someone there who can on the left however, you must do so three help you in English. You might side of the days before the due date. want to call them first to find road just out what paperwork you’ll before you need. reach La

Telephone and Internet

Telephone line options are There is a bus stop in front of Another telephone option is slightly more varied. TelMex the entrance, which makes it a MegaCable, formerly known provides “land lines” and is the little hard to see if you are as TeleCable, which has two main company through which driving. There is often at least branches, one located on phone lines are purchased. one employee on duty who Salida a Celaya, next to the The TelMex office is located speaks English. car dealership on the right side on the Salida a Celaya, on the of the street as you are going left side of the street as you TelMex also provides toward Mega, and another in are heading toward Mega and paquetes (packages) which the La Luciernaga mall. shortly after you have passed include land lines, cell phones, MegaCable offers land lines*, the Pemex gas station and internet and satellite dish cell phones, internet, cable Cinco de Mayo on your left. service. t.v., as well as paquetes with

page !45 various combinations of the the cheaper the cost per aforementioned. The customer minute. service agents speak English and setting up an account is Telcel is probably the most pretty easy, although the lines reliable service, but not the can be rather slow. cheapest. They also offer Apple, Blackberry, LG, and contract plans and pay as you *Their landline phone service many others. go. Whether you choose is a VOIP (Voice Over Internet Iusacell, Telcell or one of the Protocol) so it’s more like a others, you can purchase Vonage phone, which depends They generally have good credit at the check out on your internet connection, service and coverage but on counters of Oxxo, banks, and not actually a true land holiday weekends when lots of Mega, and many other stores. line. tourists are in town, their network gets maxed out and service can be very spotty, There are also several cell which means that many calls phone companies in town. just won’t go through. They Iusacell is probably the offer contract plans or pay as cheapest per minute service. you go. When you purchase They are located in the La your phone, ask which Luciernaga Mall and can be “recharge” amount gets you reached at (415) 153 1901. the most for your money. They offer various plans for Generally speaking, the more various types of phones, e.g., credit you put on your phone,

Gas

Having gas (liquid we were out of gas. (You can send a truck to your house: propane) only do so much in a toaster "¿Me puede mandar un delivered to your oven. And no, they didn’t camión?” which literally house might come on Christmas day. I had translates “Could you send a seem strange, to wait until the next day to be truck to me?” but soon you extraordinarily thankful.) will get used to it. Perhaps There are several different gas one day you companies that you can order will even be your gas from, such as extraordinarily thankful to (among others) Gas Express see that familiar truck, as I Nieto (152-6691) and Gas was the year that we woke up Noel (155-8100). Just call up Christmas morning to realize the company and ask if they’ll

page !46 might have on your gas BBQ back home. They have similar small tanks for your home that are about 4 feet tall. These are not filled up by the tank truck but are exchanged by a different type of truck that only you should be able to say in carries cilindros. For your BBQ Spanish, because most of They will probably ask if you or outside heater tank, stop these gas companies do not need a cylinder (cilindro) or one of the trucks driving by have any English speaking have a stationary tank (tanque your house, give it to them, employees. However, you estacionario). The and they will deliver it back full don’t need to set up an estacionarios are the big ones the next day. account with them beforehand. that are free standing, which is Just call them to come to your probably what you have. The gas company you call will house and pay them when also ask for your phone they’ve finished filling your The other option is those small number and address, which tank. It’s customary to tip these cylindrical tanks like those you guys as well.

Drinking Water

“Santorini! Santorini!”, run (for when they ask when they outside and tell him that you should come back), you would like to buy water. (easy, should be fine. It’s courteous I’ve lived in Mexico for so long no?) The first time you to tip these guys a few pesos. now that when I see people purchase water you will also drinking out of the tap in a be paying for the garrafones, movie my first instinct is to Also, you’ll probably want to around 60-70 pesos each, shout “No! Don’t drink it!” buy a ceramic container plus around 30 pesos for the Needless to say, unless you (sometimes accompanied by a water. have a filtration system metal stand) for installed in your house, you easy dispensing. won’t be drinking out of the Once you’ve purchased (Just look for those tap. water from that particular stores that sell company once or twice, talavera tiles.) they will usually stop by your However, if you are For this reason you’ll need to house regularly to see if you really pinched for buy your water in a garrafón, need more. When they come pennies, you can or giant plastic water bottle. back, you’ll simply exchange always buy a very There are several different your empty bottles for full inexpensive plastic companies that will deliver ones and pay only for the pump that water to your house, such as water. I’ve never spoken attaches to the Santorini, Bonafont, and Ciel. English to any of these young water bottle and chaps but as long as you simply set the To set up service, when you know your numbers (for the bottle on a table. hear a guy yelling, e.g., cost) and days of the week

page !47 Visas and Permission to Work

Can a foreigner do business In Getting permission to work for San Miguel de Allende? The an existing company may be short answer to the question is much easier than getting yes. approval to work on your own. In this case your potential Generally speaking, the first employer would write a letter condition to doing business as on your behalf and “sponsor” tor or officer of a corporation a foreigner in San Miguel de you. However, permission that is set up to build. Allende, and in Mexico in based on a sponsorship general, is to obtain the allows you to work for that Should you choose to start a proper approval and particular company only. corporation, you will also need accompanying visa from to create an account with the immigration. Unlike in the U.S. If your source of income is appropriate tax authorities. or Canada, where after get- foreign, meaning originating The advice of a good ting a visa to work you can do outside of Mexico, whether accountant and attorney at this any business activity you you complete this work via point will be well worth your choose, in Mexico, every travel, the phone or internet, money. If you need a specific economic activity will you do not need a visa giving recommendation for either or need approval. you permission to work. Most both, please don’t hesitate to foreigners in this category do contact Realty San Miguel for The business activities which not have a working visa, and a referral. are easiest to get approval for some only have a tourist visa. are artistic in nature, namely, making and selling art of If your business idea is some kind. Obtaining something that may not permission for other types of easily get approval, there is businesses is often more always the option of starting difficult. a Mexican corporation, which somewhat sidesteps the visa Generally speaking, Mexico limitations placed on certain does not want to give types of work. Since there is approval to foreigners to do nothing that prohibits a work that could easily be done foreigner from owing a by its own citizens. Mexican corporation, you can Additionally, if your field either form one yourself or requires a license, such as buy one. Immigration will medicine or architecture, then issue you a working visa submission of all of your to be a director or officer of diplomas/certifications/etc., the corporation. So, while will be required, and possibly immigration may not give you also approval by the permission to work as a appropriate licensing agency. builder, for example, they will give you a visa to be a direc-

page !48 Words to Know cylinder (of gas) cilindro (see LEEN droh) giant water bottle garrafón (gar ah PHONE) stationary (gas) tank tanque estacionario (TAN keh es tah see oh NAR ee oh)

That’s All Folks!

We hope you’ve found the information in this notification of any “dead” links that you might guide helpful. We’ve done our best to provide come across. Please write to us at: accurate and current information. However, if you [email protected]. are listed in this guide and your contact information changes, please let us know so that And most importantly, have a great stay in San we can update it. We’d also appreciate Miguel de Allende!

The Team at Realty San Miguel

Left to right, front row: Gloria Farias (agent), Kathy Patterson (agent), Philip Hardcastle (broker), Lucero Toboada (administrator), Magaly Trujillo (agent), Edgar Cancino (agent), Charles Thomas (agent). Back row: Bryan Townsend (agent), Oliver Caraco (agent), Eduardo Mora (agent), Gillian Gallo (agent), Jessica Avendaño (agent), Joseph Lown (broker), David MacLean (agent). Not pictured: Edna Orenday (agent)

page !49 CONTRIBUTORS

CONTENT & DESIGN

Nancy Hardcastle

PHOTOGRAPHY

Ria Hardcastle Shantal Surving Jim Knoch

THANKS TO:

Mary Meade, for your invaluable graphic design expertise.

All of the individuals, stores, schools and services which agreed to participate in this guide and provided their information. We appreciate your support!

page !50