Jochen Strähle Editor Green Fashion Retail Springer Series in Fashion Business
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Springer Series in Fashion Business Jochen Strähle Editor Green Fashion Retail Springer Series in Fashion Business Series editor Tsan-Ming Choi, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hung Hom, Hong Kong More information about this series at http://www.springer.com/series/15202 Jochen Strähle Editor Green Fashion Retail 123 Editor Jochen Strähle School of Textiles and Design Reutlingen University Reutlingen Germany ISSN 2366-8776 ISSN 2366-8784 (electronic) Springer Series in Fashion Business ISBN 978-981-10-2439-9 ISBN 978-981-10-2440-5 (eBook) DOI 10.1007/978-981-10-2440-5 Library of Congress Control Number: 2016949605 © Springer Science+Business Media Singapore 2017 This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. Printed on acid-free paper This Springer imprint is published by Springer Nature The registered company is Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd. The registered company address is: 152 Beach Road, #22-06/08 Gateway East, Singapore 189721, Singapore Acknowledgments I would like to thank all the authors of this book for their contribution. It is always a huge challenge to focus on individual topics and to deliver in-depth results. I am very happy to have worked together with this team and I think everyone can be proud of the final outcome. I especially would like to thank Prof. Tsan-Ming Choi from the Hong Kong Polytechnic University for giving us the opportunity to publish this book within the book series Fashion Business. Many thanks also to all my research partners and academics worldwide who have inspired me with their works, research results and have given me constructive feedback throughout the last years. Last but not least, I would like to thank my Ph.D. Student Mr. Deniz Köksal for organizing the publication procedure, formatting, and aligning the content. Without him this book could not have been published. v Contents 1 Green Fashion Retail ..................................... 1 Jochen Strähle 2 Key Aspects of Sustainability in Fashion Retail ................ 7 Jochen Strähle and Viola Müller 3 Closed-Loop Production: A Literature Review ................. 27 Jochen Strähle and Franziska Philipsen 4 Impact on Sustainability: Production Versus Consumption ....... 49 Jochen Strähle and Katharina Hauk 5 Impact of Sustainable Manufacturing Standards for Retail Brands ................................................. 77 Jochen Strähle and Sarah Kreuzhermes 6 The Prosumer Concept in Fashion Retail: Potentials and Limitations.............................................. 95 Jochen Strähle and Anna-Katharina Grünewald 7 The Second Hand Market for Fashion Products................ 119 Jochen Strähle and Linda Maria Klatt 8 Collaborative Consumption 2.0: An Alternative to Fast Fashion Consumption ..................................... 135 Jochen Strähle and Carina Erhard 9 Cross-Industry Learnings: What Fashion Retail Can Learn from the Used-Car Industry ................................ 157 Jochen Strähle and Maria Höhn 10 The Value Chain of a Branded Second Hand Store—Possible Activities to Be Integrated by a Conventional Fashion Brand ..... 175 Jochen Strähle and Franziska Sophie Matthaei vii viii Contents 11 Case Study: Loop Extension of Filippa K ..................... 199 Jochen Strähle and Alexander Schnaidt 12 The Role of Social Media for a Sustainable Consumption ........ 225 Jochen Strähle and Chantal Gräff 13 Potentials of a Fashion fTRACE App ........................ 249 Jochen Strähle and Marie Caterina Sfameni 14 Case Study: Total Transparency at Honestby.com .............. 269 Jochen Strähle and Laura Merz List of Figures Figure 2.1 Clothing supply chain. Adapted from Gwilt (2014)......... 8 Figure 2.2 5R’s of sustainability. Own figure based on Esty and Winston (2006)................................. 14 Figure 2.3 Sustainability and energy management system implementation. Adapted from Jamieson and Hughes (2013) ................................. 20 Figure 3.1 Forward and reverse supply chain. Adapted from Talbot et al. (2007) ............................. 29 Figure 3.2 Closed-loop supply chain. Adapted from Li (2013)......... 31 Figure 3.3 ECOLOG closed-loop supply chain. Adapted from Morana and Seuring (2007) ...................... 31 Figure 3.4 Collection options Nike. Adapted from Kumar and Malegeant (2006) ............................... 37 Figure 3.5 Product development process in remanufacturing. Own figure based on Dissanayake and Sinha (2015)........ 41 Figure 3.6 Competition versus cooperation mode. Adapted from Wang et al. (2014) ............................. 43 Figure 3.7 Three types of constraints. Adapted from Geyer and Van Wassenhove (2005).......................... 45 Figure 4.1 3P’s: people, planet and profit. Based on Slaper and Hall (2011) .................................... 51 Figure 4.2 Complexity of the fashion supply chain. Adapted from Kogg (2009) ........................... 52 Figure 4.3 World demand for natural and man-made fibres. Adopted from Allwood et al. (2006) .................... 54 Figure 4.4 Hourly wages in the fashion industry. Adopted from Allwood et al. (2006) .................... 56 Figure 4.5 Attitude–behaviour gap in fashion consumption. Based on Antonetti and Maklan (2015) and Laitala et al. (2015) ............................. 63 ix x List of Figures Figure 4.6 Impact on sustainability in percentages of the different fashion lifecycle stages. Adapted from Beton et al. (2014) ...................... 64 Figure 4.7 Coherence of fashion production and consumption. Own illustration.................................... 66 Figure 4.8 Responsibility among fashion production and consumption. Own illustration ..................... 67 Figure 5.1 Forms of communication. Adapted from Bruhn (2015) ...... 84 Figure 6.1 Betabrand—the crowdfunding platform. Adapted from Betabrand—Crowdfunded Clothing (2016) ........... 103 Figure 6.2 3D printing fashion items. Adapted from 3D Fashion (2016) .................................... 105 Figure 6.3 NikeID—the online co-creation. Adapted from Co-creation (2016) ............................. 108 Figure 8.1 Consumption process. Adapted from Solomon (2011)....... 137 Figure 8.2 Consumption of the world’s natural resources. Own illustration adapted from Friends of the Earth Europe (2009) ..................................... 138 Figure 8.3 Sustainable consumption along the process of consumption. Adapted from Solomon (2011) and Schulz (2013) .................................. 139 Figure 8.4 Alternative forms of consumption. Adapted from Botsman and Rogers (2011) ...................... 143 Figure 8.5 Sharing and renting willingness of consumers. Own illustration adopted from Nielsen (2014)............. 144 Figure 8.6 Classification of sharing economy, collaborative economy and collaborative consumption. Own illustration adopted from Botsman (2013)............ 145 Figure 8.7 Collaborative consumption models. Botsman and Rogers (2011) .................................. 146 Figure 8.8 Point system of the fashion library Lena. Adapted from Lena-library (2015)...................... 148 Figure 9.1 The extended supply chain. Adapted from Beamon (1999) ................................ 159 Figure 9.2 Negative and positive transfer between used clothing and consumer self-concept. Adapted from Roux and Korchia (2006) ................................. 162 Figure 9.3 Four-pillar template for business models. Adapted from Osterwalder (2004) ...................... 167 Figure 10.1 The generic value chain and an exemplary subdivision. Adapted from Porter (1998)........................... 179 List of Figures xi Figure 10.2 Activities to be integrated in the value chain of a branded second hand store. Own visualization based on Chan et al. (2015), Choi et al. (2015), Connell and Kozar (2014), Kate Fletcher and Grose (2012), Kant Hvass (2014), Pal (2015), Porter (1998), and WRAP (2013) ...................... 180 Figure 11.1 The process of a closed-loop supply chain. Adapted from Bloemhof et al. (2012) ................... 201 Figure 11.2 Nine planetary boundaries. Adapted from Steffen et al. (2015) and Rockströmet’al. (2009)..................... 205 Figure 11.3 Filippa K front runners. Own illustration adapted from Filippa (2015c) ................................ 210 Figure 11.4 Fiber percentage share from 2012 to 2014. Adapted from Filippa (2014) .......................... 215 Figure 11.5 Filippa K’s production per country and continent in 2014. Adapted from Filippa (2014) .......................... 216 Figure 11.6 Numbers of filippa