Tear It up and Start Again!

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THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND IN THE ISSUE Issue 01 • 2011 • January 7 - February 3 + COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS - INSIDE!

Tear it up and start again!

What happened during the last decade? How can we avoid messing up the new one? : ) Phew. New decade time. This is a joyous occasion, as the one we're leaving behind was by most accounts a failed one (although it did have some awesome bits in between). In our first issue of this shiny new decade, we consult historians, poets, CEOs, authors, politicians, artists, businessfolks, teenagers and seniors alike to try and determine just what happened, and what's in store. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 1 — 2011 The Reykjavík Grapevine Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík 2 www.grapevine.is [email protected] Editorial | Haukur S. Magnússon Published by Fröken ehf. www.froken.is Member of the Icelandic Travel Industry Association www.saf.is

Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 25.000 copies.

Editor: Haukur S Magnússon / [email protected] Journalist: Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir / [email protected] HOPE and CHANGE and stuff Editorial: +354 540 3600 / [email protected] Advertising: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] I watched the Prime Minister’s address on New +354 540 3601 / [email protected] Year’s Eve. I should not have bothered. There were

Contributing Writers: no surprises. It was Your Standard Prime Minister Eísabet Jökulsdóttir Of Iceland’s New Year’s Address, with no original Jón Baldvin Hannibalsson Ásmundur Ásmundsson thought (nor commentary, nor ideas, nor sign of Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl life) managing to seep through the thick cloak of Sigríður Þorgeirsdóttir mundane mediocrity that Iceland’s government Bart Cameron Kristín Eiríksdóttir seems determined to shroud itself in. Bob Cluness Guðrún Eva Mínervudóttir Haukur Viðar Alfreðsson Even though you could say I support our current Haukur Már Helgason government—in the sense that I wouldn’t want Paul F. Nikolov Hilmar Magnússon any of the other parties occupying Alþingi at pres- Einar Már Guðmundsson ent governing me—and even though I am rooting Óttar M. Norðfjörð for it—in the sense that I agree with most of the Birkir Fjalar Viðarsson and inventive and original and progressive. Per- Margrét Tryggvadóttir goals they’ve set and I hope that they reach them— haps now is not the time for ‘hope’ and ‘change’ Íris Erlingsdóttir I have some very mixed feelings about it. In fact and stuff. Perhaps there is only one way out of this Þorgerður Einarsdóttir you could say that I don’t really... like it. Áslaug Friðriksdóttir mess, and perhaps it is the one we are currently TRACK OF Íris Erlingsdóttir trudging along. THE ISSUE Dr. Gunni The governing parties are not behaving in a way Steinunn Gunnlaugsdóttir Download your free track at Siv Friðleifsdóttir that makes me especially proud to have voted them And to be fair, the current government was faced grapevine.is Bergrún Anna Hallsteinsdóttir in office, and they neither actively represent nor Magnús Sveinn Helgason with a damn near impossible situation upon tak- uphold the values they strive to associate them- ing the reins. It has soldiered on relentlessly. And Editorial Interns: selves with (and that I quite agree with). indeed, it has accomplished many good things in Alda Kravec / [email protected] Sindri Eldon / [email protected] its time, and initiated some much needed change Even though they are far from living up to their (for instance with regards to gay rights. I am all On-line News Editor Paul Nikolov / [email protected] promises, they still present no surprises. That for gay rights). Art Director: such groupings of career politicians working TRACK OF THE ISSUE Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected] within veteran political structures would jadedly And to be fair (fairness is important), some of Design: Prinspóló: Niðrá strönd Páll Hilmarsson / [email protected] trudge on trying to maintain the system that has those we’ve recently voted in exactly because they Download the FREE track at www.grapevine.is Photographer: bred and fed them is entirely unsurprising. promised new things and different approaches ap- Hörður Sveinsson / hordursveinsson.com This is pretty much the best Icelandic country song ever writ- Sales Director: pear to be in the process of striking out, too (but ten, and by country, I mean real, bona-fide Icelandic country Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] Maybe what’s surprising is that some of us dared to be fair, we will give them a year in office before Guðmundur Rúnar Svansson / [email protected] that actually makes you think of Iceland, and not just some hope the great opportunity ICELAND’S TOTAL fat baby boomer re-doing an American song with Icelandic Distribution: despairing completely). [email protected] COLLAPSE presented would perhaps be used to lyrics. It’s queer and quirky without being too pretentious about it, and cynical without being pompous and melancholy. Proofreader: usher in some much needed and positive change. Jim Rice But I was still hoping for something different, and It’s really just one guy with a couple of overdubbed guitars singing about a woman he doesn’t get, and sometimes, that’s Press releases: That it would inspire us to try new things; new sys- something more. all you fucking need right there. [email protected] tems, new ideas and new ways of thinking. That www.facebook.com/prinspolo Submissions inquiries: [email protected] we would maybe collectively envision and imple- Perhaps it is time I place my hopes elsewhere? Subscription inquiries: ment novel and exciting ways of rebuilding some +354 540 3605 / [email protected] of our fallen structures, even dropping some dead General inquiries: Or perhaps this is a time for hopelessness? [email protected] weight along the way. Y’know. Founders: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, I hope not. Hörður Kristbjörnsson, I might be wrong. Geez, I hope I’m wrong. Per- Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, haps now isn’t the time to try new things or differ- Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, Valur Gunnarsson ent approaches. Perhaps this isn’t a time to be fun

The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, and fortnightly from May til Octo- Comic | Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir ber. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. The Reykjavík Grapevine is dis- tributed around Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Seyðisfjörður, Borgarnes, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at key locations along road #1, and all major tourist attractions and tourist information centres in the country. You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’).

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THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND IN THE ISSUE Issue 01 • 2011 • January 7 - February 3 + COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS - INSIDE!

Tear it up and start again!

What happened during the last decade? Illustration: How can we avoid messing up the new one? : ) Phew. New decade time. This is a joyous occasion, as the one we're leaving behind was by most accounts a failed one (although it did have some awesome bits in between). In our first issue of this shiny new decade, we consult historians, poets, CEOs, authors, politicians, artists, businessfolks, teenagers and seniors alike to try and determine just what happened, and what's in store. Hristbjörnsson - this.is/trendy

ICELAND :: FILM – Berlin – Copenhagen – Reykjavík MEDIEVAL MANUSCRIPTS – EDDAS AND SAGAS ICELANDERS – AN EXHIBITION OF PHOTOGRAPHS Icelandic Filmmaking 1904-2008 The Ancient Vellums on Display The spirit of the Icelandic nation in words and images.

EXHIBITIONS - GUIDED TOURS The Culture House – Þjóðmenningarhúsið Open daily between 11 am and 5 pm CAFETERIA - CULTURE SHOP National Centre for Cultural Heritage Free guided tour of THE MEDIEVAL MANU- Hverﬁ sgata 15 · 101 Reykjavík (City Centre) SCRIPTS exhibition Mon and Fri at 3:30 pm. Tel: 545 1400 · www.thjodmenning.is SUPER JEEP ADVENTURES

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EASY AND ACCESSIBLE FOR EVERYONE MOUNTAINGUIDES.IS [email protected] Icelandair Pioneer Tel: +354 587 9999 Award 2006 or visit the ITM INFORMATION AND BOOKING CENTER, For designing and For environmental policy For education and continuous For innovation and developing Glacier Walks. and awareness. training of guides. development of Glacier Walks. Bankastræti 2 - Downtown, Reykjavík Sour grapes MOST AWESOME LETTER and stuff Some excellent music from our good friends at Kimi Records What's better than starting your New Year off with some new music for your stereo? Nothing, Say your piece, voice that's what. Well, maybe a free case of beer is slightly better, but we don't have any of those your opinion, send to give away at the moment, so this issue's MOST AWESOME LETTER WRITER will have to your letters to: settle for some new, free music. [email protected] Yes, our prize for sending in awesome letters this month is two whole CDs of music, graciously donated by our friends at Kimi Records. Whoever wrote that letter may pick up his or her prize at the Havarí store in Austurstræti. He or she can choose any two records from the growing Kimi catalogue (browse it at www.havari.grapewire.net) and just sort of grab them from whatever friendly Havarí record store clerk is working when they get there. 4 Now, if you're in the market for free goodies next month, write us some sort of letter. Give us Letters your worst: [email protected] MOST AWESOME LETTER:

I am not a professional potographer. I only come to Iceland for the sake of tak- NASA: “Ma’m, I’m afraid I’m going really wanted to come to Iceland and ing only one photo of Iceland, but also to have to ask you to le- oh, God, your take picture. I had tried to speak with spoke to NASA and the University of eyes... no, please, please… I’ll do any- NASA, but could not get through to Houston to try to make the dream hap- thing you want… hold on, let me get anyone. I also visited with the Univer- pen is impressive enough in its sheer the project chief for Faster-Than-Light sity of Houston and could get anyone to audacity. Motherfucking NASA, for travel on the phone, he should be able communicate with me. I visited a li- Christ’s sake. We imagine the conver- to help you.” brary and they were vague. I wanted to sation must have gone something like Vickie: “Good, goooood.” be able to get close and take alot of pic- this: NASA: “Ma’m, I’m… sorry, sir, but he’s ture of your land. The pictures taken not picking up. I can’t get through to were really beautiful. anyone.” NASA: “Hi, welcome to the National Vickie: “Damn.” Kindest Regards, Aeronautics and Space Association, how may I help you?” We hope you do eventually get here. Vickie E. Null Vickie: “Good day. I am not a profes- Your picture would be badass. It would sional photographer, but I would really be the only picture ever displayed of like to take a picture of Iceland. You will Iceland. It would be on stamps, license Dear Vickie, help me do this.” plates and tattooed on the President’s NASA: “I’m… sorry, ma’m, but that re- ass. In the meantime, enjoy your free thank you for your letter. We must con- ally isn’t our department-“ CDs, for you, sir or madam, are awe- fess, we do not fully understand it, but Vickie: “Your petty excuses do not con- some, and we are awarding with our the fact that you, an amateur photog- cern me. You will get me to Iceland, or MOST AWESOME LETTER AWARD. rapher, would have been willing to not I will teach you the meaning of pain.”

Hallo together, know why the sailor did what he did. Dear Pekka, But what we do know is that sailors are I want to report to you an incident mysterious people. Very secretive. You Your letter was most inspiring. We do which saddened me quite a lot on the pose the question “what else could it not traditionally write snowstories, but last day of my Island stay last August. reasonably contain?” as if it is a given in response to your letter and attached that sailors only dump refuse. Perhaps photographs, we have decided to try to On August 28th I was on board a boat he was dumping drugs. Or hookers. Or write one: for a whalewatching tour off Reykjavik. nuns. He might be an Orthodox Chris- It was th last tour of that day and only 19 tian. You never know. I had traversed great lengths across passengers were on the boat. the frigid snow when I first spotted Dr. A man dumping refuse is a sad sight. Snowdon. I saw him through the snow On our way back to Reykjavik harbour We know of no man to be seen to dump as he waded through it, shielding his I was shocked to watch a crew member refuse in an attractive way, or indeed face from the blizzard with his snow dumping a sack of refuse (what else dumping anything in an attractive way. gloves. could it reasonably contain ?) from the While we are aware that attractive men “A fine day for so much snow,” he said, rear of the boat into the wash. often dump things (we have seen it on snow covering his snow-white beard as I the television), they never become more dismounted from my snowmobile. Unfortunately I was the only one to wit- attractive during the physical act of “Yes, I was expecting sleet, myself, but, ness that, all the other passengers were dumping. It is a fact. as they say, any day has the potential to elsewhere. The man who dumped the be a fine snow day.” sack did`nt notice me. We hope this letter is helpful to you, “Indeed,” he replied, and I noticed the also: Happy New Year to you and yours. black wrinkles in his snow suit gave Had I not seen this I would have firmly him the appearance of an anthropomor- denied that a person who lives with and phic snow leopard. “I say, is that a snow from the sea and it`s animals could be rifle?” able to pollute the element willfully, Snow can cause a lot of troubles, but I hefted the snow-white gun off my just for convenience. every snowcrystal is a masterpiece of shoulder, unclipping the snow sling design. I enclose two snowcrystal pho- from my snow jacket and handing him I ponder if this is common and toler- tomicrographs of mine. If you want, the rifle. He reached for it through the ated pratice in the trade ? Or was the you can use them freely in your snow- snow. individual just too lazy to carry the sack stories/blogs or webside during this “You know, I expected you here sooner,” HI Hostels Reykjavík ashore ? Or was he to save money ? winter. The last photograph won the he said, brushing snow out of the cham- - your affordable quality bed second place in world leading micro- ber as I absently made a miniature snow Sorry for bothering you with this, but photograph popular vote competition angel with my snow boot. We’ll be here, to arrange the most exciting I just had to find somebody to tell this. 2010. “Yes, I’m afraid I was snowed in this excursions at the best price, and offer you www.nikonsmallworld.com/popvote morning.” Check out our local advice on how to get the most from Regards and best wishes for Chrismas If you use them, please include the “Oh, really? Well, when life hands you website at and the New Year ! reference for the first picture: Pekka snow…” he began. www.hostel.is your stay in this wonderful city. Honkakoski, Finland and for the sec- “…you make snowballs,” I finished. We Horst Basermann ond picture: Pekka Honkakoski, Fin- laughed, two old friends in the snow… Stay at Reykjavík City land, Nikon Small World. Hostel or Reykjavík Dear Horst, …you know what, on second thought, Downtown Hostel. Yours! fuck this. That was probably the worst Hallo together yourself, and we hope Mr. Pekka Honkakoski story in the entire world. Thanks for the Reykjavík City Hostel the day finds you well. pictures though. Reykjavík Downtown Hostel This is most upsetting news. We don’t

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BSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík • +354 580 5400 • [email protected] • www.re.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 1 — 2011 6 GRAPEVINE’S News | Paul Nikolov ANNUAL The Stories That Made 2010 The general consensus around here about 2010 seems to be “good riddance”. Where YEAR-END 2009 gave us hope that we’d be able to emerge from the rubble of our ruined economy, 2010 was more like striding proudly from ROUNDUP said rubble, and falling flat on our faces. Let’s have a look at the stories that made this year that special Icelandic blend of disappoint- 2K10 EDITION! ment, rage and wry laughter. JANUARY A Call For Intelligent Innocence And The previous December, WHAT JUST HAPPENED? Transparency parliament narrowly For me personally I think 2010 was the beginning of something new. I think it [Sigríður Þorgeirsdóttir] passed into law the Ice- WHAT IS HAPPENING marked the end of an era of old politics and old ways of thinking and approaching save deal. Wait, we problems. I myself have had just about enough of this anger and frustration; we The year began with devas- mean the first Icesave RIGHT NOW? need to start focusing on the positive things we’ve got going for us. I think we deal. From the begin- tating earthquakes, pro- desperately need to start laughing more... by laughing it’s not that we’re not tak- ning, people hotly de- ceeded on to a volcanic WHERE ARE WE GOING? ing things seriously; we’re just making things a little bit lighter... brighter maybe? bated on the one hand eruption in, and ended with that taxpayers shouldn’t a lunar eclipse. It felt like nature reiter- bail out bankers, and on ated how big systems are crashing, and the other hand, that we’re sorta kinda bound (+ ‘WELCOME NEW DECADE’!) I think this will be the decade of less crap and more fun and creative thought. how the dirt and dust of lies and corrup- by international law to pay up. In the end, Ice- [Heiða Kristín Helgadóttir, Managing Director, The Best Party] tion surfaces, creating a mixed emotion land’s elected representatives would find the of hope and despair. President play his trump card for the second So this is the New Year. Again. Ex- Unsustainable financial systems time in Icelandic history when he told the nation that he was not going to sign the bill into cept this time is slightly different, crumble or are kept alive like a patient in 2010 was the year we were recovering from the shock of the economic collapse, law, but refer it instead to national referen- because we are also ringing in a an iron lung. Religious and pedagogical and re-evaluation in all spheres of life took over. We realised that life goes on. We dum. In fairness to the President, though, the new decade. Oh yes, say good- institutions are ridden with sexual abuse didn’t even get food stamps sent in the mail, though surely the numbers grew in Icesave bill was overwhelmingly rejected by bye to ‘the noughties’—it’s time for scandals, and fundamentalist fanatics the group of people who are in need of assistance from charitable organisations. the Icelandic people in the referendum, and us to mess up ‘THE TEENS’ (or is threaten hard-won tolerance in religious The economic collapse was maybe the best thing that could have happened to the new deal on the table will cost us billions less. it ‘tweens’? ‘tens’? Whatever you matters. Instead of service to humanity Icelanders. A new way of thinking and creative energy has emerged among many. “industries” and mere commercialism want to call them). Many people started to think about what really matters in life. At the same time FEBRUARY within all kinds of spheres, be it arts, sci- we suddenly remembered that there are people in the world that really have it ences, health or technologies, become This month saw the af- bad, in countries where there is no running water and too many children are termath of the Icesave By now, we have established a tradi- increasingly apparent. tion of devoting our entire first issue infected with HIV. We saw that we have it pretty good, despite everything. deal’s veto, with Dutch The WikiLeaks-phenomenon prom- and British authorities of the year to introspection and na- ises to herald a new era, reviving the fuming with rage and vel-gazing. These are our attempts promise of the Enlightenment of an en- The next decade will prove good to Icelanders. We will soon be energised and accusing the Icelandic to examine what happened in the lightened population. Of people who are full of optimism. I look forward to the day when every car in this country will be government of lying to them. There’s just no previous twelve months and how we informed about the movers and shakers propelled by domestic and clean energy, and we can use all the billions that go of the world, about the driving forces pleasing some people. feel about it all. toward fuel towards something much more useful. We are starting to understand Iceland also extended that only have one goal, to secure their that our primary resource is our hot and cold water. It has been too easy to let it wealth and might, regardless of how the help to Haiti, following a devastating earth- The idea is seek out and combine gush from our faucets, so we took it to be of little or no value. It will bring results quake, by sending rescue workers and tonnes Earth fares. when luxury spas are established across the country, and people race to the of bottled water to the country. The brightest some of the multitude of perspec- Politics stand on the one hand as a tives that make up our society in country in search of refreshment and rest. First and foremost will we be happier story of the month, though, was the introduc- Berlusconian type of corporate power, tion of the Icelandic Modern Media Initiative, order to map out the space we are and after all the self-scrutiny and creative energy this year, we will slow down the and on the other hand as the power of tempo and better enjoy living live in the present. a parliamentary resolution guaranteeing pro- currently occupying and, hopefully, people, who wake up from consumerist tections for whistleblowers and investigative [Bergþór Pálsson, Opera singer] gather insight into where we might apathy and act up. There is smoke and journalists from being pressured by the be heading. fire in the inner cities. The paint-stained wealthy and powerful. This resolution would have implications later in the year, when car of the Prince of Wales getting stuck in the midst of a crowd of demonstrating WikiLeaks became one of the top stories in We do this by looking to our com- 2010 was an interesting year. I often had the feeling that we were living in histori- the world. munity and asking several of its students is symbolic for the rage against cal times, both because of the political upheaval and also because of the Eyjafjal- the regime(s). respective members to contribute lajökull eruption. The eruption presented a grave danger that our tourism industry MARCH Against the lies and the corruption their thoughts, opinions and points would be badly hurt. We managed to prevent this from happening, and one of the Icesave referendum there is a call for intelligent innocence explanations is certainly the Inspired in Iceland project, which might be consid- time! Grapevine live- of view on “what has been happen- and transparency. For a new kind of ered the project of the year—a marketing campaign that harnessed social media blogged media covering” and “what will happen”. politics and for a better-informed popu- to put forth a message, and it worked. age of the event, and the results confirmed what lation. In post-crash Iceland we see an The people of Reykjavík sent a loud message in this spring’s municipal elec- numerous opinion polls To that end, we approached a great opening of cracks where the light shines tions, and new people from outside the conventional party system entered the through, but there is also a widespread in the previous month number of people from all walks of city government. Their critique of conventional politics entailed that political had been indicating— disappointment over how the murky old life and asked them to help us with promises and platforms were irrelevant, because they are never really followed this thing was dead in the task. Some chose to send lon- forces seize power again. or cast aside when parties enter coalition governments. This criticism isn’t nec- the water. Sure enough, ger pieces that somehow touched On a global scale, the openings of essarily merited in every way, but it will nonetheless be interesting to observe if over 90% of those who voted on the Icesave the new are threatened by powers that upon our subject, some answered things change for the better as a result. deal voted no. The biggest story of the month, resist to disclose their secrets. The next however, is undoubtedly the eruption of Fim- the specific questions we posed decade will tell whether they will domi- mvörðuháls in Eyjafjallajökull. It was a “tourist (“what about 2010?” and “what’s in volcano”—pretty plumes of lava shooting up in nate or burst due to the contradictions Let’s say that the coming decade will be one of the best in the history of this na- store?”) while others relayed their inherent to them. the air, doing no real damage to anyone or tion. It’ll be a post-banking collapse decade, where people enjoy their existence. anything. Many pinned their hopes on this thoughts over the phone. [Sigríður Þorgeirsdóttir is a professor of Culture will blossom like never before, and will be our main strength. eruption of bringing much-needed tourist Philosophy at the University of Iceland.] [Áslaug Friðriksdóttir, Managing Director, Sjá ] revenue into the country. Boy were they in for All of us humans have distinct ways a surprise... THE NEXT TEN YEARS: of perceiving the world and pro- hearts. If the same course becomes es- WORLD BANK, IMF, NATO, EU “Morality and something… oh yes, APRIL cessing our perceptions, and in do- tablished as in the rest of the western [Einar Már Guðmundsson, author] trust” With municipal elections ing so we construct it every day of world, we are in danger of seeing our [Elísabet Jökulsdóttir] coming up, a joke party our lives. Thus, you might consider nature lost and our connection to it rup- One year is a long time, es- started by comedian tured. In Völuspá it says that the land is pecially in Iceland, even this our attempt at a snapshot of a In stores, businesses and and actor Jón Gnarr made from the body of man. The land is though the years leap for- called ‘The Best Party’ small community at the edge of a public spaces, security cam- thus a part of man, and when man in- ward and sometimes there began to get more at- new decade—combining the pixels eras have long ago become teracts with the land, he interacts with are leap years. It has been an exciting tention. The Special In- of thoughts into a bigger picture. part of daily life and no one himself; he is connected to the land year. The world slowed down and that vestigative Commission, says a word about it. The cameras are and sympathises with it, and in return may be a good thing. Planes came to a which examined the supposed to protect us but they do more possible causes of the We urge you to read the thoughts the land sympathises with him. In this halt in the air or could not take off. Air- than that, they rob us of all trust, as we 2008 bank collapse, released its report. Ev- contained within the following pag- way, our forefathers sought comfort and lines counted their losses from volca- become like animals in a zoo who are eryone looked at the report which said that es while at the same time reflecting strength from our nature. noes but the volcanoes were not con- not trusted to behave unsupervised. Un- conservative ministers were incompetent, the on your own ideas on the subject When I stood in protest because of cerned with airlines. The comedian John der these conditions, morality does not Central Bank turned a blind eye, and that (if you get any good ones, do send the Kárahnjúkar dam project, I would Cleese took a taxi from Oslo to Brussels, bank managers were insatiably greedy and come from within, but is created and get calls at night from women in tears while comedians won the elections in said, “Duh.” The Eyjafjallajökull eruption— them along). Some of them are eye- enforced only externally. After the eco- because they couldn’t stand how the Reykjavík. They won not because they which had gone from pretty lava fountain to opening, some of them are optimis- nomic collapse, there were loud calls for Hellisheiði area was being destroyed were adept, but because the other con- giant ash-belching machine later in March— tic, others are grim, while all of them ethical reform in politics and business. by the Hellisheiði power plant. I believe tenders were inept. shut down air traffic across Europe and parts are unique and fun. Enjoy! But why is it that this surveillance of the of North America, making everyone angry at this relationship to nature is deeply in- The government, which describes it- public is left unchallenged? Between Iceland again. grained in us humans, and it has en- self as ‘socialist’, listens with more inter- Christmas and New Years I received a dured in Iceland up until these past few est to the banks’ resolution committees call from a collection agency. The voice years. than to the people of their country, and on the phone said: “Please be aware that Moral consciousness is a feeling, the financial sector owns the govern- this conversation may be recorded.” and the trust it creates is a feeling also. ment’s mind and heart. Still, it is the na- Why? Can’t two people be trusted to And if feelings live in the heart then our tion’s first purely left-wing government, solve a problem? hearts are being torn out, along with our elected in the wake of the greatest riot It is also with regard to nature that liver and lungs. that this country has seen. The one party value judgments are created externally, [Elísabet Jökulsdóttir is an author.] rather than being allowed to grow in our CONTINUES ON PAGE 8 Day Tours Activities - This month& in the spotlight:

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2010 | ...and on to the future! News | Paul Nikolov that did not come near the debauchery classes change, the lives of the middle are sometimes called bailouts for banks, the capitalistic structure. The Stories That Made 2010 now sits with the debauched mess in its classes change—everything changes but are based on transferring society’s What’s entirely different, however, is lap. except the system, the lives of the up- wealth and public assets over to these that in Greece the original revolt went MAY The elite are acquitted, which is per classes and the elites that surround faceless financial institutions. on for a month, but when the first wave Former Kaupthing direc- natural since they are well organised. them. If only Martin Luther were to come slowed down the flames of protest still tor Hreiðar Már Sigurðs- They have institutions such as the World If we imagine our economy as an or- back and dismantle the legal bureau- retained a spark. Opposition has since son was arrested by the Bank, the IMF, NATO and the EU at their ange, then the IMF plans to squeeze a cracy. The imagination obtains power spread and evolved as a real resistance special prosecutor for disposal, and compared with those in full crate of orange juice out of what is and returns to reality. to the systematic and pointed social de- numerous charges of violating financial laws. power, the public is poorly organised. but one orange. In the course of a de- The poet Hannes Sigfússon once struction and exploitation the govern- A few hours later, for- We are certainly living in an era of cade, the IMF plans to fix the economic proclaimed that the days of the sincere ment is engaged in under the pretext of mer Kaupthing bank change, where everything changes ex- downturn in such a way that will leave poem were numbered. Everyone evalu- recession. But in Iceland, where exactly manager in Luxem- cept the economic system. The climate no room for a decent life in the country. ates as they see fit, and a poem can be the same things are happening, every- bourg, Magnús Guð- changes, the rivers, the forests, the All of this is done in the name of the everything at once: forthright, sincere, thing died down almost as soon as an mundsson, was also arrested. A few days lat- birds, all of nature. The lives of the lower market. We receive news of the markets, heartfelt, funny, sad, hopeless, positive. election was announced. er, former Kaupthing chairman Sigurður how they are doing. The prognoses are But poems are just poems, and they are As this is being written—on Decem- Einarsson was listed as wanted by Interpol. good one day and bad the next. But who neither political platforms nor consti- ber 15, two years after the December This month also saw a little-known company has met this market? Has anyone shak- tutions, though of course it is possible revolt— Greece is undergoing a general called Magma Energy poised to purchase The year 2010 was the second year nearly all of Icelandic power company HS en its hand? to create platforms and constitutions strike. People of all ages attacked for- of the crash, instead of being the Orka, despite the company’s CEO, Ross Beaty, Still, a lot of things have happened in based on them. On the other hand, what mer ministers, burned vehicles, broke second year of recovery. The political assuring Grapevine the previous September our heads. The times are changing. The matters is: a neutral stance is a politi- the windows of banks and corporations turmoil and emotional fluctuations that they had no intentions of doing so. Out- power of the market rests on a similar cal stance, and the days of not taking a and threw rocks and Molotov cocktails rage ensued, with artist Björk Guðmundsdót- were hardly bearable for ordinary idea as the power of the Pope in the stand are numbered, because taking a at armed riot police. These people’s tir spearheading the campaign against the people. The President’s rejection of middle ages, on holy indulgences that stand is required… rebellion shows their dignity and spirit company, and more lies from Beaty followed. the Icesave bill, urged by a group When the Central Bank of Iceland that doesn’t bow down so easily to capi- The month finished with a bang, as city elec- of homogenous middle aged men, claims not to take a stand and not to get talism’s attacks on their freedom and tions saw the Best Party take the mayoral split the people of Iceland into two mixed up in the issues, then it is precise- rights. This is in striking contrast to the seat, forming a majority coalition with the So- conflicting camps. The Special In- cial Democrats. Looking over what has been achieved ly taking a stand and getting mixed up servile limpness that so quickly overtook vestigation Commission [SIC] Re- in disabled people’s fight for per- in the issues. Let’s be clear about this, Iceland after a short-lived revolt of the port gave a short hope of new times, JUNE sonal assistance and independent and it is the same when the financial wage-slaves in Iceland, the cracker fac- unfortunately not realised as yet. In living in Iceland, the biggest step is June was a very good sector suddenly begins to speak of jus- tory. month for gay rights. the local elections in the spring 2010, most definitely the founding of NPA tice when their actions are found to be What will the new decade bring? Parliament passed a law again a group of males made history miðstöðin (a centre for independent illegal. It is easy to see that the situation will that allows single wom- in Iceland. The Best Party was cer- living and personal assistance). The The social vision of crime fiction is keep getting worse in Iceland, and the en, as well as homosex- tainly not in line with the ethos of the centre is a cooperative run and con- usually based on cunningly conceived people’s reluctance to resist is a cause ual couples, to have ac- SIC report of responsibility and def- trolled by disabled people based on plots, corruption and crime, and is thus for great concern. The surrender and cess to donor eggs and erence. The year 2010 is the moment donor sperm for the the principles of the United Nations not unlike discussions in our society. apathy bring the dominant powers even of lost opportunities, not least in purpose of artificial in- convention on rights of people with Emphasis is laid on the exceptional in- more ways for oppression. But there are gender relations, a future that turned semination. Also, Ice- disabilities and the Independent Liv- dividual. This was evident in the Madoff other ways. People can look to protest- out to be a confirmation of a repeti- ing philosophy. The main goal of the land's parliament passed a law that eliminated case and his fraud racket. He admit- ers in Greece and elsewhere for inspira- the distinction between "marriage" for tive past. centre is to provide personal assis- ted to all the charges, was considered tion, because revolt does not only lead to straight couples and "civil unions" for gay tance and support disabled people to have worked ‘alone’ and no further human dignity, but also the possibility of couples, creating instead one marriage for all to become the leaders in their own investigation took place. Otherwise it something different, and better. Icelanders, regardless of sexual orientation. As an optimist I do believe in the lives. would have come to light that he was [Steinunn Gunnlaugsdóttir is an art- Jón Gnarr officially became the mayor of future and that human beings can Reykjavík, and the Icelandic Modern Media not alone, but rather part of the global ist and one of the Reykjavík 9, who are learn from experience, even the Initiative was passed in parliament. As a reso- economic system. charged for attacking Alþingi.] people of Iceland. At the same time I lution, though, not a law. Still, that’s some- In the next decade we want to see It was also evident in the ENRON must admit that I don’t think we have thing, right? the United Nations convention on case and in the expansion of the Ice- reached the bottom. I’m afraid there rights of people with disabilities be- landic banks. It was the same system. A Fortunate Nation JULY will be several years of a continued come ratified as well as the basis I envision more direct and political lit- [Siv Friðleifsdóttir] Pretty much the single deep split among people, anger and for all development in the services erature, and poetry that is informed by During these past years, our most noteworthy story mistrust in political institutions. We for disabled people. We also want old traditions, returns to Futurism and lives have had both positive of this month was the might be facing an atmosphere of to see our cooperative work hard Surrealism. I furthermore believe that and negative sides. Before back-and-forth be- extremist ideologies, nationalism, in advocating for independent living the fusion of storytelling, social sciences the collapse of the banks, a tween Magma Energy increased xenophobia and sexism. CEO Ross Beaty and and supporting disabled people in and economical studies that we have long period of prosperity prevailed. I think that democracy will be put artist Björk Guðmunds- being the leaders in their own lives. witnessed the world over, as well as the There was very little unemployment. to a test in the next decade, urging dóttir. He made a coy, We also hope to see the next decade blurred boundaries between philosophy Purchasing power increased substan- a pressure on grass-root activism, bring more consciousness about the not-entirely-serious and literature, is a very fertile ground. tially and most people were able to allow proposal to sell her environmentalists and feminists to human rights violation of disabled Storytelling will direct itself against the themselves to treat themselves and their shares in the company, and she responded to fight back. As long as we have strong people in Iceland and that the gov- discourse of those in power and there- families better than before. his condescension with expected annoyance. people with judgment enough to dis- ernment will place disabled people fore the boundaries of professional lit- A group of people came into a posi- An online petition to put Icelandic natural re- tinguish between short time gains in the frontline where they will guide erature and fiction will become fluid in tion that allowed them to receive wages, sources in public ownership began to gather and real sustainable values, finding the way to inclusion, independence, the coming years. The old social novel which today seem hardly possible to momentum as well. Ultimately, the govern- it worthwhile to be concerned, we ment would refuse to confirm the sale of HS full citizenship and human rights for will gain a new frame of reference. have been paid. These people danced have a hope of a better society by Orka to Magma Energy, pending an investiga- disabled people, and of course ev- Libertarianism distorts all realistic around the golden calf. The government the end of the next decade. tion into the legality of the deal. eryone else. subject matter. Now they will be repos- was also able to boost the welfare sys- [Þorgerður Einarsdóttir, Gender Stud- [Freyja Haraldsdóttir, disability rights sessed. The comical story will flourish. tem, such as health care and education. AUGUST ies Professor, Háskóli Íslands] activist ] Don Quixote has set off but doe not yet At the same time, taxes were lowered. This month saw contin- know where he is heading. On the other hand, society was char- ued pressure on Magma [Einar Már Guðmundsson is an author.] acterised by a great deal of speediness, Energy, as thousands greediness and even alienation. During signed the petition to Iceland saw three elections in 2010. Voters failed all of them. In March, we voted Iceland, The Cracker Factory the collapse of the banks, we woke up put natural resources in about a law that no one was fighting for, and was in fact never going to take ef- public ownership. Also, [Steinunn Gunnlaugsdóttir] to completely different circumstances. fect. The President claimed he was defending democracy, and said that Britain Iceland began to re- It was a watershed. Unemployment has lacked it. Iceland, however, had a deep-rooted tradition for democracy. Still, this ceive more attention on For nearly thirty years, dissi- increased and many homes are caught was the first national referendum in the republic’s 66-year history. Voters swal- the world stage, thanks dence wasn’t cool in Iceland. up in debt. This is not a good situation. lowed the bait, but their message was unclear. Aren’t we paying? Do we want a to WikiLeaks. Some of But during one good eco- However, research has shown a positive the attention wasn’t the good kind, though. better deal? A better government? nomic collapse, partaking in outcome in that children and teenagers Liz Cheney—former US vice president Dick May brought municipal elections. A satire party won Reykjavík. The party’s revolution became fashionable. A lot of are feeling better today than before the Cheney's daughter—called upon US president hitherto “jokes” have been better executed than many “real” politicians could people can feel saved by not missing crash because their parents have more Barack Obama to compel the Icelandic gov- muster. But what about the voters? They criticized the corruption, lack of direc- that Kodak moment. time to spend with them. ernment to shut down WikiLeaks, while Re- tion and betrayed promises of the old parties. Instead of acting responsibly and publican senator John Ensign decided to 2010 was a good year for authorities. Now we all have to work together offering up a real alternative they decided to gorge on the fast food and vote for make his displeasure known by temporarily It proved that a few months of revolu- to bring society forward despite having the only party that promised to deliver corruption, lack of direction and betrayed blocking US President Barack Obama's nomi- tionary status and two days of riot- fewer options than before. We need to promises. nee for US ambassador to Iceland. This month ing that led to the fall of a government optimise and prioritise in order to pro- In November, voters had a historical opportunity to choose members to a also saw the national church feeling the heat changed just about nothing. Every grim tect those basic elements of the welfare with regards to how they handle cases of committee that will pen a new constitution. The majority decided to pass on that prophecy made in the aftermath of the system that are most important. The sexual abuse within its walls. The resulting opportunity. collapse has come to fruition without following years will be characterised kerfuffle saw a rise in de-registration from the strikes, rebellion or attacks to the capi- by this challenge. However, I have faith church, and great calls for separation of talistic powers that caused the situation. that, seeing as Iceland possesses rich church and state. Iceland was like a microcosm of the globe in 2010. Both were characterised by Greece, the cradle of democracy, ex- resources and well-educated people, a great unrest, negativity and imbalance. The reasons? Selfishness, inequality, perienced a revolt at the same time as we can work ourselves out of the reces- injustice and an unsustainable way of life. Western countries complain about Iceland. Although the two uprisings are sion relatively quickly. Although we will their debt burden. Poorer nations struggle with calamities caused by fighting in many ways different, they are still in- feel the pinch for a while, we remain a over resources. Their residents flee the poverty and end up as third-rate citizens teresting to compare. Both places saw a fortunate nation compared to many oth- in richer countries, or they are refused entry by people who are largely respon- relatively small part of society protesting ers. sible for their original situation. People are oppressed and killed in the name of in the streets compared to how wide- [Siv Friðleifsdóttir is an MP for the Pro- freedom and justice, in wars that have the sole purpose of securing a standard spread public dissatisfaction had gotten. gressive Party.] of life for the upper classes. Frustration rises. Hatred amplifies. Those who point In Greece, it was the police authorities’ out the system’s inherent hypocrisy, for instance by leaking classified govern- murder of a teenage boy that set things ment documents to the public, are thrown in jail. And all the while, mother Earth in motion. In Iceland, it was an economic suffers. These are the problems that we face, and need to solve over the next collapse. But what boiled underneath decade. I have complete faith that we can do it, if only we can face ourselves and was similar: inequality, abuse of power, take responsibility. corruption and other consequences of [Hilmar Magnússon, International Communications Student ] Get todays international papers at Eymundsson

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THE BIGGEST CLUB IN DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK. LIVE MUSIC EVERY WEEKEND. WWW.NASA.IS The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 1 — 2011 Jón Baldvin Hannibalsson was leader of the Icelandic Social-Democratic Party from 1984-96 and Minister of Finance and Minister for Foreign Affairs and 10 External Trade from 1987-95. He is an honorary citizen of Vilnius, Lithuania.

The First Decade Of The 21st Century In Retrospect | Jón Baldvin Hannibalsson To Be Or Not To Be A Republic At A Crossroads

Will October 6th, 2008 (the day Iceland’s luckless PM Words Mr. Haarde, asked God to Jón Baldvin Hannibalsson help his poor nation since Photography he himself could not) live on Julia Staples in our collective memory as a “day of infamy”—a sort of Icelandic Pearl Harbour?

Pearl Harbour is today remembered mum government interference in the by Americans because of Japan’s aerial free play of market forces. If something bombardment on the US naval station. were to go astray, the market forces And because it led to the Americans' could be trusted to correct it by them- involvement in the Second World War. selves—or so they believed. This was Wars are inevitably both destabilising not only the professed ideology of the and devastating. People not only lose Independence Party leadership; it was their property—but their lives. the declared policy of the IP-led govern- In our case, Iceland’s economic col- ments that steered us, slowly but surely, lapse (“hrunið”) may yet claim a few into the crash. lives, but in most cases the losses are Iceland’s fall in 2008 was the di- less tangible. Many have lost their jobs, rect consequence of this pre-meditated their property, their savings. Some have policy. It was not the failure of capital- even lost their hope. Then there are ism as such. Capitalism cannot func- those who have already voted with their tion at all without direction, legislation feet—and emigrated. and constant supervision by the state. Some say our greatest loss is our It was the US-style predatory type of reputation as an honest and trustwor- capitalism, let loose without proper thy people. Because in our case, we did democratic control that failed here as not suffer an attack from an outside en- elsewhere. The biggest lesson to be emy. In our case the enemy came from learned from this catastrophic experi- “He who does not acknowledge his mistakes and blames everybody else for his within. That is what makes it all the ment is simply this: never again. Never more painful. And it explains, partly again should we let the selfish, greedy own faults is not going to learn from those mistakes. He is doomed to repeat at least, why so many find it almost un- and short-sighted have a chance to play them. Sorry.” bearable to face the truth: We have only whimsically with our fortune. Now, my ourselves to blame—and no one else. countrymen must find their way back to the Nordic family of nations, with truth of William Black's dictum: “The When ultimately Iceland met its can capitalism. It is there to ensure that their democratic and egalitarian way of ‘THE THREE WISE MEN’ best way to rob a bank is to own a bank.” fate, this once egalitarian Nordic na- the interests of international capital life, or else face social disintegration. The best thing that has happened to This ideologically conceived and utterly tion had, by the impact of grisly ideol- are duly taken into account when na- us after the crash is the truth-com- reckless experiment with the fate of a ogy and shortsighted and irresponsible tion states threaten to default. Since we THE NEO-CON UTOPIA mission-report by ‘the three wise nation was doomed from the start. politics, been turned into a caricature are broke and already over our head in The ‘three wise men’, in their volu- men’. Nine volumes and almost three Why didn't the government act in of US-style casino capitalism. Thus Ice- debt, we don’t have the option of pump- minous investigative report, amassed thousand pages, including appended time to avert a foreseeable calamity? land, which was meant to be a shining ing public money into the economy to unassailable evidence for how the mis- documents on the web. The truth and The simple answer is: In the thinking example of the neo-con model’s supe- stimulate economic activity. Therefore taken policies of the Independence nothing but the truth. They were asked of the Independence Party leaders and riority, became the first victim of its we have no choice but to accept the bit- Party-led governments after the 1999 to tell us the truth about the causes of their cohorts, this was not a mistake to ultimate global failure. The intellectual ter pill of the imposed austerity pro- elections gradually brought Iceland the collapse and to find out who was be corrected. On the contrary this was legacy of Reagan-Thatcher and their gram. We must cut our budgetary ex- towards the brink of the abyss. It all responsible. And they did just that— declared policy to be promoted. As late disciples has by now been relegated penditure on welfare and raise taxes to began with the practice—contrary to fairly and squarely. They spelled it all of 2007 it was the official policy of the to the “dustbin of history”. Unfortu- save enough money to pay our debt. We the law of the land—to allow a selected out in painstaking detail. Independence Party/Alliance’s coali- nately, that is also Iceland’s place in the must claw our way back out of the debt group of ship-owners to sell or rent The collapse was caused by a combi- tion government to enhance the finan- world—for the time being. prison. Can we do it? That is the ques- their fishing quotas (allowable catch), nation of fraudulent business schemes cial sector’s position as Iceland’s engine tion. which had been allotted to them by the and irresponsible politicians. And by of growth. To tell the truth, the prospects don’t state—for free. Thus the most valuable the way: the majority of Icelandic voters According to the evidence presented look too bright. He who is unable to ad- natural resource of the nation, actually cannot be acquitted either. Time and in the investigative report, the IP-lead mit his mistakes is by the same token a national property under the law, was “The fall of 2008 has again they voted for parties and politi- governments (1999-2009) turned out unable to correct them. He is therefore in practice privatised. It was handed cians who did not deserve the trust put to be amazingly incompetent. Instead mercilessly disclosed the doomed to repeat them. That seems to out to politically favoured groups of in them. Again and again. And the nou- of restraining the banks’ expansion be the most likely outcome for the time ship-owners—for free. This was very veaux riche buffoons—flaunting their and lending capacity, they enhanced underlying weaknesses being. When it comes to political solu- much in the same way as Russia’s rich ill-begotten wealth—were extolled as it, resulting in a classical real-estate tions—learning from our mistakes— resources of oil and gas were given to a of the young Icelandic the nation’s best sons. How many times bubble. Instead of applying the brakes, the only tools (the political parties) favoured few, in return for political sup- did the President of Iceland, Mr. Gríms- to rein in debt-based overspending, the we have for the job, are broken. Three port. This sort of blatant abuse of power republic. Not only is son—the hyper-active chef-de-protocol government stepped on the accelera- of the parties (The IP, the awkwardly could never have been thinkable in a of the plutocrats—ceremoniously actor, by drastic tax-cuts for the benefit of it still today unable to named Alliance—for what?) and the decent democratic state like Norway, for cord them the highest decorations of the rich. The Central Bank’s monetary so called Progressives, are all to a vary- example, with its enormous oil wealth. defend itself against state, making it impossible for honest policy was, according to the report, both ing degree discredited by their past The privatisation of the state-owned people to accept such commendations misconceived and ineffective. Because and compromised by their inability to banks to politically favoured groups of potential outside in the future? The critics’ voices were of Iceland’s automatic indexing of long- admit their failure of leadership. Who businessmen was pushed through in simply drowned, and the warning sig- term loans (with a fixed rate of inter- aggressors. But what can trust them? And if they cannot be much the same way by the leaders of nals—and there were plenty of them— est) to the CPI (consumer price index); trusted—who can replace them? Do the Independence Party and their part- were ignored. and because of the easy access to cheap about enemies from we need another bout of the “pots and ners. In a few years time, those tradi- No wonder how many are simply credit abroad, steep rises in the rate of pans” revolution? tional commercial banks, which had within?” unable to face the truth: Out of 147 interest were not only ineffective but The Left-Greens, although clear tended to the needs of the local commu- individuals in leading positions in gov- counter-productive. of any responsibility for the crash and nity, had been turned into international ernment, political parties, the Central It attracted speculative capital, seek- called upon to clean up the mess left investment banks (some say more like Bank, the civil service and banks and ing quick profits from interest-rate there by the others, are caught unpre- aggressive hedge-funds), amassing business corporations etc., questioned differentials, with disastrous conse- BROKEN TOOLS pared for the task of charting any fu- mountains of foreign-currency denom- by the truth-commission, not a single quences. It strengthened the króna, Who is to come to the rescue? How are ture course for the nation. Their mis- inated debt, through easy credit abroad. one admitted any responsibility at all, enhanced imports, pushed the trade we to find our way back to normalcy conceived antipathy for the European In four years (2003–2006) they had not to mention expressing a sense of deficit into world record figures and (after this mad ride as the “sorcerer’s Union and general economic illitera- piled up debt to the tune of ten times guilt or regret. “Not my department” helped pile up unsustainable debt. apprentice”)? That’s the point. We are cy—despite the heroic stamina of their Iceland’s GDP. Behind it, for ultimate was the standard refrain of those Long before the fall, Iceland’s economy broke (as a nation) and by definition chairman, turned Finance Minister— support if need be, were the meagre haughty elitists. This seems to be a na- had spiralled out of control and was unable to help ourselves. We need out- makes the party an awkward and unre- foreign currency reserves of the Ice- tion where the blind lead the deaf. heading helplessly for a harsh landing. side help. And willingly or not, we have liable coalition partner. So, the question landic Central Bank and ultimately Ice- But ours was not only the lethal The US-originated financial crisis was now been placed under the tutelage of remains unanswered: Who can ride in land’s tax-payer base of 220 thousand cocktail of dishonest business and just the spark that ignited the flame. In the IMF—the first “developed” nation for the rescue and stake out the road to individuals (less than a common small incompetent politics. Iceland was by the words of the renowned financial ex- since the UK in 1976 to be given that salvation? town anywhere in Europe). This was fi- design meant to become a shining expert, Willem Buiter, Iceland’s fall was treatment. Although ‘the three wise men’, in nancial madness. In the end Iceland’s ample of the neo-conservative utopia; a “not a question of if – only when”. The IMF is the watchdog of Ameri- their investigative report, gave con- tax haven for the super-rich with mini- nouveaux riche banksters proved the The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 1 — 2011 You know what would have been cool? If deCode Genetics, LazyTown, Oz.com had all worked out perfectly and we were all driving around in hydrogen fuelled cars by now. Oh, messy life. 11 vincing evidence for Alþingi to indict out privileged patronage (such as jobs, Lots Of News | Paul Nikolov News | Paul Nikolov the leaders of the Independence Party both in the public and private sectors) and the Alliance for gross mistakes and to their clientele—in return for finan- neglect of public duty (along with the cial support. The Stories That Made 2010 Central Bank directors and a few small- In the IP-case they systematically The Last Decade: What Happened? er fish), Alþingi spectacularly failed to bought votes through direct bribes SEPTEMBER follow the matter through to its logical and used their longstanding control The first decade of the millennium is Fischer was rubber-stamped Icelandic While Magma Energy conclusion. The haphazard outcome over City Hall in Reykjavík to build up over, and you know what that means - citizenship and arrived in the country and the national church was that Alþingi only indicted the hap- a vast system of patronage to maintain it’s time for some retrospection. to much fanfare. Eighteen hours later, dominated the head- less former PM, Mr. Haarde. In doing the party’s grip on power at all costs. he held a press conference where he lines, Jenis av Rana, so Alþingi forfeited what little trust Favouritism, nepotism, crony-capital- 2001 ranted about the global Jewish con- chairman of the Chris- there was left in that battered bastion. ism—all those political vices that we While this was a spiracy, and then never spoke to the tian Centrist Party of the This calls to mind the Nobel laureate normally associate with the mafia and pretty big year for media again. Faeroe Islands, told Faeroese media that for Laxness’ famous adage from ‘Iceland’s undermine the basic foundations of the just about everyone Icelandic Prime Minister in the world, things 2006 Bell’: “Cruel is their injustice, but worse rule of law—were widespread and con- Jóhanna Sigurðardóttir still is their justice.” taminating, long before the latter day were relatively calm These were the hey- to come to the Faeroe Islands with her wife banksters came to the fore and ruined here in the land of fire and ice. Except days of the Icelandic was "a defiance of the Bible." Legislators from CULPRITS-IN-CHIEF the country. that widening cracks at the bottom of economy. Everyone both countries have harshly denounced the The evidence presented in the inves- In the case of Dr. Whitehead’s book the lake Kleifarvatn in the southwest had a flatscreen TV, MP's remarks. The month finished off with tigative report overwhelmingly shows (“Soviet-Iceland: An Unfinished Revo- began to literally drain the lake of its at least two SUVs, a parliament voting in favour of charging former that the Godfathers of Iceland’s fall lution”) the author emphasises the vul- water, to the point where it reached McMansion in Mosfellsbær and wallets Prime Minister Geir H. Haarde with neglect were in fact the leaders of the twin-par- nerability and inherent weakness of the only 20% of its volume (and it’s over 90 bursting with 5.000 krónur notes. Con- and mismanagement that helped contribute to the economic collapse. He will be tried in a ties, the Independence Party and their Icelandic state, in this case in the face metres deep in parts). Iceland also be- servatives smirked, liberals grumbled. national court in 2011. junior coalition partner, the so-called of a possible communist insurgency gan its hydrogen energy program. Re- Also, municipal elections were held, Progressives. The leaders of those par- during the troubled times of the great member that? The hydrogen powered and the Progressive Party in Reykjavík OCTOBER ties, Mr. Davíð Oddsson and Mr. Hall- depression. With no army and an un- bus, the hydrogen filling station in the was accused of having paid foreign- This month started with dór Ásgrímsson, were sitting jointly at armed police force, the embryonic Ice- eastern part of town, Iceland poised ers to vote for them. The Progressives anti-government pro- the helm of coalition governments for landic state was in fact unable to defend on the brink of launching a revolution denied the allegations, which were tests from different three consecutive electoral terms, or itself against any well-organised and in how vehicles are run. Yeah. Heady never proven. Oh, also, internationally groups with different twelve years, administering the policies armed group determined to overthrow times. celebrated deCODE genetics reported goals. While the first that led up to the fall. it. over 530 million USD in losses, and that protest saw some thousands attend, subse- They were directly responsible for The fall of 2008 has mercilessly dis- 2002 they had in fact never turned a profit. quent protests featured When then Chinese the corrupting influence of the quota closed the underlying weaknesses of far lower numbers, and system; also for the privatisation of the the young Icelandic republic. Not only president Jiang Ze- 2007 would eventually peter banks á la Russe; and they were directly is it still today unable to defend itself min paid Iceland Parliamentary elec- out by the year’s end. While the government responsible for the lack of coordinated against potential outside aggressors. an official visit, the tions this year saw decided that the investigative committee on macro-economic management of the But what about enemies from within? Icelandic govern- the Conservatives Magma Energy’s sale of HS Orka had given Icelandic economy, which gave free It is for instance highly doubtful that ment wanted to be sure he had a warm and the Social Dem- the green light for the sale, a panel comprised rein to the fraudulent business practic- the (politically appointed) judiciary sys- welcome. In keeping with that, they ar- ocrats join forces, in of former committee members and Björk es that brought down the entire finan- tem is able to deal with cases of inter- rested Falun Gong protesters at Kefla- what was to be an ill-fated union that Guðmundsdóttir contended that the government could still block the sale on the ground cial system of the country. In addition national fraud, such as those that have vík airport and kept them detained at a would end halfway through its term. At of imminent domain. every media source in nearby school. They also had airports the same time, the majority coalition Mr. Oddsson, in his capacity as Central shaken the republic to its foundation, or the country except Grapevine ignored this Bank Director (appointed by himself in to bring fraudulent businessmen and across the United States block Falun in Reykjavík city hall—the Conserva- news. A Reykjavík city council proposal that 2005), is responsible for not only the fall corrupt politicians to justice. Not a sin- Gong members from boarding planes tives and the Progressives—fell apart, would ban church officials from proselytizing of the banks but also the collapse of the gle one of the oligarchs who robbed the to Iceland, the New York Times re- marking the first time a sitting majority in play schools was strongly contested by the national currency and the bankruptcy Icelandic banks from within have so far ported at the time. Wrongful arrest and in city hall didn’t finish out its term. I church, but would eventually pass. of the Central Bank to boot. been brought to justice. Many of them detention lawsuits were inevitably won, guess you could say 2007 was a portent The least Alþingi should have done, still retain control of their companies. but the move set a tone about the gov- of further deconstruction. NOVEMBER apart from indicting Mr. Haarde and Many have even been granted gener- ernment’s attitude towards protests in Paul Ramses, arguably Iceland's most famous his accomplices, was to adopt a motion ous debt-relief by the new banks (under Iceland, which would carry over many 2008 asylum seeker, an- years later. I suppose it goes of censure condemning those culprits- state supervision) under the guise of nounced that he was in-chief of the economic ruin they financial restructuring. without saying that running for president of left behind. That would have sufficed The Icelandic state, heavily indebted 2003 the economic col- Iceland. It also came to to permanently bar those individuals and having lost its credit worthiness, is In this year, cable lapse in the fall of light that the US em- from public office. And it should have utterly dependent on outside help. We television giant this year was Ice- bassy was engaging in made it mandatory for their respective need such outside help in negotiating Nickelodeon agreed land’s single biggest story. The banks, surveillance of private political parties to critically examine the terms for our debt repayment— to produce Lazy- which had swelled to many times the citizens living in the and reject their legacies. Only after do- also for rescheduling our debt and to town in Garðabær, size of the country’s GDP, fell apart. neighbourhood around the building, with some reports that security firm Securitas had ing so can those political parties ask secure access to financial markets on Iceland, putting the country on the Iceland defaulted on Icesave depos- been hired at one point to root through the map as the producers of its first ever its made by foreign clients. This time to be given another opportunity to be manageable terms. And we need help trash cans of people living on the same street trusted with public office. Trust cannot in restoring our national currency to a exported children’s show, which would around, popular protests weren’t being as the embassy. The embassy denied that it be taken for granted. It must be earned. modicum of functionality after it has become an international hit. It was held by a few “fringe” activists, but by was engaging in spying, saying that it was Instead the public has to suffer the lost all credibility, domestically as well also the year President Ólafur Ragnar thousands of Icelanders, who stood in only looking for suspicious behaviour. Contro- indignity of hearing Mr. Oddsson, in as abroad. And we need direct foreign Grímsson married Dorrit Moussaieff. front of parliament and demanded that versy arose when the Grapevine reported that his capacity as editor of the conserva- investment to harness our valuable re- The President marrying a foreigner the government step down. the Blood Bank was turning away people who tive daily, Morgunblaðið, holding up a sources of clean and renewable energy rubbed a few people the wrong way, couldn’t speak Icelandic. The strong response ceaseless tirade, blaming everybody but to generate income to pay our debts and but Dorrit was soon beloved by most 2009 this story generated led to the Blood Bank re- considering this policy. himself for the misfortune he, more restore our economy back to health. Icelandic people, and her love of Ice- The Independence land is well-known. Stórasta land í Party/Social Demo- than anyone else, is responsible for hav- DECEMBER ing brought upon his people. Through DO WE DARE? heimi! Also in this year, the privatisa- crat alliance con- Elections for the consti- his daily falsification of history, this de Looking towards the future, the key- tion of Iceland’s banks was completed, ceded power, and tutional assembly con- facto leader of the Independence Party word in formulating any solution is thereby assuring a strong and enduring emergency elections cluded, with one of the is doing his nation an even greater dis- cooperation – cooperation with friendly economy. were held. This ushered in Iceland’s lowest voter turnouts service by scaring the rank and file of neighbours in order to get us out of the first leftist government ever, comprised ever, and a general IP-loyalists from coming to grips with black hole into which we have fallen. 2004 of the now-sitting Social Democrats sense of cynicism and the party’s disreputable past. He who We are not alone in this. Other nations, The President again and the Leftist-Greens. To foreign ob- disappointment as it seemed well-known does not acknowledge his mistakes considerably more numerous than we stole the spotlight servers, the elections were more no- Icelandic figures all this year, for two table in that Jóhanna Sigurðardóttir and blames everybody else for his own are, also find themselves in such dire scored a seat, even if faults is not going to learn from those straits that they need temporary help to reasons. First off, a not only became our first female prime some of them didn’t seem to have any plat- mistakes. He is doomed to repeat them. overcome their difficulties. media bill—backed minister, but was also the first openly form at all. As WikiLeaks’ infodump of thou- Sorry. But in our case we have yet to an- by Davíð Oddsson and designed to gay head of state in modern times. sands of diplomatic cables generated world swer the basic question: Do we, despite limit how much control over the me- Few Icelanders actually cared about attention, Iceland stepped up to assist the THE ENEMIES WITHIN our setback, have the self-confidence dia a single company could have—was that point, as we were too busy talking website, with private companies offering to In two new major works of historical not only to learn from our mistakes, passed in parliament, but the president about Icesave. serve as proxies for donations, and parliament scholarship, the authors—historians but to enter into international coopera- refused to sign it. Up until this point, again voicing its support for WikiLeaks. The year concluded as it began: with Icesave. A Guðni Th. Jóhannesson and Þór White- tion as a fully fledged sovereign state, Icelandic presidents had acted more or 2010 new deal was reached between Iceland, Brit- less like figureheads, greeting foreign Does any one news head—cast the searchlight on deeply with both rights and obligations? Or are ain and Holland with much fairer terms. The rooted and longstanding weaknesses we going to continue blaming others VIPs but exercising little actual power. story sum up 2010 President hinted that he might again refuse to of the political institutions of Iceland, for our misfortunes, looking inwards This was the first time a president had better than the sign the deal into law. To which we can only since it came into existence as a sover- in sulking anger, cultivating a self- ever refused to sign a law. Subsequent- President’s veto of say “oh god please no, not more Icesave”. eign nation in 1918. In the case of Mr. imposed martyrdom, suspicious of our ly, Ólafur was re-elected president. the Icesave law and Jóhannesson’s masterful biography of neighbours and glorifying in our “he- the subsequent referendum that buried Dr. Gunnar Thoroddsen (a former IP- roic” standing alone against all comers? 2005 it? It’s doubtful. Just when we thought leader and PM) he reveals new sources This is what I have called the “Serbia Iceland kicked off we’d be able to stop hearing about Ic- for the widespread, corrupt practices of syndrome.” Is that really the example the year when the esave, the President trolls us. That’s the Independence Party (and its reflec- we want to follow? Movement for Ac- pretty much what this decade has been tion within the other dominant party, This is what the EU-issue—to join tive Democracy like—getting up, reaching for the prize, the Progressives). Those two political or not to join—is all about. It is primar- bought a full page and stumbling again. That the people parties, which between them lead coali- ily about us. Do we have full confidence of ad space in The New York Times to overwhelmingly voted to kill the law is tion governments throughout most of in our ability to cooperate with our issue an apology to the Iraqi people, a more positive testament to the coun- the last century, were both under the Nordic neighbours on an equal basis on behalf of Iceland, for the country try’s resolve. Even with our economy in thumb of special interests and system- and within the structures of European taking part in the “coalition of the will- tatters, we could—no, had to—exercise atically abused their position of power democracy, where we belong? Or do we ing.” And while the group continued to some control over our fate. That strug- and on the boards of publicly owned not dare? press for answers as to how we ended gle continues into the New Year. banks and funds to grant subsidies and up on that list in the first place, this loans on favourable terms and hand was soon drowned out by the noise that arose when chess legend Bobby MUSIC CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE IN JANUARY

Something Wicked This Way Comes Sirkús Soley Tjarnarbíó, Tjarnargata 12, 101 Reykjavík 14:00, Sunday, January 16

Sirkús Sóley is a wholesome show of slapstick acrobatics and impressive Fucking Karaoke, Motherfucker juggling that rears its jovial head every ‘Voice Of The Nation’ Karaoke Marathon once in a while when the maniacally The Nordic House, Sturlugata 5, 101 Reykjavík grinning lot of them feel like it. They Thursday, January 6 – Saturday, January 8 15:00-00:00 have performed nationwide to rave reviews and drawn impressive crowds, Iceland warms up for Christmas with its thirteen yuletide lads coming to town day and will convene for the first time this by day, and Christmas consequently lasts the thirteen days it takes the assholes to year on January 16 in Tjarnarbíó. leave town. While Christmas Eve and Christmas Day became essentially Christian There’s no telling what to holidays, the end of Christmas, ‘Þrettándinn’ (literally ‘The Thirteenth’) remains to expect from them this time, but the past this day a fairly pagan tradition, associated with fire, elves, nature and all that crap. has yielded juggling human towers, Singer/songwriter/elf Björk and her cohorts have subsequently selected massive balloons swallowing per- this day and the two days following it to organize a mass drive to get a bunch of formers whole, hoops tossed, swung, folks (that’s 35.000 folks, in case you’re wondering how many folks are in a bunch) thrown, flipped, climbed through, ro- to sign a petition that will pressure the government to restore the rights and tated and any other verb you can think ownership of Icelandic nature and natural resources to the Icelandic people. To get of, as well as all the feather tiaras you said people off their collective ass, Björk has thrown in the perfect lure, the one could ever want. This will be their last thing sure to attract attention-starved Icelanders by the droves: the ancient art of show this winter, meaning that if you karaoke. miss it, it would not only be a shame, That’s right: this weekend, you or any one of your deranged friends but kind of impractical as well. can mosey on down to the Nordic House, grab some soup, crack open a bear and SE holler any one of thousands of pop classics accompanied by a live band, a midi backing track or a programmable pipe organ. And the best part? If you have a ken- nitala, you get to sign the petition and stick it to the man in the process. SE

CD release concert 22:00 DJ Gísli Galdur English Pub Den Danske Kro Den Danske Kro 22:00 Live music 22:00 Live music & beer bingo 22:00 Live music. Sing-along night Prikið Dubliner Dubliner 21:00 The fortune teller followed by 22:00 Live music 22:00 Live music house DJ. Red wine & cheese for 2 English Pub English Pub at 1000ISK 22:00 Live music 17:00 Live music Trúnó Trúnó Esja Eva María hosts Italian night Women's Night 22:00 DJ Daddi and DJ Mastermix Faktorý 25 19 24:00 DJ Atli Kanilsnúður |TUE |WED Gerðuberg Bakkus Bakkus 12:15 Classical music for lunch 21:00 Foosball Championships 21:00 Lóa and Maísól's game night: Hressó Den Danske Kro Broomdance, limbo, baloondance 23:30 Dalton followed by DJ Fúsi 22:00 Live music and beer bingo and other birthday games you played as Kaffibarinn Dubliner a kid. Awards for every category. 22:00 Alfons X 22:00 Live music Den Danske Kro Prikið English Pub 22:00 Live music and pop-quiz night 22:00 DJ Krúsi & Þórður nikka 22:00 Live music Dubliner 22:00 Live music English Pub 22 |SAT 26 |WED 22:00 Live music B5 Bakkus Faktorý 22:00 DJ Jonas 22:00 DJ Cool in the Pool 20:00 Pub Quiz Bakkus Den Danske Kro Kaffibarinn 23:00 DJ Árni Sveins 22:00 Live music & pop-quiz 22:00 Hilmar & Hellert: Reggae Dub Boston Dubliner Session 23:00 DJ Unnur Andrea 22:00 Live music Kaffitár, Bankastræti 8 Den Danske Kro English Pub 20:00 Tango Milango. 500ISK 22:00 Live music. Sing-along night 22:00 Live music Prikið Dubliner Kaffibarinn 21:00 DJ Benni B Ruff 22:00 Live music 22:00 Extreme Chill: Introbeats, Plat, Trúnó English Pub Beatmakin Troopa, DJ AnDre 21:00 RuPaul drag race screening 22:00 Live music Kaffitár, Bankastræti 8 Esja 20:00 Tango Milango. 500ISK 20 22:00 DJ Daddi and DJ Mastermix Prikið |THU Faktorý 21:00 Rock hour with DJ Matti B5 24:00 DJ Biggi Maus Trúnó 22:00 Sjonni Brink and Hreimur Hressó 21:00 RuPaul drag race screening Bakkus 22:30 Troubadours Jogvan and Vignir 22:00 Einar Sonic followed by DJ Fannar Boston 27 Kaffibarinn |THU 22:00 Krummi Daddy's weekend # 9: Gísli Galdur & B5 Den Danske Kro Benni B Ruff 22:00 Sjonni Brink and Vignir Snær 22:00 Live music. Scandinavian night Prikið Bakkus Dubliner 22:00 DJ Danni Deluxe 22:00 Two Step Horror 22:00 Live music Boston English Pub 22:00 DJ Andrea 22:00 Live music 23 |SUN Den Danske Kro Esja Bakkus 22:00 Live music. Scandinavian night Loungy Thursday Whiskey Sunday: Wind down your Dubliner Háskólabíó weekend with discounts on whiskey 22:00 Live music 19:30 The Iceland Symphony and Guinness. English Pub Orchestra: Film Music Den Danske Kro 22:00 Live music The Icelandic Opera 22:00 Live music Esja 20:OO Ágúst Ólafsson and Gerrit Dubliner Loungy Thursday Schuil perform Schubert's Swan-song 22:00 Live music Háskólabíó Prikið English Pub 19:30 The Icelandic Symphony 21:00 DJ Jón Atli 22:00 Live music Orchestra: Dark Music Days. 3900ISK Sódóma Gerðuberg Hressó 21:00 Jimi Hendrix Tribute 13:15 Classical music for lunch 22:00 Jogvan and Vignir Troubadours 40% Thorvaldsen Prikið Kaffibarinn 22:00 Guest DJ. Mojito Thursday. 22:00 Hangover Movie Night: 22:00 Alfons X Trúnó 'What about Bob?' Free popcorn Prikið 22:00 DJ Atli 21:00 Surprise Night! Don't miss out on 24 the fun. 21 |MON Thorvaldsen |FRI Bakkus 22:00 Guest DJ. Mojito Thursday B5 21:00 Movie Night 22:00 DJ Johann Valur Den Danske Kro Bakkus 22:00 Live music 23:00 DJ Hunk of a Man Dubliner Boston 22:00 Live music Trúnó Bakkus 28 22:00 80's Night 22:00 Steini & Frikki DJ set |FRI Den Danske Kro B5 22:00 Live music and pop-quiz night ART 22:00 DJ Simon 30 |SUN Dubliner GALLERIES & MUSEUMS IN JANUARY Bakkus Bakkus 22:00 Live music 23:00 DJ KGB Whiskey Sunday: Wind down your English Pub Den Danske Kro weekend with discounts on whiskey 22:00 Live music 22:00 Live music and sing-along night and Guinness. Faktorý Dubliner Den Danske Kro 20:00 Pub Quiz Carved Coffers (on the Third Floor). Ormurinn Ógnarlangi (The Fearfully 22:00 Live music Cocktail pleasures and 22:00 Live music Kaffitár, Bankastræti 8 Visual stimulation From the collections of the National Long Worm) English Pub Dubliner 20:00 Tango Milango. 500ISK Museum Tales From Norse Mythology by Kristín 22:00 Live music 22:00 Live music Runs until August 31 Ragna Gunnarsdóttir Faktóry How to use the listings: Venues are listed English Pub January 29 Runs until March 13 24:00 DJ Benson is Fantastic 22:00 Live music 3 alphabetically by day. For complete listings The National Gallery of Iceland |THU and detailed information on venues visit Repaired (in The Corner) Esja Gerðuberg Bakkus Repaired objects from the collections of Karl Kvaran Retrospective 22:00 DJ Daddi and DJ Mastermix www.grapevine.is 13:15 Classical music for lunch 22:00 DJ Einar Sonic the National Museum Runs until February 13 Gerðuberg Hressó Den Danske Kro Runs until June 30 Nútimalist Galeria 12:15 Classical music for lunch 23:00 Dalton 22:00 Live music. Scandinavian night The Living Art Museum Photography Exhibition by Valdís Hressó Prikið Dubliner January 7, 17:30 Thor 22:30 Silfur followed by DJ Elli Hangover Movie Night: 'Judge Dredd.' 22:00 Live music OPENINGS Reykjavík Art Museum ASÍ Art Museum Ragnar Kjartansson and Ásmundur Prikið Free popcorn English Pub Ásmundsson's annual Christmas elves- Ásmundarsafn 21:00 DJ Addi Intro & Þórður nikka 22:00 Live music January 15 "I choose blossoming women..." Dual Opening: happening Faktorý January 8 Woman as Symbol in the Art of 31 21:00 Benny Crespo's Gang Installation by Ingibjörg Jónsdóttir Ásmundur Sveinsson 29 |MON Video art by Hildigunnur Birgisdóttir From the on-going audio/video series |SAT Bakkus Háskólabíó 'VIDEORHIZOME' by Marcellvs L. Sleep Light B5 Both run until February 6 21:00 Movie Night 19:30 The Iceland Symphony Runs until February 6 Lighting installation by Ráðhildur Ing- 22:00 DJ Johann Valur Bíó Paradís Den Danske Kro Orchestra: War and Peace January 15, 18:00 adóttir Bakkus January 11, 21:00 22:00 Live music Thorvaldsen Marcus Steinweg talks: 'Obscurantism Thoughts In Forms 23:00 DJ Öfull Kinoklúbbur film society presents: Dubliner 22:00 Guest DJ. Mojito Thursday Of Facts' Informative recreation of Ásmundur Boston Maya Deren on 16mm. 600 ISK 22:00 Live music January 17, 18:00 Jónsson's art studio 22:00 De La Rósa Hafnarborg English Pub Marcus Steinweg talks: 'On Philosophy Hafnarhús Den Danske Kro January 8 22:00 Live music & Art' D18 22:00 Live music and sing-along night Dual opening: Prikið ONGOING January 20, 16:00 Exhibits by Bjarni Massi Dubliner Fragments Of Nature: Eiríkur Smith's 21:00 The fortune teller followed by Restaurant Reykjavík Marcus Steinweg talks: 'Between Form Runs until January 9 22:00 Live music abstract paintings 1957-1963 the house DJ. Redwine 20:00 Let's Talk Iceland: Comedy Show. & Formlessness' Erró: Collage English Pub & cheese for 2 at 1000ISK 2200ISK. Everyday Kjarvals: Stefán Jónsson's 3D Power has a Fragrance 22:00 Live music reworkings of Jóhannes Kjarval's Now offering Iðnó Exhibitions by Gardar Eide Einarsson Esja 1 Cellophane Comedy show landscape paintings Runs until January 9 22:00 DJ Daddi and DJ Mastermix |TUE 20:00 Sundays and Thursdays Both run until February 6 ONGOING Kjarvalstaðir Hressó Den Danske Kro January 9, 15:00 Kjarval: Key Works catering service! Artótek 22:30 Mars followed by DJ Elli 22:00 Live music & beer bingo Guided tour of exhibition 'Kjarvals' by Exhibition of works by Hildur Mar- Runs until January 16 Kaffibarinn Dubliner artist Stefán Jónsson grétardóttir Exhibit of paintings by Jóhannes S. 22:00 DJ KGB 22:00 Live music January 23, 14:00 Runs until January 16 Kjarval Prikið English Pub Children's art workshop Gallery Kaolin Runs until January 23 22:00 DJ Árni Kocoon 22:00 Live music January 30, 15:00 Óráð/Delirium New Acquisitions 2005-2010 Sódóma Guided tour of exhibition 'Fragments Of Ink drawings and prints by Þórður Exhibition of some of the 800 new art 22:00 Brian Viglione (The Dresden Nature' by Ólöf K. Sigurðardóttir Grímsson acquisitions collected during the past Dolls) and Vika Yermolyeva 2 Garður, Sunnubraut 4, Reykjanes |WED Runs until January 17 five years January 7, 13:00 Why Collect Artworks? Fresh Winds International Art Gerðuberg Dægradvöl (Pastimes) Open workshop Festival Runs until January 23 Runs until January 23 Ágúst Jónsson's abstract paintings on display Reykjavík Museum Of Photography Kling & Bang Sjónarhorn (Angles) An Appeal To January 15 Runs until January 9 Það Vex Eitt Blóm Fyrir Vestan (A Photographs by Wayne Gudmundson Mundi-Morri-Ragnar Fjalar Runs until January 9 Geekery MoMS Penetration Installation Flower Grows In The West) Watercolours and other paintings by SÍM Húsið Open: Leikjavík Runs until February 13 Paintings by Guðlaug Dröfn The National Museum Svava Sigríður Gestsdóttir Mondays-Saturdays 11:30-22:30 Runs until January 16 Gunnarsdóttir January 9 Runs until January 26 The Mývatn Photographer (Main Gal- Hávamál Sundays 16:00-22:00 Illustrations by Kristín Ragna Gunnars- Spark Design Space Leikjavík is the “clever” name of a lery & The Wall) Gjöf / Gift Early 20th century photography by dóttir from Þórarinn Eldjárn's retelling of humble establishment tucked away Runs until January 15 Bárður Sigurðsson (1872-1937) Snorri Sturluson's book between some apartments near the January 15 Runs until January 16 the best thai food northern end of Barónsstígur. It actually shares the space with an Indian- year 2009 and 2010 themed hobby store whose window Headbanging Over A Piano dressings completely obscure the place Vika Yermoleva & Brian Viglione Sódóma Reykjavík, Tryggvagata 22, 101 Reykjavík tel : 55-22-444, 692-0564 from the street, making it a bit hard to January 29, 22:00 find, but in any case, go there, find it, there are a lot of positive and donate. Viktoriya ‘Vika’ Yermoleva is a 32-year old classically educated pianist who hails from Ukraine. reviews about.. Leikjavík is, for lack of a better She plays, for the most part, piano versions of contemporary metal songs, and by contemporary, term, a board game parlour. They have we mean the kind-of-cheesy, wish-you-couldn’t-still-remember-all-the-words-to kind of teen plenty of their own games, including anthems that were blasted out of car stereos everywhere in their time. We’re talking Metallica well-worn favourites (Scrabble, Chess, here. And Queen. And Motörhead. And yeah, Nirvana. We’re talking System Of A fucking Down. Pictionary) as well as newcomers that And Muse and Guns’N’Roses and Slayer. Oh boy, are we talking Slayer. To top it all off, she’s accompanied by Dresden Dolls drummer Brian Viglione in all his hyperactive glory, so bring booze. should and must be tried out (Blokus, 29 authentic thai crusine Jan And a towel. Small World, Risk 2210 A.D.), but if served in elegant surroundings board game, so at least do it for the So at least try it. The worst that SE with spicy, very delicious and that’s not enough, you can always bring street cred. Third, if you’re reading this, could happen? You get your ass reasonable prices. your own. They also have snacks and chances are you’re foreign, and for handed to you at Catan by a scrawny soft drinks on hand, or again, you could some bizarre reason, foreigners tend to 14-year-old in a bad shirt, but everyone Art | Venue finder www.thaimatur.com just bring your own. It’s free, but you congregate there. I don’t know why, but needs that experience once in a while. can donate as much as you want. the ratio of foreigners-to-locals there DO IT. ART67 Reykjavík 871+/-2

open hours 18.00 - 22.00 evey day And why am I telling you this? First always seems to be at about five to one. SE Laugavegur 67 | F6 Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Aðalstræti 17 | D2 of all, the board game industry has Subsequently, Icelanders will be Mon - Fri 12 - 18 / Sat Gerðuberg 3-5 Open daily 10–17 Mon–Thu 11–17 / Wed 11–21 / Thu–Fri 11–17 / also try.... become insanely creative and innova- 12 - 16 Reykjavík Art Gallery forced to speak English and you might When: Tuesdays – Fridays from 19:00 to Sat–Sun 13–16 Artótek Skúlagata 28 | F6 tive of late, and bears notice from even actually get to know some of them. 23:00, Saturdays & Sundays from 15:00 www.gerduberg.is the most casual observer; go there to Tryggvagata 15 | D2 Tuesday through Sunday 14–18 And lastly: if they don’t get a shitload to 23:00 Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu 10–19, Fri 11–19, Sat and sample it. Second, geekdom is pretty Hitt Húsið Reykjavík Art Museum of business this month, they won’t be Sun 13–17 – Gallery Tukt Open daily 10–16 much the height of fashion these days, there anymore next month, as the city Where: Barónsstígur 3, 101 Reykjavík www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/Artotek Pósthússtræti 3-5 | E3 www.listasafnreykjavikur.is www.hitthusid.is and it doesn’t get any geekier than a will cut off their funding. ASÍ Art Museum Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Museum Freyugata 41 | G4 i8 Gallery Sigtún Tue–Sun 13–17 Tryggvagata 16 | D2 Árbæjarsafn Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat 13–17 and by appointment. Hafnarhús www.i8.is Je Suis Un Cerf Cardiaque Kistuhylur 4 Tryggvagata 17 | D2 French Film Festival The Culture House Living Art Museum Kjarvalsstaðir Hverfisgata 15 | E4 Skúlagata 28 | F6 Flókagata | I7 21-3 Háskólabíó, Hagatorg, 107 Reykjavík Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 / Thu 13–22. www.nylo.is Jan -Feb Open daily 11–17 Reykjavík Maritime Museum January 21-February 3 www.thjodmenning.is Hafnarborg Grandagarður 8 | C3 Strandgötu 34, Dwarf Gallery Reykjavík Museum of Photography Reykjavik Museum of Photography Hafnarfjörður Grundarstígur 21 | H6 Tryggvagata 16 | D2 Háskólabíó’s annual winter tradition Opening Hours: Fri and Sat 18–20 Mokka Kaffi Weekdays 12–19 / Sat–Sun 13–17 - www.ljos- www.this.is/birta/dwarfgallery/dwarfgallery1.html 30th Anniversary 2011 of showing us the latest of France and Skólavörðustíg 3A | F4 myndasafnreykjavikur.is The Einar Jónsson Exhibitions all year round (French-speaking) Canada’s worthy The National Gallery of Iceland Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Eiriksgata | G4 Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | F3 Laugarnestangi 70 contributions to cinema continues this Tue–Sun 14–17 ADMISSION FREE Tue–Sun 11–17 month, with choice picks including a www.skulptur.is www.listasafn.is SÍM, The Association of Icelandic Artists special showing of Godard’s ‘Á bout de The National Mon-Fri 10-16 Gallery Ágúst souffle’ and ‘Les aventures extraordi- Museum Hafnarstræti 16 | D3 Baldursgata 12 | F4 Suðurgata 41 | G1 Spark, Design Space naires d’Adéle Blanc-Sec’, Luc Besson’s Wed–Sat 12–17 Open daily 10–17 Klapparstíg 33 | E4 anticipated adaptation of Jacques www.galleriagust.is natmus.is www.sparkdesignspace.com Tardi’s gorgeous gothic-noir comic Gallery Fold The Nordic House books. Be sure to check out much- Rauðarástígur 14-16 | G7 Sturlugata 5 | H1 Mon–Fri 10–18 / Sat 11–16 / Sun 14–16 lauded culture clash flicks ‘Welcome’ Tue–Sun 12–17 www.myndlist.is www.nordice.is/ and ‘Ce Qu’il Faut Pour Vivre’, as well as Gallery Kaolin GRÓFARHÚS 6th floor actor-turned-director Guillame Canet’s Nútimalist Galleria Tryggvagata 15, 101 Reykjavik latest offering, ‘Les Petits Mouchoirs’. Ingólfsstræti 8 | E3 Skólavörðustígur 3a | F4 Opening hours: SE Gallery Kling & Bang Restaurant Reykjavík 12–19 mon–fri, 13–17 weekends Hverfisgata 42 | E5 Vesturgata 2 | D2 www.photomuseum.is Thurs–Sun from 14–18 this.is/klingogbang/ ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS IN JANUARY

Cocktail pleasures and Carved Coffers (on the Third Floor). Ormurinn Ógnarlangi (The Fearfully Visual stimulation From the collections of the National Long Worm) Museum Tales From Norse Mythology by Kristín Runs until August 31 Ragna Gunnarsdóttir How to use the listings: Venues are listed Runs until March 13 alphabetically by day. For complete listings January 29 Repaired (in The Corner) The National Gallery of Iceland and detailed information on venues visit Karl Kvaran Retrospective www.grapevine.is Repaired objects from the collections of the National Museum Runs until February 13 Runs until June 30 Nútimalist Galeria The Living Art Museum Photography Exhibition by Valdís January 7, 17:30 Thor OPENINGS Reykjavík Art Museum ASÍ Art Museum Ragnar Kjartansson and Ásmundur Ásmundsson's annual Christmas elves- Ásmundarsafn January 15 "I choose blossoming women..." Dual Opening: happening January 8 Woman as Symbol in the Art of Installation by Ingibjörg Jónsdóttir Ásmundur Sveinsson Video art by Hildigunnur Birgisdóttir From the on-going audio/video series 'VIDEORHIZOME' by Marcellvs L. Sleep Light Both run until February 6 Lighting installation by Ráðhildur Ing- Bíó Paradís Runs until February 6 January 15, 18:00 adóttir January 11, 21:00 Thoughts In Forms Kinoklúbbur film society presents: Marcus Steinweg talks: 'Obscurantism Of Facts' Informative recreation of Ásmundur Maya Deren on 16mm. 600 ISK Jónsson's art studio Hafnarborg January 17, 18:00 Marcus Steinweg talks: 'On Philosophy Hafnarhús January 8 D18 Dual opening: & Art' January 20, 16:00 Exhibits by Bjarni Massi Fragments Of Nature: Eiríkur Smith's Runs until January 9 abstract paintings 1957-1963 Marcus Steinweg talks: 'Between Form & Formlessness' Erró: Collage Kjarvals: Stefán Jónsson's 3D Power has a Fragrance reworkings of Jóhannes Kjarval's Now offering Exhibitions by Gardar Eide Einarsson landscape paintings Runs until January 9 Both run until February 6 ONGOING Kjarvalstaðir January 9, 15:00 Kjarval: Key Works catering service! Guided tour of exhibition 'Kjarvals' by Artótek Exhibition of works by Hildur Mar- Runs until January 16 artist Stefán Jónsson Exhibit of paintings by Jóhannes S. January 23, 14:00 grétardóttir Runs until January 16 Kjarval Children's art workshop Runs until January 23 January 30, 15:00 Gallery Kaolin Óráð/Delirium New Acquisitions 2005-2010 Guided tour of exhibition 'Fragments Of Exhibition of some of the 800 new art Nature' by Ólöf K. Sigurðardóttir Ink drawings and prints by Þórður Grímsson acquisitions collected during the past Garður, Sunnubraut 4, Reykjanes five years January 7, 13:00 Runs until January 17 Gerðuberg Why Collect Artworks? Fresh Winds International Art Open workshop Festival Dægradvöl (Pastimes) Ágúst Jónsson's abstract paintings on Runs until January 23 Runs until January 23 Reykjavík Museum Of Photography Kling & Bang display Runs until January 9 Sjónarhorn (Angles) January 15 Photographs by Wayne Gudmundson Mundi-Morri-Ragnar Fjalar Það Vex Eitt Blóm Fyrir Vestan (A Flower Grows In The West) Runs until January 9 MoMS Penetration Installation SÍM Húsið Open: Runs until February 13 Watercolours and other paintings by Svava Sigríður Gestsdóttir Paintings by Guðlaug Dröfn The National Museum Gunnarsdóttir Mondays-Saturdays 11:30-22:30 January 9 Runs until January 16 Hávamál Runs until January 26 Sundays 16:00-22:00 The Mývatn Photographer (Main Gal- Spark Design Space lery & The Wall) Illustrations by Kristín Ragna Gunnars- dóttir from Þórarinn Eldjárn's retelling of Gjöf / Gift Early 20th century photography by Runs until January 15 Bárður Sigurðsson (1872-1937) Snorri Sturluson's book January 15 Runs until January 16

Headbanging Over A Piano Vika Yermoleva & Brian Viglione Sódóma Reykjavík, Tryggvagata 22, 101 Reykjavík January 29, 22:00

Viktoriya ‘Vika’ Yermoleva is a 32-year old classically educated pianist who hails from Ukraine. She plays, for the most part, piano versions of contemporary metal songs, and by contemporary, we mean the kind-of-cheesy, wish-you-couldn’t-still-remember-all-the-words-to kind of teen anthems that were blasted out of car stereos everywhere in their time. We’re talking Metallica here. And Queen. And Motörhead. And yeah, Nirvana. We’re talking System Of A fucking Down. And Muse and Guns’N’Roses and Slayer. Oh boy, are we talking Slayer. To top it all off, she’s ac- 29 companied by Dresden Dolls drummer Brian Viglione in all his hyperactive glory, so bring booze. Jan And a towel. SE

Art | Venue finder

ART67 Reykjavík 871+/-2 Laugavegur 67 | F6 Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Aðalstræti 17 | D2 Mon - Fri 12 - 18 / Sat Gerðuberg 3-5 Open daily 10–17 Mon–Thu 11–17 / Wed 11–21 / Thu–Fri 11–17 / 12 - 16 Reykjavík Art Gallery Sat–Sun 13–16 Artótek Skúlagata 28 | F6 www.gerduberg.is Tryggvagata 15 | D2 Tuesday through Sunday 14–18 Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu 10–19, Fri 11–19, Sat and Hitt Húsið Reykjavík Art Museum Sun 13–17 – Gallery Tukt Open daily 10–16 www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/Artotek Pósthússtræti 3-5 | E3 www.listasafnreykjavikur.is www.hitthusid.is ASÍ Art Museum Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Museum Freyugata 41 | G4 i8 Gallery Sigtún Tue–Sun 13–17 Tryggvagata 16 | D2 Árbæjarsafn Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat 13–17 and by appointment. Hafnarhús www.i8.is Kistuhylur 4 Tryggvagata 17 | D2 The Culture House Living Art Museum Kjarvalsstaðir Hverfisgata 15 | E4 Skúlagata 28 | F6 Flókagata | I7 Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 / Thu 13–22. www.nylo.is Open daily 11–17 Reykjavík Maritime Museum www.thjodmenning.is Hafnarborg Grandagarður 8 | C3 Strandgötu 34, Dwarf Gallery Reykjavík Museum of Photography Hafnarfjörður Grundarstígur 21 | H6 Tryggvagata 16 | D2 Opening Hours: Fri and Sat 18–20 Mokka Kaffi Weekdays 12–19 / Sat–Sun 13–17 - www.ljos- www.this.is/birta/dwarfgallery/dwarfgallery1.html Skólavörðustíg 3A | F4 myndasafnreykjavikur.is The Einar Jónsson The National Gallery of Iceland Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Eiriksgata | G4 Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | F3 Laugarnestangi 70 Tue–Sun 14–17 Tue–Sun 11–17 www.skulptur.is www.listasafn.is SÍM, The Association of Icelandic Artists The National Mon-Fri 10-16 Gallery Ágúst Museum Hafnarstræti 16 | D3 Baldursgata 12 | F4 Suðurgata 41 | G1 Spark, Design Space Wed–Sat 12–17 Open daily 10–17 Klapparstíg 33 | E4 www.galleriagust.is natmus.is www.sparkdesignspace.com Gallery Fold The Nordic House Rauðarástígur 14-16 | G7 Sturlugata 5 | H1 Mon–Fri 10–18 / Sat 11–16 / Sun 14–16 Tue–Sun 12–17 www.myndlist.is www.nordice.is/

Gallery Kaolin Nútimalist Galleria Ingólfsstræti 8 | E3 Skólavörðustígur 3a | F4

Gallery Kling & Bang Restaurant Reykjavík Hverfisgata 42 | E5 Vesturgata 2 | D2 Thurs–Sun from 14–18 this.is/klingogbang/ Central Reykjavík ct FAXA FLÓI

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UR 1 2 3 4 5 GARÐ ANDA e FishpackingGR Distri Maritime HAPPY NEW ThMuseum MAP Th MAP e YEAR!!! Old Harbour Old Places We Like A Depart for whale and puffin Harbou T watching tours from the old r US harbour, a lively area, offering 1 C is for CookieÁNANA an assortment of restaurants and activity centres FROM Týsgata 8 MÝR ARGA T 18 This cosy new café owned by Polish couple NÝL A YOUR ENDUG Old Agnieszka and Stanislaw is the latest Harbour addition to the Reykjavik café scene and ATA Area SVEGUR FRIENDS already looks set to becomeNE a favourite FRAM with the locals. Ideal for an early lunch or URR ÍG ÁNA VEST B RG Future AT spending a lazy afternoon deciding which AT URGA GEIR ARST A Concert of Agnieszka's delicious home baked BÁRU TA SG Hall GA ATA cakes you want to try next. I'd go withBORG the TA A Reykjavík THE AT cheescake, its pretty fabulous. EF RA ÖL D Art ÆÐ UGA SG I Museum BR TA ÆT 14 ÆGI 11 GRAPEVINE! Main TR 2 Havarí Tourist YGGV 6 ASTR Down Info AG Ð ATA Austurstræti 8 R Ta xi 2 Town GA HAFNAR Even before it opened, Havarí was I S SÆBR D TÚNG A ST KÚLA ATA ÆT US RÆTI R TUR everybody’s favourite new music and T ST The GA AU S RÆ 10 TI Culture TA T design store. Headed by Svavar Pétur and AL Austur I National AÐ völlur T House Berglind of Skakkamanage, the shopTA shills Park Theatre K RÆ GA IRK UR the musical goods of Kimi Records, Borgin JUST BANK LIN AUT RÆ HVE ÍG DARGA Skyline SÆBR ALLA TI TA T Hljómplötur, gogoyoko and Skakkapopp as STH.ST A Icelandic A ST RF S TA Ó RÆ IS Vesturbæjar P G Parliament RG ATA AR well as posters, art, designHOFSV products and SÓLV I TI 15 17 Swimming JA 9 “Financial A K PP clothing. CFPool LL ÆT I AG T R LA ATA LÆ T 16 ÍGUR Æ K District” A SS ST AT Lauga A LT TI 3 8 NS SSTR T HR E AT City vegur A N Ta xi RÆR 1 7 V BORGARTÚ INGB ÐURG RG Hall ÓL ST GLaÓLF ugavegur SU R Up ÞINGHO NG 3 Trúnó RA IN RNA Reykjavík’s main shopping ÐA SK U A T and culture street, featuring TJ TA ÓLA To5 wn HVE The Laugavegur 22 a wide range of bars, bistros, RF Tower GUR ISG cafes and restaurants. V ATA EGUR ERGS ÖR Located just below Barbara, Trúnó is the VE B ÍGUR LA A Ð T

City ÁS UG USTÍGU most recent addition to Reykjavík's straight- ATA AV KJUV AS

Pond UF GRE EG ÚN G UR SK IR S TT ÚL friendly gay scene and swings between cosy KK AT LA ISG AG ÍK IN A AT ATA R 13 café by day and lively bar by night. Generally ÞÓRSG A Hlemmur NÓ FR FR ÍGUR ÓÐ UT Bus National ST relaxed atmosphere but given to hosting ÍGUR West RA A Terminal F Gallery ATA special events and spinning the drinks ST Side of Iceland 4 VIT AB wheel. AK LUR NJ RR E ÁLSG HÁ A TÚN IM AT AT NO Ê A BARÓNS S Ta xi Laugardals RK Hallgríms BERGÞ BI Swimming BALDURSG kirkja ÓRUG Pool Church ATA LAU SÓLE G 4 Vitabar A TA BRAUTARHOLT AV AT TÍGUR EG AG ARGA UR YJ AG RS BR ARÐ Bergþórugata 21 ARGA The Einar NJ RÁ Jónsson Sundhöllin ÐA Museum U Located on the corner of Vitastígur and TA Swimming S AG K Bergþórugata, Vitabar (Lighthouse bar) is University Pool RA IPHOL AT SKI of Iceland GUR PHOL the place to go when you're in the mood for BERG SSTÍ Hljómskáli T T EI ÐURG RÓN ÚN a slightly soppy yet delicious burger served Park ST R BA ÍK SU University HR AÐ East AT up with thick French fries and a little of SG of Iceland INGB ARSTR AT UT NÓ that local pub feeling. In addition to their Park L T RA A RA Side AUFÁ legendary Gleym-mér-ei (Forget-me-not) UT Æ AU TI AB SV BR blue-cheese burger, they do steaks, egg RR EGUR HÁ burgers, beer and schnapps. Good service, NO TEIGS S NARS V fair prices. AK EGUR H GUN Miklatún Nordic House ÍGUR Park Culture Center FLÓKA VA TNSM ÁRST GA R TA 5 Svarta Kaffi ÝRAR VEGUR ÐA GAML Kjarvalsstaðir ATA A HR AU Laugavegur 54 R National BSÍ INGBR Museum ARG AUT If you're looking for a hearty, warming lunch RÐ Coach UT A Terminal at good value then head down to this cosy NJ RA

Ð RB café for a bowl of their yummy soup. Doing A HR LÍ ÝR away with dishes and bowls, the soup comes IN AH I GB RA UM served in a hollowed out loaf of wholewheat NG UT B bread, and the best bit is that it’s refillable if LA ÓLS TAÐ INGL you’re still hungry. Sweet! And, when you’re MIK ARHLÍÐ LABR KR done you can enjoy some people watching on AU Reykjavík T Kringlan Laugavegur below. EF Domestic Shopping Airport Center Ë Ì

6 We’ve Got Your Habibi 7 Eymundsson 8 Boston 9 Hemmi & Valdi Steaming Hot Hafnarstræti 18 Skólavörðustígur 11, Laugavegur 28 Laugavegur 21 This small restaurant offers up a concise Eymundsson is a chain with several outlets Like an older sibling to the fabled (now The “colonial store” Hemmi and Valdi was Grapevine T-shirt menu of delicious Arabic cuisine, from but the one on Skólavörðustígur is the best deceased) Sirkús, Boston is a warm and probably 2008’s most surprising crowd shawarma to kebabs and falafels. The in town. Housed on the ground floor of what mellow second-floor bar on Laugavegur pleaser. The cosy hangout advanced from Right Here! staff is really friendly and accommodating was once a Spron Credit Union, the building that plays host to the arty party crowd. being a toasty retreat, where you could of requests to kick up the spiciness or has a solid institutional feeling—cosy if that’s The baroque wall dressings and deep, rich get cheap beer and have a quiet chat, into -Impress your friends! tone it down if the customer so desires. your bag. The premises are equipped with coloured décor make this bar feel pretty being a chock-full concert venue and an all- -Pick up men, women or both! Habibi seriously hits the spot after hours -Show off your impeccable tastes! a coffee shop, tables and sofas to lounge in swank, but the mood of the place can go night party place. And believe me, the new of partying (or any other time of day) so -Make friends and influence people! and the all-glass exterior lets in a lot of light, from great to legendary within a heartbeat. atmosphere is brilliant. SKK it’s convenient that the place is allegedly -Pledge your undying allegiance to The which is good for reading real books, not CF Grapevine! open until 6 a.m. Friday and Saturday facebooks. This Eymundsson also regularly -Cover your torso in style! (although their advertised opening hours hosts book readings, signings and other small -Support your local alt.magazine! are sometimes not adhered to). CF -Buy tourist merch that’s less obviously events such as concerts and art exhibitions, touristy! organized in a pleasantly spontaneous and laid back way. AK Yes, The Reykjavík Grapevine finally has a T-shirt all of its own. Pick up a copy of this sweet, limited edition item at Havarí on Austurstræti or Dogma on Laugavegur – 101 Reykjavík. And do it now. For the children. Central Reykjavík ct FAXA FLÓI

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UR ARÐ 6 7 8 9 10 G 13 Kaffismiðja Íslands ANDA e FishpackingGR Distri Kárastíg 1 Maritime For a map of outside downtown Reykjavík Old fashioned charm is the style of ThMuseum visit www.grapevine.is or the Icelandic Kaddismiðja, in everything from the decor to The phonebook website www.ja.is the coffee grinders. Off the beaten track, this Old Harbour Old popular coffee shop is a great spot to sit and Depart for whale and puffin Harbou read or have a chat with friends. The owners T watching tours from the old r US harbour, a lively area, offering Ingbjörg and Sonja take great pride in the If you have an iPhone, check out the cool an assortment of restaurants beans they use and the coffee is top notch. ÁNANA Locatify app in the AppStore. It´s got a FREE MÝR and activity centres You can buy fresh grounds too, in case you guided audio tour of the downtown area, ARGA just cant get enough. EF courtesy of your pals at Grapevine. TA NÝLENDUG Old Harbour ATA Area SVEGUR NE FRAM URR ÍG ÁNA VEST RG Future 14 AT URGA GEIR Kolaportið ARST A Concert BÁRU TA SG Hall GA ATA Tryggvagata 19 BORG TA A Reykjavík RA ÖL AT Reykjavík’s massive flea market is a D Art ÆÐ UGA SG I Museum wonderful place to get lost for a few hours, BR TA ÆGI ÆT Main TR rummaging through stall upon stall of YGGV Tourist potential treasures. There are heaps of used ASTR Down Info AG Ð ATA clothing, knitwear and other yard-sale type R Ta xi Town goods from decades of yore, and a large GA HAFNAR I S SÆBR TÚNG A ST KÚLA food section with fish, meats and baked ATA ÆT US RÆTI R TUR T ST The goods. Check out the vintage post cards and S RÆ GA AU TI Culture TA T AL Austur prints at the table near the army surplus. CF I National AÐ völlur T House TA Park Theatre K RÆ GA IRK UR JUST BANK LIN AUT RÆ HVE ÍG DARGA Skyline SÆBR ALLA TI TA T STH.ST A Icelandic A ST RF S TA Ó RÆ IS P G Vesturbæjar RG ATA HOFSV SÓLV Parliament I TI AR Swimming JA “Financial A K PP Pool LL ÆT I AG T R LA ATA LÆ T ÍGUR Æ K District” A ST SS 15 Sushibarinn AT Lauga A LT TI NS SSTR T HR AT City vegur A N Ta xi RÆR V BORGARTÚ Laugavegur 2 INGB ÐURG RG Hall ÓL ST GLaÓLF ugavegur SU R Up ÞINGHO NG RA IN RNA Reykjavík’s main shopping Sushibarinn is reputedly the best bet for sushi ÐA SK U A T and culture street, featuring in town since it opened in 2007. This little TJ TA ÓLA Town HVE The a wide range of bars, bistros, RF Tower GUR ISG shop is the most authentic option for sushi in cafes and restaurants. V ATA EGUR ERGS ÖR VE B ÍGUR LA town, with the widest selection around. The A Ð T

City ÁS UG USTÍGU ATA AV price per piece ranges from around 140ISK KJUV AS

Pond UF GRE EG ÚN G UR SK IR S TT ÚL KK AT LA ISG AG to 600 ISK, and they also have good choice of ÍK IN A AT ATA R A ÞÓRSG Hlemmur NÓ trays and set menus options. If you can’t get FR FR ÍGUR ÓÐ UT Bus National ST ÍGUR a set, you can also order from Kofí Tómasar West RA A Terminal Gallery ATA ST AB 12 next door and grab a seat there. EF Side of Iceland VIT LUR NJ RR E ÁLSG HÁ A TÚN IM AT AT NO Ê A BARÓNS S Ta xi Laugardals RK Hallgríms BERGÞ BI Swimming BALDURSG kirkja ÓRUG Pool Church ATA LAU SÓLE G A TA BRAUTARHOLT AV AT TÍGUR EG AG ARGA UR YJ AG RS BR ARÐ 16 Grænn Kostur ARGA The Einar NJ RÁ Jónsson Sundhöllin ÐA Skólavörðustíg 8b Museum U TA Swimming S A K University Pool RA IPHOL AT SKI Serving healthy organic vegan and of Iceland GUR PHOL BERG SSTÍ vegetarian food for well over a decade, Hljómskáli T T EI ÐURG RÓN ÚN Park ST R BA Grænn Kostur is the perfect downtown ÍK SU University HR AÐ East AT SG choice for enjoying light, wholesome and of Iceland INGB ARSTR AT UT NÓ Park L T inexpensive meals. Try any of their courses RA A RA Side AUFÁ UT Æ AU of the day, or go for the ever-pleasing TI AB SV BR RR spinach lasagne. EGUR HÁ NO TEIGS S NARS VEGUR GUN Miklatún Nordic House ÍGUR Park Culture Center FLÓKA VA 17 Kisan TNSM ÁRST GA R TA ÝRAR VEGUR ÐA Laugavegur 7 GAML Kjarvalsstaðir ATA A HR AU National BSÍ INGBR R Museum This store is incredibly cool. It’s stocked with ARG AUT RÐ Coach UT really unique and quirky clothes, outerwear, A Terminal NJ RA accessories and handbags, plus they have

Ð RB A an adorable section of kids clothes, kitschy HR LÍ ÝR vintage toys and books and even interior IN AH GB RA UM design items. Wicked place; definitely worth UT NG B LA ÓLS a visit. CF TAÐ INGL MIK AR LA HLÍÐ KR BRAU Reykjavík T Kringlan Domestic Shopping Airport Center Ë Ì

10 Hressó 11 Bakkus 12 Mai Thai 18 Café d'Haiti Austurstræti 20 Tryggvagata 22 – Naustarmegin Laugavegur 118 Geirsgötu 7b / Verbúð 2 You know, Hressó is basically the only place Bakkus serves up reasonably priced beer, a Located across from Hlemmur Bus Station, The first time I entered this exotic little I go for coffee. Why? Their coffee is decent really impressive selection of international Mai Thai imports and sells all sorts of joint, meaning to buy myself a take-away to excellent, but their forte is surely their vodkas and an atmosphere unlike any other products from South East Asia, particularly espresso, I ended up with two kilos of wonderful patio, where you can enjoy the in town. An eclectic mix of patrons, regular Thailand and the Philippines. Depending freshly roasted coffee beans due to some spring breeze in the sun, wrap yourself live music and movie nights keep this place on the day, you might find fresh coriander, language complications and way too much in a blanket beneath an electric heater in interesting and always inviting. Expect mint, chilies, bean sprouts, exotic fruits politeness. Since then I have enjoyed January and at all times: smoke. They boast dancing on tables and to-the-death foosball such as Durian, Carambola or Coconut, as probably way-too-many wonderful cups of of quite the prolific menu, but I’d reconsider battles. CF well as year round products such as frozen Haitian coffee, but they’re always as nice, the playlists to tell you the truth, too much spring rolls, various kinds of rice sold in so the two kilos were definitely worth it. SKK of Nickelback really hurts. SKK bulk bags, sauces and spices galore, egg and rice noodles, Asian snacks, clothes and other knick-knacks. In short, a wide array of what are still considered rare delicacies in Reykjavík. AK 15  Jan 

MoMS at Gallery Kling and Bang Gallery Kling & Bang January 15 (hopefully) Free

‘Penetration/Innsetning/Installation’ is the latest realization by MoMS, a group of four young male artists who have been working together since 2007 and have been incredibly prolific despite their young age. Comprised of local fashion design legend Mundi and his art school friends Frikki, Morri, Schuyler and the more recent addition Ragnar Fjalar, as well as often collaborating with other friends and artists, MoMS is known for its over the top installations and performances. These have included building a 6.000 litre fish tank in NASA, flying a giant balloon worm over the Venice Biennale, participating in the recreation of Sirkús at an art fair in London and being pissed on at a performance called 'cum and piss.' ‘Penetration/Innsetning/Installation’ will consist of various 'overkill' drawings and sculptures inspired by the five Platonic solids. MoMs will make use of all kinds of materials and techniques, such as collage, photography, photocopies, newspapers, colouring crayons, stickers and erasers. The show will surely engage in the exces- siveness exuberance that distinguishes MoMS. AK

 Films | Haukur Viðar Alfreðsson    The Good, The Bad And

 The Disqualified:   The greatest Icelandic films of the decade

The decade has ended and it was disturbance in The Force. Top-notch  a great one for Icelandic filmmak- performances from a great cast, and  ing. More people are making mov- director Árni Ásgeirsson is clearly des- ies and becoming better at making tined for greatness. them. Choosing the five best films of Tour Operator  2001-2011 was everything but easy. 3) ‘Brúðguminn’ [2008] Environmental Award Icelandic Tourist Board After days of painful brainstorming Directed by Baltasar Kormákur EarthCheck  SILVER CERTIFIED  2009 and internal debate, I chose five films that I consider the best of the decade. Jón (Hilmir Snær Guðnason) is a Of course, my top film was released middle-aged philosophy teacher who is in late 2000 (a discovery made three just about to marry one of his students. seconds before sending the article) and His first wife was a mental patient and therefore automatically disqualified. I'm eventually committed suicide. ‘Brúðgu- forced to add a new film to the Top five. minn’ tells two parallel stories about the I present to you: same man, on the same remote island (where the wedding is to take place) QUALITY TIME IN THE 5) ‘Astrópía’ [2007] but with two different women, his wife Directed by Gunnar B. Guðmunds- (past) and his wife-to-be (present). HEART OF THE CITY son Some might see that as an overused One of Reykjavik’s finest, the chic 1919 Restaurant storytelling gimmick, but Baltasar does features top international and neo-Nordic cuisine. Gunnar Guðmundsson's directorial this extremely well and Brúðguminn is The trendy 1919 Lounge provides a variety of debut is a respectful ode to geeks arguably his best picture. cocktails and the perfect atmosphere for you to relax and role-play. TV-personality/actress in and enjoy timeless luxury. Ragnhildur Steinunn plays Hildur, a fun-loving girl whose boyfriend gets 2) Reykjavík-Rotterdam [2008] arrested. Hildur needs to find a job and Directed by Óskar Jónasson starts working at a comic book store. This wonderful film shifts back and A solid entry in the thriller-genre and forth between mundane everyday life probably the only Icelandic film ever and spectacular fantasy-sequences to accomplish that. ‘Mýrin’ was close, where knights and elves fight witches ‘Köld slóð’ was way off, but ‘Reykjavík- 1919 and ogres. Rotterdam’ is right on the money. RE STAURANT Baltasar Kormákur (the director of film AND LOUNGE 4) ‘Brim’ [2010] number three on this list) gives one Directed by Árni Ásgeirsson of his best performances as a former Radisson Blu 1919 Hotel, Pósthússtræti 2, 101 Reykjavík, Tel: 599 1000 alcohol smuggler on parole who gets Vesturport is the LA Lakers of theatre tempted by the "one last mission and groups. Their hit play ‘Brim’ (written by then retire"-cliché and goes to Rot- Jón Atli Jónasson) was made into a fea- terdam to pick up some booze. All hell ture film that the critics loved. Brim is breaks loose (of course) and Iceland about a small group of people on board is officially a contender in the world of a semi-haunted fishing vessel. After clever thrillers. Currently being remade a member of the crew kills himself, a in the States as ‘Contraband’, with Quality coffee roasted on the premises young woman (Nína Dögg Filippusdót- Baltasar Kormákur at the helm and “We tried this place tir) takes his place and causes great Marky Mark playing the smuggler. purely on the back of its excellent review on Tripadvisor and weren’t CAFE HAITI by the Old Harbour disappointed. “ Geirsgata 7b, 101 Reykjavík tel: 661 5621 / 588 8484 Opening hours: 8.00 – 23.00 150,8x195mm

17-23Jan

Fresh Winds in Garður Try our famous Sunnubraut 4, Garður, Reykjanes (Just west of Keflavík airport) Exhibition opens Friday, January 7th, 13:00- 18:00, runs until January 23 / Free Icelandic What a coincidence! Last month, the Grapevine gave a few tips on how to catch sight of the Northern lights, and this month the nearby town of Garður is hosting Gourmet Fiest an international art festival dedicated to the elusive green glow. Located on the north west tip of the Reykjanes peninsula, Garður is a small fishing village exposed » Starts with a shot of the infamous to harsh winds and recognized as a prime spot for watching the Aurora Borealis. Icelandic spirit Brennívín ‘Fresh Winds’ is a collaborative art project involving numerous local and foreign artists, many of whom have been in residence at Garður for the past eight weeks. » Smoked puffin with blueberry The result of their residence will be exhibited in Garður beginning on January 6th “brennivín” sauce in the form of exhibitions, installations, concerts, presentations and screenings. For a more detailed program of events, visit www.fresh-winds.com/ » Icelandic sea-trout with peppers-salsa AK » Lobster tails baked in garlic » Pan-fried monkfish with lobster sauce » Grilled Icelandic lamb Samfaina » Minke Whale with cranberry-sauce » World famous chocolate cake with berry compoté and whipped cream 5.890 ikr.

1) Nói albínói [2003] Directed by Dagur Kári

As much as I hate being predictable, ‘Nói albinói’ really is the greatest Icelan- The only kitchen dic film of the decade. It's a beautiful tale of a strange little dude trying to in Reykjavík open escape his dreadful hometown somewhere in the snowy fjords of Iceland in to 23:30 on weekdays RESTAURANT- BAR hope of a better life with a visiting city Vesturgata 3B | 101 Reykjavík girl. I don't want to ruin what will be an and 01:00 on weekends Tel: 551 2344 | www.tapas.is enjoyable arthouse evening, but if you are at all interested in Icelandic cinema, this one is a must-see. Pizzeria tel. 578 8555 Lækjargata 8 Downtown The disqualified:

‘Íslenski draumurinn’ [2000] Directed by Róbert I. Douglas

Yup, this is the one that had to go. From first prize to nothing. ‘Íslenski draumurinn’ is an exceptional piece. Shot in the "shaky home camera"-style and supposedly didn't cost much to make, but tells a story of a (stereotypical) man every Icelander knows all too well: Probably the best pizza "Braskarinn" (The wannabe-business- man). This gut-wrenching docu-drame- dy is full of well-constructed characters, hilarious lines of dialogue and perfect in town performances from everybody. It's satirical, it's romantic, it's avant-garde, and it's almost the greatest Icelandic film of the decade. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 1 — 2011 F D 21 For your mind, body and soul Music | Top Lists By the EAT And dRInK Good Dish, Bad Dish 3 X HERE AND GONE Jófríður Ákadóttir, Pascal Pinon Curver Thoroddsen, Ghostigital Top Five: Irritating crap from the last Albums of 2010 Albums of 2010 decade The year in food 1 SUBWAY [1] Ólöf Arnalds - Innundir skinni [1] Skúli Sverrisson - Sería II Írafár sea and Subway: OK, so it’s not like the entire Subway [2] Amiina - Puzzle [2] Miri - Okkar Í Svörtum Fötum chain has vacated Iceland á la McDonalds, [3] Prinspóló - Jukk [3] Loji - Skyndiskyssur Á Móti Sól a delicios but the departure of the Austurstræti [4] Útidúr - This Mess We’ve Made [4] Apparat - Pólýfónía Buttercup outpost has left a sandwich-shaped void [5] Jónsi - Go [5] Jónas Sigurðsson og Ritvélar fram- Land og synir in Reykjavík that won’t soon be filled. tíðarinnar – Allt er eitthvað Albums of 2001-2010 Top Five: Bands that were prominent on 2 BRASILIA [1] Björk - Vespertine Albums of 2001-2010 MySpace then never did anything lobster Skólavörðurstígur is a lot less colourful since [2] Clangour - Sin Fang Bous Ghostigital - In Cod We Trust (2006) [1] Jezebel Brasilia samba-ed out of business and the [3] múm - Loksins erum við engin Mínus - Halldór Laxness (2003) [2] Johnny Sexual seyri blindingly yellow and green façade of its [4] Björk - Volta Siggi Ármann - Í Listasafni Reykjavíkur [3] Donna Mess At the Restaurant Fjöruborðið in Stokk former location was re-painted. Too bad. It had [5] Nolo - No-lo-fi (2004) [4](feel free to add to the list if you remem- potential. Sigur Rós - () (2002) ber someone else) Kimono Arctic Death Ship (2005) < Only 45 minutes drive from Reykjavík 3 SUBWAY 2EYKJAVqK Eyrarbraut 3, 825 Stokkseyri, Iceland · Tel. +354 483 1550 It just hurts so bad. 3TOKKSEYRI %YRABAKKI Fax. +354 483 1545 · [email protected] · www.fjorubordid.is 3 X YOU'RE AWESOME Heiða Eiríksdóttir, Hellvar Sindri Freyr Steinsson, Bárujárn Tanya Pollock, Weirdcore Albums of 2010 Albums of 2010 Albums of 2010 [1] Nolo - No-lo-fi [1] Nolo – No-Lo-Fi [1] Quadruplos - Quadruplos 1 ICELANDIC FISH AND CHIPS [1] Apparat Organ Quartett – Pólýfónía [2] Daníel Bjarnason - Processions [2] Weirdcore 2 - compilation You’re awesome, guys! Wolf fish, mango [1] Prinspóló - Jukk [3] Svartidauði -Temple of Deformation [3] Ólöf Arnalds- Innundir skinni salad and garlic potatoes (with coriander and [1] Ég - Lúxus upplifun [4] Momentum - Fixation, at rest [4] Jónsi - Go lime skyronnaise, of course) rocks my world. [1] Swords of Chaos - The End Is As Near [5] Swords of Chaos - The end is as near as [5] Agent Fresco- A Long Time Listening Tryggvagata 8 As Your Teeth your teeth Albums of 2001-2010

drifter with a deplorable attitude who out of the questions. Plus, we just ate 1 GAMLA SMIðJAN [1] Loji - Skyndiskissur Albums of 2010 from Retro Stefson, Agent Fresco, Útidúr, refuses to vacate my apartment. Despite there yesterday. Look, I’m only writing this because I care, but [2] Prinspóló - Jukk [1] Páll Ívan Pálsson - Dægurlög Jóel Pálsson, Jónas Sigurðsson, Skálmöld, I’mma have to put you on notice. I voted you best [3] Retro Stefson - Kimbabwe [1] Apparat Organ Quartet – Pólýfónía Prinspóló, Ellen Kristjáns, Amiina, etc. etc. the fact that I’ve been writing on these Brasilia closed down, Gló is too far pizza in town and then you go making a few [4] Agent Fresco - A Long Time Listening [1] Seabear - We Built a Fire etc. Regrettably, I just haven’t had the time. here food pages for a whole year now (or we’re too lazy), I downed Hressó’s questionable pies and I have to start questioning [5] Jónsi - Go [1] Retro Stefson - Kimbabwe In addition, such a list might contain albums (where has the time gone?) the three of soup today at lunch (chicken and veg— my vote. I know you’ve still got it in ya, guys. Step [1] Prins Póló - Jukk from Daníel Bjarnason, Jónsi, Ólöf Arnalds, us are at a complete loss for what to eat yummy!) and I just had Icelandic Fish it up, you’re on notice! Lækjargata 8 Albums of 2001-2010 Seabear and Pascal Pinon... The year 2010 for dinner. and Chips yesterday, though it’s always [1] Mugison - Mugimama is this monkey (Benni Hemm Hemm, Ólöf Arnalds, Amiina, was overflowing with great albums, but music? Sóley, Miri, Bárujárn, Nolo, Agent Fresco my list will not consist of them. Rather, it The one certainty is that we are sure a crowd-pleaser. 2 TANDOORI [2] Mínus - Jesus Christ Bobby and lots more could have easily wound is a list of four albums that I would like to as hell not going to cook for ourselves. What’s a retiring food reviewer to I’m not even sure I can put Tandoori on notice, but I will anyways. You see, I’ve never had the [3] Ben Frost – Theory of Machines up on this list, I just couldn’t cram more in recommend especially without necessarily Since I should, at this point, know do? chance to eat there since reviewing. Not for lack [4] Sin Fang Bous - Clangour there. The best year for Icelandic music in a saying they’re better or worse than any of a thing or two about where to get some The moral of this story may be that of trying. When 90% of the menu is chicken and [5] XXXR - XXX Rottweilerhundar long time). the others. customers roll up and the place is empty and decent nosh the responsibility looks to I need to cook for myself more often. the restaurant is out of chicken that’s just bad Runner up: Úlfur Eldjárn, Apparat Organ Quartet Skúli Sverrisson Sería II be falling on my shoulders. Or it may be that I need to surround business. Tandoori, you’re on notice! Skeifan 11 múm - Loksins erum við engin Albums of 2010 Nolo - No Lo-Fi Noodle Station started out my myself with people more capable of I am not good at making these lists, and I Bloodgroup - Dry Land reviewer stint on a high-note, warming making decisions. Or it may be that don’t really want to choose the ‘albums of Sóley - Theater Island me up last February with that sweet, Subway should have never closed the year’. This is because I haven’t man- spicy and consistently awesome noodley their downtown location because then goodness of theirs. The atmosphere in all of our lives in the 101 area would their small shop on Skólavörðurstígur be significantly improved because, FYRIR Noodle soup with chicken IKR 930 AF MATSEÐLI has changed somewhat but the goods goddamnit, that was such a convenient Decade | Bart Cameron 2Í HÁDEGINU ALLA 1DAGA Noodle soup with beef IKR 930 have stayed the same. But we just ate place to have around in exactly this type there yesterday and crave variety. No of situation! dice. So, despite all the food, good and The grub over at Grillið was even bad, that I’ve enjoyed and endured over We Dream Bigger more spectacular than the view from the past year it looks like we’re going for the top of Hótel Saga, where it is something I didn’t review. Because the situated—that buttery, melt in your burgers at Prikið always hit the spot. sushismiðjan I think I know where the mouth halibut and that enigmatic confidence and swagger but delightful carrot flan still makes came from. Davíð Oddsson. cameos in my dream—but we’re no CATHARINE FULTON RESTAURANT Hard to explain how adored VIÐ SMÁBÁTAHÖFINA he was, other than to say Davíð is to Home of the best noodle soup! economic policy as Ronald Reagan is to OPIÐ TIL 22:00 nuclear policy. Where Reagan horrified the world in the 1980s with his nuclear Food & Drink | Venue finder gymnastics, Davíð astonished those Skólavörðustígur 21A with even the faintest interest in 3 Frakkar Balthazar Geysir Bar/Bistro Icelandic Fish & Chips | E4 Sjávarkjallarinn economics with his bear hug of free

Baldursgata 14 | G4 Hafnarstræti 1-3 | D2 Aðalstræti 2 | D2 Tryggvagata 8 | B2 Aðalstræti 2 | D2 market capitalism. Indian Mango Nonnabiti Davíð’s policies were barely exam- Aktu Taktu Bæjarins Beztu Garðurinn Hafnarstræti 9 | D3 Sólon Skúlugata 15 | E6 Tryggvagata | D3 Klappastigur 37 | F4 Frakkastígur 12 | F5 Bankastræti 7a | E3 ined daydreams set forward with the O Sushi Alibaba Brons Glætan book café Jómfrúin Sushibarinn discipline and tact of a petulant child. Lækjargata 4 | E3 Lækjargata 2A | E3 And yet, they came true. In 2004, the A genuine Nordic 3 course feast Veltusund 3b | D2 Pósthússtræti 9 | E3 Laugavegur 19 | F5 Laugavegur 2 | E4 Kaffi Hljómalind Pisa first article I was assigned to write American Style Café Cultura Grái Kötturinn Lækjargötu 6b | E3 Sushismiðjan Tryggvagata 26 | D2 Hverfisgata 18 | E4 Hverfisgata 16A | E4 Laugavegur 21 | E4 Geirsgötu 3 | B2 about Iceland was an explanation of starting from 4.900,- Pizza King Davíð Oddsson's amazing economic Argentína Steakhouse Café d'Haiti Grillhúsið Kaffifélagið Svarta Kaffi Skólavörðustígur 10 Hafnarstræti 18 | D3 policies. I knew nothing about econom- Barónstígur | F6 Tryggvagata 12 | D2 Tryggvagata 20 | D2 Laugavegur 54 | F5 of artists, musicians, and even game of other bands' music. But Sigur Rós | F5 Pizza Pronto ics—when I reached out to a Harvard Austurlanda- Café Loki Habibi Vallarstræti 4 | E2 Sægreifinn friend's economics professor, he re- designers, had within them this core presented it with such fearlessness and hraðlestin Lokastígur 28 | G4 Hafnarstræti 20 | E3 Kaffitár Verbúð 8, Geirsgata quality. imagination. Bankastræti 8 | E4 Pizzaverksmiðjan plied: “It is a miracle. You don't need to Hverfisgata 64A | F5 Café Paris Hamborgarabúlla | B2 In the arts, it worked. The Tate and There are hundreds of points I can't Kaffivagninn Lækjargötu 8 | E3 know economic theory. If debt is three Á Næstu Grösum Austurstræti 14 | E3 Tómasar (“Bullan”) Tapas times GDP, the country's economy is then the Brooklyn Bridge were handed cover here—not sure who'd read about Laugavegur 20B | E4 Geirsgata 1 | B2 Grandagarður 10 | A1 Prikið Vesturgata 3B | D2 over to the Icelander-via-Denmark artist the politics and business highs and Café Roma Bankastræti 12 | E3 doomed.” B5 Rauðarárstígur 8 | G7 Hlölla Bátar Kofi Tómasar Frænda Thorvaldsen Ólafur Elíasson. Filmmakers Dagur Kári lows, or the hundreds of musicians and Laugavegur 2 | E4 Ráðhúskaffi | E2 Reality didn't match the dream. I Bankastræti 5 | E3 Deli Ingólfstorg | D2 Austurstræti 8 | D2 told my editor I was clueless, which she and Baltasar Kormákur drew interna- artists who definitely did something Kornið Tjarnargata 11 tional praise. Iceland Airwaves took worthwhile. My takeaway from a long Bakkus Bankastræti 14 | E5 Hornið Tíu Dropar had already assumed. In the coming Tryggvagata 22 | D2 Hafnarstræti 15 | D3 Lækjargata 4 | E3 Santa Maria Laugavegur 27 | E5 flight. time thinking about the country is just Domo Laugavegur 22A, | F5 months, authorities ranging from The Ban Thai Þingholtsstræti 5 | E3 Hótel Holt Krua Thai Tívolí Economist to the Wall Street Journal The most impressive example, and that Iceland approached the decade Tryggvagata 14 | D2 Serrano the most positive, of the we dream with no resources save personality, and Laugavegur 130 | G7 Einar Ben Bergstaðarstræti 37 Laugavegur 3 | E4 backed Davíð as the wizard behind the | G3 La Primavera Hringbraut 12 | H3 big decade is what four guys from Mos- they made a profound impact with only Basil & Lime Veltusundi | E2 Vegamót Icelandic miracle. Klapparstíg 38 | E4 Humarhúsið Austurstræti 9 | D2 Shalimar Vegamótastígur 4 | E4 It was another three years before fellsbær did. Sigur Rós invented a genre that. Now go listen to some kissing hot Eldsmiðjan Austurstræti 4 | D2 of music and an empire, operating dogs. Babalú Bragagata 38A | G4 Amtmanstígur 1 | E3 Lystin Við Tjörnina everyone changed their minds. Laugavegur 73 | F6 Silfur entirely outside of the realities of the Skólavörðustígur 22A Fiskmarkaðurinn Hressó Templarasund 3 | E2 But for me, Davíð Oddsson's per- | G5 Austurstræti 20 | E4 Mokka Pósthússtræti 11 | E3 sonality was the key Icelandic trait of music business. It's not that their music Pósthússtræti 11 101 Reykjavík Tel: 578 2008 www.silfur.is Aðalstræti 12 | D2 Vitabar is, at its core, superior to a number Skólavörðustígur 3A Bergþórugata 21 | G5 the aughties in Iceland. A generation The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 1 — 2011 F D 21 For your mind, body and soul Music | Top Lists By the EAT And dRInK Good Dish, Bad Dish 3 X HERE AND GONE Jófríður Ákadóttir, Pascal Pinon Curver Thoroddsen, Ghostigital Top Five: Irritating crap from the last Albums of 2010 Albums of 2010 decade The year in food 1 SUBWAY [1] Ólöf Arnalds - Innundir skinni [1] Skúli Sverrisson - Sería II Írafár sea and Subway: OK, so it’s not like the entire Subway [2] Amiina - Puzzle [2] Miri - Okkar Í Svörtum Fötum chain has vacated Iceland á la McDonalds, [3] Prinspóló - Jukk [3] Loji - Skyndiskyssur Á Móti Sól a delicios but the departure of the Austurstræti [4] Útidúr - This Mess We’ve Made [4] Apparat - Pólýfónía Buttercup outpost has left a sandwich-shaped void [5] Jónsi - Go [5] Jónas Sigurðsson og Ritvélar fram- Land og synir in Reykjavík that won’t soon be filled. tíðarinnar – Allt er eitthvað Albums of 2001-2010 Top Five: Bands that were prominent on 2 BRASILIA [1] Björk - Vespertine Albums of 2001-2010 MySpace then never did anything lobster Skólavörðurstígur is a lot less colourful since [2] Clangour - Sin Fang Bous Ghostigital - In Cod We Trust (2006) [1] Jezebel Brasilia samba-ed out of business and the [3] múm - Loksins erum við engin Mínus - Halldór Laxness (2003) [2] Johnny Sexual seyri blindingly yellow and green façade of its [4] Björk - Volta Siggi Ármann - Í Listasafni Reykjavíkur [3] Donna Mess At the Restaurant Fjöruborðið in Stokk former location was re-painted. Too bad. It had [5] Nolo - No-lo-fi (2004) [4](feel free to add to the list if you remem- potential. Sigur Rós - () (2002) ber someone else) Kimono Arctic Death Ship (2005) < Only 45 minutes drive from Reykjavík 3 SUBWAY 2EYKJAVqK Eyrarbraut 3, 825 Stokkseyri, Iceland · Tel. +354 483 1550 It just hurts so bad. 3TOKKSEYRI %YRABAKKI Fax. +354 483 1545 · [email protected] · www.fjorubordid.is 3 X YOU'RE AWESOME Heiða Eiríksdóttir, Hellvar Sindri Freyr Steinsson, Bárujárn Tanya Pollock, Weirdcore Albums of 2010 Albums of 2010 Albums of 2010 [1] Nolo - No-lo-fi [1] Nolo – No-Lo-Fi [1] Quadruplos - Quadruplos 1 ICELANDIC FISH AND CHIPS [1] Apparat Organ Quartett – Pólýfónía [2] Daníel Bjarnason - Processions [2] Weirdcore 2 - compilation You’re awesome, guys! Wolf fish, mango [1] Prinspóló - Jukk [3] Svartidauði -Temple of Deformation [3] Ólöf Arnalds- Innundir skinni salad and garlic potatoes (with coriander and [1] Ég - Lúxus upplifun [4] Momentum - Fixation, at rest [4] Jónsi - Go lime skyronnaise, of course) rocks my world. [1] Swords of Chaos - The End Is As Near [5] Swords of Chaos - The end is as near as [5] Agent Fresco- A Long Time Listening Tryggvagata 8 As Your Teeth your teeth Albums of 2001-2010

2 FISH COMPANY Albums of 2001-2010 Albums of 2001-2010 [1] FM Belfast - How to make friends You’re pretty goddamn awesome! I’d go ‘Around [1] I Adapt - Chainlike Burden [1] Forgotten Lores -Frá Heimsenda [2] Ruxpin - Where do we float from here the World’ with you any time – it’s the most [2] Ghostigital - In Cod We Trust [2] Hr.Ingi.R - Hundadiskó [3] Emilína Torrini - Fishermans wife delicious way to travel. Vesturgata 2a [3] Skakkamanage - Lab of love [3] Mínus - Halldór Laxness [4] Kimono - Mineur aggressive [4] Morðingjarnir - Áfram Ísland [4] Ben Frost - By The Throat [5] Mammút - Karkari 3 NOODLE STATION [5] múm – go go smear the poison ivy [5] Reykjavík! - Glacial Landscapes, Reli- You’re awesome, too! It might be the MSG, gion, Oppression & Alchohol troupe of travelling Trumps and we’re but it might just be the awesome. Keep it up! I’m sitting here writing these words Skólavörðustígur 21a while simultaneously carrying on a feeling the post-holidays credit crunch conversation with my manfriend and like all the common folks, so shelling 2 X YOU'RE ON NOTICE Bóas Hallgrímsson, Reykjavík! Örvar Þóreyjarson Smárason, múm, FM aged to listen properly to half of what was some heavily tattooed French-Canadian out for a fancy-pants five-course treat is Albums of 2010 Belfast released, for instance striking hot albums drifter with a deplorable attitude who out of the questions. Plus, we just ate 1 GAMLA SMIðJAN [1] Loji - Skyndiskissur Albums of 2010 from Retro Stefson, Agent Fresco, Útidúr, refuses to vacate my apartment. Despite there yesterday. Look, I’m only writing this because I care, but [2] Prinspóló - Jukk [1] Páll Ívan Pálsson - Dægurlög Jóel Pálsson, Jónas Sigurðsson, Skálmöld, I’mma have to put you on notice. I voted you best [3] Retro Stefson - Kimbabwe [1] Apparat Organ Quartet – Pólýfónía Prinspóló, Ellen Kristjáns, Amiina, etc. etc. the fact that I’ve been writing on these Brasilia closed down, Gló is too far pizza in town and then you go making a few [4] Agent Fresco - A Long Time Listening [1] Seabear - We Built a Fire etc. Regrettably, I just haven’t had the time. here food pages for a whole year now (or we’re too lazy), I downed Hressó’s questionable pies and I have to start questioning [5] Jónsi - Go [1] Retro Stefson - Kimbabwe In addition, such a list might contain albums (where has the time gone?) the three of soup today at lunch (chicken and veg— my vote. I know you’ve still got it in ya, guys. Step [1] Prins Póló - Jukk from Daníel Bjarnason, Jónsi, Ólöf Arnalds, us are at a complete loss for what to eat yummy!) and I just had Icelandic Fish it up, you’re on notice! Lækjargata 8 Albums of 2001-2010 Seabear and Pascal Pinon... The year 2010 for dinner. and Chips yesterday, though it’s always [1] Mugison - Mugimama is this monkey (Benni Hemm Hemm, Ólöf Arnalds, Amiina, was overflowing with great albums, but music? Sóley, Miri, Bárujárn, Nolo, Agent Fresco my list will not consist of them. Rather, it The one certainty is that we are sure a crowd-pleaser. 2 TANDOORI [2] Mínus - Jesus Christ Bobby and lots more could have easily wound is a list of four albums that I would like to as hell not going to cook for ourselves. What’s a retiring food reviewer to I’m not even sure I can put Tandoori on notice, but I will anyways. You see, I’ve never had the [3] Ben Frost – Theory of Machines up on this list, I just couldn’t cram more in recommend especially without necessarily Since I should, at this point, know do? chance to eat there since reviewing. Not for lack [4] Sin Fang Bous - Clangour there. The best year for Icelandic music in a saying they’re better or worse than any of a thing or two about where to get some The moral of this story may be that of trying. When 90% of the menu is chicken and [5] XXXR - XXX Rottweilerhundar long time). the others. customers roll up and the place is empty and decent nosh the responsibility looks to I need to cook for myself more often. the restaurant is out of chicken that’s just bad Runner up: Úlfur Eldjárn, Apparat Organ Quartet Skúli Sverrisson Sería II be falling on my shoulders. Or it may be that I need to surround business. Tandoori, you’re on notice! Skeifan 11 múm - Loksins erum við engin Albums of 2010 Nolo - No Lo-Fi Noodle Station started out my myself with people more capable of I am not good at making these lists, and I Bloodgroup - Dry Land reviewer stint on a high-note, warming making decisions. Or it may be that don’t really want to choose the ‘albums of Sóley - Theater Island me up last February with that sweet, Subway should have never closed the year’. This is because I haven’t man- spicy and consistently awesome noodley their downtown location because then goodness of theirs. The atmosphere in all of our lives in the 101 area would their small shop on Skólavörðurstígur be significantly improved because, FYRIR Noodle soup with chicken IKR 930 AF MATSEÐLI has changed somewhat but the goods goddamnit, that was such a convenient Decade | Bart Cameron 2Í HÁDEGINU ALLA 1DAGA Noodle soup with beef IKR 930 have stayed the same. But we just ate place to have around in exactly this type there yesterday and crave variety. No of situation! dice. So, despite all the food, good and The grub over at Grillið was even bad, that I’ve enjoyed and endured over We Dream Bigger more spectacular than the view from the past year it looks like we’re going for the top of Hótel Saga, where it is something I didn’t review. Because the situated—that buttery, melt in your burgers at Prikið always hit the spot. sushismiðjan I think I know where the mouth halibut and that enigmatic confidence and swagger but delightful carrot flan still makes came from. Davíð Oddsson. cameos in my dream—but we’re no CATHARINE FULTON RESTAURANT Hard to explain how adored VIÐ SMÁBÁTAHÖFINA he was, other than to say Davíð is to Home of the best noodle soup! economic policy as Ronald Reagan is to OPIÐ TIL 22:00 nuclear policy. Where Reagan horrified the world in the 1980s with his nuclear Food & Drink | Venue finder gymnastics, Davíð astonished those Skólavörðustígur 21A with even the faintest interest in 3 Frakkar Balthazar Geysir Bar/Bistro Icelandic Fish & Chips | E4 Sjávarkjallarinn economics with his bear hug of free

Music | Dr. Gunni Music | Birkir Fjalar Viðarsson

Not Going Anywhere In Particular The Most Important Hard, The '00s fifty best albums Fast And Heavy Of 2001-10

In 2001 Icelandic hip flow, except Pönkbandið Fjölnir ("Fjöl- No one wants to make a list like this. hop exploded with the nir, the Punkband") who came out of You like to get stoned (no pun) to death Klink – 666°N (2001) genre's first (and nowhere to make their sole master- by disappointed band dorks? First I at- Took all the nasty, last?) super selling piece ‘Sonur neyslusamfélagsins var tempted a list of five. I agonised over it. gritty and unpleasant masterpiece, the XXX hér’ (or: “The Consumer Society’s Son Stretched it to ten. Tears still rolling. Ex- elements ‘90s metalc- Dr. Gunni's Rottweiler hundar’s Was Here”). Of course few took notice ceeded ten but I still feel abused. Svar- ore (before the glossy Best Albums Of The self-titled début. Simple yet cool beats of the angry but smart punk rock and tidauði, Snafu, Myrk, Forgarður Helvíts, magazines stole the Decade and impudent and fresh lyrics spewed likewise angry and smart lyrics, so Fjöl- Innvortis, DMSS etc. I know! Talk to me moniker) and made a four-song hom- out by what appeared to be a gang of nir vanished without a trace. Even now I in 2021. age to perversion, degradation, vio- street urchins had everyone take no- don't know what people were in this lence and drugs. And it’s a banger! tice, even the masses, who favoured band but listening to the album still Andlát – Mors Lon- Holds up well still to this day and is a 2001 the mesmerising ballad ‘Bent nálgast’. makes me feel strangely joyous. ga (2004) sketchy ass classic. XXX Rottweiler hundar - XXX A bit of rap frenzy followed in Rottwei- Andlát won the Músík- Rottweiler hundar ler's wake, with a great supply of Ice- In 2007 Sprengjuhöllin tilraunir ‘battle of the Mínus – Halldór Trabant - Moment Of Truth landic rap albums seeing release over (“The Bomb Palace”) bands’ (and in doing Laxness (2003) Björk - Vespertine the next few years. However, nothing in came forth with ‘Tí- so, helped make metal Gorgeous slap of ag- Úlpa - Mea Culpa Icelandic hip hop has ever matched the marnir okkar’ (“Our cool again). Wasted no time and re- gressive, sweaty and Funerals - Pathetic Me impact of Rottweiler's debut album. Times”), which, true to corded this head-stomping collection, dangerous stadium- its title, tried and suc- securing a loyal fan base that followed ready rock, it gave 2002 In 2002, Sigur Rós fi- ceeded in speaking popwise to "the the band’s every riff and thudding beat. a much needed kick in ass of young Sigur Rós -( ) nally followed up times". Sounding as clever as Jarvis Both were in plenty! The record isn’t bands and even the ones that pre-dat- Apparat Organ Quartet - Apparat 1999's ‘Ágætis byrjun’ Cocker of Pulp in his prime—or Stuð- spectacular, but its music, their epic ed Mínus. Due to the record’s cross- Organ Quartet with the grey and slow menn and Spilverk þjóðanna in their win and loving fans yell “important!” at over potential and success at home and Móri - Móri "brackets" album. In prime – Sprengjuhöllin saved demand- me. abroad, other acts, with stars in their múm - loksins erum við engin the interim Sigur Rós ing listeners from the lyrical doldrums eyes upped the ante, and as a result the Búdrýgindi - Kúbakóla had become international indie super- of almost everything else at the time. Brain Police – Brain quality of Icelandic rock and metal grew stars, playing to packed concert halls The music was fine indie pop and the Police (2003) considerably. I still prefer ‘Jesus Christ 2003 the world over. Expectations were natu- band flew to the knoll of Icelandic pop- Brain Police started Bobby’ to ‘Halldór Laxness’, but its al- Mínus - Halldór Laxness rally high and they were met, kind of, dom with the wistful breakup song crafting their mastery lure was rare feat indeed and its impact Skytturnar - Illgresið except that the impact of surprise was ‘Verum í sambandi’. in ‘98. Undisputed was felt for years after its release. Maus - Musick lost. This time Jónsi wasn't in the mood pioneers of all things Botnleðja - Iceland National Park to write any lyrics, or even name the In 2008 FM Belfast stoner and desert rock in Iceland. ‘Ja- Momentum – Fixa- Bang Gang - Something Wrong songs, so he sang English and Icelandic were all about having cuzzi Suzy’ and ‘Rocket Fuel’ are radio tion, At Rest (2010) word-similitudes—memorably the Ice- fun on their super jolly hits. Regular Joes are now aware of They gave the words 2004 landic likeness of “I am a sea-lion” in ‘How To Make Friends’. ‘stoner rock’, and stoner/desert bands ambition and grandi- Mugison - Mugimama is this the first song—giving birth to the "ho- The music came out of keep popping up. Trailblazers in an Ice- ose a new meaning. monkeymusic? pelandish" hogwash. Sigur Rós were Árni Rúnar Hlöðvers- landic context. The crown is theirs. It’s a breathtaking ex- Singapore Sling - Life Is Killing My onwards to more international acclaim son's computers with his girlfriend and ploration of their own potential. Hom- Rock’N’Roll and countless reviews likening their friends singing and jumping around. Dys – Ísland brennur age to artistic aspiration and autonomy, Jan Mayen - Home Of The Free songs to "melting glaciers". "We come from a place where we count (2003) sprinkled with psychedelia. Raised the Indeed the days until nothing, nothing, noth- Anthemic hc/punk bar for Icelandic metal. Now you can Pornopop - And The Slow Songs In 2003, rock quintet ing…" is an unlikely party-anthem, but with an odd metal un- shotgun beer and be artistically and About The Dead Calm In Your Mínus hit the artistic such is the charm of FM Belfast. dertone. Every song is thoughtful at the same time. Hands jackpot with their ex- a hit. The only punks Quarashi - Guerilla Disco perimental hard rock 2009 brought Hjaltalín singing in Icelandic about social aware- Potentiam – Orka í masterpiece named with their second al- ness, responsibility, political resistance, Myrkri (2004) 2005 after Iceland's beloved bum, ‘Terminal’. Show- direct action and kindness. Mak- Moving beyond the Emilíana Torrini - The Fisherman's Nobel laureate Halldór Laxness. This ing great promise on ing sure that the hc/punk spectrum conventional com- woman was Mínus' third album and with noise their debut album two wouldn’t become “entertainment only”. pounds atmo-scandi Trabant - Emotional magician Curver on their side, the band years earlier, Högni Yes! Black Metal. This ma- Ég - Plata Ársins members—on a creative streak—just did Egilsson and his gang now delivered a terial landed them a release on a re- Sigur Rós - Takk whatever the hell they wanted. The al- complex and ambitious album totally Gavin Portland – spected international label, showing Siggi Ármann - Music For The bum is the opposite of conservatism living up to expectations. Hjaltalín play Views Of Distant the rest of the well-hidden black metal Addicted and normalcy, still as crisp and exciting melodic and finely crafted pop songs, Towns (2006) hopefuls that their isolation could be today as it was seven years ago. often sounding grand and ornamented, Fighting Shit (band) undone. A feat not many BM bands be- 2006 like it should be a James Bond movie predates this release. fore—or after—accomplished. Pönkbandið Fjölnir - Sonur In 2004, electric trou- title track. Still, sharing the same neyslusamfélagsins var hér badour Mugison be- main-songwriter and singer/lyricist the Severed Crotch – Eberg - Voff voff came a smash hit with In 2010 Retro Stefson's two cannot be separated as GP brought Soul Cremation Reykjavík! - Glacial Landscapes, his second album, the second album ‘Kimba- the best elements of FS’s last album, (2007) Religion, Oppression And Alcohol sloppy but tight, very bwe’ showed a band built on it and added a more emotive Internationally speak- Pétur Ben - Wine For My Weakness experimental and flip- busting at the seams and refreshingly mysterious edge to it. ing, it’s a bit hack- Benni Hemm Hemm - Kajak pant ‘Mugimama Is This Monkeymu- with creative joie de The “indie” dashes found herein en- neyed, but the band’s sic?’ Mugison had already made a vivre. Not shy of doing couraged young bands to venture fur- debut release is so spirited and dedi- 2007 name for himself with his debut album, whatever they felt like, Retro Stefson's ther. cated that it immediately became an “it Sprengjuhöllin - Tímarnir okkar ‘Lonely Mountain’, released the year merry boys (and girl) mixed heavy met- had to happen” type of record. Brutal Megas - Frágangur / Hold er mold before, but now nobody had to second- al with disco, indie pop with afro beats, Graveslime – and technical death metal had a lot of Ólöf Arnalds -Við og við guess his brilliance. Made in solitude in and so on. The tightness of the band Roughness And fans here, yet there was not fully a func- Björk -Volta West fjord village of Súðavík, the album and the cleverness of how the band ap- Toughness (2003) tioning band to pull the wagon. Subse- Mugison - Mugiboogie is adventurous and full of both fluffy proaches the music is quite amazing as Your head hurt, after quently contemporary DM brethrens and chunky bits. the members are (almost) still in their banging it too hard and wanted to improve. The Crotchsters 2008 teens. scratching it intensely brought more fun to metal shows. FM Belfast - How to Make Friends In 2005, England Reading the above one can infer trying to figure out the stop-and-goes. Morðingjarnir - Áfram Ísland! based Emiliana Torrini that all types of music were going on in Heavy, organic, charming and playful, it Sólstafir – Master- Lay Low - Farewell Good Night’s hit a true chord with this decade of constantly evolving rock was one of the most peculiar and best piece Of Bitterness Sleep her ‘Fisherman's and pop music. Obviously, the evolution of the decade. Hear them in The Heavy (2005) Dr. Spock - Falcon Christ Woman’. The singer/ has slowed down though, almost to a Experience and Me, The Slumbering One of Iceland’s old- Sigur Rós - Með suð í eyrum við songwriter had tried a halt. All the ingredients are in the pot— Napoleon alike. est, certainly longest spilum endalaust more complex pop with computerised the stew is just constantly being stirred. lasting, metal bands dance-beats on her ‘Love in the Time of The music made in 2010 could have I Adapt – Why Not turned a new page in their career. There 2009 Science’ album in 1999 (her debut if been made in 2001, and vice versa. The Make Today Leg- was change in style and approach. A Hjaltalín - Terminal you don't count her earlier cover-al- music is not going anywhere particular, endary? (2001) new sound was being established. New Bloodgroup - Dry Land bums made in Iceland), but now she so you might as well sit back, relax and WNMTL is important ears were reached. The coordinates Dikta - Get It Together was all hushed down, sincere and mini- enjoy. Maybe this century's first de- through the lasting said world domination, a road was Kimono - Easy Music For Diffficult malistic, relying mostly on a trusty cade will have some kind of collective effect it had through paved to ‘Köld’, their latest and best. People acoustic guitar for support. Dealing "sound" in retrospect—just like "sixties- constantly playing DIY concerts, push- Now their closer to being a full-time Caterpillarmen - Adopt a monkey with emotions stemming from the music" or "eighties-music"—but as of ing these songs to introduce different metal band than any Icelandic crew death of a loved one, Emiliana made a now, I just can't pin it down. Future styles of hardcore and going beyond before them. The steady success that 2010 heartfelt masterpiece. generations might hear it though. what was expected, to engage listen- pushed Icelandic metal to new heights. Retro Stefson - Kimbabwe ers, as demonstrated in the lyrics + ex- Jónsi - Go Orgelkvartettinn planations, addressing issues and opin- Apparat Organ Quartet- Pólýfónía In 2006 we were ions rarely if ever on display at the time, BlazRoca - Kópacobana warming up to 2007, influencing a different communal spirit. Agent Fresco - A long time the year of total glut- (Full disclosure: this list’s author is a listening tony. Everybody was founding member of I Adapt. Everyone apparently going still agrees that this should make the along with the money list. Everyone that counts, anyway). The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 1 — 2011 23

Music | Bob Cluness Music | Sindri Eldon "And Some Things That Five Albums That Shaped Should Not Have Been Forgotten Were Lost."

Bob Cluness’ Decade I don't really listen to music, so there weren't five, or ten, or indeed any Icelan- Sigur Rós – () But somehow I just found this did the dic albums released this year that particu- (2002) same stuff, better, and five years earlier larly caught my attention. The last decade The world’s most in- as well. Sometimes on a Saturday night has, however, yielded some important al- furiatingly enigmatic if I’m alone and before I go out, I like bums, if not for Iceland or the world, but band. But man when to put this on while dancing naked with for me, as this was the decade I had the they get it right they a jar of pickles to get me in the mood. sad misfortune to grow up in. This is also fucking get it right! I chose ‘()’ over Nothing wrong in that is there? a kind of retrospective, I guess, as I didn't ‘Takk’ as nobody in the world seemed Singapore Sling - discover a few of these until long after to be making this kind of music at the Life Is Killing My they'd been released. time. Not so much ethereal, more oc- Rock 'N' Roll (2004) cupying a completely different place in The group that is re- ENSÍMI – ‘ENSÍMI’ (2002) This bad boy pretty much set the standard, production- space and time. Plus for some inexpli- sponsible for creating wise, for Icelandic rock in the... the whatever cable reason, track 4 (or ‘Njósnavélin’) a whole brand of Ice- you call this decade. Oughties? Noughties? seems to make me cry every time I lis- landic death rock with numerous imi- Something like that. Anyway, it blew all of ten to it. Shut up! tators but never bettered to be honest. its contemporaries out of the water, and also Mínus – Jesus Christ Their whole sound can be perfectly en- served as a kind of recap of the ‘90s, high- lighting Icelandic music’s attitudes in that Bobby (2000) capsulated in the track, ‘Guiding Light’ far-off decade: it’s vain, cheesy, cocky and An unyielding mass of a shimmering vehicle that blazes across cliché, but man, does it rock. Veering from spiteful noise that was the devils highway wearing shades. Al- sneering, balls-out guitar machismo to in- the aural equivalent legedly. dulgent synths and drum patterns, and yet of firebombing your Björk – Volta (2007) somehow managing to string it all together, it perfectly encapsulates a balance between The obligatory Björk neighbour’s house and killing everyone near-obsessive micromanagement in its due to a dispute over hedge bound- entry. I found this al- production and crisp, vigorous energy in its aries. The thing with JCB was that bum was her most lis- delivery. at times it was more noise than rock, tenable she had pro- BOTNLEDJA – ‘ICELAND NATIONAL thanks to their clever decision to have duced in a long time. PARK’ (2003) Unfortunately released the same summer that gave Iceland two of its Curver produce the album. Still gives There is something in there for every- most bombastic and self-indulgent rock al- me nightmares involving trolls with dil- body from tribal rhythms to avant garde bums, Maus’s ‘Musick’ and Mínus’s ‘Halldór dos. song structures, melodic pop hooks Laxness’, Botnleðja’s last shot at the big time GusGus – Attention to fervent politics. She even made Ti- was unassuming, simple and recorded in a (2002) mabaland work as a producer for a garage for very little (if any) money. This, The first GusGus al- change, so it can’t be all bad! coupled with the unspeakably awful music video to ‘Brains, Balls And Dolls’ (Why bum I bought was the fuck did they let Bjaddni Hell make so 2007s ‘Forever’ and many videos? Why, in God’s name?), led to that is a great album. it quickly being forgotten and dismissed, and it is always noticeably absent from all “great Icelandic albums” lists, while all of Bob Cluness’s Favourite Albums Of a is a better compilation that shows the Botnleðja’s previous releases (except for the 2010 rude health Icelandic electronic music rehab album, but they always leave those out) 1: Apparat Organ Quartet – ‘Pólýfónía’. finds itself in 2010, then I’m not really do- usually manage to make their way to the top After an eight year break these guys just ing my job properly. twenty. I find this brutally unfair, as ‘Iceland came out of nowhere and completely 4: Agent Fresco – ‘A Long Time Listen- National Park’ is a crashing romp of an al- eclipsed every other band in the country, ing’: bum that crackles with energy, enthusiasm just for the sport. I mean who else was Agent Fresco managed to break free from and innovation, as brilliant as it is flippant going to touch them musically, Retro Stef- the shackles that ‘Eyes Of A Cloud Catcher’ and off-kilter. It is the last album by one of son? Don’t make me laugh! was in danger of constraining them with by those rare bands where every member is not 2: Momentum – Fixation, At Rest: making an album that was both VERY in- only excellent at what he does, but shines do- Of all the metal albums I’ve heard this year, telligent and at the same time rocked like ing it on virtually every track. Never forget! ‘Fixation, At Rest’ had the biggest musical the proverbial mother. I also found singer PORNOPOP – ‘AND THE SLOW SONGS scope, the most ambition, the most balls to Arnór Dan’s trousers strangely tight and ABOUT THE DEAD CALM IN YOUR ARMS’ (2006) Pornopop never quite man- run with it to the sky. It was the little things alluring. No idea why... aged to reach the heights of respect they so like the use of scratched violins on the 5: Nóra – ‘Er einhver að hlusta?’ richly deserve, and although it was released riff on ‘Metamorphose’ that told you they While most other pop bands just faffed to generally positive reviews, ATSSATDCI- knew what they’re doing. around with the idea of creating tunes YA (still a mouthful, even as an acronym) is 3: Various Artists – Hljóðaklettar (that were frankly as bland and off putting hardly a fixture of iPods anywhere. This is, ‘Dress Up’: as week old slátur), Nóra produced music I suppose, understandable: it’s not a terribly Most of you won’t have heard this (as there that was immediate, simple and powerful. inviting album, awash in limp-wristed res- were only 35 copies made!), but if there is ignation and nihilism, but underneath that is a core of amazing beauty and romance, packaged in production so slathered with carefully crafted reverb and drum patterns Music | Bergrún Anna Hallsteinsdóttir you could use it as steak sauce. Another sadly forgotten gem. NÚMER NÚLL – ‘LYKILL AÐ SKÍRLÍFS- BELTI’ (2008) Gestur Guðnason, Númer Five Albums That Shaped Núll’s front man, once told me that making this album so wiped them out that they didn’t really have the energy or inclination Bergrún Anna Hallsteins- to do much promotion for it. This does not change the fact that it is one of the best guitar-pop albums I’ve ever heard. Gestur is dóttir’s Decade a music teacher, and you can hear it in his guitar playing: the album’s lead guitar runs Sigur Rós - Takk was even released. It goes without say- as a perfect satellite to its rhythm section, (2007) ing that this was one of the albums of smoothly winding its way through clever, rambunctious scales without ever breaking the new millenium. Takk received critical into an outright solo. I bet that last sentence acclaim here, there Mugison – Mugi- made the album sound boring, right? Well, and everywhere, went mama: Is This Mon- the surprising thing is that the album also gold and made every- key Music? (2004) rocks in an awesomely fun way. The songs one sit up and take notice... again. The multi-talented are simple, gutsy and inventive without being pretentious, and the sound is that perfect FM Belfast - How To Mugisson has influ- combination of lo-fi garage and hi-fi power. Make Friends ence near and far and Will they ever make another album? Prob- (2008) his 2004 album permanently placed him ably not, but that’s fine: this one is all they’ll An album that has on the music map. ever need. been known to cause GUSGUS – 24/7 (2009) I didn’t really get Bergrún Anna Hallsteinsdóttir’s Fa- people to actually run this album when it first came out last year. vourite Albums Of 2010 I mean, who makes a dance record with six down the street in their underwear. If 1. Orphic Oxtra – Orphic Oxtra tracks, all of them really long? And it’s all de- this isn't music with a positive influence They brought the sound of the Balkans pressing; you can’t party to this. then İ don't know what is. to Iceland and injected the music scene Then this summer, I drove to Mývatn Emiliana Torrini – with a much-needed dose of difference. (about 300 miles away) to pick up my girl- Fisherman’s Woman 2. Ólafur Arnalds – ‘And they have friend, and as she desperately wanted to get the fuck out of there, we drove back over- (2005) escaped the weight of darkness’ Ólafur Arnalds wins at creating classical night. It was foggy and dark, I mean really, Fisherman’s Woman really dark. We put this album in the CD music that the kids can appreciate. made folk-lovers all player, and then I got it. This is not a dance 3. Retro Stefson – Kimbabwe album. This shit is epic. It’s the best thing over sit up and take Kimbawe brought some much needed notice and is just a really sweet album they’ve ever put out. It soars delay-drenched positivity to these dark times. into eternity with its synths and sultry, in general. 4. Hjaltalín og Sinfó – Alpanon ethereal vocals, and even though two of the Agent Fresco – The symphony/band combo took Hjal- songs clip the ten-minute mark, they’re still Lightbulb Universe talín’s sound to new places with Alpanon. too short; you never want them to end. We (2008) 5. Samúel Jón Samúelsson Big Band listened to it about five or six times on that Everyone knew the lyr- – Helvítis fokking fönk drive to Reykjavík. ics before the album They made the year that much funkier for Iceland as a whole. The Reykjavík Grapevine Ásmundur Ásmundsson is a visual artist and a writer. Until recently he wrote a Issue 1 — 2011 biweekly column for Icelandic Financial News. He has written for various publica- tions as well as shown his artwork, in Iceland and abroad. Útúrdúr just published 24 a collection of his speeches: Dear Friends, Collection of Speeches 2000 - 2010.

Art | Fine Art

The Decade I often think the re-shaping and rebuilding of Iceland is going slow and that little has changed, but looking Of Fine Arts back one can see that a lot of things have moved in the right direction, and that a lot growth is happening. As a matter of fact, the whole de- For me, our attempts at improving Words cade will surely be completely forgot- our democracy have stood out. This Ásmundur Ásmundsson ten in a few years, with few exceptions, year we’ve staged three elections—a and those are not exceptional because national referendum on IceSave that Photography of their artistic value, but because they is likely unprecedented in world his- Julia Staples are on permanent display, blocking our tory, municipal elections and then view. I am of course talking about the the Constitutional Assembly elec- Satanic monument of Viðey: Imagine tions, where we got to try person- Peace Tower by Yoko Ono, and the based elections for the first time. For I am deeply honoured to have the op- glass façade of Harpa Concert Hall and me the year was both good and hard. portunity to write for Reykjavík Grape- Conference Centre which covers the My family has prospered, but work vine. Not only because I am a great fan entire building and was designed by has been hard and often taxing. of rock and roll (and pop) music, but renowned visual artist Ólafur Elíasson also because I value foreigners. I am of in collaboration with the Danish archi- course not talking about guest workers tects of the building. The latter is a civil- We are still mid-collapse and the from Eastern Europe, whom I also value engineering scandal in the making, and system is still trying to defend itself and have great respect for as a group. it involves the Chinese and incompe- with all means at their disposal. But No, I am talking about you, dear reader, tent local civil engineers. The frontage it can’t for much longer; it is like a and perhaps your friends, if my intent has been built and torn down again at fluttering fish on dry land. Our bank- to do a good job pans out nicely. You least twice (by the Chinese) and only ing system was the first to collapse, have a big role to play in the future of God knows how it will end. But it can’t but more and more foundations are this great nation. It is my duty to write be a happy ending. You just watch! proving rickety. The National Church a favourable article about the Icelandic Now I must calm down; it was never is having a hard time, and our ad- art scene and I will do it for you, since my intention to let too much reality take aware reader might also say to himself and academia by canalizing how art is ministrative structures are shattered, we are depending on your moral sup- over this piece of writing, since I am or to his girlfriend that this article was produced, exhibited, seen and used.” as is revealed almost every day. The port, and I will do it for the rest of us, writing this as service to my country— scantily researched and consequently ‘Body Parts in Religion’ in Hallgrím- political party system as we know it because we need it. an image must be kept alive. The more I poorly written. To those people, we, skirkja Church, by Hannes Lárusson, is is also in the death throes, not only in To capture a candid and attractive think about it the more I am convinced the people of the Grapevine simply say: another censored exhibition. The show Iceland but the world over. Change gaze at the last decade of fine arts is that this image is first and foremost di- Don’t be ignorant! We firmly oppose the was shut down two days before its an- can be painful, but it is necessary. It a difficult chore. Not only because rected at the locals hanging in there, notion that history repeats itself, even nounced opening. When the church is our duty to guard the interests of time is short and money is scarce, but but that’s a whole different kettle of if we find communism’s favourite joke administrators and priests saw the invi- the people in the world—it has been because fine art is so huge and what fish. “first time as tragedy, the second time tation card bearing illustrations of vari- made very clear that neither the fi- happened before the total crash seems as farce” to be utterly hilarious. ous body parts, e.g. a breast, a penis, nancial sector nor the political class decades ago. I have faint memories of The Grapevine’s top five buttocks, and they eliminated the exhi- has any interest in that. openings and parties, some in the com- I must take a deep breath and deliver The decade’s top three bition. Some of us had been expectantly [Margrét Tryggvadóttir, MP, pany of good-looking celebrities (Óla- what I promised: a favourable article, We do believe in progress, at least waiting and preparing for the celebra- Hreyfingin] fur Elíasson, Hans Ulrich Obrist, Mr. an attractive gaze. If I had a stack of old when it comes to culture and fine tion of this event like a Christian waiting and Mrs. Barney, Baroness Francesca Grapevines I could simply leaf through arts. There are three art exhibitions, or for the Second Coming of Christ, thus von Hapsburg and Christoph Schlin- them and quote the talented and free should I say events that wrap up the de- the disenchantment was huge. This gensief (bless his soul)) and their local spirited artists on the pages, particu- cade in a peaceful an unrestricted way. happened just after the censorship of counterparts, but others in the com- Well, the year 2010 brought me the larly the multi-talented ones, the ones The funny thing is that they are all from ‘Koddu’, which was a double disgrace pany of wolves (could that be?). Luckily most happiest times of my life so far... with one foot in pop and/or rock and/or the latter half of 2010 and I didn’t see and a step back, especially since the I was living abroad during the height all the new people that entered my fashion. I don’t have that stack in front any of them and that is what makes this intelligentsia and the art world seemed of the great boom, so I missed out on life, my good friends and all the good of me, but with an imaginary stack I article unusual. either anesthetized or perfectly content most of the ordeal of the holy matri- times we had together... and winning can easily make a list of top five artists: ‘Koddu’ in Listasafn Árnesinga, with these occurrences. mony between art and business and the title Mr. Gay Iceland also brought Gabríela Friðriksdóttir, Ragnar Kjar- Hveragerði, a group exhibition of some Another example of the pinnacle of the hideous exhibitions it fashioned, a HUGE change to my life... a good tansson, Haraldur Jónsson, Egill Sæb- of the most prominent Icelandic artists the great culture that thrives in our area but I heard some rumours—none worth change :) jörnsson, Hrafnkell Sigurðsson and the (two are on the aforementioned Grape- of sway was a remarkable jamboree mentioning in a respectable publication vine top five list). The word “koddu” at the oldest hotel in Reykjavik, Hótel Icelandic Love Corporation (actually like ours. means an inviting “come along” in Ice- Borg. This is not another tragic example six). I think that list is as good as any, I have a good feeling about the next but I don’t have these artists’ imagina- landic; it has a soft and cuddly sound of censorship, but a success story of The Satanic monument of Viðey decade... my life has gotten so much tion to make profound or funny quotes to it. The exhibition, which drew its corporate sponsorship, the amalgama- I could try to remember a few impor- better the last few years, and I am coming out of their mouth off the pages title from the great tourism campaign tion between the stock of the fine arts, tant exhibitions and ponder on their focused on making it even better in of Reykjavík Grapevine. They do come “Inspired by Iceland,” was planned to the plebs of the fitness centres and the significance, but smiling faces keep the next years. With a strong mind highly recommended and have made be put up at the Listasafn Árnesinga, creatures of the night (what a night!). interrupting. I do have fond memories and determination, we can make an important mark on the Reykjavík Art Hveragerði but was censored out of the The only tragedy was how few could of Safn, a private art collection that was anything happen! Believe in yourself, scene. Thank you. museum on the grounds of visual ma- enjoy the shindig, since it was a one briefly open to the public in the begin- focus on the goal and succeed! :) Thank God this nation has pro- terial, text and methodology. Both the night only event. At least three artists ning of the decade, but I might be the [Vilhjálmur Þór Davíðsson, Mr. gressed in a linear fashion since day catalogue and the majority of the exhi- from the Reykjavík Grapevine top five only one. The owner of the private col- Gay Iceland 2010] one, but not in a cyclic eternal spi- bition material are ready for publication list showed their work in the beauti- lection, Mister Pétur Arason, was given ral shape of the second and the third and installation, but it remains to be ful suites of the classy old hotel. The one hundred million krónur from the world. Therefore we can easily assume seen if it will ever go up. The exhibition wingding was held to celebrate the first City of Reykjavík. But who cares now? that the best of the decade did in fact was meant to be “a succinct account of coming of Vitamin Water, a vigorous Today it is like Safn never existed, and take place in the year 2010. And the the relations between iconography and fluid developed by one of the greatest that’s how we want it. In the context of best is yet to come; 2011 will be the ideology in contemporary Iceland; a friends of Iceland, 50 Cent. The liquid is total economic collapse it is a corrup- pinnacle of our culture. Thus my re- mapping of contemporary aesthetics of produced by the Coca-Cola Company, tion scandal on a miniature scale (like membrance is not as important as an Icelandic cultural politics and address- owner of the trademark Vitamin Water. the collection, actually!). uninformed reader might think. The un- ing the central role of the state, market LearnLearn IcelandicIcelandic

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Ten Short New Year’s Speeches May Oral Gnarr Annualise? FUTURE Into The Future: By Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl matter of some concern, I assure you) Illustration by Inga María will be auctioned … going once, twice / Words and illustration by Kristín there just now? Just disappeared into Brynjarsdóttir … sold! to the Pescal Harbour Duchy Eiríksdóttir the soot, and there is another one. of Sæbraut (for two half-portions Once there was a pond right where you Municipal decree stardate 01012021-001 of delicious halibutt – two tails, in PERFECT 00.00 01.01. 2011 are standing now, lead-grey from pike -- January 1st, 2021. State anarcho- fact, fins intact, in tartar sauce with I’ll probably be in the taxi once The and the bridge across collapsed. surreo-separatist municipality of central potatoes and broccoli, yummy!) New Year arrives, it never comes as 06.00 01.01 2017 Laugavegur and the united TGIFs of the (My telephone seems to be ringing, / was planned for. From the edge of Children are the future, have you greater eurafrican kingdom. but I’m not answering. I’m not! No, no, the city you can hear the noise from looked into a tub of herring? Some still no. Busy, busy, busy. *Sigh* I wish I’d fireworks, but you just see them vanish wiggling in the pile but it’s just spasm. Citizens of love and the Tao! I beseech known politics was such a drudgery). TENSE up into reddish clouds. Or movements arriving here from you! Hark, hark! Hear, here! Lo, lo! And then some: as this is a greater 01.00 01.01 2012 the next life. What do we know? The Whiff! Feel! Taste! Orgasm! decree of glee than thus far we’ve The crystal dissolves in the palm of more the less, if you ask me. I always I write you now to say: Another permitted (the revolution must not We contacted a bunch of our most be- the hand. I can’t decide which party to meditate death at midnight. Grab your decade gone *poof!* with all its wars, stop at the local petting zoo), it is with loved local authors and asked them to attend and suddenly everyone is gone. mouth or you’ll come out. So many poverty and abundance in abundance – some sternness and severity (ha ha!) write short short stories for us with, on Hallgrímskirkja looks like a Japanese futures, one per crown and you can yay! Past rejoicing, you rejoicers-you, of that we now decree a “gleeful grump- the theme ‘Iceland and the next de- ghost slowly expanding its jaw. I regret barely catch a glint of pavement. holidays a’bountiful – we hope you’ve hinder”. The mosques of central cade’. Their mission, should they accept having eaten what I ate. 07.00 01.01 2018 had meals worthy of the tallest tales Laugavegur (as well as the prayer it, was to consider: “what’s in store for 02.00 01.01 2013 I have never had so much fun as right and presents in glittery packaging, booths at TGIFs worldwide) will now our island?” then examine their feelings No matter how I drink I stay the now. Now is great, now can always another winter, o ye of mostly carry mandatory cartoon commentary about that imagined future and deliver same, made from spirits but might as stay, just now, this is great. Nothing fashionable clothing – it is, alas (we on the prophet (and his terrorist them in prose form using no more than well be sober. It’s the holiday season. can take my attention away from this, might add), now time for more serious followers), the at-laughing of which 1200 words. This evening is always now, this is wonderful. business. As your incumbent mayoral will be equally mandatory (three times supposed to be so great Costumes? What a dignitarious “Gnarr” (dee harr harr), during the cleaning rituals). Laughter We are stunned that so many of our but it sucks as much each mistake. No one told I’m thoroughly empleased to announce may be rendered in the form of an favourites wound up participating, and time. The bombs are me this was a costume the latest in modern fads: slamic prayer-call, an adhan, but only doublestunned with the stories they the same. I should have party. Hopefully More rules! Better rules of greater if it is provably (beyond the slightest turned in. While they are surprisingly bought fireworks. My nobody is alone tonight, precision! doubt) of a humourous quality. (and disappointingly!) low on futuris- hands are useless and it’s or dying. Hopefully First of all, less service (not really No joke! (Funny, no?) tic cyberpunk sci-fi scenarios and cy- dangerous. everyone is just being a rule – more a “rule of thumb”, Nextly, I would like to start by borgs, we believe that they offer a clear 03.00 01.01 2014 born. Now is great. if you will), although this perhaps apologizing for using the word “bitch” window into our collective hopes and The sheets are clean. I 08.00 01.01 2019 goes without saying: We must make in a recent radio interview. As amends fears at the moment; solemn medita- haven’t stayed up this late Birds can keep the sacrifices for the common good, and I’ve forbidden the word (unless tions on a future that’s very unclear since 1993. The woman Island. This thing that even more so, for the individual good. pronounced with the utmost of lisps) (even unnerving). They are also all very at the dinner spoke so came from under the We must, that is to say, make sacrifices and any mention of “the incident”, entertaining and clever. Reserve some much about the lack of glacier can keep me. for the good, and not just some of the private or public. To those concerned time, read on and enjoy! vitamin-D. She wore a Family trees with small good (as in the past) but all of the good, (I’m looking at you, sisters!) you have beautiful necklace and the floors were bird houses and mutated cats fill the the absolute totality of the good. This is my sincerest “oops”. I was speaking as covered with mottled paper strings fox holes. You get used to the changes not a joke. We do not make fun of the an artist, a true surrealist, and meant from crackers but I can’t recall any before you notice them. Like that good. Unreproachable, we are, in no nothing by it. Nothing at all. Your fireworks. Rickets, depression, bowed through the centuries, may they keep jest whatsoever. ideologies disgust me and I’d never limbs, fatigue and skeletal deformities. on coming. Cheers to the dinosaur. Hah, got ya! (No, really, we’re totally sink to that level. I’m sorry already, get 04.00 01.01 2015 Faith in science is a clown. serious). a life. The teenagers know nothing of the 09.00 01.01 2020 As a follow-up to the successful I probably need not re-mention that last century. They breathe like lap I can’t believe I’m still up. Why do transaction of city concrete to the this is a tough job, I am under a lot dogs, with their sleepy eyes and always I always start the New Year in total unlaughably retro-capitalistic suburbs of pressure. I am just a normal guy, I sincere; they mean everything they chaos? Every time I’m afraid to miss (for which we received an abundance of am no “tough cookie”, and cannot be say. We’ll take irony with us to the something my life goes to the trash. extremely extreme nail-polish remover, expected to be a Superman nor am grave. Forgotten like some obsolete Eyes filled with logs. Oxygen comes traded with the Commonwealth I, as some of the most humourless technology. They are just not interested through the tiny holes, I’d ask for gills of northeastern Buenos Aires for fuddy-duddies amongst you have in objectivity. on my shoulder blades much rather 250 grand frappucinos (including deigned to imply, a super-villain – 05.00 01.01 2016 than wings. I’m so wasted. Tomorrow disposable stir-spoons)) it has been and to tell you the truth I’m, like, Photo of Earth projected on the moon, I’ll ask forgiveness. Tomorrow is unanimously decided, within the totally tired of your Predator-jokes no need for mirrors anymore, if you already here. I’ll never get to bed. Now municipal council, that the bicycle (your sense of humour, btw, is highly know what I mean. Where do they get was just then, God, existence can be so paths on upper Laugavegur (strictly unprofessional – this is a skill, people, all this information? Did anyone else confusing. Cheers. speaking the property of our it needs to be learned) They are so notice a tiny shadow that ran across theocratical neighbour municipality, a ten years ago it’s not funny. Not even

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By Óttar Martin Norðfjörð about the danger upon Illustration by Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir humanity, quoting the article, trying to convince others, only William, a small man of great inner a handful listened. The few proportions, fell through the thin air. created a group with William He had stopped screaming. He had as its front man. However, stop trying to avoid the inevitable. The the general public saw them green ground beneath him grew ever as eccentrics, calling them bigger as window after window passed fanatics. They were truly a him with rapid speed. Soon he would laughing-stock for the first crash and die. Soon his life would be years. over. But no one was laughing As William soared through the air now. Not that it mattered. It like a broken bird, he tried to recall was too late. After the first why he was here, falling midst in event occurred everything formless space. Suddenly the last years changed dramatically. became clear, every single thing that Initially people tried to had led to William’s fall from Iceland’s rationalise the event, but no only skyscraper. This fall he was stuck one could hide from the truth. in now, seeing the green ground and The truth eventually caught sidewalk beneath him moving closer up with people in 2016, more and closer with every passing second. than five years after William Although his body fell with ever had first met Laura and read in the so-not-funny-it’s-funny way of Gulags we despise. increasing speed, and the wind blew her article. But by 2016 it was funny. Lastly, thusly: At a time like this, relentlessly, making his eyes water, too late. By then everything [ANGRY DIATRIBE SELF- where years meet at the apex of his ears numb, he managed to recall that had happened was CENSORED] increased communal blood pressures, the beginning of his troubles. It was irreversible. I’ve had time to mull this over. I’m while the burned sticks of yesteryear all because of a small article, which Also William’s fall, which sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. are still gliding on the nocturnal ashes described the events to come in detail, seemed never ending. He From the bottom of my heart. The of party-town – and the world smells and written by a beautiful woman hadn’t been pushed. He had depths of my soul. I have now referred like Beirut in heat – it is customary to named Laura. jumped, but still it wasn’t his to the Bhagavad Gita and truly you are reflect upon past passed actions and Laura. Her name was like a decision. Laura could as easily image stayed with William wherever entitled to your criticism and your own render judgment, or to paraphrase the poisoned arrow that hit his heart. have pushed him. It was their meeting he went. Even now, as he fell from the sense of humour. I’ve already deleted jolliest of men (in a jovial sort of glee, William had first met Laura at and her article that had led him here. sky, soon hitting the ground, Laura the worst of it, as it was below me. and yet admittedly paranoia-inducing): a New Year’s Eve party in 2010. He But all things considered, William was with him, torturing him the last I have just [insert appropriate verb] we know if you’ve been good or bad, remembered the enthusiasm. Everyone wasn’t sad although his life would seconds of his existence. smoking again, and am a bit on the so be good for goodness’ sake (and if was celebrating the end of the first soon come to a full stop. He knew The year 2020 would soon come nervy side. I shall henceforth receive not for goodness’ sake, then for the decade, the beginning of the next one, death was an escape. A cowardly move, to an end. William wouldn’t be here your scorn as the humble vessel that I absolute totality of goodness’ sake). Mind with hopes of a better world finally some would perhaps say. He had to witness it. His dead body would lie remain, despite life-long adversities as you, that is also a rule. There’ll be achieved. Then disaster struck in the decided to avoid the problem upon the underneath the ground, in a wooden punker, author, sugarcube, business more to come, and I’ll relay them all in first weeks of 2011. world by jumping. box. But William didn’t need to see executive, comedian, artist, celebrity good time. But no one noticed at first. There hadn’t been the slightest the decade end. He knew how it would and now mayoral entity. Ah, the good times! Remember the Laura’s article was short and seemed doubt in William’s mind that this was end. Laura had described it in her I shall not let the slings and arrows good times? How we wish we all were insignificant. If only people hadn’t the right decision. Not when he went article. Everything she had written of outrageousness hurt me! young. be too caught up in their own ways. out this morning, kissing his wife and had come true. William was sure True individuals of spiritual Hope&Pray, Hope&Pray, If only people would have understood two daughters in their sleep. Not when the decade would end as Laura had means must set themselves above the Hope&Pray, the puny article, which later on—years he walked calmly up each and every predicted. That’s why he had jumped. quotidian bicker of petty grievances. (and don’t forget to thank God later—would read as an omen for the step up the skyscraper. Not when he That’s why he was now falling. Ooooommmmm. Ooooooommmmm. it’s Friday, as approved by our decade to come. stood at the top, viewing the city, the William opened his eyes. The I still feel obliged to mention that sponsors). William was one of few who read mountains, the sun coming up and concrete sidewalk was inches away. the municipal council is not entirely Yours truly (lol), the article, frightfully realising the the calm sea everyone around him. He The green grass reminded him of in agreement on this subject, as horror around the corner. The only had felt at ease for the first time in ten past springs, of beautiful childhood apparently the surrealist manifesto has Herbert Friðbert Albertsson reason he read it was Laura. At the years. memories. William opened his arms proven largely incompatible with the Honourable Gnarr of the state New Year’s party she had mentioned The sidewalk was near, also the and hugged the earth. Bhagavad Gita, as well as the teachings anarcho-surreo-separatist the article to William, stating that it green grass, which William could now of St. Paul, whose advice we seek on a municipality of central Laugavegur “would change everything”. smell. He closed his eyes. Laura was weekly basis (not personally, of course, and the united TGIFs of the greater How true, William thought while there, behind his eyelids, waiting for but in the “Bible”). But then Breton eurafrican kingdom. falling through the sky like a plane out him. He had no idea where she hid in was a communist, like Stalin, whose of fuel. Although he started preaching the world, maybe she was dead, but her

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By Guðrún Eva Mínervudóttir started seeing another, and now he suddenly moved away and left her in Illustration by Inga María was newly started on the third. the bland, inbred homogeneity. She Brynjarsdóttir It was Ben’s birthday next week. remembered it as worse than boring. The new girlfriend would probably It was a watery soup of over-used genes The perfect gift was a personal one, give him something well thought out and paranoid politics. It was not just Aldís believed, but not too personal. and perfect. Aldís shook her head and dull and grey, but positively unhealthy. A gift that showed the giver knew tried to divert her thoughts by focusing Nothing came out of it other than something about the receiver’s tastes on something neutral. The sidewalk. narrow-minded bullying disguised as while at the same time providing an But the kerbstone indirectly reminded “common sense”. unexpected addition; something that her of Ben. Because of a news story Twenty years ago, her weekends would expand his world. A luxury that he had read out loud for her on a had consisted of endless drives item, but in a price range that would coffee break, about how city officials cruising down Laugavegur with her not betray any ulterior motive. had been criticised for leaving stacks girlfriends. All of them sporting fresh Aldís strolled up Bankastræti of loose kerbstones beside a freshly laid driver’s licenses, all of them referred to and Laugavegur in the pleasant fall sidewalk. They were said to be inviting as “ham”, because they were pink and weather, treading by clothing racks, danger by leaving ‘potential blunt they glistened. Laugavegur had long clearance sales and food stands. The instruments’ lying around for anyone since been turned into a pedestrian- colourful crowd of people was shaded to pick up and use, and what's more, only street, and the ham-look had in certain places by yellowing tree so close to the city’s watering holes, transformed into a fringe culture crowns, some of which towered over whence intoxicated crowds flowed after mostly connected with prostitution sat behind a small counter. Exactly, Aldís replied and feigned the houses. nights of heavy drinking. and drug abuse. Reykjavík’s main Can I help you? she called out in an interest in the lamps surrounding Excuse me, she said as she bumped Ben thought that mentioning shopping street, which used to be French-accented English. her as she made her way towards the into a black-haired woman who this was an embarrassing affront to quiet except for special occasions, was I don’t know, Aldís shouted back. exit. pulled a cart of handmade candies. humanity’s unspoken agreement to now teeming with life every day of the I’m just looking for the perfect gift, she This one is only 1500, the woman She paused and watched the cart as it pretend civilization was more deeply week, and the merchandise on offer added and gave out an embarrassed said and pointed to a lamp of white, delicately wobbled with the woman's rooted than it actually is. crowded the sidewalks and flowed into laugh. sandblasted glass. every step and she considered how she Have they gone mad? he had the side streets. Who for? asked the woman? Aldís thought her voice sounded usually wanted things that perished. laughingly exclaimed. You can’t say The thought of which made A friend, Aldís replied and curt and angry, but maybe the woman Soaps, cheeses, coffee, candles, oils that sort of thing out loud! We need to Aldís aware that she had been approached the counter, where the had only raised her voice because Aldís and spices. But that sort of gift was not keep on pretending if we are to keep wandering around for half an hour woman sat with a cup of coffee and a was now further away. suitable now. In this case, she did have our faith in democracy! without entering a single shop. tablet computer. The woman, who had She hurried down the stairs and an ulterior motive, something beyond Aldís couldn’t speak, she was She was mesmerised by the vibrant appeared quite plain from afar, was was glad to be under the open sky that pure warmth of friendship which laughing so hard. Ben’s news atmosphere. And the omnipresent wearing a tight, low-cut one piece and again. She felt as if she had been in her mind characterized the perfect commentary always made her smell of food, which nowadays brought was heavily made up, as if she had just exposed. She saw herself all too clearly gift. Aldís wanted to give something laugh. She even laughed now, as she to mind actual big cities. It made her stepped off some stage. She wore fake, now; a petit-bourgeois wannabe that would serve as a reminder of her remembered it. At the same time, feel almost happy. A little girl, holding glittery eyelashes. cosmopolitan. A pathetic and scared own existence. She wanted to occupy a she felt a familiar jab of nervous fear, her mother’s hand, smiled to Aldís and Aldís became unnerved. She little person looking for the perfect space in the recipient’s mind. something she had inherited from her Aldís smiled back. pointed to a lamp at random and asked: birthday present for a man who was The gift was intended for a man conservative parents. The inheritance A freestanding sign pointed to a How much? almost certainly at this very moment named Ben who worked with her she was continually trying to exorcise lamp store on the second floor, above 7900 Euros, the woman replied. doting on his girlfriend—without in the sorting facility. Along with away. She wanted to believe that all the a small but popular falafel hut. She That’s too much, Aldís responded. ever considering that Aldís might a few others, they oversaw an army exotic people who surrounded her were squeezed past a roomful of patrons The lamp was made of glass, shaped have a life outside of the workplace. of youngsters that sorted recyclable trustworthy, but she could never get waiting to be served and climbed up a like a mushroom, the amber hat She went limp, she couldn’t move or consumer plastics into seven different rid of the feeling that people in general narrow staircase in the back. covered in coloured gemstones like decide whether to soldier on and keep categories based on the small were merely a rabble, and even if they The shop was roomy, but the cake sprinkles. searching or give up and go home. embossed markings they bore. temporarily toed the line, that didn’t space appeared cramped because The stones are semi-precious, from A Thai ladyboy gently grabbed her Ben was talkative and boisterous, mean everything was safe. the selection of lamps was so China, the woman remarked as she arm and to her abject horror offered short, portly, with big hands and a Still, she could never envision overwhelming. There were lava lamps nodded to Aldís. Carefully, as if she his services. Hi sexy mama, he quietly quick laugh. Aldís had been in love turning back the developments of the surrounded by crystal chandeliers. were worried about her eyelashes or said. Want a date? with him ever since he began working last twenty years or so. She shuddered Antiques mixed with new items. lip-gloss. A lamp makes a beautiful gift at the plant. He had a girlfriend at the at thought of how her life would be Lampshades of silk, leather, vinyl and for a friend. Symbolic. time. He had broken up with her and if three million “new” Icelanders glass. At the back of the store a woman

The Gates

By Haukur Már Helgason from all classes, all families, with all honey. What is that fantasy? early ‘70s. Boy, did things get out of between an Icelandic woman and a Illustration by Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir sorts of different background, kept – Daddy, we've been through this hand! Not only the ideological invasion foreign man is rape, no matter how the least fortunate bulls away from so often. that we have spoken of so often—but consensual it appears to both. Not – Clubs and bars in Iceland have our most precious cows. This is our – That's because it is important at the same time the U.S. government merely in the sense that the man always been run by members of the most valuable natural resource, the sweetie. What is the fantasy of a better gave in to pressure from its media and thereby exploits the female's lack of Progressive party. gene pool. When foreign elements life? opened the gates, our gates, for their defence and judgement, but more – Dad! tried to spoil it, men would take care – The illusion that the world so-called 'mixed races' policy. Which is seriously, on a deeper level, it is the – Listen, this is important. Your of it. That goes for the lax, liberal outside Iceland has better things to precisely not policy, but what? What's rape of the nation itself. Such acts mother thinks you're too young, but periods. Different circumstances call offer than life as it is, the illusion the opposite of order? violently rip apart the very material it is important that I tell you about for different measures. In the 19th that happiness is somewhere else and —Chaos, daddy. we are woven of. Penetration, in these things early enough. About century when hundreds of people that it can be achieved by giving in, —Chaos. And at the same time such cases, is invasion. It not only management. You will not learn gathered to form towns for the first through moral laxness. they re-baptized every ambition for resembles, but fundamentally is, a this at school. The Progressive party time, this was met with an absolute, – Correct. And what does that control and order as 'violence'. All sorts terrorist act. has always been concerned with nationwide dance-verbot—which fantasy make of women? of derogatory terms were invented Just imagine, if you had black skin, the preservation of our nation. Like lasted for a hundred years. When that – The fantasy of happiness makes for those of us who feel responsible brown eyes, curly hair—if your parents all regulation, this management is ban lifted, our sages banned alcohol. all women prostitutes. for the good of others. Management spoke some ali-baba-language, if achieved by controlling what is open You see: open and close. If you want – Perfect, sweetie. An A+. So escaped into the shadows. Spacious Iceland had fallen into the same pit as and what is closed. Open. Closed. to keep a gate, you must first raise now, then, we had the Situation. The men's rooms became vital for the our sorry neighbouring countries and Farmers once took care of these a wall—this is the only secret of government, of course, demanded that prolongation of our national existence. fed you shish kebab for breakfast—you things. What have I told you about all effective management. A wall and a there would be no Negroes among the Now, darling, if this was an ideal would not be you. You would not be my things on earth? gate. Ban beer, sell moonshine. And military personnel. That's not racism world, I would not be telling you this. dear little Ásdís. You would simply not – All things on earth make sense. now that alcohol and dancing are but what honey? In an ideal world it is the privilege of exist. Likewise, had my own mother – That's it. There is always a reason allowed, smoking is banned. You see – That's not racism, but national women not to have to fill their pretty fallen during the Situation, I would not why things are the way they are. No the pattern, right? Now, I have told you integrity. heads with everything that men do exist. So much is at stake, precious. one profession realises the significance about the Situation—tell daddy what – That's right. to protect them. In an ideal world And now, we have another Situation. of leading a cow under a bull as the Situation was about. Now, the it is woman's privilege to believe in The enemy is constantly by the gates. naturally as farmers. What today is – The Situation was when the Progressive happiness—and man's duty to play That is what they call globalization. seen as chaotic outbursts of 'violence' British and American soldiers party ran Santa Claus. Women do not want to What will then be our gate policy? in the city centre has never been in the lured the weakest among all the know and they should not have to – Keep them closed, daddy. least chaotic. That so-called 'violence' Icelandic women... important know about these things. However, – Keep your gates closed. That's it. is a vital part of a delicate set of – Weakest how? clubs in this world of ours is less than ideal, The world's finest young men are all manoeuvres and interferences during – Psychologically Reykjavík I'm afraid. And I am less than certain right here, born to the world's finest negotiations of possible procreation. and morally weakest, after the that there will always be men around mothers, bred in the world's cleanest This history has not been written, and lured them into sin, by war, and to keep you from harm's way. Daddy country. Daddy loves his little Icelandic possibly it will only ever be passed on offering them chewing got things only wants what is best for you, you angel so much. And one day you as oral heritage. So listen carefully— gum, nylon stockings and more know that, right? will love your children, too. You just, one day you will want to tell your cigarettes. or less – Of course I do, daddy. you have to take care, when the time children this story, and hopefully you – And what? under – Now, then, listen very carefully: comes, that your children will really will have your own chapter to add to – And music. control when an intruder attempts to seduce be your children, and not some other it. Now, at the 20th century county – And? again, an Icelandic woman, no matter how children, alien to their own mother balls, informal groups of attentive, – And... money. until polite and gentle, no matter how and her family. You understand? unselfish guardians of integrity took – And the the humorous and respectful he may care that no undesired goo would be fantasy of a seem, or even genuinely attractive, mixed in our genetic pool. In a rare better life. such attempts are and always will be display of national solidarity, men That's right attempted rape. Sexual intercourse Strength-Power-Endurance Because it works !

HVÍTA HÚSIÐ / SÍA – 09–0223 HVÍTA LAUGAVEGUR 44 & KRINGLAN The Best Selection of Entertainment

TEL. 591 5300 · WWW.SKIFAN.IS The Reykjavík Grapevine Magnús is a economic historian. He worked for the Special Investigative Com- Issue 1 — 2011 mittee and during the past year he has taught at Bifröst University. He holds a MA degree from the University of Minnesota, and is currently working on a PhD 30 dissertation.

Decades | Magnús Sveinn Helgason The Decade Of Failure

While history—meaning: welcomed these immigrants. By the in the headlights, without a clue as to the left wing government, which prom- ‘the past’—does not change, end of the decade, Reykjavík authori- what to do when they were faced with ised to protect the homes and families, history—meaning: ‘the nar- ties had even acknowledged that peo- tough choices. Others, bursting with has been unable to come up with a Business has been good this year. ration of past events’—does ple from other cultures had the right to arrogance and delusion, like former comprehensive plan to help the public, Of course, it has not been as good in fact change. This is because we view construct their own houses of worship, Minister for Foreign Affairs Ingibjörg and no concrete steps have been taken as it was a few years ago [before the history through the lens of the present. finally granting the nation’s small Mus- Sólrún Gísladóttir, declaring that those to increase social justice. crash], but it has still been good and As events unfold, the meaning and sig- lim community the right to build their who dared protest the inaction and I can’t complain. I don’t have any ma- nificance of the past changes. And be- own mosque. incompetence of politicians were “not Lessons learned jor problems, just the usual hassle of cause our view of the past changes we The decade was also important the nation.” Davíð Oddsson refusing to This is not all bad, of course. People importing foreign food products, but constantly need to change our history in Icelandic cultural history. The arts step down from the chair of the Cen- have learned the hard way that it is im- it’s like this everywhere. [Regarding textbooks. flourished and Icelandic musicians en- tral Bank. The managers of Kaupthing possible to build permanent prosperity the last year], everything has been So, it is pretty hard to predict how joyed considerable success both in Eu- contemptuously declaring that they had for an entire society on speculation, okay and business has been just any event, let alone a whole decade, rope and America. absolutely nothing to apologise for. market manipulation and corporate fine…very fine. will be remembered. Because we do All in all, Iceland in 2010 is far more raiding. not know what the future holds, or what cosmopolitan than it was in 2000. A decade of squandered trust Icelanders have also learned impor- academic fads will reign among future Trust is obviously important for all so- tant modesty. But at a steep price. His- I hope that everything will be alright historians, it is exceedingly difficult to A decade of failure cieties. But too much trust, as well as torically, Icelanders have been plagued in the next years. I hope. As long as say with any certainty how future his- However important these developments undeserved trust, is dangerous, and I by a certain mix of insecurity and self- things go well and I can work, I don’t torians will judge this first decade of are, I would argue that none of them is would argue that one of the greatest importance. During the boom years the think about much except for con- the 21st century. Still, even if we lack as important as the colossal, utter and weaknesses of Icelandic society at the insecurity was replaced by arrogance, tinuing to work. I am happy [with the the necessary hindsight of history, we inexcusable failure of the Icelandic eco- beginning of the decade was excess creating a poisonous certainty and present situation] and I am positive can make some pretty good educated nomic miracle, which certainly is the trust: excess trust in politicians, busi- delusions of grandeur that fuelled the about the future. guesses. defining event of the decade. The neo- ness leaders and the market ideology. Icelandic financial bubble. As the bub- [Linda Lek Theiojanthuk, Propri- liberal experiment of creating prosper- One of the main reasons for the pro- ble burst, people realised that Iceland etor, Mai Tai] A decade of progress ity by slashing taxes and regulations in tests that began in the fall of 2008 is the was not the centre of the universe. To The first decade of the 21st century order to turn Iceland into some sort of public’s realisation that the elites, both paraphrase the Borat-esque mangled in Iceland will most certainly be re- business friendly tax haven and global political and economic, had betrayed Icelandic of the first lady: Iceland is membered as a decade of progress financial centre finally ended with the the trust that they had enjoyed. certainly not “the most big country in and achievement by those future his- complete collapse of 2008. In fact, this appears to be part of the world” (stórasta land í heimi). torians who will emphasize social and The reason the public went along a global pattern: everywhere, trust in Finally, Icelanders have also learned cultural history. Important milestones with this experiment in the first place politicians and business leaders has that protest can be effective. It is not so were met in the history of human rights was that Icelanders had been led to collapsed. Everywhere the reason is the long ago, that it was a commonly held and equality, most recently with the believe they lived in a country charac- same. The economic failure and finan- belief that Icelanders were somehow 2010 law, which gives gay couples the terised by fair play, equality and—above cial collapse, caused by reckless finan- genetically incapable of political pro- right to marry. Another milestone was all—honesty. Iceland was ranked as the ciers and complacent politicians, are test. Groups like Saving Iceland were reached in 2009 when Jóhanna Sig- least corrupt society in the world and not the primary reason—the real reason vilified and political activists were con- urðardóttir became the first woman to Icelanders believed they were gov- is that people feel they were betrayed sidered suspect. The financial collapse serve as Prime Minister of Iceland and erned by honest politicians and that by their elites. rekindled a spirit of political engage- the first openly gay person to serve as their businessmen were equally hard- During the bubble, people tolerated ment that had all but died out during a PM anywhere. An important step in working and honest. growing income inequality because the bubble. world history. The collapse and its aftermath they were promised that the wealth One can hope that this newfound Also, Iceland became a truly multi- showed Icelanders that this had been would trickle down. It turned out the political engagement and activism will cultural society as large numbers of a mirage. The bankers, hailed as fi- public was not allowed to share in the lead to more democratic politics and foreigners, primarily Eastern Europe- nancial wunderkinder were actually wealth, only the debts, because when more responsive politicians. ans, migrated to Iceland in search of looters. The politicians incompetent the crash came, the public was forced work. And despite the occasional flar- morons. Like the hapless Minister of to shoulder the cost of bailing out the ing up of xenophobia, Icelandic society Economic Affairs, caught like a deer speculators. To make matters worse,

Drama | Íris Erlingsdóttir Total Drama Island Icelanders who lived to buy new cars every year, to indulge landic voters showed little interest in ally accepted pillars of societal happi- trol of our country from the wolves. No through the first decade of in shopping sprees abroad or to take the recent elections to the Constitu- ness include: promotion of sustainable one has accepted responsibility for the the 21st century found it to tropical vacations every few months. tional Assembly. Although it was the development, preservation and promo- abuses and crimes that culminated in be the most interesting, and After years during which there was es- policies of the Independence Party that tion of cultural values, conservation of the kreppa, and the courts have not the most infuriating, epoch in our his- sentially no unemployment and plenty opened the door to the massive abuses the natural environment and establish- held anyone liable for their blatant in- tory. We experienced the highest highs of foreigners to perform shit jobs, we we witnessed, and its leaders who fa- ment of good governance. competence, negligence, and corrup- and the lowest lows. We imagined our- are traumatized by the permanent loss cilitated and participated in the finan- The first three of these pillars are tion. The thieves have kept their riches, selves to be the richest people in the of high-paying jobs at the banks and cial fraud, the unrepentant IP remains largely dependent on the fourth pillar— and the rest of us are more subjugated world, and then saw our illusory gains long periods of scrambling to just get Iceland’s single largest political party. good governance—and on this measure than ever. vanish in the span of a few days. We be- by. Will the next decade be any better? I am not optimistic. Bertrand de Jouve- The ultimate problem is ourselves. lieved our leaders were supremely People were seduced by govern- Although Iceland’s prosperity is largely nel observed that “a society of sheep We learned the price of everything, but competent and just then discovered the ment guarantees and low interest rates dependent on that of the much larger must in time beget a government of the value of nothing. We learned much depths of their incompetence and cor- to purchase outrageously expensive economies in America and Europe, we wolves.” Other than that brief, glorious about ourselves, and then deliberately ruption. homes, only to see their incomes plum- retain the power to determine our own moment in January 2008 when popu- exorcised those lessons from our col- I suspect that statistically, we are met and the effective interest rates rise, happiness. Numerous studies have lar protests forced the resignations lective memory. Þetta reddast allt. Until better off financially in 2010 than we essentially relegating them to the sta- shown that the level of a nation’s hap- of Geir Haarde’s government, nothing our attitude changes, nothing else will. were in 2000, but it doesn’t feel that tus of indentured servants. piness, once its people’s basic needs that I’ve seen over the past couple of way. Having tasted the good life, we feel Although it is obvious that our sys- have been assured, does not correlate years indicates that we are willing to impoverished by our sudden inability tem of government has failed us, Ice- strongly to its wealth. The four gener- do anything meaningful to wrest con-

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STUFFED WITH STUFF ISSUE 1 YOUR FREE COPY

PAGE 10 Some say our greatest loss is our reputation as an honest and trustworthy people. Because in our case, we did not suffer an attack from an outside enemy. In our case the enemy came from within. Former Foreign Affairs Minister Jón Baldvin Hannibalsson knows his enemies

Page 6 Moral consciousness is a feeling, and the trust it creates is a feeling also. And if feelings live in the heart then our hearts are being torn out, along with our liver and lungs. Elísabet Jökulsdóttir wonders about where we’re at

Page 24 Thank God this nation has progressed in a linear fashion since day one, but not in a cyclic eternal spiral shape of the second and the third world. Therefore we can easily assume that the best of the decade did in fact take place in the year 2010. Ásmundur Ásmundsson sums up Icelandic art in the last decade

PAGE 8 Iceland saw three elections in 2010. Vot- ers failed all of them. Student Hilmar Magnússon is not amused

Page 6 I think this will be the decade of less crap and more fun and creative thought. Best Party CEO Heiða Kristín Helgadóttir kind of is

PAGE 21 I think I know where the confidence and swagger came from. Davíð Oddsson. Hard to explain how adored he was, other than to say Davíð is to economic policy as Ronald Reagan is to nuclear policy. Bart Cameron considers Icelandic swagger, good and bad