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With Fascinating Wines Coming from the Unlikeliest of Places, 2015 Has

With Fascinating Wines Coming from the Unlikeliest of Places, 2015 Has

YEAR OF

With fascinating coming from the unlikeliest of places, 2015 has DISCOVERYbecome the Year of Discovery in , with retailers in the vital position as gatekeepers between curious drinkers and bold new regions and BY CHRISTY CANTERBURY MW / KRISTEN BIELER / W. R. TISH Chateau Kamnik funny thing happened on the way to 2016: Buoyed by two decades of steady growth in wine consumption, Americans are—finally(?)—getting it. After decades of wine suppliers, merchants and critics alike exhorting people to “drink what you like,” people are doing just that. AConsider some of the most dynamic wine-category upswings of late—Moscato, , Prosecco and Red Blends. What they have in common is simple, pure and powerful: they are being driven by consumers’ tastes. Not by critics’ ratings. Sure, Cab and Chard are still ringing up sales, but so many other grapes and regions have entered Americans’ comfort zone. In Italy, think Sicily, Alto Adige and Campania. In France, the Loire, the MACEDONIA Rhône and the South of France are stirring more emotions than Macedonia, a country the size of Alabama, has made wine for Bordeaux. In Spain, Garnacha has jumped in recognition. Wines over 400 years, but its sprint to modern-day fame began just from New Zealand, Greece, Austria, South Africa and Portugal 15 years ago. are on the tips of wine drinkers’ tongues. In California, blends and The Bovin, established in 1998—seven years after the offbeat varietals are what have drinkers buzzing, as well as regions country’s split with Yugoslavia—changed the paradigm. Bovin outside Napa and Sonoma; and Washington, Oregon and New pushed high quality to the bleeding edge and then charged six York’s wine industries continue to hum. times more than average for its Nailing wine trends to a specific year can be tricky, but we wines. Almost astonishingly, believe 2015 is a watershed year for American wine culture: wine lovers paid up. Encouraged Consumers’ curiosity, interest and open-mindedness on one hand by the prospects of the quality- are converging with wine’s incredibly vibrant and creative supply profit combo, more side on the other. The result is that 2015 is revealing itself as the started appearing. Today, there Year of Discovery. are about 60. Interestingly, wine export has always been a focus Making The Connection for Macedonia; 85% to 95% of America’s embrace of wine has never been more adventurous. production is exported. That’s And in turn, the Retailer has never been more vital. Wine quite a bit of juice, considering merchants select and present wines from the fast-morphing global Macedonia is the world’s market, communicating the relative style, value and merit of all 25th largest producer, making those new grapes, places and brands. Simply put, they connect approximately half the wine as that ever-expanding universe to those increasingly open-minded New Zealand does. wine drinkers. Indigenous varieties are where it’s at. The black grapes Vranec To mark this Year of Discovery, this article aims to capture and Krastosija and the white grapes Smederevka, Zilavka and how and why some of today’s most exciting wines are emerging Temjanika are the highlights. Leading the pack is Vranec, whose from the least expected places—from Central and Eastern Europe name means “Black Stallion.” It makes seriously dark wines with to pockets in the Mediterranean and the Middle East, even from mouth-watering acidity and structuring tannins that help it age established regions where new techniques are in play. well. Krastosija, kin to and Primitivo, is jet Eager to expose their wines to a wider audience to carve out black with gobs of viscosity. Both grapes can easily attain a niche in the global wine market, these producers have teamed 15-17% alcohol, but they have other structural elements up with a growing tier of inspired, specialty importers. While to keep their wines in balance. Similarly, the dominant distribution is limited, and many of these wines may always reside white, Smederevka, can be heady, too, though it’s often in the realm of “esoterica,” they are important puzzle pieces for a not noticed given the wine’s racy acidity. The citrusy comprehensive understanding of our global wine tradition. They Zilavka (Furmint in Hungary) and floral Temjanika are ideal for adding fresh appeal and differentiation to a wine exude charm in any of their variations, from crisply program, and in many cases represent unparalleled value. These dry to lightly sweet. wines won’t be appearing on supermarket shelves any time soon— all the more reason that independent merchants should seek them IMPORTANT PRODUCERS: Bovin, Chateau Kamnik, Stobi, out now, ahead of the curve. Popov, Tikves and Vinar OPPOSITE: CHATEAU KAMNIK CELLARS COURTESY OF CHATEAU KAMNIK WINERY / GLASSES COURTESY OF BIVB / IBANEZ A. / BOTTOM IMAGE COURTESY BIVB / MONNIER H. / THIS PAGE: EXTERIOR COURTESY OF CHATEAU KAMNIK WINERY KAMNIK WINERY / GLASSES EXTERIOR COURTESY OF CHATEAU KAMNIK COURTESY OF BIVB / IBANEZ A. / BOTTOM CELLARS COURTESY OF CHATEAU IMAGE COURTESY BIVB / MONNIER H. THIS PAGE: KAMNIK OPPOSITE: CHATEAU Chateau YEAR OF DISCOVERY

CORSICA previously (and usually large but equally Corsica is surely better known as quality-driven) wineries to create a unique Napoleon’s birthplace and for “Europe’s wine culture reinforced by oenotourism, Hardest Hiking Trail”, the GR 20, than winery hotels and fine restaurants. In the for wine. spirit of Ataturk, Turkey’s founder who However, this staunchly proud decreed the re-establishment of wine pro- Mediterranean island that makes duction post-, these win- but 1% of France’s production boasts eries persist in their work. Yet, today they 264 producers and 104 independent are turning more and more to markets wineries. Quality has been on the rise abroad given the touchy attitude toward for years, and with that the trend to look wine at home. Turkey hosts over 1,200 indigenous outside the island’s built-in market of Still, the generously warm Mediter- grapes; 50% are genetically unique. thirsty tourists has grown. It’s not just ranean climate sometimes seems to mask While only about 20 account for 95% of the terrain (rugged granite, limestone true greatness, even if the wines are deli- wine produced today, several producers and schist slopes) but also the climate cious and distinctive. What is incredibly are striving to change that. Narince is that creates such fine-tuned wines. impressive is that this quality-focused in- the luminary white. It is highly versatile, The mountain slopes are cold at night, dustry has developed in such a testy sliver capable of producing all sorts of spar- drastically contrasting the summer sun, of the world. In fact, part of the Musar kling, still and sweet wines with finesse, and the Mediterranean winds can be story is about harvesting grapes surround- depth of flavor and – in some cases – age- cooling, too, as long as they don’t shoot ed by shelling and gunfire. ability. Three black grapes dominate the north from Africa. Local grapes are more likely to star red category. Kalecik Karasi is a pale-ish, Corsica stands by its local grapes, espe- on the plate in warak enab bil zeit (stuffed lighter red that masquerades between Pi- cially for the mid- to high-end wines; 55% leaves) than in the glass. However, not Noir, and depending of the island’s production is rosé and 30% a few determined wineries are making a go on how it is made. The grape Öküzgözü is red. The red Nielluccio, whose DNA with two local white varieties, Obeideh translates into “big black eye of the bull” resembles , is one of the most and Merweh, which are usually destined because it is unusually large for a wine- popular. Another top black grape is Scia- for production. Reds dominate making grape. It offers baking spices, carello, meaning “irresistible.” Vermen- production and most are blends. Typical dark color and relatively supple tannins, tino, also known as Malvoisie de Corse, components include Cabernet Sauvi- so its wines are easy to appreciate. Fi- makes aromatically compelling whites. gnon, , and Syrah, often nally, there is Bogazkere, named Southern French varieties like Grenache, blended à la Bordeaux meets Rhône. Cin- “throat scratcher” for its dense, Syrah and feature prominently, sault accounts for one-third of all even fierce, tannins. Concen- too. One particularly pleasant char- production and has been grown trated in black fruit flavors and acteristic of Corsican wines is that there for over 150 years. In con- highly structured, it can age the producers let the wine shine trast, whites tend to be varietal, gracefully as well. through, never the new . and and Sauvi- gnon Blanc lead the pack. IMPORTANT PRODUCERS: Clos IMPORTANT PRODUCERS: Venturi, Domaine Comte Abbatucci, Vinkara, Suvla, Urla, Kavaklidere, IMPORTANT PRODUCERS: Château Corvus, Sevilen, Likya, Domaine d’Alzipratu, Etienne Musar, Domaine St. Thomas, Suzzoni, Domaine de Torraccia, Pamukkale, Doluca, Yazgan, Château Ksara, Domaine Wardy, Kayra, Selendi Domaine Saparale, Yves Leccia, Château Kefraya, Domaine des CHRISTY CANTERBURY MW SUVLA WINE STORE PHOTO BY Domaine de Vaccelli, U Stiliccionu, Tourelles, Massaya, , Clos Nicrosi Château Ka Suvla Wine Store

LEBANON TURKEY Brought to the world stage by the Turkey is entering a modern golden age charismatic, late Serge Hochar of of , despite its government’s Chateau Musar, Lebanese wine has relatively new but viscious anti-alcohol developed rapidly since the end of the 15- campaigns. year civil war in 1990, burgeoning from Since the beginning of this century, a only five wineries then to over 40 today— number of small producers have diversi- all making very good wines. fied the landscape formerly dominated by YEAR OF DISCOVERY

Slovenian Pinot Grigio is less expensive than Italy’s, plus it generally has more SLOVENIA character and flavor.” Slovenia—wedged between Italy, Edi Simcic and son Aleks—considered Hungary, Austria and the Balkans— among Slovenia’s best winemakers— benefits from a mash-up of cultures, and is champion a different style, aging their emerging as a source for racy, fresh whites wines for long periods in oak which and as a global leader in the “orange” imparts an almost Burgundian profile. wine movement. Other artisanal producers innovate with Winemaking here dates back 2,400 biodynamics, a range of different years, predating France or Spain. Yet oak casks and amphorae and the communist government, which extended skin contact—the took power in 1948 and created recipe for “orange” wines, a niche CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE Yugoslavia, turned all wineries into category which has captured the imagination of many Made with the same varieties and on state-run cooperatives. Slovenia has wine professionals. Movia the same soils as the legendary wines of been playing catch-up since the Iron is a pioneer, with their rich, , Burgundy’s sparkling wines Curtain fell in 1989. chewy, honeyed wines. are well-positioned today to become the Luckily the land is blessed. Primorska next “hot” bubbly. and subregions Vipava, Istra and Brda IMPORTANT PRODUCERS: Movia, border Italy’s Friuli region and feature While the frenzy Edi Simcic, Pullus, P&F, Tilia, focuses on tank-fermented Prosecco mineral-rich soils, ridiculously steep hills, Santomas, Batic, Kabaj today, the high-end game remains focused and the Adriatic’s influence. Some red on wines. Champagne wine is made (from Teran and Refošk— prices often keep those wines just out- Italy’s Refosco—as well Cabernet, of-reach for many consumers. Tuned- Merlot and ; Santomas and in consumers turn to Italy’s sparklers Movia make some of the finest), but this Georgia is considered by many to be the from Franciacorta and Trentodoc, yet is primarily territory. Even cradle of wine, with over 8,000 unbroken Burgundy’s bubbles remain undiscovered. inland regions, Posavje and Podravje, under its belt. Granted, not all of One reason is that sparkling wines are better known for whites. They those were great. “Between the destruction have not been a focus until recently. work with many of the same grapes as of the Soviet period plus the Georgian However, in the last decade, crémant their neighbors: Malvazija (Croatia); Civil War in the 1990s, the wine industry st production has boomed from one to eight and Sivi Pinot (Pinot didn’t resurrect and privatize until the 21 percent. Sometimes ringing in as low as Grigio in Friuli) and Rebula (Ribolla century, so they were extremely late to the half the cost of a bottle of non- Gialla); Chardonnay, and game,” says Lisa Granik, MW Director of Champagne, these wines deliver serious Sipon (Furmint in Hungary). Export Strategy for Georgia. value and can parade as Champagne Two main styles have emerged. The In spite of the hardship, Georgia look-alikes. first is fresh and zippy, and the focus of had one lucky break: Most Soviet The wines are primarily composed of a number of newer wineries, including countries were forced to rip out native Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Technically, Pullus and Puklavec and Friends (P&F). vines in favor of international grapes, these two grapes, along with Pinot Blanc The value is compelling, says George yet some speculate that because Stalin and Pinot Gris, must make up at least Milotes, MS and Beverage Director for was Georgian, the nation retained its 30% of the cuvée. In reality, the latter The Capital Grille and Seasons 52: “I (over 500) indigenous grapes. Today two, along with Aligoté, Sacy can pour a stunning Sauvignon Blanc this treasure trove of fascinating and Gamay, tend to be added in that is half the price of an Italian bottle. varieties—, Kisi, Khikhvi, dashes and pinches. Many of the Tsolikouri, Mtsvane and Saperavi—is grapes are grown on limestone the cornerstone of Georgia’s revival. and exceed the minimum nine Edi Simcic Modernization has ushered in a months on lees in the bottle, range of fresher styles, yet Georgia’s gift creating profoundly flavorful to the world of wine is the centuries-old and textured wines. tradition of the qvevri. Underground clay vessels where wines ferment and IMPORTANT PRODUCERS: Bailley age, qvevris (not to be confused with Lapierre, Parigot & Richard, Louis amphora) are catching on in various Boillot, Caves de Lugny interpretations throughout the globe by BOURGOGNE COURTESY OF BIVB / EDI SIMCIC BY MARIJAN MOCIVNIK BY BOURGOGNE COURTESY OF BIVB / EDI SIMCIC VINEYARD Sardinia is the second largest island in the YEAR OF DISCOVERY Mediterranean

IMPORTANT PRODUCERS: Chateau Mukhrani, Jakeli, LaGvinari, Orgo, Schuchmann, Shalauri, Teliani, Vinoterra

SARDINIA Whereas Sicily has captured wine Qvevris covered but in open air in Georgia drinkers’ imaginations—as much as through stories of the Cosa Nostra as its physical beauty, hearty food and the best wines tend to come from the many famous producers. Combined with ever-improving wines—the wines of hills from far lower yields, and many the common practice of extended skin Sardinia, the second largest island in the producers have abandoned the DOCs to , Georgia is a world capital of Mediterranean, mostly remain off the make IGT wines of gloriously distinctive “orange” wines. “I promote them as white radars of wine consumers today. Mediterranean character. wines for drinkers,” says Granik. Though often occupied by foreigners, Sitting only 125 miles west of Italy, Quite unintentionally, Georgian Sardegna (as it is known in Italian) has Sardinia’s wealth of vines surprisingly wines dovetail nicely with many of today’s never been conquered. So perhaps it is is composed primarily of Spanish grape wine drinking trends: They are not over- through this determined self-reliance varieties, with a heavy Catalonian oaked (“Mostly because this is a and self-administered introspection that accent. The most important reds poor country and oak is expensive, Sardinia has found its highly unusual route are Cannonau (Garnacha), Cari- so it’s never been central to their into the modern wine world. Post-World gnano (Carignan), Monica and winemaking,” shares Granik) War II, Sardinian grape yield allowances Bovale (Graciano). Vermen- and they are lower in alcohol— sky-rocketed and jettisoned quality into tino is the star white grape most around 11.5-12%. Granik an abyss. Today, as the rest of the wine followed by several types of feels the momentum: “The world becomes more quality-oriented, Malvasia. wines are better every year, and yields there stay almost bizarrely high. IMPORTANT PRODUCERS: Argiolas, exports are up 61% this year. That is easy to achieve considering many Capichera, Santadi, Sella & Mosca, Today what I see is promise.” vineyards are in flatter areas. However, Punica

and caveats are understood, one often never quite knows what’s going to come out of the bottle. For some, that’s awesome. For others, that’s annoying. Natural wines can be made from any grape. It’s the style that counts. First and foremost, winemakers work with the principle to add little to no chemicals or additives. For example, many are made with little or no added sulphur, which can result in highly variable juice from one bottle to the next as sulphur acts to protect the wine and keep it in the same phase from the winery to the consumer. Also important to the natural winemaking philosophy is not to employ overly intrusive technological means during production. An extreme example going in the opposite direction are skin-macerated whites called “orange wines” (typically amber in color). “Natural Wine” is the hipster these days, meaning its wines as popular as they are controversial. IMPORTANT PRODUCERS: Nicolas and Virginie Joly (Coulée Ardent fans of the category often prefer to drink nothing else. de Serrant), Gravner (Friuli), Lalou Bize Leroy (Burgundy), However, there are issues with the name. “Natural” can be defined Marcel Lapierre (), Nikolaihof (Austria), Coturri strikingly differently—in a way that definitely matters to well-versed (California), Cédric Bouchard (Champagne), Catherine and fans of the category—by the many possible steps a producer Pierre Breton (Central Loire), Movia (Slovenia), Lagvinari may take to do as little as feasible to a wine. And the potential for Krakhuna (Georgia), Paolo Bea (Umbria), C.O.S. (Sicily), confusion is great, starting with the fact the label itself may not even Reyneke (South Africa), Cowhorn (Oregon), Thierry declare itself simply as “natural wine.” Moreover, once the pluses Puzelat (Central Loire)

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