Disclaimer: The club would like to thank AUSA for their contributions towards the publication of Footprints and other events through the year. Opinions expressed in this journal are the views of the authors and do not necessarily represent the views of the Students Association or the Auckland University Tramping Club. Footprints 2009

The Annual Journal of the Auckland University Tramping Club - Volume 63, 2009 ______Committee 2009

President: David Gauld Captain: Rion Gulley Secretary: Kat Collier Treasurer: Richard Greatrex Social Officers: Charis Wong/Tom Goodman Memberships Officer: Kylie Brewer Hut Officer: Brad Lovett Website Officer: Rob Connolly Publications Officer: Rebecca Caldwell Trips Officer: Craig Smith Safety/Instructional Officer: Anton Gulley Gear Officer: Rowan Brooks Alpine Officer: Miles Mason Duke of Edinburgh Officer: John Deverall Archive Officer: Brian Davies Vice Presidents: Andy Baddeley, Anthea Johnson, Jane Dudley, Owen Lee, Antony Phillips

Front Cover Photo Best Scenic Photo of the Year winner: “Lake Daniells” ~ by Keri Yukich ~ "Good use of portrait, like the mist, sharp and well exposed", as commented/judged by Shaun Barnett

Centre Insert Photos Mt. Taranaki, Nth Island ~ by Aidan Thorp ~ Lake Matheson, Sth Island (A3 Centrepiece) ~ by Rebecca Caldwell ~ Tongariro-Alpine Crossing Great Walk, Nth Island (via moonlight) ~ by Andy Baddeley~

Back Cover Photo Most Hilarious Photo of the Year winner: “Business as usual” ~ by Erik Tomsen ~ "Excellent pose, nice sepia tone, good use of portrait and angle of cigar", as commented/judged by Shaun Barnett

New Zealand Maps (North and South Island and Back Page) Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:New_Zealand_location_map.svg Courtesy of Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:NZOMC.PNG

- Design, Layout, Typesetting and Publishing by Rebecca Caldwell, 2010 - Contents

Page Editorial …...... 1 Captain's Report …...... 2 Social Officers' Report …...... 3-6 Missing 2008 Social Reports - May Camp 2008 …...... 7 - AUTC Christmas Party 2008 …...... 8 Life Membership …...... 9 Instructional Courses - Beginners Snowschool …...... 10-11 - Advanced Snowschool …...... 12-15 - Ark in the Park …...... 16 Pigeons, a Serious Issue and Following the Trail …...... 17-20 The Early Years and Present Day of AUTC's O'Nuku Hut …...... 21-22

North Island Trip Reports New Years 2009 – Kai Iwi Lakes, Northland …...... 23-25 Pouakai Circuit Trip Report …...... 26-27 Hunua Ranges Trip …...... 28 Summiting the Pinnacles …...... 29-30 Karangahake Gorge …...... 31-32 Tongariro Crossing and Pirongia Walk …...... 33-34 Destruction Gully Tramp …...... 35 Southern Crossing Attempt, Tararua Ranges …...... 36-38 The Adventures of Five Hobbits, 'Lord of the Rings' Themed Trip …...... 39-40 Kaimais Trip …...... 41 Mt Taranaki & Ngauruhoe Trip …...... 42-43 Ruahines …...... 44-45 Moonlight Crossing …...... 46-47 Cape Reinga …...... 48-50 The Geographical Embarrassment in Ruahines …...... 51-52 Bethells–Te Henga Day Walk …...... 53 Trip to Ruapehu …...... 54-55 Contents continued …......

South Island Trip Reports The Great River Crossing Machine (GRCM) …...... 56 7 days in 7 words; Two Passes, Two Saddles and a Col …...... 57 Darran's Report …...... 58-60 The Takitimu's …...... 61 Stewart Island – 13 days of Mud, Kiwi and Craig …...... 62-64 Abel Tasman Coastal Track …...... 65-68 Travers Sabine …...... 69-71 “You may only hit the driver when we're travelling under 50km per hour” and other sordid South 72-76 Island adventures …...... Copland Track and Lake Daniells …...... 77-79 Cass-Lagoon Saddle, Arthurs Pass …...... 80-81 Editorial

Welcome to the latest edition of Footprints. The different personalities and needs are great 2009 has been an interesting year for the for fine honing leadership skills and teaching tramping club and many improvements have patience. As for different speeds, I sometimes been made to keep the club alive and kicking. find the fast people and slow people in Being actively involved in the club allows particular get slack for their speeds (and not many opportunities to grow personally, just jokingly). When no selfish agendas are mentally and physically. It has certainly involved, I don't think this promotes fair enabled my personal growth and better thinking. You are often thankful for the fast management of my time (juggling between ones when they run ahead to find a route when work, uni, committee duties, family & friends). you are lost or have hot soup waiting for you when you get to the hut. The slow ones There are many benefits to tramping, which I shouldn't be looked down on either, they are think can be summed up in four words; giving it a go. It takes courage to be at the back 1. growth, 2. challenges, 3. differences and 4. and keep going (often get less breaks) and no friendships. These can be further explained as: matter what their level, they are developing 1. Growth: Tramping can bring out the best their fitness/experience and this is something and worst sides of anyone ... even with the best that ought to be encouraged and fostered. Try map, gear and tramping companions, tramping putting them in front, or hang back and take can still deal all sorts of challenges; weather lots of photos, or if you don't like being held changes, different moods under pressure, up, maybe try alternating with someone each seeking new routes on damaged tracks or the day to go at the back so everyone gets the unfortunate situation of getting lost (or thinking opportunity to go at their speed. you are). All of these situations bring out the real thoughts and sides of people (sometimes 4. Friendships: The club can give you some through angry unhelpful words, complaining, lifetime friends as you share the same sulking or silent treatment – doesn't matter adventures and challenges together. On this whether you are loud or quiet, none of these cheery note, I would like to thank a few people characteristics are helpful/constructive), which (space limits thanking everyone) that I've met often allow no room for hidden/false pretences, in the tramping club and whom have made a especially when facing a near death situation. big impact; both tramping and personally. To As such, growth can only be enhanced. Rob, for your unceasing love/support, integrity and challenging me to keep giving things a go. 2. Challenges: Every time I go on a tramp, I To Claire, for your integrity/reliability and still learn something. Even working in the constant streams of support with difficult uni committee for last two years, I have continued papers. To Jeremy, for challenging me on each to learn, whether organising large social events, tramp and giving me a harder one each time publishing this magazine, or understanding (yes I'm serious ... I sometimes swear, but the (and still) the different ways people do things. challenges have only helped me learn more Nonetheless I've grown and still I find myself about tramping and what I can achieve). not knowing how everything works, except realising that challenges never cease! In short, tramping adventures means more stories to share! :) 3. Differences: In each tramping party, you Rebecca Caldwell have different personalities, needs and speeds.

-1- Captain's Report 2009 has been a strong year for AUTC with lots President David Gauld has now joined their of tramping trips heading out into the bush. By illustrious ranks. David is seeking to retire from my guestimates from O-week till October we the Presidency after 10 years in the role, so if have had close to 60 club trips heading out, anyone is aware of any University Staff members amounting to over 150 days worth of tramping. who are keen, can you please contact David. These expeditions have been to a range of places across to Te Ika a Maui, from Cape Reinga to the We have caught up on past Footprints and the Tararuas, plus all the excursions to the South website’s importance continues to develop. Island that occurred over the summer and in the Social events have blossomed again this year and breaks. The difficulty in levels of these trips has have oozed tramping classiness. varied from day plods to epic adventures. A fallacy that I hear occasionally is that the Financially the club is in a very sound position committee is the centre of the club. This should with a strong membership base. Our collection not be the case; instead a committee should only of gear and safety equipment is constantly act as a guide not the hub. I would encourage expanding to meet our members' needs. AURAC the next committee to take actions to avoid this and AUTC have finalised an Inter-Club Alpine trap. The ballot sheets for the elections were full Agreement which strengthens our relationship compared to previous years and not everyone got and involves the pooling of alpine resources for elected. To those unsuccessful candidates, you the betterment of both clubs. Contact has been can still be involved in the club without being a renewed with MUAC and VUWTC so that we committee member and I encourage the officers can all learn from each other. to harness your energy and that of other members to further the club. The snake that was lurking in the grass this time last year has been pacified. The Waitakere I would like to thank you all for your support and Ranges are highly unlikely to be given National for the opportunity to be your Captain; I found it Park status and ARC has indicated that they will both rewarding and thoroughly enjoyable. renew O'Nuku's license in March. There are still Thank you to all the club members who have a few issues that may derail the club in the future, made this year what it was. Thank you to the on which we must unite to fight. Currently committee for all your hard work and I wish the before parliament is ACT’s Voluntary Student replacements good luck. I would particularly Membership Bill which if passed could reduce like to thank Richard Greatrex who was nice AUSA's budget by 60%. As their subsidiary, enough to disappear to Singapore for last year’s AUTC will feel huge repercussions as well. election, and who has been my right hand man, Similarly our membership numbers are likely to whose wise opinions was valuable in beating decline in the future as the government has down my stupider ideas. Also whino [rhino] removed the discounted fees that German & deserves my acknowledgements for keeping a French exchange students have enjoyed in the lookout for things sneaking up on me. past. This year we were ONLY nominated as AUSA’s Another notable achievement this year has been club of the year, I guess that gives us something the unveiling of a plaque commemorating the to sort out next year. enormous contributions life members have made Rion Gulley to our club. It gives me great pleasure that our

-2- Social Officers' Report

Socialising tramping style…..

The 2008 social officers' report by Charis The events that were organised this year were; Wong and Thomas Goodman Orientation Party at our dear O’nuku Hut, Wine and Cheese evening at Mt. Eden, Cave Party at (Some photos are from Tony Siu, Rosanna Whatipu, a re-worked Progressive Dinner, a Walton, Kylie Brewer, Andrew Baddeley) Cocktail Party, May Camp at Waitawheta, Dessert Night, Hut Birthday Party, Outdoor “Have you ever partied in a cave or bush in the Clubs Party, ‘Scavenger Hunt’, Posh Dins and middle of nowhere before?”, we asked. “Hmm, the annual Christmas Party. no..!?” they replied. “Well,. how about Phonebook Games?, or Table Traverse? Have you tried that?”, we asked again.

For this is what AUTC social events are like… After talking to Rebecca and Kylie (our last year’s social officers), and reading through the social officers book that has been passed along since 1988, dominated by “warnings” and “careful advice”, we both felt relatively nervous, but at the same time rather excited for a full year of awesome events to plan. Throughout this year, we have tried to bring in a mixture of new ideas to spice up our events, and the long-going unique flavour of our traditional events (the Our annual Orientation Party at O’nuku Hut is Club is 77 years old now, and some of the always one of the biggest events of the year, and events and hut games have been running for this year was no different - 83 people attended more than 30 years!) that have been passed on the 7th to 8th of March. A quick bus trip out to along for many years. the Cascades, which was followed by choosing your own easy, med or hard tramp to the hut. “We tramp some of the times, but we are friends The hut was decorated with streamers, fairy most of the times….” From the social officers lights, spot lights, and a mirror ball with music book and blurb written by Martin Wright AUTC being played for the whole night. A gourmet Social Officer 1987 dinner was served with burgers, salad and apple crumble for dessert. And yes, these were all There is no doubt that tramping is all we are happening in the middle of bush! Great thanks to here for in AUTC, but when we are out of the Claire Oliver for organizing such a beautiful bush, these social events have become the meal! It was then followed by our famous hut secondary media for us to strengthen our games. Great thanks to the whole committee for friendships and find buddies for our next their help. And great thanks for everyone who adventure! We believe we had a successful year gave me a beautiful 21st birthday (same day as with lots of social events held within. Orientation!), it was definitely memorable.

-3- Wine and Cheese evening (12th March) and realized that it’s not an easy life being a pirate or Cornwall Park BBQ (4th April) were the other a smuggler. two events followed by Orientation. We spent a lovely evening consuming wine and cheese at Progressive dinner (23rd May) took place this year Mt. Eden. Despite the not-superbly-good-quality in a new-and-original format - the recession striking of wine (It’s cheap wine! haha), and a howling fear into students far and wide. Delicious home- wind that forced us to take refuge on the lower made pizza at Sarah’s house was followed by a slopes, the beautiful night view of Auckland quick (car-assisted!) progression to Tom’s house for City and good company from our fellow dessert. At some stage, Andy and Anton decided trampers made for another enjoyable night. A the pizza wasn’t coming fast enough for their sunny day was spent at Cornwall Park with a liking, and hit upon Kat’s toes as a suitable BBQ and playing relaxing games like Frisbee. A substitute. Soon, Kat was surrounded by a ravaging Dessert Night and Cocktail Party was also horde, fortunately she escaped with only bite marks organised and based at Tom’s house. Both events were well attended, with lots of amazing food, and great company from our fellow trampers. Thanks to Andrew Draper for mixing an inordinate number of cocktails, and to everyone else for bringing such an amazing range of desserts!

Cave Party was held (18th to 19th of April) at one of the sea caves at Whatipu in the Waitakere Ranges, with the theme 'Pirates and Smugglers'. Naturally this involved bush-bashing, a round of cave-exploration, and treasure hunting was a on her big toes. After dessert, a round of charades must-have. The cave was filled with black pirate started, providing plenty of entertainment for all.

balloons, fairy lights, wooden boxes, pirate flag, candles and a parrot etc. After burritos for dinner, we all headed into the wilderness to hunt for treasure, with clues scattered throughout the swamp in the true smuggler style. Unfortunately it proved that most simply weren’t cut out to be a smuggler, despite tall claims to the contrary, as only one team found the gold coins buried in the end. The night was spent in the cave with mozzies gleefully seizing their new prey. We were all exhausted after the weekend and

-4- May Camp was held on the weekend from 24th Aug) was relatively special this year with the to 26th of July. Based on the fact that it has been unveiling of the life members’ plague in order to held in the Hunuas and Waitakere area for quite celebrate their contribution to the club. It was an a long time, amazing weekend to meet the life members, who we decided provided us with lots of the old memories, photo to try a new albums and many amazing stories of life in the camp venue, the Waitawheta Camp at K gorge. The theme was “life is too short to buy cheap clothes…” Friday night started off with ice- breaking games and the camp’s famous flying fox that did good 'ole' days. Our common tie to AUTC its best to throw people off - it didn't succeed bridged the age gap (quite substantial in some much. The next day the sun was shining brightly cases!) as we all shared our stories, talked about for a day of tramping, for which we must thank our trip plans, sang, and even played hut games together! Their passion for AUTC was an inspirational for us all, and as they said when they left, “It is very nice to be back ..”.

A Scavenger Hunt (19th Sep) had been carefully planned for September, with lots of cool questions and problems to be solved at Cornwall Park, but unfortunately, the clouds opened and after much frantic organizing, we all convened at Andy’s house for a BBQ and Anzac slice that was provided by our excellent host. In order to encourage brain activities as planned for the event, we decided to play 'Cranium'. An exciting contest ensued, all were surprised by the literary and artistic skills displayed by all. Andy for sacrificing a possum on his drive down to the weather goddess. Claire Oliver and a team Outdoor Clubs Party (9th Oct) was held in of helpers again did a beautiful job in food prep conjunction with AURAC, AUCC, AU Dive with a three course meal. Sarah and Tom organised the quiz while everyone enjoyed their delicious dessert with sugar to boost up their brain activities! Kat’s 21st was also celebrated, with a mountain cake being scaled by gummy bears, and another, somewhat ruder version….

Our O’nuku Hut had just turned 65 years old, so our annual Hut Birthday Party (29th to 30th

-5- Club and AU Ski Club at London Bar, and was incoming captain made an appearance as Santa themed 'Dangerous Liaison'. It was an amazing Claus, with the role of Mrs Claus being filled by night with people costumed dangerously. An the incoming club secretary (distributing the honourable mention is also due to the DJ who secret santa presents that everyone had brought was released upon an unsuspecting crowd. Out with them). Santa, perhaps ignoring the company of the huge range of imaginative costumes on brief that requires a child-friendly image, show, no-one could beat the creativity and effort required a story of each person's first kiss before from Ming (a broken condom) and Laura (as receiving their gift. This caused red faces all Gogo Yubari from Kill Bill), who won best round. The remainder of the day was filled up dressed male and female, taking away the very with swimming, soccer and chatting over vast cool jackets sponsored by Snowgum. Great amounts of sweet food. It was a lovely day spent thanks to the reps from other clubs: Chloe, Ally, with our fellow trampers to cap off another fine Ming, Mai, Craig W and Hannah, and also to year. Snowgum and Living Simply for their sponsorship in prizes. We hope that you have all enjoyed an awesome year of tramping and these social events. Great thanks to Sarah, the “third” social officer who helped us in most of our events and all the other members of the committee for their help and advice.

th We had our lovely Posh Dins (20 November) Happy Tramping! at Mission Bay in order to welcome in summer. It was an evening with suits and ball gowns on the grass by the beach with fountains and lovely trees around. Handling food with hands or drinking wine out of cups was not allowed/encouraged. NZ’s favourite 'fish and chips' was served with knives and forks on plates, and wine was served with wine glasses (ah hm well, plastic-made wine glasses), followed by a fine dessert. It was posh! Finally, the last event was the Christmas Party (6th December), which was held at Wenderholm Regional Park (a sudden departure from tradition). It was a lovely day on the beach with Your friendly Social Officers 2009, a BBQ and pot-luck picnic. As per tradition, the Tom, Sarah and Charis

-6- 2008 Missing Social Reports

May Camp 2008 Amidst entrées, dinner and dessert we had Quiz Mania by candlelight (well headtorches), to Author: Rebecca Caldwell which "Suicidal Heifers" won. You guys knew a fair amount of knowledge - well done! We started out with trying to get the projector Next out came Rob's Home Brew Beer and to work (took 20 mins) to then watch the movie Kylie's Vodka Punch and then the 'battle of "Starters for 10" in a very smoked out hall (but elasticity' began ...... atleast we weren't too cold). Following the John and Richard organised some fabulous movie, we then tried the "Burma trail". What a games in front of the warm pot belly stove fire hoot! or a scream for the ones who successfully (super athletic body needed to pick up piece of managed to scare some of the innocent few ;-) cardboard or penny from the ground using your Thanks Aidan, Rob and others who helped lay a mouth only - no hands, table traverse, the great trail. Certainly had a few twists!!! broomhandle challenge, twister and more). The next day, we woke to rain, rain and more Craig also set up his car stereo to blast as rain. Apparently we were in for a storm that powerfully as it really could. It really did try! hadn't been this bad for a decade. Nonetheless, ….. for others who just wanted to boogie. Craig kept up the enthusiasm and everyone but a small few, dressed appropriately and went Finally at 12am, the power came on ..... so did tramping on various tracks (easy, medium or the stereo! and we boogied on til 1.45am. hard). The ferocious storm wasn't as bad as the media A few of us stayed back to go on a shorter walk and weather reports had made out. Hail and a and then help out with the big task of feeding few extra rocks on the road when driving back the masses for dinner. Things were going but nothing to lose sleep over. reasonably well until 2pm. The power went off The powercut made things harder, but thanks to and didn't come back on til 12am. We had one headtorches, a gas oven, a fire place, great commercial gas oven stove (thank God) and helpers and great people, its not a weekend I with this we managed to cook two entrées, three will forget in a hurry. Lots of fun (stressful mains, vegetables, cheese sauce, chocolate cooking times and all)! brownies and berries. Thanks to all the cooks, you guys did a fabulous job, especially given the unhelpful powerless circumstances.

“The car stereo was set up to blast as powerfully as it really could. It really did try!”

-7- AUTC Christmas Party 2008 went and sat on Santa’s knee but before they got their present they had to say one good thing they’d done this year. There were some unusual December 2008 and unique presents including Dalmatian dominoes, a pirate journal, door stops and a Author: Kylie Brewer Christmas tie!

Attendees: Kylie Brewer, Jenny Waite, Keri Then it was time for crazy games led by the one Yukich, Christina Ergler, Neil D’Cruz, Kieran and only AUTC party Queen Mel Abbott!! First Beggs, Claire Oliver, Aidan Thorp, Anton up was 'Where are you Moriato'? We paired up Gulley, Rion Gulley, Andrew Draper, Craig and were blindfolded and one person in each pair Smith, Tom Goodman, Sarah Wyse, Christina had to try and hit ‘Moriato’. Most of us ended up Fullerton, Galina Redkina, Stefan Wender, whacking the floor let alone 'Moriato'. Next up Andrew Young, Luke Kristensen, Ben Bauer, was the 'Cut the Chocolate' game where you had Jeff Small, Peter Luk, Rebecca Caldwell, Rob to put on the pile of random clothes in the right Connolly, Mel Abbott, Sebastian Herberling, order and start cutting up the chocolate before Jake Nana, Rob Leyland, Ryan Barron. the next person pulled a picture card from the pile. Sadly not many people got an attempt at the The final event on the AUTC social calendar was chocolate. Then it was time for the real mayhem the Christmas party, one last night of mayhem of the night and the Piece de Résistance “The Big and shenanigans at the hut before we all head off Score”. We divided up into teams of 6 and each on our summer adventures. person had to decide whether they were either a flexible, a sculler, a sucker, a swallower, a A keen group of trampers met Craig at Britomart blower or a spanker. Each team had to come up to catch the train to Swanson to take the more with a name, mine being Flight of the traditional route into the hut via the scenic route, Wrongchords – thanks Ryan! The first round was while everyone else took the slightly shorter the beer sculls and it was a race between a Anawhata Road track. The evening started off member from each team as to who could be the with the annual Rambo Run, a bush bash down first to drink the can of beer. Next up was the to Pig Wallow Stream, this year’s winner was flexibility challenge where we had to bend over Craig Smith with a time of 3 minutes, 12 and pick up a cardboard box with our teeth seconds. However not everyone who participated without our hands or knees touching the floor. I made it back and a search and rescue operation found I was more flexible than I thought but not begun, when after half an hour Aidan and quite flexible to pick up the box when only half Sebastian failed to return. Within 10 minutes of of it remained. The third challenge was the the searchers venturing into the bush on a sucking challenge where the suckers had to pick mission to find him, Sebastian returns and 15 up and transfer M&M’s using a straw between minutes later so does Aidan much to everyone’s two plates. Next up was the blower challenge to relief. More searchers were then dispersed to see who could blow the most bubbles in a find the original searchers to tell them all is well! minute. This was followed by the swallower challenge to see who could eat their custard the We christened our new bbq which was worth quickest! Some managed to get more of it down waiting for (Thanks Kylie!) followed by dessert their front than in their mouth! The final of Christmas pudding which proved to be challenge was to find out are you a spanker?, incredibly popular. Then it was time for Santa to where teams paired up to see who could hit each hand out presents. Keeping with tradition, Rion other the hardest. An extra challenge was added our 2009 club captain was Santa with John our to the mix to pass a lolly between team members 2008 club captain as Mrs Claus and Anton as on tooth picks, not easy at the best of times but Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer. Everyone even harder in the dark! A fun end to a fantastic year of social events!

-8- Life Membership

David Gauld – AUTC Life Member, Kaimais to assist in the Search and Rescue 2009 operation for a missing plane (incidentally, the first New Zealand SAR mission in which helicopters were used). All 23 passengers aboard Author: Kat Collier the flight died, and it remains New Zealand’s worst domestic air disaster. Throughout the Amongst the many achievements of the club this search, the members of AUTC distinguished year has been the creation of a life members’ themselves by their bravery, level-headedness, plaque, which now hangs on the wall in O’nuku. and their determination to reach the site of the It was whilst we were researching the past life crash. members of the club that Rion and I came to the somewhat surprising realisation that David Gauld Trip reports from David’s early years in the club was not yet on the list. This matter, we thought, show, in a very comforting and familiar fashion, had to be rectified immediately. that nothing very much has changed. Trampers like David have always been with us – excitable, At the hut birthday party, we took the opportunity madcap, cheery, anarchic, equally ready to stroll to speak with many of the Life Members, most of along barefooted over rough rock whilst whom reflected our surprise and expressed their composing witty little tunes, or to slog their guts desire for David’s immediate elevation to their out up slopes in conditions which no sane person ranks. All of this will give you some indication would ever attempt. Despite having tramped in of how loved and respected David is within the some truly memorable places throughout the club. world, David retains a great fondness for local tramping. In 1967 he summed up a trip report on David Gauld joined AUTC in 1961, at a time Yosemite National Park with these conclusions: when the club seemed to be almost entirely 1. American hikers make up for the larger populated by an overabundance of Daves. He was number of people (California, slightly larger than Captain in 1964/65, and has been our devoted N.Z. has seven times its population) in the President on and off for the best part of the last mountains simply by ignoring them. 2. I still 30 years. Always a fountain of wisdom about reckon the Waitakeres are a good area for a club traditions and relics, David is still an active weekend trip and 3. A brief article like this tramper, and this year led an immensely cannot hope to do justice to David’s remarkable entertaining tramp up Destruction Gully, for tramping spirit. which he even wrote an accompanying theme song! Suffice it to say that his Life Membership of the club is richly deserved a hundred times over, and Throughout his time in the club, David has had by now well and truly overdue! Thank you, many adventures, and been involved in some David: wise sage, generous leader, and an truly historic events. In July 1963, he was one of inspiration to us all. the six AUTC members who travelled to the

-9- Instructional Courses

Beginners Snowschool We reached the hut for lunch and geared up for self arrest practice. We had no problems July 2009 throwing ourselves down the steep slope, however stopping was another matter. The Author: Kimberley Greenwell slides became longer and longer and the climb back up more difficult as we attempted to arrest Instructors: Rob Frost, Anton Gulley, Jane from all four positions. We were all relieved Dudley when it started getting dark so we could go back to the hut and shed our sopping wet Participants: Nadia Wollkopf, Preston clothing. Thank goodness for a drying room. Saunders, Harrison Pyne, Zachary Brierley, Tony Tse, Alastair Michaels, Johannes Trapp, After a dinner of what tasted of ginger, we had Kimberley Greenwell lessons on avalanches, mountain weather and snow cave making, although I’m not sure if any of us paid attention as we were struggling to The morning started slowly as we sorted our keep our eyes open. gear and practised cutting steps on a slope in between the arriving skiers and snowboarders. We woke early in the morning to a howling When the instructors had finally run out of gale and the shuddering of the hut on its things for us to do off the snow, we started our foundations. The instructors advised that the ascent in the shinning hot sun. We made several wind always sounds worse than it is, however stops for fluids and to shed clothing on our when someone from another party got blown climb, trying to stuff everything in our backwards a short distance from the hut, it was oversized packs, much to the amusement of decided that we would be staying here for the people passing by. day. To make matters worse, the luxurious indoor toilets froze and would not flush. This meant filling buckets with water to ‘flush’ the toilet bowls. The instructors came up with a few ideas to overcome our restlessness, one of which included being roped up so we could take a short walk out in the wind to see what it was like. The others watched from the windows as one by one we walked the short distance up a small slope, and it became a competition to see who could fall over the least. Ropes were tied up inside for some of us to try prussicking, and for others showing off their skills (or lack of them). The evening concluded with the phonebook game, another ginger flavoured dinner, and our great chefs’ attempt at chocolate custard, which only Anton could stomach.

-10- crampon walking on the ski runs. We achieved our ‘summit’, and if you angled the camera to avoid the pummel lift to the left and the mountain looming behind you, it actually looked as though we had reached the top of a mountain.

We packed up in the hut, just in time for the toilets to defrost and start flushing on their own. When the cheesy one-liners started from Rob, we knew it was time to leave. The descent involved some sliding, some planned and some not, and we reached the car park far too The weather improved, so we could venture quickly. outside the next day. The ski field did not open till late so we had a short walk to practice our

“We made several stops for fluids and to shed clothing on our climb, trying to stuff everything in our oversized packs, much to the amusement of people passing by”

“The instructors advised that the wind always sounds worse than it is, however when someone from another party got blown backwards a short distance from the hut, it was decided that we would be staying here for the day”

-11- Advanced Snowschool manageable portions, and everyone tried to - Of Avalanches, Mayhem, and a avoid having to volunteer to carry the ropes. Rather Improbable Trifle - The walk up to NZAC was as unpleasant as July 2009 anticipated – freezing wind straight out of the arse end of Antarctica, accompanied by a sullen, Author: Kat Collier sulky sort of rain, which took an indecent delight in freezing solid onto everything we Madhouse escapees: Rob Frost (beloved owned. There was an avalanche warning out, so dictator), Joe Nelson (alpine guru and single- we avoided the nice snug valleys and instead handed upholder of AURAC’s claim to that plodded our way up a charmingly exposed second ‘A’), Rion Gulley (Boss-man, nutcase, ridge, weighed down with ropes, ice axes, and all-round inspiration), Anton Gulley (he of hammers, snow stakes, transceivers, probes, embarrassingly tight inside-out polypro fame), helmets, shovels, emergency shelters, crampons, Rowan Brooks (fanatic, drunkard, and provider slings, harnesses, assorted hardware and an of a ridiculous amount of lentils), Charis Wong absolutely ludicrous quantity of food. All that (most noble shiverer on behalf of the group), could be said for this was that it at least Jane Dudley (creator of absurdly complex prevented Charis from being blown off the trifles), Andy Thompson (animal impersonator), ridges. Rob, suspiciously, was in unfailingly Dan Scott (purveyor of foodstuffs, including a chipper spirits, and bribed us lesser beings lamentable lack of coffee), and Kathleen Collier onwards with a steady supply of chocolate. (scribe, daredevil, and homicidal driver). Cries of ecstatic delight greeted the sight of our Following immediately on from a week’s worth beloved NZAC hut, and we scrambled the final of tramping in the Whirinaki and Kaimanawas, few metres with a surprising alacrity. Inside, we it needs be said that it was a less than dumped our gear gratefully, and attempted to enthusiastic Kat who shivered in the back seat prise frozen chunks of metal from the outsides of Andy’s car outside a glaringly lit information of our packs. It then became apparent that shelter in National Park waiting for everyone everyone was starving, and the only provision else to arrive for what was to be the epic we had made for the night’s dinner had been to Advanced Snowschool ’09. A gloomy silence swipe a large quantity of lentils from the had fallen over the vehicle, as Charis toyed Umakarikari trip. Dubiously, we poured most of listlessly with her mobile phone and Andy and the bagful into a pot of boiling water, and Dan in the front seats stared broodingly in Rowan and I were left in charge of turning it opposite directions. Your scribe, meanwhile, into high cuisine on the grounds that, as contemplated the various great dilemmas of the vegetarians, we were best qualified to deal with modern world, such as the fact that my boots ‘lentil mush’. Over half an hour later, everyone were still full of icy water, and all of the else was severely doubtful of our claim that chocolate was buried beyond hope of “lentils are a really quick meal”, and decided excavation beneath a bristling layer of axes, just to eat them crunchy. Not recommended. snow stakes, crampons, and other sharp pointy things. It was dark, it was cold, and the walk up Having finally managed to extract from Rob a to NZAC had never looked less inviting. promise that he wouldn’t drag us out of bed too early the next morning, we collapsed thankfully A wild squeal of brakes accompanied by into blessed slumber. euphoric war-whooping cries alerted us to the arrival of the others, who spilled out of the car The next few days were spent very studiously, into the night air with entirely too much joie de as we applied ourselves to learning as much as vivre. There followed approximately an hour’s we could about snow in as short a space of time mucking round as we sorted out the ridiculously as possible. I can safely say that I learnt more in large piles of gear into slightly more that week than in an entire semester of

-12- coursework (though given my status as the attempt to hold their weight and set an anchor, token Arts student of the group, this was hardly whilst being unable to move outside of a half- surprising). I have very little memory of metre radius on the grounds that your foot Monday, other than the fact that one of the balanced precariously on an ice axe is the only Gulley brothers was responsible for burning the thing preventing them from dragging you down porridge, and was soundly abused by the rest of into the crevasse as well. Once you’ve managed us for the duration of breakfast. From memory, this seemingly impossible feat of contortionism, the morning was devoted to theory-type stuff (I you then have to escape the system, ascertain defy anyone who has spent any time at all somehow whether or not your partner is alive studying knots not to think that they’re super- (surprisingly easy, if they happen to be engaged cool), and the afternoon to the practise of roping in a furious snowball fight with all the other up in pairs in order to cross glaciers. One poor ‘victims’ who have simultaneously fallen hitherto unsuspected advantage of this was the over the edge of a cliff), and rig up an opportunity it provided for skipping games, at immensely complicated pulley system involving which Rob proved himself remarkably inept. six separate lines in order to extricate them. I was lucky, as Charis is a particularly light and Tuesday morning we practised our anchor obliging victim, but Rion was less fortunate, setting; whether due to some extraordinary skill ending up with approximately 30cm of rope to on our part, or to the particularly wonderful work with after Rowan ‘jumped too far’, and quality of the snow that day, even our most having all the while to duck missiles from his bizarre designs seemed to hold, despite being entirely unapologetic partner. subjected to the full weight of Rob, Rion, Joe and Anton combined. The afternoon was spent After each of us had rescued our practising our pitching (awesome, awesome fun, (overwhelmingly grateful) partners, it was our despite the tendency of bucket seats to freeze turn to take the jump. Hanging about on the end your arse off), and the evening engaged in a of a rope in the snow for half an hour starts out funky little rope trick known as ‘escaping the fun, but not for long, as then the wind comes up, system’, which involved dangling various and the sun drops, and all the feeling in your bodies from the rafters of NZAC for extended extremities starts to recede as you begin to periods of time. This is inclined to very quickly shiver uncontrollably. Eventually, only Jane and become a lot more painful than it sounds I were left down in the crevasse, watching the (unless, of course, you are one of those snowmobiles wend their way through the fashionable individuals who has a harness darkness like some species of bizarre, ungainly specially padded with sheepskin). insect, their headlights bobbing and winking in a friendly fashion. By now, the cold had started Wednesday’s promised hurricane failed to to affect us more than a little, and we became eventuate, and we were left instead with a mild, remarkably silly, bouncing up and down on the summery blue sky, soft, powdery snow, and the ends of our ropes dancing the Macarena in the lightest of breezes, which we took advantage of hope of attaining some warmth, and composing to practise our crevasse rescues outside instead witty songs about the rest of the group. Jane’s of inside as originally planned. I spent a highly ability to create rhymes under pressure is enjoyable morning sunbathing on a bit of remarkable (the rhyming of ‘Rob’ with ‘blob’, bedroll just outside the hut and reading The for example, was inspired), but she found it Lord of the Rings, occasionally giving a bit of a particularly difficult to discover a rhyme for tug to the rope attached to my harness as Anton, ‘Joe’, getting through ‘row’, ‘blow’, ‘ho’, ‘go’ further up the slope, struggled heroically to and ‘mo’ before discovering the obvious (we rescue me from this appalling danger. That were sitting in about 2 metres of it). afternoon, we engaged in a slightly more realistic simulation, in which your partner leaps We greeted our eventual, almost unhoped for with gay abandon off the edge of a small cliff, rescue with delirious joy, and made all speed and you engage in a lot of swearing as you back to the hut in order to begin the process of

-13- thawing out. As the weather had held, we constructed from layers of 3-inch thick ice at decided to mount an assault upon the plateau the 10-inch intervals, and we had a hell of a time next day, so with any luck that would be our last hacking through them in order to get anything night in the hut. This being the case, a party was approaching shelter. Two hours in, Anton in order; Rowan broached a cask of truly high described the result of our labour as “about big quality (and very well-travelled) red, and Anton enough for one person in the foetal position”, and Jane, unable to choose what to have for and the rest of us were forced to agree with him. dessert, decided simply to combine them all. Jane then suggested that we turn to igloos, as There followed a pudding of truly epic the snow was decently blocky, so we divided proportions, which we christened a trifle, into two groups – one to quarry and arrange though its exact classification remains shrouded snow bricks, and one to carry on with the in mystery. When complete, it was a thing of painfully slow work of enlarging the cave. The awe-inspiring beauty, and just the tiniest bit sun was just setting when we came to the intimidating. At least six distinct strata could be unwelcome realisation that our igloo was discerned, comprising biscuit-crumb base, destined to collapse inwards in the night, so chocolate instant pudding, strawberry instant redoubled our efforts at snow caving. Hacking pudding, chunks of strawberry and port wine apart the ice was good, hard work, and kept us jelly, custard, and a delicate gravel of chocolate nice and warm, but outside the wind had come shavings. Whilst this monstrosity was being up again, so everybody outside had a tendency prepared, the rest of us carried on with a bit to freeze to whatever they touched, and it was more escaping the system, and Anton took it cold enough for Anton to proclaim “we’ll just into his head that it would be a good idea to have to squash into the cave and have a big orgy practise his prussic knots by tying me up in to keep warm”. It probably speaks volumes that them. For some incomprehensible reason I that was the best idea I’d heard all day. At one agreed to this, with the single proviso that I still point Joe scrambled in with an urgent summons got my dessert. Between them, Anton and from Rob, instructing us that we had to get our Rowan managed to hog-tie me and carry me to arses outside immediately. Dreading news of the bench, where I was propped against the hypothermia, broken legs, and people lost in table and force-fed trifle, in serious danger of avalanches, we rushed outside en mass, only to choking because I was laughing so much. Our be greeted by a slightly bemused Rob with “Oh, antics were watched with bemusement by the I just thought the moon looked pretty”. bunch of Aussies with whom we were sharing the hut, but they must have decided that we Our shelter situation now becoming a little were harmless, as they later joined us for a bit desperate, we sent the Gulley brothers into the of high-spirited idiocy involving phonebooks, cave and let them go mad, wielding picks, tables, brooms, chairs, bottle caps, etc. etc. hammers and shovels with a terrifyingly manic enthusiasm. Rob and I were dispatched to cook Thursday dawned brilliantly clear and still, with dinner, and huddled miserably inside the a dusting of the perfect squeaky powder one minimal shelter provided by our half-built igloo generally associates with Christmas cards. trying to get the gas cookers to light and Because the valleys were still avalanche-prone, wondering why no one had thought to bring we took a ridge route up to the plateau, with MSRs. Finally, about 3 hours after dark, we Rob and Joe pointing out features of the snow had a strictly functional meal of singed as we walked. We played a bit of a game macaroni (hey, at least it was hot...), and a guessing which were the most likely avalanche surprisingly serviceable snow cave big enough paths, and examined some really rather fantastic for about seven of us. Undaunted, Captain Rion ice formations. We reached the plateau then explained his plan that he, Rob and Joe sometime in the early afternoon and set about would sleep in the freezing pit of our abandoned digging ourselves some snow caves for the quarry, with an emergency shelter rigged up night. It soon became apparent that the slope over the top to prevent them from being snowed we’d chosen was one of those lovely ones on. Can’t say I envied them. Particularly, given

-14- Rion's peculiar sense of humour at times and his Anthea and Michael on the ski field and desire to be real cozy with his bunk mates.... stopping for a bit of a chat). At any rate, we finally snuggled into our sleeping bags, and the usual standard snow cave As we were all sleepy, sunburnt, and feeling shenanigans followed. Anton was responsible pleasantly lazy, we took the chairlifts back for procuring from somewhere a rather down to Whakapapa, managed to excavate the misshapen pastry penis, which astounded Andy cars from a few metres of snow, and headed with its... um.... firmness. homewards (not without a slight chuckle at Anton, Rob, and Jane, who were heading back Thursday was the most glorious day in living up to instruct Beginners’ in what promised to be memory, which was rather fortunate, given how some of the foulest weather of the holidays). much of our gear had frozen overnight. Apparently the temperatures in the pit had Rion and I listened to Meatloaf and debated reached around -14⁰. After a slow start we roped politics in the car on the way back home, and up and traipsed across the plateau, then started somehow managed to keep each other awake up towards the two peaks on the Northern side, enough not to drive off the road. Cunningly, we Te Heuheu and Tukino. They were as superbly took the back roads in order to avoid the wondrous as one might expect, particularly grasping clutches of Hamilton, and Mrs Tukino, which had a funky little ice stair to Gulley’s brave little red car excelled itself by climb for those of us of a slightly madder fighting most of the way from Matamata to persuasion. We spent a fair amount of time Bombay on an empty fuel tank. The lights of dicking around on top of the peaks, making 'aw' civilisation were met with cries of joyous relief, noises about the view, camera-whoring like mad and it was at last permitted to surrender and drinking frozen coke, courtesy of Rion. We blissfully into the arms of Morpheus. Overall cruised back down along Pinnacle ridge in the snow school verdict: Awesome. blazing sunshine, and were back home at NZAC in time for a late lunch (after bumping into

“Does anyone need some more wine?” “Yep. If Rob’s going to teach again I’m going to need to fall asleep” – Rowan and Rion ______“Made with wine from France, Chile, Australia, Argentina, Zimbabwe and New Zealand” – Definite quality from the cask

______“There’s about room for one person curled up into the foetal position” – Anton re the snow cave ______

“Oh, I just thought the moon looked pretty” – Frosty, after hauling everyone out of their warm snow cave

-15- Ark in the Park This year 327 bags of bait were put out that has resulted in a large increase in bird numbers Author: Jenny Waite already. We’ve had our first Tomtit found in the hut, a pair of swallows are nesting on the deck The Ark project moved into the area around and there is a resident Morepork that is O’Nuku this year and we were invited to join in regularly seen during the day often being chased the control of predators in this area. We ran by one of the many Tui that have moved into three events plus regular checking of stoat traps the area. This year the Ark has released Robins, that have so far caught a rat and a possum. The Hihi and Kokako so we can look forward to three joint events ran smoothly despite the rain these birds moving into the AUTC area soon. that seemed to accompany each. Large group from the Ark turned out to help with the first More importantly everyone has had fun two events, with the final baiting round crashing through the bush, getting cut by Kie completed by us. Kie and cutty grass and enjoying a BBQ at the end of a good days work. So thanks to everyone A number of people have helped out from the who has helped out this year and we can look club so I wont list them all but a huge thanks to forward to more exciting things next year. everyone involved.

“We’ve had our first Tomtit found in the hut, a pair of swallows are nesting on the deck and there is a resident Morepork that is regularly seen during the day often being chased by one of the many Tui that have moved into the area”

-16- Pigeons, A Serious Issue and Following the Trail

Pigeons and a Serious Issue is no need to split up. I think whistles are great but only in an emergency. This is a selection from a series of emails among a real tramping club in New Zealand. Radios seem like fun but also like an excuse for Most of the string is silly and in good humour, poor leadership and planning on a trip. but along the way is a good discussion of an important safety issue. I was thinking more along the lines of safety - if someone goes above the tree line to get cell I have noted a disturbing trend growing in the phone reception to helicopter someone out, if club of parties walking at vastly different two people are tramping and someone gets speeds. This is a potential safety risk. It is injured where there's no cell phone contact, etc. alright for the group to be spread over a small Although I see where you're coming from. Why distance as long as the leaders know they must not trial them and see how they're received? If keep within ear shot/stop regularly especially at nothing else, they'd be useful on hut work- days junctions or when the track is unclear. Please when groups are split up. try in all your trips to not let the people in front run too far ahead, unless you have agreed on a "Why not trial them and see how they're stopping point/time and you are confident of the received?" You're so puny. nature of the track. I notice that the thread has drifted from the Perhaps at least one member of each party and original idea: Tramping parties should stick preferably two people carry a whistle and use it together. at various intervals. If the group at the back can't hear the whistle of those at the front then When the group is together any incidents can be that’s a sign the group needs to stop and let the dealt with at once, not whenever the people at others catch up. the front realise the people at the back haven't caught up (then backtrack). Individuals can't get Why doesn't the club invest in some $100/set lost. Groups can't turn down different tracks at rechargeable 2-way radios? If the front person junctions. and back person have a radio each, the chances of losing people is reduced, and for a $100 Everybody gets to make input into decisions. investment it seems crazy that we don't have The leader can monitor how everyone is feeling them already. and regularly make sure all are present. Morale is generally improved. I think the point was that we did not want to split up at all. Shouting distance was an The group will always arrive at the speed of the absolute maximum. We are trying to keep trips slowest person, and in fact if the slower people small and with people of similar fitness so there are near the front the group moves faster as a whole. A good way to manage this is to have an

-17- experienced person at the front to route find and you break the golden rule of staying put, people a slow person at the front to pace set should still be able to find you from the trail of (occasionally these will be the same person). feathers. Ear shot is OK, but remember the people at the back will need a decent rest when they catch up I'm not aware of the alpine abilities of your to where the front people stopped. average pigeon, but the populations formally residing in parks in London and the large Thanks, though I don't think anyone was number I found nesting in the roof of a church disputing that point. No-one disagreed, we were in Edinburgh, indicate that they are quite able to simply discussing it in an open forum. Is that survive cold temperatures..., although we may OK with you? require special imported "alpine pigeons" for use only on alpine trips. Of course, I enjoy open forum discussion as you well know! I thought I would restate the One of the random contacts I’ve made over the original, tried, tested and sure one, which years was with a guy called Bill from the seemed to have gotten lost in the noise, as it Pigeon Fanciers club. They were after a place to were. store their pigeons and wanted to park their trailer at the warehouse. The gist that I got was Seeing as we are in an open forum, I'd also like that they fancied racing pigeons, not the to suggest that the club purchase a large supply pigeons themselves. I've got contact details. of homing pigeons. These would be trained to fly to the safety officer's house. Then, in an This all reminds me of the time I met a new emergency, you write down a message for help, club member wandering along a track in the strap it to the pigeons leg, and release it. dark one night without a torch after having been Despite the odd falcon casualty or pigeon loss, blitzed in pace by some then members on the this is far superior to an EPIRB because you way out to the hut. There were competing can get details of the problem out as well as a priorities on the night. It was cold, drizzling, location. Each member of the party could carry and everyone wanted to get inside as quickly as one, so that when they become lost or hurt and possible which may be why she got left behind. the group has spread out, they can call for help It's actually really easy to accidentally leave via homing pigeon straight from the club someone behind so it always pays to be without having to bother their trip leader who conscious of it because people are never quite might be miles away by this stage. Pigeons are aware they're doing it until it's too late. We also cheaper than EPIRBs, radios, or whistles. have a few rules which are used by some Also at night in the hut or campsite, instead of tramping clubs in this regard. They are; playing cards, we can listen to pigeon song. basically, stopping at every intersection, every Does anybody know how pigeons get on at river crossing and other significant places. altitude? Would these be suitable for Alpine trips as well? Having been party to the previous discussions on the virtues of homing pigeons as a modern Thanks for your valuable contribution. Clearly and safety critical communication method, I you've done wonders for this conversation. have hereby decided to 'upgrade' this mailing list to use aforementioned technological I second the homing pigeons idea. They have advances. All club communication will now be the added bonus that, should every party made on small roles of parchment attached to member carry one, and the party gets lost, they the leg of the official club pigeon (who will be can prioritise the needs of rescue with the named Gerald). If anyone has any questions I'll requirement for emergency rations. Using be in the 16th century. pigeons as an emergency food source has the added advantage that you shouldn't get bored, I think that the main thing is that it is a group (plucking pigeons is interesting work.,), and if exercise, not a race. If you've ever had the

-18- experience of being in a group that gets conditions (i.e. snowy tops in a blizzard) losing separated you know what a pain it is to get the your way can be very dangerous. If you keep group together (and how incredibly time everyone together you can make group consuming it is). decisions, and use the experience and judgement of the whole group. On another note, if the group agrees, you could split the group into smaller groups with a If groups are split up, designated leaders ought suitable leader in each. That way the fast to communicate with all members, the times people can go at a speed that is suitable for each group would expect to arrive at the them and the slower people can go at a speed destination and devise a plan if either group comfortable for them. does not arrive within a certain time after the scheduled arrival. The practice of separating groups into fast and slow needs a cautionary note. Make sure that Pigeons do sometimes have tendency to go to each group still has all the essentials (shelter, the great big aviary in sky without warning. food, first aid, map etc.) and are able to We'd need to factor in replacement costs as navigate safely to wherever you are going. If well. How much do homing pigeons cost and you are on an easy track, with good visibility how many were you thinking of buying? etc. you can break up safely I think. Generally I prefer keeping the group together as a whole, I decided I would be the sole dissenting voice because it is so easy to take a wrong turn off if of sanity. the track is ill defined etc. and in certain

-19- Following the Trail trees or the stems of saplings, and were not only visible by day, but even mildly reflective at night - until the rust set in. A few can still be Author: Peter Aimer seen on older tracks. (1953-56 and Life Member) But as the network of National Parks grew and Animals mark and follow their trails by means more trampers went into them in the second of scent and body odour. But the insensitive half of last century, and perhaps also as plastic noses of humankind are useless for that canisters took over from tin and aluminium purpose, and our civilised sense of decorum is a (who can remember M&B tins?) lids gave way further deterrent. Instead, we resort to visual to white-coated metal strips - like off-cuts of cues: cairns in barren rocky country, poles venetian blind. Rust was no problem (though in across the grassy flats or above the bush line. time they could become dulled by fungus), and the white colour made them easy to spot in the These haven't changed much since pioneer bush. The end of a strip could also be shaped to days, but within the bush, there's an historical a point like an arrow and the strip angled on the sequence from basic to more elaborate trail- tree to signal a change of direction ahead. Or, marking techniques. First came the blaze on more dramatically, several strips could be the tree - an axe-cut, taller than wide, and deep overlaid into an attention-grabbing cross or into the wood so that a scar remained for many asterisk to announce with reassuring clarity the years, perhaps for the life of the tree. Early start of the track, or a significant junction. editions of the trampers' bible, “Moirs Guide Book” (my copy is dated 1950) repeatedly The art of trail-marking by visual cues was thus directed parties to blazed trails: 'cross the river gaining in sophistication, but there was more to near an old camp site and a blaze will be seen come, and white strips in turn have now lapsed entering the bush'; 'From the Pyke Valley to into obsolescence. Nothing that had come the Olivine Flats a good blazed trail starts near before could compete with the slick, bright the top end of the shingle fan'; 'the track is well orange, plastic triangles that now guide legions blazed and leads through the gorge of the Wills of trampers and hikers along the usually River'. Blazes were not always easy to find or glaringly obvious tracks (rarely merely trails) follow as they aged and faded to the colour of that criss-cross DOC territory. Highly visible, the trunk. Philip Temple, recalling his descent rust-proof and probably resistant to fungus, of Scotts Creek into the Copland valley in 1960, DOC's triangles come with nail holes ready- writes of Harry Ayres 'fingering an almost made. They also can be angled to warn of a imperceptible blaze' before plunging into the change of direction or a sudden ascent or bush to follow 'an old indistinct track' ('Change descent. And note those super-size triangles at is a Fine Thing', p78). The party's relief at the the beginning of a track or where it continues sight of this tiny and primitive signpost pointing on the other side of a stream. No more anxious the way is palpable. searches for 'imperceptible blazes'.

In the early years, the resourceful pioneers What then of the future? Look out for markers supplemented blazes with the circular lids of that are not only visible by day, but glow in the jam jars and tin cans. They were readily dark - constantly, and not only when the beam available, economical, able to stand up to the of your torch strikes their reflective surface, or elements, easily nailed against the trunks of markers which make up your own innovation.

-20- Early Years and Present Day of O'Nuku Hut

“Piano Music” subject at first, second or third-year level) they Author: David Gauld passed at the end of the year. Of course, going to O'Nuku did not always "Freshers' Hut Weekend, March 1961 - We mean staying in the hut. It was often a base for freshers tramped along Cutty Grass Track from forays further afield - such as down the RGB the Scenic Drive Friday night. About half way track to the Anawhata swimming pool, or to along Ridge Road, we were entertained by Centennial, McKenzie and Piha gorge; and piano playing - there was a piano on a small there was always the more strenuous challenge grassy clearing (which is now covered with of a night in the Muirs (old hut, where now a 10m high trees)! In the morning, some of us day shelter is in the Pararaha - it was a were hauled out of our bags and sent back to mosquito-ridden hell hole, guaranteeing a collect the piano. So, for a few years we sleepless night), or perhaps on to DG enjoyed piano music in the hut. Alas! the rats (Destruction Gully - in those days a reasonable discovered the joys of piano playing too, but campsite overlooked the Manukau and Huia). their version involved removing the felt, But first you had to 'go up to the hut'. making the piano useless. In 1965, a new piano was bought in by man-powered trailer and we I remember that nights at O'nuku ranged from played chopsticks for the last time on the old 'chaos to calm', depending on who and how piano (only this time with an axe!)" many were there. Among those memories, I would not want to dwell on the awful, “Chaos or Calm” destructive (of person and possessions) water Author: Peter Aimer fights, the crush of bodies on dusty, lumpy (Student 1953-56 and Club Captain 1955) mattresses in front of the fire, the scurry of rats, or the military pacing of possums on the roof? - For me, as for many others, most visits to but ahh - the simmer of the stew in the billy O'nuku were spontaneous, opportunistic over the fire; the warmth inside as the rain excursions, sandwiched between essays, term crashed on the iron above; the creative genius tests and organised Club tramps. They might of the mural map on the end wall. Fond and have begun with a scribbled note pinned to the homely memories. cloisters noticeboard (a busy socialising point and hub of Tramping Club activity) announcing Yet it was getting to the hut and the moment of who was catching the 7.30 or 8.15pm evening arrival, that generated my sharpest memories. train to Waitakere, or getting the Piha bus to First there was relief - for going to O'nuku on Anawhata Road (the soft option). For some, Friday night was often a solo effort of 2-3 hours this urge to go to the hut for the weekend of solid tramping by torchlight from station to seemed almost obsessive. It was what we hut steps - I can admit now that there were might today call their 'brand', defining who they some scary bits on the way. Along Bethells were in the Club and sometimes sadly taking its Road, after you left scattered houses and before toll on the units (two or three linked papers in a the bottom of Long Drive, there were darkly

-21- shadowed places where the crunch of clinkered “Present Day” boots (metal objects on edge of leather-soled Author: Rebecca Caldwell boots which, along with hobnails, protected the sole and gave added grip on slippery ground) O'nuku is still a dusty, rat infested hut. No on the gravel was bound to alert whatever more piano (I guess the rats got the new one demons lurked in the undergrowth and then too) but there is still the mural and dusty along the track, there was always something mattresses, albeit less lumps :o). But in saying spooky about Smythe Corner and Simla that, a lot has been done with the Hut in recent (remains of derelict buildings). So O'nuku was times and thanks to our hut officer of 2008-09, always a welcome refuge from one's own we now have two new composting toilets. nervous imagination, or from the physical reality of wind and rain. Smythe corner and Simla still looks spooky, particularly with very little torchlight, but even My memories live in the sense of sight (coming with the still of the night, yet to hear the distant in from Piha bus, you caught a glimpse of sound of west coast surf or the sound of a pig Waitakere Reservoir and saw O'Nuku's roof falling in the undergrowth - by the time you with possibly a bit of smoke from the chimney might hear this, you are probably too tired as signalling prior occupation), sound (on still this is usually 3am when everyone has gone to nights, you could hear the distant drone of west bed after partying the night away. coast surf, or sudden crashing of a pig in the undergrowth) and smell (distinctive, welcome NB. These articles were published in the second redolence of creosote/wood smoke at the hut)." edition of “Belch”, 2009 (AUTC's newsletter), after O'Nuku Hut celebrated its 65th birthday. Since this was written, a few of our committee members got inspired and moved another piano into O'Nuku Hut - lets hope the rats don't make the same use of the piano as per the quote below.

“So, for a few years we enjoyed piano music in the hut. Alas! the rats discovered the joys of piano playing too, but their version involved removing the felt, making the piano useless”

-22- NORTH ISLAND New Years 2009 – joined the others at the reserve overlooking the Kai Iwi Lakes, Northland river and wondering where one carload had got to. A quick text later we learnt they were already at the campsite setting up their tents. 30 December 2008 – 3 January 2009 Back on the road again we arrived at Kai Iwi Lakes mid afternoon. After unloading gear and Author: Kylie Brewer setting up the tents it was off to explore, swim or just chill out - after all this is what the Attendees: Kylie Brewer, Jaimee Wieland, camping lifestyle is all about! For dinner that Craig Smith, Marcus Smith, Jeremy Chirnside, night we had a big BBQ with salads. After Aidan Thorp, Claire Oliver, Kristine Illsley, dinner it was time for more relaxing (with a Jeremy Beckham, Gracie Xiao, Kat Collier, glass of wine of course!) and we were treated to Alan Surrey, Alison Alvares, Tom Goodman, the most spectacular sunset. Tony Siu, Andrew Draper, Galina Redkina.

New Years Eve finally arrives and it’s another glorious day. Some members of our group were The 30th December dawned overcast and wet and not very promising for a fine new year, yet ever optimistic we departed from my house fully laden with all sorts of camping gear and more than enough food to feed the army! By the time we arrived in Dargaville for lunch the weather had cleared, the sun was shining and it looked like an afternoon of swimming and

up early exploring the lakes by bike and swimming. A while later the rest of us emerged from our tents for a leisurely breakfast.

sunbathing was ahead of us. Finding lunch in Dargaville proved to be a bit of a challenge due to a lack of cafes but we found something and

-23- pass the time while we waited for midnight to arrive (in between dodging the showers of rain)! We even went for a walk to see what the other campers were up to but it was all surprisingly tame. Later in the evening Claire brought out her glow sticks and we set about trying to transform ourselves into glow worms! Finally midnight arrived and it was time for countdowns (of which several could be heard throughout the campsite), champagne, hugs and Shortly after breakfast a few of us hopped into fireworks (thanks to some other campers). We the Land Rover and headed into Dargaville, then headed down to the beach for more late myself buying more group food for the BBQ night antics before retiring to our tents, listening that night and Andrew to collect his trailer after to the sounds of revelry from other campers. an unfortunate incident the day before. On arrival at the supermarket we soon learned that New Years Day and we were woken up at 8am it’s not wise to shop on New Years Eve as courtesy of Andrew deciding to play the everyone goes into their “the shops are closed Prodigy’s ‘Smack my bitch up’ nice and loud. It for a day and I may not survive” panic. The place was mad and we waited ages at the checkout, even joining separate queues didn’t help. Eventually we were free from the mayhem. Although, the madness wasn’t quite over yet… we had to push start the Land Rover in the middle of the Woolworths car park, somewhat embarrassing especially when one guy laughed at us thinking we had a flat battery even though we didn’t. We made it back to the campsite without further dramas. Back at the Lakes it was time for lunch. The others had had didn’t win us too many friends among the other quite a busy morning out, walking and biking campers who were obviously hoping for a sleep around the lake seeing what they could see. As in after too much partying the night before. the afternoon rolled around it was time for more Thankfully the music that followed was a bit swimming, lying on the beach and reading. more mellow and soothing. Slowly and surely Galina and Andrew headed off for some 4W we emerged from our tents and set about driving along the coast, while the rest of us were cooking our lured by the beautiful lake. Later that afternoon pancake exhausted from swimming, the troops came breakfast crawling back lured by the smell of the BBQ. complete After dinner it was time for games, first up, with bacon pass-the-parcel. However this was pass-the- yum! After parcel with a difference, each layer had an breakfast a alcoholic shot which you had to consume. Later group of us in the evening the weather changed and the consisting wind picked up, there was a mad rush to secure of myself, everything down and tighten guy ropes. We Jaimee, headed down to the beach to catch the last Craig, sunrise of the year, which sadly was not as Tony, spectacular as the previous evening. Back at our Marcus, site it was time for more drinking and games Galina, Alison and Andrew, piled into the Land including Rocks (Poker) and twister, trying to Rover and headed off to Omamari beach for

-24- some 4W driving. It was so much fun hurtling tramps to see the second tallest and the 4 sisters along the sand and driving over rocky outcrops kauri trees which were impressive in their own and the slightly hair-raising moment when we right. We piled back in the cars and set off thought we were going to get stuck in the sand again, this time for the Hokianga. Upon entering as the waves came in. Marcus and Andrew the harbour we were greeted with the most found the lure of the dunes too much and amazing view of the harbour and the sand dunes eagerly clambered to the top before jumping across the harbour. Upon arriving at Opononi down in their best superman impressions. After we split into groups and headed our separate the beach we headed back to the lakes and ways – some to buy lunch at “4 Square”, others decided to check out Lake Waikere where we to laze in the sun on the beach. Andrew, Marcus were rewarded with spectacular views of Lake and Alison set off in the boat for some sand Waikere and Lake Taharoa looking back boarding down the sand dunes while Jaimee, towards the campsite. There was even time for a Jeremy and I sought lunch and shade in the chance to lie in the grass watching the clouds form of the Opononi Speights pub and thus and contemplating our new year’s resolutions. where we spent a leisurely afternoon later After a bit more off-roading it was time to head joined by Claire and Aidan. Eventually we re- back to the campsite for lunch where the others grouped for fish and chips at the local were still playing cards. New Years afternoon takeaways before heading back to the camp site was spent as one should spend a beautiful sunny where we enjoyed a swim as the sun set over the day, lying on the beach with a good book and lakes and some chocolate brownies as darkness playing around in the water. As the Lakes are rolled in. Eventually people started heading for also a public domain, the beach was pretty their tents with a few brave souls choosing to packed with families and holiday makers. Once sleep under the stars! All was going well until 5pm rolled around the beach began to empty someone began to snore… the culprit was never which meant it was time for afternoon drinks found. and nibbles. Dinner time rolled around and it was gourmet pasta before people disappeared January 3rd dawned and I was up early for a bike their separate ways and a few of us continued to around the lake. On my return, some tired but sit and enjoy our glass of wine. It wasn’t going happy campers to be a boring evening as I suddenly spotted began emerging smoke coming from the Land Rover that was from their tents. being used to power the stereo. Realising this Breakfast was a wasn’t ‘normal’ I yelled out to Andrew that casual affair before perhaps he might want to check this out. I the big pack up haven’t seen anyone move that quickly for a began. It was rather while as sure enough there was a small fire in epic as 17 people the electrics. It was soon extinguished and we create a lot of mess resumed our previous activities and watched over 4 days, not to clips of “Man vs Wild” (an interesting mention all the gear programme to say the least). we had. One by one we finished and it January 2nd dawned and we were up early for was goodbyes all our day trip to Tane Mahuta and the Hokianga round before departing our separate ways. Harbour. We set off with the first stop to the While everyone else headed back to Auckland, info centre at the start of Waipoua forest to Alison, Jaimee and I headed off to Baylys learn about the history of the area and the Beach, a surf beach close to the Lakes. Sadly logging which took place at the turn of the the weather was threatening to rain so it was a century – it was no easy life! It was then a short short stop before heading to Mangawhai where drive up the road to see the ‘God of the Forest’ we were joined by Andrew for an evening of himself - Tane Mahuta, New Zealand’s tallest entertainment with comedian Ewen (kauri) tree. We also took a couple of side Gilmour and great kiwi band 'The Feelers'.

-25- Pouakai Circuit Trip Report circular tree/pasture line at the base of the mountain. The path crossed an ancient rock slip that was about a kilometre long. We reached the Auckland Anniversary Weekend - January 2009 luxurious Holly hut and cooked a mean feed of foodtown specials such as '4 for $2' sweetcorn Author: Aidan Thorp and tinned baked beans. The hut had a radioactive potbelly and several tonnes of coal Keen Trampers: Claire Oliver, Aidan Thorp, and wood stored. We resisted the temptation to Sebastian Heberling, Lina Stepick and Velizara make our own pet volcano with all that fuel. We Passajova. watched the sunset over the hills then drifted to sleep in the spacious hut all by ourselves. On the 24th of January 2009 at 8:30am, five smiling and keen people assembled at the quad The next morning we ditched the packs and to embark on a brief leg stretcher doing the went for a short walk to Bells Falls which Pouakai Circuit on the Northern side of Mt thundered through a gap in some 200m high Taranaki. cliffs. Then we went back to the hut and headed out over a large sphagnum moss swamp Time was tight as we had to accommodate between the Pouakai Range and Mt Taranaki. driving down, stopping to see all the sites and sounds in Otorohanga (of which there are

The track then climbed steeply up the Pouakai many), and tramping for 4 hours to the first hut. Range which had two hills shaped like two When we finally arrived at North Egmont, the golden bosoms. Oddly there was much sun was shining and we could see our track anticipation by the girls in ascending these. snaking up the mountain. Gaily we set off at a When we reached the top of the range, very gentle pace reflecting our general lack of Sebastian, Velizara and I ditched the packs and exercise and excesses of unhealthy drinking and went off to climb Pouakai while Claire and Lina eating over the Xmas and New Years period. decided the hut would give them better rewards. The path was called razorback but was in We practically sprinted up Pouakai without the excellent condition and the grade was not overly packs. Then we spent a good hour taking steep as it meandered up the mountain. The ridiculous photos and using the Trig for bush gave way to sub alpine herbs allowing us everything it wasn’t designed for. We met up to catch sight of magnificent volcanic spires and with AUTC life member Andy O’Loan and his outcrops high on the mountain. We were Mum, Eileen at Pouakai hut completely by convinced that someone should build a surprise. (These were the only people we saw monastery or castle atop these peaks. The ‘Naki on the tramp apart from one 70 something then welcomed us by lifting its clouds and naked tramper who had snowy white hair gifting to us a stunning view of its black rocky everywhere on his body, anyway AUTC peak, we also saw the curiously perfectly REPRAZENT!) We settled in at the hut, had

-26- another mint meal and watched the sunset over beauty. We reached some tarns as the sun began Taranaki. The hut had a million dollar view to rise and took some splendid photos. Ruapehu down the mountain and over New Plymouth and her younger siblings were clearly visible in which made our $15 hut fees suddenly seem the orange glow. We walked with unholy speed very reasonable. Velizara and Sebastian showed and had Skippy cornflakes and rice milk for their European toughness by sleeping on the breakfast atop Mt Henry at 7:00am sharp. The deck under the stars. track then descended down to rejoin the flanks of Naki and gave us a pleasant bush walk back to North Egmont.

Sebastian and I raced each other the last two kilometres up to the car and were thoroughly worn out by the end. We said goodbye to the Naki and promised to be back soon to summit it.

I would highly recommend the Pouakai circuit as a relatively easy and accessible 3 day walk. The track was generally excellent and the views were sublime. While it would be possible to do the tramp in two days (staying one night at Pouakai hut), logistically this would be either a The next morning we got up at the very social huge day driving and tramping 7-8 hours or time of 5:05am to see the sunrise and get involve staying the night at the camp house at Velizara and Lina home early to study for their North Egmont which would cost $30. I wouldn’t exam the next day. The rest of us were very go if the weather was marginal as the track is impressed at their keenness to go tramping prior completely unsheltered and exposed to the to an exam. We discovered that it was an ideal elements on all but the last few kilometres of time for tramping as the air was pleasantly cool the track. Thanks to Claire, Velizara, Lina and and the light on the horizon was a surreal Sebastian for being sweet as companions.

“The track then climbed steeply up the Pouakai Range which had two hills shaped like two golden bosoms. Oddly there was much anticipation by the girls in ascending these”

-27- Hunua Ranges Trip After the hill we took a track through dense bush, following a sign labelling the track as ‘experienced trampers only’. This sign was a 21-22 March 2009 little surprising to the group, as the tramp had been marketed as a beginners tramp. More hills Author: Jenny Long were climbed to reach the trip point where we were to spend the night. Shaun’s previous knee Attendees: Peter Luk (leader), Luke Kristensen, injury caused him some grief so we shared out Sander van Noorden, Eric Lalot, Marcus Chau, some of his gear and made frequent rest breaks. Sean Ng Kee, Pratibha Seethepali, Tom Wright, Our willingness to take these breaks may have Anna Tokareva, Katherine Heacock, Johannes been due to Shaun’s constant supply of nuts and Trapp and Jenny Long raisins.

Where: Hunua Ranges. From Upper Our rest Mangatawhiri Dam carpark to Trig K hut via spot for Liburne Road and Mangatangi Ridge Track. the Upper Mangatawhiri Track and Ernies Track to evening the Dam carpark. was the trig point Our group could reminisce about the pretty marking streams, views, lakes but it was the team the escapades and spirit that really made the tramp highest such an enjoyable weekend. hill in the Hunuas. The tramp got off to a good pace along a logging road. At the first stream most of the We had group took the more ‘traditional’ route of imagined jumping over the stream. Shaun decided that setting up throwing a heavy pack across the stream was our tents here but suitable ground was only more efficient than leaving it on his back when available for one tent. Eleven of the group spent he jumped as his fellow trampers had. Our a rather cosy night in a two-person hut. Peter’s resident French monkey decided that climbing a (our leader) fantastic home-made chocolate branch which leaned over the stream was a cake, with chocolate sauce helped ease any better way to get to the other side. Throughout discomfort. the trip Erick had disappeared out of sight, to be found a few minutes climbing a nearby vine or The following morning we followed a similar tree. The climbing fascination was particularly ‘experienced trampers only’ track, and tested concerning because our French Monkey was our ability to follow track markers in parts. We carrying our breakfast eggs. It’s a miracle they had lunch by a beautiful stream. The final two all made it in one piece. hours of the second day followed another logging road to allow us a quick pace to the cars The fast pace at the beginning of the tramp soon and comfort. slowed into an epic climb up an epic hill. The climb was supplemented with blazing sun, lots During the two days, Shaun and Anna had a of wasps and little wasp-like children out on a close race for winning the most points for Macleans College Duke of Ed trip. Our team falling over. Shaun emerged the winner and the dug in our heels to overtake the wasp-like two treated us to a two-course meal at the top of children to claim the supreme lunch spot at the Mt Eden following the tramp: appetisers and summit. Despite the hills, team spirit remained banana chocolate ice cream. Mmm mmm. really high. Thanks Peter and to everyone on the trip for making it a great weekend!

-28- Summiting the Pinnacles

Author: Loren O’Sullivan

Team: Kristina Aluzaite, Beatrice Bayly, Phil Billings, Raplh Kappus, Rosemary Ke, Georgina Langdon-Pole, Linda Lew, Peter Luk, Loren O'Sullivan, Tanja Pfennig, Arvin Wang and Jaimee Wieland.

One bright Monday morning 12 keen trampers set off from Auckland Uni not really knowing what they had got themselves into. Driving towards the Coromandel, looking up to the mountains, we realised that this trip was going to be one way – up!

After a bumpy pot-filled driving experience, we made it to the start of the track in one piece. Wanting to take a group photo, we were all We certainly knew that we had reached surprised to find that Jamie had not only civilisation once we got to the hut, or should I brought a very fancy Canon camera, but also a say mansion. Let’s just say that the Pinnacle’s tripod! It rose to the occasion, and we got some hut was way above my expectations of tramping beautiful pre-tramp shots. huts. A huge kitchen, a deck, a BBQ, beds, fireplace, longdrops, a shower – it was paradise. Blessed with some amazing blue sky, we set off, Enjoying the rest of the sunshine, some keen uphill. And, it kept going – up, that is. We all trampers headed up to the Pinnacles, while the started regretting bringing half our gear after rest of us lazy buggers relaxed and sunbathed. heading up those evil stairs and evil they were. But thankfully they came to an end. We Let’s just say it was worth bringing all that food managed to find a nice clearing to have lunch up to the hut, because we had a feast. Sorry in. Thanks to Peter we didn’t go hungry. guys about the burnt pasta though… On top of it Yummy tramping food was a great highlight of all Peter surprised us with a magnificent the trip which we all appreciated after those chocolate cake and chocolate sauce! Luxury! I stairs. We relaxed after lunch for a bit, until we think we all enjoyed digging into that while realised it was time to put our packs back on, hearing gruesome stories from Phil the fireman. and head up once again. But this time it wasn’t too bad. We all knew what we were in for and After dinner we all entertained ourselves, in began to relax and enjoy the scenery. Someone whatever fashion we deemed necessary. For me found a little path which lead to an amazing it was adding twists to card games of SNAP or view of the valley below. We all clambered Go Fish (or should I say Go Mackerel), while onto the rocks – some a little too close to the the more acrobatic of us, thought it was edge - it was camera time! necessary to traverse the table. That’s right, climb underneath the table (like a monkey) and One funny part of the tramp was the signs of come out alive. It was pretty impressive, I must civilisation. For example, the power lines say. On other levels, just wrong. But that’s a littering the landscape, reminded us that we matter of judgement I’ll leave to you. weren’t so isolated after all and Peter’s cellphone randomly going off in the middle of Exhausted, we all got an early night sleep, the tramp! Good he didn’t answer it, but still! knowing what the next day would bring - 5am

-29- start. No-one complained – amazing! We The rest of the day we pretty much slogged it. headed up to the Pinnacles after some yummy Downhill this time. We had a great lunch stop porridge. That’s right, UP again. But we all along a river. Some of us decided it would be knew it was worth it. To see that light on the great to go swimming. Others thought it would horizon suddenly burst into a bright ball of be entertaining to throw rocks in the water to sunshine… breathtaking! Having a hot drink up splash everyone else. The best part was there on top of the world, was a great start to watching a Lithuanian throw a rock at an another sunny day. Englishman with a German trying to be neutral in the middle. World War III had broken out. But it was all happy tramping back down to the carpark. We got some pretty good views on the way down – one being a pretty amazing waterfall, with some adventurous people abseiling it.

Once back at the river, near the carpark, we cooled down and relaxed our aching bodies. A dip in the freezing (and I mean numbing) water was a challenge for some – for others just entertaining to watch.

Ice-cream and fish and chips at Thames was a great way to celebrate our success of making it out alive. For many of us it was our first proper tramping experience. Hopefully it won’t be our last.

“The best part was watching a Lithuanian throw a rock at an Englishman with a German trying to be neutral in the middle. World War III had broken out .... But it was all happy tramping back down to the carpark”

-30- Karangahake Gorge Hauraki Plains below, and the other way, across to the Bay of Plenty. Below us the Karangahake Gorge was a tempting prospect for those 29 March 2009 sensible enough to bring their togs!

Author: Tom Goodman Before we knew it we were again in the valley, looking up and wondering how (and perhaps, Present: Sarah Wyse (Leader), Thomas more importantly, WHY?) we had climbed that Goodman (Leader), Craig Smith, Rachel bloody tall hill so damn fast. A brief interlude Simister, Gabriel Schwartz, Jesvin Boparoy, followed before starting part two of the David Bade, Huiling Chen, Ianna McCarthy, adventure, a casual exploration of the mining James McArthur, Adiba Nur, Jacob A. Korzun, tunnels, and a walk along the gorge itself. The Eugene Krimkevich water flowed beneath us, and more then one was tempted to just dive in, but fortunately In recent years the K Gorge has become an increasingly popular destination for AUTC, and this was no exception, in the end 13 intrepid trampers made their way, battling the prospect of rain, the evident chumminess and easy distractability of their two leaders, and heavy fog on the road (always an experience at 100kph!)…..

The rain threatened but never really came to anything, and soon the group was winding their way up the side of Mt Karangahake, with glorious sunshine and some spectacular views. persuaded to wait for that beckoning swimming Mining tunnels close to the track proved hole. irresistible to some, for others the remnants of native bush was preferred. Nervous moments The tunnels were thoroughly explored, followed when it transpired that Tom and Sarah especially by Mr Smith, who found not just one, but two different, not-entirely usual, ways of getting into one particular old working. Large steel gates and ‘keep out’ signs, clearing no obstacle here!

had only actually made it to the summit once, and they hadn’t really paid much attention to how they got there ... but with little delay we were all on the summit, with time for a lunch break (best taken while standing atop the trig). A leisurely break allowed the most to be made of sunny weather, giving great views of the

-31- A swim in the river followed next, however, its From here it was into Paeroa, where we appearance proved quite deceptive, and despite proceeded to empty a local Chinese shop of all attempts at bravado, soon all were forced from its produce. Amazing the appetite one can build the water. Back the way we came, hurrying to up on a day walk! beat the sun and our rumbling stomachs, but still time to explore more tunnels that went deep From here, our travellers made their way home, into the earth. fatter perhaps, but hopefully happier then when they came.

“Before we knew it we were again in the valley, looking up and wondering how (and perhaps, more importantly, WHY?) we had climbed that bloody tall hill so damn fast” …

“a brief interlude followed before starting part two of the adventure, a casual exploration of the mining tunnels, and a walk along the gorge itself”

-32- Tongariro Crossing and room. In the morning we drove to the Mangatepopo Road end and started the walk in Pirongia Walk brilliant sunshine. I got interviewed by some poor Asian dude carrying a gigantic video 5–7 April 2009 camera up the devils staircase who was making some kind of documentary (I put in heaps of Author: Aidan Thorp ‘yeah na’, ‘sweet as bro’ and ‘for sure’ for effect). We then decided to climb Ngauruhoe Keen Trampers: Dan Scott, Claire Oliver, clearing out any accumulated leg flab from six Scott Thorp and Aidan Thorp. weeks at uni. The view from the top was spectacular. We could see the Tama lakes, Mt Ruapehu, Mt Egmont and Lake Taupo. The deep crater atop the mountain was impressive. After carefully running down the mountain scree we continued along the path up to Red Crater and then down to the cold and beautiful Emerald Lakes. We then walked up to Blue Lake where Dan took a swim. I had to run off at this point down to the carpark to catch the bus. The others enjoyed a leisurely walk down to the carpark checking out the sulphur deposits by Ketetahi hot springs and then through the lush bush. As a note: I got a one way bus ride back from Ketetahi to the Mangatepopo Road junction and then ran halfway up the road till I got a lift the rest of the way. This ended up with With the two sweet weeks of mid semester us only having to pay around $3 pp for track break ahead of us, our group of 3 engineers and transport rather than the $30 pp we would have an architect decided we needed to get back to paid for all of us to take the bus. We were all our roots and go bush for a few days. Our plan pretty tired after the walk but we had epic feed was to walk the Tongariro crossing and then of homemade nachos. climb up the bush clad Mt Pirongia.

So we drove down to National Park stopping at a mean Thai restaurant in Taumarunui. We

stayed at the backpackers where we enjoyed bouldering around the indoor climbing wall which was conveniently right outside our bunk

-33- bush. The bush was very lush and we saw many wood pigeons and fantails. We also gorged ourselves on the largest and most plentiful Kaihikatea berries I had ever seen. The path was in the process of being turned into a doc state highway with magnificent glulam bridges and wide flat metal paths as part of the Te Araroa walkway. We reached the caves and really enjoyed squeezing our way through the thin damp limestone fissures. We saw lots of big cave wetas and there were a few stalactites. After an hour of walking alongside a stream we reached the 66.5m high Kaihikatea tree. It was like three trees stacked atop each other and well worth the look. Scott ingested some of the fallen The next morning we got up late and after berries from the tree and we debated how many hearing the weather report, decided to bail on dining room tables the tree could make. We our initial plan of camping at the top of then walked back to the car and drove back to Pirongia. Instead we decided to drive there and Auckland, concluding our tramp with watching check out some caves and the tallest NZ native 'Dancing with the Stars' together. tree in the world. We walked up Bell Track through 2km of farmland till we reached the

“We then decided to climb Ngauruhoe clearing out any accumulated leg flab from six weeks at uni” - “the view from the top was spectacular!”

-34- Destruction Gully Tramp With luck we might even see a seal; It looks like an overgrown eel; 6 June 2009 Don’t get too close or its teeth you’ll feel; By the Waitakere Ranges. Author: David Gauld We finally get to D. G. Track; Attendees: Marcus Chau, Abby Jacobs, Craig Up to the cars it will get us back; Smith, Laurence Brown, David Herron, Some chocolate will stop your energy lack; Lizzie, Tom Lazelle, Kat Collier, Alan Up the Waitakere Ranges. Surrey, Rachel Simister, Legita, Eric Lalot, Andrew Draper, David Gauld Now if you want to sing this song; Then you had better come along; If you go up to Alfred Street; The tramp is fun, don’t get me wrong; On Saturday 6th you’ll get a treat; In the Waitakere Ranges. The trampers go in booted feet; To the Waitakere Ranges.

We drive to Destruction Gully at first; It should take under an hour at worst; Then you can quench your tramping thirst; In the Waitakere Ranges.

The leader he is old and grey; He’s sixty-six if he’s a day; You can bet your boots he knows the way; Round the Waitakere Ranges.

We start across Omanawanui; The views will make you go all gooey; If not I say to you “then phooey”; In the Waitakere Ranges.

The track goes down to Whatipu With yet another view or two. You can even use the fancy loo In the Waitakere Ranges.

It’s time to tramp by the sea-side; We must hope that it’s about low tide; Or else you’ll get a wavy ride; From the Waitakere Ranges.

Keeping a wary eye on the sea; And scrambling o’er ledges, such fun you’ll agree; We’ll find the odd rock climb a bit tricky; By the Waitakere Ranges.

-35- Southern Crossing Attempt, had taken his wallet, and he was trying to get to Tararua Ranges the Hutt valley. We kept going and eventually a car stopped for us. It was a lady who was off to 1-3 July 2009 go hunting on her horse, so she took us part of the way down the road, and then we kept Author: Jane Dudley walking. We walked past some farmers herding their cattle down the road, and then we stopped Attendees: Jane Dudley and Anton Gulley. for some food and to put sun block on. A car was coming down the road, so we put our Anton and I had planned to do the Southern thumbs out again. The car stopped and the lady Crossing in the Tararuas using only our legs and inside gave us a lift all the way along the rest of public transport. I had just finished my contract the road. She was a local, and loved this area. at the Ministry for the Environment, and we had We got to the car park and had some lunch, and some time to spare. We allowed ourselves 3 then walked over the bridge that crosses the days to do the crossing, and would get in via Otaki river. It had been raining, but it wasn’t too train and bus, hitch or walk the rest of the way bad heading upwards. We passed through some in to the track end and then hitch and walk out farmland and then started to head into the beech and catch the train for the rest of the way. forest. We managed to get up to historic Field hut in about half the track time. We had some Day 1 food, and talked about carrying on. There was We started the day at 5:00am. We got ready, some more time in the day, and if we kept going had breakfast and from there we walked from we could get up to Kime hut and minimise the my flat in Kelburn down to the main Wellington amount of time we would have to spend on the train station, where we caught the train in to tops the next day. So we set off again, and Paraparumu. We saw Kapiti Island framed by headed up towards Kime hut. The track time the pink morning light. From there we caught said it would take about 3 hours. About 10 the bus in to the small township of Otaki (great minutes above Field hut we got out of the bush outlet store shopping for you outdoors line, and we started to see snow around us. We fashionistas/Ice breaker fanciers) and then made continued on up, and the snow around us got our way to the local Information Centre. From thicker and thicker. The snow poles were there we talked to the lady behind the desk sparsely placed and the mist was starting to roll about our intentions. ‘So you’re doing the in. The snow started to get so thick that Anton Southern Crossing….hmmm…not many people and I would plug steps, sometimes the snow do that in winter.’ She also told us about a was thigh depth. Being in snow conditions like shuttle that operated further down the road that this is exhausting; because you need to haul could potentially save us the walk from Otaki to yourself out of the snow once you are in that Otaki forks, the start of our track. The road walk deep. We kept on going up and got up higher. was about 20km, which we were comfortable We were in a bit of a hurry because there wasn’t with. At a good pace that’s about 4 hours, which too much left of the day, being winter it gets was fine given the amount of time we had dark at about 5:30pm. The snow started to get a allowed for the trip. We set off down the side of bit icy, which was a bit of a concern because we the highway, then turned down the long road only had ice axes and no crampons. We kept on that headed to Oraki forks. We arrived at the going upwards, the ridge started to plateau and backpackers and met the owner who ran the the weather became worse, it was snowing and shuttle service. When we found out that the windy, and very cold. We kept on going in the shuttle to the road end was $50 we rapidly gathering gloom and mist and strained our eyes backed out of the door and headed on our way. for the next snow poles. We had a good sense of We put our thumb out but didn’t get any lifts where we needed to go but we had our from the cars passing through the country side. compasses and maps with us as well. Map and We saw another hitchhiker in a hoodie going in compass were both absolutely necessary in the the opposite direction, it turned out his cousin white out, freezing conditions. Although we had

-36- a good sense of where we were, it was a good blue and clear. Anton didn’t have his sunglasses feeling to get to a well sign posted junction so I fashioned him some out of a muesli bar which pointed us in the way of Kime hut. The packet. You can make Inuit style sun glasses signs were covered in ice, with thick lumps of using cardboard and cutting slits in it for the wind blown ice sticking out of them. By this eyes. It restricts the amount of light coming in, stage we were surrounded by thick snow, so it protects you from snow blindness. covered in a coating of ice. The only vegetation we could see was lumps of frozen tussock. The We put on our still frozen jackets, unstuck our conditions were windy, misty and freezing. I ice axes from the frozen table and we set off to felt a tinge of anxiety for other trampers that finish the rest of the crossing. Above the hut we might come here - we were fairly fit, had a tent had a fantastic view across to Ruapehu, if we really needed it, and we were having a Taranaki and the Kapiti coast. We got up to hard time. What about other people with less Field peak, but the snow was so icy we had to experience/luck than us? I knocked some of the constantly cut steps. Modern ice axes aren’t thick frozen ice off the signs so other trampers really suited for step cutting, being shorter than could see the signs a bit better when they got to the old wooden handled ice axes, which were them. It was getting darker and darker. Anton the perfect height for step cutting. We were also and I both knew we couldn’t afford to get lost, wearing modern tramping boots rather than old even though we had brought a tent with us. The school hob nail boots, which would have been conditions were so cold and windy, they were handy in the conditions. I felt a bit bad that we ripe for hypothermia if we were forced to pitch hadn’t brought crampons, I had heard from two it. It was getting colder as the darkness fell, and experienced sources that you don’t really need we continued on through the blizzard crampons in the Tararuas in winter, but I guess conditions. Our packs and jackets were covered the conditions were worse than usual. From in a layer of ice and we were starting to slip on where we were we could see, the weather just the ice beneath our boots. All I wanted to do started to turn for the worse, so we made the was to get to the hut, and you know what it feels decision to turn back to Kime hut. The funny like when you are in those conditions and you thing is, turning back is harder than going on. finally see it. We saw the Kime hut. We were You think that determination is hard, but self filled with relief. But it was completely covered restraint and patience is much harder. It was a in thick ice, with large icicles hanging from its real disappointment: we had wanted to do this roof. We couldn’t get in through the door, so we trip for ages, we were right here, and it would had to break off enough ice to get in. For a be a hassle to get back out from Otaki forks. But minute I thought we might not be able to get in, it was definitely the right decision, and in a but we bashed our way through the ice with our way, that turned out to be the best lesson of the ice axes and levered the door open. Once we trip. Above the bush line, things are so much were inside we saw that wind blown snow had less forgiving, and being able to back off is a filled the hut. It was freezing, but we peeled off good skill. As the late Sir Ed used to say our wet and soaking gear and got into warm ‘patience is the greatest virtue of the clothes. We walled off a corner of the hut with mountaineer.’ Not that I think Field peak counts the mattresses we found there to insulate as a mountain, but yeah, patience is good. So we ourselves against the cold and made ourselves retreated back to Kime hut, and took off the dinner. Kime hut was originally built as a next morning. From there we knew our way shelter as a reaction to trampers that had died of back down the ridge. The snow got softer, and exposure on the long stretch of tops on the we got back to the bush line. Getting into the Southern Crossing. Kime hut has no fire, and bush felt like an embrace. It was sheltered and our boots froze to the floor in the night. we were out of the wind. Ten minutes later we were in Field hut. We got the fire going, and put Day 2 dinner on. We felt really happy and relaxed. We In the morning, we woke up to a beautiful day. had turned back where we needed to, but we The sun was beaming down, the sky was bright had also done a great Alpine tramp up to Field

-37- peak, seen amazing views, and gotten back safe. wilds. Overall it had been a great trip, despite Field hut seemed like a warm haven compared not making it all the way across the Southern with freezing Kime hut (A.K.A the fridge on the Crossing. ridge). Although that had seemed like a haven at the time too. Postscript About two weeks after our trip, two trampers Day 3 died on part of the same track that we had gone We packed up and headed down the track and on. They had headed up from Otaki forks, past got out into the dewy countryside at Otaki forks. Field hut, and continued on, attempting to get to We walked down the road for about 30 minutes Kime hut. They were in blizzard conditions and until the first car that went past gave us the best had lost their way and became hypothermic in hitch ever, all the way down the road and back the thick snow. It was a sad reminder of how to Paraparaumu. We were back there by 11am dangerous conditions can be in bad weather on that morning and caught the train back to the tops. downtown Wellington. It felt a bit strange to be back around suburbia after a few days in the

“So you’re doing the Southern Crossing….hmmm…not many people do that in winter.”

______

“You can make Inuit style sun glasses using cardboard and cutting slits in it for the eyes. It restricts the amount of light coming in, so it protects you from snow blindness”

-38- The Adventures of Five Day Two: ‘I need no map,’ said Gimli, gazing out before Hobbits – (Actually a dwarf, a him with a strange light in his deep eyes. ‘There wizard, a hero king of men, a shield maiden is the land where our fathers worked of old, with an attitude problem, and an unnervingly and we have wrought the image of those slimy, fish-smelling creature. Oh, and a Rhino). mountains into many works of metal and of stone, and into many songs and tales. They *** This was a trip with a difference with a stand tall in our dreams: Baraz, Zirak, Shathûr. 'Lord of the Rings' theme in the Only once before have I seen them from afar in Kaimanawas *** waking life, but I know them and their names ... Yonder stands Barazinbar, the Redhorn, cruel July 2009 Caradhras, that in your tongue you call Mt. Urchin; and beyond him is Silvertine: Celebdil Author: Kat Collier the White, Zirak-zigil, that you call Umakarikari’. (Dwarves, as you can see, are The Fellowship were: Rion Gulley, Nick rather more verbose in Tolkien than in Gulley, Andy Baddeley, Andy Thompson, and Jackson.) Kathleen Collier. Now see if you can work out who was who. :-P * Hills. Lots of hills. Éowyn begins fervently to wish that she had brought her horse. ‘When Mr. Rion Gulley of AUTC announced that he would shortly be celebrating the July * Fellowship reaches the top of Redhorn pass. holidays with a tramping trip of special Yes!! Much triumphant war chanting and loss magnificence, there was much talk and of clothing ensues. excitement in Hobbiton ....’ * Éowyn spots Crebain from Dunland. ‘Spies of Day One: Saruman!’ shouts Gimli, throwing himself face- * Council of Elrond called. Location, on second first into the nearest snowdrift. Cunning ranger glance, is not in fact Rivendell, but the lair of of the wilderness, Aragorn, conceals himself strange, manky, fish-smelling creature behind marker pole and attempts to look as thin somewhere in Taupo. and metallic as possible. Other members of Fellowship look on in bemusement. * It becomes apparent that Fellowship is minus entire contingent of hobbits. Including ring- * On closer inspection, Crebain prove to be a bearer. No elves either. Or shifty-eyed men of distinctly un-threatening species of small finch. Gondor with an unhealthy fondness for horns. Emboldened by this victory, Fellowship storm onwards towards the peak of mighty Caradhras. * Bold questors refuse to be daunted by such trifles. * Weather becomes fouler and fouler. Fellowship curse piker Legolas and his tummy * Gimli disappears into pub. Cannot be aches. Just when an elf might have been useful extricated, even with the application of in order to skip merrily over mountain ranges Gandalf’s staff, shards of Narsil re-forged, and and drag back the sunshine.... No consideration a fairly hefty crowbar. at all... * Strange, manky, fish-smelling creature has an * We faced the wrath of Caradhras!! Much inordinate fondness for home makeover shows. needed Lembas break. Gollum and Gimli Fellowship beat a hasty (but honourable) retreat celebrate conquest by engaging in jet plane dog to hot pools. fights. Must be training for Nazgûl attack or some such.

-39- * Attack!! Gandalf and Éowyn treacherously ambushed by heavy barrage of missiles. Orcs * Gandalf reads bedtime stories from suspected at first, but no... Tricksy Gollum has Footprints ’07 - great epic legends of the past. betrayed us! Wielding his ice axe, Gimli No songs, thankfully. charges into the fray, but the hopes of Gandalf and Éowyn are soon dashed. With a hoarse cry Day Three: of “Barûk Khazad! Khazad ai menu!” a * Nothing much of note. Lots of snow. Gandalf treacherous snowball is launched straight at shows dignity befitting to one of his advanced Gandalf’s head. Gandalf and Éowyn are beaten years by attempting to catch snowflakes on his back, caught between a cliff face and a tongue. precipice, and shameful defeat is near.... * Gimli and Éowyn argue about whose * Suddenly, out of the mist strides Aragorn, son character got most butchered in movies. Gimli of Arathorn, with the shards of Narsil, the ice claims he gets best deal, as he gets free ticket to axe re-forged in his hand! He smites Gollum a undying lands and kinky elf lady all to himself. great smite with a snowball, and the wretch Éowyn refutes this by pointing out that she gets tumbles from sight, cursing and shrieking Faramir. Faramir = hot. mightily. * Gimli called upon to tell tales of ancient * Rightful king of men now turns his attention dwarf realm. Gandalf asks for a story about the to the treacherous Gimli. Éowyn and Gandalf origin of Cabbage Trees of the Valar. History leap back to the affray. First proof of the well- has become legend, legend has become myth, known fact that forces of good ALWAYS and the real truth is now known to none. triumph over evil! Huzzah! * Gollum attempts to join tale-telling by * At about this point, Gandalf and Gimli both disproving existence of the fabled alpine Rhino. begin to feel desperate need to acquaint Gimli swiftly sets him straight on this count. themselves with Moria long drop facilities. Fellowship thus reunited by pursuit of common * Mountain defeated, all jet planes consumed. goal. Probably ruling ring was also destroyed, but no one can remember it happening. * Fellowship reaches hut!! Gandalf barricades himself in long drop and explains to Gimli in an ‘At last the companions turned away, and never entirely civil and non threatening fashion again looking back they rode slowly exactly why he shall not pass. homewards... and they went on, and there was yellow light and fire within; and the evening * Dinner of many lentils. Somehow, does not meal of beer and chips was ready, and they quite match up to anticipation of honey cakes were expected...' and spiced elf wine. Somewhere, a Rhino drew a deep breath. ‘Well, * Boys play endless rounds of 500. Éowyn, I’m back,’ he said. somewhat anachronistically, fills in hut book in elvish. Boys play more 500. Éowyn scribbles (Plagiarised with cheerful impunity from J.R.R. elvish graffiti on every available surface. Tolkien.) Combination of Gollum-ish sneakery and dwarvish guile emerges triumphant over the Gandalf/Aragorn wisdom-and-heroics combo.

-40-

Kaimais Trip potholes as possible. It was impressively windy along the top and there was no rock in sight. There was some creative interpretation of the 1-2 August 2009 track markers through the thicker scrub but we made it through back out to the knee-high stuff Author: Ellen Barnard in good time. Frolicking ensued for several.

Attendees: Lisa Chang, Eric Lalot, Kynan Alas, we reached a point where the track Bleaken, Peter Luk, Luke Kristensen, Ellen dropped sharply into indeterminate bush, still Barnard, Jenny Long (leader), Scott Hutchings, with no giant rock. Peter and Eric climbed up a Mingyi Huang, Tony Sui nearby tree to improve their view, losing Eric’s pack in the process. Then a branch broke and Where: Te Rereatukahia Loop Track dumped Peter 2m down where he landed on his feet next to the aforementioned pack. As he We started off on Hot Springs Rd after leaving was unharmed this was cause for great the vehicles; an oldish, knowledgeable-looking amusement. bloke by the track entrance suggested that we do our stream crossing early on in case it rained on Giving up on the rock we had an uneventful us. Hence we took the flatter route up to the journey back to the hut, except for some hut, enjoying various views of bush along the additional frolicking. The trip back down was a way. bit steep as the relatively-inexperienced tramper fell (me), but we took our time. We did lose The hut was visible a long way off thanks to its Eric a few times; up trees and such like. We nice white chimney. Besides our group there had lunch at the track intersection and were two fellow trampers residing within; eventually reached the stream. Our crossing combined with the extra bloke who turned up was epic; linking arms, we strode through the after dark. Card games ensued after a good mighty waters, some of us even getting wet dinner of mince and pasta. Chocolate was also nearly up to our knees. provided. Scum was the game of choice, then 500 for the people who weren’t yet ready to The journey along the road to the Sapphire sleep. Springs wasn’t as exciting, but there was a very nice magnolia tree on the right. The hot pools We set off without our packs on Sunday themselves turned out to be lukewarm. Oh well, morning, intending to find Wahini Rock it wasn’t half bad. There was some confusion somewhere along the old track. Paying our over who had achieved the most falls, but no respects to the ‘experienced trampers only’ sign, one topped Peter’s tree incident. T’was a great we clambered up the hill avoiding as many weekend.

“There was some confusion over who had achieved the most falls, but no one topped Peter’s tree incident”

-41- Mt Taranaki & Ngauruhoe 3am – we could hear the wind howling. Would Trip we be able to walk up? I managed to get everyone up. We headed up Taranaki in the crisp morning air, by the light of the full moon 4–6 September 2009 and clear skies. Part way up, the horizon started to glow and we witnessed a beautiful sunrise Author: Craig Smith over Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe & Tongariro. We were almost alone on the glowing red mountain, Party: Craig Smith, Kat Collier, Andrew our blue shadows contrasted against the pink Baddeley, Christina Fullerton, Lois Alison- snow. As we walked up the valley at the start of Cooper, Jeff Ducrot, Nadia Wollkopf the track we set off mini avalanches of flowing polystyrene, or sistrugi which was knee deep at times. Half way up the wind increased…would we be able to make it all the way up…whether to continue..? Luckily we did. Once we got around the other side it was more sheltered, well for a bit anyway... Crawling up the last bit into the crater on all fours like a monkey, we braced ourselves against wind gusts and protected our faces from flying ice bullets. I was glad for my helmet. We dug out a seat for a 9.30 ‘lunch’ stop on a steep slope just below the summit where it was more sheltered. The path leading to the summit was like walking on marbles, over a river of glass/crystal like ice flakes (sistrugi). We had a stunning view of snow capped On Friday afternoon we set off for Mt Taranaki, Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe & Tongariro, the west with some carrot fights and playground fun coast and surrounding ranges, and there were along the way. Eventually we found our way spikey cauliflower shaped ice formations. As we walked down, many others were on their way up and we arrived at the bottom to join Kat and Andy’s sunbathing picnic (Kat had had to turn back because of her asthma).

from New Plymouth to Mt Taranaki. We cooked dinner in the shelter of the Taranaki Visitor Centre toilets foyer. Mince and veges, courtesy of left-overs from the Hut birthday, with nachos and cheese. Andy T and Dan We took the forgotten highway to Taumaranui arrived in time for dinner and with our gear. It because it’s just as fast as the state highway was a 1hr walk to the hut via torchlight for a according to Andy T. It was a lovely drive few hours sleep. though. We stayed the night at Mangatepopo hut and enjoyed a fantastic view of Tongariro &

-42- Ngauruhoe, by light of the full moon from our Tama lakes, Ruapehu, South crater, Tongariro, balcony, while photographer Andy took some Lake Taupo, Mt Taranaki. The edge of the alpine panorama shots. Ngauruhoe crater was crusted over with a bench of ice and there were again awesome ice On Sunday the wind was too high for an alpine formations but flower shaped ones unique from start and we were all keen for some sleep. By those on Taranaki. We bumslid down the the time we set off at 9am the wind had died wicked Ngauruhoe snow slide; leaving our snail down and we’d been blessed with another trail mark on the mountain. Then returned to bluebird day! Andy explored a new route up the Auckland via hotpools. What an awesome trip!! ridge to Mt Tongariro while the others of us headed up Ngauruhoe. What an awesome view!

“That’s not an onion, it’s a carrot. Can’t you see it’s red?” – Andy, Taranaki

______

“Were you guys planning on getting out of your sleeping bags at all today?” “Not so much, no” - Craig and Andy, Ngaruhoe

-43- Ruahines (Inter-Semester Break) river doesn't reveal safe crossing point let alone any markers or indication of where the track might be. Decide today is not our day, stay in Otukota eating and drinking. September 2009 Day 3: River still presents challenge. Take Author: Richard Greatrex alternate route up onto tops, aiming for Crow Hut south along the main range. Swift climb up Attendees: Craig Smith, Richard Greatrex, Eric a steep spur leads to edge of bushline by Lalot, Christoph Baumgart midmorning. Markers cease, it's map and compass from here. Soft snow makes it's Day 0: Camp out on the side of road by car. Eat presence quickly known as the leaders drop into Nacho's (tasty). knee deep snow every time, thigh deep regularly and waist deep occasionally. Begin to crave Day 1: Meet Hugh and do a car shuttle. Pack hard ice for cramponing...we'll get it higher up. packs - realise what we have gotten ourselves Now higher up...snow still killing us. Try track into - shoulder 30kg+ packs and begin walking through a patch of forest on other side of ridge. up to Colenso Trig. Realise we have reached No, the snow is even worse there and there is Colenso Trig when we walk into it in the near the added delight of having snow drop down the whiteout. Navigate along ridge in snow to back of your jacket as you punch through trees. junction with marker poles. Stop Craig from Back out to the open. Up. Reach top of ridge walking down wrong ridge with nifty compass and it's only afternoon. Still have twice as far to work. Paranoid about missing marker poles. go again and the snow is as soft as ever. The Refer GPS, realise we should have worked out maths doesn't work. Eat lunch looking out over how to use GPS prior to trip. Realise batteries spectacular view with glorious sun. Return to won't last long in cold. Retire GPS. Find marker Otukota Hut for yet another night. poles, follow to bushline. Descend through bushline. Continue descending. Continue Day 4: Determined to leave this area now. descending down near vertical slope. Dark falls. River lower thanks to sunny weather yesterday. Continue descending. Reach river. Crossing Still no markers. Cross and begin highly nowhere in sight. Track on other side nowhere orchestrated(!) search for track. Success! Climb in sight. Downstream: gorge, Upstream: bigger up again and have a day of travel through snow gorge. Recce downstream, and both sides of coated forest. The snow starts low down and river. Nothing. Climb back up scree slope, there stays soft the whole time. By midday the sun is by this point much swearing and tiredness. has degraded the open parts so that it is not The packs still weigh 30kg. Call it quits for unlike walking on quick sand. Other than the night and retire uphill to makeshift campsite. strength used up in plugging the snow, a great Cook stir fry which makes up for everything. day and another brilliant lunch spot. Icicles coat many of the trees and there is a continuous Day 2: Wake up in tent. Craig & Christophs white carpet. Reach Maropea Forks Hut without sleeping bags soaked through from being on incident. This was my favourite hut of the trip, edge of tent. Much swearing ensues. Speak to beautiful setting, well built, plenty of space. Mountain Radio Wellington who get DOC to confirm that in fact the track still exists, and so Day 5: An alpine start to get ahead of the soft does the hut. Much amusement from MR snow. The day starts well because my boots had through this process. Strike camp. Walk all the fully dried out overnight and I treated myself to way back down the hill. See track and crossing a new pair of socks. We begin to head point half a klick upstream, as clear as the downriver and I happily note that the water is daylight that we now have to see by. Five very shallow. A few hundred meters minutes later at the hut. Go down to river, downstream the river forks and we head up the running dangerously high. A scout up and down opposite fork back upriver to the start of the

-44- track. I look at the opposite side, and with enough for me and wordlessly (because despair at the channel between just a few speaking was impossible in the wind) I gave the centimetres higher than the top of my boots. cut-throat motion and thumbs down to everyone With loud comments and much ill-feeling I plod else. We headed back down the hill and again across and resign myself to snow and wet boots the bush afforded us so much protection that for another day. The alpine start works wonders, things were silent. The soft snow is an and by 11am we are standing in front of advantage now, letting us slide, jump into Wakelings Hut having had a crisp trip, back patches and take long steps with the snow down to only 900m elevation but already a light giving way and gently breaking our descents. dusting of snow covers the river banks, hut and We slalom'ed on our boots through gaps in trees trees. and jumped down slopes that we had gone up on all fours just hours ago. Day 6: Today brings the first of two full alpine passes that we need to get out and back to the Back in the hut for another night and we decide car. Making another alpine start we head up the to give the open fire a miss. A cunning plan hill, our headtorches illuminating the open (trade secrets not revealed) sees the gigantic forest and bobbing around above and below hole blocked up though. clearly showing the location for the rest of the team. Losing the route is easy, the markers are Day 7: In the morning nothing has changed and widely spaced in places but we quickly get into we begin to get worried about making it out a routine, always leaving one person to mark the with any food left. Mountain Radio gives us a last known track position, the rest spread out in glimmer of hope though... a weather window a fan shape uphill scouring tree trunks between might open up toward the end of the day. At ground and waist height for markers. It is mid-day Rick, who has kindly put on an extra snowing but we are well protected in the bush sked for us, tells us there is no change but for now. Just around dawn we get to the top of reminds us that the next front is still moving in. the treeline and gear up for the tops. Extra Within half-an-hour we are out of the hut and layers, balaclavas and a quick snack. The rest of heading up the hill. As we go up the weather us have had our ice axes out for a while but Eric begins to clear exactly as forecasted. We changes his walking stick for his axe, so we manage to get up and over our first crossing and know he expects it to get serious. down to Crow Hut, making our way across a gigantic swing bridge just as dusk falls. Our We head out of the treeline and the wind hits weather window is closing fast and we opt for like an express train, luckily blowing us into the another early start tomorrow. slope. I drive my axe down into snow and kick in a deep step. Waiting for a break in the wind I Day 8: We are up on the tops by dawn again plunge forward across the slope, driving my axe and fittingly, we experience our best day of the in for another good placement. A few more of trip. Perfect snow conditions and unlimited those and I have the strength of the wind judged visibility. We set up the mountain radio on the and progress is faster. Craig is 10m ahead but top of the ridge and speak to Wellington again, we can barely see the next marker pole through who arranges our pickup from Kawhatau Base. the falling snow, let alone the summit. We look Now on a timetable, we fast track it down the around and decide to press on for a while. We hill, hitting a very steep slippery scrubby section make our way across to the next pole and as we near the bottom which slows us up do, the wind picks up a chunk of snow the size considerably. We get a great treat here, and of a car bonnet from below us and slams it into finish the trip with a cable car ride across the the slope right between Craig and I. That was river.

-45- Moonlight Crossing As we got closer to the mountains, the weather became more and more promising, one single small cloud was casting its shadow across the September 2009 slopes of Ngaruahoe, but the rest of the sky was clear. The track into Mangatapopo hut was Author: Andy Baddeley shared with several huge guided groups of tourists being on their way back from a failed Trampers: Joe Nelson, Jeff Ducrott, David attempt to do the crossing during the day.., Baddeley and Andy Baddeley according to the “expert guides”, no one had been able to complete the crossing that day due T'was a dark and stormy night, three brave to “bullet ice” up the top, and as a result of this, trampers were stuck in a hut, wanting to walk we really should not be attempting such a bold outside, but knowing there was little point. expedition, especially at night time. Of course, After sitting there in the vain hope that the having never heard of bullet ice before, we weather would clear, they gave up, and went to carefully considered our future plans, and how bed, setting the alarm for 2 hours later, hoping dangerous the night could be, approximately 2 that, somehow, the weather would then be clear. seconds later, we decided that the guides were The alarm rang, one brave tramper looked full of it and we probably knew more about the outside, and saw a break in the cloud so the hazards than they did. Upon reaching the hut other two excitedly packed up their gear, got we met a French guy who had, contrary to what ready to leave the hut and brave the snow. They the self proclaimed experts told us, walked over all headed out onto the deck to find that it was, the hill.., and done so wearing light boots and once again, raining... a result that encouraged with no ice axe or crampons. them to head back inside and sleep once more. This told us two things, the French guy was a After several similar stories, with three common nutter, and the guides were generally points, the desire and intention to walk the reprehensible, taking a bunch of tourists up the Tongariro alpine crossing by the light of the hill promising them something that they moon, reflected in the pristine snow, my couldn't safely provide, and citing bad presence, and the presence of rather shocking conditions as a reason to turn back when one weather. couldn’t have asked for a better snow pack for walking. Finally after 4 years of trying, the weekend came. Nothing but a full moon and perfect After a dramatic sunset, we headed out into the weather was organised, but Friday night at the valley, the only light to be seen was the stars edge saw a bunch of climbers gathering.., word above, and the reddish glow emerging over and spread, and by the end of the night, Jeff and Joe, around the hills toward Whakapapa village. We without too much persuasion, agreed that it quickly (it wasn’t especially warm) climbed the seemed like a good idea. Persuading David newly re-routed devil's staircase, and watched later wasn't especially challenging either. the moon rise slowly as we reached the far side of the crater. There was a certain (around -10 We departed Auckland at a very respectable degree) chill to the air, but it was so still that as hour the next morning, but in a bit of a hurry long as we kept walking, we were at no risk of since we needed to be at National Park before getting cold, so we stopped and posed for 4:00pm so we could get dropped off at the track photos, becoming aware of how cold it actually end. The trip down was punctuated by a variety was. of exciting distractions, the purchase of provisions, (including a large, delicious, but There was a little dissent in the ranks, and cheap bag of carrots, and the moonlight crossing Ngaruahoe was not summited that night, but we traditional sustenance... a large packet of cookie did find our way to the peak of Tongariro, after time cookies and the ingredients for nachos. much playing on rime deposits on the track

-46- markers. We headed north from the summit, sunrise before a final carrot sword fight, and an dropping down to the valley below, south of amble down the road. North Crater and wandered onward, enjoying the mistic eire beauty of the mountains at night.

- Breakfast with a view -

- Who could ask for clearer skies? - The trip back saw a few more carrot-related shenanigans and my first attempt at “exhaust We arrived at Ketetahi hut at the very civilised manifold garlic bread”, the experiment resulted hour of 1am, and crawled off to bed as quietly in somewhat inedible results, but was a good as possible. In the morning, we breakfasted on proof of concept, next time it will involve more a beautiful deck with a spectacular view of the layers of foil and possibly a better bread- retention system.

“the purchase of provisions, (including a large, delicious, but cheap bag of carrots, and the moonlight crossing traditional sustenance... a large packet of cookie time cookies)”

______

“We arrived at Ketetahi hut at the very civilised hour of 1am”

-47- Cape Reinga devoured, followed by chocolate log. Our appetites satisfied, we sat around the fire, trying to avoid the smoke, until our beds called us in. AKA “A long time getting nowhere in particular”

8-11 September 2009

Author: Tom Goodman

Attendees: Commander: Andrew “Hudson” Hudson and Ratings: Gemma “Nazi” Augustin, Thomas “Tent” Lazelle, Richard “Kid” Duggan, Katie “Mum” Heacock, Thomas “Tubby” Goodman, Sarah “Tiny” Wyse, Tony “Token” Siu, Mira Muth

On a crisp September morning, 8 intrepid explorers set off on a journey to the ends of the - tent site on first morning - earth, well, the end of New Zealand anyway. Our first stop was Newmarket to get Andrew’s The sun rose and showed our position, halfway pack, meanwhile Tony, following in the other down Spirit’s Bay and no sign of civilisation in car, was getting more confused by the minute. sight. Katie announced that she had been for an Eventually, however, we were on our way. A early morning swim, strangely no one was stop to pay the toll for the northern gateway tempted to join her. We headed down the beach, provided an opportunity for all to stock up on stopping frequently to look at bluebottles, much junk food for the journey, and it was then that fun was had by all racing waves up the beach. your author realised his tent was still sitting on Some were better at this than others. his dining room floor. Sarah was not impressed, although it gave the others a certain amount of The end of the beach came at last, bringing our amusement. first hill with it. A soft patch of grass provided the perfect place for morning tea, before we left At Whangarei we stopped to collect our last the coast and headed inland, and up! As we member, with the added bonus of an extra tent! ascended this muddy four-wheel drive track, our After several drives up and down the main conversation turned to other matters, religion, street, some bright spark suggested Pizza Hut politics and philosophy. Those were small steps all-you-can-eat for lunch. Several hours later, for men, great leaps for mankind. At least we stomach bulging, we negotiated our way out of reached the top, didn’t we? Ah no! Before us we the city, which seemed rather keen to keep us saw the rolling hills stretching out ahead of us. there forever. It was most deceptive. Here Andrew filled us in on that old tramping adage: We arrived at Spirit’s Bay just as the sun was setting, and headed down the beach. In the “Whatever goes up will keep going up, distance the Cape Reinga lighthouse could be whatever keeps going up will continue to go up, seen, the moon was shining above us, and the and whatever goes down must eventually go surf produced a display of colour with every up”. wave. After a couple of hours, a mutual consensus was reached to call a halt for the night. Tents were erected, driftwood collected and a fire lit. The air was filled with the smell of frying, as fish burgers were prepared and then

-48- Bay and beyond to North Cape. Being able to see both the east and west coast of the country at the same time is something you don’t experience everyday!

One last down tramp back to the water, one last up, and suddenly we were walking on a sealed footpath, with tourists all around us. Before us was Cape Reinga reserve. We rested briefly before making our way to the lighthouse, where we took the compulsory shots of ourselves and the famous signpost, some individuals were rather creative with the use of this in their photos.

- track stretching ahead of us, day 2 -

Throughout the day these ups got steadily larger, bringing us eventually to the coast. The wind blew in our faces and the waves crashed on the rocks below, it was a wild place. Behind us we could see the far end of Spirits Bay where the trip had begun, ahead we could see Maria van Diemean, which we planned to reach that afternoon. But first, more hills could be seen ahead. One last steep descent down a rocky headland saw us reach our campsite for the night. First port of call was the local long-drop and the taps where we could fill our water bottles. A look at the map showed we were now at our intended morning-tea spot for the day, After sitting down for lunch in the Cape Reinga were our plans perhaps a little optimistic? An carpark, we scored a ride in a bus 20 minutes extensive revision of our intended route ensued. down the road to the next part of the track, to the relief of us all. More animated conversation As dinner cooked, the cards were dragged out of followed, this time global warming was put to their packs, hard-fought games of 500 followed, the test as we plodded along. Our first camp-site the contestant wrapped in their sleeping bags. was rejected as the only water was from a Every so often a nearby tent offered its opinion nearby trough, and we headed down along the upon the proceedings, the boys seemed to be same track we had come along the previous day, enjoying themselves, to the amusement of those towards the beach, where we were to pitch our outside. tents.

The next day began with a hunt for an AWOL The rain arrived just as we did, sending us all tent-bag, unfortunately our searching proved scuttling for cover, amidst cries of disgust as fruitless, only the peg-bag was salvaged. Who wet sand was tramped through our sleeping was ultimately responsible for this calamity was bags. Eventually we poked our heads out, to never determined. Never mind, we continued on find that shelter (in the form of a tent-fly) was our journey. We rounded the corner, our old waiting in a nearby grove. Gemma’s Palace was enemy The Hill, had come back for more. On an inviting place, if you knew the password! the way up we got some great views of Spirits After a pasta dinner, everyone was ready for

-49- dessert. An ultra-strong, mostly liquid chocolate avoid the final hill, was thwarted by the rising goo was soon dished up, but this was rather tide, to everyone’s great dismay. A quick walk tasty when actually attempted. A somewhat along the back of the sand dunes saw us back to open discussion followed, spurred by excess the cars, where the flush toilets proved to be the brain sugar and the thoughts of pizza. main drawcard. A nude swim was briefly Eventually all avenues of conversation were mooted, until it was pointed out that it was after exhausted, and we reluctantly made our way all mid-winter, and at this everyone got cold- back to the tents. feet. The decision was made to instead head back to that great metropolis of Whangarei, In the morning it was raining again, seeing this, where Pizza Hut was waiting for us. The perfect Mira was at last persuaded to join Katie in her end to the week. morning swim, the rest of us watching in some awe. Our attempts to round the headlands and

“your author realised his tent was still sitting on his dining room floor. Sarah was not impressed”

______

“Whatever goes up will keep going up, whatever keeps going up will continue to go up, and whatever goes down must eventually go up”

-50- The Geographical everyone else who was driving behind me, sorry Embarrassment in Ruahines Andy :P! After a wee bit of a bedtime story from Andy/Kat, we went to bed. (means wise women) The first bit of the first day involved walking up Note to self: Never make a woman angry…they Pourangaki River with a fair bit of stream roar.. bashing and bush bashing. It was a nice fine day. At some stage, we came across a mudslide September 2009 remnant. It was rather massive and really cool, Jeff stood in the stream accumulating 30cm of Author: Charis Wong thick mud! As we went upstream, stream bashing became slightly more hard-going with The offenders: Andy Baddeley, Kat Collier, lots of scrambling amongst big boulders and Jeff Ducrot, Christina Fullerton, Tina Peissker, tree trunks, or bush bashing to by-pass the Charis Wong stream. When we reached Kelly Knight’s Hut, we reckoned that we will not be able to make it It was mid-semester break! According to my up to the Rangiwahia hut through the range, so dictionary, "study break" means a break from we decided to stay at the Kelly Knight Hut for study...so few of us decided to do exactly what the night instead. It was only 3ish…so we it tells us to do...aka ditch our assignments decided to make our own fun by making a wet- /studies and go and do a decent tramp! From my boot-tree, a trunk-traverse1 and squeeze-box- trip email to the club, I wrote: through-the-ladder2. “In order to fit into the "decent" category, we are hoping to have an exhausting, body aching The second day was the most “exciting” day. experience & thinking what-did-i-get-myself- We woke up early and headed up to the ridge. into kind of tramp" (but of course, with joyful After quite a bit of climbing through the bush, souls and great company) :P…..” we reached the tops. We stopped and had quite Yes, we surely did. a few of Andy’s famous ANZAC cookies and continued. As we made our way through the A big HIGH appeared over the New Zealand ridge following the “very widely spaced” poles, sky on the weather forecast chart. Perfect, so it got foggier and foggier (aw! Where is the big we, the merry bunch started driving down to the “HIGH” from the forecast?! Ruahine, aka the Ruahines on a nice fine day. After a nice long 7 wise woman decided to swing her mood on us) and a half hours drive, we reached the Ruahines …we decided that we should turn back to drop in the dark ....and I kindly saved 6ish down to the bush via the short track which was possums/bunnies/hedgehogs ‘ lives by braking just next to the signpost/high point marked on thousands of times..which might have annoyed the map. The tussock and grass was very dense and hid the track from us. The tall grasses were up to my waist at times, along with many invisible holes hidden in the ground where we

1 Technically, it is the same as broom traverse, but with a tree trunk.

2 If you have gone caving with Rion or Anton or Miles before, there’s this really cool thing called “squeeze box”..where you have to squeeze and traverse from one “hole” to the other, but you have to keep your ankles through one hole while you have your shoulders through the other, otherwise you will be out of the game!

-51- kept falling into! At some stage, the visibility day before. After taking a few photos, we made had dropped down to 20m ish. We could not our way back to Kelly Knight hut and found see any of the spurs that branched off from the that the “very widely spaced” poles in the fog main ridge, nor could we navigate. After a wee were actually relatively closely spaced! Garh! bit of a walk following the “sign post” and Sadly, Tina had unhappy knees which made her “track”, we decided that we had gone the wrong descend backwards all the way down with the direction, so we stopped for a lunch break and support of two ice axes. turned back. We tried not to discourage ourselves by saying that was a “nice” detour to In the end, we made our way safely back to the our “nice” lunch spot. We were very cars. Despite the geographical embarrassment, disorientated by the fog. As we walked and we all had a great time in the trip, never been so walked, we managed to find the only recognisable movable 20 degrees tilted signpost that was meant to be next to the escape track. But right by the sign post where the arrow was pointing to, was a big rocky steep ugly looking drop, so where was the track? At this time, we didn’t want to waste any more time, it was getting cold, a wee bit wet and the visibility got worse, so we decided to turn back and walk the original way that we came up, the one with “very widely spaced poles”. And yet, we couldn’t find it, yes, we were lost. So, we decided to stay up on the ridge for the night in our emergency tent and wait till the fog cleared the following day to continue our way back. We lost in our lives before! Note to self: don’t be originally planned to stay in the huts all the too ambitious next time! way, so we had only carried a 3-man tent just in case and left the other in the car (ah, no!). We Postscript: after a wee bit of investigation, we found a relatively sheltered spot with weight found that the reason for the change of weather height grass, and started to pitch a tent. Normal was because of me, I failed to sacrifice the 6 tent pegs became useless with grass like this, so possums/hedgehogs/bunnies to our Ruahine we used our ice axes, which worked really well. weather goddess. Evidence to support this After the tent was pitched, I ended up with argument: Andy ran over a possum on his way slight hypothermia… and got very well taken to May Camp at K-gorge, we got awesomely care of with lots of hugs involved. Six of us beautiful weather for the entire weekend. So, squeezed into the 3-man tent, and had a very remember to run over all the possums whilst friendly cosy night with very comfy padded driving to your next tramp! grass beneath.3 At this point, we all agreed that we had reached the objective that I advertised in the club email (as shown above).

The next morning, the sky had cleared up and we found that the track was only 20m away from us!

Garh! We went back to the movable sign post and spotted the way that we wrongly went the

3 I believed that everyone was longing for the night to end and the sun to rise throughout the whole night.

-52- Bethells – Te Henga Day Walk We followed the track along and from here we started a steep climb up to a ridge where we got some amazing views but it was also incredibly 18 October 2009 windy so we didn’t stop for long. The tracked passed through some farmland at the top of the Author: Kylie Brewer ridge before descending back to the coast again. We eventually found a nice rocky outcrop Attendees: Kylie Brewer, Erik Tomsen, Alison where we climbed out to the end so we could Alvares, Sonia Moik, Arvin Wang, Galina have lunch with a view and a bit of a snooze Redkina, Erik Lalot before heading back. The walk back to the cars was much easier as it was nearly all down hill. The weather had cleared and the afternoon had turned into a fantastic sunny day. With plenty of time to spare we chilled out in the sun at the top of the ridge where it wasn’t quite so windy anymore.

On a slightly overcast morning, seven trampers hauled themselves out of bed to head to a rather blustery Bethells Beach. The weather in town began to clear but upon arrival at the beach car park, rain looked inevitable. The track started out meandering through a paddock before a short climb that offered us a spectacular view of a rather grey and dreary Bethells Beach. Continuing on, we arrived at O’Neills Bay where we explored some caves and Erik even went for a swim. On the beach we found the most unusual sea creatures, none of us knew what they were and each thing seemed to have this giant puffy thing which then had several of these creatures coming off it. We walked along the beach back to the cars. After ditching the rather wet and sandy boots we hopped into the cars and headed off to Swanson for a much deserved ice cream. A great end to a fun day's Following the track along, we were then tramping. rewarded with some more great views of O’Neills Bay complete with a few keen surfers.

-53- Trip to Ruapehu in a driveway in Mt Eden for a car trip down to -not the most memorable but fun none Mt Ruapehu. Unfortunately the car trip was not the less - as exciting as I expected it to be but soon after we were at the top of the Bruce packing our 10-12 December 2009 gear for a two hour walk up to the NZAC hut.

Author: Anton Gulley "This place is completely different in summer", said Jane, "there is nobody here". Attendees: Anton Gulley, Joe Nelson and Jane Dudley There was no light except the occasional security lights from one of the numerous Upon receiving an email from Miss Publications buildings which were in a deep slumber officer saying “Don't forget trip reports deadline awaiting the arrival of another busy ski season. - 15 December 2009”, I found myself in a spot Logic would suggest that during summer this of bother, I was going tramping with Jane on the walk to the hut was easier, unfortunately we 12th and the 13th so I would have no time to discovered a few hours later in the small hours write it up. I racked my brain for a solution and of the morning that this was not the case. then an idea came to me. I could write it in advance. All I knew about the trip was that we We decided to walk up the route to the ski field were going to Ruapehu on Friday night till and we were soon on our way. There was a four Sunday. We were driving in my mum’s car and wheel drive like road half way up and it made it there might be some other people coming too. easier to ascend despite the darkness. After an Oh, I had made a big batch of Tararua biscuits hour and a half we could pretty much see the too. hut on the other side of the valley and we knew we were not far off, that was until we saw the So here goes ….. At 4pm on Friday I rushed snow in the valley. In late spring/early summer home to find that Jane had done all the the warmer rock beneath the snow melts the shopping, picked up all the alpine gear, packed snow next to it, creating, in some cases, quite a my bags and even gone to the toilet for me. All I large air gap in between the snow and the rock. had to do was hop in the car and drive. I cruised Also the river was running beneath the snow in out of the driveway and observed that Jane had the valley and would have also carved out a done the car up so that it ran on the smell of an very large air gap beneath the snow. This oily rag which she was dangling in front of the basically meant that we could not cross the petrol tank. As we headed out towards the snow for fear of falling through it. We were left motorway Jane interrupted my thought process with two options, find a way through on rock or … “I thought they got rid of yellow buses?” she turn back. There were islands of rock all over asked. the place and we thought there might be a way through by bashing away the snow in between I was bemused but then I looked ahead and saw the rocks with our axes. We soon discovered it a fat man walking down the street in yellow, was like being in a maze, some of the rock was “Oh, that's just Rodney hide going for a walk, cream coloured and the snow was white and it but it’s an easy mistake to make” I replied. looked exactly the same under torch light until really close. Eventually we decided the best bet Unfortunately I did not get time to finish the was in the head of the valley where it was flatter article before I left so I decided to write it up and more likely to be free from snow. Upon a after. Here is what actually happened, you can closer inspection we could see this was the case judge for yourselves my powers of prediction. and a clear path could be seen across the head of the valley. As we crossed the river we discovered just how lucky we were. There was On Thursday (the plan changed to Thu the 10th) a large rock in the river where the water night, Joe Nelson, Jane Dudley and myself met squirted out over the top in such a way that it

-54- would erode any snow above it. We could see up when Jane screamed. She discovered the that the water then fell in to a huge cavern with mouse trap had caught a mouse. We packed up at least half a meter of air space. "That’s and headed down the ski field but we were reassuring" I thought to myself, "at least if you forced to rethink 15 mins later as the stream was fell through the snow and were washed now flooded and not crossable at the only point downstream a little bit you would still have it emerged from beneath the snow. We turned room to sit up". back and plodded down the ridge, stopping to rescue a “danger cliff” sign that had come to At the hut we discovered that it also gave rest a long way from any cliff. At the bottom, shelter to a few mice and we had to do a bit of a we thought about climbing Hauhungatahi but it tidying up and hang all our food up. was going to take too long so we decided to go make fun of the "downs walk". At the start of At 6am it was a beautiful morning. At 7.30 am the “downs walk”, there is a sign that says when I thought about getting up, it was pouring "downs walk 20min", as you look in the with rain and there was a strong wind. We direction it goes, you can see the end of the were still rather exhausted from the night before walk 100m away. The sign then tries to build up and we had enough motivation to pack up to suspense, asking you to guess how the “downs” leave but not quite enough to leave. We lay were formed and saying there is a sign with the about the hut not doing much, Joe discovered answer at the end. Eager to find out we plodded from the microwave instruction book that a down the track and sat on the seats that were microwave causes the water molecules to placed after 30m and 80m because we were "so vibrate at 2.45 million vibrations per second. tired". After 30 mins we reached the end, had We sat around discussing how accurate they lunch and drove home stopping for a refreshing were and thought about writing to complain that swim in Lake Taupo. they hadn’t taken heavy water into account. We played with ropes for a bit and at about 4pm we My original plan when writing up the trip before went outside. We found some great bouldering the trip was to have some sort of fight between outside the hut and did some abseiling at Delta Don Brash trying to sell the mountain to source corner. tax cuts, Rodney Hide trying to make it part of the 'Super City', Gerry Brownley trying to get a On Saturday morning we woke up at 5am to do sulphur mine at Ruapehu and of course Hone some climbing but the weather was crap so we Harawera swearing at everyone. went back to bed … 8ish seemed like a good time to get up but we were only properly woken

“Logic would suggest that during summer this walk to the hut was easier, unfortunately we discovered a few hours later in the small hours of the morning that this was not the case”

-55- SOUTH ISLAND The Great River Crossing Machine Irishman to attempt to steal the machine’s (GRCM) central processing unit but fortunately the machine has many auxiliary sensors and Rhino 27-29 December 2008 was quickly rescued. Once at river level, the machine could begin the Author: Rion Gulley task for which it was designed, the crossing of rivers. Quickly the machine had perfected a Attendee Units of the GRCM: Luke flawless process that optimized efficiency in Kristensen and Rion Gulley the crossing of rivers.

The Great River Crossing Machine is a The sensors would quickly assess when and machine of much wonder and awe, surpassing where to cross, the bionic appendages would every technological advancement by man kind. lock in to place, firmly connecting the two units To really understand this magnificent together, with the larger unit upstream. The construction, one needs to investigate the spare appendage would quickly identify the circumstances surrounding its development and destination on the opposite side of the swirling construction, near the wane of the 2008 cascade. The machine would then enter the calendar year. torrent with the up current support fractionally ahead of the others. Swiftly the GRCM would Ironically the Great River Crossing Machine plough through the deluge and once on dry land was developed out of the desire to get high, the units would disband leaving no trace that it namely 2885m high. It was designed to gain had ever existed, until the next river crossing access to the mythical mountain, named after arose. the young chief Tapuae-O-Uenuku of the Arai Te Uru canoe and these days it is simply known Hodder was not to be so easily dominated by by the linguistically challenged, as Tapi. modern technology so he sent his assassins to try and find a flaw in this, the perfect machine. The approach to this peak is guarded by the When dive bombed by falcons the GRCM magnanimous and majestic enchanter… responded by sprouting trees on its crown, Hodder. Don’t be fooled by his inconspicuous swarms of bees enabled the GRCM to name, like Tim, he has great powers the most successfully test its stealth mode and the famed of his feats being the creation of the perpetual presence of goats threatening to mighty Hodder river. Carving through a gorge, knock the GRCM over were treated to a swift the sorcerer makes all travellers in his realm bombardment using its artillery function. cross the snow feed torrent anywhere from 40 to 120 times, if they wish to get to the base of And that is the tale of the creation of the Tapi. GRCM, the machine that completed a return voyage that boasted at least 140 river crossing On hearing of the approach of the infamous over three days. For those that wish to emulate GRCM, the conjurer was scared, and sent out the feats described in this tale, beware the his spies to waylay the automation. The number of crossings could escalate as the river flowers grew rapidly and hid the cairn which level changes, due to snow melt rainfall or by marked the route down the river. The GRCM the design of the magician, Hodder …. and the was not to be deterred and made its own route ascent of the mountain, you ask, well that’s bashing through scrub and scrambling down another story. waterfalls to reach the warlock’s watercourse. The thaumaturge even coerced the wild

-56- 7 days in 7 words; Day 4 Bard 1. Two Passes, Two Saddles Oxford Dictionary Definition: one of an ancient Celtic order of poets and a Col Our Definition: 1.To the sunset with the sunrise 9-15 January 2009 Fohn's lakes idle before the eyes. The plateau tantalizing to the north but tantalus taunts us to Author: Luke Kristensen where we go forth. The fiery beast guards the way to the cow and the end of the day. Accomplished by: Peter Luk, Rion Gulley, Luke Kristensen Day 5 Perturb Oxford Dictionary Definition: 1.to disturb the While I am aware that the title is in fact seven composure of 2.trouble 3.to throw into words, it is also the following seven words that disorder can comprehensively depict the events that occurred when three adventurous souls Our Definition: 1.to fail in meteorology ventured into the heart of Mt Aspiring National foretelling 2.to fret about forthcoming possible Park to complete the five passes. predicaments

What follows is a dictionary definition of each Day 6 Flat word and our definition which portray each Oxford Dictionary Definition: 1.horizontal day. level 2.deflated 3.unexciting

Day 1 Fresh Our Definition: 1.a piss easy day shortened by Oxford Dictionary Definition: 1.bright or clear accurate weather predictions 2.low energy 2.invigorating 3.not tired 4.not worn or faded levels. 5.having a healthy or ruddy appearance 6.newly or just arrived Day 7 Cigar Oxford Dictionary Definition: 1.a cylindrical Our Definition: 1.sparkling foliage following roll of cured tobacco leaves for smoking the recent departure of precipitation 2.idle muscles in anticipation. Our Definition: 1.an aura of wealth, achievement and fulfilment 2.an addictive Day 2 Safari habit Oxford Dictionary Definition: 1.an overland journey or hunting expedition 2.the people, animals that go on the expedition.

Our Definition: 1.a long adventurous and stunningly beautiful journey 2.helpful jetboat operators.

Day 3 Adolf Oxford Dictionary Definition: (Pronoun)

Our Definition: 1. (humorous synonym) An appreciation one has after sleeping in a tent on a still clear night with no fly.

-57- Darran's Report across some unconsolidated snow and I move right up a thinner section. A couple of meters later and we arrive at the top – ready to Author: Miles Mason continue on up to Gertrude Saddle.

Attendees: Ollie Clifton, Miles Mason and The next two waterfalls pass uneventfully and friends we soon arrive at the saddle proper. At this point, a huge cirque opens up beneath and it’s I recognised him by his relaxed Scottish possible to catch a glimpse of Milford Sound in brogue. ‘You must be Alastair’ I correctly the distance. While eating lunch, we realise that surmise, thereby meeting the first of the motley Barrier Knob is just a short snow plod away. group of climbers I will be spending the next Seeing how early in the day it is, we dump our week with in Homer Hut. technical gear and start on up the broad ridge. After a couple of hours of steep wallowing and The past two days had passed as such: a a bit of cramp from the old legs we arrive on hungover plane flight from Auckland to the summit. What a view! After some standard Queenstown, much wandering around the loitering on the summit, we plod back down in outdoor stores of Queenstown, a stay in a time for dinner. disgusting backpackers and an early bus ride along with a load of tourists bound for the The next day there are bigger objectives lined wonders of Milford Sound. Gertrude Valley is up – an ascent of the imposing Mt. Talbot. the perfect antidote to hectic life in the city – From the hut, all you can see of it is the vast huge, peaceful, beautiful and intimidating in a Psychopath wall, looming up out of the valley comforting manner (I don’t know how this floor. But there is an easier route up it, accessed works – sometimes it just feels good having from Black Lake. The majority of it is a snow mountains looming over you). plod, with some steeper steps to keep things interesting. We start up the staircase, lovingly That night, with a head full of new names and created by Howie and Steph (thanks guys!) a the effects of cheap cask wine – plans are few days prior. The first steep section is a 45° formulated for the following day. Reports of a ice gully – we awkwardly don our crampons on series of low-angled frozen waterfalls at the the high-angle snow slope below and dagger up head of the valley (ironically named The 100m, the wind blowing spindrift down on us, Gertrude Ice Park) are enticing and when Ollie our hands plunging into the freezing snow. At Clifton encourages me to join him there in the the top I stop to let my hands endure the morning, how can I refuse? warming torture, that is the hot aches. We then continue further up – ascending a low-angle We wake at a civilised hour and trot on up the snowy ridge, heading for a narrow, sheer- valley – our boots crunching in the well worn looking couloir which leads the way to the trench through the blanketing snow. An easy summit. hour or so and we arrive at the bottom of the first waterfall. It gently rises, bulging above us. Reaching the neck of the couloir, we are faced We take our tools off our packs and my with a 10m step of 80° ice and we eat our lunch apprehension grows as I approach the ice. I while we pull out the rope and rack. I set about have extremely limited ice-climbing experience making an ‘anchor’, the soft snow doesn’t seem – having only top-roped one 15m route - but I as though it would hold much force in the event feel I have the ability to climb this waterfall. of a fall. Once set up, I notify ‘On Belay!’ Ollie We start on up and I feel better with every responds with a witty ‘Wallowing!’, he then swing of the pick, although the ice isn’t the best continues up to the base of the ice. He places an quality, it’s fairly low angled and I feel secure. I ice screw and starts on up the step. Another follow Ollie on up past halfway and we arrive piece of protection near the top and the at a slightly trickier section. Ollie traverses left difficulties are over. I wait while he sets up

-58- some form of ‘anchor’ and then follow up. descent’. A wonderfully fast and safe bum slide Once I reach the base, I feel happy that I am takes us 200m closer to Gertrude Saddle and following and not leading, especially with my more of the well-practised wallowing brings us lack of ice-climbing experience. But I easily the rest of the way. On our way back down to second the pitch and lead on past Ollie, the hut I remark ‘I don’t care where we go ensconced in his cosy bucket seat. After more tomorrow, as long as it’s not Gertrude again’. soft snow wallowing, I reach a short mixed step and gently teeter my way up, finding pick That night after several rounds of negotiation, placements in between the rock. I manage to we gain ourselves a place on the in condition get an ice screw in, then another and before I ice climb ‘Gomer’ III 3. There have been 2 know it, I’ve balanced my way onto the hard teams on this climb every day of the meet – it’s snow slope which leads to the summit ridge. one of the few climbs around with enough ice Much to my displeasure, I hear the call from on it and so it’s been getting the brunt of the below ‘5 metres!’ Dam! At this point I find traffic. A four pitch climb, it takes a direct line myself wishing I had a snowstake with me. I next to a huge overhanging wall and generally attempt to hammer the shaft of one of my tools quality ice (although water was still running into the slope but it won’t go, the snow is too underneath). We’ve been eyeing it up since the firm. So I wind an ice screw in and equalise it start of the meet so it’s high time we actually with the pick of one of my tools, along with a had a go at the thing. couple of steps chopped for my feet; it’ll have to do. With a call of ‘On Belay... Kinda!’ Ollie We arrive at the base of the climb after a quick starts his way up. On his way past he walk up SH94 from Homer Hut – I get my first congratulates me on my pitch and the quality of look at Homer Tunnel as we turn off the road my belay (which I find confusing as the anchor onto the track to McPherson Cirque and pick seems like it wouldn’t be able to hold a falling our way through the snow-covered talus field. 2 year old). After not too much further ado, we There is a team (Terra and Ben from Vic Uni) reach the corniced summit ridge. already on pitch one when we arrive and while they pick their way up, we get ourselves From here it’s a mere 50m to the summit proper organised for the day ahead. We decide to take – which by now is encased in clag. Not just one bag so that the leader can have the lingering on, we continue over the summit and privilege of climbing unrestricted. After some on down the ridge, piled with loose powder sitting around chatting, pitch 1 is free and we snow. I find the ridge traverse rather scary – it’s solo up a short way to a suitable belay possie. exposed and the features are hidden by liberal Ollie then leads off up pitch 1, climbing with snow drifts. More than once we slowly ease confidence and ease, gaining good purchase ourselves down steeper sections, getting down with his antiquated but excellent bamboo- on our bums for stability, moving just one limb handled Chouinard axe. The short vertical step at a time for security. There are some hairy disposed of, a laid back ramp of ice leads up to moments where snow falls away to reveal a the belay at the top. The belay station is under man-eating abyss but for the most part it’s an overhang and Ollie squeezes past Terra enjoyable ridge travel, wending our way around (belaying Ben who’s leading pitch 2) to set up pillars and across exposed traverses. We the anchor. Once this is done, I dismantle the presently come to a snow gulley, leading off anchor I am attached to and begin seconding down to the Gertrude side of the ridge. This is the route, winding out ice screws as I meet exactly what we have been looking for as a them. The vertical section requires a tricky high descent route and we easily romp down to the step to overcome it but it’s easy to find sunshine and easy terrain which await at the purchase on the featured ice. I discover that bottom. An afternoon tea break and a chance to there are a multitude of icicles and pools along relax after all the concentration, then we the right hand side of the ramp which are great continue down, this time in a carefree manner – for hooking on and saving energy. often cheekily referred to as a ‘controlled

-59- I clip into the belay and hand the rack over to ice surface and arrived at the double abalakov Ollie who then traverses out to the right and thread, which marked the top of the route. speedily leads pitch 2, which turns out to be straightforward. As he climbs, I am distracted The good thing about doing routes after other by the beauty of the bulge of ice I am attached people is that they leave helpful things behind – to, about a foot thick, it is perfectly clear such as nice double abalakovs for abseiling off, through to the rock beneath – I can even see the or staircases of nicely compacted snow to walk tips of the 22cm screws which make up the up. After the series of abseils, we arrive at the belay! Peering out to see how Ollie’s bottom of the route just as the light is fading progressing, a chunk of ice whistles past my and enjoy the walk back down to Homer Hut, head, I quickly retract back under the overhang. with an amazing show of stars above us to light Soon enough, I follow up the ramp, the angle of the way. ice gradually decreasing until I dagger onto a small snowfield halfway up the climb. We eat a By this stage, after 3 days of going hard, we’re leisurely lunch and admire the view, Terra is starting to feel a bit lazy. Our plan for Friday is leading pitch 3 above and it doesn’t look as to climb Mt. McPherson via Talbot’s ladder and hard as the previous sections so we decide that we start the day with every intention of doing I’ll lead this one. Once Ben is almost at the so. But once we arrive at Homer saddle, the sun belay, I start leading up, feeling good – my first is already disappearing behind McPherson and water ice lead! Screws go in without too much we both feel cold in the wind which is difficulty and I feel happy standing on my front funnelled over the saddle by the surrounding points for the climb. There are some really cool mountains. So we go back down, arriving at the hooks and bridges which I can stand on with hut at 3pm for cup after cup of tea with the middle of my foot to relieve the pump. biscuits. We drive down to the river to collect Shortly, after fiddling around trying to find water, enjoying the magnificent scenery - cast some suitable ice for a belay, I start seconding into sharp relief by the setting sun. Hilarity Ollie up – first lead completed! The last pitch ensues as we attempt to keep all the water passes by, despite some soft snow covering the inside the containers on the drive back.

“More than once we slowly ease ourselves down steeper sections, getting down on our bums for stability, moving just one limb at a time for security. There are some hairy moments where snow falls away to reveal a man-eating abyss but for the most part it’s enjoyable ridge travel, wending our way around pillars and across exposed traverses”

-60- The Takitimu’s The following morning wouldn’t quite freeze the balls off a brass monkey, but it was pretty cold, however, it WAS CLEAR. We clambered Author: Anton Gulley up scree on to our ridge and gazed out over the world. Only the world gazed back with a touch Attendees: Rion Gulley and Anton Gulley

Where? You ask, “where is the Takitimu's”?

Rion and I found ourselves on a small gravel road half an hour south east of Te Anau. We were stuck behind a slow moving herd of sheep (they are all slow) being re-located by a local farmer and we were staring up at a great wispy ball of cloud that engulfed the entire mountain range sparing only a few low down spurs that jutted out beneath the cloud. This image epitomizes our thoughts and knowledge of the of menace. Although we could not see the true trip we intended; we were planning on extent of the problem it was apparent that the tramping on a mountain range that only the way forward was going to be barred by steep locals knew about, the staff at the Te Anau screed slopes, cliffs and rocky outcrops. “It DoC centre knew next to nothing, information was so much easier navigating when we in pamphlets at the DoC centre was next to couldn’t see anything”, I thought to myself. nothing and we had a planned off-trail route The day proved to be an epic described by dead that even the mighty 'Moirs' guide, the bible of ends, in depth navigational discussions to avoid southern off-trail tramping, didn’t consider dead ends and intense steep climbing as a result talking about. of these discussions. After almost 12 hours on the go we were picked up on a farm road by our The start of the journey was up a well eldest brother and driven back to Te Anau for a maintained track that was part of Te Araroa delicious steak cooked by our parents. Thanks New Zealand. Upon reaching the saddle we family. left the track and bush bashed, sidled and

Information/glossary climbed our way up above the tree line. The Te Anau is a town in the south west of the South Island. A spur is a ridge that climbs up on to another ridge or peak from remainder of the day was spent climbing and a lower altitude. navigating our way through a network of screed Te Araroa New Zealand is a walking track opened in 2007 ridges and the occasional bluff before choosing spanning the length of the country. A cirque is an amphitheatre at the top a valley where snow and to camp in a cirque around some tarns just ice would have once congregated to form a glacier. down from the ridge line. The day was a mild Scree is unconsolidated rock often found in alpine environments. white out and we could often see no more than A tarn is a small lake in a cirque formed by glaciers, they are often formed by rocks being driven in to the ground then 50 meters. Incidentally it did clear for a minute uprooted or from moraine (glacial sediment) forming a dam. or two when we were eating scroggin at the top Scroggin is a mixture of dried fruit, nuts chocolate and other goodies used as a snack food. It is actually an acronym but I of Clear Peak. forget its meaning.

-61- Stewart Island - 13 days of Day 4- Cruised to Long Harry hut, by now we Mud, Kiwi and Craig were walking with Fraser and Jason, two guys who were doing the Northern circuits by themselves - DOC workers camping out at this January 2009 hut with all their fresh food and BEER! One of them shoots a deer and they were dining on Author: Jenny Waite paua most nights, not very fair when we would be enjoying our tuna meals for the whole trip. Attendees: Craig Smith, Birgit and Jenny Craig saw first kiwi in the morning (don’t know Waite what he was doing up so early, I like my sleep). Afternoon was spent in hut to avoid sand flies Craig, Birgit and I headed over to Oban for the but all good, cause this hut was right up on the longest trip we had ever done. We boarded the ridge with the best views of the beach below. ferry with around 70kg of gear between us, included in Craig’s 30kg was a thick book, hammock and cheesecake. The next day we set

Day 5 – Head to East Ruggedy (otherwise off along the roads of Oban to the start of the known as the ritz) with noticeably lighter pack. track, no hitching a lift for us (unfortunately Found the quick sand near the hut, awesome because no cars went past us) but we did meet a fun. Not brave enough for swim. First rain that man trying to sell us a hammock tent, but he night. Joined by crazy Czech guy who had was easily convinced that we didn’t have room. skipped a hut, based on this and past Arrived at Port William for our lunch where we experience, have now decided all Czech men were entertained (for a bit too long) by a male are crazy. By now Craig has seen many kiwi, seal trying to woo a female on the beach. Many while he’s cruising out the front; I don’t think photos were taken and techniques observed the rest of us have seen any. Craig disappears (notes taken will be published in a separate for a while ahead of us and we generally come volume entitled smooth moves of the seal, for across him on the track in his hammock reading those keen, see Craig for details). Slogged his book - dam his fitness. around to Bungaree Hut, here Craig tried out his hammock to the amusement of the large Day 6- Long day to Hellfire pass, although am crazy Dutch Whanau. finally feeling fit now and beginning to get pack weight done to sane level. Awesome Day 2- another slog round to Xmas Village hut. beach walking, although weather not the best, it Very refreshing swim and drying in the sun still hadn’t rained yet. Hut almost out of water until the sand flies decided I was dry enough to which is disappointing as everyone is covered bite. in mud (except Craig who no matter how heavy his pack, can walk on top of mud). Day 3- Headed round to Yankee hut with lunch Unfortunately beach is 220m straight down a at Lucky Beach, but no seals were around so no sand dune, Birgit and Jason head down (which one was getting lucky today. Only Birgit brave is the fun bit) and eventually get back after a 30 enough to swim today. minute climb. BY now we can’t stop talking

-62- about our cheesecake, much to the annoyance we hit the end. Struggled over head land at end, of the rest of the group in the hut, but the too cold and have no energy. Fall in swamp at Scottish pair had their whisky to cheer them up. the top, why is there a swamp at the top of the hill? Craig’s gone ahead by this stage, so Day 7– Cheesecake day! Craig got brilliant luckily he wasn’t there to see me fall in swamp. video of kiwi on track today. Steep wet descent, very slippery all the way down to Doughboy bay. Hatred of Craig for being so fast disappears when arrive to warm hut with hot water waiting for me.

Quick climb over the head land followed by a long walk that just never ends on Mason Bay. Great swim in the surf; followed by freezing walk back to hut just in time for rain to start but nice ranger had moved our gear out of rain. Very cool ranger takes us up to the dunes to see Day 9- rest day! Doughboy awesome, even the sunset, and then shows us one of the rarest prettier than Mason Bay. Spend day collecting plants in the country. Walks to homestead with fire wood from beach and picking up larger items of rubbish. Both Doughboy and Masons collect large amounts of fishing gear that washes up, including tolley bins, buoys and rope.

Day 10- First thing in the morning 400m climb, easy as pie. So fit now but still Craig beats me to the top. Again swampy at the top of the hill but makes for quite nice walking. Generally careful of where putting feet though. Walk through swamp just before hut and despite my improved fitness Craig still beats me into hut us (now the DOC quarters) and gives us the by an hour (grrrr). I’m getting very low on tour. Have a look around old wool shed, crazy lunch and snack food now, so its lunch of Czech and Birgit pretending to be sheep, I think porridge for me. the mud’s finally got to them. Finally had cheesecake, mmm goodness, shared with rest of Day 11- Spend morning waiting for weather to group as 3 people cannot eat a cheesecake by clear and then head up Mt Rakeuhua, so worth themselves (that’s not a challenge to anyone it. Fantastic view of the whole island and little reading this). dotterals running round blending in very well with the mossy rocks. Head back down and Day 8- Sad goodbyes to Birgit who’s got to then round to Fred’s Camp. Saw first good view head back to the south island to do another of a kiwi today that wouldn’t get off track, silly tramp with cooler people (tear) and the rest of bird. Craig has beaten me to the hut by over an the northern crew. Horrible walk down Mason hour this time, but once again has outdone Bay, windy and rainy and very cold by the time

-63- yimself with not only hot water but also as it was waist deep in water and in the past it muscles that he collected off the wharf. Big has flooded over the roof of the hut. One story feed. I’ve heard is trampers being stuck in the hut when this happened and having to escape out the roof and wait to be rescued from here.

Day 13- Out of the hut by 5:30am, both of us are too tight to pay for a water taxi back or for accommodation in Oban for the night, so decide to walk the last 2 days in one and be on the 3pm ferry. Mmmmm cold porridge from peanut butter jar for a quick lunch. Good time to the great walks hut, then easy stroll on board walks round to Oban. Knackered by the time we hit Oban though, meet one of the people Day 12- Short walk to Freshwater hut, most from Freshwater hut here who had taken the enjoyable day so far. Some waist deep bits of water ferry back and didn’t have to pay as had water in the swamp but waters really warm and hurt knee, should have said that to the taxi washing off 12 days of mud. Meet the couple operator. Make it onto the next ferry for a that had stayed with us at Doughboy Bay splashy ride back, I quite like being on boats, heading to Fred’s camp to pick up kayaks. although got the feeling Craig’s not so keen on Another lunch of porridge at the hut. But them. finally the sun comes out, so spend afternoon lying in sun as the sand flies have buggered off. Awesome trip, awesome company. If you’re River next to hut is very full, black and flowing thinking of heading there, do it. Or if you just fast so no swimming for us. When this river want someone to join you on a long trip – take floods it goes very quickly, when we first Craig he’s possibly the least annoying person in arrived on the island the track here was closed the world. Thanks Craig for putting up with me for 13 days.

“Hut almost out of water which is disappointing as everyone is covered in mud (except Craig, who no matter how heavy his pack, can walk on top of mud)”

-64- Abel Tasman Coastal Track 28th January and we were up early and running around organizing the last of our gear before the shuttle picked us up to take us to the start of 28–31 January 2009 the track at Marahau. An hour or so later we arrived at the start of the track only to realise Author: Kylie Brewer that Scott and I had left the paper work for our hut passes back at the hostel, oops! After a Attendees: Kylie Brewer, Jeff Small, Andrew quick call to DOC it was all sorted, a quick Draper, Hazel Albertyn, Scott Hutchings, Ben group photo and we set off for a few days of Bauer, Alison Alvares. adventure! The first part of the track was fairly easy as we were high above the beach with the track cut into the cliff offering us some spectacular views of the beaches below. We stopped for lunch on the point which gave us our first views of some of the offshore islands, and it was here we made our discovery of Andrew’s love of spam. Ben and Andrew decided that a swim was in order and jumped off the point. We set off again with the track continuing to wind its way above the coast, offering more views of the water below. Mid afternoon we arrived at another point this one offering views of the island, that Andrew named “Ruatiti” as it looked like two breasts, we later learned it was called Adele Island. From here it was a relatively short but steep downhill to Anchorage Hut. We arrived at the hut and were greeted by several other trampers. After claiming beds we set off to explore. Jeff, Alison and Andrew were in the campground, a two minute walk from the hut and a large sheltered flat area – not a bad spot! While the others went for a walk along the beach I sat and chilled out in the late afternoon sun watching the world go by. A while later the others On 27th January seven excited trampers returned and we headed back to the hut to cook descended on Nelson from all corners of New dinner. The huts in Abel Tasman are quite large Zealand. After meeting up at the Paradiso to cater for the high volumes of trampers and hostel, it was off to the supermarket to buy food tourists which walk the track (or parts of the for the tramp returning to the hostel for our first track) every summer along with a few group dinner a leisurely evening, of packing kayakers. What impressed us most about the and relaxing. huts is that they have filtered water – no need to boil or treat! After dinner we sat outside, along with all the sand flies and it was here where Andrew and Jeff ran into their backpacker friend Armand who are been travelling around part of the South Island with them. We chatted for a while before heading off to bed.

-65- question would be would I/we have enough money between us for me to catch it? So after consultation amongst the group, a pooling of money, Alison and I decided to catch the water taxi. Alison also had joint problems. So the others offloaded some of their gear that they didn’t need for the afternoon, under the false impression that we’d be getting off the boat not far from the hut – wrong! We said goodbye to the others and headed down the beach to meet 29th January and we were up early packing our the water taxi. The water taxi was quite simply stuff and decided to have breakfast along the a giant speed boat and rather fun. It was quite track so that we could set off for the tidal neat to get a view from a kayaker’s perspective crossing across the inlet to Torrent Bay. i.e. from the water. Along the way we saw a Unfortunately we missed the signpost for the few seabirds, a school of fish, George the track where we were meant to cross the inlet dolphin and the driver took us right up to and ended up walking back up the steep track Tonga Island to view the seals. That was pretty leading to Anchorage where we’d come down cool! It also gave us bragging rights later on. the previous day and thus ended up adding another hour to our walk and going around the We were dropped off at Awaroa Bay, a bay long way eventually reaching Torrent Bay mid with a long golden sandy spit beach which morning, by which time the day was starting to apart from a couple of kayakers was relatively get rather warm. After walking for over an hour deserted. We gathered our possessions together and having the realisation we’d gone the wrong which had been dumped on the beach and set way we decided to stop for breakfast, out came off. We got slightly lost as the track set off for the cereal and the tea and we sat and pondered Awaroa Lodge and we thought we were going where we went wrong… oh well. We set off the wrong way, but in the end decided to follow again and the day started to get warmer. We our noses and upon arriving at the lodges’ café, took a side track up to Cleopatra’s pool which we knew we must be on the right track. Sadly looked very inviting but was incredibly cold. I we didn’t stop for afternoon refreshments and wasn’t brave enough to venture in and only got instead decided to keep plodding on to the hut. my feet wet, but the boys and Alison did and I think the expectation was we were meant to even found a natural water slide! start dinner… From the beach to the hut, it took us about an hour as we passed the lodges’ We continued on, arriving at Torrent Bay mid airfield, walked along the beach before coming morning by which time it was starting to get around the corner to see the hut and from there rather hot. Up until now the track had been it was just a short stroll across the sand up the mostly inland but every now and again we’d inlet. Arriving at the hut was the best feeling! catch glimpses of some of the bays below. We We claimed our beds and then set about joining arrived at Bark Bay and decided to make this the queue for the outdoor shower – the great our lunch stop. By the time I arrived at Bark thing about the huts on the Abel Tasman is that Bay, my ankles were killing me. A result of they all have cold fresh water showers – very wearing jandals so that I wouldn’t get wet boots refreshing after a hard days tramping! After doing the tidal crossing, then after missing the getting ourselves cleaned up we then decided it turn off having to walk up a steep hill with a was time to relax and chat to our fellow reasonably heavy pack – I won’t be doing that trampers. Not long after the other members of again! I was in a bit of pain and wasn’t keen on our group arrived. They’d stopped off for a pint the afternoons walking which involved a steep at the lodge before continuing on but they climb up the saddle. I’d already spoken to a deserved it. Alison and I started on dinner couple of day walkers I’d passed and knew that while the others cleaned up. The unfortunate there were some water taxis due. The big thing about Awaroa Hut was the sand flies and

-66- much bug dope was needed (Bushman’s Deet Waiharakeke Bay and followed shortly after by insect repellant). It was at this hut that we met Goat Bay. The beaches were amazing and it the three girls from Wellington, one of whom was very tempting to down packs and spend the was born in a tent it seemed, as she liked day relaxing. Further along the track we leaving the main door open, not very helpful in reached Skinner Point which offered us some trying to deter sand flies from us. We ate our spectacular views of Totaranui Beach and the much deserved dinner and then spent the clear waters below. Further along the track we evening relaxing and sitting outside watching caught up with Armand our Belgian friend the stars, before heading off to bed where we again. Somehow our group managed to split were later to discover that our room mate was into two and Scott, Hazel, Ben, Armand and I the most awful snorer. decided on stopping for an early lunch and some chill out time on Totaranui Beach. We 30th January dawned with many of our group spent an enjoyable hour or so relaxing in the waking up grumpy at being kept awake for sun with Ben and Scott going swimming. some of the night by the dude with the awful Eventually we decided to keep going as the snoring. This prompted me to say to him “Dude others hadn’t turned up and we figured we’d catch up with them at some point if not at the hut. We set off through the camp ground before re-joining the track again. The track headed uphill and inland before dropping down and we arrived at Anapai Bay where stopping in the shade for a break we met up with the other half of our group again. Setting off again, the track followed the beach and the coast around, before climbing up the cliff which offered more spectacular views of gorgeous beaches. We dropped back down to the beach again this time to Mutton Cove where we found a shady spot you snore – badly!” Well they say the truth under the tree and took time out as it was hurts and I don’t think he was too impressed Friday afternoon after all and what a better way with me telling him but somebody had to. We to spend it! Our group split up again and some packed up our gear and set off early across the continued on to Separation Point to check out Awaroa inlet. Several of our group, myself the seal colony while the rest of us continued included, kept our boots on to avoid injuries on to Whariwharangi Bay and the opportunity for a swim. From Mutton Cove it was approximately an hour’s walk to the hut, heading inland with a small climb before an 'easyish' descent down to the hut, however my feet were hurting and it was stinking hot - I was hanging out to get the hut and hoping it would be just around the next corner. Along the way the ranger of the hut passed me and he shattered my dreams by telling me I still had a little further to go – dam! I arrived at the hut after from the shells while other members of our lagging behind the group due to my sore feet group preferred dry boots. Eventually we made and man was I glad to arrive at the hut. The hut it across to the other side of the inlet where we was very cute, although quaint may have been a found a shady spot and ate our breakfast before better word, as it was the original homestead setting off again. We spent the next hour or so and even had a second floor and photos of the walking inland through the bush before arriving families that once lived there. The heat was at the beautiful golden sandy beaches of getting a bit much so Jeff and I headed off to

-67- the beach for a swim; it was a little cold but eating them till he said stop to lighten the load. very refreshing! Soon after, the others returned In the end around 40 apricots were consumed. from Separation Point and told us they After packing everything up we set off for the managed to see some seals. last leg of the tramp – a short day with only 2 hours to Wainui where we’d be picked up by Once the swims and cold showers were out of the shuttle. Upon leaving the hut it was an easy the way, we set about cooking our last tramp climb up to the saddle which offered some dinner. Yay tomorrow would mean real food spectacular views back to Whariwharangi Bay and a hot shower! As with all of the dinners on and down to Wainui. We stopped for morning the tramp it was an entertaining occasion and tea before an easy descent down to the car park meant some interesting conversation topics – where we arrived in plenty of time to have a tonight’s was no different and produced a rather rest before the shuttle arrived. Alison and I heated debate on whether to honeymoon or not were the last ones to arrive at the carpark after a to honeymoon. It turns out certain members of leisurely walk down taking photos and having a our group were rather anti honeymoons. Who good old chat. Upon arriving at the carpark I would have thought? Our hut companions for noticed one of our group members was missing the night were the 3 girls from Wellington and stayed that way for a while as I soon learnt, again, an annoying Canadian and a couple of was in the toilet suffering from what we called others who we never really saw. We were lucky “the apricot effect”. He eventually returned enough to get a room that the whole seven of us saying that if it hadn’t been for the apricots he could fit into, so we retired there for an early would have thought he had giardia, as while night. Andrew having managed to escape the cooking a couple of nights earlier, someone hut wardens checking tickets every night drew accidentally used the non filtered water. The the short straw for the short 5ft top bunk bed shuttle arrived and we had our ‘we made it’ which he wasn’t too happy about but sometimes group photo. We jumped in the shuttle and set you can’t be picky. off back to the hostel in Nelson. We were pleased to have finished walking as by lunchtime it was a 30 degree day and therefore rather hot. While an uneventful journey we did have to stop along the way for the poor soul suffering from the apricot effect – he won’t be eating that many again! We arrived back at the hostel and it was off to the showers before we all marched down to the Hell’s pizza’s that we’d ordered for lunch. It was well deserved! We spent the afternoon lounging around in the heat and then headed out to town for a Thai dinner and celebration drinks, a fitting end to a The 31st of January dawned and it meant the fantastic tramp! last day of the tramp. We got up and had our final breakfast. It was at the end of breakfast that Ben produced his almost full bag of dried apricots and offered them to everyone. P.s It was on this tramp that we coined a new Everyone bar one member of our group politely phrase – ‘social bread’ a term used to describe declined the offer and Ben told him to just keep what would otherwise be called group bread.

-68- Travers-Sabine

1–7 February 2009

Author: Jeremy Chirnside (leader)

Members: Craig Smith, Rebecca Caldwell, Kat Collier, Tom Goodman, Jenny Waite, Duncan Hume.

A warm morning and Craig greeted the four of us who had flown down to Nelson Airport. The Photo 1: Mt Travers from John Tait Hut first task was shopping. At Pak’N Save Richmond, with three shopping trolleys, Returning to collect our packs we continued up questions started to be asked about how all this the main Travers Valley, crossing avalanche was ever going to fit into our packs; it turned paths including an impressive one where the out we had enough food to feed all of us for an flattened trees were all facing uphill, suggesting extra four days. However, this was not the end. that the avalanche had come down the other Another three supermarkets would be visited side, crossed the valley and gone uphill. until Craig found the right tuna (it was worth Arriving at Upper Travers Hut we had our first it). On our arrival at St Arnaud, Jenny was meeting with ‘Free Willy’, a foreign tourist who waiting for us and Duncan soon joined us from spoke very little English, but his most Christchurch. After a quick swim in Lake important attribute was an enjoyment of nudity. Rotoiti, we headed up for dinner at St Arnaud’s Unfortunately for Rebecca two things only restaurant. The conversation could at best conspired against her; Firstly she had not be described as open and detailed and the reached the hut yet, and secondly the pool ‘Free owner of the restaurant visited our table a Willy’ chose to have a swim in was right by the number of times to ‘see how things were track a good 200m from the hut. The rest of us going’. sat on the deck in anticipation of the reaction. Note from editor: I didn't say anything, but The next morning we headed down Lake moved on very very quickly! Rotoiti to the beginning of our track. Tom was getting his last texts through to Sarah and became distraught when we went out of range before he had been able to say goodbye; stirring comments from your author didn’t help the situation. The first day up the Travers Valley was not to demanding, and alternated between stretches of open grasslands and beech forest. A very quick refreshing swim was enjoyed at John Tait Hut.

After about fifteen minutes on day two we left our packs for a three hour side trip up the Photo 2: Kat surveying the Cupola Valley Cupola Basin. This basin included the Cupola Stream flowing through a spectacular series of The third day dawned clear giving an waterfalls embedded in a chasm, then after a impressive sunrise on the surrounding steep climb the valley opened up to impressive mountains. The climb up to Travers Saddle mountain views. (1787m), the highest point on our trip, was relatively easygoing and on crossing the saddle

-69- the view opened up to the western side of the park, including Mt Franklin (2340m) the highest peak in the park. From there it was a knee crunching (~800m) descent into the East Sabine valley. Upon reaching the hut we were greeted by the resident sandflies at West Sabine Hut, who as always were pleased to see some AUTC blood.

After three fine days we awoke to the sound of rain on the roof on the fourth day. We took a day trip up to Blue Lake through some impressive moss covered beech forest. Photo 4 Our group at Sabine Hut Returning to the hut we met a group of four beginning a crossing of the Waiau Pass who The remainder of this report is written by had been members of AUTC in the 1960’s. Jenny Waite: The evening’s discussion topic was clinginess From Sabine Hut it was up, up and away! The in relationships, one of the former members bush was literally humming from the thousands overheard us and turned to one of the others in of wasps all around us feeding on the his party and asked “Jim, you don’t find me too honeydew as we climbed 1000 metres up a clingy do you?” Some of us were concerned steep track. We made a quick time to the top about what they might have thought about our with awesome views down to Lake Rotoroa. conversations, however the next morning as I From here it was an easy stroll along the ridge was filling up my water bottle, one of them with nice steep drop-offs. The weather stayed mentioned he was pleased to see nothing had clear for us so the views continued but the wind changed in 40 years. By this stage Tom was was quite strong and ruffling my feathers so we really missing Sarah (well OK that started five kept on trucking until we got to Angelus hut. minutes into the trip) and began pre-writing We had a fantastic lunch at the hut which for heartfelt text messages in anticipation of most of us consisted of eating all the lunch we reaching phone coverage the next day. had left. I was slightly worried by this stage as I had run out of wine, but the beer that I had carried around had survived so I happily enjoyed a cold beer with my lunch. At this point a familiar face appeared at the window - it was Birgit! At first I thought I was imagining it and maybe the beer hadn’t being such a good idea but she was really there, having headed up in the hope of finding us at the hut, and we were happily reunited after our Stewart Island adventure. The wind stopped the planned skinny dip in Lake Angelus and instead we Photo 3: Former AUTC members Richard spent the afternoon snoozing in the sun in our Chandler, Tim Carter, Mike Frith and Jim Frater at sleeping bags on the deck; this was very West Sabine Hut amusing to the tourists who had headed up for the weekend. The hut was very crowded that The fifth day was the final day for Rebecca, night and Tom was forced to squeeze between Duncan and I. The track took us down the me and Kat after loosing his bunk. We made it Sabine out to Sabine Hut at the head of Lake very clear to him that there would be no Rotoroa where we meet the boat that would spooning no matter how much he was missing take us out. We bid farewell to the remainder of Sarah. the group who would head up to Lake Angelus.

-70- Photo 6: Jenny, Craig, Tom, Kat and Birgit with Lake Rotoiti in the background

The next day we left the hut and headed down Photo 5: Craig, Jenny, Kat and Tom outside the Roberts Ridge back to the car. The weather Angelus Hut again was spectacular with views of both lakes and very easy walking with lots of skipping and running down the steep track. Once back at the DOC campsite there was a compulsory swim in Lake Rotoiti, followed by a quick sunbathe and compulsory texts to Sarah, before we headed to Nelson for Pizza and to pack Tom back off to Auckland.

“Upon reaching the hut we were greeted by the resident sandflies at West Sabine Hut, who as always were pleased to see some AUTC blood”

______

“Am I too clingy, d’ya think, Jim?”

-71- “You may only hit the driver There followed two highly entertaining days of when travelling under 50km road tripping, made more so by backseat games of corners, bedroll fighting (the only stipulation per hour”, and other sordid being that you must not hit the driver unless South Island adventures. she/he was driving at less than 50km per hour), climbers’ fire drills, and “guess which random February 2009 item just fell out of the boot and hit me on the head”. To fill the interludes between these, Andy and I took to working our way through Author: Kat Collier our entire (not inconsiderable) repertoire of Beatles songs; a game in which recall of the Attendees: Jenny Waite, Craig Smith, Andy correct words and tunes certainly gains bonus Baddeley, Charis Wong and Kat Collier. points, but is by no means essential. Unsurprisingly, the other three were rather glad A long, long time ago, in the days when men to reach Hokitika. were men and women were women, and trampers were another gender entirely (actually Here we wandered along the beach and climbed it was last February), a somewhat eclectic various local monuments, and in the process, collection of individuals were loitering around discovered a rather intriguing fact about one of in a camping ground near Nelson, having just our number, Charis, it was revealed, has a spent a rather splendid seven days up at Nelson lengthy list of things which she wants to do “at Lakes, and were now occupying themselves least once before I die” – hence an afternoon with sightseeing, romantic sunset strolls along full of lying in roads, eating fish ‘n’ chips in the the beach, consuming vast quantities of cocoa middle of roundabouts, and kissing particularly pops and chocolate hot cross buns, listening to ugly wooden statues (ok, so that one was me). Tom rhapsodise about Sarah, and generally doing as little as possible. We found a cheap camping ground just on the outskirts of town, and proceeded to entertain This happy state of affairs, alas, was not to last. our fellow campers by practising our body Craig had ambitious plans for a three passes traverses and wrestling moves on the front traverse, so we bade a reluctant farewell to our lawn. One British couple, indeed, seemed to be cocoa pops, packed Tom off on a plane back to under the impression that we were part of a Auckland, loaded an absolutely ridiculous travelling circus, and came to sit on the running amount of baggage into Jen’s brave little blue board of their campervan and watch the show car, and set off in quest of adventure. while they ate breakfast.

(Backseat bedroll fights) (Craig and Charis body traversing)

-72- It was with a certain reluctance that we bade and kitchen areas, each with its own wood farewell to our cosy camp ground and headed burner. The villain of the piece, was, however, for the hills, but we were emboldened by the the long drop. It crouched maliciously in a tin assurances of Craig that the first hut was “only shed outside the back door, and was one of half an hour’s walk from the road end”. Craig, those charming European things in which a it transpires, is a dastardly liar. noisome raft of ‘stuff’ floats on the surface of a scummy pool until someone is brave enough to Following a scenic three hour stroll from sink the raft with the aid of a poo-stick. Long Arthur’s Pass, in which we meandered along a drops (something of a misnomer) aside, river valley and stumbled over large stones, we Carrington hut proved to be a very cosy reached the indeed birdless Anti-crow hut residence. We cooked dinner and chilled out sometime around dusk. There, we amused with a bit of broom and table work. Meanwhile, ourselves by observing Charis' increasingly Andy successfully completed a traverse right desperate attempts to climb into the upper around the inside of the hut, which was a fairly bunks, and by playing rounds of '500'. Dinner impressive feat given the size of it. was undoubtedly amazing (though the exact details escape me), and was followed up with an impressive jam sponge cake in honour of Andy’s birthday. This was in turn followed up by a chocolate brownie cake, as Andy, it transpired, had not trusted us to remember, and so had brought his own cake with him from Auckland. Upon discovering that there were only 15 candles in a pack I suggested cutting them in half in order to procure the requisite 27, and was hailed by all with the dubious compliment “you’re almost starting to think like an engineer”.

Our second day’s weather was decidedly unpleasant, and as we had only a short walk to Carrington hut, we decided we could afford to spend the morning lazing around in our (Chilling on the Railway Lines) sleeping bags with the remnants of the chocolate brownie for sustenance. The The next day was to be the big one, so we woke afternoon’s walk was damp, cold, and fairly early and started out up the valley. The weather miserable, particularly since the hut kept had cleared enough for us to see a decent teleporting to behind the next hill anytime we distance ahead, though the sky was still a thought we were getting close. Our best hunting threatening shade of grey, and there was a light and stalking tactics had to be employed, but drizzle as we made our way up through a gorge, finally, we had it surrounded, whereupon it following the course of a really rather surrendered cravenly, and tried to pretend it had delightful little stream, which sprang merrily just been playing a friendly game. Your over falls to laugh and chatter amongst the intrepid adventurers, however, weren’t fooled, stones, as streams invariably do in narratives and proceeded to weigh down the deck with all such as this. The walk up the gorge was good of our boots and axes in order to prevent its fun – lots of boulder-hopping, some interesting escape. scree slopes to traverse, and a fair number of falls. From the top of the gorge it was just a Once attained, Carrington hut proved to be little cruise up to the first of our three passes truly a prize beyond all expectations, with four (Harman). It was windy and cold up on top, so separate bunkrooms and two open-plan lounge

-73- we didn’t hang about, but headed northwards so, adhering to the age old tenet that topless is past some mist-shrouded tarns and over some warmer, we dicked around some more by more boulders until we reached the snowline. It posing for photos in a wind that threatened to soon became apparent that the snow was freeze us where we stood. The notable absolutely foul stuff – filthy and gritty, and exception was Jen, who refused point blank to undercut by a fast-flowing stream which was be induced into removing her clothing, but taking advantage of the summer thaw to turn laughed nervously like a person who finds the entire snowfield into one deceptively thin herself uncomfortably trapped in a phone box ice bridge. Nonetheless we managed to traverse with an escaped criminal, and declared this and reach the firmer slopes without major repeatedly that “you’re all mad”. mishap (other than injured pride), and started on upwards. Irritatingly, the weather had closed The wander back down to Carrington was in again, and the track was marked only with pretty, though rather damp, and otherwise fairly cairns, most of them buried in snow. Several uneventful. Craig did at one point promise to hours later, Andy spotted what he swore was carry home a large boulder Charis liked if she the turn off. Craig wasn’t sure. It might have could get it into his pack, but given that it was been.... But then, it might not have been.... Was roughly the size of a small rhinoceros, that that a marker, way up there? No one was didn’t come to much. We weren’t going to have enthusiastic enough to climb up and find out. time for another attempt on the passes, so were So we kept walking. After all, it probably all understandably a trifle miffed, but being the wasn’t the turn off anyway.... philosophical sorts we are, we made the best of it, and comforted ourselves with the thought of An hour or so later, we were all starting to feel cheesecake for dessert. Unfortunately, it more than a little chilly, and Charis' knees were transpires that strawberry cheesecake brings out an interesting shade of puce. The valley we had Craig’s most anal side, necessitating the use of been following sloped steeply upwards, ending a compass in order to ensure that the fifths are in what appeared to be a sheer brink. At this exactly even. point, not unsurprisingly, a debate ensued. Accusations of incompetence were made, and Predictably, the fourth day dawned cloudlessly aspersions cast on various parties’ navigational brilliant. It was not without considerable abilities. At this point, with all the flourish of a jealousy that we farewelled a trio of fellow conjurer pulling a solution from thin air, Craig trampers who had waited an extra day before produced a map and compass, which had attempting the passes, and were thus going to hitherto been notable by their absence. By close have a day of glorious weather up on the tops. examination of the map, it was discovered that On the plus side, they did very kindly leave us yes, we were indeed standing on the edge of a the keys to their car so that we could drive it cliff. And that we had overshot Whitehorn pass back to Hokitika for them. completely. A few swift calculations were enough to deduce that we would not now be Given the fact that we had nothing in particular able to cross the pass and reach the next hut to do that day, Craig was champing at the bit at before nightfall, and as none of us had much of an obscenely ungodly hour. Faced with the a desire to stumble around in treacherous snow combined tickling powers of Craig and Andy, at night in what was fast becoming a white out, the other girls soon gave in and got themselves we unanimously voted discretion to be the out of bed, but I was not to be so easily better part of valour. That being resolved, we extricated, and managed to resist their dicked around a bit glissading down the snow villainous advances for a good half hour before field, sat and ate lunch in the sunniest patch of I was finally forced to concede that I was boulders we could find, and headed back to indeed awake. Following a leisurely breakfast, Harman pass. Once there, we realised that our we set off for a day trip up the northeast valley. trip was likely to be distinctly lacking in epic- We strolled along down by the stream for the ness unless we remedied the situation swiftly, most part, under a brilliant summer sky which

-74- soon necessitated the removal of several layers broken her ankle and the rest of us had had to of clothing. Not content with our sunlit carry her out without him, but as Charis refused meandering, however, Craig bounded off ahead to participate without giggling immoderately, at a hectic pace. For awhile he could be that plan fell through somewhat. We finally glimpsed occasionally as a splodge of red caught up with Craig back at the car park, jacket against the rocks, but around midday we where he had managed to locate our loaned gave up chasing him and stopped for lunch and vehicle. Here, we stopped for an examination a sunbathe by one of the waterfalls. Here we of blisters acquired and a late lunch. I think I spent an inordinate amount of time attempting brought a new dimension to the traditional to convince Charis to go skinny-dipping, and cabin bread by layering it, not only with peanut coming up with ever more outrageous reasons butter, nutella and cheese, but also with apple, for why Craig had felt the need to escape our cucumber and chilli tuna. An interesting taste company. The general consensus was that it experience. may have had something to do with Andy proposing marriage to him earlier in the day.

After sunbathing a bit more, Andy wandered off to do a spot of climbing round the cliffs, and I went for a paddle up the stream. Eventually, Craig reappeared, after having tramped all the way up to Waimakariri Falls hut, where he had spent the afternoon taking an absolutely ludicrous quantity of photographs of (‘Carry out rubbish’.) himself. My memory is a little hazy, but I have an idea that Andy then proposed to Craig a On the way back out from Arthur’s Pass we second time (it was Valentine’s day), at which played ‘guess who got the most texts while we point he very quickly disappeared off into the were away’, and Andy and I subjected the distance again. others to more of our singing. We stopped on the way back to our friendly Hokitika After a morning during which some bright campground to pick up essential supplies, and spark came up with the bright idea of trussing had one of the most ridiculously huge after- Charis up in Andy’s pack, the fifth day proved tramp meals I have ever encountered – roast to contain much of the same – that is, Craig veges, sweetcorn, black pudding, and an entire bounding off ahead whilst the rest of us strolled tub of ice cream. Craig and I also decided that casually behind, debating which sort of animal Andy needed a haircut, so took to him with a we would most like to be reincarnated as. We pair of scissors – probably the most shit-scared were very tempted to play a cruel and sadistic I have ever seen him. Then, leaving Craig trick on Craig by pretending that Charis had happily ensconced in front of the TV watching

-75- The Queen, we made ourselves cosy in the camp laundry and proceeded to initiate Charis into the art of getting right royally pissed. Games of ‘I never’ were played, in which far too much was revealed about certain individuals’ love lives. After several hours, a disappointingly sober Jen had given up and gone to bed, Charis was merrily passed out on a couch, and Andy and I were engaged in a drunken sob-fest about our miserable lives. Needless to say, Craig was not amused.

Finally, the morning of our separation dawned. (A minor collision...) Determined to cram as much fun as possible into the trip, we entertained ourselves with And to describe the road trippers more: Jenny piggyback races back and forth across a Waite (most esteemed driver and dissenting pedestrian crossing, which allowed the Napier voice of sanity), Craig Smith (navigator motorists a chance to display their notable extraordinaire), Andrew Baddeley (chief grasp of invective. Eventually, Jen and Andy instigator of highly dubious activities and departed on the epic drive back to Auckland, champion of the ‘Why don’t you lot grow up?’ while Craig, Charis and I caught a bus via brigade), Charis Wong (list-maker, perennial Arthur’s Pass to Christchurch where we would victim, and collector of large chunks of rock), spend a couple of days making hostel inmates and Kathleen Collier (scribe, coffee addict, and jealous of our chocolate fondue, tying Charis to she of the ridiculously ticklish toes). bedposts, and discovering the joys of Greek takeaways, she-wees, and bicycle crashes. But that’s another story.

“It’ll only take us half an hour from the road end . . .” – A sorely mistaken Craig

______

“If you were an otter in a zoo, I’d come and give you fish.” – Andy

-76- Copland Track and Lake Copland Track. It was a fine clear day, Daniells although most of the track was in the shade so we didn't see the sun very much that day. July 2009 We had a 7 hour tramp ahead of us and was able to warm up the muscles comfortably with Author: Rebecca Caldwell the track being relatively flat for the first part of it. Things got interesting when we started Attendees: Jeremy Chirnside (leader), Keri walking next to the river and over big rocks Yukich, Rob Connolly and Rebecca Caldwell with loads of ice on the surface. These rocks carried on for a long while. Even once you had Jeremy had been keen for sometime to do a finished this section and gone bush again, you winter South Island tramp and after talking to encountered the same icy rocks on a different Rob and I about it in January, he inspired stretch a short while later. Despite the enthusiasm to go with him and check out what slipperiness, it was really beautiful and looked tramping in winter would actually be like. like a winter wonderland. Finally the time had come, so after flying to Christchurch, meeting Keri (came down with her family earlier), we picked up the rental car and were soon on our way to do a 3 day tramp on the Copland Track, a couple of days site seeing and then embark on another 2-3 day tramp in Arthurs Pass. The unfortunate thing for us was that the Canterbury High Country had seen so much snow that the option to do a tramp in Arthurs Pass was no longer viable given we had decided not to pack crampons and ice axes. So Lake Daniells became the next tramping choice instead. Despite this draw back, driving through to Arthurs Pass was just The boys were ahead and Keri and I finally spectacular …. snow right up to the road edge. finished the rocky section and entered the steep We stopped at one of the lakes (completely ascent in the bush. We came across a couple of frozen) and walked on it (I have never walked newbies who had only done a day tramp before on a frozen lake before, unreal). and were keen to try the multi day tramping experience. We stayed with them for a while, We had planned to have a few days site seeing negotiating the track with the orange triangle in between the tramps to see Franz Josef markers. All seemed to be going well until we Glacier, Fox Glacier and Lake Matheson, but had difficulty finding the next orange triangle the weather was so glorious, we decided to marker on one part of the track. We ended up delay doing the first tramp and do these touristy walking 45 minutes without any site of another things first. Good thing we had as once we had marker to go on. At this stage, we still hadn't finished Copland Track, the weather was so caught up with the boys and the newbies, Keri foggy, it would have been very difficult to see and I were starting to worry that perhaps we the glaciers at all. had gone off track. We had felt like this 20 minutes earlier but decided to keep going just Copland Track in case. Given we hadn't found the boys and After leaving the carpark, the four of us walked had concerned thoughts of setting up a bivouac over the river with no problems (mainly shelter for four if we had got lost (we because it had no water in it) to start the remembered another track and thought we were

-77- suppose to go up that one instead). We decided Next morning was a 6hr return day trip to to turn back and find the last marker we had another hut. Was a beautiful day and had no seen and make sure we had taken the right path. problems staying together or missing markers. We found the last marker again and realised that yes we had taken the right path, the other track (which merged onto same track later) was nearby the marker and had been closed off, but we couldn't remember this when starting to mildly panic earlier (note to self: always check map's route before tramping next time). We started walking the same track we had backtracked again and only then did we come across people coming back the other way. We asked them if they had seen two men ahead, “yes”, they said. Well that was good news, but the bad news was we were now 1.5 hours behind schedule. We finally caught up with Closer to the hut, Jeremy and Rob decided to Rob, then Jeremy who was sunning himself on go on ahead to find it. Despite our walking the only rock that wasn't in the shade. Keri and pace, finding the hut seemed to be taking I had a 15 minute break (including lunch) and longer than necessary and again we had then we kept going because none of us wanted daylight hours against us, so Keri and I headed to be walking in the dark later. The rest of the back to the hut with the view of the boys track was mainly ascending. I quickly tired. catching us up. An hour later, the boys caught By the 7th hour, I was put in front, pushing us up. They said the hut was only 10 minutes myself with every step. We finally made it up walk from where we had stopped for lunch but to the hut, 8.5 hours later. If only we hadn't at the time, it looked like the hut would be turned back, we would have been there in 7 further away. Rob said our lunch spot was hours, but in hindsight, we wanted to be sure better than the hut's position so that made Keri we had taken the right track. It was now dark and I feel better that we hadn't continued. We but fortunately, we only needed to use the head made it back to the hut and instead of having torches 15 minutes before arriving to Welcome dinner, we went to the hot pool first. This time, Flats hut. The best thing about this hut was it we had a bit of daylight left so we could see the had a natural hot spring pool, not tiny either. mountains with snow on top surrounding us - it Thank goodness, as the very spacious hut was was magical. It soon became dark and we not very warm and the fireplace was not very retreated back to the hut to make dinner. We effective in keeping the hut warm either. After noted the hut members having difficulty making ourselves dinner, we donned our togs lighting the fire, Rob did his best to light it too, and enjoyed a great warm soak. Was amazing, it was an ongoing effort and even when lit, did soothed the tired muscles and made the trip nothing to warm the masses, except the lucky completely worthwhile. We sat there enjoying few sitting in front of the fire. no city noise, the serenity and a beautiful starry sky, further complemented with sips of wine Next day we headed back down to the carpark. that I had lugged up with me. 40 mins later and No issues this time, pretty much all stayed after some good chats between ourselves and together and with the sunshine the previous the warden and his wife (who were soaking day, it had melted the ice on the rock surfaces, with us at the same time), we dragged ourselves so no major issues with slipperiness on the way out of the pool, froze our butts off while back. Got to the car just under 7 hours and dressing and made haste back to the hut. We headed to Franz Josef. During dinner at the ale all slept well that night. house in Franz Josef we were shaken by a

-78- moderate earthquake, it turned out it was a all efforts to light a decent fire with wet wood. large magnitude 7.8 quake centred in Fiordland. Only lit a little bit, so the hut was very cold! I initially thought the boys were being funny, shaking the table or the glass of wine had really gone to my head. The following day we relaxingly cruised up to Greymouth and stayed at their local Top 10 camping ground. I made us all a stir-fry dinner with lots of veges and after much talking, resting and drinking a pint at the local pub, we were asleep in anticipation of our next day's adventure.

Lake Daniells Stopping for lunch or two at Reefton, we made our way to start of Lake Daniells track shortly after. 2 hours later we were at the hut (this track is really good to bring kids on a first Next morning, we had sunshine again and made tramp), really easy. We didn't care, it was nice our way down again, back to the car. We to do an easy walk, especially given we got headed back into Christchurch after a nice soak very wet from our first heavy rainfall on the in the commercial hotpools situated in Lewis walk up. We soon reached the hut and were Pass (albeit not as good as the one at Welcome looking at a beautiful lake. Flats Hut).

After dropping Keri off at a hostel in Christchurch (she was heading back with her family), Jeremy, Rob and I resided one night in Cashmere, with Duncan, a good friend of Jeremy's. We headed to a local pub and watched the rugby, drank beer and ate a really nice dinner. Next morning we went to a local cafe for brekkie, saw some of the sights close by and by late afternoon we were at the airport, ready to board a plane back to Auckland.

Tramping in winter is definitely colder, but Would be a great hut to have a party for the well worth the experience! night. Just in winter, make sure you bring lots of warm clothes, as once again, Rob exhausted

“During dinner at the ale house in Franz Josef we were shaken by a moderate earthquake, it turned out it was a large magnitude 7.8 quake centred in Fiordland”

-79- Cass - Lagoon Saddle, IB Base replied with “You need to speak into Arthur’s Pass the microphone”, whereas if Richard had spoken any closer he would have swallowed the radio. Later that evening we started munching 2-6 December 2009 on the 1kg of Party Mix lollies. Author: Nicolai Thapa The following day we reached Hamilton Hut after doing a side trip to the harmonious Mirror Group Members: Richard Greatrex, Lois Tarn. We crossed a suspension bridge and a 3 Cooper and Kristina Aluzaite wire bridge over ankle-deep rivers (just for the novelty). The hut was situated on a grassy With an early and wet start to the day of the 2nd patch above a floodplain with glorious views of of December, the 4 of us headed out to Arthur’s the empowering mountains and Stag Hill. Pass in the hope of fording the Otira River and proceeding along the Harper Pass route. We Listening to Lois on the harmonica, whilst knew that the odds weren’t on our side due to gazing at the view, created the moment. Good the heavy rainfall and our fears were confirmed radio communication that evening with IB Base by the DOC staff’s very brash advice for and distant fellow trampers Rion and Andy, Harper’s Pass. With the reluctant decision made was our sole source of interaction with the for an alternative trip we hit the tracks. The trip outside world. Scrumptious cheesecake was consisted of the first day doing some quick made to perfection in spite of not having the return trips and then setting out on the Cass - instructions - someone was carrying them very Lagoon Saddle in the Craigieburn Forest, in safely (so safely…). Our last moments before reverse with numerous side trips, some marked hitting the sack were spent playing and others marginally traceable. President/Scum by candlelight. The Devils Punch Bowl was the first quick We had planned to do only a 6 hour return trip return trip. Kristina was the first one to get up to The Pinnacles so it was a blasé start to the close and personal with the magnificent morning. The walk was along a very braided cascading waterfall. She made a bold and long river within an openly spaced valley. After feminine roar. It didn’t quite equal the lunch, we made a short but steep climb up to thunderous crash of the water falling from the top of The Pinnacles. We admired the view 131m. It was impossible to stand closer than 20 that was slightly shaded by an overhanging tree metres from the base as a force field effect was on top of the sheer face. The sounds of sheep created by the vaporised water being rebounded and cows on the other side of the river about off the boulders, which succumbed gravity by 400 metres away invited you to imagine the raging up the walls. senses of a stalking predator, preying on clumsy farm animals; sitting on a high outcrop During the descent down the Harper River, I along a loose and crumbly knife edge, learnt a valuable lesson; don’t make an effort to breathing easily after the speedy climb, vision try not to get your boots wet, otherwise you adapting and focusing after being out of the could end up face first into the water. We later glaring sun with the slushing of the river below crossed rivers that ran down a semi-gorge, in cloaking the very existence of your presence. some areas where there were deep pools, the water colour could be described as aqua blue. Later that evening back at Hamilton Hut, Upon arrival at the Lagoon Saddle Shelter and Kristina had the creative idea to climb a third of Hut, we chose to stay in the shelter as it was Stag Hill to greet the sunrise. With the rest of more homely. After the radio schedule, we had the party semi-interested, Richard took the idea a troublesome time getting our intentions further by planning a route to the summit. Stag across. Our transmission must have been dire as

-80- Hill should really be called a ‘mountain’ as it is at the finish. Richard and I attempted hitch just under 1600m and the grandeur of it enticed hiking for the first time. Responses were bazaar us to dominate it. This best describes the - some would signal a wave as if saying, “See spontaneousness of our trip; a mere casual you, bye”. After sprinting a narrow 100m “let’s see the sunrise” suggestion led to an bridge and shimmying around a tight bend ambitious arduous scramble up to the peaks. using the barriers we hastily approached a German couple who were very willing to take The plan was to get to the top of Stag Hill and us down the road. The conversation was kept go along the ridge for awhile then descend basic and short due to their lack of English and down to Cass Saddle. It was an instant start to the shortage of Richard’s German. the hill climb, certainly tough, but at some clearings we could see the rewarding view. The After a good spot of tea by the Toyota Surf we scene was spectacular from the very top - made our way to collect Kristina and Lois who Mirror Tarn and the hut were visible, the wide were being accompanied by some charming valley was just stunning. fellows from Christchurch.

At the top there were a few patches of snow. There was a good mix of member contribution With the clouds brewing we had to descend to our group dynamics: quickly and abort the planned route along the Richard - Excellent navigation skills and ridge. Near the bottom it was steep which made charismatic leadership. for thrilling scree running. Kristina had the Lois – Extensive knowledge about the ecology fright of her life when her grip was lost on a of the flora and fauna. scraggly branch attached to loose soil. With Kristina – Enthusiastic, bubbly attitude and rare everyone safe and sound we proceeded to Cass Lithuanian and Russian songs. Saddle Hut. The best radio set-up must have Myself - Ability to climb/scramble up hills at been on that day. We went to extreme lengths, break neck speed. climbing trees, creating a mast, hoisting the aerial above the tree tops, and using Kristina’s By spending so much time together in the precision throwing. Craigieburn Forest, we really did have an enjoyable time conquering the marvels which The last day was easy going but the tracks were the region has to offer. rather busy. It was afternoon when we arrived

“I learnt a valuable lesson; don’t make an effort to try not to get your boots wet, otherwise you could end up face first into the water”

-81- ….. so, where to next?