1 BAB 1 PENDAHULUAN 1.1 Latar Belakang Kimono Merupakan

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1 BAB 1 PENDAHULUAN 1.1 Latar Belakang Kimono Merupakan BAB 1 PENDAHULUAN 1.1 Latar Belakang Kimono merupakan pakaian tradisional Jepang. Kata kimono berasal dari kata ki yang berarti memakai dan mono yang berarti barang, secara harafiah kimono berarti sesuatu yang dipakai atau pakaian. Pada zaman dulu, masyarakat Jepang memakai kimono dalam kesehariannya. Pada zaman monarki, feudal hingga modern, bentuk kimono mengalami perubahan yang cukup pesat hingga akhirnya menjadi bentuk kimono yang sekarang ini. Lowry (2014), menjelaskan bahwa pada masa Jomon dan Yayoi (660SM-552), sejarah tertulis Jepang tidak begitu jelas, tetapi para arkeologis menyimpulkan bahwa sekitar tahun 300 SM, Jepang menggunakan serat kayu dan sayuran untuk membuat kain, kemudian memadukannya sebagai pakaian berlapis dua dengan tali diikat. Bentuk kimono pada masa ini masih sangat sederhana yang berlengan pendek dengan celana yang diikat seperti tas. Di Jepang, zaman monarki terdapat dua fase yaitu monarki awal dan akhir. Zaman monarki awal terdapat periode Yamato, Asuka, Hakuho, dan Nara, sedangkan monarki akhir terdapat periode Heian. Pada periode Asuka (552-695), Jepang melakukan transaksi perdagangan antara China dan Korea. Dari perdagangan ini, Jepang mendapat masukan barang berharga berupa pakaian dari China yang merupakan bentuk dasar dari kimono dan juga masuknya agama Buddha dari Korea yang memberikan pengaruh besar terhadap bidang kebudayaan terutama pada kesenian di Jepang. Pada periode Hakuho (695-710), bentuk kimono pada periode ini tidak terlalu berbeda dari kimono yang ada di periode Asuka. Pada periode Nara (710-785), bentuk kimono pada periode ini mengikuti bentuk original dari China yang memiliki potongan lurus dengan lengan baju yang lembut dan lebar yang jatuh dari bahu hingga ke pergelangan tangan serta ditambahkan aksesoris seperti syal atau ikat pinggang. Kimono jenis ini bertahan selama lebih dari dua abad. Pada periode Heian (785-1185), para bangsawan mempunyai ketertarikan dalam bidang pakaian. Pada masa ini, Jepang berinisiatif menciptakan ‘gaya’ sendiri dan kimono yang paling terkenal di zaman ini adalah kimono yang dipakai oleh kaum wanita bangsawan yang disebut sebagai jyuuni- 1 2 hitoe atau kimono yang terdiri dari 12 lapis. Masing-masing dari lapisan kimono ini lebih besar dan ringan dari lapisan sebelumnya. Kimono ini juga masih dalam bentuk kotak, namun ukurannya sangat besar dan ditambah lipatan ekor yang panjang. Zaman feodal di Jepang juga mengalami dua fase, yaitu feodal awal dan akhir. Zaman feodal awal terdapat periode Kamakura, Muromachi, dan Azuchi-Momoyama, sedangkan feodal akhir terdapat periode Edo-Tokugawa. Pada periode Kamakura (1185-1333), kebudayaan aristokrat masa Heian turun dan diganti dengan kelas samurai yang mengontrol pemerintahan. Perpindahan ibukota juga terjadi pada masa ini yaitu dari Kyoto ke Kamakura. Kimono pada periode ini mengalami perubahan pada bagian lengannya. Jenis kimono pada periode ini lebih praktis dan nyaman untuk menyelaraskan kesederhanaan kehidupan samurai. Para wanita bangsawan juga tidak lagi memakai jyuuni-hitoe dikarenakan terlalu besar dan tidak praktis serta lengan kimono yang lebar. Wanita bangsawan pada periode ini memakai kosode yang merupakan kimono dengan lebar lengannya lebih pendek, serta memakai hakama yang merupakan celana panjang yang tergerai dan biasanya berwarna merah. Kimono jenis ini juga dipakai oleh rakyat jelata. Kimono pada zaman ini bertahan berabad-abad sebagai baju formal wanita bangsawan yang sampai sekarang masih dipakai oleh miko (penjaga kuil wanita) ketika mengadakan upacara ritual Shinto. Untuk upacara ritual juga terdapat beberapa pakaian yang terbuka di atas kimono yang dipakai yaitu uchikake . Setelah itu, keshogunan Kamakura diambil alih oleh keshogunan Ashikaga yang kemudian terjadi perpindahan ibukota kembali ke Kyoto. Klan Ashikaga terkenal sebagai klan yang memiliki citarasa dan semangat dalam mempertahankan bidang kesenian. Pada periode Muromachi (1333-1573), wanita harus tunduk pada suaminya. Bentuk kimono pada masa ini terlihat sederhana, terutama pada kaum laki- laki dikarenakan mereka sering pergi berperang. Pada periode Azuchi-Momoyama (1573-1615), terjadi penyatuan seluruh Jepang oleh Daimyo atau tuan tanah Oda Nobunaga. Setelah Nobunaga terbunuh, kekuasaannya diwariskan kepada Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Kematian Hideyoshi juga menandakan akhir perseteruan antara keturunannya yang telah berjuang selama 17 tahun dengan Tokugawa Ieyasu. Dalam periode ini, para seniman dan pemahat mendapatkan kesempatan untuk menunjukkan ketrampilan yang mereka miliki. 3 Kimono pada masa ini juga masih merupakan kosode , tetapi mengalami banyak perubahan seperti pada sulaman, hiasan, motif, dan warnanya. Pada zaman Edo, sistem pemerintahan berpusat pada kaum samurai di bawah pimpinan dari Shogun Tokugawa. Para wanita memiliki peran penting dalam sebuah klan yang ingin mempengaruhi politik di istana. Karena itu, wanita dipakai sebagai alat politik, yaitu melalui perkawinan politik. Dengan cara perkawinan politik, wanita dipakai untuk memberikan keturunan kepada kaisar. Keturunan tersebut akan memiliki hak waris dalam kekuasaan kerajaan. Kaum wanita pada periode ini, dididik agar taat dan setia kepada keluarga. Para wanita dari golongan bangsawan juga diajarkan tentang etika tradisional untuk melayani tamu. Pada periode ini, terdapat berbagai jenis pakaian yang dapat mencerminkan status ekonomi, sosial, jenis kelamini, usia, dan pekerjaan dari pemakainya. Anggota kelas militer yang menduduki tingkat teratas pada zaman ini, semakin dibatasi secara eknomi. Bagi anggota kelas pedagang dan juga kalangan bangsawan, perbedaan posisi sosial dan kekayaan mereka dapat dilihat dari pakaian mereka. Kemudian pemerintah Tokugawa mengeluarkan undang-undang untuk mengatur jenis pakaian yang cocok untuk kelas masyarakat tertentu. Undang-undang tersebut mencerminkan upaya pemerintah untuk mempertahankan perbedaan sosial dengan melarang individu melanggar batas kelas yang dapat mengganggu hierarki sosial yang berlaku (Hartono, 2007). Pada awal tahun 1617, di Edo terdapat sebuah undang-undang yang dikeluarkan untuk melarang penggunaan warna emas dan perak pada pakaian para pelacur. Kemudian pada tahun 1656, pemerintah Tokugawa mengancam penangkapan pada siapa pun yang memakai pakaian mewah atau berpenampilan lancang. Kemudian setelah kebakaran besar di Edo pada tahun 1657, dikeluarkan peraturan ketat tentang warna dan gaya dekorasi yang diizinkan untuk dikenakan oleh pedagang. Pada tahun 1663, Shogun mengeluarkan perintah yang membatasi jumlah uang yang dapat dihabiskan untuk pakaian yang dikenakan oleh janda permaisuri, para putri kekaisaran, selir shogun dan juga pelayan wanita di istana. Perintah serupa juga dikeluarkan pada tahun 1713 untuk mengatur pakaian istri daimyo (tuan feodal) (Milhaupt, 2014). Seiring perjalanan waktu sekitar zaman Meiji, budaya Barat masuk ke Jepang sehingga masyarakat Jepang mulai memakai pakaian bergaya Barat dalam 4 kesehariannya, sedangkan untuk menghadiri acara tertentu, masyarakat Jepang memakai kimono , misalnya pada acara pernikahan atau pemakaman dan lainnya. Kimono juga merupakan hasil dari kesenian tenun tradisional Jepang yang bernilai seni. Kimono formal hanya dibuat dari kain sutera kelas terbaik dan hanya dijahit dengan tangan. Umumnya kimono tidak pernah dijual dalam keadaan jadi, melainkan harus dipesan dan dijahit sesuai ukuran badan. Kimono untuk wanita sangat beragam dari segi jenis, warna, hingga motif. Warna dan motif yang digunakan selalu disesuaikan dengan umur dan gender, terutama di kalangan wanita. Selain itu, warna dan motif pada kimono juga memiliki makna dan arti filosofis. Dalam penggunaan warna, kimono wanita muda dihiasi dan berwarna cerah, sedangkan kimono wanita yang lebih tua menggunakan warna yang lebih halus serta motif yang lebih tenang. Penggunaan motif kimono berkaitan dengan status pemakai, mencerminkan emosi atau yang berhubungan dengan musim atau kesempatan. 1.1.1 Kimono Uchikake Hill (2011), menjelaskan bahwa pada periode Edo, wanita kelas atas atau kalangan bangsawan memakai kimono uchikake pada keseharian dan juga pada saat upacara khusus dan acara keluarga. Uchikake adalah kimono luar besar yang terbuat dari tekstil sutra mewah atau jubah formal yang menjuntai panjang dengan lengan lebar yang melapisi kosode polos dan hakama . Kosode (小袖) adalah kimono dasar yang dipakai untuk pria dan wanita. Kosode ini dapat dipakai sebagai pakaian dalam maupun pakaian luar. Secara harfiah kosode adalah kimono yang berlengan pendek. Dalam cuaca hangat, ikatan uchikake sering dilepaskan dari bahu sehingga lengan panjang dari uchikake menjuntai ke lantai. Uchikake juga merupakan kimono yang paling indah dan dipakai oleh wanita pada saat pernikahannya. Namun pada zaman modern seperti sekarang, dikarenakan pengaruh dari budaya barat, kimono uchikake hanya dipakai pada saat penikahan tradisional. Kimono ini juga tergolong sangat mahal, sehingga kebanyakan orang tidak membelinya, namun meminjam dengan harga yang sangat mahal. Korpus data yang digunakan untuk menggambarkan kimono uchikake pada zaman Edo adalah drama Atsu Hime . 5 1.1.2 Atsu Hime (((篤姫(篤姫))) Gambar 1.1.2 Drama Atsu Hime (Sumber: http://www.dramafans.org/drama/azns_atsu_hime) Atsu Hime (篤姫)merupakan drama sejarah Jepang yang dirilis pada tahun 2008 karya Motohiko Sano. Drama ini memiliki 50 episode yang ditayangkan dari tanggal 6 Januari 2008 sampai 14 Desember 2008. Drama ini menceritakan tentang kehidupan seorang putri yang bernama Atsuko dari wilayah Satsuma di Jepang selama tahun-tahun terakhir Keshogunan
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