1 Book Five ‘CARING 40’

‘New techniques today with earlier advice updated’

2 INTRODUCTION

In many aspects, our Koi are no different to any other living thing on the planet by the fact that they can and do also succumb to physical damages; illnesses, natural parasites; bacterial diseases and viruses.

Having said this, whilst most other forms of life can be attended to whilst the ‘patients’ are breathing in fresh air, all forms of fish life are surrounded by the far more complex element that is water. The water surrounding our Koi must also be monitored closely if the correct remedies and treatment regimes offered are to be successful in producing perfect solutions to the problems faced.

In our hobby this is termed by many, simply as ‘Koi Keeping’ and it can be the most daunting area of this pastime especially to newcomers to the hobby. The main reason for this that many enthusiasts in many countries of the world offer huge amounts of conflicting advice.

No doubt it is a huge area to understand, as there are so many different matters to understand. Sadly the path to understanding here is littered with inaccurate and useless information that is often dangerous together with equally useless remedies that cannot possibly deliver the claims made of them.

For many years now there are certain basic chemicals vital to the treatment of our Koi that have been ‘modified’ and re-packaged for ‘convenience’ that will thus allow them to be stacked neatly on shelves complete with labels and colourful boxes for the impulse buyer to be tempted by.

However and in truth, the entire subject is not at all difficult to understand if viewed from a logical angle. I admit that ALL my teachings on these matters have been learned from those people who produce the finest Koi in the world – namely the Koi breeders of Japan who have freely imparted their expertise to me over many years.

There are those who are under the real impression that we have many qualified Veterinarians around us who are specialist experts in the field of Koi. Please be assured that this is not the case at all, whilst there are specialists for fish farming where huge profits can be made at the end of it all, there are no such profits available for those forms of expertise in relation to Koi and carp and we must face facts that we Koi keepers have to face it all alone.

Needless to say, this information applies to Koi and carp only and should not be applied to other species of fish either ornamental or otherwise.

3

THE MEDICINE CHEST AND THE KOI KEEPER

KOI HANDLING EQUIPMENT a. A suitable plastic circular Koi inspection bowl.

This is an important item to own, as your Koi will have to be placed in this bowl, after careful netting, for general routine inspection or medication. It is also required if you need to place your Koi in bags before transporting them to a show. Please bear in mind that your bowl should be easily large enough to accommodate your biggest Koi comfortably without causing discomfort. In view of this and the fact that Koi can grow quite quickly over the years I would suggest that, the larger the better, is your best choice for this piece of equipment. Koi bowls are manufactured in the UK from blue-pigmented plastic in many sizes and some can be sturdy enough to cope with your requirements quite satisfactorily.

These UK made bowls are offered for sale at many Koi outlets but the more-expensive ‘hard to find ones’ are imported from Japan and are far superior in terms of build quality and longevity.

Do not fall into the trap of buying the shallow, rectangular ‘Japanese basket with a lid’ sometimes offered for sale in the UK as these were only made for general live food fish auctions in Japan - generally magoi and eels. They can sometimes produce damage, often to the anal fin, if it gets caught in the slits on the base of the basket. b. A very good, purpose-made Koi Net.

Angler’s landing nets are of no use whatsoever for this task and will cause serious damages to your Koi if employed to this end. There are some manufacturers in the UK who make and supply Koi nets, in various sizes of pole and net diameter, to Koi dealers for re- sale.

These nets are usually supplied with hollow aluminium poles with moveable rubber handgrips but I have always found these nets to be difficult to manoeuvre, particularly when attempting to net Koi in smaller sizes. 4

By far, the best Koi nets available are the special wooden-handled, shallow ones imported from Japan and widely used by the Japanese Koi breeders and shown here. Unfortunately the sea-freight and importation costs make these nets far more expensive than the ones produced in the UK.

Please also be very aware that Koi nets are only intended to gently 'guide and coax' the Koi into a bowl – at NO time should they ever be used to lift the Koi out of the water.

Good netting techniques come by way of patience and experience. c. Koi Handling or Lifting Nets.

These are also referred to as ‘Socks’ at some outlets and, in my own experiences, are not really necessary at all as long as one has a double-strength vinyl bag to handle the work of transferring a Koi from the 'bowl' of a shallow Koi net into the plastic bowl by slipping the bag underneath the head of the Koi.

Many Japanese Koi breeders refuse to use these 'lifting nets' because of potential damage that can result by way of mucus loss. My advice is to use the good old vinyl bag instead. Very little water is required when transferring Koi by vinyl bag because mucus cannot possibly be damaged against this material and it’s also far cheaper!

WATER TESTING EQUIPMENT

I use the words ‘water testing’ as opposed to ‘water analysis’ here as these have two entirely different meanings.

‘Water Testing’ by the serious Koi keeper only really requires ‘indicators’ for several specific tests with regard to our pond water.

‘Water Analysis’, on the other hand, is a far more detailed, and ‘an often difficult to understand’ series of many specific tests that are usually carried out by the laboratory technicians employed by water authorities or private water analysis companies andusually at a substantial fee with their major clients coming from industry.

In most reports that I have come across it is only the final figure that is given for each test. This gives no indication at all as to the harm or good a particular reading can be in relationship to your Koi, it is merely a figure given by technicians who have no expertise or interest as to the requirements of live fish.

In short, most laboratories are there to produce these very accurate figures but few technicians producing the figures have any idea as to whether these are good or bad for fish stocks. 5

Bearing in mind that both our mains water and pond water conditions can vary significantly on a day-to-day basis, especially when a new system has to go through the initial ‘maturing process’; today’s Koi keeper really only needs to have on hand, the following ‘indicator test kits’ which again, are exactly that – ‘Indicators’.

(Again whilst these ‘indicators’ give a good general result for pond water parameters as to the particular test in question, they are not nearly as accurate as those produced by water analysis laboratories – nor are they, thankfully, anywhere near as expensive.)

The Tetra Company in Germany has produced water test kits made for both aquarium keepers and pond keepers for many years and I have always found these kits to be excellent 'indicators' for the most common water tests required by Koi keepers.

‘Tetra-Tests’ are very easy to use together with clear instructions and colour comparisons, they can be purchased from most aquatic outlets and specialist Koi dealerships quite cheaply. I would also advise the owner that these test kits are discarded to waste after one year and replaced with new ones.

I suggest the following test kits are purchased for your necessary requirements in water testing equipment.

In most cases, these tests are really only necessary to make with any regularity when a new system is starting up and water quality fluctuations begin with the maturing of the biological stage of the filter. There may be other times in a mature system when water readings may be worth checking if your Koi are not behaving as usual. More often than not it will be a parasitic problem but symptoms of both imperfect water and a parasitic problem produce the same visual conditions on the behaviour our Koi.

It is advisable therefore to check basic water readings before taking a mucus sample.

6 a. pH test

This test is an indication of the concentration of hydrogen ions in the presence of a changing alkalinity. For our Koi water readings, we generally require a reading from 7.00 and up to 8.00 and this is generally acceptable although many favour a reading of 7.5 to 7.8.

On a new system especially, the pH reading can fluctuate from morning to night as well as on a day-to-day basis. In view of this I would advise that, in a new system, morning and evening readings are taken and recorded two days apart until they become stable. For mature systems, generally a monthly or quarterly pH test is all that is required. b. Nitrite test

This reading ideally should be zero for optimum water conditions however; this will fluctuate severely on a new system and can prove to be serious if not addressed promptly. If the reading becomes high (as per the colour chart) then feeding should be stopped and constant new water added to the system until the bacterial activity in the biological stage of the filtration system begins to be able to cope with the nitrite build-up.

If this problem continues then the ‘effects’ of nitrite on the Koi themselves can be reduced by adding pure cooking salt to the system at the rate of 1.5 kilos to 3 kilos per ton (220 UK gallons) of water.

In a new system, I suggest that nitrite readings are taken and recorded on a daily basis until they stabilise, after that a monthly or quarterly test should be sufficient. c. Ammonia test

Again, this is only an ‘indicator’, this reading should also be zero as ammonia build-up can prove to be fatal to our Koi.

This reading also manifests itself in a new pond system during the initial maturing process, which can take over six weeks to stabilise in some cases where stocking rates are low. Prolonged high ammonia readings can be extremely dangerous to your Koi.

Again, cutting out feeding for a while and constant water changes can reduce ammonia build-up and daily tests are vital in a new system. d. Dissolved Oxygen test

7 This test can be very helpful during the warm, summer months when high water temperatures can deplete the dissolved oxygen content of the pond water.

(A good, reliable thermometer is useful here)

Always try to maintain a dissolved oxygen reading of 6.0ppm and over if possible – this can be achieved, if required, by introducing added aeration from a suitable air pump and air diffusers in warm water periods.

These four indicator tests are really all that are required generally but there are many others available such as nitrate; chlorine; GH; KH; zinc; copper etc. etc, which may well be required from time to time and can also be purchased readily from aquatic outlets or Internet suppliers.

Regarding KH and GH readings in an outdoor Koi pond, whilst I am very aware that many enthusiasts place great importance on these matters, I have yet to find them of any real significance other than for indoor aquarium conditions that apply to other species of fish. Again, if you feel the need to check these on your pond water, kits are readily available; the above tests already mentioned are the most important.

It is said, quite correctly, that ‘We do not keep Koi, we keep water’ - intimating that once we do learn to ‘keep water’ then the Koi will keep themselves happily ever after? Alas I think we’d be foolish if we believed that this would be the case.

There are thousands upon thousands of text books written by qualified authors covering ALL the thousands of aspects relating to water requirements for this and for that, and it would take a large part of a lifetime to be able to select from all of these those items that are pertinent to Koi. Then the task comes that once these have been selected one must then learn to understand them!

All of this is more akin to marine biology rather than Koi keeping.

An incredible amount of importance is placed by only a few on certain ‘water quality’ aspects of a thousand different Koi ponds.

As a result, common assumptions are drawn incorrectly and then passed on to others.

Please talk to the best Koi breeders in the world who may only own a pH and ammonia kit – full stop!

A word of advice here - rather than investigating the mysteries of ‘water quality’ why not turn your attentions to the item that produces it – namely the filter system.

8 MAINS WATER SUPPLY

In all the years I have been involved in Nishikigoi I have yet to witness personally one single case in a Koi pond system where Koi losses have been positively identified as a result of incoming mains water which contains levels of added chemicals that are potentially harmful to our Koi.

I must stress here, however, that I have witnessed the dangers of incoming mains water to empty display ponds filled at shows where no other water is available. In several cases there have been losses of Koi and this has sometimes resulted in the show being abandoned. In these isolated cases it is always the level of chlorine or chloramines within the mains water that is the culprit and it is also common sense to add a suitable liquid de-chlorinator at the correct rate even if the organisers profess their water has been treated beforehand.

Some suppliers of mains water purification systems will first ask for a report as to the readings on your own water supply. This can be readily obtained from your water company free from charge. Once this report is passed to the manufacturer of the purification systems, they then profess that the unit they will supply is 'tailored for your own particular water supply’.

I do not exactly 'buy' this form of advertising in the slightest as mains water supplies to all homes can, and do vary - and often on a daily basis.

If you really do wish to add one of these units to your pond water supply I would suggest you consider a simple mains water de-chlorification unit, which is far cheaper to purchase.

I have run Koi ponds at my home for some 39 years without ever employing any form of mains water purification. Instead of this I use, as do many other professionals and enthusiasts, a ‘constant trickle’ of incoming mains water on a permanent basis.

This trickle obviously is regulated to the volume of the pond in question. For example – in a system holding 3,500 gallons of water, I would recommend a ‘trickle’ of 150 gallons per day, which equates to 0.1 gallon per minute. If this is used as recommended there will be no need to ‘top-up’ after a filter discharge nor will the laborious tasks of ‘water changes’ ever need to arise.

Furthermore, it will not involve using any more water than normal.

On a further note, all the Koi breeders in Japan use significant water supplied directly from their water companies. I have yet to see any form of mains water purification used there but they always do use the ‘constant trickle’ without exception.

9 Once again, it is vital I point out here that, if your Koi are 'behaving abnormally', refusing food, hiding away from you or just generally 'not looking right' - it is usually either adverse water readings or parasites. In rare cases it can be a combination of both. In view of this I would check both water readings AND microscopic investigation before proceeding further.

POND WATER ADDITIVES

City water supplies can produce pond water that may well be perfect for human consumption by way of the treatment process but this does involve removing some minerals that are beneficial to our Koi.

For many years now I have found that a good way of replacing these minerals is by way of ‘Re-Fresh’, which was first introduced specifically for this purpose in Japan around 1983.

‘Re-Fresh’

This product was first introduced in Japan during 1983 to introduce natural minerals that are not found in city water. It is based around ‘montmorillionite clay’ that was first discovered in the town of Montmorillion, France and found to be particularly useful in lubricating machinery before lubricating oils were developed. Many other parts of the world have this as a natural resource and the clay that forms the field ponds in the Yamakoshi area of Niigata is another.

There have been many others who have attempted to copy the original by simply mining the clay and packaging it but it is the added minerals of the Re-Fresh make- up that makes it so much more effective than the clay alone.

For those interested, the initial dosage rate of this product is 750 grams per 880 gallons of pond water. The amount required should be mixed thoroughly by hand with a quantity of pond water to ensure no lumps are present when it takes on a feel of emulsion paint. Adding this to the pond turns the water into a brown mud, which can last up to two days before clearing.

Weekly top-up doses can then be made by estimating the amount of water thrown away during the week by normal filter discharge and then calculating the required amount of Re-Fresh required to replace that amount of new water.

10

A MICROSCOPE AND RELATED ACCESSORIES

In my own opinion, this is probably the most important accessory for today’s Koi keeper as several microscopic parasites (which cannot possibly be seen and identified by the naked eye) that sometimes infest our Koi can lead to further serious bacterial problems which can, if accurate treatment is not forthcoming, lead to many fatalities or, at the best, irreparable scar tissue.

As to the most commonly detected microscopic parasites that can infect our Koi, here are the main offenders.

White Spot Skin Fluke Gill Fluke Costia Chilodonella Trichodina

Extremely good second- hand microscopes can be found at very reasonable prices from various sources - especially second-hand ones from hospitals. For Koi applications a microscope that can handle up to 400X is excellent although most parasites can be easily detected at much lower magnifications.

I would always recommend you purchase one with a moving sub- stage; this makes operation far easier.

It does not take long to be able to use a microscope properly and it soon becomes second nature to most Koi enthusiasts.

11 ANTI-PARASITE MEDICATIONS AND ACCESSORIES

From time to time we will need to add a medication to our pond after specific parasites have been detected, usually by microscopic investigation. The CORRECT medication and EXACT dosage amount is added to eradicate the particular parasite in question.

Be under no misapprehension, if parasite/parasites are detected in your pond, they will not disappear as if by magic. Instead they will just continue to multiply rapidly. If these are ignored, this will almost certainly lead to more serious secondary bacterial infections and possibly Koi losses.

Again, they will not ‘go away’ – they will only continue to multiply if nothing is done.

If your system is a very good home for your Koi, then it is also a 'Ten Star luxury hotel' for microscopic parasites that can survive and thrive, even in nature, in just about the worst-ever water parameters possible!

PLEASE BE VERY AWARE THAT YOUR KOI POND HAS NOTHING WHATSOEVER TO DO WITH 'NATURE' IN ANY WAY, SHAPE OR FORM – DISCOUNT ALL ADVICE TO THE CONTRARY.

INSTEAD YOUR KOI POND IS PURELY A VERY LARGE 'MAN-MADE OUTDOOR AQUARIUM' AND MAN CAN NEVER, EVER POSSIBLY 'DUPLICATE NATURE'.

Only the Great One above makes natural ponds but never over a very short period of time, instead natural ponds have to 'evolve' over decades. The stocking rates of fish in natural bodies of water are positively minute when compared to even a modestly stocked Koi pond.

Parasites hatching in a natural pond have less than 24 hours in order to find a ‘host’ (fish) to attach themselves to and thus feed, this is why nature produces thousands upon thousands of these simply because 99.99999% will fail to find a host and thus die of starvation.

As said above, this is NOT the case in an enclosed, re-circulating Koi pond.

Also be very wary of the ‘expert Koi keeper’ who openly professes to all that -

'You will never catch ME adding any chemicals to MY pond'.

In my MANY personal experiences of this statement, it is usually followed later by a total wipeout or heavy loss of all Koi stocks owned by these people.

12 Many Koi outlets offer some of these medications for sale in liquid form, which I would recommend you avoid at all costs.

(As an example here, the specific exact dosage rate for zinc-free Malachite Green crystals (used together with formalin to eradicate white spot, chilodonella and epistylis in a body of water) is a minute 0.25g to an enormous 220 UK gallons (1 ton) of pond water.)

In view of this I often wonder as to how accurate the calculations are when made up by the manufacturer or 'mixer' when preparing this liquid.

Please do also bear in mind that all anti-parasite chemicals can be ineffective if 'under dosed' by even 10%. In the same way they can be lethal if 'overdosed' by the same percentage.

As to the 'Proprietary Cure-Alls' offered for sale at some Koi centres and most garden centres - avoid these like the plague!

The only thing going for the many makes and many ranges of these items are the pretty colourful boxes in which they are displayed and usually are sold by weekend staff at these outlets.

These preparations are targeted at the millions of pond keepers who do not even have the faintest idea of the exact amount of water within their ponds.

The manufacturers of these so called 'medicines' do not want to receive endless complaints from buyers that their product has 'killed their Koi' - in view of this I would think that it is not even harmful to 'drink' these preparations for all the good they profess - however, I do not suggest you drink these liquids - instead just avoid buying them. In my opinion they should be banned from sale under 'The Sale of Goods Act'.

Please be aware once again - these 'medicines' NEVER work at all in producing the required results blatantly advertised on the packaging.

Please bear this very important fact in mind.

Correct anti-parasite chemicals and medications for successful eradication of a SPECIFIC parasite are only added at the VERY correct rate to the volume of the actual body of water in question and, most importantly: -

PLEASE NOTE - THERE IS NO SINGLE 'MAGIC MEDICINE' AVAILABLE ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD THAT WILL ERADICATE ALL SPECIES OF PARASITE IN YOUR POND WITHOUT ALSO ERADICATING MOST OF YOUR KOI!

13 In view of the above I would suggest you try and obtain stocks of the items listed below but only after you have first purchased the next item below. Take great care in storing these items in a cool damp-free area well away from children and pets.

Another note to bear in mind is that our learned UK Authorities have intimated that it is illegal to use all the chemicals described below in our Koi ponds without a vital ‘product license’.

The main reason they give for this is that when the chemicals have been used in our ponds and some ‘contaminated’ waste-water will be discharged into our eco- system, it will then wreak disastrous effects on the fish and wildlife within the water and presumably the world will end soon afterwards?

• Please bear in mind that even the largest of our enclosed Koi our ponds are little more than ‘tiny puddles’ in the overall shape of things.

• Next bear in mind that few chemical dosages are effective after around six hours of being introduced to our ponds, after they have been weakened to uselessness by the filter system and the atmosphere.

• Next consider the minute amount of chemicals used specifically for our own puddles; then bear in mind that these have been employed safely on our own precious Koi at exact rates and full dosages for our pond volumes and we can then begin to see just how dangerous these long-exhausted chemicals in incredibly minute traces could possibly have on endless billions of gallons in our eco-system!

After all this has been considered carefully, then we have to consider which particular government official is standing next to your puddle with a legal document informing you of intended legal proceedings against you for your untold sins that will assist to ending our universe!

(The actual supplier only sells these raw materials in large quantities it may well be more economical that you share your purchases with other local Koi enthusiasts or local Koi club. a. A very accurate gram balance.

These are commonly used by jewellers and weigh items in amounts from 0.1 (ZERO POINT ONE) of a gram upwards. They are battery operated and specifically made for weighing very small items very accurately.

14 b. An accurate clear-plastic liquid measure and plastic funnel.

These are usually available from chemist-supply manufacturers quite cheaply. c. A quantity of Zinc-Free Malachite-Green crystals.

Try to obtain the very refined item, which is almost like a powder, unlike the one supplied in rougher crystal size.

If this is stored in an airtight container it will last indefinitely, always wear gloves and a facemask when handling this chemical. d. A quantity of 'Analar-Grade' Potassium Permanganate crystals.

This is supplied in very fine powder form as opposed to the crystal form that is available from most chemists and used for conditions such as athlete’s foot, eczema and similar skin disorders. Also store in an airtight container, use gloves and a facemask when handling this chemical. e. 'Analar-Grade' Formalin (solution of formaldehyde) liquid.

Purchase in an amount that will handle any usages required for six months or so and avoid using any of this chemical, which has small white precipitates visible. This chemical is extremely noxic, so breathing in fumes should be seriously avoided. Store in a cool airtight bottle and measure out by the containers detailed in item 'b' above. f. 'Flubenol' powder.

This is a fine white powder, which can usually be obtained readily from a Veterinarian and is used commonly as a 'de-wormer' for dogs, cats and other animals. g. 'Chloramine T'.

A fine white powder produced specifically as an ‘aquatic bleach’ which smells as such when mixed. Particularly useful when the pond water has a high bacteria count.

h. 'MS 222'

This is an anaesthetic powder made specifically for fish. I suggest that this should be employed above all others if possible whenever a Koi has to be anaesthetised for further inspection/treatment.

15 (By thoroughly dissolving one gram of MS 222 into five litres of pond water in a bowl (larger mixes can be made up to this mix ratio when larger Koi will require more water).

The Koi is placed in this mixture and carefully watched until it rolls over on its side completely after which the Koi can be lifted onto a damp towel for further treatment.

This works on a ‘time to strength basis’ as all other anaesthetics do; the stronger the mix – the quicker the action and vice-versa.

(I would strongly suggest that you first learn this method from a more experienced Koi enthusiast before you attempt to do it yourself. After that, it all becomes second nature.) i. 'Masoten' powder for fish or 'Dipterex' powder for plants (both work).

These are now 'banned substances' in the UK as they are 'organophosphates' but are very useful in eradicating argulus and leeches, which are parasites that can easily be detected by the naked eye.

Argulus is far more common in planted garden goldfish ponds as opposed to proper Koi ponds.

Short of having these substances to hand there is no real medication that will eliminate these parasites from your pond and the only other alternative is to individually anaesthetise each Koi and laboriously remove each parasite by tweezers.

However, this procedure will only rid the Koi of the adult parasite and not any un- hatched eggs that may also be present on the Koi or in the system.

Dosage rate for either of these products in order to eradicate argulus and leeches is 0.5grams to one ton of water. j. Cooking Salt

(As opposed to table salt, which contains unwanted additives to make it more 'free- flowing' for the table.)

This is always a good 'stand-by' and can be added to your pond at varying rates for a variety of purposes such as lengthy cold water periods, nitrite effect reduction and to promote safe healing of bacterial damages once correct treatment has been carried out.

16 The maximum recommended dosage of cooking salt to pond water is 5 kilos per ton (220 UK gallons) but 2 - 3 kilos is the general amount required. This is usually available in 25 kilo sacks.

Please also be very aware, cooking salt does NOT destroy ANY parasites at all but it does have excellent anti-septic properties. Salt baths are also used for the treatment of bed sores etc.

However, I have often found that adding cooking salt at 3 kilos per ton to the pond is an extremely effective method of eradicating blanket weed.

It should be pointed out that the salinity produced by adding cooking salt to the pond will remain in the pond until it is removed by water changes. In view of this it is wise to own a salinity meter to be able to check the levels accurately.

Salinity meter

I have never experienced the other chemicals listed below to be of any use whatsoever in the parasitic or bacterial treatment of Koi and pond water.

Methylene Blue.

Copper Sulphate.

Acriflavine.

Proflavin-Hemisulphate.

Vircon, Vircon S or any of its derivatives.

As an aside here, despite the ultra-modern world we live in, some of the most effective anti-parasite treatments still vital today were first trialled and employed by very early 'Koi keepers' - namely the monks and other carp farmers many, many years ago.

……………………………………………………………………………………………………….

17 DOSAGE RATES OF THE RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS MENTIONED EARLIER FOR USE AS POND DOSAGES AS A TOTAL ‘POND TREATMENT’ FOR CARP AND KOI ONLY.

• These are to be used with normal filtration running and it is not necessary to switch off U/V units during the treatment.

• It is of vital importance that the exact volume of the system is known before dosing as a 10% under-dose can be ineffective and a 10% overdose can be dangerous.

• Please take great care; most of these chemicals are potentially hazardous if not stored and handled correctly. Always use gloves and a facemask when handling them and keep well away from children and pets.

Please note, ‘One Ton’ of water is –

220 UK gallons. or 264 USA gallons. or 1,000 litres. or One cubic meter.

IT IS ABSOLUTELY VITAL WE KNOW THE EXACT VOLUMES OF WATER WITHIN A TOTAL SYSTEM BEFORE ADDING THESE CHEMICALS.

• Malachite Green powder at 0.25g per ton together with Formalin at 15mls per ton for eradication of White Spot, Epistylis and Chilodonella parasites ONLY.

Measure out the required quantity of Malachite Green crystals and dissolve them in a plastic bucket of pond water by stirring with a stick before emptying the liquid around the pond surface. Then measure out the required amount of formalin and do the same.

• Potassium Permanganate powder at 1.5g per ton for the eradication of Costia and Trichodina parasites ONLY.

(Mix required amount of powder thoroughly with an amount of hot water and then stir well before adding this to the pond.)

There are many who use a quantity of hydrogen peroxide to remove the brown stain made to the pond water by potassium permanganate after it has no further effectiveness as such. I have never used this method and find that the pond will 18 return to being crystal clear within three days or so after being removed by the filter system.

• Flubenol powder at the rate of 1.0g per 90 UK gallons pond water for the eradication of both skin and gill flukes ONLY - (Dactylogyrus and Gyrodactylus).

Weigh the exact amount of Flubenol and put this in a vinyl bag containing pond water. Shake the bag thoroughly as this powder does not dissolve readily. After this empty all contents from the bag into the pond.

(The ‘perfect way’ to ensure the Flubenol powder is dissolved completely is to measure the amount of powder required and add a small amount of acetone to it. After this, add it to a bucket of pond water and then distribute it evenly around the pond.)

Incidentally, many companies who sell the ready-made preparations also advise more than one application is required perhaps with a view to selling more product.

More often than not the first treatment will suffice, however there are times when a further treatment is needed but the only way to determine this is by microscopic examination some three days after the first treatment.

In view of this, it is ALWAYS wise to check the effectiveness of every treatment some three days later by microscope – if no parasites are found then there is no need to re- dose.

ANTIBIOTIC INJECTION DETAILS

(Please note, this information is for the more experienced Koi enthusiast and I recommend that only those who are experienced in this field undertake the injections detailed.)

Injections should only be administered after the Koi to be injected has been completely anaesthetised beforehand.

Once the correct techniques have become mastered it becomes very easy to do this yourself afterwards.

INTRODUCTION

On rare occasions we may have to administer antibiotic injection/s to a particular Koi suffering from a bacterial infection (damaged fins, lesions and ulcerations) in order to hasten healing and recovery. 19

The choices of actual antibiotics we can use are quite extensive and I list below details of the more popular ones that are commonly used in the treatment of Nishikigoi today.

Antibiotics for animal use are strictly regulated by the UK Veterinary authorities and usually have to be purchased from a Veterinarian although, in recent years, they can be found to be available freely on the Internet.

It is very important to note however, that the actual choice of antibiotic used is correct for the treatment of the Koi in question as incorrect choices of antibiotic are little more than useless in effecting a perfect cure.

The only real and accurate way to select the correct antibiotic is to carefully take a ‘swab’ of the actual wound by cotton bud and take it, or send it to a specialist animal laboratory for analysis after first placing it in the appropriate container prior to despatch.

This process takes time at the laboratory, as the technicians first need to produce cultures from the swab submitted. Once they have the culture they can determine which antibiotic/s will be successful (gram positive) in effecting a cure together with those who would have nil effect (gram negative) on the bacteria in question.

Sadly, in many instances the infection can rapidly deteriorate before laboratory results are completed and returned which makes a cure more difficult or ‘too late’ to be effective.

Perhaps a suitable topical treatment applied to the wound will reduce further infection to the area whilst waiting for the final laboratory report.

I would always recommend that a suitable all-round 'topical dressing' is used to apply directly to bacterial or physical damages before, during and after injections have been carried out.

An iodine based product made in the UK known as 'IO-SAL' is recommended here.

However, I have witnessed many correct usage of antibiotic treatments, given at specified intervals, cure many serious bacterial damages with total and complete success over the many years I have been involved in this part of the hobby.

Ideal point and angle of injection for Koi, into the tail muscle. 20

(I have yet to have success by injecting into the ball joint of the pectoral fin and nor have I had success in injecting directly into the gut cavity.)

The reader will also note that details I have given below relate to the general size (in length) of the Koi and, as you know, this is not an exact rule of thumb as the actual weight is far more exact. Female Koi invariably weigh more than male Koi and some Koi can be fat whilst others are thin. With this in mind each Koi to be injected should be mentally assessed beforehand and the actual injection dosage increased or decreased accordingly.

Finally, in order to get best possible results from the correct choice of antibiotic, minimum water temperatures should be no lower than 16.5C and 20C is ideal.

a. ‘BAYTRIL’

This is broad-spectrum product widely used by veterinarians on many forms of animals ranging from reptiles, birds, dogs, cats, horses and farm animals. It has also been used very successfully on Koi. This injectible liquid is supplied in varying strengths but I recommend that the 10% form is used for treatment of Nishikigoi.

From experience, a course of Baytril 10% injections should be carried out by three separate injections each three days apart.

Dosage rates are as follows:-

SIZE OF KOI (in inches) DOSAGE AMOUNT (millilitres/ccs) 8” to 9” 0.1ml. 10” 0.3ml. 14” 0.6ml. 18” 0.9ml. 22” 1.0ml. 26” 1.25ml. 30” 1.75ml. 34” 2.00ml.

…………………………………………………………………………………………………………

b. ‘AZACTAM’

Preparation details – Inject 5ml. sterile saline water (0.9%) ito the 500mg. vial of Azactam which gives a strength of 100mg. per millilitre. Once the solution has been 21 prepared it must be kept cool and used in full within 14 days – after this it should be discarded.

Again, from experience, three separate injections should be carried out by three separate injections each three days apart.

Dosage rates are as follows:-

SIZE OF KOI (in inches) DOSAGE AMOUNT (millilitres/ccs) 4” to 6” 0.1ml. 6” to 9” 0.2ml. 10” to 13” 0.4ml. 14” to 17” 0.6ml. 18” to 21” 0.8ml. 22” to 26” 1.0ml. Over 26” 1.5ml. maximim dose.

……………………………………………………………………………………………………….

c. ‘AMIKACIN’

Store the 100mg. strength bottle at room temperature, which has a shelf-life of one year. This is generally a ‘one-off single’ injection although three injections over three days have not been proven to be harmful.

Dosage rates as follows:-

SIZE OF KOI (in inches) DOSAGE AMOUNT (millilitres/ccs) 6” 0.1ml. 10” 0.3ml. 14” 0.5ml. 18” 0.7ml. 22” 1.0ml. 26” 1.15ml. 30” 2.0ml. 34” 3.0ml.

Note:- If using Amikacin at 500mg. strength only use one fifth of the above injection dosages and this is why I recommend to use the 100mg. preparation so dosages can be measured more accurately. ……………………………………………………………………………………………………… d. ‘GENTAMYCIN’

22 This antibiotic, also produced for human treatment, was one of the first I used back in the 1970’s together with ‘Chloramphenicol’ and ‘Neomycin Sulphate’.

Gentamycin has stood the test of time since then and is still used widely today in the treatment of Nishikigoi. I recommend that the 80mg. to 2ml. vials are purchased and not the paediatric preparation, which is 80% weaker and involves almost impossible accuracy when attempting to measure the exact amounts required.

Use three separate injections, each three days apart.

Preparation – Break the top of the vial and add 2.0ml. of distilled water to the powder and then shake to dissolve.

Dosage rates as follows:-

SIZE OF KOI (in inches) DOSAGE RATE (millilitres/ccs) 8” to 9” 0.05ml. 9” to 10” 0.06ml. 10” to 11” 0.1ml. 12” 0.15ml. 13” 0.25ml. 14” to 15” 0.3ml. 16” to 18” 0.6ml. 19” to 20” 0.8ml. 21” to 24” 1.2ml. 26” 2.0ml. 28” 3.0ml.

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Finally, on the subject of antibiotics that are often used to treat Nishikigoi.

• There is not one single antibiotic in the world, which is made specifically for either Nishikigoi or any cyprinid species.

• In fact I know of no antibiotic made specifically for any species of fish at all.

• The vast majority are made for human treatment and many now need other regular replacements after the ones that did produce good results no longer do so.

The antibiotics detailed above have, however, been widely used for Nishikigoi treatment for many years and the specified dosage rates have been learned by experience rather than by any accurate and scientific medical instructions.

23 At the time of writing many Koi professionals have found the expensive antibiotic ‘Fortum’ to be the most effective wide-spectrum one to use above all the others mentioned above.

SHORT TERM BATHS AND ‘DIPS’ a. Cooking Salt.

This can be used as a short-term bath to repair minor gill congestion and also if a Koi looks generally 'unhappy' whilst no external signs are visibly apparent and water readings are good. Do ensure that the salt is totally dissolved before commencing the bath.

220 grams (8 ounces) per one UK gallon for 30 seconds.

OR

80 grams (3 ounces) per one UK gallon for 3 to 4 minutes - this can be extended to 10 minutes duration with heavy aeration in the case of severe gill congestion. During this time, if the Koi turns on its side, remove from bath and return to fresh pond water.

OR

1 kilo per 11 UK gallons for up to 13 minutes. (This is my own choice).

………………………………………………………………………………………………………. b. Potassium Permanganate Powder

1. One gram to one litre of water for 30 seconds.

OR

2. One gram to five litres of water for three minutes.

OR

3. 1.25grams to five litres water for 2 minutes and 30 seconds.

OR

4. Ten grams to 220 UK gallons of water for 90 minutes together with good aeration.

24 4 is particularly effective in eradicating very stubborn infestations of Costia and/or Trichodina.

………………………………………………………………………………………………….

c. 'Chloramine T'

This is a form of 'aquatic bleach', which is sometimes effective as a pond disinfectant.

For a short-term bath use one gram per three UK gallons for three minutes.

OR

To medicate a pond dosage with a high bacterial count - a 'dip-slide' is useful here,

However there are hardness/softness issues on the dosage rates of this aquatic bleach – please consult this table here for accuracy in your water parameters.

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INVASIVE SURGERY on KOI

A word regarding these matters, in view of the real fact that thousands upon thousands of Koi have passed through my hands over the years, I have experienced the following symptoms below on the approximate number of times shown. a. Infectious dropsy (pinecone disease) - 30 occasions. b. Swim bladder problems - 20 occasions. c. Egg compaction/decay in females - 25 occasions. d. Koi taking in air at pond surface and expelling it when swimming back down - 200 occasions, with no sinister results - certainly not swim bladder problems but much more to do with water make-up. e. One side only of a Koi becomes distended - 5 occasions.

25 f. Reports of unsuitable 'blood make-up' and possible internal damage caused - one occasion.

With the exception of d. - all these symptoms really require invasive surgery in order to bring about a cure.

This should really be carried out by those with veterinary qualifications specifically relating to fish anatomy as opposed to an expert fishmonger!

Yes, there are wonderful diagrams available of the perfect positions and properties of all the internal organs of a carp to study in advance but this disappears to insignificance when the scalpel reveals the actual truth together with the blood, tissue and other fluids beneath.

As mentioned in an earlier page I have only once come across such individuals and these are based in Yamakoshi. They are also surrounded with a mass of potential customers - namely the Koi breeders themselves and they can work wonders, as I have witnessed on several occasions.

Regretfully they may just as well be on a different planet if overseas Koi enthusiasts require their expertise.

In recent years, I have come across several statements, mostly from the USA, where it is said that 'extensive research' is being carried out into effecting cures for dropsy; swim bladder problems and egg compaction in Koi.

In view of the fact that FAR more Koi have passed through my hands than theirs over the past 30 years and also in view of the tiny number of occasions I have witnessed these symptoms during that period, I then wonder exactly where they get the number of 'patients' required to be able to carry out this 'extensive research' upon?

It is then that I wonder as to who is funding all of this and where their vital, experienced (and expensive) fish veterinarians come from?

It is then that I wonder if there is any profit to be made and then what use is it to Koi enthusiasts in other lands?

Please believe me, after many years of experiencing these very rare events occurring in my Koi career, we must confess that we are all completely alone here.

Yes, we could, after significant time and money has been spent, get an x-ray produced of our sick Koi, but is there anyone on hand able to tell us if it's good news or otherwise?

26 If we need to release trapped air in order to allow a deflated swim bladder to re- inflate we must make an incision - exactly where on the Koi's body the trapped air is located is another matter altogether.

If we open up the body of a female Koi with compacted eggs or egg decay and release the unwanted eggs by hand or remove the putrid brown liquid by other means, what happens next when we discover that the problem has produced internal bacterial problems to the surrounding organs?

The very same question arises when internally inspecting a Koi with pinecone disease or 'dropsy' (another word for 'poorly').

As to being able to accurately diagnose 'blood disorders'? - I'll leave that to the reader.

Whilst there are individuals all over the world who could become true experts in these matters and attain the necessary qualifications to do so, just who is there to pay their salaries at the end of it all?

If a fish farmer finds one of his brood stock with a problem, he'll dispose of it and select from a dozen or more others rather than pay for expert advice and a 'cure' that may never be possible.

If we take this to Koi keeping, in view of the rare times these matters happen, the keeper has to decide if the expense and risk of failure can be accepted.

However, all is not completely lost because where there's life there's hope. In all of the cases I have witnessed and been called to attend, I have always made an attempt to effect a cure but without the use of invasive surgery if it can be avoided. 27

My failure rate is around 85% but 15% made a total recovery and the problem never recurred in later years. Yes, it was all 'belt and braces' plus a crossing of fingers but some came through, I am also very sure that, had these attempts not have been made, the Koi in question would have been lost.

As to how they were carried out, rare swim bladder problems came to be cured by the old remedy of placing the Koi in very shallow water with ample aeration. The reduction of water pressure on the Koi's body simply allowed the bladder to re-inflate to normal. For dropsy and compacted/decaying eggs I used a wide spectrum antibiotic injection fearing the worst - to my delight the problem was cured never to return.

On one occasion I had to attend to a Koi with one side of the body distended, I removed a line of scales, punctured the flesh with a scalpel and a rush of air exited the body. The flesh immediately returned to normal, a couple of stitches were applied with a broad-spectrum antibiotic and one week later the Koi was perfect.

Yes, we are totally alone in these matters but simple attempts to produce a cure can sometimes be possible!

28 Finally, it is important that I point out very clearly to the reader that I have NO official qualifications in any of these areas. In view of this I must NOT be considered as an ‘expert’ in these matters.

Once again, the vast majority of my teachings originated from the Koi breeders of Japan and I have used these same methods in practical applications for countless times on my own stocks for many years since then.

However, I do feel that it is of importance I pass this information to others to give these others another choice of ways to tackle the problems.

I have no doubt that, from time to time, better solutions will come along but at the time of writing this information is as up to the minute as is possible from my viewpoint.

Peter Waddington 2011.