Diamonds in the Cuff GENEVA — Ladylike Looks Are Back in Fashion, So It Isn’T Surprising That Watch Designers Are Going for Elegance

PRADA’S $42 MILLION CHINA PLAN/2 GYMBOREE GROWS UP/3 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • May 3, 2004 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear

Diamonds In the Cuff GENEVA — Ladylike looks are back in fashion, so it isn’t surprising that watch designers are going for elegance. Distinctive, streamlined designs — featuring, say, a cuff or a scarf instead of a standard band — were all the rage at Baselworld and the Salon International de la Haute Horlogorie. Here, two examples: Piaget’s watch in gold, diamonds and leather and Movado’s in stainless steel and silk. For more on the shows, see pages 8 and 10.

Expanding Net: Neiman Marcus Online Sales to Top $200M By Holly Haber the e-commerce and catalogue neimanmarcus.com. The division IRVING, Tex. — Neiman Marcus Group division of Neiman Marcus, which also operates two additional Web

Y CARMEN BORGONOVO is weaving a bigger Web, driven by expects to see online sales this and catalogue businesses — neimanmarcus.com. year pass $200 million, compared Chef’s Catalog of cooking tools The four-year-old neiman- with $150 million in 2003. The bulk and the Horchow Collection of lush marcus.com is part of NM Direct, of that growth will come from See Neiman’s, Page 20 PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER; STYLED B DAVID PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 3, 2004 WWDMONDAY Prada’s Expanding in China Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear GENERAL By Amanda Kaiser FASHION: Not since the height of the Swinging Sixties has legwear been as MILAN — Prada last week inau- 6 important to fashion as it is now. gurated its Hong Kong flagship Neimanmarcus.com is the driving force behind NM Direct, the e-commerce and said it plans to roll out an- 1 and catalogue division of Neiman Marcus Group. Here’s an update. other 13 stores in China by the end of next year, investing more Los Angeles retailers said sales appeared to be rebounding this weekend than $41.94 million, or 35 mil- 23 after Thursday’s threat advisory of a terrorist attack at a mall there. lion euros, in the country. EYE: Sharing diet tips and looking kissable at benefits…Braving The Italian luxury group said 4 breakdancing…Swinging through Milan and London. the Hong Kong store, a two-level space measuring about 9,700 Classified Advertisements ...... 22-23 square feet, will be the compa- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is ny’s second-largest unit in Asia [email protected], using the individual’s name. after its Tokyo Epicenter concept store, opened in June 2003. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. “Hong Kong is no longer just VOLUME 187, NO. 92. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional the international platform for issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three the Far East; it increasingly rep- additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; resents a launch pad into the Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Chinese market,” Miuccia Prada Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior said in a statement. “It creates Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at the trends and acts as a show- additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration case for this market.” No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. The Prada Elsewhere, Prada denied a The Prada POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR local press report that it’s aim- flagshipflagship inin Hong Kong. DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is ing for its long-awaited initial Hong Kong. required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new public offering in October. Prada subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, said in a press release that al- wide. It said revenue from spring-summer collection the please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild though “it can confirm the China grew 80 percent in the year before. magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully strong improvement of its finan- first four months of the year, Architect Roberto Baciocchi screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. cial figures, there are no plans while that from Hong Kong designed the Hong Kong store, WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED for a public listing in 2004.” grew 25 percent. Prada said it located in the Alexandra House MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND Prada has said it wants to go expects to double its revenues Building on the corner of Ice TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED public before June 2005, when in China this year compared to House Street and Charter Road. TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE it must repay $838.81 million, 2003 figures. It features a black glass facade, ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. or 700 million euros, worth of The Asia-Pacific region gen- a black marble suspended stair- convertible bonds. The compa- erates about 10 percent of case and Prada’s signature pale ny accumulated debt through Prada’s consolidated revenue, green walls. MONDAY: Intimate Apparel and Accessories Market past acquisitions of labels like which came to $1.63 billion, or The ground floor is dedicated Week, New York. Helmut Lang, Jil Sander and 1.36 billion euros, in 2003. Prada to women’s ready-to-wear, shoes, Mercedes Australian Fashion Week, Sydney Church’s. said sales of the spring/summer bags and accessories, while the (through Saturday). Prada said that China is its collection are up 20 percent this second floor features men’s wear Citymeals-On-Wheels 20th Annual Fashion/Beauty fastest-growing market world- year compared with those of the and the Prada Sport line. Industry Benefit, New York. AAFA American Image Awards, New York.

WEDNESDAY: Reebok annual meeting, Canton, Mass. Sara Lee Taps Barnes, Chaden Burberry Said THURSDAY: Major retailers report April same-store sales. Madison Avenue BID’s “Where Fashion Meets Art” Naming Blake exhibition, New York. For Key Executive Positions Avon annual meeting, New York By Dan Burrows sible for Sara Lee’s global mar- As President FRIDAY: The Labor Department releases the April em- keting and sales efforts. He will ployment report. NEW YORK — Sara Lee Corp. report to Barnes once she LONDON — Brian Blake, part COMING THIS WEEK Mido eyewear show, Milan (through Sunday). promoted Lee Chaden to chief comes on board, and will gradu- of Domenico De Sole’s turn- executive officer of its branded ally cede the marketing and around team at Gucci, is ex- apparel business, succeeding sales functions to her. pected to join Burberry next Cary McMillan, who has re- Chaden joined Sara Lee in month as its president world- signed from the company’s 1991 and was named ceo of Sara wide, according to industry In Brief board and is leaving Sara Lee, Lee Intimates in 1994. Before sources. the company said Sunday. his current position, he was ceo Blake, formerly an execu- Additionally, the firm appoint- of the company’s European tive vice president at Gucci ● CHECK THE FINE PRINT: Pinault-Printemps-Redoute and the ed Brenda Barnes to the position branded apparel business from Group and president and Italian securities commission may have had a failure to communi- of president and chief operating 1999 to May 2003. chief executive officer of cate. PPR said late last week that it received a notice from market officer. She will begin in her new “Lee not only brings a strong Boucheron, was among the regulator Consob to suspend its tender offer to Gucci sharehold- role July 1, reporting to Sara Lee strategic vision to Sara Lee top managers to leave Gucci ers who are residents of Italy, citing a violation of that country’s Corp.’s chairman, president and Branded Apparel, but he also has after the news that the con- securities laws. PPR said in a statement that “as indicated in its ceo, C. Steven McMillan, no rela- a proven track record of building tracts of creative director Tom tender offer document, PPR states, and Consob has been so in- tion to Cary. Steven McMillan successful apparel businesses Ford and ceo De Sole would formed, that its offer was never intended to be directed at Italian has served as operations chief around the world,” said McMillan not be renewed. residents.” PPR added that tenders made by Gucci shareholders for several years, but did not in a statement. “Further, Lee was In his post at Burberry, he who reside in Italy will not be accepted, at that it is sorting out the hold that title. He will relinquish the primary architect behind our will replace Tom O’Neill, who matter with Consob. At the conclusion Thursday of its monthlong the post of president to Barnes brand segmentation strategy, is leaving in July. An announce- tender offer, PPR owned 99.23 percent of Gucci's shares. and remain chairman and ceo. Sara Lee’s long-term strategy for ment of Blake’s appointment Chaden, who begins in his delivering stronger growth. is expected this week, and ● SAUDI ARABIA NEARS WTO ENTRY: The 10-year bid of Saudi new post today, currently is an Clearly, Lee possesses the leader- he is expected to join the Arabia to join the World Trade Organization entered its final executive vice president respon- ship skills and operational excel- company later this month. phase last week, after the oil-rich kingdom completed market- lence to run Sara Lee’s largest A Burberry spokeswoman access talks with countries including China and India. Its re- line of business.” declined to comment Friday. maining hurdles to becoming the WTO’s 148th member are talks With $6.4 billion in sales, the Blake joined Gucci in with the U.S. and Panama. Its imports last year rose 5 percent branded apparel business ac- 1987, holding various posi- to $34.1 billion. Saudi officials are due in Washington this week counted for 35 percent of Sara tions, including president of for further discussions with U.S. negotiators. Lee’s $18.29 billion in fiscal Gucci America and presi- 2003 revenues. dent and ceo of the Gucci di- ● IT HOLDING SELLS KNIT HOUSE: In line with its strategy to Barnes was a 22-year veteran vision. In February 2003, he focus on its money-making brands, IT Holding said Friday it sold of PepsiCo, culminating in her replaced Massimo Macchi as its knit brand Gentryportofino to the Italian knitwear company promotion to ceo of PepsiCola Boucheron’s ceo. Elizabeth Mambrini Srl for $5 million, or 4.2 million euros at North America, a position she As reported, O’Neill is current exchange. This announcement follows IT Holding’s sale held from 1996 to 1998. Since leaving Burberry to become last week of Romeo Gigli. IT Holding, listed on the Milan stock then, she served as interim oper- ceo of Harry Winston Inc., and exchange, now controls Gianfranco Ferré, Malo, Exté and ations chief for Starwood Resorts president of Aber Diamond Ittierre, which produces and distributes jeans and young lines and currently sits on the boards Corp., which controls Winston. for Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and Roberto Cavalli. of Avon Products Inc. and Sears, Roebuck & Co., among others. WWD, MONDAY, MAY 3, 2004 3 Wal-Mart Begins Using Gymboree’s Maternal Instinct RFID Tracking Device By David Moin NEW YORK — Wal-Mart Stores and into the store stockrooms, NEW YORK — Is it a stretch for Inc. has started using radio fre- but not onto the selling floor. The Gymboree, a brand established quency identification, or RFID, retailer isn’t using the technology in children’s wear and acces- tags to automatically track mer- to monitor customer purchases, sories, to sell women’s apparel? chandise in its Dallas area stores, and it’s unlikely that many cus- Not according to its chairman testing the technology in anticipa- tomers will go home with RFID and chief executive, Lisa Harper — tion of a larger rollout in January. tags in their shopping bags. Wal- and some retail analysts back her Wal-Mart, the world’s largest Mart’s RFID readers are in- up. Analysts note that Gymboree retailer, installed RFID readers at stalled at loading-dock doors, is launching its women’s stores its distribution center in Sanger, stockroom doors, and in back under a different name, Janeville, Tex., as well as seven additional hallways. Only the cases that the and entering a niche where stores in the area. Eight manufac- products come in, as well as the there’s room for more players. turers, including Unilever and palettes in which the cases are The teen and contemporary Procter & Gamble, are deliver- shipped, are tagged. markets are saturated with retail ing 21 products with RFID tags, In most cases, the palettes and players, but not the misses realm, including cat food, toothpaste, cases — along with the RFID tags said Harper. “A lot of whole- and peanuts. — are discarded before the prod- salers, like Realities and Hilfiger, Privacy advocates say RFID ucts reach the selling floor. see the opportunity, but I believe tags in retail products could po- Printers and scanners from a specialty store can give a better tentially be misused by police Hewlett-Packard are the excep- representation. Women have to and others to identify and moni- tion, because their product pack- shop around quite a bit to get tor individuals and their pur- aging also serves as the case. what they want. No one really chases without their knowledge. Wal-Mart said the Hewlett- provides a lifestyle approach.” The devices have practical limi- Packard items will be marked The first three Janeville stores tations, however. They contain with an EPCglobal symbol. EPC- opened in April, at Westfield only product information and global is the RFID standards or- Shoppingtown Valley Fair in cannot be easily read from more ganization. In addition, the re- Santa Clara, Calif.; Bellevue than 10 feet away tailer plans to post signs with the Square in Bellevue, Wash., and “We can certainly understand symbol at the appropriate shelf on Burlingame Avenue in Burlin- and appreciate consumer con- or aisle location. Customers may game, Calif. About 10 stores in cern about privacy,” Linda Dill- choose to keep or remove the the 3,000-square-foot range are man, Wal-Mart’s chief informa- RFID tags after purchase, Wal- seen opening by yearend in tion officer, said in a press re- Mart said. Connecticut, Arizona, Ohio, lease announcing the test. “That The tests will help Wal-Mart Virginia, Florida and Southern is why we want our customers to learn more about how the equip- California, in malls, street loca- know that RFID tags will not ment works, a company spokes- tions and in some high-end contain nor collect any addition- man said. Once RFID is widely lifestyle centers. Janeville will al data about consumers. In fact, implemented at Wal-Mart stores, undergo a 12- to 18-month test pe- in the foreseeable future, there it will help to better manage in- riod before a decision is made won’t even be any RFID readers ventory so the store doesn’t run whether to roll out the concept. on our stores’ main floors.” out of merchandise, especially on The stores target Baby Boomer Wal-Mart is tracking products the weekends, the company said. and somewhat younger women, through its distribution center — Cate T. Corcoran 30 to 50 years old, and will compete against Chico’s, J. Jill, Tal- bots, Ann Taylor, Loft and brands Janeville stores have the look of a seaside cottage. Here, the Santa Clara unit. sold at department stores, including Liz Claiborne, Jones, H Hil- tured and novelty-oriented, and go from children’s to women’s,” figer, Lauren by Ralph Lauren, more modern and contemporary said Ezra Dabah, chairman and Fashion Scoops INC., Charter Club, Realities (by compared with Talbots. ceo of The Children’s Place. “So Liz Claiborne) and Ideology (a “Janeville could be a fun, stim- much of the fashion, styles and BALLY HO: A source close to Bally said HITTING THE BOOKS: Tom Ford may May Co. private label). ulating environment,” said Jenni- items are miniature versions the house has tapped Johnny Coca to have celluloid dreams, but he might The stores, Harper said, “de- fer Black, president of Jennifer and the whole process is basi- oversee its men’s and women’s make it into print sooner. Word has it pict a sense of place, a modern Black & Associates. “The store cally the same, from sourcing to accessories lines and women’s shoes. the designer’s illustrious career at the country or seaside cottage, a size sounds great, easy to shop, delivery to the store.” Coca, who will start at Bally in mid- creative helm of Gucci will be getting Hamptons look. It’s very resi- and if there are not too many While OshKosh B’Gosh, an- May, hails from Celine, where he the coffee table treatment by Rizzoli, dential, rather than plateglass stockkeeping units but enough other well-known children’s designs accessories and oversees with a major tome due out some time windows and bright lights. It’s different types of things and kind brand, has just begun selling licenses. He is also an alum of Louis later this year. Details are still being something a bit more approach- of a boutique feel, it could be suc- adult apparel, The Children’s Vuitton and Christian Dior. Coca finalized, but are said to include able and lifestyle-oriented, and cessful. There’s always room for Place is steering clear. “We just replaces Melissa Maish, Bally’s design contributions by Vogue’s Anna Wintour less mall-oriented.” Stores have stores that are fun and create a love the zero-to-10 category [of director for women’s accessories who and Vanity Fair’s Graydon Carter. front porches, antique tables unique niche. But it all depends ages],” Dabah said. “We are great left the luxury goods company after used as fixtures, hardwood and on the merchandise, and the fit believers in focus and we have the presentation of the fall-winter SWEET CHARITY: Rather than cement floors. specs, especially when you are much room for growth.” He sees 2004-2005 collection in Milan. Luca launching “The Right Address,” the Harper said she wants Jane- aiming at that Baby Boomer cus- his chain eventually doubling in Ragonese will stay on as chief novel she wrote with Carrie Karasyov, ville to deliver “an experience tomer. They need to fit that cus- size to $1.5 billion to $1.6 billion designer for men’s and women’s at the Chanel store, Jill Kargman, that’s as valuable as the product.” tomer and need to be standard- with 1,000 stores from the cur- ready-to-wear and men’s shoes. daughter of Arie and Coco Kopelman, The store emphasizes outfits, ized. You don’t want to have a rent $800 million in volume, off held the shindig at the Club Monaco as opposed to items, because Bebe or American Eagle cut for a almost 700 stores. GOOD SPORTS: The Shriver clan — flagship on 57th Street. It’s not the the consumer Janeville targets Baby Boomer.” Gymboree operates about 540 Eunice Kennedy Shriver and her first location that comes to mind after is pressed for time and has diffi- “The world is over-stored so Gymboree stores in the U.S., 30 husband Sargent “Sarge” Shriver, reading Karasyov and Kargman’s tale culty finding outfits already put any launch is immediately met in Canada and 23 in Europe and Timothy, Bobby, Anthony and First of the benefit circuit, but there’s an together, Harper noted. by suspicion, but there is always sees 15 to 20 percent domestic Lady of California Maria, descended explanation: “I was at a 30th birthday Outfits at Janeville often mix room for a new focused special- square footage growth, Harper on Giorgio Armani’s Rodeo Drive party at Soho House and I was saying contemporary or casual pieces ist,” said one retail analyst, who said. The corporation operates boutique Thursday night for a party how people always think what I’m with traditional ones, such as a requested anonymity. “In addi- 33 Janie and Jack stores, selling hosted by Details and Olympic gold wearing is Chanel, but it’s actually classic cotton spandex pant, tion, the customer that Janeville more detailed clothing, acces- medalist Carl Lewis to benefit from Club Monaco,” Kargman said. starting at $68, with a novelty is pursuing is the most [under- sories and gifts for babies sized Special Olympics, founded by Mrs. “Someone tapped me on the shoulder tank top, ranging from $18 to served] of all. It’s the largest de- preemie to 3T, and 150 to 200 are Kennedy Shriver in 1968. While the and it was Caroline Dougherty, a $50, and a canvas jacket lined mographic with the most dispos- seen operating in five to seven entire retinue wore neutral-hued publicist at Club Monaco. I told her with a tiny floral print, at $88. able income, but you hear com- years. The operations of the divi- Armani, it was Sarge who caused what I did and she asked me if she “If you took the basics from plaints from women all the time sions, including finance, real es- the biggest fashion frisson in an Old could throw me a book party.” Nordstrom and Banana Republic that there is not enough out tate and stores, are centralized, Guard navy blazer and buttercup Marjorie Raein and Dylan Lauren and the novelty looks from An- there that suits their needs.” although the design and mer- yellow trousers paired not with the stopped by to get their books signed thropologie and mixed that all up The analyst had some reserva- chandising teams are separate. standard loafers, but black and gold and Kargman’s godmother, Teresa into outfit dressing, that’s where tions about the name, Janeville, “We keep the brands focused Reebok trainers. “Am I hip? I don’t Heinz Kerry, popped in to say hello we are, and we’re cut for a slight- which is actually a town in Wis- and very differentiated but we know,” he growled, “but have you and played with Jodi Della Femina’s ly rounder shape, more like consin. “It seems silly,” he said. can leverage the underlying op- ever seen an 89-year-old man do daughter, Annabel. Nordstrom, with consistent quali- “There’s already Jane the maga- erations,” Harper said. That this?” he asked as he lifted his leg Kargman’s father proudly played ty and fit,” Harper explained. zine (which, like, WWD is a publi- seems to be the case. Despite in- to a 45-degree angle, leaned over host. “I like to say that I’m the Father Harper said Janeville’s price cation of Advance Magazine vestments in the start-ups, and bent his knee to better examine of the Book now,” said Kopelman, points are comparable to Chico’s, Group) and Jane the fragrance. Gymboree had an 18 percent in- his shoes. “Oh, he is the most adding that he doesn’t expect the book but the look is more structured But maybe it will catch on. Hol- crease in earnings last year, to fashionable one of us,” joked his he’s writing — subject unrevealed — to and slightly younger in appeal. lister did and it was also named $25.7 million. Sales rose 6 per- wife. “Don’t let him fool you.” be nearly as amusing as his daughter’s. She also said compared with Ann after a town in California.” cent to $566.3 million, and gained Taylor, Janeville is more struc- “I don’t think it’s so tough to 1 percent on a comp-store basis. 4 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 3, 2004

Naomi EuroTrip Campbell KISS THE GIRLS NEW YORK — “I Italy’s scantily clad starlets, fashion de- always wanted to be signers and star soccer players stepped a ballerina,” out on a drizzly Milan night last week to enthused Muffie eye® attend the opening performance of Potter Aston, who Cirque du Soleil’s “Saltimbanco.” stopped just short of It was the first time the Cirque has a twirl at a lunch at swung its trapezes in Italy, and the tent was filled Saks Fifth Avenue with such ticket holders as Giorgio Armani; Eva and last Wednesday that Roberto Cavalli; Barbara Berlusconi, the daughter of featured a fashion Italy’s prime minister; Alessandro Dell’Acqua; Lavinia show by Carolina and Beatrice Borromeo; Carla Sozzani; Flavio Herrera and Briatore, and Naomi Campbell, who oohed and aahed benefited the over the acrobatic feats. After the performance, American Ballet guests made their way to a Cavalli-hosted party at an Theatre’s Costume old factory to honor Guy Laliberté, the founder of Fund. “But I had to Cirque du Soleil. settle for a tutu Grace Hightower with Dell’Acqua raved about the bungee jumping and instead.” The lithe Muffie Potter Aston the somersaulting clowns and decided the show dancers in inin CarolinaCarolina Herrera.Herrera. should be renamed “Fellini’s Circus,” while Cavalli attendance didn’t admitted he’d already seen the show once in Las stop Grace Hightower, Vegas. “It’s so chic,” he declared. “I love the colors, Jamee and Samantha the costumes, the glamour and the name — it’s fresh Gregory and Phyllis and strong, like my style.” George from digging In London at his new store on Bruton Street, into their artichoke Matthew Williamson turned down the lights, pumped salads. Besides, up the music and put Kelis in the window to perform Aston said she has a Carolina Herrera “Milkshake” for Yasmin Le Bon, Leah Wood and few diet secrets up Rachael Weisz. Tiffany Limos, Erin O’Connor, Jasmine her sleeve. “I always Guinness and Bay Garnett came to drink Coca-Cola drink a glass of skim from bottles customized by Williamson, munch on milk before I go to a mini-hamburgers and wonder where all the clothes party,” Aston had gone. Indeed, the fluorescent racks were bare. explained. “And if “It’s an incentive for everyone to come back and I’m hungry when I shop,” explained Williamson. get home I’ll have The night before, in nearby Berkeley Square, another glass.” Morton’s — once a louche party den — celebrated its The requested comeback as a members’ club and restaurant with attire was “kissable” Francesca Versace, Tim Jefferies, Ta mara Beckwith at the Nina Ricci- and Jerry O’Connell. sponsored benefit for “I used to party, we all did,” said the new owner, The Society of Marlon Abela. “But now we've grown up. The new Memorial Sloan- Morton’s is going to be quiet enough to have a conver- Kettering the next Francesca Versace Yasmin Le Bon sation. There’s not going to be a lot of jumping around Francesca Versace Yasmin Le Bon evening at the the dance floor and relying on body language.” Mandarin Oriental Anne Grauso in Roopal Patel in Hotel, and for Lars Nina Ricci with Nina Ricci at the Nilsson, that meant Lars Nilsson. Mandarin Oriental. “colorful” gowns in yellow, peach and orange. Though Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos said she heeded the invitation by wearing lip gloss, other guests took the suggestion very seriously. “Kissable means you better look damn good if I’m going to kiss you,” said Alexandra Lind-Rose with gusto. By night’s end, she was seen kissing no one. Besides casino tables, Anne Grauso and her fellow co-chairs, including Eugenie Niven and Hilary Dick, organized a kissing booth where attendees could smooch an Elite model. The ladies took to the floor to sell kisses at five dollars a pop. “Who wants to buy a kiss?” Grauso asked her table. “I’m still paying for your kisses,” her husband, Mario, retorted. T BY STEVE EICHNER T BY Dance Fever NEW YORK — The prospect of break dancing would Roberto and Eva Cavalli Roberto and Eva Cavalli strike fear in the hearts of most 40-year-old women, but not Blanca Li. The Spanish-born dancer, choreographer, actress Kelis and and director, who is based in Paris, can do applejax, Matthew leg hops and handsprings with the best of them, as Williamsonilliamson she demonstrates in her film, “Le Défi” (“The Dance Challenge”). Released in Europe to great success last year, the film will be introduced to American au- diences tonight at the Tribeca Film Festival. In it, Li plays a divorced mother whose son leaves Blanca Li home to pursue his dream of winning a break-dancing competition. When she discovers him practicing with his team, she challenges him in the competition and trades her designer wardrobe for the uniform of the ’hood: sweats, caps and Adidas. (For some scenes, Laurent Mercier, a former designer at Balmain, dressed Li in Christian Dior, Giorgio Armani and Sybilla.) “Break dancing is so physical, but I was a gymnast when I was very young,” says Li in a phone interview. “There are a lot of things that are essentially gymnastics in break dancing. Besides, I’m prepared to learn anything.” Soon after arriving in Paris in 1993, Li began organizing cabaret evenings in the Pigalle district. They came to be known as “Les Fiestas de Blanca Li” and attracted the likes of Madonna, Vanessa Paradis and Lenny Kravitz. “I’m a little clown,” she confides. “I love to make people laugh.” Li’s repertoire ranges from freestyle street moves to flamenco to contemporary dance — she studied in the New York studios of Martha Graham early in her career. She first tapped the hip-hop world in 2001 for “Macadam, Macadam,” a live show that toured Europe for three years and featured break-dancers, roller skaters and BMX acrobats. (Li also has a serious side: She has choreographed for the Paris Opera Garneir, as well as the New York Metropolitan.) Ever the multitasker, Li has even modeled for Paco Rabanne and Martin Margiela. “I Rachel Weisz love to have beautiful costumes for my dance pieces,” she explains. “I’m very good Barbara Berlusconi inin MatthewMatthew Alessa Fabiani friends with Jean Paul Gaultier and we’ve talked about doing something together soon.” and Giorgio Valaguzza Williamson.illiamson. and Nicolò Oddi — Sharon Edelson MORTON’S AND WILLIAMSON BY TIM JENKINS; CIRQUE DU SOLEIL BY EMMANUELE FARDELLA; ABT LUNCH BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; NINA RICCI EVEN BY ABT LUNCH EMMANUELE FARDELLA; TIM JENKINS; CIRQUE DU SOLEIL BY AND WILLIAMSON BY MORTON’S Synergy Redefined. MENS, WOMENS, KIDS— Together at last at the Las Vegas Convention Center. In an industry where niche shows scatter your attention from New York to Atlanta to LA, THIS IS HUGE This is the entire fashion industry brought TOGETHER FOR YOU for one reason— BUSINESS More resources than any other show or mart. More lines than any rep. ALL UNDER ONE ROOF All the trends. All the brands. All the buyers. One building. One city. One MAGIC Marketplace. Why limit your success? Get down to business with COMPLETE EFFICIENCY August 30-September 2, 2004

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Levante’s nylon and spandex

fishnet legging. ▼ Cabaret Cool Cabaret Cabaret Cool Cabaret NEW YORK — You don’t have to be a headliner at the Kit-Kat Club, the nightspot in Bob Fosse’s 1972 film, “Cabaret,” to embrace the divine decadence of fall’s newest hosiery. As legwear market week begins today, designers are going for corset-inspired graphics, overscaled fishnets and attention-grabbing embellishments. Sally Bowles would have loved it. Emilio Cavallini’s polyamide and spandex buckle-print Jonathan tights, worn with Rachel Aston’s Pally’s Modal and spandex nylon and halter top, Danskin’s cotton spandex and spandex panties and open-back David & Young’s bowler hat. tights. WWD, MONDAY, MAY 3, 2004 7

Nylon and Lycra Hue’s microfiber screen-printed and nylon stockings tights by Look with a rhinestone From London. and velvet buckle. TISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY TIMOTHY PRIANO; STYLED BY TISTS BY TISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY TIMOTHY PRIANO; STYLED BY TISTS BY

Ozone Design’s graphic cotton, polyamide and elasthane over- the-knee sock.

Nylon and spandex fishnet hose from KB2 by K. Bell. MODEL PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER; STILL LIFES BY JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: KAYLEE QUILLING/SUPREME; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY KAREN PANOCH AT AR AT KAREN PANOCH QUILLING/SUPREME; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: KAYLEE TURNER; STILL LIFES BY DAVID MODEL PHOTOS BY MODEL PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER; STILL LIFES BY JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: KAYLEE QUILLING/SUPREME; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY KAREN PANOCH AT AR AT KAREN PANOCH QUILLING/SUPREME; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: KAYLEE TURNER; STILL LIFES BY DAVID MODEL PHOTOS BY

Nylon and spandex fishnets by Gina Group.

Legale’s wool and cotton legwarmer with lacing. 8 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 3, 2004

Fine Jewelry Report Good Timing for Luxe Watches

Cartier’s Tank Chinoise with By Marc Karimzadeh watches. Among the key trends: diamonds. ● Cocktail Hour: While large GENEVA — Luxury is making a comeback, and and oversize watches continue to nowhere does the sigh of relief seem as, well, be dominant, many firms mountainous as in Switzerland, the world’s introduced petite evening watchmaking hub. watches reminiscent of those Retailers and watchmakers that attended last worn in the Forties. These month’s Baselworld: The Watch & Jewelry designs were often presented Show, in Basel, and the Salon International with thin synthetic satin straps de la Haute Horlogorie here were or diamond-set bracelets. brimming with confidence after Jaeger-LeCoultre offered a several challenging seasons. small rectangular case And that’s news in itself. Joaillerie Etrier watch After all, the 2003 shows adorned with baguette-cut were marred by the diamonds on a satin strap, economic slowdown, the while Corum’s Debutante war in Iraq, terrorism and watch was available on SARS. Last year’s outbreak stackable, interchangeable of the epidemic in the Far citrine, blue topaz and pink East prompted the Swiss sapphire bands. Others government to bar exhibitors launched smaller versions of existing from China, Singapore, Hong watch styles, including David Yurman, Kong and Vietnam, and 40 percent which unveiled a scaled-down model of its of U.S. retailers canceled their trips best-selling Madison watch. to Switzerland. “In the jeweled watches, it was back to This year, they were back in force: small watches but still with much presence,” said Baselworld’s attendance was up 38.8 Richard D. Eiseman, president and ceo of Dallas- percent from 2003 and 8.3 percent based jewelry retailer Eiseman Jewels. “But that won’t from 2002 to 89,350 visitors, while mean oversize watches are going away. They were SIHH had more than 10,000 offering women more of an alternative.” visitors, which was a return to the ● Get Strappy: This year, many companies toyed with Patek Philippe’s level of 2002 and up 10 percent their strap looks, offering stingray, white crocodile skin and diamond-set from 2003, according to show leather cuffs. For instance, Zenith launched its Baby Star on Twenty-4 watch on a satin strap. organizers. a leather cuff and Gucci introduced a watch available in a “Business in January beige or black logo fabric cuff or a beige leather cuff. through March has been at record levels with double-digit growth,” Stanislas de Quercize, president and chief executive officer of Cartier in the U.S., said. “Stores The more exotic the watch, have low inventory levels and they are here to buy.” Bulgari’s ceo Francesco Trapani noted: “We were the“ more desire and demand happy last year with the results from Basel, and this year was even more positive, with especially good news there is. for watches...We are looking for growth everywhere, but especially [from] emerging markets such as China.” ”— Mark Udell, London Jewelers Andrew Block, Tourneau’s senior vice president of marketing, said: “The mood in Basel and Geneva was ● Pearl Jam: Mother-of-pearl made a comeback very upbeat, and there was more energy this year for watch faces. While the look has been around for compared to last year with SARS and the war. The decades, it was more widely used at the moderate attitude about the product and the rest of the selling end than in expensive watches. Now, the mother-of- year was very positive.” pearl face is often dyed or engraved — Chopard, for Like much of the luxury sector, the Rolex’s Cosmograph instance, unveiled its Happy Sport with an engraved Swiss watch industry had its challenges Daytona. horseshoe motif. last year, but in the past three months, According to retailers, highlights at the shows included the momentum has picked up. According to Cartier’s new Santos Demoiselle and the women’s diamond the Federation of the Swiss Watch version of the Roadster; Patek Philippe’s diamond-set Twenty-4 Industry, watch exports are growing at on a satin strap; Rolex’s Cosmograph Daytona on a leopard strap record levels. The organization with brown diamonds; Chanel’s J12 with pink sapphires and reported that in March, total Swiss alligator strap; Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Gyrotourbillon, Joaillerie watch exports increased by 15.9 Rivière and Joaillerie Etrier; Zenith’s Baby Star on a cuff and Star percent, its highest leap since Love with visible movement through a heart-like opening on the February 2001 and the best March face; Piaget’s rectangular diamond Limelight on a cuff; Baume & performance ever recorded. Mercier’s Hamptons Spirit on a white strap; Bedat & Co.’s new No. 8 Finished watch exports grew 16.8 with a round dial; Audemars Piguet’s diamond jewelry pieces, and percent to $621.8 million. For the Breguet’s Queen of Naples. period from January through March, Other notable introductions included Bulgari’s Ergon, which the U.S. represented the largest export features an ergonomic case design and an market at $299.1 million, up by 14.4 integrated bracelet. It is Bejeweled Chopard percent against last year. In comparison, available in white gold watches. Hong Kong, the world’s second-largest with a gray dial and market for Swiss watch exports, was down a black alligator 2.9 percent to $266.1 million, while third- strap. Movado, place Japan declined 9.3 percent to $155.6 meanwhile, introduced a million for the same period. Dollar figures were watch on an converted from Swiss francs at the current interchangeable silk exchange rate. scarf strap in honor of The weakness of the U.S. dollar has prompted Mikhail Baryshnikov, many Swiss watch companies to increase their who stars in the suggested retail prices by 6 to 8 percent for fall, but brand’s spring ads. retailers said they don’t anticipate a drop in demand. In U.S. watch fact, several retailers said they expect quite the opposite. retailers praised the “I think the weakness of the dollar has benefited the U.S. trends, and said the retailer,” said Richard Horn, president at San Francisco-based women’s watch jeweler Shreve & Co. “You always used to be able to go to Europe business is in a and save 25 percent by purchasing a watch in Switzerland, but healthier state than it obviously that’s not the case anymore. The prices are more even has been in a long time. worldwide, and I think it’s kept our customers buying at home where “We have had a good they know and feel comfortable with their local jeweler.” run with high-end There were many trends to choose from at Baselworld and SIHH, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s complicated watches like and retailers praised the fact there was a growing focus on women’s Joaillerie Rivière. Continued on page 10 © 2004 Cartier 2004 -800-cartier 1 www.cartier.com - www.cartier.com

Déclaration® 10 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 3, 2004

Fine Jewelry High Time for Timepieces Chanel’s J12 on a pink strap.

Zenith’s Baby Star watch on a cuff.

the overall diamond assortment at Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston and Audemars Piguet. “The strong brands continue to do a good job at tweaking their existing lines, such as Rolex,” said John Green, president and ceo of West Hartford, Conn.-based jeweler Lux, Bond & Green. “People are doing their homework, and coming out with something they understand will meet the market demand.” Retailers lauded the increased offerings for women, particularly those in fashion colors and adorned with diamonds. “I saw a lot of colors that coincide with jewelry trends, like pinks and spring pastel tones, which is great because women are becoming more educated on what you can and can’t wear with a watch or jewelry,” said Aida Alvarez, vice president of merchandising at David Yurman’s jewelry chain Mayors Jewelers. “Women want to be Madison watches. able to tell time, but use it as an accessory.” This year, watchmakers offered more watch Continued from page 8 complications, including Tag Heuer, which launched IWC, Jaeger- its Monaco V4 Concept watch featuring a mechanical LeCoultre, Patek Philippe watch movement with 13 drive belts rather than the and Vacheron Constantin. expected pinions. Women’s watches, too, Panerai and Cartier have feature more chronographs and been very strong, and that tourbillon movements, and several trend is continuing,” Block at watchmakers introduced “skeleton” 16-unit Tourneau said. “In designs where the movement is fashion watches, Michele visible on the watch face. Retailers has always done well and generally welcomed more watch Tissot has been strong. complications for women, though Brands at the middle price the consensus on the market point had a bit of a resurgence this readiness is disparate. year with Concord, Corum and “Women are getting more Baume & Mercier.” educated in complications,” Ruediger Albers, U.S. president said Barbara Simonian, vice of Wempe, which has 18 units president at two-door watch worldwide including one on retailer Westime in Los Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue, noted: Angeles. “There are more “The watch business is on the professional women, and I upswing. The economy is picking up, would say 40 percent of people received a bonus [this year] women ask for complications, instead of a pink slip — which hurt Harry when two years ago it was business last year — and this year, Winston’s still under 10 percent.” people are more confident and Van Cleef & Arpels’ Avenue C Korosh Soltani, vice treating themselves to fine Hawaii watch. Chronograph. president at David Orgell wristwatches.” Beverly Hills, however, Mark Udell, chief executive officer at five-unit London Jewelers noted: “Overall, I saw with headquarters in Manhasset, N.Y., said: “The watch business is more complicated watches exceptional. We are finding that the higher-end watches sell. The for ladies, but I don’t think more exotic the watch, the more desire and demand there is.” the market is ready for it In that vein, Udell pointed to such introductions as Rolex’s safari- yet. There is a very unique inspired Cosmograph Daytona, Patek Philippe’s Twenty-4 on a satin strap, client for ladies’ complicated Chanel’s white J-12 with a pink-and-white strap and Cartier’s diamond- Bulgari’s new Ergon. watches, but diamond watches are adorned Roadster. He also praised Chopard’s Haute Joaillerie pieces, and much easier to sell.”

Real Customers. Real Jewelry.

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Legwear Report Wolford’s New President to Spruce Up Stores NEW YORK — Wolford AG has found a bright spot in the time in his new role, said Wolford’s top priority would outlets in Glasgow, Scotland; Florence, Italy, and challenging U.S. hosiery market, selling bright-colored be to solidify sales. Atlanta, plus 40 partner-owned boutiques. In the last styles and fishnets last fall that helped boost “My first day of my visit here, I see more year, the company opened 20 partner-owned stores sales by 18 percent in the first nine months of potential as far as the U.S. is concerned,” worldwide. the fiscal year that ended Friday. he said. Earnings for the nine months increased to $2 mil- “The business driver as far as the U.S. is Global revenues for the first nine months lion, or 1.71 million euros, from $770,000, or 650,000 concerned is clearly that hosiery and other of the fiscal year ended April 30 were euros, a year ago. Cost cutting, such as reducing operat- accessories have been very much in fashion $108.2 million, or 90.6 million euros at cur- ing expenses and staff costs, aided the firm in regain- for the last one and a half years,” said rent exchange, down 8.3 percent from $118 ing its profits. Holger Dahmen, Wolford’s chairman and million, or 98.8 million euros, a year ago. Dahmen, the former president of Hamilton chief executive officer, who replaced Fritz Among the factors for the decline were end- International Ltd., a watch company owned by the Hummer in January. Hummer had been in of-season sales that did not meet expecta- Swatch Group, was general manager of Swatch’s U.S. the post for 10 years. tions and a lack of January orders, accord- division from 1998 to 2000. He said with lower-cost op- The U.S. subsidiary accounts for 16 per- Holger Dahmen ing to the company. erations in place, creativity and design would provide cent of Wolford’s total sales, and is the TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY Almost half the loss was because of ex- momentum for the brand. Bregenz, Austria-based luxury hosiery brand’s second- change rate movements, while about one-quarter was “Besides the production and the quality that comes largest division. Dahmen, visiting the U.S. for the first the result of the brand shutting three Wolford-owned with it, creativity these days needs to be captured,’’ he said. “It’s very difficult to get, and you have to look out for getting fresh blood over and over again.” Dahmen plans to analyze EMPOWER the brand’s image in terms of product awareness, and in doing that, intends to improve YOUR SUNGLASS the look of Wolford’s point of sale starting with its stores. He said the sleek white and black interiors of U.S. bou- DEPARTMENT... tiques are up to standard, “but I think overall, on a worldwide basis, I guess we could look a little better. With the new Ray-Ban image campaign - “But that is one of those details that will not make or break [the company], it’s a com- designed to boost your Ray-Ban sales potential. bination [of things],” he said. — Emily Holt LEGBEAT ROCA SOCKS: Rapper Jay-Z’s Rocawear has produced its first sock collection for spring. New York-based Gina Hosiery acquired the license in November, which also includes a line of men’s and women’s casual sandals, and began shipping to stores this RB 3179 RB 2129 RB 3183 RB 4037 RB 4044 spring. “We’re especially pleased with the ladies’ business because Rocawear is primarily a mens’ brand,” Raymond Dayan, vice We've created a powerful RAY-BAN 2004 PRINT PLAN president of sales and marketing new Ray-Ban ad campaign... at Gina Hosiery, said, also noting MEN’S APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUGUST # ADS the brand loyalty the company maintains. • Reinforcing the image and CARGO RB 3179 1 FHM RB 3179 RB 4044 2 After an official launch at

legend of Ray-Ban. GQ RB 3179 RB 4037 RB 3179 3 MAGIC in February, Dayan reported strong sellers were pom- • Targeted to millions of MAXIM RB 3179 RB 4044 RB 3179 3 STUFF RB 3179 RB 4044 RB 3179 3 pom athletic socks with pink toes

consumers nationwide. MEN’S JOURNAL RB 3179 RB 4044 2 and heel and the “no show” sock • Translating to more potential (14) with green Lurex logo detailing. WOMEN’S For fall, there are plans to add

customers for you! COSMO RB 2129 RB 3183 RB 2129 3 new fashion silhouettes and

IN-STYLE RB 2129 RB 3183 RB 2129 3 patterns to the sock collection and produce a small segment of Link to this exciting LUCKY RB 2129 RB 3183 2 MARIE CLAIRE RB 2129 RB 3183 RB 2129 3 trend-driven styles, like fishnets opportunity by... (11) and knee-highs. The company

ENTERTAINMENT hopes to generate $10 million in

• Stocking up now on the hottest EW RB 2129 RB 3179 RB 3183 RB 4037 RB 2129 RB 3179 6 bookings this year. Ray-Ban sunglasses. HOLLYWOOD LIFE RB 2129 RB 3179 RB 3183 RB 4037 (Sept. Issue) 4 PEOPLE RB 2129 RB 3183 RB 2129 RB 3183 RB 2129 5 IRISH POWER: There are yoga

• Displaying the new PREMIERE RB 3179 RB 3183 2 pants, yoga tops, yoga sweats countercards and P.O.P. ROLLING STONE RB 2129 RB 3179 RB 3183 RB 4037 4 and yoga bags, and now there are (21) yoga socks. materials featuring imagery BILLBOARDS: LARGE SIZE BILLBOARDS, PHONE KIOSKS AND BUS SHELTERS IN MAJOR METROPOLITAN MARKETS Total 46 True, Kathy Ireland’s new designed to build on the PowerSox may be officially for Pilates but they work just as well power and legend of the brand. for downward dog. In a partnership with Moretz Sports, the former model will launch the collection, Contact your account representative now for more information. which also includes a treaded glove, in more than 3,400 midtier sports and footwear retailers nationwide. Designed to prevent slipping and guard against bacteria, the socks are the latest addition to Ireland’s brand, which also 420 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10018 • 212-302-1200 • www.luxottica.com • www.ray-ban.com includes apparel, jewelry and home collections. Ireland has designed socks with Moretz since 1993. WWD, MONDAY, MAY 3, 2004 13

Accessories Report

MINTAGE Yellow s teenage friends, Marisa Stubin and Erika Milstein would raid the secondhand clothing leather Aand vintage recycling factory Stubin’s family owned in Brooklyn to search for the latest and blue trends. “Like when [old] Levi’s were in fashion, or Adidas [tracksuits],” Milstein said, “we’d ultrasuede always think, ‘Okay, let’s go there and get what’s cool.’ ” bags. Vintage A decade later, they’ve found they can make a living out of it. Last spring, they launched Mintage, a collection of vintage handbags with new crystal, pearl and rhinestone handles. The pair finds antique bags at the Stubin’s factory, where the family reworks vintage clothing and resells it to boutiques, as well as at flea markets around the country. Prior to partnering with Stubin, Milstein designed jewelry, which led to the concept of recreating the bag handles to double as necklaces. The worn-out or outdated straps on the bags they found are replaced with crystal and pearls that are interchangeable — and necklaces, too. Fever The bags wholesale from $25 to $50; coordinating handles range from $45 to $128. The very fact that the bags are antique is what makes them unique for today’s market, Vintage has long been a source of inspiration for Stubin said. “A lot of the bags [from the Fifties] come with a change purse and a mirror, accessories makers. But sometimes slapping unique things that modern bags these days don’t have.” antique fabric on a basic clutch frame just Their collection is carried at Galleria Neoponti in Englewood, N.J., Fini in Seattle and Infinity on Madison Avenue here. looks…old. Here are four new lines resurrecting vintage in a modern manner. By Emily Holt Continued on page 14

Earrings with antique gold vermeil coins from an 18th-century Turkoman headdress. JADA was sort of born into this,” “Iexplained jewelry designer Lauren Milne. “I come from a family of travelers and collectors.” Her grandfather was a jeweler who, with his wife, would travel the world and bring home trunk- loads of antiques from China and other Asian countries. Her mother designed woven handbags long before people started knocking off Bottega Veneta. Now, with her mom, Myrna Ratner, Milne is continuing the AND DISTRIBUTED BY - PRODUCED MOD. VE 2011 LUXOTTICA GROUP - 212-302-1200 legacy with their jewelry line, Jada. Together they scour markets from London to Istanbul for unique pieces with rich histories — like century-old Afghani prayer beads — that they can turn into necklaces. They also tap into Milne’s grandparents’ collection. “Things don’t embody the same richness and distinctiveness anymore,” the Seattle-based designer said. The collection features necklaces and earrings primarily in silver, gold and glass. Antiquities such as kingfisher feather pendants that were once Chinese hairpins, and gold coins that hung from Turkoman headdresses in the 18th century, are used as pendants for necklaces. Because of the diversity of the materials Milne and her mother find, retail prices run from $145 to $2,500. The pair have also come across a number of antique locks from China that were given as symbols of good luck to new Chinese mothers. But the locks are too big to trans- late to jewelry, Milne said, so they’d like to explore using them as clo- sures on a new line of handbags. “We just have this wonderful appre- ciation for history,” Milne re- marked. Jada is carried at Saks Fifth Avenue, Jennifer Kaufman in Los Angeles and Fragments in SoHo here. PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER DAVID PHOTOS BY 14 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 3, 2004

Accessories Vintage Fever

Continued from page 13

HEIRESS COLLECTION husband and son. She’s careful to choose items esigner Margaret Rowe believes there is one only in mint condition and ones that would like- Dway women dress today: “It’s a great T- ly appreciate in price. shirt and an elaborate necklace, and you’re “I never [break down] any pieces, because there,” she said. I would never want them to lose Leaving the T-shirts to their value,” she said. somebody else, Rowe As soon as she spies a has created a collec- piece, Rowe has visions tion of necklaces that of how to adapt it combine pendants for the modern con- from the Twenties sumer. “I will see it through the Sixties and think it would with modern materials Topaz and pearl pansy necklace. look great with like Swarovski crystal fresh-water pearls and semiprecious or with some of the Belt with compact and Bakelite bow. stones. colors they’re show- “I’ve always loved ing this season, vintage jewelry, but a lot maybe the char- JACQUELINE ROSE of it is not as wearable as coals, sage greens intage is often the ideal way to pay homage to the ones who so uniquely we’d like it to be, so I’ve taken and apricot.” Vwent before. Especially if that person is a lively, pink-Cadillac-driving vintage elements that I love and mod- Included in her collection, grandmother who vacationed in Rio. ernized them [with new materials].” which retails from $145 to $625, is a When she began her belt business two years ago, Jacqueline Hardy de- She noted that necklaces from the sterling silver and gold finish Coro cided to name it for her late grandmother, Rose. “She was just a very fash- Eisenhower era were much shorter, floral spray with a citrine and Czech ionable lady,” Hardy explained. because sweaters and blouses were crystal necklace. An enamel, pearl Her affinity for Rose, combined with her love of all things vintage, in- cut high around the neck. To adjust and rhinestone pansy pendant is at- spired Hardy’s year-old collection of leather belts with vintage brooches for today’s plunging necklines, she adds tached to a blue topaz, pearl and crys- and compacts for buckles. length to create a more modern 18-mil- tal necklace. The former advertising executive became a pro at scouring flea markets limeter necklace, which falls in the middle of For now, Rowe sells her year-old col- in her hometown of Atlanta for costume brooches, but when she came the chest. lection on her Web site, heiressvault.com, upon an antique compact, she knew she had hit upon something. “I just Rowe travels from her home in Arizona to but she is beginning to target specialty stores thought how cool would it be to have something that opens on a belt.” London and Paris and shops estates with her such as Fred Segal. After relining the compact in suede or vintage fabric, Hardy mounts it onto a buckle. Her finds vary from floral enamel and bright retro colors to Art Deco-style silverplated and goldplated cases. Depending on the rarity of the item, prices for the belts can range from $98 to $160 retail. Since first approaching local Atlanta boutiques, Hardy has picked up 15 to 20 accounts nationwide, including Selma and Syd on East 60th Street here. Next she’d like to branch out into handbags, “but I’ll wait until this side of the business gets more settled,” she said. WWD, MONDAY, MAY 3, 2004 15

Innerwear Report French Kitty’s whimsical pink wrap robe with fake-fur collar at The A Small Yet Potent Market Komar Co.

By Karyn Monget and firm up fall buys. most aggressive color launch we’ve ever So far, top ideas include: made. There will be five fashion colors NEW YORK — Pumped up over strong pre- ● Contemporary sleepwear with whim- and four basic shades.” He added the Mother’s Day business, manufacturers are sical sayings such as “High Maintenance” new bra style will feature a “very success- looking at May market as a slam dunk. and “I Love Me” by David and Goliath at ful ingredient” — microfiber stretch foam This week’s market may be smaller Richard Leeds International, and “Break- bra cups. than the March and August ones, which fast at Tiffany’s”-inspired lines like “How Reznik noted there are three addition- focus on entire fall and spring collec- Do I Look Darling?” and “Searching for al initiatives: a group of mesh and satin tions, but it will be jam-packed with fash- Love in the Big Town” by French Kitty at panties called Sexy Thongs by Maiden- ion items for Christmas and Valentine’s The Komar Co. form; a body briefer and cami with built- Day gift-giving. In some cases, vendors ● An expansion of pet motifs, includ- in stretch foam bra in sizes 38D to 42DD ing See Spot by Love Letters, a mascot by Flexees One Fabulous Body, and two Betty Boop white dog with a black circled eye. new minimizers by Lilyette — a tailored ● gets updated Novelty bustiers, corsets and garters style and a lace number. by Cinema Etoile at Movie Star Inc. Regarding the business outlook, Tom at Richard ● Leeds Sexy-looking bra introductions like Ward, ceo of Maidenform, observed, International. Maidenform’s Take the Plunge cleavage- “Business has been pretty good lately, enhancing, push-up bra in fashion colors, and our business has been strong. We’re and expanded styles of fashion bras and definitely optimistic about the rest of panties by Natori Black Label and Natori the year.” White Label at Dana-Co. Seth Morris, president of Carole JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY ● Spa-inspired looks such as Hanky Hochman Designs Inc., agreed. “Busi- “We’ve spent a great deal of time and Panky at the Spa, a product launch that ness has been better. We were very attention on new fabrics in wovens and can either be yogawear or everyday wear. pleased with last week’s business and we knits and detail that has a lot of bows, Assessing the anticipated action this hope this velocity continues.” beading and 3-D art,” said Leeds. “The week, Josie Natori, chief executive offi- Morris said the Hochman firm “show- art is simpler looking with sayings like cer of the Natori Co., said, “This is the ed holiday and Valentine’s Day in March ‘Easy to Love’ and ‘Tempt Me.’ ” Leeds first time we showed everything, includ- and consolidated everything in one added there will be a “unique” packaged ing Valentine’s Day, in March. But we’ll swoop. I’m sure we’ll see a number of gift called “Whisper Sweet Nothings,” a nonetheless be busy meeting with stores specialty stores, who tend to buy closer to thong in a clear plastic zip envelope with and talking about spring. Actually, we’re need, and we’ll be seeing major depart- a screen that says “A Message Can’t Be very happy. This allows us to gain more ment store buyers to make sure every- Wrong If You Say It with a Thong.” The time, which is great for our design staff.” thing we’ve done to date makes sense.” envelope comes with a mailer and the However, Natori noted there will be a Marcia Leeds, ceo of Richard Leeds purchaser can also write a personal note capsule preview of the licensed collec- International, said the French Jenny on the screen. tion of Natori Black Label and Natori sleepwear collection will feature a David Komar, executive vice presi- White Label foundations by Dana-Co. for “more contemporary fit” for holiday and dent of The Komar Co., said, “This may spring 2005. Valentine’s Day selling. Continued on page 16 Maurice Reznik, president of the Maiden- got a jump start on Valentine’s Day busi- form brand at Maiden- ness by showing key items in March and form Inc., said the will only do a recap of product this week. company will have a The Moore Company Textile Group In other cases, companies will concen- “major launch” this trate on expanded assortments of key week. items and groups, as well as a broader “We’re introducing palette of fashion colors. Take the Plunge, a sen- While gift items may be the main in- sual deep-plunge bra a We Bring Stretch gredient, manufacturers agree on one woman can wear every point: This market is an important day,” said Reznik. “It’s to Life! barometer of key trends for spring 2005 part of our One Fabu- as retailers strategize advertising and lous Fit portfolio of marketing campaigns, preview concepts bras, and it will be the It STRETCHES

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LALAME,Inc. 250 W. 39th St., New York, NY 10018 • Tel: 212.921.9770 • Fax: 212.302.4359 Intimates • Swimwear • Activewear • Sportswear • Surgical/Medical 16 WWD, MONDAY MAY 3, 2004

Innerwear Styles from the Rachel Ashwell Shabby Chic sleepwear collection. Fashion and Whimsy Fuel Gift-Giving Items

Continued from page 15 be a very small market, but this is the time we plan to show our ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s starring French Kitty’ program. It’s a co- branding effort between French Kitty and Viacom Consumer Products at Paramount. In the estate of Audrey Hepburn, it was noted that her image could not be used on panties. But everybody loves the movie. So Paramount’s idea was to substi- tute French Kitty in that role.” Komar said the line will feature a combination of mesh and stretch satin day- wear with heart motifs, clas- Hanky Panky’s aubergine and burnt sic and whimsical pajamas orange spa top and bottom for and robes, and a “sexy com- yogawear or everyday wear. ponent,” a V-string panty and cheeky pants. Packaging for Love Letters, said reaction PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY gift-giving will include a has been strong to a mascot “martini bikini” — a signa- dog group called Spot Says by ture black-and-pink box with Love Letters. The line of dual- two pairs of French Kitty purpose sleepwear features Shabby Chic Expands Beyond Home panties and a martini glass, sayings like “Save the Trees,” and a heart-shaped box with “Carpe Diem,” “Relax” and three pairs of panties with “Bite Me.” The line has been By Karyn Monget Boston, Seattle, Scottsdale, Ariz., Washington and sayings such as “Ooh la la.” expanded to include tote Florida by 2005, said Brian Dell, president and Komar added the licensed bags, baseball hats and two NEW YORK — Domestic diva Rachel Ashwell of chief executive officer of the Los Angeles-based line of Lucky Brand sleep- “doggie Ts” — mini T-shirts Shabby Chic is looking to carve out a multimedia home specialist. In addition to New York, there wear will feature a gambling for dogs with sayings “Beware product niche in the world of fashion. currently are retail stores in Chicago, as well as theme: a queen of hearts bor- of Big Attitude” and “Will Beg Poised to generate combined wholesale and re- four units in California — San Francisco, Malibu, der print on tank tops, a for Treats.” tail revenues of $15 million this year, the Santa Monica and Newport Beach. placed print of a hand of “Red, pink and green are British-born designer of 15-year-old First-year wholesale sales projec- cards on sleep shirts and pa- the top-booking colors,” said Rachel Ashwell Shabby Chic is ex- tion for the sleepwear is $1.3 mil- jama sets and a “Let It Ride” Catalano. panding her home accessories lion, Dell said. Suggested retail saying with a Lucky Brand Gail Epstein, president and and bedding empire to include a prices will start at $88 for sleep- four-leaf clover printed across design director of Hanky collection of upscale sleep- gowns and go to $135 for robes. the front of cheeky pants. Panky, said, “May is a minor wear. She’s also adding a num- Regarding Ashwell’s design “This happens to be a very market but it’s an important ber of licensees, including style, Dell said she has the important market for us,” said market for us because we’re ready-to-wear. ability to separate the look of Howard Radziminsky, senior introducing our velvets. We’re The sleepwear, which is her products from competi- vice president of sales at also starting to get some nice being introduced at the six tors, noting, “That’s why I Movie Star. “February is a response to our new Hanky Shabby Chic stores in the think there’s a large opportu- huge business for us, and it Panky at the Spa line. This col- U.S., is rendered in Ashwell’s nity in licensing.” represents about 35 percent of lection is a synergy of all my signature vintage-looking flo- Indeed, Ashwell’s designs our total spring business.” favorite items that have been ral prints of cotton batiste, cot- have a look that is different and Heart prints, clipped jacqu- designed and draped for a new ton poplin and cotton jersey; special, beginning with what she ards, marabou trim and novel- level of performance.” prints also are featured in her calls her “flea market finds.” ty corsets in red, pink and The spa line features Lycra adult and baby bedding collections. “As I was growing up as a child, my black are the key classifica- spandex blends with nylon “The sleepwear is a natural evolu- mom used to restore antique dolls and tions, he said. jacquard and cotton, cotton in- tion. You’re still in the bedroom, but Rachel Ashwell make them little dresses. That’s how I “Last year, baby dolls ac- terlock, French terry and a more than anything is [that] people was reared — making clothes that don’t counted for 80 percent of our moisture-wicking microfiber have a love of the prints,” said Ashwell at the go too far,” said Ashwell, a former commercial Valentine’s Day business. This Epstein calls “moisture Shabby Chic store on Prince Street here. and print stylist. The birth of her first child was year, it looks like bustiers and magic.” Color combinations in- She added that she plans to expand the line the inspiration for the initial design concept bear- garters will generate 40 to 50 clude paisley jacquard egg- with summer dresses that will feature such de- ing her name: slipcovers for furniture. She has percent of that business,” said plant and burnt orange and tails as dressmaker piping and ruffles. since penned four books and hosted a TV home Radziminsky. black and tan, as well as solid Plans are to expand distribution of the sleep- show on the E! channel. A fifth book, titled Richard Catalano, presi- coral and black. Sizes are S, M, wear to major stores, as well as six additional “Shabby Chic: Sumptuous Settings and Other dent of Los Angeles-based L and XL. Shabby Chic units slated to open in Atlanta, Lovely Things,” will be released this October.

Autumn/Winter Hat & Bag Collection 70 West 40th Street NYC Tel 877-Kaminski WWD, MONDAY, MAY 3, 2004 17 Under Koch, Invista Offers Strong Cosmetics Sales Boost Shiseido Earnings TOKYO — The Shiseido Group has reported Sales in the Americas were $416.4 million Marcel its highest-ever net income and sales on a (45.81 billion yen) or 7.3 percent of entire Frydman Triple Threat consolidated basis for the fiscal year ended sales, and increased 4.9 percent on a local March 31, 2004. currency basis. Sales in Europe, $619.1 mil- Net income was up 12.4 percent, to $250.4 lion (68.10 billion yen) or 10.9 percent of the By Scott Malone million (27.54 billion yen) while sales were total, inched up 0.3 percent. And the Asia NEW YORK — Koch Industries up 0.5 percent, to $5.68 bil- Oceania Region, $440.8 mil- Inc.’s new Invista unit, an $8.4 billion (624.25 billion yen). lion (48.49 billion yen) or 7.8 lion synthetic-fiber behemoth with However, income from op- percent of the total, in- brands such as Lycra, Coolmax, erations was down 20.3 per- BEAUTY BEAT creased 11.2 percent. Cordura and Stainmaster, starts cent to $355 million (39 bil- For the fiscal year end- business today after Koch com- lion yen). Dollar figures were converted from ing March 31, 2005, the group projects a 3.3 pleted its $4.2 billion acquisition the Japanese yen at current exchange rates. percent increase in net sales to $5.86 billion of the former DuPont textile sub- “Domestic sales slipped 1.1 percent, due to (645 billion yen), 36 percent down in operat- sidiary on Friday and merged it weak personal consumption and the effects of ing income to $227.3 million (25 billion yen) into its KoSa polyester division. a cool summer, as well as our inability to and 56 percent down in net income to $109.1 The new Invista has a reach launch new, high-impact products on the mar- million (12 billion yen). Overseas sales are ex- similar to DuPont’s textile unit in its ket in the first half,” said a spokesman for the pected to increase 7 percent to $1.57 billion Seventies boom era, when DuPont company. “Income from operations fell due (173 billion yen). lion, or 73.8 million euros. Also in France, was a key player in all three major to sluggish revenues, increased pension costs — Koji Hirano the firm claims to be the largest beauty in- synthetic fibers and had the market and higher expenses associated with our stitute, boasting 900 treatment rooms. clout to promote innovations like head-office reorganization. Net income During an analyst meeting held Thursday, Lycra spandex and Dacron poly- climbed, owing to an extraordinary gain due Del Earnings Plunge 84.3% company president Marcel Frydman reiterat- ester. DuPont whittled away its fiber to the return of a substantial portion of the NEW YORK — Moving manufacturing facili- ed that Marionnaud is not for sale, although units in the last decade, shedding employees’ pension fund, which was ap- ties from New York to North Carolina there’s nothing stopping a takeover bid from unprofitable operations and largely proved in the year under review.” turned out to be anything but beneficial for being launched on the publicly quoted firm. abandoning the polyester business. Despite the effects of the war in Iraq and Del Laboratories Inc., as problems getting Marionnaud stock closed virtually flat on Koch’s KoSa polyester business the SARS outbreak, overseas sales grew 5.3 operations up and running sank earnings the Paris Bourse, or down 0.07 percent, at a was formed in 1998 as a joint ven- percent in yen terms and 4.9 percent on a for the first quarter. unit price of $34.28, or 28.73 euros. ture of Koch and Mexico’s Imasab local-currency basis to $1.48 billion (162.3 For the three months ended March 31, — Brid Costello to purchase the polyester assets of billion yen). Share in overseas sales was 26 the Uniondale, N.Y.-based cosmetics manu- Hoechst Corp. Koch bought out percent, compared with the previous year’s facturer said earnings plummeted 84.3 per- Imasab’s stake in 2001. 24.8 percent. cent to $680,000, or 7 cents a diluted share. Amore Pacific’s Bigger Factory Unlike DuPont in its heyday, Total cosmetics sales, which made up Comparatively, the company reported earn- PARIS — Korean beauty firm Amore Pacific Invista will face sharper competi- 78.4 percent of entire sales, increased 1.6 ings of $4.3 million, or 44 cents a share, in Corp. unveiled its new manufacturing facili- tion from synthetic fiber makers percent to $4.45 billion (489.59 billion yen). the year-ago period. ty in Chartres, France, last week. around the world, including Japan’s Toiletries, 10.7 percent, declined 4.1 percent Sales declined 11 percent to $83.1 million Kyung-Bae Suh, the company’s president Teijin Group and Thailand’s Nan Ya to $603.6 million (66.40 billion yen). Other from $93.4 million. and chief executive officer, officially inaugu- Plastics Corp., because of cost-cut- categories, 10.9 percent, dropped 2.7 per- Shifting manufacturing operations from rated the 182,986-square-foot factory, which ting and declining apparel prices. cent to $620.6 million (68.26 billion yen). its Farmingdale, N.Y., location proved prob- represents an investment of $19.8 million. Executives at privately owned Domestic sales of cosmetics, at $3.16 bil- lematic. “The unanticipated start-up pro- The plant, where Lolita Lempicka and Koch, based in Wichita, Kan., are lion (347.67 billion yen), edged down 1 per- duction issues related to the relocation and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac fragrances and known to take a razor-sharp ap- cent. During the year, Shiseido concentrated consolidation of our principal manufactur- Lirikos skin care will be manufactured, offers proach to costs and margins. on core product lines while actively promot- ing operations to Rocky Point, N.C., had a five times the production capacity of Amore Invista’s unions have said the unit ing consultation-based sales to specialty serious impact on our first-quarter results,” Pacific’s previous facility, also in Chartres. is offering smaller retirement pack- stores and adopting a stronger approach to said Dan K. Wassong, chairman, president Among attendees at the event were In Soo ages than DuPont. Invista’s rivals structured retailers. In the second half of and chief executive officer, in a statement. John, chairman of Pacific Europe; Catherine will be watching how the business the year, the group launched new products According to data from market research Dauphin, managing director of Pacific changes under its new ownership. and undertook additional advertising and firm ACNielsen, the company’s Sally Europe, and Chul-Ki Ju, South Korea’s am- “Our focus for the near future promotional activities. However, “this was Hansen brand remained the leader in the bassador to France. is to enhance this business’ ability insufficient to compensate for weak sales in mass market nail care category with a 25.6 In other Amore Pacific news, Suh received to create superior value for our the first half. As a result, full-year sales were percent market share. La Medaille d’Argent de la Ville de Paris (The global customers,” Invista chief ex- slightly down,” said the spokesman. Wassong said production problems at the Silver Medal of the City of Paris) here last ecutive officer Jeff Walker said in a According to the company, at the prestige new facility were being addressed and that week. It was presented in recognition of Suh’s statement. “This combination of end of the market, sales of skin care products he anticipates realizing benefits from lower decision to choose France, and particularly Invista’s strengths, primarily in — mainly core lines — were solid. In the costs as a result of the move during the sec- Paris’ 17th arrondissement, as the headquar- nylon and spandex, and KoSa’s mid-level, self-selection market, sales of skin ond quarter. ters for Pacific’s European operations. Suh’s polyester capabilities, will position care and makeup products turned around in —Ross Tucker late father, company founder Sung-Whan Suh, us to compete successfully.” the second half of the year. However, prod- had also received such a medal in the Sixties. Koch said in a statement that ucts for men struggled throughout the year, Marionnaud’s Profitable Year Invista management initially will resulting in a weak overall performance. PARIS — France’s Marionnaud Parfumeries focus on “making decisions to Overseas cosmetics sales reached $1.29 reported its net profits for the year ended Sephora to Launch New Look design efficient businesses and billion (141.92 billion yen), growing 6.9 per- Dec. 31 rose 1.3 percent to $46.2 million at PARIS — Sephora is sprucing up its “white manufacturing asset structures.” cent in local currency terms and 8.5 percent current exchange rates, or 38.7 million euros. store” in Bercy Village here. Before the sale, DuPont’s on a yen-denominated basis. The travel-retail The firm’s consolidated operating profits Next month, the perfumery chain, owned Invista unit employed about 5,000 business (duty-free shops at airports) of increased almost 4 percent to $103.2 million, by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, will people. A Koch spokeswoman de- Beauté Prestige International S.A. (BPI) or 86.5 million euros, while its sales regis- unveil a new look for the store it opened in clined to comment on how many struggled, mainly due to declining traveler tered a 10.7 percent uptick to $1.36 billion, December 2000, initially with a skin care focus. workers the combined businesses numbers. In the second half of the year, how- or 1.14 billion euros, year-on-year. Following renovations, the store will be will employ, saying much remained ever, sales in Asia recovered, especially in The company highlighted its turnout at called Sephora B. Set to open May 18, it will “to be worked out.” China. As a result, the growth rate of overseas home, where Marionnaud’s operating prof- carry makeup, skin care and fragrance and sales also increased. its increased almost 5 percent to $88 mil- will offer numerous beauty services.

A Division of Orion Fashions 20 West 36th Street New York, NY 10018 212.563.5420 Fax 212.594.8473 www.koolkonnections.com 18 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 3, 2004 Etro’s World Grows With Accessories, Lounges By Luisa Zargani count for 30 percent of sales by the end of 2004. “We are developing handbags on two fronts: On the one hand, we are renovating our core paisley bags with fun details, such as MILAN — Etro is preparing to take its paisleys and prints into a broader universe. colorful piping, or more risqué combinations of materials; at the same time, we are The company is focused on retail expansion, the growth of markets outside Italy — reelaborating traditional themes, such as polo and horseback riding, which will mark especially the U.S. — and product diversification. A more complete handbags and ac- each season,” said Jacopo Etro. “But no vintage — ever. We want to offer the unexpected.” cessories collection is being introduced, as are Etro lounges, built around the compa- The Whip bag, so-called for its whip-shaped shoulder strap, will be the company’s ny’s home line. main offering for fall/winter 2004. Etro’s ready-to-wear has fueled sales in the U.S. over the past two years, a mar- Gnocchi said it’s important for a company to have a solid accessories business, ket that currently accounts for 15 percent of sales, up from 7 percent in 2002. as these “are not as affected [as rtw] by the changes and trends in fashion and “We’ve registered double-digit growth in the U.S. every season, and expect the economy,” and because accessories help build a brand’s identity. Gnocchi that market to account for 20 percent of sales at the end of the year,” said recalled how accessories were the first step the company took into product Fabio Gnocchi, sales manager of the family-owned company, in an interview diversification 21 years ago, when it decided to grow from a textile manufac- at Etro’s headquarters here. turer. “At the time, those paisley bags coated in PVC were more consequential The company’s sales in 2002 were $197.3 million, or 165 million euros con- than ready-to-wear for us,” said Gnocchi. verted at current exchange, and Gnocchi said he expects 5 percent growth for In addition, Gnocchi said handbags help target “huge markets such as the 2003. Last year, rtw accounted for 70 percent of sales, of which 60 percent de- Far East—a land of opportunities.” The Far East currently accounts for 25 per- rived from the women’s division; the textile division accounted for 13 percent of cent of Etro’s sales. sales. All products are manufactured by a network of selected subcontractors. In Japan, where the company plans to open two more stores in Tokyo next Etro will open a flagship store on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills in July, year, Etro is working on taking control of its joint venture with its historical and the company is in talks to open a store at the South Coast Plaza mall in partners Mitsui and Sanyo, which own a 51 percent share of Etro Japan. Los Angeles, and one in Las Vegas. Currently, there are boutiques in “We want to consolidate our business in Japan, where local business New York and Miami. In the U.S., the line is also carried by 110 spe- is growing as the Japanese travel less,” said Gnocchi. There are 30 cialty and department stores, including Bergdorf Goodman, Etro shop-in-shops in Japan and a boutique in Tokyo’s Ginza district. Neiman Marcus, Barney’s and Saks Fifth Avenue. The upcoming store openings in the U.S. and Japan are part of a Robert Burke, vice president and senior fashion director at retail expansion around the world. There currently are 110 Etro Bergdorf ’s, said the store has seen “a significant growth” over the stores and 700 multibrand accounts in the world. Last year, Etro past few seasons with Etro, and he attributed the brand’s success opened stores in Madrid, Munich, Venice and a bespoke space on to “key silhouettes, updated classics with a modern twist” and its Via Montenapoleone in Milan. The previous year, Etro opened a quintessential color palettes, patterns and embellishments. store in Moscow. “We are very pleased with the performance of that Shirts, tops and jersey items are among the line’s bestsellers, ac- store, which made $6 million in retail sales in one year,” said Gnocchi. cording to Burke, who said Veronica Etro, the youngest of the four Etro In July, Etro will open a store in India, in Bombay’s new Villa Moda children, who started designing the line solo in 2000, has “given new life One of Etro’s new handbags. luxury emporium. Villa Moda’s owner, Sheikh Majed Al-Sabah, has also to the brand, which is a self-expression of her style.” asked Etro to design an Etro Lounge, featuring the company’s home col- The company, founded in 1968 by Gimmo Etro, president, who still supervises all lection, within a new lifestyle and entertainment center expected to open in Kuwait operations, is managed by the second generation: Veronica’s siblings Kean, Ippolito in the first quarter of 2005, followed by one in Qatar. “The lounge would make use of and Jacopo are in charge of men’s wear; finance, and the home, textile and acces- the company’s heritage and history,” said Al-Sabah in a phone interview. “The Etros sories divisions, respectively. will have their say on everything from uniforms to tables and china,” said Al-Sabah, The expansion of the accessories division, and handbags in particular, is one of the who brought Etro to Kuwait’s Villa Moda two years ago. company’s priorities. “Now that a member of the family has taken this sector under Gnocchi said the Kuwaiti lounge could be a prototype for others. While there are still his wing, people will see the difference,” said Gnocchi, referring to the fact that no details or renderings, Gnocchi said it will be a “compromise between modern and tra- Jacopo Etro started overseeing accessories a year ago. ditional lines, an exclusive chill-out space, with rich fabrics inspired by the Middle East. Accessories currently account for 17 percent of sales. The goal is for the division to ac- It’s less of a commercial venture, and more an image and marketing initiative.”

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Financial WWD Composite Stock Index vs. S&P 500 Weekly Stock Index 52-Week P/E Sales Amt High Low (000’s) Last Change Broadline Retailers 17.95 3.76 Bon-Ton Stores 10.3 3994 12.90 -2.55 19.30 12.51 Dillard’s 152.7 30202 16.83 -1.21 55.06 29.61 Federated 13.0 84050 49.00 -2.17 6.48 1.11 Gottschalks 27.4 767 6.03 -0.12 36.77 15.57 J.C. Penney 28.9 196174 33.86 -2.38 36.48 20.02 May Dept. Stores 21.2 110172 30.80 -1.14 8.60 1.90 Retail Ventures - 2239 7.57 -0.17 17.92 8.50 Saks 24.6 92104 14.40 -2.67 56.06 26.56 Sears 3.6 101685 40.05 -2.20 46.81 32.31 Target 21.5 148264 43.37 -1.37 61.31 50.50 Wal-Mart 28.4 412463 57.00 -1.97

Softline Retailers 47.15 22.18 Ann Taylor 17.8 32779 40.53 -1.47 5.97 0.73 Bluefly - 11908 2.70 0.13 22.50 15.45 Burlington Coat 17.5 2326 18.96 -0.74 8.22 3.94 Charming Shoppes 19.6 36458 7.08 -0.54 47.60 18.80 Chico’s FAS 35.3 54224 40.73 -3.62 18.72 12.20 Dress Barn 66.3 4329 16.82 -0.91 27.59 10.10 Foot Locker 16.3 66028 24.00 -2.70 23.47 15.85 Gap 19.2 211545 22.01 -0.99 65.44 39.59 Kohl’s 24.5 206700 41.79 -1.24 21.65 13.00 Limited Brands 15.1 147447 20.64 -0.43 SOURCE: DATA NETWORKS, STANDARD & POOR’S 59.70 31.15 Neiman Marcus Group 14.2 9968 48.64 -2.34 41.25 15.78 Nordstrom 20.3 55830 35.63 -2.65 25.78 13.07 Pacific Sunwear 20.4 122213 21.60 -1.17 Fashion, Retail Shares Plunge 32.86 18.35 Ross Stores 20.3 55364 30.45 -1.01 8.20 6.20 Syms - 141 7.66 -0.19 38.65 25.70 Talbots 18.7 10815 34.95 -0.75 On Rate Hike, Mideast Fears 26.12 17.39 TJX 19.4 122488 24.57 -1.13 Vendors 48.10 32.25 Alberto Culver 24.5 21599 47.16 0.24 By Arthur Zaczkiewicz and Dan Burrows Kmart was a newly reorganized company. 85.72 56.51 Avon 28.4 85363 84.00 5.29 To put that in perspective, Kmart — the third 23.50 14.95 Cherokee 13.6 548 23.07 0.07 NEW YORK — After a strong performance through of the big three retailers after Wal-Mart Stores most of March and April, the WWD Composite Stock Inc. and Target Corp. — has seen its share price 45.45 21.38 Coach 35.3 79613 42.60 -1.40 Index finally lost steam last week, plunging 2.3 per- blow past the competition’s. While Kmart share- 59.39 43.50 Columbia Sportswear 18.7 23965 53.24 -4.35 cent, or 3.45 points, to close at 120.15 on Friday. holders have tripled their money, Wal-Mart’s 34.48 20.91 Del Laboratories 14.9 782 28.52 -3.20 The index had shown some resilience as in- stockholders have seen their investment appreci- 46.40 32.17 Estée Lauder 30.3 61704 45.71 1.99 vestors of fashion stocks seemed to be shrugging ate a paltry 4.2 percent over the same period. 25.97 12.05 Fossil 24.9 10348 24.36 -1.28 off bad news such as the escalating violence in Indeed, as one of the 30 elite components of the Iraq, as well as the threat of rising interest rates. Dow Jones Industrial Average, Wal-Mart’s stag- 12.00 5.95 G-III 6.6 82 8.01 0.01 Indeed, the index was performing better than nant stock price has actually acted as a brake on 99.80 83.91 Gucci - 2797 85.49 0.04 the S&P 500. But luck ran out as investors pulled the Dow’s 20 percent increase since last year. 19.58 3.86 Guess 93.7 11334 15.57 -2.20 back on fashion issues, especially in the softline Meanwhile, Target Corp.’s shares have grown 39.74 27.43 Jones Apparel 14.3 55061 36.60 -1.25 retailers segment. The S&P 500, by the way, finan eminently respectable 27.8 percent for that pe- 43.60 26.79 Kellwood 14.8 8328 39.45 -1.83 ished the week down 3 percent to 1107.3. riod, but that still pales in comparison to Kmart’s 37.39 18.55 Kenneth Cole 20.9 5600 34.59 -2.10 Of the stocks tracked by WWD, Avon Products performance, as does the S&P 500, which was up Inc. ended the week as one of the leading gain- 19 percent as of last week’s close. 38.90 32.00 Liz Claiborne 13.5 49773 35.10 -1.82 ers by closing up 6.7 percent, or $5.29, to $84 6.90 3.40 Mossimo 14.6 862 4.24 0.02 from $78.71. 32.50 19.46 Movado 15.8 648 30.00 0.01 The firm surprised Wall Street by releasing 47.50 16.58 Oxford 23.1 6481 38.98 -4.68 first-quarter results a day early. Investors and fi- 19.95 12.65 Phillips-Van Heusen 18.2 5169 18.07 -1.13 nancial journalists were expecting the cosmetics direct seller to report sales and earnings Friday. 37.05 21.25 Polo Ralph Lauren 19.1 25779 34.60 -1.51 Media types had to hustle on Thursday to get 23.41 14.70 Quiksilver 19.8 28660 21.63 -1.61 Avon’s results in, but investors were pleased: Avon 3.93 2.05 Revlon - 135752 3.35 0.23 posted earnings that soared 49.7 percent. 21.15 15.43 Russell Corp. 13.2 8456 16.63 -2.10 Speaking of cosmetics, last week was a beauty 4.76 1.51 Tarrant Apparel - 2163 2.40 -0.07 for The Estée Lauder Cos., which posted profits 18.25 7.30 Tommy Hilfiger - 49867 15.60 -1.30 that soared 26 percent. For the week, shares of the company gained 4.6 percent, or $1.99, from 8.59 0.90 Tropical Sportswear - 67582 2.22 1.05 $43.72 to $45.71. 48.49 33.43 VF Corp. 12.6 17350 46.16 -1.79 Meanwhile, at retail, there’s been some anxiety Was Kmart Holding Corp. the investment of the year? 21.02 10.18 Warnaco - 18227 19.13 -1.68 centered on Target Corp., Federated Department Stores and May Department Stores. The Street is Not bad for a company that managed to file for Textiles patiently waiting for Target to sell its Marshall the biggest retail bankruptcy in history. 3.70 1.06 Delta Woodside - 285 1.06 0.00 Field’s nameplate. Federated had said it was ex- Among the elements fueling Kmart’s stellar re- ploring the acquisition. Federated closed the turns are the fact that the company’s stock price 25.00 2.25 Guilford Mills - 0 18.95 0.00 week at $49, falling 4.2 percent, or $2.17, from at the resumption of trading was so low it had a 7.37 2.00 Unifi - 16911 2.50 -0.38 $51.17. May closed at $30.80, dipping 3.6 percent, lot of room to grow. Also, bear in mind that despite or $1.14, from $31.94, while Target finished at its lingering and very real problems, Kmart is still Biggest Percentage Changes $43.37, a drop of 3.1 percent, or $1.37, from $44.74. the third-largest player in the very robust dis- WWDStock Market Index Looking ahead this week, Wall Street may be count retail channel and boasts exclusive signa- For Week Ending April 30 contemplating — and celebrating — the future of ture brands such as Martha Stewart Everyday and Gainers Close Change Kmart Holding Corp., which marks the one-year Joe Boxer. And then there’s chief executive officer Composite: Broadlines: Softlines: Tropical Sptswr 2.22 89.74 anniversary of its emergence from Chapter 11 Julian Day, who, in taking the reins after a string 120.15 116.14 125.74 Revlon 3.35 7.37 bankruptcy this Friday. of overmatched managers, has won the confi- Avon 84.00 6.72 No one should celebrate more than majority dence of Wall Street, at least for now. -3.45 -4.34 -5.69 Bluefly 2.70 5.06 owner Ed Lampert, whose holdings are now worth Finally, with a price-to-earnings ratio for the Estée Lauder 45.71 4.55 more than $1.7 billion thanks to a stunning run-up trailing 12 months of 51.52, Kmart at first looks Losers Close Change in the company’s stock price. overpriced — certainly by historical and industry Vendors: Textiles: Index base of Bon-Ton Stores 12.90 -16.50 100 is keyed Since Kmart resumed trading on May 7, 2003, comparisons. However, by the unreal standards of 127.45 103.50 Saks 14.40 -15.64 its stock has more than tripled. At the end of today’s markets — especially the Nasdaq — and to closing Unifi 2.50 -13.19 Nasdaq trading last week, Kmart shares finished given time for Kmart’s earnings to play catch-up, 0.82 1.01 prices of Dec. 31, 2002. Guess 15.57 -12.38 at $44.63, a whopping 229.4 percent increase over Wall Street is betting that the company’s valua- Russell Corp. 16.63 -11.21 the $13.55 price per share they fetched when tion is quite reasonable. 20 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 3, 2004 Neiman’s Ringing Up Sales Online

Continued from page one Web can generate, Hoffman noted that, in Neiman’s also is working to develop the Web based on when we mail.” home furnishings. February, the site was flooded with 20,000 links with the corporate Web sites of key Neiman’s also is benefiting from the The revenue jump in Internet sales visitors within an hour of an e-mail to resources. It currently has electronic ties overall expansion of e-commerce. will rank neimanmarcus.com among the customers touting an online gift-with-pur- to Kate Spade, Anne Klein, Lilly Pulitzer Shoppers are becoming more comfort- chain’s top three stores in volume, said chase beauty promotion. “Twenty-thou- and David Dart. A link to manoloblah- able with online transactions and the Karen Katz, president and chief execu- sand people in a store at one time is un- nik.com is expected in a few months. proliferation of broadband connections tive of Neiman Marcus. Perhaps more like anything we’ve ever seen,” he mar- The online merchandise array resem- makes it faster, noted Graham Mudd, an importantly, the Web site has become an veled. “We think we can better capture bles a highly edited version of the fash- e-commerce analyst with ComScore effective tool for luring new customers to the demand that’s out there.” ion and home furnishings in a Neiman’s Networks in Chicago. Neiman’s stores and mail-order business. Hoffman hopes to build on a stellar store. The company at first tried to put UBS analyst Linda Kristiansen de- “Over 50 percent of our online busi- year in which the division’s comparable- an entire virtual store online, but discov- scribed Neiman Marcus’ online direct strat- ness comes from outside our trade area,” sales gains outperformed its sibling stores ered it was confusing for the customer egy as “proactive.” Moreover, the retailer is noted Brendan Hoffman, president and for nine of the 12 months through and too costly to photograph and ware- a well-positioned player in the market. ceo of NM Direct. “They come in through February, hitting a record 27 percent jump house. So the number of stockkeeping “Direct used to compete a little with the in December. He attributed the holiday units has been whittled down over the stores,” Kristiansen said. “Now, I think the surge to Neiman’s ability to ship Christmas last two years to about 10,000. whole business is trying to be synergistic.” gifts right up until Dec. 24 when most com- Online bestsellers mimic those in So how viable is the channel for the petitors stopped four or five days earlier. stores, led by shoes, handbags and con- company in the long term? “I think it’s a “We had a big push the last 10 days temporary sportswear. Top handbag col- channel I don’t see peaking any time [before Christmas], and it was millions in lections, for instance, are Gucci, Prada, soon for anyone,” Kristiansen said. “We incremental business,” Hoffman noted. Kate Spade and Burberry, and the site went through this period when the Neiman’s has gotten more aggressive had an exceptional response to the Internet was kind of out of favor. But the about courting Internet users and building launch of Luella Bartley this spring. strongest players have turned out to be its e-mail database. Last spring, it “Price point is not an issue online like those with a catalogue operation. launched a newspaper ad campaign in it is in the catalogue,” Hoffman said, not- Neiman is ideally positioned.” Birmingham, Mich.; Carmel, Calif., and ing the average online sale is 25 percent The company is working to build syn- Cleveland to lure new customers to its Web higher than through the catalogue. ergy between the stores, its catalogues site. Since then, Neiman’s each season has One of his big pushes online is to sell and the Web through a showroom in run similar ads in three or four different more designer clothing — the site’s fastest- Neiman’s stores that displays linens and cities, plus the local and national editions growing category. Neimanmarcus.com furniture sold through the Neiman’s and of The New York Times. The ads typically launched Narciso Rodriguez successfully Horchow catalogues and Web sites. Sales feature a single product, such as a Marc this spring, and Armani Collezioni will associates are on hand to help shoppers. Jacobs handbag, and offer free shipping. debut this fall. The site currently sells 19 After one year in business, the 2,000- “Historically, advertising for direct designer clothing labels, including square-foot Showrooms within Neiman’s sales was useless because they had to call Roberto Cavalli, Chloé, Donna Karan, stores in Plano, Tex., and Oakbrook, Ill., for a catalogue, so you missed the mo- Etro, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors and have been so successful that a third is ment of seduction,” Hoffman pointed out. Ralph Lauren Black Label. planned to open in the store on Michigan The publicity is working — Neiman’s “It’s taken some time to get vendors to Avenue in Chicago this month and Katz feel comfortable,” Hoffman reflected. plans to add the showrooms to more stores. “There was a perception that the Web In addition, a stand-alone showroom was discount and concern that it would will be tested next to the Neiman’s in Over 50 percent of our online business comes from reflect their brand and Neiman Marcus’ Scottsdale, Ariz., beginning in June. “If it “ image. Now they are comfortable because works, it will give us the ability to go into outside our trade area. They come in through the Web they can see the business they can do. In a lot of new malls,” Hoffman pointed out. many cases, it’s their number one store.” The division relaunched its Neiman site and then become multichannel shoppers. Aeffe USA does a substantial business Marcus home collection last fall with — Brendan Hoffman, ”NM Direct with NM online with Jean Paul Gaultier, more merchandise, including furniture. Moschino Jeans and Moschino Cheap & Surprisingly enough, the Web has sold the Web site and then become multichan- online shopper database is growing by 40 Chic, and is developing sales of Narciso $11,000 sofas, a $5,000 leather sectional nel shoppers. They’ll print pages from percent each year, he said. And the com- Rodriguez and Alberta Ferretti. sofa and a $2,129 mirrored buffet. the Web and bring them into the store.” pany is talking to that group more fre- “The business has grown considerably Neiman’s hopes to further build its cat- At NM Direct’s offices on a quiet, subur- quently with twice-weekly e-mail com- over the past couple of years,” said alogue business with the reintroduction of ban campus with a 700,000-square-foot pick- muniqués. “We found people looked at Michelle Stein, president of Aeffe USA. a children’s version this spring and plans and-pack facility, the first sign of success is the e-mails as editorial — what’s on the “None of the other stores has pushed their for its first ever men’s apparel book for an exterior one — workers are finishing the ‘in’ list now,” he observed, noting that the online business to the extent that Neiman holiday or spring. Hoffman, a former divi- landscaping around the newly expanded company did not want to besiege its cus- Marcus has. If the last few seasons are any sional merchandise manager of men’s parking lot. Inside, executives are preparing tomers with junk mail. indication, there is no stopping it.” wear at Bergdorf Goodman, got the idea to hire more buyers over the next 12 This month, Neiman’s will begin tai- Neiman’s had expected the Web site to from the success of men’s apparel online, months for the Neiman Marcus brand, loring its site to match the browsing pat- cannibalize some business from its 50 an- which is growing at a faster rate than the both in stores and online, so that all mer- terns of its shoppers with five or six dif- nual catalogues, which happened at first. overall pace of the site. Even if the men’s chandise planning will be under one roof. ferent home pages, such as a men’s page But in the past nine months, the tradition- catalogue is not profitable, he believes it “Our biggest challenge is coming to for male visitors and a handbag home al mail-order business has strengthened. will lure men to the Web site. grips with having inventory,” Hoffman page for accessories shoppers. “We are having double-digit growth in “We have found that the more chan- said. “We’re consolidating all the buying “We think by getting you closer to what the catalogue, and six months ago I would nels the customer shops, the more loyal here — previously, the stores bought you want to see it will raise our conver- not have been able to say that,” Hoffman they are and the more they spend at some and we bought some. It was very sion rate,” Hoffman explained. Currently, explained. “The catalogue business is Neiman Marcus,” Katz pointed out. “Our hard to manage. This is such a different two and a half to three out of 10 [visitors] such an important driver to the Web site goal is to drive as much traffic as possi- way of buying. We buy items deep rather make a purchase, and if we raise that you won’t see us pull back there. The two ble through the three channels.” than a wide assortment.” even one-tenth of a point, that is tens of channels coexist nicely and reinforce — With contributions from Ross To illustrate the kind of demand the millions of dollars.” each other. We clearly see an uptick on Tucker, New York

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Designer/Backpacks etc./to 50k+ Great oppty to design generic line of backpacks, sportsbags, totes etc. for well estab. Accessory co. Gd. working envir. Req: strong Illus/Photo. skls, ability to do tech packs, prev. backpack des. expr. E-mail resumes: [email protected] Retail HATS - Financial Backing (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 Wanted for Well Est’d. High-End Brand DESIGNER Tel: 561-628-3494 / Fax: 561-835-6743 Global apparel company located in Secaucus, NJ seeks Designer for its GENERAL MERCHANDISE MANAGER hosiery division. Degree in Fashion Design required. Experience in socks, hosiery or santoni is preferred. We of- Be a part of fashion history! fer a competitive salary, annual bonus, 401(k), health benefits, and opportuni- SEEKING SUCCESSOR The legendary catalog and Internet company with 45 stores ty for growth. To apply, send resume: NY Fashion Accessory multiline Rep nationwide has wonderful opportunities in our Orange [email protected] Co w/showrm. For sale or creative Equal Opportunity Employer prtnership. Niche Biz, Est’d, Hi-profile, County,CA corporate office. Celebrated for offering ladies Turn Key. Email: [email protected] clothing that is beautiful and infinitely appealing, we are unveil- ing a new look that is timeless and fresh, classic yet ageless. Designer/Graphic Artist BACKPACKS & COOLER BAGS GMM is responsible for 11 catalogs with respect to product, Seeking an exp’d. & talented individual for an excellent growth opportunity with presentation & pagination, estab. catalog & retail OTB plans, & arapidly expanding importer. Offering recommending promo strategies. Must have 10 + yrs good future & benefits. Please Fax all DESIGNER JEWELRY of apparel catalog /retail merch. management background. resumes to Mr C. at: 212- 563-3396 Exp. costume designer/product devel- Designer Immed oper for trendy costume jewelry divi- GREAT BENEFITS & GENEROUS COMPENSATION PACKAGE! sion. Must have exp. w/ mass/ dept Medical, Dental, Vision, Matching 401(k) & more. Girls stores.Import exp. a must. Sal/ Ben. Email Resume to: [email protected] Email resume to [email protected] or fax (800) 854-4107. $80,000 See us at www.drapers.com. [email protected] Refer position & job code C083-03 on all correspondence. DESIGNER Ladies/Jr. slipper & flip flop co. seeks exp’d Designer to handle all aspects of design & follow-up for rapidly growing CALVIN KLEIN KIDS Costing Manager div. MAC os X, Illustrator 10, Photoshop A division of Major Children’s 7Wizardexp. Include licensed products Intimate Apparel firm located in &character drawing. Salary commen- Wear Company seeks: midtown is looking for an surate w/ exp. Multi-task, team player. Assistant Designer experienced Costing Manager to Please fax resume to: (212) 947-1037 Jersey + Rib Lycra With at least 3 yrs experience cost out new and existing styles Fleece + Velour Designers Immed Drake Fabrics to add to our Girls Creative based on all components involved Prestige 718-389-8902 Team. Sharp computer in the manufacturing of the style Name Company $50 to $90K and motivational skills. from the fabric through shipping [email protected] Graphic Artist and custom costs. Will work To add to our Creative Team. closely with Production Dept. to DESIGNERS - Lingerie Sharp Computer skills in deliver efficient and timely Exciting new lingerie company seeks Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. costings. Product is made in Asia exp’d. Designers to work P/T on an Illustrator, Photoshop etc. entrepreneurial venture. Great oppor- No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Looking for a very motivated and imported back to our DC Call CLOTHES-OUT: located in New York. Please send tunity w/flex schedule. Responsible for (937) 898-2975 person with a upscale tween follow-up and communication with key junior taste level. resume with salary requirements partners from initial prototypes through to: (201)842-0763 commercialization of product. 4+ years Excellent benefits & of exp. working in intimate apparel and developing product at factory level. working atmosphere. E-mail to : [email protected] Please fax resume Attn: Marcella (212) 967-9292 Designer Designer to $100K. Current exp in better CLOSE OUTS Goldluck International tween denim + activewear for dept store (USA) Corp. branded line. Must hang with limited too, We Buy Men’s, parigi, mamiye, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agy Women’s & Children’s Leading int’l necktie mfr Showroom Sublet-Brand New Accts. Rec./Chrgback Col. seeks a market-oriented Designer to $100K. Current exp. in missy All Quantities Leading midtown accessories/novelty 171 Madison 3800 FT Wood Floors designer with 5-7 yrs of or contemorary or junior cut & sewn tops, WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Co. seeks organized, energetic individ- private label required. Strong knowledge We are nice people to deal with Search-www.manhattanoffices.com ual. Tremendous opportunity for necktie experience. Solid of cut & sewn fabric. Fashion forward growth. Exp. in dealing w/ major retail exp with woven design and look. Call 973-564-9236Jaral Fashion Agcy P.S. Large Piece Good Deals stores. Proficient w/ Microsoft applica- computer savvy a must. Also HBA and General Merchandise. tions. Good communications skills. Designer to $100K. Current exp. in tween non Call Rocky 800-762-5488 Fax resume to 212-643-0684 Fax/Email resumes with denim sportswear, knit & woven, tops & bot- reference: 212-448-9288 or toms required. Well known licenced line. Broad- way at 37th St. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy Admin Assistant [email protected] Fast-growing Jr jeanswear co needs Designer to $100K administrative help. Organized, hard- Missy swimwear/ coverups. Moderate priced working, college grad should fax resumes Janet Stevens *Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 attn: Ilene: 212-719-4074 BUYER - Deal.com [email protected] Deal.com is seeking an aggressive, forward thinking, Internet savvy NYC Designer Freelance Sample Maker based Off-Price Buyer. Compensation Top of the line children’s accessory GirlStar* ADMIN. ASSISTANT based on skill and experience. Stock Brand is available for licensing Dress Maker - Alterations To manage bookkeeping & general company seeks a talented designer for options and Health insurance included. their newborn/infant accessory line. opportunities. GirlStar is currently Call 718-749-1751 office management for NYC luxury Experience in Home, Women’s, Men’s being sold in Junior Swimwear in apparel showroom. Good appearance, 2-3 years licensed baby/lafayette expe- a plus. Please send an electronic copy rience a must! NJ based, state of the Specialty & better Department stores. knowledge of Qbook, MSOffice & of your resume to: [email protected] For more information please contact: Outlook. Pls. email resume & salary art facility, creative working environ- Don Grier at Gotcha International, LP req’s to: [email protected] ment, friendly people and great benefits. (949) 221-0990 We want to hear from you! Email resume: BUYER/WOMEN’S [email protected] APPAREL STAFFING, LTD. Division Brand Mgr $175-200K. Cur- Controller-Apparel Bkrd Req-Sptswr mfr$BOE Off Price Buying Office seeking an rent exp. in branded men’s or women’s Cust. Service/Sls Supp-Bttr mkt req. to $45K activewear/outerwear. Must hang w/ DsgnrAsstnt-cwr mac Photo+ Illus -B+G$35K experienced Buyer with Jr/Missy/Plus RESUMES THAT WORK! size experience. Please send resume to Columbia, Quicksilver, Polo, Nautica, DsgnrAsstnt-cwr 1-2yrs+infant +toddler $35K Tommy etc. Strong relationships w/ Graphic Dsgnr-Jr mkt bkgrd $BOE Promotional Buying Service SINCE 1970 Fax: 212-465-9733 dept stores and better specialty stores OperationsMgr.-Sptswr MFR. to $85K req’d. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy PATTERN/SAMPLES For Fashion and Retailing Techn Dsgnr-Full fashion sweaters-bttr price E-mail: [email protected] Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Professional Resumes Inc. Techn Dsgnr-cwr bilingual-xlnt oppty $BOE Division Head $175K ++. Current exp. as head work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Techn Dsgnr-cwr knit exp. immed hire $BOE Designer $100-125K. Current exp. in of div. of women’s designer label required. Lifetime Updating/ Techn Dsgnr Better Wovens-Bridge line $70’s bras and intimate apparel req’d. Mid- Strong relationships w/ dept. stores. Women’s Telephone Interviews Other [email protected] town well known established growing outerwear exp preferred not necessary. Run en- Patterns/Samples/Beading Rush Service Available or Fax Resume to (212) 302-1161 co. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy tire div. for large growing multi-div mdtwn co. Duplicates Cut & Sew Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy Full Service - Good Quality 60 East 42nd Street Suite 839 Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 New York, NY 10165 Assistant Designer $80-100K. Current exp. in Do not Publish private label cut & sewn knits + 212-697-1282 / 800-221-4425 sweaters. Fashion vision of Emma www.resumesforfashion.com NEW CAMPAIGN PATTERNS, SAMPLES, ASSISTANT PRODUCT Jones, Cold Water Creek, Christopher GRAPHIC ARTIST 488 7th Ave (36th Street) Banks etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Part-Time (3 days/week) PRODUCTIONS MANAGER Mid-town NYC Accessory/Gift Co. for 1 BR SHOWROOM APTS All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Accessory company is seeking a detail home decor/gift & novelty lines. Must Call Sherry 212-719-0622. oriented individual to assist Women’s Designer Assoc $50-60K. Current exp. be proficient on the MAC in Illustrator LIVE/WORK Product Manager. This position in JR sportswear req’d. Mostly Jr wo- & Photoshop. Experience in packaging From $1495, 400-600 SF, requires excellent organizational and ven bottoms. Division of midtown fast & brand identities, fast-paced environment, Wd flrs, hi ceils. Immed Occ PATTERNS, SAMPLES, communication skills. Responsible for growing large co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy excellent salary, benefits & 401(k). 212-629-8694 M-F 10a-6p No Fee PRODUCTIONS follow-up of prototypes and samples E-Mail: [email protected] with overseas vendors. Computer Designer For Space in Garment Center Samples and patterns full servcie shop proficiency a must. 1-2 years experi- to the trade. Fine fast work. ence required. Please email resume to GRAPHIC ARTISTS Helmsley-Spear, Inc. 212-869-2699. [email protected] or Large apparel company is looking for 212-880-0414 fax to JM at 212-355-4291 three talented Graphic Artists with experience in missys/womens & infant Showroom / Office / Retail PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Assoc/Asst Designers /toddler-boys. Individuals should be We find you space-best deal-no fee High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Theory currently has exceptional skilled with prints and embellishments. Sublet 525 7th/ready sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Asst. Customer Service Mgr. opportunities for highly motivated, Established sportswear manufacturer Must know Photoshop and Illustrator. Garment Center Real Estate creative Designers in sweaters, knits Fax resume to 212-239-2766 Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 requires an Assistant Customer Service and wovens for our midtown corporate Underwire Bra Specialists Manager with 2-4 yrs. experience. Pro- office. Minimum 2 years design As well as all other types of lingerie & ficient in Microsoft Office Suite, Excel, experience. Excellent compensation Graphics Immed Showrooms & Lofts Childrens BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS swimwear. Patterns, samples, Access. Knowledge of garment produc- package. Please send resume: grading, small production. tion needed. Please forward resume to: [email protected] or $50,000 Great ’New’ Office Space Avail [email protected] ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Call Eddie @ 212-564-9065 for more details [email protected] fax (212)921-5882 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 3, 2004 23 L.A. Sales Pick Up as Terror Warning Is Lifted

By Rose Apodaca Jones manager told me they had po- erage of $98.64 on Mother’s Day Amber Newsome said following market, next to Texas. and Marcy Medina lice and FBI in and out all day.” gifts this year, up 1.3 percent a dip in sales Thursday, num- “The good news is the mood That Guess store, at nearby from $97.37 last year. Total bers were back to normal by of shoppers seems to be almost LOS ANGELES — Retailers here Westfield Shoppingtown Century Mother’s Day spending national- Saturday. “People stayed away back to normal. You can tell by said sales appeared to be City, saw a trickle return Friday, as ly is seen exceeding $10 billion. initially, but they came back the noise level in the air,” said bouncing back over the week- did other retailers in the outdoor By Saturday, however, there quickly,” she said. Beverly Center marketing direc- end after a dropoff Thursday in mall. Customers enthusiastically was little sign locals — nervous Macy’s released this statement tor Barbara Bach Saturday af- the wake of a threat advisory of sampled at cosmetics counters at or not — were staying away from regarding its stores in Santa ternoon. “Strictly anecdotally, it a potential terrorist attack at an Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s, while malls — even those by the Monica, Century City, Westside looks like business is up.” unspecified Westside mall. others strolled the courtyards beach, as temperatures soared Pavilion and Beverly Center: “We In fact, at American Eagle Police Chief William J. clutching shopping bags. into the mid-80s. are taking some extra precau- Outfitters at Beverly Center, Bratton called off the alert late Kay Braden, 21, a UCLA At oceanside Santa Monica tions with deliveries and premis- manager Amy Nicholson hadn’t Friday, yet security remained music major, said the threat advi- Place, young shoppers had more es security, but we believe dis- noticed a change in her num- more visible than usual at busy sory crossed her mind as she than Mother’s Day on their cussing security matters in any bers. “Judging from the parking shopping centers through the neared school Thursday and minds. “We considered not com- detail is counterproductive.” lot, the whole mall is as busy as weekend. caught a glimpse of the Federal ing, but we have prom coming Nordstrom spokeswoman ever,” she said Friday evening, At Westside Pavilion, a ghost Building. “But if it was well up and we have to shop,” said Deniz Anders said the company adding she has received threat town Thursday and less than known enough to get on the news, Santa Monica High School sen- was “looking to authorities for alert memos from mall security two miles from the Federal the chance of something happen- ior Jessie Kugelmeir, 18. Added direction” for its units at in the past, and “didn’t think Building, which was cited in the ing had to be slim,” she opined. classmate Zinaida Georgieva, Westside Pavilion and the this one was a big deal until I anonymous tip to federal offi- Some retailers worried the 18, “My mom said, ‘Just shop Grove. Both were crowded by saw it on the news.” cials, traffic, as well as uni- terror alert could put a damper quickly and leave.’” mid-day Saturday. Even that didn’t stop shop- formed police and security, re- on sales the weekend before Kenneth Cole manager Neither Macy’s nor Nordstrom per Amy Bee, 33, an apparel turned the next business day. Mother’s Day, which is next Bryan Sanders said Saturday he would discuss an impact on sales. sales rep, toting several “I think we’ll be fine after Sunday. That day traditionally remained anxious. “Thursday But Tim Lyons, a spokesman Bloomingdale’s bags. “I saw the today,” said Guess store manag- rings up big business, particu- was dead, you could see the ac- for J.C. Penney, with 25 stores in Beverly Center on the news yes- er Jessica DeCarlo on Friday. larly for florists, card shops, tual effect of the threats. It a 40-mile radius from the mid- terday [Thursday] and it didn’t DeCarlo, echoing other retailers jewelers, food and apparel re- spilled over into Friday, when dle of Los Angeles, said the affect my decision to shop here. there, saw Friday sales bounce tailers. According to a survey the energy was also really low. company wasn’t affected by the I’d shop at the other [Westside] back after a dismal Thursday. conducted by BIGresearch by I’m hoping things get back to terror alert and posted sales malls, too.” “We’re better off than the the National Retail Federation, normal today.” gains last Thursday. California — With contributions from Century City store, where a consumers plan to spend an av- Nearby at BCBG, manager is the chain’s second biggest David Moin, New York

Patternmaker to $100K INTERNSHIPS 5 yrs + exp. bras. Strong communication skills Production Mgr $100-125K. Current exp. in bet- Established apparel company is look- Jennifer *Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 ter to bridge womens outerwear req’d. Tech Nat’l. Sales/Business Mgr. ing for interns to work with our design [email protected] knowledge of construction of outrwr + prod HIGH-END PICTURE FRAMES and sales department. Great opportu- admin+ scheduling. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Excellent opportunity for an aggressive nity to get experience in the fashion &proven Sales Professional with 5-10 Patternmaker to $60-70K. Current exp Account Mgr to $150K+++ Current exp. years retail sales experience in accessories industry. Work with your school to in jr knit tops or jr woven bottoms. gain school credit. Hours are flexible. Purchaser/Handbags in branded missy better sweaters. Strong such as high-end picture frames, home 1411 Bway. Call 973-564-9236 dept store relationships required. Must accessories, gift items and/or jewelry. Pls call Diane @ 212-239-0023 ext. 6029 Jaral Fashion Agency Great oppty at leading Accessory co. Coord w/sales & R&D to purch prod- hang w/ Cable & Guy, Joseph A, August Salary commensurate with experience. Patternmaker to $70K. Current exp. in ucts from Orient. Work w/their Asian Silk etc. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy Excellent benefits package. Please Fax MERCHANDISE MANAGER bras or swimwear. Secaucus New offices to neg., place & follow up on or E-mail resume to: 954-718-3213 Seeking Sales Reps based in Paul Frank is now accepting resumes Jersey location. Growing company. order detail. Req. Orient travel, 3 yrs [email protected] of candidates w/ 5-7 yrs Merchandising Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy. handbag purch exp, coll. deg. MS ACCOUNT REP Or visit our website at: NYC, Atlanta, Dallas, Chicago, experience in high volume, multi Office, strong communication skills & Ladies sheer hosiery manufacturer seeks www.aurafin.com category environment for a Sr. level speak Mand. or Cantonese. account rep to work in NYC & D.C. area. Miami. Track record w/Designer & Merchandise Manager position. This Product Developer/ E-mail resumes: [email protected] Must have extensive experience working Better Specialty Stores a must. position is responsible for managing R&D Mgr. (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 with department &/or specialty stores, merchandising of all Paul Frank knowledge of replenishment business, FALL COLLECTION READY FOR LAUNCH product categories. Orlando jewelry mfg. Co. seeks exp’d PRIVATE LABEL product developer w/ proven ability to Excel skills & travel required. Send resume via fax Attn: Kim Flores Email resume to: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] (949) 515-7011 lead creative process from concept RECEPTIONIST SALESPERSON through design, material selection, Distributor of footwear seeks dependa- Apparel manufacturer in China seeks Fax: 213-623-6443 pricing, & supplier development. ble, reliable person. Attend to busy PRIVATE LABEL SALESPERSON. Merchandiser/Division Head phones, perform various clerical duties, Exciting Opptys Relationship with wholesalers/retailers Please e-mail resume & salary req’s Men’s & Women’s contemporary Nationally Distributed LADIES BELTS to [email protected]. showroom tasks and UPS shipments. is a must. Email resume to: Accessory importer opening a belt sportswear manufacturer seeks two [email protected] NEWBORN/INFANTS’ APPAREL CO. Must be computer literate. high-powered sales professionals to join division for Jr. specialty & mass PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Please fax resume: 212-751-3336 Seeks exp’d. Sales Reps for East Coast market seeks a candidate w/ min 3 yrs Accessories/to 45k+ our team. Energetic & highly-motivated Territories. Please contact Steven Votta exp a must. Good salary & For major accessory company. Oversee candidates must have established Tel: 212-947-2883 / Fax: 212-947-4060 benefits +performance bonus. entire prod. develop. process. Follow Retail analyst to $50K. Current exp. in relationships with mid-tier dept stores, SALES/Handbags/to 100k+ specialty stores & mass market retailers Email us at [email protected] up w/ licensors, & overseas. Req: 3 replenishment. Allocations to stores. Better Dept. Stores years prod. develop. experience, detail Growing women’s sportswear co. and the ability to bring in new accounts. Sr. Sales Exec needed for "Upper end" SWIMWEAR Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy Extensive exp req’d in branded dept Handbag division of major Accessory O2GYM, a fast growing, est’d. Swimwear Merchandiser Immed oriented, keen eye for color/details, &Apparel Mfr., is seeking exp’d. Reps maintain reports, negotiating/ costing ex- store business, as well as private label. company. Req: must have experience **Manager** Polished presentation skills and strong selling to Barneys, Bendels, Fred Segal, in many territories, both in the US and perience, strong international exp., internationally. Ideal candidates should Stable/Growing Firm some travel, MS Office. BA degree. merchandising abilities. Must have Bloomingdales, etc. with a proven & $100,000 Secretary & effective communication & retail math steady track record. NYC based. have strong contacts with Boutiques & E-mail resumes: [email protected] Specialty / Department Stores. Please [email protected] (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 skills, be extremely organized and E-mail resume to: [email protected] Shipping Clerk detail oriented. Fax resume & salary (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 Fax or E-mail all resumes to: 2 POSITIONS AVAILABLE!! requirement (212) 967-1541. 909-468-1266 / [email protected] F/T, English speaking. Computer PRODUCTION/ knowledge required. Some diversified ADMINISTRATIVE office duties. Please call Sherry @ Judith Ripka Companies Join an established import accessory (212) 398-0606, between 9am-5pm Seeking the Best in Class!!! Sales Professional company producing infants, child- Mens sportswear company seeking an Unique opportunity to join a team of Sales experienced sales person. Ym ren’s & licensed products, selling to hi- Pros at a flagship Madison Ave., Short Hills, vol & dept store retailers. Seeking SWEATER DESIGNER background preferred. 3+ years. NJ, East Hills, LI, locations. 3+ years of experience. Showroom sales. Room STRONG, AGGRESSIVE, Responsi- Fast paced Women’s Sportwear Co. luxury sales exp. req’d. with polished ble, PC literate individual who is very seeks sweater designer with min 5 for growth. Great working environment. presentation/exceptional communication Excellent salary and benefits. detail oriented & organized. Position years exp in better or contemporary skills and proven track record. Strong interacts with Orient sales & design market. Must have strong technical client following a must. Excellent benefits Please fax resume 212-268-3963 on a daily basis. Some admin produc- knowledge and have contacts with package & high income earning potential No Kidding is a growing childrenswear tion within the industry a plus. factories and yarn agents. available. Cosmetic or fashion exp. is a company offering the following posi- Email resume to: Fax resume to Lynn 212-302-2399 +++++ Please send resumes: tions with great salary and benefits. [email protected] Attn: Theresa @ Fax: (212) 244-4560 SAMPLEMAKER / Growth opportunity is available for ag- or fax to: 646-452-5571 Tech Designers Immed QUALITY CONTROL gressive candidates: Production Coord $40-50K. Current exp. in Stable Firm Experienced person in bras & under- Junior or Kids bottoms req’d. Track and $60,000 KAMA JEANS wear samplemaking and quality con- Production/Sales Asst [email protected] trol seeking position. Fax 201-869-4853. Production/sales asst needed to help schedule import production from incep- VP of Sales tion to completion. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy IS GROWING Major established Company seeks manage/maintain retail accounts. Must Wearecurrently looking to hire a sales professional with department TECH DESIGNERS Sales Executive in NY or LA. Chain have experience in dealing with major Production Coster to $70K. Current exp. in store (Dillard’s, May, Federated) back- retailers and in retailing. Womens woven bottoms NYC $50-75K and Boutique store following a PLUS! junior or missy knit sportswear. Follow-up Missy Knit tops NYC $45-65K ground in kids. Must have account Fast paced Junior and Contemporary relationship, be results oriented and w/domestic knit factories. 1411 Broadway. Bras NYC to $75K line booming! Please e-mail resume to: Technical Pack/Production Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy have excellent communication and Asst Missy Sportswear Philidalphia $60-70K [email protected] Full Fashion Sweaters NYC to $65K organizational skills. Three years Seeking a highly organized motivated Production Immed minimum experience required. individual to handle design detail tech Juniors Asst tech Designer Denim bottoms NYC $40K Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency Excellent salary and benefits. packs and production packs as well as $40,000 Fax resume to 212-239-2766 overseas approvals and communica- [email protected] tions. Must be able to work well with Tech Design Immed people and have full understanding of Production Immed basic computer programs as well as Outerwear VP Sales $$ open photoshop and illustrator. Nice Firm Infant/Toddler and/or girls underwear. Mid tier $50,000 $65,000 Jennifer *Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Fax resumes to Lauren at:212 967 7494 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Visit us at Accessories The Show Booth #861

261 Fifth Avenue, 20th Floor • New York, NY 10016 • Tel: 800-322-8864