Coping with Two World Heritages. the Two UNESCO Declarations and Local Identity in Elche
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Coping with two World Heritages. The two UNESCO declarations and local identity in Elche. D. Carmona-Zubiri & A.M. Nogués-Pedregal Universitas Miguel Hernández - Spain ABSTRACT: Elche is a 230,000 (2009) inhabitants city with a formerly very strong shoemak- ing industry located in the province of Alicante (Spain) and, most important for a comprehen- sive analysis, in the worldwide known tourism destination of the Costa Blanca. Besides, it is one of the few cities with two UNESCO World Heritage declarations (UWH): the site Palmeral de Elche (included in the World Heritage List as ref. nº 930 in 2000) and the Misteri d’Elx (in- cluded among the Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2001). The Palmeral is a landscape of groves of date palms, formally laid out, with elaborate irrigation systems, during the Muslim period in the Peninsula. The Misteri is a sacred musical drama of the death, the passage into heaven and the crowning of the Virgin Mary. Since mid-eighteenth century it has been performed in the Basilica of Santa Maria and the surrounding streets. Despite these UWH declarations, the most highly considered identity symbol for the citizens of Elche is the Iberian bust known as the Dama de Elche, exposed in the Archaeological National Museum of Madrid. The authors trace a brief history of these three cultural elements and their relation with the construction of an identidad ilicitana (identity of the inhabitants of Elche) in three different historical periods marked by the economic flourishing and decay and of the city: since the discovery of the Dama in 1897 until the industrialisation and the flows of Spanish immigrants during the sixties; after the industrial crisis in mid-nineties and the political shift towards a cultural tourism develop- ment strategy. Combining historical and survey analyses, it is shown how these three cultural elements have been appropriated (and used) by different actors and social groups both in daily practices and in policy-making. 1 INTRODUCTION1 We insist2: tourism is one of the names of power. The noun tourism is the discursive form given to the complex set of symbolic and technical dispositifs (devices) that, linking the visible and the expressible (Deleuze, 1986), allows certain groups of people to spend their leisure time away from their quotidian, including what they do at those places and the processes induced. Anthropology should then allow for an important distinction in the way of approaching that complex set of dispositifs that have been textually reduced to one term: tourism. Tourism has been basically approached as a ‘business’ or as a ‘phenomenon’ and, still, the issue about its precise meaning remain unsolved (Burns, 1999: 23-37). However, in many territories, this com- plex set of practices that we label tourism, it is not only presented as the sole way for develop- ment, but it is also one of the most powerful mediator in meaning production. Actually, given 1 Published in Proceedings of Heritage 2010. Heritage and sustainable development (Évora, 2009). Pages 769- 776. R. Amôeda, S. Liria y C. Pinheiro (eds.) Green Line Institute, 2010. 2 In our most recent texts we usually start with this paragraph. It clarifies our starting point and underlines the close relationship between tourism, power and the production of meanings, mainly in the cultural heritage sphere. 1 this capacity to re-signify culture, we can refer to tourism to be the most perfect refinement of capitalism, since it does not only consume material and tangible elements by means of territorial occupation and commoditisation of certain cultural expressions, for instance, but it also make use of intangibles and re-signify culture. Within this conception of tourism as a contextual agent that re-signifies culture (Nogués, 2003), researchers may find interesting to privileged two lines of research among some others. On the one hand, as Boissevain’s edited book ethnographically demonstrated, to understand what is tourism, how intercultural processes work, social research should focus on one pole of the host-guest tourist continuum: “in the so-called hosts, the people who both service tourists’ needs and are the object of their attention” (1996:1). The second line of research would overcome the sterile debates on definitions. In its place researchers should devote their analytical efforts to comprehend those practices that give meaning (content) to the labels and to the labelling process itself. The latter is the research line followed in this article. Hence, applying a definition of culture as that compound of manifestations, modes, what is said, what is done, circumstances and contexts that acquires its sense within a specific group and gives sense to the social life (Nogués, 2008), the central question to be analysed in this text is how objects acquire their meanings and give sense to social reality in tourism contexts through practice? The next paragraphs follow a diachronic presentation. First it is offered a general overview of the city of Elche, so to proceed into an historical and description of the three cultural elements to be discussed mentioned in the abstract. At the end some conclusions on how different meanings of these three cultural elements are being mediated by tourism are drawn up. Illustration: Billboard at one of the entrances to the city. It says: Elx, two world heritages. The images show the main tourist attractions. From left to right: Dama de Elche, Palm Groves, Misteri d’Elx, Beaches and the new Congress Centre. 2 SKETCHES OF A CITY Elche is a middle size city located in the South East of Spain in the autonomous community of Comunidad Valenciana. The city is located in a plain near the coast, which in fact is the flat down part of the Vinalopó Valley (Baix Vinalopó area), within the currently called Costa Blanca by the Mediterranean coast. Its 230,000 inhabitants makes of the third most crowded town in the region after Valencia and Alicante. Despite this new interest in the tourism industry, Elche can still be defined as an industrial city with some remainders of the former agricultural production. Actually the city's economic basis had been strongly dependent on the shoemaking industry since the end of the 50's. During the 19th century Elche was an agricultural and com- mercial city, but by the end of that century it was developed a shoemaker industry focusing on an esparto (specie of Spanish grass, Macrochloa tenacissima) shoe called espardeñas, com- monly wore by peasants. Elche went on its industrial development during the beginning of the 2 20th century, but after the Civil War and the postwar period, the shoemaking industry strongly reemerged. Elche's growth was unprecedented since the population increased from 35,000 in- habitants to 75,000 during the 60's. Indeed, Elche was known as “Little Barcelona”. Present day city is the result of that swift but unbalanced growth, typical of the historical pe- riod known in Spanish historiography as “Desarrollismo” (‘developism’) A peculiar urban landscape, which combines an extended urban weave of small flats blocks with few distinctive landmarks and a vast forest of palm groves (huertos de palmeras). The social stratification is characterised by strong middle and working classes: a direct consequence of the peculiar work system defined as “the scattered fabric” (San Miguel, 2000). This system combined the fabric production with the production at the workers houses in order to reduce cost by avoiding taxes and social security expenses. Indeed Elche was considered to be “the city of the black econ- omy”. As one of the most distinguishing cultural features, it is important to slip here some traits on the uses of language through time, so to understand a little bit better the cultural and social proc- esses that have shaped Elche up. The Comunidad Valenciana has got a distinctive language called valenciano, although most philologists think of it as a dialect of catalan, one of the offi- cial languages of Catalonia, another autonomic community situated in the North of the Comuni- dad Valenciana. Despite the increasing use of the castellano --Castilian is the constitutional name of the language internationally known as Spanish-- since the 18th century, the valenciano still was the most used language in the city of Elche at the beginning of the 20th century. Nowa- days, the valenciano is just spoken by a minor part of the local population given that the major- ity of ilicitanos (the term referring to the inhabitants of Elche) have come from nearby Castil- ian-speaking regions such as Murcia, Castilla-La Mancha or Andalucía as immigrants during the 60’s. Despite of the efforts of the autonomous government to promote the use of the valen- ciano, Spanish is the common language for ordinary life and, surprisingly, many ilicitanos think that castellano is the original and most characteristic language of Elche. Though the most important shoemaker producer centre in Spain, Elche name was specially known after the Dama de Elche (the Lady of Elche), the Palmeral (the Palm Grove) and also El Misteri d'Elx (The Mistery of Elche) These latter, the Palmeral and the Misteri were declared as World Heritage by the UNESCO at the beginning of the 21st century. The Palmeral was in- cluded in the World Heritage List (ref. nº 930 in 2000) and the Misteri a little after, in 2001, included among the Intangible Cultural Heritage. On the other hand, the Dama –as it is locally referred to—is an Iberian bust found out at the end of the 19th century in the site of La Alcudia, the Elche site during Roman period. Though the Dama immediately became very popular among the ilicitanos, it was sold some days after the discovery to a French antiquarian with the premonitory name of Pierre Paris, who rapidly took it to the Louvre.