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Weisshorn-2015” by Aldo Maldonato

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Weisshorn-2015” by Aldo Maldonato Comitato per l’Educazione Terapeutica organizzazione non lucrativa di utilità sociale 4th DAM Meeting, “Weisshorn-2015” by Aldo Maldonato Here we go again! The group of mountaineers with type 1 diabetes that has already climbed in 2012 Gran Paradiso (4061 m) and Tresenta (3609 m), in 2013 Castore (4228 m), Liskamm Nose (4272 m) and top of Mt Blanc (4810 m), and last year the Mischabel Dom (4545 m), this year spent a week around 4000 m, again in the Valais, Switzerland, making base in the village of Zinal, Val d'Anniviers. The mountaineering moments were alternated with meetings of Therapeutic Education, both with AM who took charge of organizing this new adventure, and with Jean Philippe Assal – the European father of therapeutic education – and with his wife Tiziana who for some years has collaborated with him enthusiastically. The suggestion has come as usual from Marco Peruffo, who for many years now keeps sharing his exceptional experience of diabetic mountaineer “in altitude” with common humans – affected or not by type 1 diabetes. His proposal arrived in January and found me in a delicate moment, because had just made a “coupon” that had put me back into shape, but had a little cracked my securities. Marco's stimulus served to remove doubts... and I started with the organization. The first answers were even too enthusiastic... so much to make me wonder if it was not the case to close the enrollments. Then, after reaching numbers that threatened to blow up the meager budget of the Comet, there were several waivers: most of them were timely due to family or work reasons, and two at the last minute due to slight indispositions. I wish to clarify here that the ComET sponsored the safety of the initiative by recruiting 7 professional guides, and it gave a small contribution to the few who asked for it, but for the rest the participants paid from their own pockets and there were no other sponsorships. In short, we finally returned to the usual number of participants: 8 people with type-1 diabetes, 1 with multiple sclerosis, a very involved spouse and two "older" diabetologists (besides me, the indomitable Gianfranco Poccia from l’Aquila), both not yet affected by diabetes but already endowed with a rich heritage of various ailments, more or less related to age. To represent with a logo the spirit that guides us and binds us, Marco has commissioned and produced, thanks to ADiQ, the symbol of our meetings: “Diabete & Alta Montagna”, where the conjunction consists of a mountain rope wrapped in a figure-of-eight knot, also called true-love knot . Originally the mountaineering project was to reach the Cabane de Mountet (2886 m) on the first day, starting from Zinal (1675 m). From there, make two excursions just below 4000, then go down in the valley and rest one day. Then reach the Cabane de Tracuit (3256 m) and the next day try the summit of the Weisshorn (4505) from its long and challenging North ridge. Unfortunately, the conditions of the mountain since mid-August had become too dangerous and even before leaving, we knew that the Weisshorn ridge was now impassable due to too much snow. The educational project included 2 afternoon meetings of 1.5 hours each in the refuges, a 3-hour afternoon meeting in the hostel in Zinal, and two final meetings with the Assals: 3.5 hours on Saturday afternoon and 2.5 hours on Sunday morning before leaving, and so we did. At long last, after so many preparations, here we are converging on August 23rd from Abruzzo, from Lazio, from Veneto, from Piedmont and from Lombardy to Zinal, where we arrive around noon and we find the Assals to welcome us for a brief greeting. The weather forecast indicates rain for today and tomorrow, but good weather starting from after- tomorrow and for the rest of the week: it will turn out to be exact, and in the end we can consider ourselves really lucky. The first ascent to the refuge takes place in the rain for almost half the 4 hours necessary to climb the moraine of the Zinal glacier, crushed under our of 12-15 Kg backpacks. The glacial amphitheater that surrounds the Cabane de Mountet can just be guessed through the clouds, and at the refuge we find the Swiss guide Armand Salamin, who greets among us also our "historical" guide, Piero Bosetti from Cortina d’Ampezzo, whom he already knows from last year at the Dom; the other two Swiss guides, Romain and Christian, join us shortly thereafter. The refuge is ancient, but refurbished and very well maintained by a family of really kind managers. The fact that it is practically empty and that we are almost the only guests does not hurt ... On the 24th, as expected, drizzle or snow and the guides offer us a “walk” on the glacier. Since the weather will adjust to open in a beautiful rainbow, the walk will turn into a 900m climb to reach the sharp ridge that connects the Blanc de Moming with the Zinalrothorn, at an altitude of 3750 m. The overcoming of the terminal crevasse on a precarious snowy bridge (that we have baptized Pont Gruyère) will give us some shiver, but Romain will assure us beyond the crevasse with a "dead body" buried in the high snow. In the afternoon, taking advantage of the calm offered by the refuge, we make our first educational meeting, sharing everyone's expectations for this week at high altitude, and addressing the first problems encountered by some in adapting the therapy to the new exercise regime. On the 25th weather is good, but when we leave for the Trifthorn (3728 m) at 5 in the morning we do not know yet because it is dark and the refuge is wrapped in a thick fog that will last until the afternoon. Finally, after an hour's march, at dawn the sky appears quite clear and the profiles of Zinalrothorn, Obergabelhorn, Dent Blanche and Grand Cornier stand out clearly. Among these giants our goal (shown in the picture by the wash) appears not without its sharp dignity. Only one participant, not accustomed to snow and ice, and who had come with the intention of just reaching the shelters, limits herself in both days to a nice walk on the glacier, and does not face the steepest slopes. Back to the shelter, after a quick snack, we walk down the long descent to Zinal, where we will arrive all quite exhausted after more than 10 hours since awakening. Thank goodness that the Auberge Alpina is very relaxing and that tomorrow is resting! At dinner we have the pleasure of having as guests Tiziana and Jean-Philippe Assal who, observing us, are rightly more concerned with the fatigue of diabetologists than for the conditions of diabetics! The morning of the 26th is so beautiful that some are tempted by a nearby rock gym, while others go to visit the dam and the Moiry glacier, upstream of Grimentz. In the afternoon, during the long education session, the critical issues encountered by some in the management of diabetes during more or less intense efforts are discussed, and the role of stress in the control of blood sugar is underlined, both under normal conditions and in the case of type-1 diabetes. The “fondue” dinner tests immediately the ability of the participants to prolong – in some way – the action of the insulin “bolus” to prevent the late rising of glycemia due to the proteins and fat of so much cheese . On the 27th the good weather continues and, starting at 10 full load for the Cabane de Tracuit, we are very pleased that the first half of the climb is still in the shade. We reach the refuge in the 4 h 10’ foreseen by the signals on the path, but the fast ones of the group employ a lot less. Marco, who has been waiting for the arrival of Italian guides from Vicenza (Ferruccio, Andrea and Carlo), impresses everyone by climbing in 2 h 15’. Even his management of diabetes arouses the admiration of the participants: thanks to his attentions and the help from Sara, who is very careful and competent in particular on the calculation of ingested carbohydrates, his blood sugar fluctuates almost always between 100 and 140 mg/dl, very rarely exceeding these limits and never very much. The Cabane de Tracuit, super modern and technological, stands at the antipodes of the previous refuge, not only because jam- packed with 120 people, but above all for the lack of kindness of the managers. The beautiful weather, however, and the full moon rising after dinner just behind the summit of Weisshorn make us soon forget the inconveniences. The 28th is scheduled as the most challenging, in which the group will split: the less experienced or less fit mountaineers will point to the summit of the Bishorn (4153 m), while the others, having had to give up the inaccessible Weisshorn, will point to the Tête de Milon (3693 m) along a rocky ridge, the Crête de Milon, of almost 700 m in altitude, with steps of 4th and 5th degree, which starts at 2980 but can be reached going down much further along the path of access to the shelter. Given the difficulty of climbing at high altitudes, each guide will have only one client, while Marco will always make an independent roped party assuring his wife Sara and his nephew. Once had a quick breakfast at 5, observing the incredible rules imposed by the sour “guardienne”, we immediately divide into two groups, greeting in the light of the front lamps: the smaller goes up and the larger..
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