Plus-Size Men: Perceptions of Available Clothing and Models Used to Market the Clothing
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Iowa State University Capstones, Theses and Graduate Theses and Dissertations Dissertations 2020 Plus-size men: Perceptions of available clothing and models used to market the clothing Melissa Lynne Thompson Iowa State University Follow this and additional works at: https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/etd Recommended Citation Thompson, Melissa Lynne, "Plus-size men: Perceptions of available clothing and models used to market the clothing" (2020). Graduate Theses and Dissertations. 18413. https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/etd/18413 This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Iowa State University Capstones, Theses and Dissertations at Iowa State University Digital Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in Graduate Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of Iowa State University Digital Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Plus-size men: Perceptions of available clothing and models used to market the clothing by Melissa Lynne Thompson A dissertation submitted to the graduate faculty in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY Major: Apparel, Merchandising and Design Program of Study Committee: Ellen McKinney, Major Professor Elena Karpova Linda Niehm Amy Bix Beatriz Pereira The student author, whose presentation of the scholarship herein was approved by the program of study committee, is solely responsible for the content of this dissertation. The Graduate College will ensure this dissertation is globally accessible and will not permit alterations after a degree is conferred. Iowa State University Ames, Iowa 2020 Copyright © Melissa Lynne Thompson, 2020. All rights reserved. ii TABLE OF CONTENTS Page ABSTRACT ................................................................................................................................... iv CHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION ....................................................................................................1 Background ................................................................................................................................ 1 Body Positive Movement ..................................................................................................... 1 Fashion Industry Attitudes toward Plus Size Clothing ........................................................ 3 Availability of Plus-Size Clothing for Men and Women ..................................................... 4 Plus Size Models .................................................................................................................. 7 Purpose ...................................................................................................................................... 9 Research Questions .................................................................................................................... 9 CHAPTER 2. REVIEW OF LITERATURE .................................................................................11 Introduction.............................................................................................................................. 11 Sizing Systems for Men’s Clothing ......................................................................................... 11 Use of Fit Models and Grading in the Development of Clothing Sizes .................................. 14 Efforts to improve the fit of men’s apparel ........................................................................ 17 Custom clothing and subscription services ........................................................................ 18 Need for changes in the fit of men’s clothing .................................................................... 19 Satisfaction of Men with Clothing ........................................................................................... 19 Utilitarian vs. Hedonic reasons for apparel shopping ........................................................ 20 Role of Models in Advertising and Selling Clothing .............................................................. 22 Impact of Models in Advertising on Consumers Perceptions of Clothing Brands ................. 26 History of Appearance Norms and Evolution of the Ideal Body for Men............................... 27 Current Male Body Sizes in the U.S. Population .................................................................... 29 Body Image and Body Positivity ............................................................................................. 31 Body positivity ................................................................................................................... 33 Theoretical Perspectives .......................................................................................................... 34 Festinger: Social Comparison Theory ................................................................................ 35 Bourdieu: Social Capital and the body ............................................................................... 36 Postrational feminist thought on the body .......................................................................... 38 The Long Tail ..................................................................................................................... 40 CHAPTER 3. METHOD ...............................................................................................................42 Sample and Data Collection .................................................................................................... 43 Data Analysis ........................................................................................................................... 44 First cycle or open coding .................................................................................................. 46 Second cycle or Axial Coding ............................................................................................ 46 Theory building .................................................................................................................. 47 The Role of the Researcher and Theoretical Perspectives....................................................... 47 CHAPTER 4. FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION ...........................................................................49 Overview of Participants ......................................................................................................... 50 Major Themes .......................................................................................................................... 50 iii Overall Shopping Experience .................................................................................................. 52 Reasons for Shopping ......................................................................................................... 52 Retailers Shopped at Most Frequently ..................................................................................... 56 Participants’ Experiences with Custom Clothing and Subscription Services ......................... 57 Weight and Appearance as Factors in the Shopping Experience ............................................ 59 Experiences with the Fit of Big and Tall Clothing .................................................................. 61 Lack of selection and style options .................................................................................... 62 Size Consistency ...................................................................................................................... 64 Price and Overall Value of Big and Tall Clothing .................................................................. 67 Proportions and Grading Standards ......................................................................................... 69 Appearance as a Factor in Clothing Choice ............................................................................ 71 Overall satisfaction with one’s body .................................................................................. 71 Participant Experiences with Fashion Models ......................................................................... 76 Awareness of Plus Size Models in the Media ......................................................................... 76 Experience with brands that use plus size models ............................................................. 81 Influence of plus size models on brand perception and patronage..................................... 83 Awareness of the BPM and its Effect on Appearance and Clothing Decisions ...................... 86 Overall awareness of the BPM ........................................................................................... 87 The BPM’s Effect on Participant’s Bodies and Clothing Choice............................................ 89 Summary .................................................................................................................................. 91 CHAPTER 5. CONCLUSIONS ....................................................................................................93 Overall Shopping Experience .................................................................................................. 94 Experience with Plus Size Clothing and Fit ............................................................................ 95 Appearance as a Factor in Clothing Choice ............................................................................ 96 Experiences with Models and Advertisements that Use Plus Size Models ............................