Reproducing 1920s Makeup Application

by Anne Marie Firley

Cosmetic application the 1920s marks the beginning of daily use of make-up by the average woman. While still not greatly accepted by polite society, discrete cosmetic application was beginning to be promoted in beauty culture books. In order to reproduce accurately cosemetic application during the 1920s, you’ll need these products: cream rouge for cheeks, face powder, lip rouge (lipstick), eyebrow brush or eyebrow pencil, brow and lash darkener (brow shadow/mascara), and eyelid darkener (eyeshadow).

.

The quality and texture of cosmetic products have changed in the last 80 years; therefore, certain accommodations will have to be made. Foundation and concealer, widely used today as a method of evening out the coloring of the skin, was not in use during the 1920s. If you feel that you require these products, use them sparingly. Proper application requires not only the correct method, but also procedure. A basic rule is all liquid-based products are applied before an powder-based products. If you a cream or liquid-based rouge, you will apply this first. Powder- based rouges seem to be more widely available today. If you are using a powder-based rouge, you will apply it after you powder your face.

Powder is applied with a puff. Load your puff with powder that is a color closest to your natural skin tone. Press gen- tly into the surface of your skin. Lightly brush off any access with a cotton ball. If you are using powder-based rouge, dab a cotton ball into the rouge and apply to the iapplei of the cheeks. The iapplei is the circular pad of flesh at the tip of your cheekbone that is created when you smile. Smile hard while you apply by pressing rouge to the iapplei of your cheeks in a circular motion blending to nothing at the perimeter of the iapplei.

If you are using a cream or liquid-based rouge, appy the rouge in a circular motion to the iapplei of your cheeks, blending well. Remember the coloring created should look natural. Then apply powder in the method described above.

In order to dress the eyes, first brush the powder out of your eyebrows with an eyebrow brush (a small, stiff brush similar to a toothbrush) dipped in water. While the refined look of the 1920s promotes the plucked brow look, one can create a stream-lined brow with proper grooming and shaping. You may use a cake brow shadow or eyebrow pencil to slightly darken and refine the brow line. With a damp brush, load the bristles with color two shades darker than your natural hair color. Apply the color to the hairs of your eyebrows being careful not to touch the skin. Touch the outer edges of your eyelashes with this same brush. Make sure the paste created with the shadow and damp brush dries a bit before application; otherwise, the hairs will stick together. You may choose to use an eyebrow pencil and liquid mas- cara.

Eyeshadow is applied only to the eyelids. Browns are recom- mended for most coloring. Only women with very dark or black hair should use black eyeshadow. Blue shadow is recom- mended for blondes. Please note that irridescents and frosted shadows did not exist in the 1920s.

Lip rouge is applied last. Lip rouge in the 1920s was true, bright red. It was recommended that lip rouge should be applied heavily in the desired shape, then blotted.

About the Author

Annamarie Firley is the co-creator of reVamp. Created in 1998, reVamp is the fusing of an abiding interest in swing dance and the always superior styling of vintage fashion. Centering on clothing inspired by designs from 1910-1950, reVamp offers all the elegance and beauty of bygone eras in clothing that can be worn comfortably in a contemporary context.