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Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist March 2012
INDEX TO VOLUME 65 Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist April 2011-March 2012 INDEX BY FEATURE/ Signature Techniques Part 1 Resin Earrings and Pendant, PROJECT/DEPARTMENT of 2, 20, 09/10-11 30, 08-11 Signature Techniques Part 2 Sagenite Intarsia Pendant, 50, With title, page number, of 2, 18, 11-11 04-11 month, and year published Special Event Sales, 22, 08-11 Silver Clay and Wire Ring, 58, When to Saw Your Rough, 74, 03-12 FEATURE ARTICLES Smokin’*, 43, 09/10-11 01/02-12 Argentium® Tips, 50, 03-12 Spinwheel, 20, 08-11 Arizona Opal, 22, 01/02-12 PROJECTS/DEMOS/FACET Stacking Ring Trio, 74, Basic Files, 36, 11-11 05/06-11 DESIGNS Brachiopod Agate, 26, 04-11 Sterling Safety Pin, 22, 12-11 Alabaster Bowls, 54, 07-11 Create Your Best Workspace, Swirl Step Cut Revisited, 72, Amethyst Crystal Cross, 34, 28, 11-11 01/02-12 Cut Together, 66, 01/02-12 12-11 Tabbed Fossil Coral Pendant, Deciphering Chinese Writing Copper and Silver Clay 50, 01/02-12 Linked Bracelet, 48, 07-11 12, 07-11 Stone, 78, 01/02-12 Torch Fired Enamel Medallion Site of Your Own, A, 12, 03-12 Easier Torchwork, 43, 11-11 Copper Wire Cuff with Silver Necklace, 33, 09/10-11 Elizabeth Taylor’s Legendary Wire “Inlay,” 28, 07-11 Trillion Diamonds Barion, 44, SMOKIN’ STONES Jewels, 58, 12-11 Coquina Pendant, 44, 05/06-11 Alabaster, 52, 07-11 Ethiopian Opal, 28, 01/02-12 01/02-12 Turquoise and Pierced Silver Ametrine, 44, 09/10-11 Find the Right Findings, 46, Corrugated Copper Pendant, Bead Bracelet – Plus!, 44, Coquina, 42, 01/02-12 09/10-11 24, 05/06-11 04-11 Fossilized Ivory, 24, 04-11
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The Good Germans the Hemmerles, Munich’S First Family of Jewelry, Design Baubles That Are Truly One of a Kind
Clockwise from left: Chris- tian and Stefan Hemmerle at home; Hemmerle’s 18k white gold, black iron and aquamarine ring, 18k red gold, moonstone, amethyst and sapphire brooch, and 18k white gold, red patinated copper, spinel and amethyst earrings, prices available upon request, at Hemmerle, 011.800.2422.6000. ccessories ∂lash ccessories a W The Good Germans The Hemmerles, Munich’s first family of jewelry, design baubles that are truly one of a kind. Photographs by S t e f a n K o r t e t’s not every client request that 230 pieces of haute joaillerie each year in its inspires a designer to branch off into a 12-artisan Munich workshop, is renowned direction he never before imagined— for its austere architectural settings ren- I and subsequently to develop an entirely dered in unorthodox materials including new style in doing so. But that’s exactly how copper, stainless steel, brass, aluminum and the German jewelry house Hemmerle came rare woods, and for its use of exquisitely to enjoy its current status as one of today’s cut colored gemstones. The heaviness of most inventive and sought-after jewelers. a masculine charcoal-hued iron band, for It all began in 1995, when a prominent instance, only enhances the sharp angles of Munich art collector commissioned Ste- an emerald-cut 40-carat electric blue aqua- fan Hemmerle, a third-generation jeweler, marine ring, while the warm hues of orange to create a birthday present for his wife, a and red patinated copper perfectly com- woman who detested flashy gems.
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Phenomenal Gemstones Possess Striking Optical Effects, Making Them Truly a Sight for Sore Eyes
THE PHENOMENAL PROPERTIES OF GEMS Phenomenal gemstones possess striking optical effects, making them truly a sight for sore eyes. Here is GIA’s guide to understanding what makes each phenomenon so uniquely brilliant. ASTERISM CROSSING BANDS OF REFLECTED LIGHT CREATE A SIX-RAYED STAR-LIKE APPEARANCE. ASTERISM OCCURS IN THE DOME OF A CABOCHON, AND CAN BE SEEN IN GEMS LIKE RUBIES AND SAPPHIRES. ADULARESCENCE THE SAME SCATTERING OF LIGHT THAT MAKES THE SKY BLUE CREATES A MILKY, BLUISH-WHITE GLOW, LIKE MOONLIGHT SHINING THROUGH A VEIL OF CLOUDS. MOONSTONE IS THE ONLY GEM THAT DISPLAYS IT. AVENTURESCENCE FOUND IN NATURAL GEMS LIKE SUNSTONE FELDSPAR AND AVENTURINE QUARTZ, IT DISPLAYS A GLITTERY EFFECT CAUSED BY LIGHT REFLECTING FROM SMALL, FLAT INCLUSIONS. CHATOYANCY OTHERWISE KNOWN AS THE “CAT’S EYE” EFFECT, BANDS OF LIGHT ARE CAUSED BY THE REFLECTION OF LIGHT FROM MANY PARALLEL, NEEDLE-LIKE INCLUSIONS INSIDE A CABOCHON. NOTABLE GEMS THAT DISPLAY CHATOYANCY INCLUDE CAT’S EYE TOURMALINE AND CAT’S EYE CHRYSOBERYL. IRIDESCENCE ALSO SEEN IN SOAP BUBBLES AND OIL SLICKS, IT’S A RAINBOW EFFECT THAT IS CREATED WHEN LIGHT IS BROKEN UP INTO DIFFERENT COLORS. LOOK FOR IT IN FIRE AGATE AND OPAL AMMONITE (KNOWN BY THE TRADE AS AMMOLITE). LABR ADORESCENCE A BROAD FLASH OF COLOR THAT APPEARS IN LABRADORITE FELDSPAR, IT’S CAUSED BY LIGHT INTERACTING WITH THIN LAYERS IN THE STONE, AND DISAPPEARS WHEN THE GEM IS MOVED. INSIDER’S TIP: THE MOST COMMON PHENOMENAL COLOR IN LABRADORITE IS BLUE. PLAY OF COLOR THE FLASHING RAINBOW-LIKE COLORS IN OPAL THAT FLASH AT YOU AS YOU TURN THE STONE OR MOVE AROUND IT.
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Get Reactive in System 96!
Get Reactive in System 96! Uroboros has created two unique glass formulas for System 96 that are designed to create an interface color, or a reac on, when melted against certain other colors. This occurs when ions from the two adjacent glasses migrate and mingle when the gl asses become hot and ß uid. Given the right glass chemistry, the comingled ions form a very thin colored line, or reac on. Since our formulas react to create a no ceably reddish hue we named them Red Reac ves: as in Red Reac ve Transparent, and Red Reac ve Opal. The primary ingredient needed in a glass to generate a reac on color with our Reac ve glass is Copper. Copper is present in many blue and blue-green glass colors, but in some cases in too low a concentra on to create a no ceable reac on. For simplicity, all System 96 colors have been graded for their poten al to react into three categories: Strong, Medium, and Mild. See them all listed in the chart on the back of this page. You will Þ nd that the intensity of the reac on color will get stronger with longer, ho er, or repeat Þ rings. This is because the copper ions have more me to mingle with their friendly reac ve partners in the adjacent glass. The chart rankings are based on a typical single Þ ring cycle. You could get a Medium reac on from a color graded as Mild by Þ ring it ho er, or Þ ring mul ple mes.
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Exceptional Works of Art 2017 PUSHKIN ANTIQUES – MAYFAIR –
Exceptional works of art 2017 PUSHKIN ANTIQUES – MAYFAIR – At Pushkin Antiques we specialise in unique statement Each item is professionally selected and inspected pieces of antique silver as well as branded luxury items, to ensure we can give our customers a guarantee of stylish interior articles and objects d’art. authenticity and the required peace of mind when buying from us. Since the inception of our company, we’ve been at the forefront of online sales for high end, quality antiques. Our retail gallery is located on the lower floor of the world Our presence on most major platforms has allowed us famous Grays Antiques Centre in the heart of Mayfair. to consistently connect exquisite pieces with the most discerning collectors and interior decorators from all over the world with particular focus on the demands of the markets from the Far East, the Americas, Europe & Russia. www.pushkinantiques.com [email protected] We aim to provide the highest quality in every department: rare hand crafted articles, accurate item descriptions (+44) 02085 544 300 to include the history and provenance of each item, an (+44) 07595 595 079 extensive photography report, as well as a smooth buying process thus facilitating an efficient and pleasant online Shop 111, Lower Ground Floor, Grays Antiques Market. experience. 58 Davies St, London. W1K 5AB, UK. ALEX PUSHKIN OLGA PUSHKINA DUMITRU TIRA Founder & Director Managing Director Photographer Contents 6 ENGLISH SILVER 42 CHINESE SILVER 56 JAPANESE SILVER 66 INDIAN SILVER 78 BURMESE SILVER 86 CONTINENTAL SILVER 100 FRENCH SILVER 108 GERMAN SILVER 118 RUSSIAN SILVER 132 OBJECTS OF VERTU English Silver The style and technique in manufacturing silver during Hester Bateman (1708-1794) was one of the greatest this era (over 100 years) changed radically, reflecting silversmiths operating in this style, she is the most the variations in taste, society, costumes, economic and renowned and appreciated female silversmith of all time.
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Stuller.Com 800 877 7777
Above, top to bottom: 71812 Genuine Opal and Diamond Ring, 7x5mm, 1 ⁄5 CTW, 14K Rose, 158, 33, $959. Mounting #71812, $415. | 51730 Beaded Stackable Ring, 2.2mm, 14K Rose, $309 | 123038 Round-Shape Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 ct center (6.5mm), 1 ⁄5 CTW, 14K White, 32, size 7, $1,359. Mounting #123038, $865. | 652286 Diamond 1 Anniversary Band, ⁄10 CTW, 14K White, 544, size 7, $595 | 68662 Diamond Heart 1 Necklace, ⁄10 CTW, 7.8x5.7mm, 14K Rose, 432, 18", $775 Front cover, clockwise, from left: 85773 Be Posh® Engravable Heart Pendant, 16x14mm, 14K Yellow, $345. 86179 Posh Mommy® Imitation July Birthstone Charm, 4mm, 14K Yellow, 361, $195. CH123 Diamond-Cut Cable Chain, 1mm, 14K Yellow, 16", $119 6497 White Freshwater Cultured Pearl 1 and Diamond Ring, 4-4.5mm, ⁄5 CTW, 6mm width, 14K Yellow, 16, 33, $995. Mounting #6497, $409. | 123021 Oval-Shape Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 1 ct center 1 (8x6mm), ⁄5 CTW, 14K White, 32, size 7, $1,349. Mounting #123021, $525. | 123186 Diamond 3 Anniversary Band, ⁄8 CTW, 14K Yellow, 32, size 7, $1,289. Mounting #123186, $435. Stuller.com 800 877 7777 Prices are suggested retail at triple key based on $1,100 platinum, $1,350 gold, and $19 silver. | Items shown larger than actual size. | For current pricing and availability and to see the entire collection, visit Stuller.com. 01/2017 MKTGMEDIA:9810 FJ7330 Valentine's Day Brochure 2017.indd 1 12/6/16 12:00 PM VALENTINE’S DAY 2017 Gifts for "Sweethearts Eye Candy Looks You Crave Cool Treats FJ7330 Valentine's Day Brochure 2017.indd 1 12/6/16 12:00 PM “As you explore all of our Gifts for Sweethearts, you’re in for a real treat: irresistible jewelry selections deliciously displayed.
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Distinctive Designs
Distinctive Designs Brides Ring in an Era of Self-Expression by Stacey Marcus Diamond rings have been sporting the hands of newly can elevate a traditional setting to an entirely new level. While engaged women since ancient times. In the mid 1940s, diamonds are always in vogue for engagement rings, millen- DeBeers revived the ritual with its famous “Diamonds Are nials are also opting for nontraditional stones, such as color- Forever” campaign. Today’s brides are blazing new trails by changing alexandrite, beautiful tanzanite, black opal, and even selecting nontraditional wedding rings that express their aquamarine. We are in an age when anything goes, and brides individual style. are embracing the idea of individuality and self-expression!” True Colors says Jordan Fine, CEO of JFINE. “Brides today want to be unique and they don’t mind taking Kathryn Money, vice president of strategy and merchandising chances with colors, settings, and stones. When it comes to at Brilliant Earth agrees: “Customers are seeking products that choosing an engagement ring, natural pink, blue, and even express their individuality and are increasingly drawn towards green diamonds are trending. These precious and rare dia- uniqueness. They want a ring that isn’t like everyone else’s, monds originate from only a few mines in the world, and they which we’re seeing manifested in many different ways, such 34 Spring 2018 BRIDE&GROOM as choosing a distinctive ring setting, using colored gemstones in lieu of a diamond, using a fancy (non-round) diamond, or opting for rose gold.” Money adds that 16% of respondents in a recent survey they conducted favored a colored gemstone engagement ring over a diamond.
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F I N E C R a F T J E W E L R Y C O L L E C T I O N 2014
F i n e C r a f t J e w e l r y C o l l e c t i o n 2014 www.MarthaSeelyDesign.com y jewelry is always a reflection of the art forms that have inspired me over the years: Fiber, fashion, and the grace of natural forms; The boldness of architectural concepts; The simplicity of cold connections, and the kinetic energy of objects in M motion. It expresses in precious metal and gemstones, the strongest influences in my life as a designer: clothing/costume design, art history (with a special fondness for the Art Nouveau /Art Deco movements) and the uniqueness and strength of individual style. Floral Nouveau was inspired by my love of the Art Nouveau (and Deco) movement of the late Curved lines nineteenth century. It is contemporary and feminine. The woven wire combines my love of fiber with the asymmetrical, sinuous vines used widely within Art Nouveau art and design. and vines, woven Floral Architecture is layered contemporary jewelry with simple construction techniques where together. stones seem to float in their floral frames. The floral shapes are simple, layered and riveted together, sometimes flat and sometimes hammered and sculptural. Hammered and Echo Structures are multi-layers of simple, architectural shapes. Rivets. Textures. Con- sometimes sculptural trasts. Brilliant colored stones. Modern and clean. flowers. Formed and Winged Secrets are edgy, formed, textured and riveted flying insects. Sometimes the wings riveted flying insects. move, sometimes not. They are made in silver and gold with large faceted gemstone heads. Everything is handmade, hand formed and one of a kind.
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The World of Pink Diamonds and Identifying Them
GEMOLOGY GEMOLOGY as to what dealers can do to spot them using standard, geologists from Ashton Joint Venture found certain indicator The World of Pink Diamonds inexpensive instruments. The commercial signifcance of minerals (such as ilmenite, chromite, chrome diopside, the various types will also be touched on. and pyrope garnet) in stream-gravel concentrates which indicated the presence of diamond-bearing host rocks. and Identifying Them Impact of Auction Sales Lamproites are special ultrapotassic magnesium-rich In the late 1980s, the public perception surrounding fancy- mantle-derived volcanic rocks with low CaO, Al2O3, Na2O colored diamonds began to change when the 0.95-carat and high K2O. Leucite, glass, K-richterite, K-feldspar and Cr- By Branko Deljanin, Dr Adolf Peretti, ‘Hancock Red’ from Brazil was sold for almost $1 million per spinel are unique to lamproites and are not associated with and Matthias Alessandri carat at a Christie’s auction. This stone was studied by one kimberlites. The diamonds in lamproites are considered to be of the authors (Dr. Adolf Peretti) at that time. Since then, xenocrysts and derived from parts of the lithospheric mantle Dr. Peretti has documented the extreme impact this one that lies above the regions of lamproite genesis. Kimberlites sale has had on subsequent prices and the corresponding are also magmatic rocks but have a different composition recognition of fancy diamonds as a desirable asset class. The and could contain non-Argyle origin pink diamonds. demand for rare colors increased and the media began to play a more active role in showcasing new and previously Impact of Mining Activities unknown such stones.
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Jackson's Auction
Jackson's Auction Collector's Choice: Antiques & Collectibles Wednesday - September 19, 2012 Collector's Choice: Antiques & Collectibles 675: REED & BARTON STERLING SILVER FLATWARE, 148 PIECES USD 4,000 - 6,000 A LARGE 148 PIECE SET OF REED AND BARTON FRANCIS 1ST STERLING SILVER FLATWARE, MID 20TH CENTURY. Comprising 24 table knives, 24 table forks, 24 salad forks, 35 teaspoons, 13 cream soup spoons, 5 tablespoons, 12 individual butter knives and 11 various serving pieces. Contained in two fitted chests, not matching. Total weight approximately 194 troy oz. 676: DUTCH SILVER EPERGNE, 1853 USD 1,000 - 1,500 A VERY FINE DUTCH SILVER AND CUT CRYSTAL CENTERPIECE EPERGNE, 1853. Stamp hallmarks including "Z&B" probably for Pieter Zollner and William Beijoer (1849-1871) comprising a silver entwining stem with extending foliage supporting two scallop cut crystal trays below a tulip blossom finial raised on a scalloped floral repousse and chased bell form base. Additionally stamped "Pde Meyer te'Hage." Silver weight approximately 34.76 troy oz. Height 22.5 inches (57cm). 677: WALLACE ROSE POINT STERLING SILVER FLATWARE, 63 PIECES USD 1,200 - 1,800 A VERY FINE SET OF WALLACE ROSE POINT STERLING SILVER FLATWARE, MID 20TH CENTURY. 63 pieces comprising 10 each place knives, place forks and salad forks, 20 teaspoons, 10 individual butters, a gravy ladle, sugar shell and pastry server. All contained in a fitted mahogany chest with drawer. Weight approximately 60 troy oz. 678: A FINE CONTINENTAL SILVER BACCHANALIAN FOOTED BOWL USD 200 - 400 A FINE CONTINENTAL SILVER BACCHANALIAN FOOTED BOWL, 20TH CENTURY. With embossed and chased facial mask within hammered scalloped lobes and grape vine rim in deep relief.
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Recognized by Fashion Industry Professionals for Their Impeccable
FLATBACK STONES Flatback Stones Recognized by fashion industry professionals for their impeccable light dispersion and extreme durability, Preciosa Flatback Stones come in a rainbow of captivating colors and coatings. Our flagship Chaton Rose MAXIMA can reflect up to 264 unique rays of light, the most of any competing stone on the market, making this the world’s most brilliant flatback. 65 Colors Coatings Numerical Order Crystal Light Topaz Crystal AB 00030 . Crystal 10220 . Smoked Topaz 50630 . Shamrock 00030 10020 200 AB 00030 200 AB . Crystal AB 10330 . Light Colorado Topaz 50730 . Emerald 00030 213 Lav .......... Crystal Lava 10430 . Gold Beryl 51000 . Chrysolite Opal Jet Topaz Crystal Argent Flare 00030 219 Snr .......... Crystal Sunrise 20020 . Light Amethyst 60000 . Aquamarine 23980 10070 242 AgF 00030 231 BlF . Crystal Blue Flare 20030 . Smoked Amethyst 60010 . Aqua Bohemica 00030 234 Ven.......... Crystal Venus 20050 . Amethyst 60100 . Indicolite White Opal Light Colorado Topaz Crystal Velvet* 00030 235 Hon . Crystal Honey 20410 . Tanzanite 60230 . Blue Zircon 01000 10330 279 Vel 00030 237 Lag.......... Crystal Lagoon 20490 . Purple Velvet 60310 . Capri Blue Black Diamond Light Smoked Topaz Crystal Honey 00030 239 BdF.......... Crystal Blond Flare 21110 . Amethyst Opal 70010 . Rose 40010 10210 235 Hon 00030 242 AgF.......... Crystal Argent Flare 23980 . Jet 70020 . Light Rose 00030 244 GdH . Crystal Golden Honey 23980 200 AB . Jet AB 70040 . Indian Pink Smoked Sapphire Smoked Topaz Crystal Golden Honey 00030 251 RdF.......... Crystal Red Flame 23980 230 BrF .......... Jet Brown Flare 70220 . Pink Sapphire 30010 10220 244 GdH 00030 259 PeG . Crystal Peacock Green 23980 232 SiF . Jet Silver Flare 70230 .
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JEWELS of the EDWARDIANS by Elise B
JEWELS OF THE EDWARDIANS By Elise B. Misiorowski and Nancy K. Hays Although the reign of King Edward VII of ver the last decade, interest in antique and period jew- Great Britain was relatively short (1902- elry has grown dramatically. Not only have auction 1910), the age that bears his name produced 0 houses seen a tremendous surge in both volume of goods distinctive jewelry and ushered in several sold and prices paid, but antique dealers and jewelry retail- new designs and manufacturing techniques. ers alikereportthat sales inthis area of the industry are During this period, women from the upper- excellent and should continue to be strong (Harlaess et al., most echelons of society wore a profusion of 1992). As a result, it has become even more important for extravagant jewelry as a way of demon- strating their wealth and rank. The almost- jewelers and independent appraisers to understand-and exclusive use of platinum, the greater use of know how to differentiate between-the many styles of pearls, and the sleady supply of South period jewelry on the market. African diamonds created a combination Although a number of excellent books have been writ- that will forever characterize Edwardian ten recently on various aspects of period jewelry, there are jewels. The Edwardian age, truly the last so many that the search for information is daunting. The era of the ruling classes, ended dramatically purpose of this article is to provide an overview of one type with the onset of World War I. of period jewelry, that of the Edwardian era, an age of pros- perity for the power elite at the turn of the 19th century.
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