Beach Ridges — Definitions and Significance
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Load more
Recommended publications
-
Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches Tiffany Roberts University of South Florida, [email protected]
University of South Florida Scholar Commons Graduate Theses and Dissertations Graduate School January 2012 Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches Tiffany Roberts University of South Florida, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: http://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd Part of the American Studies Commons, Geology Commons, and the Geomorphology Commons Scholar Commons Citation Roberts, Tiffany, "Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches" (2012). Graduate Theses and Dissertations. http://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/4216 This Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at Scholar Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in Graduate Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of Scholar Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches by Tiffany M. Roberts A dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Department of Geology College of Arts and Sciences University of South Florida Major Professor: Ping Wang, Ph.D. Bogdan P. Onac, Ph.D. Nathaniel Plant, Ph.D. Jack A. Puleo, Ph.D. Julie D. Rosati, Ph.D. Date of Approval: July 12, 2012 Keywords: barrier island beaches, beach morphodynamics, beach nourishment, longshore sediment transport, cross-shore sediment transport. Copyright © 2012, Tiffany M. Roberts Dedication To my eternally supportive mother, Darlene, my brother and sister, Trey and Amber, my aunt Pat, and the friends who have been by my side through every challenge and triumph. -
Understanding Our Coastal Environment
Preface The South Carolina Beachfront Management Act In the Beginning The Coastal Zone Management Act of 1977 was enacted to protect our coastal resources from unwise development. This legislation served the beaches well during its first decade, but as South Carolina became a more popular tourist destination, it became apparent that the portion of the Act that dealt with beaches was inadequate. As development crept seaward, seawalls and rock revetments proliferated, damaging the public’s beach. In many areas there was no beach left at high tide. In some areas, there was no beach at low tide, either. In 1988 and again in 1990, South Carolina’s legislators took action and amended and strengthened the Coastal Zone Management Act. The resulting Beachfront Management Act protects South Carolina’s sandy shores by increasing the state’s jurisdiction and encouraging development to move landward. South Carolina’s Beachfront Jurisdiction To find the boundaries of this jurisdiction, staff from the Office of Ocean and Coastal Resource Management must first locate the baseline, which is the crest of the primary oceanfront sand dune. Where there are no dunes, the agency uses scientific methods to determine where the natural dune would lie if natural or man-made occurrences had not interfered with nature’s dune building process. The setback line is the most landward boundary and is measured from the baseline. To find the depth of the setback line, the beach’s average annual erosion rate for the past forty years is calculated and multiplied by forty. For example, if the erosion rate is one foot per year, the results will be a setback line that stretches forty feet from the baseline. -
Stratigraphic Studies of a Late Quaternary Barrier-Type Coastal Complex, Mustang Island-Corpus Christi Bay Area, South Texas Gulf Coast
Stratigraphic Studies of a Late Quaternary Barrier-Type Coastal Complex, Mustang Island-Corpus Christi Bay Area, South Texas Gulf Coast U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY PROFESSIONAL PAPER 1328 COVER: Landsat image showing a regional view of the South Texas coastal zone. IUR~AtJ Of ... lt~f<ARY I. liBRARY tPotC Af•a .VAStf. , . ' U. S. BUREAU eF MINES Western Field Operation Center FEB 1919S7 East 360 3rd Ave. IJ.tA~t tETUI~· Spokane, Washington .99~02. m UIIM» S.tratigraphic Studies of a Late Quaternary Barrier-Type Coastal Complex, Mustang Island Corpus Christi Bay Area, South Texas Gulf Coast Edited by GERALD L. SHIDELER A. Stratigraphic Studies of a Late Quaternary Coastal Complex, South Texas-Introduction and Geologic Framework, by Gerald L. Shideler B. Seismic and Physical Stratigraphy of Late Quaternary Deposits, South Texas Coastal Complex, by Gerald L. Shideler · C. Ostracodes from Late Quaternary Deposits, South Texas Coastal Complex, by Thomas M. Cronin D. Petrology and Diagenesis of Late Quaternary Sands, South Texas Coastal Complex, by Romeo M. Flores and C. William Keighin E. Geochemistry and Mineralogy of Late Quaternary Fine-grained Sediments, South Texas Coastal Complex, by Romeo M. Flores and Gerald L. Shideler U.S. G E 0 L 0 G I CAL SURVEY P R 0 FE S S I 0 N A L p·A PER I 3 2 8 UNrfED S~fA~fES GOVERNMENT PRINTING ·OFFICE, WASHINGTON: 1986 DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR DONALD PAUL HODEL, Secretary U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY Dallas L. Peck, Director Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Main entry under title: Stratigraphic studies of a late Quaternary barrier-type coastal complex, Mustang Island-Corpus Christi Bay area, South Texas Gulf Coast. -
CLASSIFICATION of CALIFORNIA ESTUARIES BASED on NATURAL CLOSURE PATTERNS: TEMPLATES for RESTORATION and MANAGEMENT Revised
CLASSIFICATION OF CALIFORNIA ESTUARIES BASED ON NATURAL CLOSURE PATTERNS: TEMPLATES FOR RESTORATION AND MANAGEMENT Revised David K. Jacobs Eric D. Stein Travis Longcore Technical Report 619.a - August 2011 Classification of California Estuaries Based on Natural Closure Patterns: Templates for Restoration and Management David K. Jacobs1, Eric D. Stein2, and Travis Longcore3 1UCLA Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology 2Southern California Coastal Water Research Project 3University of Southern California - Spatial Sciences Institute August 2010 Revised August 2011 Technical Report 619.a ABSTRACT Determining the appropriate design template is critical to coastal wetland restoration. In seasonally wet and semi-arid regions of the world coastal wetlands tend to close off from the sea seasonally or episodically, and decisions regarding estuarine mouth closure have far reaching implications for cost, management, and ultimate success of coastal wetland restoration. In the past restoration planners relied on an incomplete understanding of the factors that influence estuarine mouth closure. Consequently, templates from other climatic/physiographic regions are often inappropriately applied. The first step to addressing this issue is to develop a classification system based on an understanding of the processes that formed the estuaries and thus define their pre-development structure. Here we propose a new classification system for California estuaries based on the geomorphic history and the dominant physical processes that govern the formation of the estuary space or volume. It is distinct from previous estuary closure models, which focused primarily on the relationship between estuary size and tidal prism in constraining closure. This classification system uses geologic origin, exposure to littoral process, watershed size and runoff characteristics as the basis of a conceptual model that predicts likely frequency and duration of closure of the estuary mouth. -
Coastal Geology of the Holocene Progradant Plains of Sandy Beach
Quaternary and Environmental Geosciences (2021) 12(1):1-17 Coastal geology of the Holocene progradant plains of sandy beach ridges in Santa Catarina state, Southeastern Brazil Geologia costeira das planícies progradantes holocênicas de cordões litorâneos arenosos no estado de Santa Catarina, sul do Brasil Norberto Olmiro Horn Filho Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina [email protected] Abstract Beach ridges are indicators of supratidal and intertidal depositional environments built by waves. The major factors that influence on the ridge’s formation is related to antecedent topography, sediment supply, sedimentary balance, and substrate gradient. They consist of siliciclastic and/or bioclastic sediments whose grain size varies from very coarse sand to very fine sand. At Santa Catarina state, progradant plains are related to Pleistocene and Holocene regressive marine processes. The Holocene marine terraces, object of this study, predominate in the coastal plains of Passo de Torres, Pinheira, Jurerê, Tijucas and Navegantes, presenting heights from 3 to 6 m in elevations and 1 to 2 m in depressions. The ridge deposits are constituted by sandy sediments, medium to very fine, composed by quartz, opaque and heavy minerals and shell fragments. The runnel deposits comprehend silt-sand-clayey sediments enriched by organic matter. The evolution of Holocene Santa Catarina beach ridges is connected to the regressive events occurred after 5,1 ky BP that indicate the position of paleo coastlines and mean sea level of the Holocene. Key words: Geomorphology; Sedimentology; Coastal evolution. Resumo Os cordões regressivos são indicadores de ambientes deposicionais formados por ondas sob regime de supra e intermarés. Os fatores mais relevantes que influenciam na formação dos cordões estão relacionados à topografia antecedente, suprimento sedimentar, balanço sedimentar e gradiente do substrato. -
EGU2009-7028-1, 2009 EGU General Assembly 2009 © Author(S) 2009
Geophysical Research Abstracts, Vol. 11, EGU2009-7028-1, 2009 EGU General Assembly 2009 © Author(s) 2009 Sea-level proxies extracted from GPR reflection data collected across recently formed berm, beach ridge and swale deposits on the island of Anholt, Denmark L. Nielsen and L. B. Clemmensen University of Copenhagen, Department of Geography and Geology, Copenhagen K, Denmark ([email protected]) GPR reflection data have been collected across the most recent part of a berm, beach ridge and swale system formed during the last 130 years on the northern coast of the island of Anholt, the Kattegat, Denmark. The reflected arrivals have a peak frequency of about 250 MHz and they image the subsurface with a vertical resolution of 0.1–0.2 m to a maximum depth of 5 m below the surface. The berm and beach ridges with maximum heights of about 1.8 m and 1.5 m, respectively, appear as mounded features in the GPR sections. The berm ridge also contains low-angle, seaward dipping reflections. Similar sea-ward dipping reflections are also observed below swales, and current swale surfaces appear to constitute erosion surfaces. Reflections downlapping on a package of reflections, which is interpreted to be representative of upper shoreface deposits, are suggested to constitute good proxies of sea level. Tamura et al. (2008) suggested that similar downlapping reflections may represent a depth level of about 1 m below the mean sea level based on investigations of the Kujukuri strand plain in eastern Japan. We have made 17 depth readings of such downlaps along our 159-m-long profile. -
North Ridge Scenic Byway Geology
GUIDE TO THE NORTH RIDGE SCENIC BYWAY GEOLOGY LANDFORMS The North Ridge Scenic Byway corridor lies in the Erie Lake Plain landform of the Central Lowlands Physiographic Province of the United States (Fenneman 1938; Brockman 2002). The Lake Plain consists of wide expanses of level or nearly level land interrupted only by sandy ridges that are remnants of glacial-lake beaches and by river valleys carved into Paleozoic bedrock. With the exception of the sandy ridges, much of the Lake Plain in Avon and Sheffeld was a dense swamp forest prior to settlement. The North Ridge Scenic Byway follows the northernmost ancient beach ridge as it traverses Sheffeld and Avon at an elevation ranging from 675 to 690 feet above sea level, some 105 to 120 feet above modern Lake Erie. Topography of Sheffeld and Avon Townships as surveyed in 1901, showing North Ridge near the center of the map (courtesy of U.S. Geological Survey, Oberlin, Ohio Quadrangle 1903). 2 GEOLOGY FORMATION OF NORTH RIDGE Approximately 18,000 years ago, the last The chronology of lake stages in the Lake continental glacier blanketed northern Ohio as Erie basin relates a fascinating story of glacial it pushed down from the north to its maximum action, movements of the earth’s crust and southern thrust. The ice sheet reached as far erosion by waves to form the body of water south as Cincinnati, Ohio, then it began to we see today. The story begins nearly 15,000 melt back. As the glacier paused in its retreat, years ago as the last glacier [known as the piles of rock and clay debris [known as end Wisconsinan ice sheet] temporarily halted to moraines] were built up at the ice margins. -
Internal Architecture and Evolution of Bioclastic Beach Ridges in A
Internal architecture and evolution of bioclastic beach ridges in a megatidal chenier plain: Field data and wave flume experiment Pierre Weill, Dominique Mouazé, Bernadette Tessier To cite this version: Pierre Weill, Dominique Mouazé, Bernadette Tessier. Internal architecture and evolution of bioclastic beach ridges in a megatidal chenier plain: Field data and wave flume experiment. Sedimentology, Blackwell Publishing, 2013, 60 (5), pp.1213-1230. 10.1111/sed.12027. hal-00844214 HAL Id: hal-00844214 https://hal-mines-paristech.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00844214 Submitted on 28 Nov 2017 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. Sedimentology (2013) 60, 1213–1230 doi: 10.1111/sed.12027 Internal architecture and evolution of bioclastic beach ridges in a megatidal chenier plain: Field data and wave flume experiment PIERRE WEILL*, DOMINIQUE MOUAZE† and BERNADETTE TESSIER† *MINES ParisTech, Centre de Geosciences, 35 rue Saint-Honore, 77305, Fontainebleau Cedex, France (E-mail: [email protected]) †Morphodynamique Continentale et Coti^ ere, Univ. Caen Basse-Normandie, UMR CNRS 6143, 24 rue des Tilleuls, 14000, Caen, France ABSTRACT Beach ridges in macrotidal environments experience strong multi-annual to multi-decennial fluctuations of tidal inundation. -
A Summary of Historical Shoreline Changes on Beaches of Kauai, Oahu, and Maui, Hawaii Bradley M
Journal of Coastal Research 00 0 000–000 West Palm Beach, Florida Month 0000 A Summary of Historical Shoreline Changes on Beaches of Kauai, Oahu, and Maui, Hawaii Bradley M. Romine and Charles H. Fletcher* Department of Geology and Geophysics www.cerf-jcr.org School of Ocean and Earth Science and Technology University of Hawaii at Manoa POST Building, Suite 701, 1680 East–West Road Honolulu, HI 96822, USA [email protected], [email protected] ABSTRACT ROMINE, B.M. and FLETCHER, C.H., 2012. A summary of historical shoreline changes on beaches of Kauai, Oahu, and Maui; Hawaii. Journal of Coastal Research, 00(0), 000–000. West Palm Beach (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Shoreline change was measured along the beaches of Kauai, Oahu, and Maui (Hawaii) using historical shorelines digitized from aerial photographs and survey charts for the U.S. Geological Survey’s National Assessment of Shoreline Change. To our knowledge, this is the most comprehensive report on shoreline change throughout Hawaii and supplements the limited data on beach changes in carbonate reef–dominated systems. Trends in long-term (early 1900s– present) and short-term (mid-1940s–present) shoreline change were calculated at regular intervals (20 m) along the shore using weighted linear regression. Erosion dominated the shoreline change in Hawaii, with 70% of beaches being erosional (long-term), including 9% (21 km) that was completely lost to erosion (e.g., seawalls), and an average shoreline change rate of 20.11 6 0.01 m/y. Short-term results were somewhat less erosional (63% erosional, average change rate of 20.06 6 0.01 m/y). -
Impacts of Sand Mining on Beaches in Suriname
Impacts of sand mining on beaches in Suriname Braamspunt beach, February 2016 Edward J. Anthony Consultant in Geomorphology and Shoreline Management June, 2016. Background p. 3 Abstract p. 4 Summary of recommendations p. 5 Part 1. The environment, context and formation of sandy beaches in Suriname p. 6 1.1. Introduction p. 7 1.2. The Guianas mud-bank system p. 11 1.3. Cheniers and chenier beaches: natural wave-energy buffers and ecosystems p. 15 1.4. Bank and inter-bank phases, and inter-bank chenier development p. 17 1.5. River mouths and chenier development p. 19 1.6. The Suriname Coastal Plain and long-term chenier development p. 22 Part 2. Recent shoreline changes in Suriname: general morphodynamics, methodology and results for Braamspunt beach p. 27 2.1. Chenier morphodynamics – cross-shore and longshore processes p. 28 2.1. The Maroni and Surniname river-mouth contexts and Braamspunt beach p. 33 2.2. Methodology: recent shoreline changes and evolution of Braamspunt beach p. 35 2.2.1. Mesoscale (multi-decadal changes) p. 35 2.2.2. Field surveys of the morphology and dynamics of Braamspunt beach p. 38 2.3. Recent bank and inter-bank phases on the Suriname coast p. 43 2.3.1. The Maroni-Suriname sector p. 44 2.3.2. The Suriname-Coppename sector p. 44 2.3.3. The Coppename-Corantijn sector p. 45 2.4. Morphodynamics of Braamspunt beach p. 45 2.4.1. Offshore and nearshore hydrodynamic conditions p. 45 2.4.2. Grain-size and sedimentology of Braamspunt beach p. -
Geology of Michigan and the Great Lakes
35133_Geo_Michigan_Cover.qxd 11/13/07 10:26 AM Page 1 “The Geology of Michigan and the Great Lakes” is written to augment any introductory earth science, environmental geology, geologic, or geographic course offering, and is designed to introduce students in Michigan and the Great Lakes to important regional geologic concepts and events. Although Michigan’s geologic past spans the Precambrian through the Holocene, much of the rock record, Pennsylvanian through Pliocene, is miss- ing. Glacial events during the Pleistocene removed these rocks. However, these same glacial events left behind a rich legacy of surficial deposits, various landscape features, lakes, and rivers. Michigan is one of the most scenic states in the nation, providing numerous recre- ational opportunities to inhabitants and visitors alike. Geology of the region has also played an important, and often controlling, role in the pattern of settlement and ongoing economic development of the state. Vital resources such as iron ore, copper, gypsum, salt, oil, and gas have greatly contributed to Michigan’s growth and industrial might. Ample supplies of high-quality water support a vibrant population and strong industrial base throughout the Great Lakes region. These water supplies are now becoming increasingly important in light of modern economic growth and population demands. This text introduces the student to the geology of Michigan and the Great Lakes region. It begins with the Precambrian basement terrains as they relate to plate tectonic events. It describes Paleozoic clastic and carbonate rocks, restricted basin salts, and Niagaran pinnacle reefs. Quaternary glacial events and the development of today’s modern landscapes are also discussed. -
Coastal Barriers - D
COASTAL ZONES AND ESTUARIES – Coastal Barriers - D. M. FitzGerald and I. V. Buynevich COASTAL BARRIERS D. M. FitzGerald and I. V. Buynevich Department of Earth Sciences, Boston University, USA Keywords: barrier, beach, spit, inlet, barrier stratigraphy, barrier evolution Contents 1. Introduction 2. Physical Description 2.1 Beach 2.2 Barrier Interior 2.3 Landward Margin 3. Global Distribution and Tectonic Setting 3.1 General 3.2 Tectonic Controls 3.3 Climatic Controls 4. Barrier Types 4.1 Barrier Spits 4.2 Spit Initiation 4.2.1 Recurved Spits 4.2.2 Cuspate Spits 4.2.3 Flying Spits 4.2.4 Tombolos 4.2.5 Cuspate Forelands 4.3 Welded Barriers 4.4 Barrier Islands 4.4.1 Origin of Barrier Islands 4.4.2 E. de Beaumont 4.4.3 G.K. Gilbert 4.4.4 W.D. McGee 4.4.5 D.W. Johnson 4.4.6 John Hoyt 4.4.7 John Fisher 4.4.8 Recent Barrier Studies 5. BarrierUNESCO Coast Morphology – EOLSS 5.1 Hydrographic Regime and Types of Barrier Coast 5.1.1 Wave-dominatedSAMPLE Coast CHAPTERS 5.1.2 Mixed-Energy Coast 5.1.3 Tide-Dominated Coasts 5.2 Georgia Bight – A Case Study 6. Prograding, Retrograding, and Aggrading Barriers 6.1 Prograding Barriers 6.2 Retrograding Barriers 6.3 Aggrading Barriers 7. Barrier Stratigraphy 7.1 Prograding barrier (regressive stratigraphy) ©Encyclopedia of Life Support Systems (EOLSS) COASTAL ZONES AND ESTUARIES – Coastal Barriers - D. M. FitzGerald and I. V. Buynevich 7.2 Retrograding barrier (transgressive stratigraphy) 7.3 Aggrading barrier stratigraphy Glossary Bibliography Biographical Sketches Summary Barriers occur on a worldwide basis but are predominantly found along Amero-trailing edge continental margins in coastal plain settings where the supply of sand is abundant.