Diving the Transcendent

ZDiving APATA The Transcendent

TEXT BY BRYAN HATCH PHOTOS BY WAYNE B. BROWN

A gray angelfish explores a very colorful reef, filled with bright sponges, hard corals and a variety of gorgonians.

26 27 On a clear day in early February, I found myself with a small group of divers, perched at the threshold of something truly unknown. Miles from any visible land at a depth of 45 feet, we were exploring a shallow blue hole and discovered a series of inviting caves. Descending to a depth of about 60 feet, we observed a small opening through which, an enormous cavern could be seen. What secrets were hidden there in the darkness? As the bravest among us ventured in, I thought about how I got here in the first place. A few months ago, I was standing in the fruit-and- vegetable section of my neighborhood grocery when I received a text; “Can you go to Cuba February 5th?” Hmm… let me think; one, two, three… Wait! I have to ask my girlfriend. Wait! She is not here. I text back “YES!” almost instantaneously. Then I started humming the theme from Mission Impossible and returned to picking the perfect lime. All of a sudden, my trip to the grocery has taken a new turn…Cuba? The truth is, I never thought that I would go there. I didn’t know Americans could go there, I had heard something about Cuba opening up, but I didn’t really think it was a possibility for me. What do I even know about Cuba? Cigars? The Buena Vista Social Club? Yeah, that’s about it. Anticipation sets in. Will I need a need a visa?

TOP: Arrow squids can always be seen on night dives since they are nocturnal open-water species. They are not as common as the Caribbean Sea Caribbean reef squids.

RIGHT: Zapata is located about 100 miles southeast of Havana, in the Golfo Havana de Cazones.

OPPOSITE: Golfo de Many of the walls are almost Batabanó vertical, extending beyond 130 feet. They are covered with a Golfo de complex network of brightly Cazones colored sponges, black corals, Isle of Youth gorgonians, sea fans and a variety of hard corals.

28 29 Divers can expect to find clean, clear water and reefs covered with vibrant sponges as well as an extensive variety of hard corals and fishes

30 31 So I ask my host, “Hey, what planet. I recycle. I don’t waste. Capone and then…poof! There week, to get a new battery for is the deal?” Here’s the deal: As a matter of fact, I probably it is, right down there. Cuba… his Macbook computer. He We are going to an area called have one of the smallest carbon green as far as the eye can see! goes back and forth regularly Zapata to survey the health of footprints of anyone you might Flying in from the ocean, over and would love his wife and the reef and wildlife and provide know. Let’s rock this! an island on a sunny day is daughter to see America. I asked guidance on preservation. As an Having no idea how to simply the best, isn’t it? him if he would take his family SSI Reef Ambassador, I am all prepare for this trip, I fall back The airport is nice and we to Disneyland and he didn’t in for that. Plus, we are going as on what I know, I am a hiker, had no problems at all—there seem very interested in that. an advance team and part of the Appalachian Trail-style, and are my bags, there is our ride! In downtown Havana, there Oceans for Youth Foundation, thus I plan. Let’s start with the Leaving baggage claim, the is new construction going on. I which works actively to promote basics: ALL of my dive gear, first thing I noticed, were the begin to get a sense of ease as underwater education, with swim trunks, toothbrush, a cars. When you mention Cuba we drive though town, a sort a focus on appreciation and book and a shark cage. Would I to anyone, inevitable is the of “people-are-people” feeling. respect for the oceans: need anything else? Most of my question about vintage cars. It is This is a big city and everyone www.oceansforyouth.org. experience diving is as a guest true, they are all over the place is going on about his or her Furthermore, while in Cuba, on the Aggressor Fleet yachts, so in Havana. My eyes were peeled business, just as in every city we will be guests on a Cuban I’m spoiled because after every for the legendary Gull Wing across the world. “What was boat. We will be in the Bay of dive, you get hot showers, hot Mercedes but alas, like Bigfoot, Pigs, and oh, by the way, we will snacks and a warm towel right I never saw one. However, I did dive in places that no one has there, on the dive deck. Yes, I’m see a Ford Edsel! dived before.” No one? First happily spoiled. But what about The air is balmy and people BELOW: thought…sea monsters…second Cuba, what will the boat be like? are milling about just as they Zapata’s reefs teem with marine thought…mermaids…third It turns out that I didn’t need might in any larger Caribbean life that include lush soft corals, thought…I wish! all of those Costco Protein and city. The Cuban people are parrotfish and surgeonfish, like those seen here. This is shaping up to be a Granola bars I packed—more vibrant, hustling and bustling once-in-a-lifetime adventure. on that later. about in bright clothes. On OPPOSITE: I love helping in anyway, If you go to Cuba and you fly first impression, I found them The intricate network of sponges to enhance or protect the out of Atlanta, Georgia, don’t to be smart, caring and kind. form vivid-colored colonies, throughout the reefscape. These environment; it’s a big deal blink or the flight will be over— Andreas, a dive master, was the sponges are not only beautiful to for me. Don’t get me wrong, it’s that quick. When the island first person I met; he was funny look at or photograph but serve I am not an over-the-top comes into sight, one can’t help and gregarious. He was also a as a source of food for turtles, some species of fish and even environmentalist but just like but think of the history: The Bay “Mac guy.” He told us he was small sea slugs and nudibranchs. most people, I care about the of Pigs, the Missile Crisis, Al flying to the U.S. the following

32 33 34 I expecting?” I asked myself. Consciously, I didn’t have any expectation but subconsciously I must have. We arrived at our hotel, checked in, had lunch and I had my first authentic Cuban Mojito. Next, we took a walking tour to the old part of town. Old Havana (Habana Vieja) is amazing. The buildings and architecture are timeless and the feeling is more European, maybe more Eastern Mediterranean than Caribbean. Time has stripped away much of the shine of Old Havana, but there is a character to this place that is unmistakable. We visited Hemingway’s favorite bar—both of them—La Floridita and La Bodeguita del Médio! Let me tell you, those Cuban Mojito’s are real…real sneaky, that is. A guy asked me to pose in a photo with him. I said, “I am not famous, why do you want me to be in your picture?” He showed me a magazine, with his picture on it. That is when I get it; he wants my twenty dollars because HE is “famous.” Walking in Havana is like walking on a fault line, I got a pervasive feeling that things in Cuba are in transition. Heading out from Havana to Zapata, I notice almost no transition from urban to rural. The highway is nice, with four lanes like an interstate highway but there are far less automobiles and more horses and buggies. Here we sat, three of us, on a huge air-conditioned bus. And thank goodness we were on a bus; it would have taken at least a day to get where we were going, on horseback. We passed Australia. Ok, there is a town in Cuba called Australia (who knew)? We drove through miles and miles of tropical forest and grasslands. Then I realized that something was missing, it isn’t what I’ve noticed, it is what I haven’t noticed. Where are the grocery

Photographers can enjoy the clean, clear azure waters that surround the reefs at Zapata. The congregation of sponges and hard corals, together with the variety of colorful marine life, can produce dramatic images.

35 stores? Where are the drug stern was small and crowded plan back then, was to land on TOP AND OPPOSITE: stores? Strange, there aren’t any. with air tanks, coolers and the soft underbelly, coalesce and The wall dives are as spectacular and dramatic as those in the I turned to the others on the bus cabinets. There were no hot march in force to Havana? Who Cayman Islands. The steep and asked, “Would anyone like a showers on the stern but this is knows? I certainly do not, so my walls can start as shallow as 20 Protein bar?” hardly “roughing it.” focus turns to the water. feet and disappear into black, abysmal depths. We arrived at the dock, Just after we boarded, picked This is paradise. The bay boarded the vessel and met our cabins and stowed our gear, stretches out funnel shaped, as These vertiginous walls are the staff and crew. They were the crew sprung into action we move to the open water. My completely covered with barrel amazing and attended to every and the boat came to life. First, mind goes to deep-sea trips of sponges, scattered pore rope sponges, green finger sponges, detail from our first moment we heard the familiar sound of my youth, leaving Savannah, bushy black corals, pink and to the last. The boat was older; marine engines firing up, then Georgia for the Gulf. Gradually, azure vase sponges, wire coral it had at least one coat of fresh the Captain and crew shouting the water turns from a dark and colonies of vivid encrusting sponges. paint, inside and out. This was orders and flinging bow lines. We green to ever-lighter shades of no Aggressor boat but it was left the dock, passed through a blue, eventually becoming a full Enormous Nassau and black solid and comfortable. The layout narrow channel, a micron wider turquoise. The water is as clear groupers can easily be spotted featured three levels: the first for than the boat and headed out as in the Cayman Islands, with hiding under the numerous, wide overhangs and narrow swim- crew, the second for cabins and into the Bahía de Cochinos. And a jewel-like quality as beautiful throughs. kitchen, and the third, offered a I thought, “So this is it…The as any I have seen. Forty feet gracious salon, bar, dining area Bay of Pigs.” This is no place to deep and you can clearly see the and the Captain’s quarters. The launch an invasion! Maybe the bottom.

36 37 TOP: Schools of French grunts, yellowtail snappers, butterflyfish and bar jacks are some of the most commonly seen fishes on dive sites.

LEFT CLOCKWISE: Neck crabs are masters of camouflage. They are typically covered with bryozoans and algae, and can be found on sea fans and gorgonians.

The leech aglaja is a species of headshield slug and is tiny, measuring up to one inch. This makes it very difficult to see them as they crawl over sand and seagrass.

There are many species of brittle stars in Cuba like this angular sea star. They are all nocturnal but some can be seen during the day, attached to sponges and gorgonians.

Cuba probably has the most Caribbean spiny lobsters than any other Caribbean island. This is probably because lobster fishing is done far offshore. Lobsters on the protected reefs get a chance to multiply and increase in quantity and size.

38 Standing on the bow, getting my sea legs, I watch the sun as it goes down. I turn to head inside and realize that there is a gathering in the salon. Walking in, I notice a map stretched out across the dining table, with several people listening intently to Israel, our dive master, as he points to areas on the map. The discussion is about potential dive sites. “Not much is known. We have interviewed the local fishermen. We think there is a blue hole here, a cave here, an aqueduct here.” Yes, he did say “think.” Our Cuban hosts have done reconnaissance on the area, as much as they can, for little is known about the underwater world of the Zapata because it is a protected area covering over 80 square miles. Diving in the Zapata is easy and amazing. There is very little current, visibility is incredible and there are indeed blue holes. There are walls, caves and an abundance of wildlife. The sheer walls are dramatic and similar to Little Cayman or Lighthouse Reef in Belize. The soft and hard

TOP: The best time to see the Atlantic longarm octopus is at night on sandy areas, coral rubble and mud, where they live underground, occasionally extending their heads from openings. They often swim across the sea floor, with their arms trailing behind, reminiscent of a flounder.

RIGHT: There many species of gorgonians that are typically found on the reefs at Zapata. They include bushy clusters of tall sea plumes, giant slit-pore sea rods, bent sea rods, black sea rods, warty sea rods, sea whips, common and Venus sea fans, deep-water sea fans, sea whips, sea whips and a variety of telestos.

These soft corals typically proliferate the reefscape, together with hard corals and sponges.

39 TOP LEFT: corals are pristine and we were Channel cling crabs can often be not surprised to find diverse found in caves or under ledges and overhangs, during the day. species of marine life, common At night, they come out into the to the Caribbean. The very open to forage. first thing I noticed, was the

TOP RIGHT: almost perfectly round carpet Yellowline arrow crabs are anemone, a welcome portent easily identified by their small to the remainder of our trip. triangular body with alternating Over 4 days, we completed 13 white, brown and black stripes, and by their long slender spider- dives, including one night dive like legs. They are abundant on and a snorkel. All of the dives every reef, at depths from 5 to originated from a rather large 130 feet. and new tender. We dived on LEFT: air; no nitrox available, which The spotted cleaner shrimp worked out great because some can grow up to one inch and is of the dives were as deep as 180 usually found on several species of anemones, including this sun feet. anemone. They remove and The healthy coral was eat parasites, injured tissue, ubiquitous and indeed so healthy and possibly undesirable food particles from a large variety of that you might not believe they cooperating reef fishes. Spotted were real. The elkhorn coral and cleaner shrimp often enter the huge pillar coral were worthy mouths and gill cavities of their of marvel. The vertical walls hosts, apparently with complete immunity from being eaten. were covered with incredible sponges, beyond the imagination OPPOSITE: and in certain areas, the vast There many colonies of lengthy yellow tube sponges in every gardens of healthy elkhorns, part of Zapata’s reefs. Some are sprawled as far as the eye could as small as 6 inches, to as long see. This is where we snorkeled. as 4 feet. The Cubans are very keen on Small shrimps, brittle stars, sea conservation and tendered well slugs and nudibranchs can often away from the area, in order to be seen in the numerous dimples. protect the coral. The entire area

40 41 42 of the Zapata is an untouched marine ecosystem. Everywhere we explored, there was no evidence of humans, bar one peculiar PVC-pipe-looking thing that might have floated in during a storm. There has been some poaching by locals but with new protections in place, fishing will be better managed in the future. A reoccurring theme for me in Zapata, was what I didn’t see—I saw no big animals. No sharks other than a few nurse sharks, here and there. This is probably due to the poaching. Once that is under control, the larger predators will surely return. Our group, always in good humor, began to name the dive sites, applying several of the exotic names already in use, by the local fishermen—The White Wall, The Blue Hole etc. Meanwhile, the fish seemed concerned with our presence and acted in a manner unfamiliar. On every other dive site I have been, in the Atlantic or Pacific, the fish have seen so

OPPOSITE: A school of snappers, French grunts and a couple of lionfish congregate under a colorful overhang.

TOP: Porcupine fishes can grow up to 2 feet in length and will only inflate when provoked.

MIDDLE: A colony of painted tunicates can grow in clusters from just a few to over a 1,000. They often attach themselves to substrates like gorgonians, black coral or sponges.

BELOW: While there are many species of eels in Cuba, the spotted moray is the most common. They can be found in shallow reefs and rocky rubble.

They constantly open and close their mouth, which aids to move water through their gills for respiration. Moray eels can inflict a nasty bite if molested.

The spotted moray and golden- tail morays are the only ones that feed during the day

43 many divers that they just go hello…maybe I was shiny. My astonishing to behold. TOP: along with their business. As Spanish is rusty so I was unable We also explored the Divers can expect to see large barrel sponges on the wide many of you know, some fish, to gauge their intentions. The mangroves, which are expansive, ledges, along the walls at Zapata. grouper for instance, will swim fish diversity is extensive, as are healthy and teeming with life. Some of these barrel sponges with you and even show you all manner of rays and lobsters. The mangrove provides a perfect are so enormous, that a diver where the lionfish are. Not here. I have never seen so many nursery area for young fish can easily fit inside. A colony of These guys stare at you wide lobsters. I saw a lobster eat a and act as filters for the water branching tube sponge can be seen at the base of the barrel eyed, hugging the reef as if you lionfish. Yes I did. Using his that flows to the reef, providing sponge. are a predator or something claws, he spun it around like a much-needed nutrients. Despite alien. corn on the cob, all the while, our best efforts, we did not OPPOSITE: One exception in Cuba—the gnawing feverishly. It must see any crocodiles. We did see Convoluted barrel sponges can barracuda are extra friendly have been delicious because large schools of small fish and grow up to 3 feet in length. They are easily identified by the and were the most curious of through the cloud of fish debris, stingrays in the shallows. It tapered base and yellow-green the animals we encountered; I could clearly hear “num, num, was neat to watch the sardines color. There are only a few of maybe they just wanted to say num!” For me this was simply dance as they attempted to avoid these large ones in Zapata.

44 45 providing a tasty treat for the remarkably happy pelicans. Let’s go back to where we started; the little opening in the bottom of the cave in the little blue hole. Would you like to know what you would find there? Had you been with us, you would have found an aqueduct with a mild ebb current, a nurse shark, three curious divers and a concerned dive master. Something else may be lurking down there; maybe you will be the one to discover what that is. I can tell you this—no air bubbles escaped the cavern and I have no idea where they went! From Havana to Zapata and back again, each day in Cuba was a learning experience. Should you visit this beautiful country? Absolutely! Everyone should, divers and non-divers. Your mind will be blown. Some of you may be lamenting the change that is inevitably headed to Cuba. I do not. Cuba already has surpassed 3 million annual, international arrivals, mainly from Spain, Italy, Germany and Canada. Sooner or later, the tide of American tourism will take surge, polish this old gem and put Cuba at the forefront of easily accessible premium destinations, for American travelers. Please, don’t worry about our American culture impacting the Cubans’; it is their culture that will re-awake to affect ours. You can feel it in the air and see it in the eyes of the people, a brightness and knowing; as if a net cast on the whole country, is gradually being lifted. If you want to imagine the future; put on a Buena Vista Social club or Ruben Gonzales recording, sit back in your favorite chair, close your eyes and let the music sink in. In no time, you will see just what I mean.

Bar jacks can often be seen in huge schools near the surface or just above the reef tops. They have highly reflective skin, often making flash photography difficult.

They are quite curious and are attracted to divers’ bubbles. An entire school will often swirl around a diver.

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