ZDiving APATA The Transcendent TEXT BY BRYAN HATCH PHOTOS BY WAYNE B. BROWN A gray angelfish explores a very colorful reef, filled with bright sponges, hard corals and a variety of gorgonians. 26 27 On a clear day in early February, I found myself with a small group of divers, perched at the threshold of something truly unknown. Miles from any visible land at a depth of 45 feet, we were exploring a shallow blue hole and discovered a series of inviting caves. Descending to a depth of about 60 feet, we observed a small opening through which, an enormous cavern could be seen. What secrets were hidden there in the darkness? As the bravest among us ventured in, I thought about how I got here in the first place. A few months ago, I was standing in the fruit-and- vegetable section of my neighborhood grocery when I received a text; “Can you go to Cuba February 5th?” Hmm… let me think; one, two, three… Wait! I have to ask my girlfriend. Wait! She is not here. I text back “YES!” almost instantaneously. Then I started humming the theme from Mission Impossible and returned to picking the perfect lime. All of a sudden, my trip to the grocery has taken a new turn…Cuba? The truth is, I never thought that I would go there. I didn’t know Americans could go there, I had heard something about Cuba opening up, but I didn’t really think it was a possibility for me. What do I even know about Cuba? Cigars? The Buena Vista Social Club? Yeah, that’s about it. Anticipation sets in. Will I need a need a visa? TOP: Arrow squids can always be seen on night dives since they are nocturnal open-water species. They are not as common as the Caribbean Sea Caribbean reef squids. RIGHT: Zapata is located about 100 miles southeast of Havana, in the Golfo Havana de Cazones. OPPOSITE: Golfo de Many of the walls are almost Batabanó vertical, extending beyond 130 feet. They are covered with a Golfo de complex network of brightly Cazones colored sponges, black corals, Isle of Youth gorgonians, sea fans and a variety of hard corals. 28 29 Divers can expect to find clean, clear water and reefs covered with vibrant sponges as well as an extensive variety of hard corals and fishes 30 31 So I ask my host, “Hey, what planet. I recycle. I don’t waste. Capone and then…poof! There week, to get a new battery for is the deal?” Here’s the deal: As a matter of fact, I probably it is, right down there. Cuba… his Macbook computer. He We are going to an area called have one of the smallest carbon green as far as the eye can see! goes back and forth regularly Zapata to survey the health of footprints of anyone you might Flying in from the ocean, over and would love his wife and the reef and wildlife and provide know. Let’s rock this! an island on a sunny day is daughter to see America. I asked guidance on preservation. As an Having no idea how to simply the best, isn’t it? him if he would take his family SSI Reef Ambassador, I am all prepare for this trip, I fall back The airport is nice and we to Disneyland and he didn’t in for that. Plus, we are going as on what I know, I am a hiker, had no problems at all—there seem very interested in that. an advance team and part of the Appalachian Trail-style, and are my bags, there is our ride! In downtown Havana, there Oceans for Youth Foundation, thus I plan. Let’s start with the Leaving baggage claim, the is new construction going on. I which works actively to promote basics: ALL of my dive gear, first thing I noticed, were the begin to get a sense of ease as underwater education, with swim trunks, toothbrush, a cars. When you mention Cuba we drive though town, a sort a focus on appreciation and book and a shark cage. Would I to anyone, inevitable is the of “people-are-people” feeling. respect for the oceans: need anything else? Most of my question about vintage cars. It is This is a big city and everyone www.oceansforyouth.org. experience diving is as a guest true, they are all over the place is going on about his or her Furthermore, while in Cuba, on the Aggressor Fleet yachts, so in Havana. My eyes were peeled business, just as in every city we will be guests on a Cuban I’m spoiled because after every for the legendary Gull Wing across the world. “What was boat. We will be in the Bay of dive, you get hot showers, hot Mercedes but alas, like Bigfoot, Pigs, and oh, by the way, we will snacks and a warm towel right I never saw one. However, I did dive in places that no one has there, on the dive deck. Yes, I’m see a Ford Edsel! dived before.” No one? First happily spoiled. But what about The air is balmy and people BELOW: thought…sea monsters…second Cuba, what will the boat be like? are milling about just as they Zapata’s reefs teem with marine thought…mermaids…third It turns out that I didn’t need might in any larger Caribbean life that include lush soft corals, thought…I wish! all of those Costco Protein and city. The Cuban people are parrotfish and surgeonfish, like those seen here. This is shaping up to be a Granola bars I packed—more vibrant, hustling and bustling once-in-a-lifetime adventure. on that later. about in bright clothes. On OPPOSITE: I love helping in anyway, If you go to Cuba and you fly first impression, I found them The intricate network of sponges to enhance or protect the out of Atlanta, Georgia, don’t to be smart, caring and kind. form vivid-colored colonies, throughout the reefscape. These environment; it’s a big deal blink or the flight will be over— Andreas, a dive master, was the sponges are not only beautiful to for me. Don’t get me wrong, it’s that quick. When the island first person I met; he was funny look at or photograph but serve I am not an over-the-top comes into sight, one can’t help and gregarious. He was also a as a source of food for turtles, some species of fish and even environmentalist but just like but think of the history: The Bay “Mac guy.” He told us he was small sea slugs and nudibranchs. most people, I care about the of Pigs, the Missile Crisis, Al flying to the U.S. the following 32 33 34 I expecting?” I asked myself. Consciously, I didn’t have any expectation but subconsciously I must have. We arrived at our hotel, checked in, had lunch and I had my first authentic Cuban Mojito. Next, we took a walking tour to the old part of town. Old Havana (Habana Vieja) is amazing. The buildings and architecture are timeless and the feeling is more European, maybe more Eastern Mediterranean than Caribbean. Time has stripped away much of the shine of Old Havana, but there is a character to this place that is unmistakable. We visited Hemingway’s favorite bar—both of them—La Floridita and La Bodeguita del Médio! Let me tell you, those Cuban Mojito’s are real…real sneaky, that is. A guy asked me to pose in a photo with him. I said, “I am not famous, why do you want me to be in your picture?” He showed me a magazine, with his picture on it. That is when I get it; he wants my twenty dollars because HE is “famous.” Walking in Havana is like walking on a fault line, I got a pervasive feeling that things in Cuba are in transition. Heading out from Havana to Zapata, I notice almost no transition from urban to rural. The highway is nice, with four lanes like an interstate highway but there are far less automobiles and more horses and buggies. Here we sat, three of us, on a huge air-conditioned bus. And thank goodness we were on a bus; it would have taken at least a day to get where we were going, on horseback. We passed Australia. Ok, there is a town in Cuba called Australia (who knew)? We drove through miles and miles of tropical forest and grasslands. Then I realized that something was missing, it isn’t what I’ve noticed, it is what I haven’t noticed. Where are the grocery Photographers can enjoy the clean, clear azure waters that surround the reefs at Zapata. The congregation of sponges and hard corals, together with the variety of colorful marine life, can produce dramatic images. 35 stores? Where are the drug stern was small and crowded plan back then, was to land on TOP AND OPPOSITE: stores? Strange, there aren’t any. with air tanks, coolers and the soft underbelly, coalesce and The wall dives are as spectacular and dramatic as those in the I turned to the others on the bus cabinets. There were no hot march in force to Havana? Who Cayman Islands. The steep and asked, “Would anyone like a showers on the stern but this is knows? I certainly do not, so my walls can start as shallow as 20 Protein bar?” hardly “roughing it.” focus turns to the water.