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The Austro-Hungarian Arctic Expedition to Franz Josef Land

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The Austro-Hungarian Arctic Expedition to Franz Josef Land Out of Tromsø: The Austro-Hungarian Arctic Expedition to Franz Josef Land Julius von Payer’s map of Franz Josef Land According to Wikipedia: “Franz Josef Land is an archipelago located in the far north of Russia … in the Arctic Ocean, north of Novaya Zemlya and east of Svalbard, and is administered by Arkhangelsk Oblast. It consists of 191 ice-covered islands with a total area of 16,134 km2 (6,229 sq mi). It has no native inhabitants. At latitudes between 80.0° and 81.9° north, it is the most northerly group of islands associated with Eurasia. The extreme northernmost point is Cape Fligely on Rudolf Island. The archipelago is only 900 to 1,110 km from the North Pole, and the northernmost islands are closer to the Pole than any other land except for Canada's Ellesmere Island and Greenland.” The archipelago was possibly first discovered by the Norwegian sealers Nils Fredrik Rønnbeck and Aidijärvi aboard the schooner Spidsbergen in 1865 who, according to scarce reports, sailed eastward from Svalbard until they reached a new land, denoted Nordøst- Spitsbergen. It is not known if they went ashore, and the new islands were soon forgotten. The officially recognized discovery took place in 1873 by the Austro-Hungarian North Pole Expedition led by polar explorers Julius von Payer and Karl Weyprecht. They named the archipelago in honour of the Austro-Hungarian emperor Franz Joseph I. Since the expedition was privately sponsored and not official, these islands have not been part of Austria.” Julius von Payer, who was also the chronicler of the expedition, described their discovery as “cold, congealed, frozen land,” “the kingdom of the dead,” but that did not deter Fridtjof 1 Nansen, called “the Explorer as Hero” by his biographer, to base his historic attempt to reach the North Pole from relying on that archipelago on his return from the far North. How come that an Austro-Hungarian expedition ever started? The 19th century belongs to Europe, major inventions and accomplishments as well as conquests all belong to the powers of Europe. In the second half of the century there was a new wave of colonial expansion, a drive for discovering and annexing new territories. The usual aims were: pure glory for the country and its ruler, to have strategic advantages over the rivals (to forestall them – that was the so-called “scramble for Africa”), but exploiting the resources of the overseas possessions was also an increasingly major consideration. Somewhat different, but not entirely unrelated was the race for reaching the North Pole first, ahead of others. While undoubtedly that drove Nansen, Parry and most others, that was not the avowed aim of the Austro-Hungarian Expedition. The dynasty of the Habsburgs once ruled over much of Central Europe todays Austria, Hungary, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Slovenia, Croatia, and also parts of Italy, Poland, Ukraine Romania and Serbia as well as Spain. The so-called Ausgleich (Settlement) of 1867 established the dual Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, creating a personal union between the Empire of Austria and the Kingdom of Hungary – not unlike the Swedish-Norwegian Union of 1815. That consolidated what was usually just called the Monarchy, still one of the five Great Powers of Europe, and gave an impetus for rapid economic development. In this optimistic spirit, prompted by English, American and German Arctic expeditions, a few aristocrats in the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy decided to finance an expedition to find and explore the North-Eastern Passage from Europe to the North Pacific. Reaching the North Pole was a secondary target. Count Hans Johann Wilczek was the first and main financer of the expedition, but the Ministry of Defence and other departments, too, contributed. From Hungary Count Ödön Zichy, and members of the Eszterházy and Széchenyi families gave donations. Two extremely capable naval officers, dedicated more to the scientific study of the Earth than to nationalist ambitions, Linienschiffsleutnant Karl Weyprecht and Lieutenant Julius von Payer, were selected to lead the expedition. In the summer of 1871 the two decided on a preliminary voyage to see how far the sea east of Svalbard was free of ice. They set off on June 20 from 2 Tromsø on board the sealer Isbjørn in heavy snowfall. After a month’ sailing they found that the ice near Novaya Zemlya was much weaker and less set than near Greenland. The further east they went the less ice they found. At the end of August they reached 79 degree latitude – and there was no ice in sight. That looked very promising for the planned expedition. The ship of the expedition was the newly built Tegetthoff, named after the Austrian Admiral Wilhelm von Tegetthoff, the victor of the naval battle of Lissa against the Italian fleet in 1866, under whom Weyprecht had served. The ship was a three-masted schooner of 220 tons, 38.34 m long, with a 100 hp (75 kW) steam engine. The crew came from all over Austria- Hungary, especially from Istria and Dalmatia, mainly Croats and Italians. The surgeon was Gyula Kepes, a Hungarian. Apart from a good stock of medicaments it was his responsibility collecting the necessary provisions. In addition to tinned meat, rice, dried pastry etc. he instinctively took sauerkrat (cabbage in vinegar) and citrus squash against scurvy. What probably proved the best medicine was a bottles of strong Tokay aszú wine. Built at and starting from Bremerhaven, the Tegetthoff left Tromsø on 14 July 1872 with a crew of 24, which included the Norwegian Elling Olaf Carlsen, an experienced captain, as an ice pilot & harpooner. The party came in sight of Novaya Zemlya on the 29th of July. Unlike in the previous year, they encountered much ice already at that point, at the 74 parallel. On August 21 the ship got locked in pack-ice north of Novaya Zemlya and it proved impossible to free it even by explosives. The expedition drifted northeast to hitherto unknown polar regions. From mid-October the pressure of the ice threatened the ship with crushing it; besides pressure on the sides the ice was towering over the vessel and lifted it high. For 130 days the crew had to be ready to abandon the vessel at any moment. On the 29th of October the sun disappeared for 109 days! The Northern Lights gave little compensation. With the winter over the months of May, June, and July were spent in trying to saw the Tegetthoff out of the ice; but all the efforts made were futile and all hope of breaking up the ice holding it in captivity had to be given up. Drifting helplessly in the ice mostly in fog and reaching latitude 80 on August 30th 1873 the mist suddenly opened partly up. Julius Payer recalled afterwards: „Toward the midday we were standing on the deck, leaning on the ship’s board and staring aimlessly at the mist, that had began to dissipate in some spots. Suddenly the mist dissipated completely in the North- West, and we saw cliffs. In a few minutes we caught an astonishing sight of a majestic mountainous landscape and glaciers, that dazzled us in the sunshine. For a few seconds we 3 stood stunned and couldn’t believe our eyes. Then, overwhelmed by emotions, we burst out crying: Land! Land!” They decided to baptize the newly found territory – opening bottles of wine. It was named Wilczek Island after Count Wilczek, the originator and main sponsor of the expedition, and the land mass behind it was given the name of Emperor-KING FRANZ JOSEF. (They were probably where today the spectacular Cape Tegetthoff welcomes rich tourists who can afford one of the highly expensive tours to the islands.) The floe was driven to an island, where it remained, three miles from the shore, while the icefield around it finally froze together as a continuous ice cover. Across this ice, Wilczek Island could be reached, and Payer took possession of the land by depositing a document under a pile of stones.The polar night, however, prevented any exploration. Celebrating Christmas had by all accounts a warming effect, lifting the mood of the whole expedition. The crew built a palace of ice and they held a kind of banquet there. Presents made by the ladies of Vienna and Pola were given to the sailors in a raffle. In January the cold was extremely severe, mercury in the thermometer got frozen, so did the oil in the burner, the lamps went out, and the brandy was congealed into a solid mass. Bread had to be sliced by a saw, butter was cut by a wedge so that it could be melted. Polar bears paid the voyagers frequent visits, and 67 of them were shot, providing much fresh meet. Various scientific observations and measuring kept the people occupied. Most of the seamen originally could not read and write, but during the long winter night the officers taught them to become literate. Although the health and the mood of the people were better than after the first winter, it was evident that they could not survive a third polar winter with their depleted stocks. It was decided that in May they would abandon the ship and try to reach the land by sledge and boat. But first they would explore the uncharted land ahead. Part of the crew landed on 10 March, and ten days later Lieutenant Payer with a party of six went on a sledge-journey in a north-west direction to Hall Island. The whole region seemed "devoid of life"--ice and great glaciers everywhere. The cold was intense.
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