MASHRU FABRICS: ITS PRODUCTION TECHNOLOGY AND SCOPE FOR FURTHER DEVELOPMENT Prakash Khatwani1, Prunal Khawani2 1Textile Technology/ SCET, Surat (India) 2Fashion and Textile Department/ NIFD, Surat / JJT University Rajasthan (India)

ABSTRACT The main objective of this paper is to learn about history of mashru fabrics, its construction ,and how to overcome limitation and modification. Keywords: Mashru, Warp, Weft, Patan, Ikat

I. INTRODUCTION Mashru means” to allow” in Persian language and in Sanskrit it means misru –mixed [1]. In Muslim culture they believed that silk cannot be worn against skin, so mashru was specially invented for them, which permitted them to wear silk because it had silk on the outer side of fabric and inner side was made up of cotton. Because of this construction of mashru, it got immediate popularity in the market. It was the most exported fabric to Ottoman Empire and gulf. [2] In India other semi silk variety fabrics were also there for e.g brocaded designs. It had cotton warp and silk weft. This fabric is known as “Himru”. In today’s market it is only manufactured in Aurangabad, and jacquard looms are used to design it. Another type of semi silk fabric is “Sangi”. Sangi means together. Here two warp threads always work together. The same fabric is known as “Gulbadan”, if it is worn by Hindu and if it is worn by Muslim then it is known as Mashru. This type of pattern is produced mainly to cover the cotton weft yarn by multicolour warp yarn.Here warp ikat pattern fabric was produced and that type of mashru was known as “chhada”.Here in India, mashru ikat fabric was had simple design. The group of warp threads are tie-dyed together as a set, which varies from region to region .In Utter Pradesh it was 10 and 14.In other state it was 4 and 20. Another variety of mashru is “khanjari”. In this quality of mashru, fabric was determined by the number of wave lines per square unit of the fabric. Normal mashru fabric had 30 waves per width of the fabric but high quality mashru fabric had up to 45 waves per width. Mashru fabric were used in coats, jackets even payjamas for men. This classic fabric was used in home furnishing like bed sheets, pillow covers, umbrellas and border for embroideries etc.British people in 17th century started shipping mixed fabric called “Tapseils” to West Africa, those fabrics were striped and they had the pattern of single ikat

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II. ABOUT THE WEAVERS The weaving of mashru involves many steps and special two castes in patan,were involved in it.Hindu khatris and the sheikh Muslims.Some khatri people converted to Islam and called themselves Indian sheikh.Initially there were 250 families who did mashru weaving in patan. They had 400 weaving looms,there might be 10 warp maker and dyers,12 heddle and reed manufacturers and 10 people were involve with calendaring . These people were involved in mashru production. Few years before patan weavers made one co-operative society which handled small part of production. [4] The special weaving of mashru makes it attractive even today .Mashru is generally dyed into bright and attractive colours, like red, green, yellow etc. In today’s production raw material used for warp is artificial silk or rayon and in weft spun cotton yarn. Even the dyes used are anilin colours. [1]

III. WEAVING PROCESS OF MASHRU Very first step of mashru weaving is to prepare warp yarn. The warp preparators were known as “tanivala” and the length of warp was about 63 yards.

IV. WARP PREPARATION PROCESS Warp threads are led from bobbins or spools spreadon the floor. It passes from the glass ring and wound on a reel.Then hank is prepared from reel and taken for dyeing. Dyeing is done with chemical colours.Warp threads are needed to be tied before dyeing and it is done by a single woman who did this for patola in patan since her young age. For this warp is needed tostretch out and tied in a section with cotton yarn. This tied warp is known as chhadaand tyers are known as “pattibandhara”. [3]

V. ABOUT WEFT Weft thread is mostly cotton yarn of count varies from 30s to 32s which is transferred on to bobbin by winding machine for shuttle. [4]

VI. WEAVING Weaving of mashru is completed on traditional pit loom. The treadles lie in pits, and warp threads lie across the room. After woven fabric is collected on the cloth roller then it is cut into five meter long pieces. Then itis washed in cold water and is folded while it contains moisture and beaten on the back side of the fabric with a very heavy wooden hammer for about 10 min. This process is known as “kundi” and the person is known as “kundiwala”. This process is the type of calendaring process which makes all warp threads to be opened and spread evenly on the right side of the fabric. This fabric is then taken for glazing. Wheat flour is applied on the fabric and again beaten and compressed it in- between very heavy two wooden pieces .The weight of these wooden pieces is around 50 to 60 k.g. Now the fabric is ready for sale. [4] 414 | P a g e

This process of production of mashru is carried out since centuries, but there is no significant change in process. Basic small changes are there which are listed here.  Quality of handloom is improved by using fly shuttle.  Even the calendaring process in which heavy wooden hemisphere was used and is improved by adding mechanical support.  In raw material warp threads are replaced by rayon instead of pure silk.[3]

VII. DESIGNES OF MASHRU A century ago mainly warp ikat mashru was there which was separated by brocaded stripes. Only one variety of mashru known as “Khanjari” was woven in horizontal strips. Sometimes multicolours warp sets were used to create multicolours impression. There were so many mashru pattern and they all were in demand in different region of the country.  Like “Katario” and “Sodagiri” in Rajasthan.  Arbi and Kantchi in Madhya Pradesh.  Kanki in Gujarat and Rajasthan In Arbi pattern warp threads are tied and dye in green and white and red plain warps are added in between. Even Sholapuri design with black and red ikat stripes was also very famous. Mashru is attractive even today. Mashru is generally dyed into bright and attractive colours like red, green, yellow etc. In today’s production raw material used for warp is artificial silk or rayon and in weft, spun cotton yarn, even the dyes used are anilin colours. [1]

VIII. REGION OF MASHRU PRODUCTION Previously mashru was woven in different areas throughout the country. During 19th century there were many centres of mashru weaving like in Gujarat, Rajasthan, Agra and Varansi, Hyderabad, TriuchirappalliMysore, Madras etc. Today it has main weaving centres in Mandvi [kutchh] and Patan in Gujarat. [1] Both the centres are running different variety of mashru. Patan mashru is of 36” width and made on handloom. In Warp 120s to 150s rayon is used and in weft 30s cotton is used. Whereas in Mandvi they make 21” width fabric or 44” width fabric on power loom and fabric will be further finished with block printing technique. [4]

IX. UNIQUE POINT ABOUT MASHRU Mashru is known as unique weave because most of Indian weaves are either weft face or balance weave but only some fabrics like mashru are warp faced. Inspite of having silky lustre & texture, and lower price than skill, mashru fabrics are no longer used by Muslims, in fact they are worn mostly by Hindus. By decreasing demand of mashru fabrics, artisans associated with mashru are searching for other options.

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X. CONCLUSION Mashru is an old Indian fabric which was woven with blending idea in 16th century. That gave classy silky texture in affordable price. Because of its royal look many designers have started their inclination towards mashru.By making concentrated effort on improving its surface texture and quality we can promote it in global market.

REFERANCE [1.] John gillow, Nicholas Barnard/Indian traditional textile/ISBN-0-500-27709-5(1991) [2.] Hamid khatoonNaqvi/ some varieties of Indian silken stuffs in Persian sources c.1200-1700/Indian journal of history of science/vol-18/ISBN-115-129/1983 [3.] Altered / Indian Tie-Dyed fabrics/BiihleryEbrhard Fisher, MarielouiseNabholz/ Historic textiles of India at the calico museum, Ahmedabad / Vol- IV [4.] Interviewing with shaikhmohamadiqbalbhai, at patan mashru centre, Gramshree.

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