NOVEMBER 2018 S$8.50/Rp85,000/US$6.50 epicureasia.com

FRONT COVER OF THE YEAR 2017 (CONSUMER) GOLD

HOW TO… cook like a Venetian make the best chargrilled Spanish octopus eat your way Art of through Chengdu POWER DINING Private dining rooms with a difference + top sommelier picks

CONTENTS NOVEMBER 2018

Bar Cicheti

Food Wine & Drinks 70 CELLAR CHOICE Entertaining 46 TOP TOQUE 66 VINE EXPECTATIONS Wines to drink with your 74 THE RETURN OF POWER Luca Fantin of Il Ristorante Marcelo Papa of Concha y Toro client DINING Exquisite dishes from Iggy’s 58 WORK THESE ROOMS 68 RAISING THE BAR 71 TIPPLE TIPS The four private dining Catch up with your favourite A Manhattan in Singapore 86 MASTERCLASS rooms to book bartenders Char-grilled octopus and ocean tartare

2 epicureasia.com Hotel de Berri Paris

Travel Regulars 94 CHEF’S TRAVELOGUE 4 EDITOR’S NOTE 20 GLOBETROTTING EPICURE 108 TALK Chengdu offers way more than New openings in Thailand and A Ayam of One’s Own mala 13 EPICURE LOVES Vietnam American Express’ 110 STOCKISTS 98 FREQUENT FLYER Platinum Vibes 34 EPICURE LOOKBOOK Tony Gaziano, bespoke shoemaker W Kuala Lumpur 112 EPICURE’S CHOICE 14 EPICURE NEWS The things we crave this month 100 HERE COMES THE SUN Hot new menus and 36 STYLE BUZZ 72 hours in Bintan dining spots Conscious Fashion

epicureasia.com 3 EDITOR’S NOTE Bring your A-GAME TO A POWER LUNCH

hen it comes to business, I’m a firm believer that you should always eat before you negotiate. After all, a power lunch is worth a thousand faceless emails. Food cuts across different client cultures and the W ritual of a meal is sharing and cooperative in nature. Plus, keeping your business client happy and well- fed is always a good idea. There are certainly enough Wall Street-esque restaurants to cater to the high level of wheeling and dealing that goes on in this city, but the concept of power dining has also evolved through the years. While C-suites are still cutting deals at steakhouse restaurants and fine dining establishments, the hospitality scene has embraced more expressive dining concepts for those who are looking for something less formal. Our feature on page 58 recommends four private dining rooms from the latest opening to an unconventional stunner housed in a heritage building. The most beautiful restaurants can still feel a little souless without a talented and people-oriented chef. Associate editor Eve Tedja and I had the pleasure of meeting Luca Fantin of one Michelin-starred II Ristorante - Luca Fantin when he was in Bali and Singapore recently. He strikes me as someone who knows how to regale his diners with stories and also let his food do most of the talking. Tedja’s interview with Fantin appears on page 46. As a gourmet magazine, the epicure team has certainly organised a fair share of wine and food events to connect our partners and readers. The most recent one was held at Capella Singapore, where the team from Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection - whose floating boutique hotels average 130 passengers each - interacted with 24 guests. Turn to page 52 for all the highlights.

Adeline Wong Managing Editor

It took a village, from our team, The Ate Group’s publicists to Iggy’s owners Ignatius Chan and Janice We love to hear your feedback. Wong and head chef Helio Gonçalves, to put together this month’s power dining recipe spread. Feast your [email protected] instagram.com/adelinewongcy eyes on page 74.

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life’s refinements

SENIOR PUBLISHER Cecilia Goh ([email protected])

MANAGING EDITOR Adeline Wong ([email protected])

WINE EDITOR June Lee ([email protected]) ASSOCIATE EDITOR Eve Tedja ([email protected]) STAFF WRITER Jessica Chan ([email protected]) DIGITAL WRITER Victoria Lim ([email protected])

SENIOR DESIGNER Darryl Pestana ([email protected])

IT & DIGITAL MEDIA DIRECTOR Jun Evangelista ([email protected])

DIGITAL MEDIA PRODUCER Tu Jie Rui ([email protected])

CONTRIBUTORS Ching, Eddie Teo, Faz Gaffa-Marsh, Hélio Gonçalves, Lim An-Ling, Yong Woei Na

REGIONAL BUSINESS DIRECTOR Dewi Prasodjo ([email protected]) SENIOR BUSINESS MANAGER Jack Ang ([email protected])

ADMIN & MARKETING EXECUTIVE Sheila Devi ([email protected]) MARKETING EXECUTIVE Shauna Mun ([email protected])

MANAGING DIRECTOR Dennis Pua ([email protected]) PUBLISHING CONSULTANT Ho Sum Kwong ([email protected])

epicure is published 12 times a year by Magazines Integrated Pte Ltd 20 Bedok South Road, Singapore 469277 Tel: +65 6848 6868

Printed by KHL Printing Distributed by MPH Distributors (S) Pte Ltd. Company Reg No: 200918015G ISSN 2010-1155 MCI (P) 183/03/2018 epicure INDONESIA is licensed by Magazines Integrated Private Limited, registered in Singapore:

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ON THE COVER Copyright by the Publisher. Reproduction in whole or in part without the written permission of the Publisher is strictly prohibited. Views and opinions expressed in epicure are not neccessarily those of the Publisher and the Editors. Although Photos Ching every reasonable care has been taken to ensure the accuracy and objectivity of the information provided in this publication, Art direction and styling Yong Woei Na neither the Publisher, editors and their employees and agents can be held liable for any error and omission, nor any action Recipe by Helio GonÇalves of Iggy’s taken based on the views expressed or information provided within this publication. All prices are in Singapore dollars unless Shot at Iggy’s otherwise stated and exclude miscellaneous taxes.

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8 epicureasia.com Keraton at the Plaza Kristal Hotel Jakarta Mandarin Oriental, Jakarta Menara Peninsula Hotel MESA Hotels and Resorts Pullman Jakarta Indonesia Thamrin CBD Raffles Jakarta Santika Indonesia Hotels & Resorts Sari Pacific Jakarta Shangri-La Hotel Jakarta Sheraton Grand Jakarta Gandaria City Hotel The Aryaduta Hotel Jakarta The Aryaduta Suites Semanggi The Dharmawangsa Jakarta The Hermitage, a Tribute Portfolio Hotel, Jakarta The Media Hotel & Towers Wyndham Casablanca Jakarta The Pullman Jakarta Central Park The Ritz-Carlton Jakarta, Mega Kuningan The Ritz-Carlton Jakarta, Pacific Place The Sultan Hotel & Residence The Westin Jakarta

Restaurants, Clubs, Bars AMUZ Gourmet Restaurant Blue Grass Bar & Grill Boga Group Brewerkz Bar & Grill Cloud Lounge Ebisuya Restaurant El Asador Tea lounge, The Dharmawangsa En Japanese Dining Bar Enmaru Indonesia FABLE JAKARTA Indo-German Chamber of Commerce Fujin Teppanyaki & Japanese Whisky Airport Executive Lounges Indonesian-Netherlands Association GAIA Esplanade Lounge International Jakarta Foreign Correspondents Club Ganesha Ek Sanskriti Premier Lounge Merchantile Athletic Club Gardin Bistro & Patisserie Odiseus International Hide & Seek Swillhouse Apartments/Complex Residences The American Club Immigrant Ascott The Residence Locanda Italian Restaurant Aston at Kuningan Suites Golf Clubs LUC Bar & Grill Dharmawangsa Residence Admiralty Business & Sports Club Madera Kitchen Four Seasons Residences Cengkareng Soewarna Golf Club Mamma Rosy Fraser Residence Jakarta Gunung Geulis Country Club MEAT ME – House & Butchery Kempinski Residences Pondok Indah Padang Golf, Pt Mirror Nirvana Residence Kemang PT. Grand Slam Golf Monolog Quality Coffee Co. Oakwood Premier Cozmo Jakarta Rancamaya Golf & Country Club NOMZ Kitchen & Pastry Shangri-La Residence Royale Jakarta Golf Club Odysseia Restaurant The Ascott Limited Ocha & Bella The Peak – A Beaufort Residence Hotels & Resorts Autentico The Plaza Residences AYANA Midplaza Jakarta Por Que No Double Tree by Hilton Hotel Jakarta – Queens Head Beauty Clinic Diponegoro Ristorante Da Valentino Ultimo Aesthetic & Dental Care Fairmont Jakarta Salt Grill by Luke Mangan Four Seasons Hotel Jakarta Tanamera Coffee Expat Clubs & Associations Gran Mahakam The Caffeine Dispensary Admiralty Business & Sports Club Gran Melia Hotel The Goods Cafe American Chamber of Commerce Grand Hyatt Jakarta The Royal Kitchen – Indian Restaurant & Bar Australian New Zealand Association Grand Sahid Jaya Jakarta The Union Group British Chamber of Commerce Hotel Borobudur Jakarta Toscana – Italian Restaurant European Business Chamber of Commerce Hotel Indonesia Kempinski Jakarta Tugu Kunstkring Paleis Indo-French Chamber of Commerce And Hotel Mulia Senayan-Jakarta VIN + Wine & Beyond Industry JW Marriot Hotel Jakarta 3 Wise Monkeys

epicureasia.com 9 Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort Visit our website at epicureasia.com Soori Bali Suarga Padang Padang The Anvaya Beach Resort Bali The Bale The Breezes Bali Resort & Spa life’s refinements The Elysian The Laguna Resort & Spa Nusa Dua The Legian Bali The Mulia Bali The Oberoi Resort Bali The Ritz-Carlton, Bali (Nusa Dua) The Royal Pita Maha The Royal Purnama The Royal Santrian The Samata The Samaya Seminyak The Samaya Ubud The Seminyak Beach Resort & Spa The Slow The St. Regis Bali Resort The Stones Autograph Collection The Trans Resort Seminyak The Ungasan Clifftop Resort The Westin Resort Vasanti BALI Hilton Bali Resort Viceroy Hotels and Villas InterContinental Bali Resort Villa De Daun Adiwana Resort Jembawan IZE Seminyak W Bali - Seminyak Alaya Resort Ubud Jambuluwuk Oceano Seminyak Wapa di Ume Resort & Spa Alila Manggis Kamandalu Ubud Wyndham Tamansari Jivva Resort, Bali Alila Seminyak Komaneka at Bisma Alila Ubud Komaneka at Rasa Sayang Restaurants, Discos, Bars Alila Villas Uluwatu Komaneka at Tanggayuda Artotel Beach Club Amandari Kayumanis Private Villas & Spa Jimbaran Bambu Restaurant Amanusa Kayumanis Private Villas & Spa Nusa Dua Barbacoa Ametis Villa Kayumanis Private Villas & Spa Ubud Cascades Amnaya Resort Kuta L Hotel & Resort Chez Gado Gado Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa Le Jardin Boutique Villa Finn’s Beach Club Anantara Uluwatu Resort & Spa Le Meridien Jimbaran Bali Grocer & Grind Artotel Sanur - Bali Maca Villas & Spa Happy Chappy Aryaduta Bali Mahagiri Villas Henry’s Grill & Bar Awarta Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve Hu’u Bar Ayana Resort & Spa Bali Mantra Sakala Resort & Beach Club Jackson Lily’s Ayung Resorts Maya Sanur Resorts Jemme Jewelry & Dining Ayodya Resort Bali Maya Ubud Resort KU DE TA Bali Dynasty Resort Menjangan Dynasty La Finca Banyan Tree Ungasan, Bali Montigo Resorts Seminyak La Lucciola Belmond Jimbaran Mövenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali Mamasan Bulgari Resort Bali Movida Merah Putih COMO Shambhala Estate Novotel Nusa Dua Mozaic Gastronomique COMO Uma Canggu Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Republik 1945 COMO Uma Ubud Ossotel Sardine Conrad Bali Resort & Spa Padma Resort Legian Sarong Courtyard Marriott Nusa Dua Bali Padma Resort Ubud Settimo Cielo Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel Peppers Seminyak Sisterfields Double-Six Luxury Hotel Pita Maha Resort & Spa Spice by Chris Salans, Ubud Four Points by Sheraton Bali, Kuta Plataran Canggu Bali Resort & Spa Sundara Four Seasons Bali at Sayan Plataran Ubud Hotel & Spa Teatro Gastroteque Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana The Butcher’s Club Grand Hyatt Bali Puri Santrian The Holy Crab Griya Santrian Rimba Jimbaran Bali Tiger Palm Bali Hanging Gardens of Bali Rumah Luwih Vin+ Seminyak Hard Rock Hotel Bali Semara Beach House Wacko Burger

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EPICURE LOVES

Platinum vibes What would an exclusive lounge for the city’s top wheelers and dealers look like? American Express sets out to answer that question with their first in Singapore members-only space for Centurion and Platinum Members. Platinum Vibes, as the beautifully appointed pop-up space is known, features a million-dollar marina side view, as well as top-notch dining, wining, music and other curated lifestyle programmes that befit this non-traditional networking space. Chefs Emmanuel Stroobant (Saint Pierre) and Yoshio Sakuta (Shoukouwa) oversee the dining programme, while Park90 curates the fine wine list that includes Valbuena 5° 2007 from Vega Sicilia ($209) or Figeac 2009 ($289) from Bordeaux’s Right Bank. Till 31 December. #02-02/02A/03 Marina at Keppel Bay, 2 Keppel Bay Vista. amex.co/myplatinum

epicureasia.com 13 EPICURE NEWS

A yen for these A new restaurant on the block, a two Michelin-starred hotspot and the return of a crowd favourite.

Pharmaceutical executive-turned-entrepreneur Hisamizu Takahashi’s first F&B venture, RIZU, isn't a traditional restaurant. Instead, jazz music plays in the background of this dimly-lit 30-odd-seater in Duxton Hill as diners pick from a small but well-curated menu featuring assorted live fish , nigiri sushi, signature rolls and more. The latter two stand out, including the accessibly priced five-piece assorted nigiri ($30) and the spicy crunchy tuna roll (S$32), which comes with minced tuna, spicy mentaiko, crumbs and spicy mayo. We say, skip the desserts and leave some room for carbs. Among the three types of bowls on the menu, the star is the indulgent and moreish Sea Eel, Urchin, Salmon Roe Foie Gras and Caviar Rice Bowl ($50). 39 Duxton Hill. Tel: 6904 8880

Sushi Hashida's new home is now a stately two-storey Mohamed Sultan shophouse, comprising a bar and three dining rooms on RIZU the ground floor. The upper dining hall hosts private events, meetings and weddings for those who want a more exclusive venue. The autumn menu highlights seafood prepared in exacting ways, such as kinmedai torched on skin side to release its oils, while the last of the summer bonito sashimi exudes succulent with clam liver sauce. Chef Kenjiro 'Hatch' Hashida has turned his thoughts to sustainability, in big and small ways. He takes root skins, normally discarded, to be cooked in and combined with fresh wasabi for a textural condiment. All his ingredients are organically farmed, and free from genetically modified organisms or antibiotics. Under new parent company Cloud Eight, chef Hatch is also opening in Ellis Street, San Francisco in January and Tokyo in August 2019. Lunch from $80 and dinner from $300. Sushi Hashida 25 Mohamed Sultan Road. Tel: 8428 8787

14 epicureasia.com Shoukouwa

perch). Even with two seatings for both lunch and dinner, advance reservations are highly recommended. $320 for Miyabi menu, $480 for Hana menu. #02-02A, One Fullerton, 1 Fullerton Road. Tel: 6423 9939

Chef Issei Taba may only be 21 years old but he is no amateur. The top graduate of the acclaimed Insyokujin College was also the youngest winner of the Ohsaka Shoku no Miyako Grampi 2017 at age 20. The rising star, who worked at the three-time Michelin-recommended Bib Gourmand Sushi Chiharu in Osaka, now helms Sushi Chiharu by Tamaya Dining. Opt for the Menu ($140), which includes the signature Ten-piece Nigiri Sushi ($90). The items are ever-changing but, for now, look forward to Sushi Chiharu the shioyaki Ayu (salt-grilled wild sweetfish from Aichi Prefecture) Scoring a reservation at Shoukouwa isn't getting easier now that teeming with roe, delicate slivers of isaki (threeline grunt fish) and it has retained two Michelin stars for the third time. A recent ika somen (squid) that’s served with a sprinkling of homemade tasting at the edomae-style sushi restaurant reveals chef Yoshio black squid ink salt. The dessert is no less impressive. The robust Sakuta’s perennial obsession with perfect produce. Think kegani notes are rounded off by the luscious kuromitsu in the (superbly sweet hairy crab from Hokkaido), kinmedai (succulent Matcha Mizu , a worthy conclusion to an elaborate meal. golden eye snapper) from Chiba and nodoguro (black throat sea 45A Cuppage Road. Tel: 9101 3407

epicureasia.com 15 Wine down After opening Fynn's, restaurateur Ong Liling has launched another F&B concept, Bar Cicheti, this time in the hip Jiak Chaun Riad enclave. Her cousin Lim Yew Aun helms the 42-seater restaurant as chef, presenting a succinct menu of antipasti and fresh pastas to go along with a wine list devoted to small batch producers. The interiors, reminiscent of 1960s , is an ideal backdrop for delectable plates, such as Lingua Di Manzo Tonnata ($18) of braised with onion marmalade and the crowd- pleasing ($14 for tasting portion/$26 for full portion) tossed with Sarawak black pepper. Opt for a glass of Renata Fonte Negroamaro Salento, or the combination of Salvia Fritta ($8) (fried sage leaves) and Gaec du Mazel The Artist Formerly Known as Peach 2016 ($8/glass). The wines are also available in 250ml pours or as bottles. 10 Jiak Chuan Road. Tel: 6789 9801

Spanish crown The name Basque Kitchen by Aitor offers an inkling of what Unlisted Collection’s latest concept has to offer. Head chef Aitor Jeronimo Orive (formerly head chef of one Michelin-starred Iggy’s) showcases his family’s Basque Country traditions along with group wine and beverage manager Amir Solay’s intriguing selection of Spanish wines, gins, pacharáns (sloe-flavoured liqueur) and Basque ciders. Try the gyudon-inspired “Bomba” Rice, where Spanish bomba rice grains are braised with Angus oxtail, and the Txuleta. The latter is an Angus prime rib that’s been grilled to a charred black, leaving rare, succulent slivers of beef within. Lunch is priced from $45 for four courses and dinner costs $115 for seven courses. 97 Amoy Street. Tel: 6224 2232

16 epicureasia.com 10 minutes with...

BENJAMIN MAH, READING LIST director of digital transformation, Oracle

J Small Luxury Hotels of the World (SLH) offers a different glimpse of their properties through keep my stress level down. Whenever I the third edition of The have the time, I will join the Singapore Small Luxury Cookbook. Shufflers for their Monday and Wednesday There are 130 signature Interval Training at Evans Road and Kallang recipes perfected by chefs Practice Track. During the weekends, I will from its member hotels spread across almost join the 5km Parkrun at East Coast Park. 300 pages. These recipes reflect some of SLH hotels’ biggest culinary trends, such as What is your favourite dining the Naman Special Hotpot, a specialty from destination in the world? Naman Retreat in central Vietnam. Published Prague! One of the most memorable by Spirthall Business Developmen. Available experiences was soaking in some of from slhcookbook.com £45 ($79.96) Prague’s most incredible sights, like the beautiful tower of the Town Hall with the J Delve deep into astronomical clock, the elegant silhouette one of the world’s most of the fairytale-like Cathedral, and the respected and beloved historical Church of St. Martin. culinary cultures through Japan The Cookbook by Feeling starved and cold, we chanced acclaimed food writer upon La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise. and a James Beard Tell us more about your job. It is set in a historic building at the end of Award-nominated author, I am a full stack software architect a narrow lane, with bespoke chandeliers Nancy Singleton Hachisu. The elegant, – I specialise in micro-processor and hung above tables inlaid with oak. We also bamboo-effect tome features more than 400 middleware (a software that connect all dined at a Czech restaurant, where each sumptuous looking recipes, with iconic and the software together). During the course of the seven courses was preceded with regional traditions of Japan. Published by of my 22-year career, I have held senior an amuse-bouche. We tried smoked beef Phaidon. Available from kinokuniya.com $60.16 management positions in multi-national tongue with chickpea purée and pickled companies including Oracle, IBM, and CA, shallots, and garlic beef tartare on a crusty J The Ritz London: The where I drove a large part of the core pastry. There were also real surprises, Cookbook tells the story security software business and established like the gelatinous meringue that of executive chef John new business units. I am also the digital melted to release and balsamic William’s 14-year tenure economy advisor of the National Research vinegar. with the luxury hotel. The Foundation Singapore’s technology book features 100 delicious recipes and is divided into board. There, I spearhead the manpower What’s an underrated eatery in the four seasons: spring, development. Singapore? summer, autumn and winter. Each season Fatt Soon Kueh at Bedok Interchange begins with a unique cocktail and canapé How do you achieve work-life balance? Hawker Centre. They specialise in pairing, and includes main courses and I try not to bring work home. About five traditional Teochew kueh. Their Teochew desserts. Williams’ culinary philosophy and years ago, I started doing marathons cake are steamed in the expertise are accompanied by humorous and since then I have been doing at least stall. Topped with sweet black sauce or a anecdotes from the kitchen. Published by two marathons (Sundown and Standard generous sprinkle of chilli sauce, it's a solid Mitchell Beazley. Available from amazon.com. Chartered) a year. Running regularly helps . $25.47

epicureasia.com 17 Third-year beginnings Celebrating their third anniversary, Maggie Joan’s welcomes new chef Seumas Smith, the former head chef of Moosehead, who is now the group executive chef and kitchen head of this modern European spot. For the full works, try the Chef’s Selection menu (five-course at $88/person), which uses mainly organic produce, such as Australian beetroots and Scottish heather honey. While each dish is simply presented, the flavours are complex. The Hokkaido scallop dish alone features beurre blanc, Kristal caviar and tiny fried Australian Russet potato cubes which are first blanched in salted water and steamed before it's deep-fried twice – to achieve a crisp exterior and fluffy interiors. #01-01, 110 Amoy Street. Tel: 62215564

A cure for autumn If the new autumn and plant-based menus by Andrew Walsh, chef-owner of CURE are anything to go by, it won’t be the last time you’ll see his top-notch plates in our magazine. The “fine dining bistro” has brought micro-seasonal produce to the fore through several inventive dishes. Herbs like wood sorrel and purslane are celebrated in the Citizen Farm’s Caesar Salad, while the cured salmon is contrasted with crisp Irish potato flatbread ‘prata’. Other new highlights include Pumpkin Brûlée Tart served with a sprinkle of pumpkin seeds and a dollop of koshu. The five-course plant-based and tasting menus are both priced at $120. 21 Keong Saik Road. Tel: 6221 2189

18 epicureasia.com Back to wok and roll After a two-month facelift, Crystal Jade at Holland Village has launched a new menu by group executive Martin Foo. Expect comforting and well-executed homestyle dishes like Steamed Homemade topped with Assorted Seafood ($18.80). The tofu, delicately made with organic soy milk and eggs and crowned with deep-fried garlic prawns and scallop, is served in a classic tofu press. Wok-fried classics like the ubiquitous French beans ($13.80) get a flavour boost, thanks to the addition of Tai O sauce. (Tai O refers to a fishing village in that is known for its shrimp paste.) Setting the gold standard for -style porridge is the Premium Seafood , cooked for three hours in a pork-free stock redolent of , scallop, crab and prawn. Bonus: The outlet opens at 8.30am daily, ideal for drop-off moms and early risers. 2 Lor Mambong, Holland Village. Tel: 6469 0300

High-tech shopping habitat by honestbee is a 'NewGen Retail' experience that adopts advanced technology and robots to improve your grocery shopping experience. Located near Mapletree Business City, the 60,000 sq ft supermarket houses more than 20,000 products — including seasonal fruits and vegetables, seafood, meats, and cheeses — as well as 15 new eateries offering everything from grain bowls and grilled meats to boxes and soufflé pancakes. The fun part comes from the cashless, automated checkout experience and robotic collection point at the store. Simply download the honestbee app (available on i0S and Android) and make payment through beePay for online and offline purchases. Those with baskets of 10 items or less can use the “Scan & Go” function to skip the lines and get their buys on the spot. Otherwise, drop off your haul at the automated checkout and pick up your bags at the RoboCollect Station; waiting time can be as short as five minutes. Other concepts in the sprawling space include a butchery with a selection of dry-aged and snow-aged beef, a section of fresh produce sourced from farmers and growers in the region, a seafood counter that tells you where your catch comes from, and a wine and spirits corner. #01-01, 34 Boon Leat Terrace

epicureasia.com 19 GLOBETROTTING EPICURE Your foodie news around the world

Siren call Over in downtown Detroit sits The Siren Hotel, a stunning boutique hotel packed with seven F&B establishments. Earlier this year, it opened cocktail lounge Bar by chef Kate Williams (pastry chef of Lady of the House) and the hotel’s in-house coffee roaster and bar, Populace Coffee. Last month saw the addition of Garret Lipar’s Albena, an eight-seater tasting menu-only restaurant (from US$130/S$178/person). Within is an open kitchen where diners can watch on as Lipar presents the season’s best from the Great Lakes region. Next up will be another of Williams’. Karl’s, an all-day restaurant that seats up to 85, will focus on American classics. It will double up as the property’s in-house bakery, supplying fresh bakes to Populace Coffee. There will also be a rooftop bar, The Roof; a glitzy piano karaoke bar, Sid Gold’s Request Room; and a mysterious new project in collaboration with record DON CAMILLO - DAN PERETZ - DAN DON CAMILLO shop, Paramita Sound. 1509 Broadway St, Detroit, MI 48226, U.S.A. ANGELINA - SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI ANGELINA - SOFITEL LEGEND THE HILLS (INTERIOR) FOR RUN (FOOD), KRICKET - HUGH JOHNSON Tel: +1 313 277 4736 PHOTOS

20 epicureasia.com Hot new eats

One of the most anticipated restaurant transformations in the world of wellness cuisine this year, Emerald Room at Chiva-Som returns with cuisine director Paisarn Cheewinsiriwa at the helm. While still awash in a vibrant green (from which it got its name), the improved space sees a more open and contemporary setting with Thai elements. Cheewinsiriwa, who joined the group in 2003, integrates his background in Thai and European cooking with an emphasis on nutrition. Many of his immaculate dishes often showcase produce from the resort’s organic garden as well as the plenteous meats and seafood of the region. Expect to see your favourite dishes, such as Eggs Benedict and Raw Chocolate Mousse, presented anew. Cheewinsiriwa can provide customised menus to cater to different dietary needs and health goals. Chiva-Som International Health Resorts, 73/4 Petchkasem Road, Hua Hin, Prachuap Khiri Khan 77110, Thailand. Tel: +66 32 536 536

angelina at Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi has returned after a massive revamp, and we are loving the old world charm meets luxury vibe at this restaurant-bar. Lavish details, such as gold trimmings, dark wood and velvet wingback chairs, decorate the sleek two-storey interior which consists of a bar and whisky lounge on the ground level and an intimate dining area on the second. Head chef Aurélien Houguet (formerly from five-star Ashford Castle in Ireland) offers unabashedly European classics, including Lamb Pie braised with Leffe Brune dark ale (VND770,000/S$46 with two side dishes) and a mammoth 1.3kg Western Australia Wagyu Tomahawk (VND4,000,000). A bar menu that includes the likes of the decadent Angelina Lobster Roll (VND990,000) with caviar will go well with a curated range of whiskies. Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, 15 Phɧ 1g¶ 4uyɗn, Tr¢ng Tiɗn, Ho¢n Kiɕm, H¢ 1ɯi 010000, Vietnam. Tel: +84 24 3826 6919

epicureasia.com 21 Award-winning New York-based restaurant and hospitality group, Major Food Group, is shaking up the Tel Aviv’s dining scene with Don Camillo. The Italian restaurant, hidden within five-star luxury hotel The Jaffa, offers a menu with a decidedly Mediterranean and local twist, thanks to chef Rio Antebi. Antebi showcases the region’s produce in a series of what he calls “culturally blended” plates. Tortellini al Ragu (78 shekels/S$30) features goat’s milk cheese, while the Yellowtail Jaffa (68 shekels) is his take on crudo using the local fish variety. Complementing the spread is sommelier Gal Zohar’s vast selection of over 3,000 wines from Israel, France and Italy. The Jaffa, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Tel Aviv, 2, Louis Pasteur Street, Jaffa, 6803602, Israel. Tel: +972 3 7785660

Andrew Wong (of one Michelin-starred A. Wong) has opened the doors to his second restaurant Kym’s at London’s new dining destination, the Bloomberg Arcade. The two-storey, 120-seater destination diner is named after his parents’ restaurant back in Pimlico where they worked for 27 years and where he spent most of his childhood. The menu offers delectables like slow poached soy chicken with ginger relish, the indulgent ‘’ pineapple bun with custard and the return of rice-based dishes from the original Kym’s. The former is a glimpse of Wong’s experimentations with the Chinese time-honoured craft of roasting meats and his Chinese Sunday roast menu. Those coming in a big group (up to 50) can opt for the private dining area on the mezzanine level. Bloomberg Arcade, London (C41 8AR. Tel: +44 20 72207088

22 epicureasia.com It’s not just the space that has gotten bigger. At Kricket’s third home in White City, co-founder and head chef Will Bowlby offers a new menu that focuses on larger sharing plates. Guests can tuck into modern Indian dishes, ranging from an Iberico Suckling Pig Shoulder with vindaloo (£45/S$80) to a Tandoor Roasted Monkfish Tail (£18/S$32). The latter can be paired with a side of their Kashmiri Lamb Breast Pratha (£4.50) that’s been cooked in lamb fat. As with any hip London spot, there’s the bonus of a classy cocktail list, albeit with a Indian influence to match the food. Besides rum and gin, they’ve also stocked their shelves with arrack (a Southeast Asian and Indian spirit). Television Centre, 101 Wood Lane, London, W12 7FR.

sight. There are also scatterings of Buddhist home a slice of Siem Reap. Alley W, Krong Siem motifs, despite its original purpose as a Hindu Reap, Cambodia. Tel: +855 63 760 517 temple. 40 km east of Angkor Wat, Cambodia. 24 HOURS IN » 5PM Hailed as the precious gem of Khmer art, » 12PM Support local initiatives to fight poverty Bantãy Srei is a 10th century temple dedicated SIEM REAP and human trafficking by opting for a lunch at to the Hindu god, Shiva. It is known for its Sala Baï Hotel & Restaurant School. The hospitality intricate carvings in an alluring pink-toned vocational school offers fusion cuisine prepared stone, depicting incredibly animated battles and served by its students. Proceeds go to the between asura brothers, Sunday and Upasunda, students’ training fund. Wat Svay – Tonle Sap as well as Indra (god of sky) creating rain to put Road, Cambodia. Tel: +855 63 963 329 out forest fires started by Agni (god of fire). Magnus Olovson, Siem Reap, Cambodia. general manager of The Sanchaya » 2PM A quick tuk tuk ride away is Café Indochine. Taste Royal Khmer cuisine favourites like amok » 6PM Le Bel Air offers Belgian classics in trey, where a fish fillet is steamed with an the heart of Siem Reap. Go for the Gratinated » 7AM Wake up to the lush greenery of the aromatic blend of kroeung (shallots, lemongrass, Mussels with Garlic Butter or Sweetbreads Heritage Suites Hotel with a cup of khmer garlic and kaffir lime), coconut milk and wrapped Dumplings with Pan-fried Foie Gras while (Cambodian coffee). The robust, bitter notes in banana leaves, and the lok lak of stir-fried beef nursing a pint of dark beer. The hip and casual are balanced by a thick layer of condensed cubes with tek merec (black Kampot pepper). 44 ambience is ideal for relaxing after a day milk for an all-in-one caffeine and energy hit. Sivatha Street, Siem Reap, Cambodia. of sightseeing. Street 26, Krong Siem Reap, Heritage road, Wat Polanka - Phum Slok Kram, Tel: +855 92 630 958 Cambodia. Tel: +855 85 560 100 Krong Siem Reap 93101, Cambodia. Tel: +855 11 969 100 » 4PM Ly Pisith showcases the ancient art » 9PM While the night away with Dean’s Boys’ of Cambodia’s silversmithing (the country’s Mojito at Miss Wong Cocktail Bar. Opened by » 10AM Enjoy an one-hour scenic ride up to most precious metal) at Garden of Desire. The New Zealand radio journalist Dean Williams, Beng Mealea (meaning lotus pond), one of the meticulously handcrafted pieces come with the intimate space is ideal for catching up with Khmer empire’s larger temples. Made primarily modern, sculptural designs that are often adorned friends or to simply escape the hustle and of sandstone with trees and bushes growing with semi-precious stones. The rest of the street is bustle. The Lane, Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia. into its structure, it makes for a magnificent also teeming with shops for those wanting to bring Tel: +855 92 428 332

epicureasia.com 23 GLOBETROTTING EPICURE Indonesia

With more than 1,000 wine selections, VIN+ Kemang is a great option for oenophiles. Ask their wine butler for pairing recommendations to go with their special Javanese and Sumatranese set menu (Rp195,000 for two persons). The Javanese meal, for example, consists of fragrant , grilled soy snapper, pepes chicken lemon basil and grilled tempe. Or explore the flavours of Sumatra with its spicy grilled shrimp balado, ribs, potato and green chilies sambal. This set menu is available until the end of December. Jl. Kemang Raya 1o. 45B, Jakarta Selatan. Tel: +62 21 71792577

If the idea of having a hearty Roast Dijon Rib Eye or scrumptious Mini Foie Gras Beef Burger can rouse you from Sunday slumber, you are due for a visit to PASOLA at The Ritz- Carlton Jakarta, Pacific Place where executive chef Sean Macdougall and his team prepare a tasty selection of international dishes. There are also authentic Padangnese delights, such as Beef Tongue Balado. Watch the city skyline through floor-to-ceiling windows at the elegantly furnished restaurant on the sixth floor. Sunday brunch starts from 12pm to 3pm. Rp 428,000 per adult and Rp188,000 for children under 12 years old. Sudirman Central Business District (SCBD), Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 52-53, Jakarta. Tel: +62 21 25501888

24 epicureasia.com Looks-wise, the opulent Li Feng at Mandarin Oriental, Jakarta may appear intimidating though its new dishes are anything but. Wok-Fried Angus Beef with Bell Pepper and Special Sauce (Rp378,000), Deep-Fried Prawn with Special Sweet & Spicy Sauce (Rp238,000) and Almond and Black Sesame Dumpling with Peanut (Rp68,000) are simple but tasteful dishes created by chef Fei Huang, whose restaurant Jiang at Mandarin Oriental, Guangzhou was awarded one Michelin star this year. Mandarin Oriental, Jakarta, Jl. MH Thamrin, Jakarta. Tel: +62 21 29938825

OSO Ristorante Jakarta recently revamped its interiors and menu. Working closely with OSO Ristorante Singapore’s founders, Diego Chiarini and Stephane Colleoni, the 12-seater restaurant features seasonal produce from different parts of Italy with a particular emphasis on Puglia’s Hotel Borobudur Jakarta’s Teratai Chinese Restaurant recently seafood. It is not a surprise since the kitchen is led by a launched an All You Can Eat promotion. For Rp268,000 per Pugliese, executive chef Nazario Orlando, who translates his person, you can enjoy a wide selection of handmade siew mai, har expertise into a produce-driven menu. Treat yourself to a five- gow, xiao long bao, and other classic dim sum. Available every Sunday course set menu (Rp680,000) featuring Ravioli Foie Gras and and on public holidays, the dim sum feast takes place at the hotel’s Wagyu Beef Cheef on Truffle Soft Polenta or order signature contemporary Cantonese restaurant. There are four private rooms dishes such as Nero (Rp200,000) and Milanese to cater to guest size ranging from six to 16. Jl. Lapangan Banteng (Rp480,000). Altitude at The Plaza, 46th Floor Jl MH Thamrin Kav Selatan, Jakarta Pusat. Tel: +62 21 3805555 ext. 73200 28-30, Jakarta. Tel: +62 21 29922448

epicureasia.com 25 For a healing Balinese spa experience, consider Visesa Balinese Healing & Spa. Inspired by Bali Usada, the age-old healing treatments use medicinal herbs and spices and aim to balance the five elements within the body. The spa recently launched three different treatments: the Beauty Therapy (Rp1,000,000), Ghanta Beauty Ritual (Rp2,000,000) and Touch of Inner Beauty (Rp200,000). The first incorporates a calming aromatherapy massage and foot ritual for 90 minutes, while the two-hour Ghanta Beauty Ritual consists of body massage and a reviving flower bath. The Touch of Inner Beauty lasts for 30 minutes and promises to put a glow on your face through a unique facial therapy. Jl. Suweta, Banjar Bentuyung Sakti, Ubud, Gianyar. Tel: +62 877 4532 5571

One of the largest pearl farming producers in the world, Indonesia is a hotbed of South Sea pearls. Post-harvesting, the meat of the oyster is sold as a delicacy. Cuca Restaurant has collaborated with Atlas Pearls to create a dish that highlights the scallop-like texture of the pearl meat. “The Midnight Risotto” is made of shaved pearl oysters, white wine veloute, crispy rice, squid ink, confit garlic cloves and cauliflower purée,” explains chef Kevin Cherkas. To savour this delicate dish (Rp150,000), a one-week advance reservation is required. Jl. Yoga Perkanthi, Jimbaran. Tel: +62 361 708066

26 epicureasia.com Renowned for its contemporary take on classic Italian fare, Settimo Cielo also provides an intimate location for pre-dinner drinks. Join their L’Aperitivo from 4pm to 6pm every Sunday to Thursday; that’s when you get a one for one deal on sangria as well as selected cocktails and beers. Combine the drinks with tasty bites such as Arancini of Beef Ragu (Rp115,000) or Crisp Zucchini Blossoms with salsa verde (Rp95,000). Jl. Pangkung Sari 10X, Seminyak. Tel: +62 361 4741117

Cementing Potato Head Family’s position as one of Indonesia’s most progressive F&B groups, Ijen is the first zero-waste restaurant in the archipelago. Located on the hip grounds of Potato Head Beach Club Bali, the airy venue is designed using sustainable materials, from its recycled truck tyres menu to the wood and foam off cuts chairs. The tasty fare from chef Wayan Kresna Yasa and his team is made possible by a supply of fresh line-caught fishes and other seafood delights. Do not miss the aromatic oven-roasted fresh fish of the day, Fillet in Banana Leaf (Rp250,000) or the Smoky Garlic Prawn (Rp120,000). Potato Head Beach Club Bali, Jl. Petitenget 1o.51B, Seminyak. Tel: +62 361 4737979

Golden Lotus Chinese Restaurant’s crabs are served in three ways to suit your palate. Tuck into the tasty Kalimantan Chili Crab, opt for the Soft Shell Crab Golden Sand for a deep-fried infusion of garlic and herbs or have the Crab Meat Balls served with braised bean curd. The tasty dishes are priced at Rp185,000 each and include steamed and chef’s signature vegetable dish. Available until the end of December. Bali Dynasty Resort, Jl. Kartika, Tuban, Kuta Selatan. Tel: +62 361 752403

epicureasia.com 27 Mama Makan’s lavish rijstaffel feast is an exciting way to taste the cornucopia of flavour that belongs to in one seating. BEST OF INDONESIA

On the rice table Is rijstaffel the key to catapulting Indonesian cuisine to the international stage? Eve Tedja travelled to Amsterdam and discovered that the traditional Dutch-Indo ritual is alive and thriving.

ust give me and egg, with sambal and krupuk there are roughly 1.8 million Indonesian diasporas living in the “ and a glass of beer! There’s no rice cake, pork , country. The first generation emigrated from 1946 to 1968. The Jno spiciness anywhere. No shrimp paste, fried grated second- and third-generation grew up eating savoury coconut, milkfish, and tofu with petis sauce. Lapis cake, onde- for breakfast. There is also a large community of Mollucans onde, no cassava or bakpao, no sticky rice, no Javanese palm who immigrated to the Netherlands in the 1950s and a sizable …,” lamented Wieteke van Dort in a song that she wrote Javanese Suriname community. in 1977 after she had to leave Indonesia with her family due to Taufik Rachman was one of the first waves of Indonesian the anti-Dutch sentiment. At first, the Surabaya-born singer immigrants who left his hometown of Surabaya and moved to and actress found her new home, Netherlands cold and its food Amsterdam in 1970. “Back then, there were probably less than unappealing. To her Indonesian palate, rice was still the best. The 10 Indonesian eateries in Amsterdam and ingredients were song, titled Geef Mij Maar 1asi Goreng, went to become a classic quite hard to find and expensive,” says the soft-spoken 69-year- hit in Netherlands, tugging at the heartstrings of its inhabitants old restaurateur. In 1992, he opened Terang Boelan, a takeout whose ancestries and roots are deeply intertwined with Indonesian eatery in the quiet district of Jordaan. A large clear Indonesia through the bitter sweet history of Dutch colonisation. glass covered counter full of Indonesian delicacies such as urap There are approximately more than 2,000 Indonesian eateries sayur, sayur lodeh, beef rendang, lamb curry, and sate ayam in Netherlands. From a simple eatery that the Dutch fondly call stands in the middle of the joint. Customers can choose between toko to a fine dining establishment with an elaborate rijstaffel or white rice and fried noodles and combine their carbs with few rice table setup, Indonesian cuisine has been an inseparable part kinds of meat and vegetable dishes, customising a plate of hearty of Netherland’s multicultural food lexicon. On the other hand, nasi rames based on their personal preference. Everything is if you visit any city in Indonesia today and ask a local where to cooked from scratch daily by Rachman and his team of helpers. eat rijstaffel, you will most likely get a blank look. A rijstaffel, “I think the artistry of Indonesian cuisine is that you don’t have a Dutch-Indo culinary fusion, was created during the colonial to use expensive ingredients to create flavourful dishes. It just period in 1870s. It was an extravagant dining experience where takes time to prepare, that’s all,” explains Rachman while warmly one could enjoy a wide variety of Dutch and Indonesian dishes greeting one of his loyal customers. in one sitting. At its most grandiose, a rijstaffel dining experience Terang Boelan is one of many toko in Amsterdam that caters could feature 40 different dishes during a single meal. Each dish to the Dutch’s growing appetite and appreciation for Indonesian was carried by waitresses lining up to serve the mijnheer and food, according to Asri Anisa Prasadani. A second-generation mevrouws. After Indonesia proclaimed its independence in 1945, Indonesian who was born and raised in Amsterdam, Prasadani’s this Dutch colonial ritual gradually disappeared. Instead, a more parents moved to the city more than 40 years ago and she grew egalitarian approach in the form of nasi rames eateries took its up eating her mother’s home-cooked Indonesian dishes, such EVE TEDJA EVE

AND place. as soto ayam, and celebrated her family’s milestones with nasi The precise numbers of Indonesian diaspora and their , the cone-shaped which she jokingly calls descendants are hard to tally due to different periods of the real Indonesian rijstaffel. She admits that there has been a immigration and intermarriage. According to Ebed Litaay, resurgence of Indonesian cuisine as pop-ups and fine dining MAMA MAKAN INDONESIAN KITCHEN, KITCHEN, MAMA MAKAN INDONESIAN president of Indonesian Diaspora Network – Netherland Chapter restaurants are opening up in Amsterdam’s trendy areas. “It

PHOTOS PHOTOS BLAUW RESTAURANT (2015-2017) in an interview with SWA, an online magazine, is heartening to see a growing interest in Indonesian cuisine

epicureasia.com 29 The Indonesian talents behind Restaurant Blauw: Isti, Asep Kuswandi and Felix Pontoh. although I think there are still contemporary setting. It opened so many of our regional dishes its Amsterdam branch 10 years which are still unknown here. ago, powered by a team of We have all the ingredients talented Indonesian chefs with available. What we need are their own heirloom family more Indonesian chefs and recipes, from Ikan Asam Padeh to restaurants who dare to go the crowd-pleasing Sate Kambing beyond serving gado-gado and Restaurant Blauw offers à la carte prove that there is so much dishes as well as three different more to Indonesian food than rijstaffel set menus; these just peanut sauce,” enthuses gastronomic treats are served in Prasadani. exquisite small bowls. Amsterdam receives roughly Nearby, a new Indonesian Restaurant Blauw’s 5.7 million visitors per year. tasty rijstaffel also restaurant has been making caters for pescaterian To many pleasantly surprised and vegetarian diets. a splash in the leafy historical tourists, Amsterdam is where neighbourhood called the they experience Indonesian Plantage. Mama Makan cuisine for the first time, making “There’s no doubt that Indonesian Kitchen, located adjacent the city the perfect getaway to to Hyatt Regency Amsterdam, has introduce the flavoursome cuisine introducing Indonesian been receiving rave reviews for from the archipelago to a wider cuisine to other countries its swanky design and flavourful audience outside its country of Indonesian delights. Its association origin. “We have been serving the would be a great success” with a five-star hotel has also elevated rice table concept to international - Meta van den Boomen, the image of Indonesian cuisine and guests and they were always manager of Restaurant Blauw cemented its international reputation. blown away,” shares Meta van den At the heart of Mama Makan Boomen, manager of Restaurant Indonesian Restaurant, is Rosmina Blauw. Napitupulu, an Aceh-born and Jakarta-raised chef. Together with First opened in Utrecht, Restaurant Blauw quickly gained her Indonesian kitchen team, the culinary veteran is upping the recognition for serving authentic Indonesian cuisine in a ante on Javanese and Balinese regional cuisine.

30 epicureasia.com Terang Boelan’s Indonesian fare. WHERE TO GO

J Mama Makan Indonesian Kitchen Spinozastraat 61, 1018 HJ, Tel: +62 31 20 5541250

J Restaurant Blauw Amsterdam Amstelveenseweg 158-160, 1075 XN, Tel: +31 20 6755000

J Sari Citra Ferdinand Bolstraat 52, 1072 LL, Tel: +31 20 6754102

J Tempo Doeloe Utrechtsestraat 75, 1017 VJ, Tel: +31 20 6256718 “Indonesian food is all about sharing. J Terang Boelan That is why Mama Makan’s signature rijstaffel Tweede Lindendwarsstraat 3, 1015 LH, remains everyone’s favourite,” says Napitupulu Tel: +31 20 6209974 as she works behind her open kitchen and grinds pastes and spices in a mortar and “I have found out since I was Taufik Rachman of pestle, the familiar fragrant aroma wafting Terang Boelan young that I love to make people happy delightfully in the air. Accompanied by crafted through food. That’s why the dishes botanical cocktails, which are inspired by herbs and spices from that we have here are the ones that are close to my heart. Food the archipelago, the restaurant showcases the best of Indonesia that I have cooked, shared, and enjoyed with my loved ones. to cosmopolitan guests and Amsterdammers alike. Nutmeg, a Hopefully, our guests will enjoy it too and it will become part concoction made of celery gin, vermouth, cherry liquor, tonic of their memory and experience,” says Napitupulu. Indeed, water and nutmeg, is the perfect companion to a rijstaffel feast there is nothing to stop Indonesian cuisine from shining on the that includes a heartwarming bowl of Soto Madura. global stage when passion meets rijstaffel in a delightful burst of Tiny gems arrive on the table in the form of grilled banana authentic flavours. e leave wrapped fishcake and spicy shredded chicken and chicken satay bathed in peanut sauce. As the dinner progress, so does the level of heat. It is a sign that the authentic Indonesian experience is alive and happening as Fried Fish with Sambal Matah, Sambal Balado , and Woku Shrimp Sambal next appear. Opor Ayam, Gulai Kambing and Beef Rendang complement the meal perfectly. Each and every dish is lovingly made from scratch, a time-consuming feat that quite often makes Indonesian cuisine challenging to replicate. By way of presentation, rijstaffel certainly stands out. Who wouldn’t feel special when Chef Rosmina Napitupulu and her they are presented with lavishly colleague, head chef Martin Robl. prepared delicacies in one go?

epicureasia.com 31 LOOKBOOK

A confluence of style The recently opened W Kuala Lumpur brings playful energy to the city’s famous Golden Triangle district. By Eve Tedja

he past few years have seen a floor-to-ceiling waterfall-like rope WOOBAR offers a a rapid transformation of stylish social space screen illuminated by neon pink to enjoy the nightly T Kuala Lumpur’s skyline vibes of the city. LED, the standing reception table is with more ambitious skyscrapers and shaped like a plateau. Looking up, one luxurious five-star hotels being built. will notice a swirling pattern on the The capital city is set to welcome ceiling, while hand-crafted wooden more visitors in the upcoming years, chandeliers that hang on top of the so it’s perhaps timely that W Kuala reception table, bring to mind the Lumpur opened its doors in August traditional spinning top. with an electronic fanfare. The adjacent Living Room and Situated across the Petronas Twin WOOBAR enhance the W’s playfulness Towers, W Kuala Lumpur stands in the by providing spaces that encourage heart of the city’s Golden Triangle. It is interaction and conversation through right at home in the cosmopolitan centre of commerce, shopping its sinuously designed furniture and vibrant pop of colours. An and nightlife, a perfect fit for a hotel brand with a passion for outdoor area at the WOOBAR provides a secluded corner for a tête- music, design, fashion, and food. At night, the hotel’s façade boldly à-tête in the company of lush tropical foliage and rustic wooden lights up with the help of traffic-stopping neon LED fixtures, bold floors. In another bold statement, a cascade of steel-mirrored lines and tinted glass that sparkle like a box of jewellery. The hotel grand staircase dramatically reflects the texture and patterns takes up 23 floors out of the 55-storey building and features 150 from the surrounding interior in a constantly shifting dynamic, guest rooms and suites, which include two WOW suites and the depending on where the viewer stands. It is an art form in itself Extreme WOW Suite – the W’s take on presidential suite. Taking and makes for an arresting spatial focal point. inspiration from the story of Kuala Lumpur itself, the design is The rapidly popular WET Deck offers an unmatched panorama crafted out of the city’s two identities, as a confluence of two of the Petronas Twin Towers from its vicinity on the 12th floor. In a rivers and a diverse, multicultural jungle city that marries age-old nod to the jungle city narrative, the poolside bar and lounge is the culture with urban modernity. hotel’s bird’s nest where one can enjoy the view of the concrete jungle as well as creative mixology. It is the place to see and be The scene to be seen seen right now in Kuala Lumpur, especially when a DJ is spinning The awe-inspiring entrance introduces guests to a pixel pattern, by the vast pool that sports a pixelated tile pattern. an element integrated throughout the hotel and is cleverly used to convey the broad spectrum of Malaysia’s multicultural diversity. Rest and fuel Futuristic in its form, the entrance cleverly mixes traditional batik As guests leave the public area and enter the privacy of their pattern and applies it on the sleek metal panel wall complete rooms, they will pass the corridor with wood-panelled walls and with the bamboo-inspired chandeliers and a changing LED-lit the aforementioned pixelated pattern that now appears on the W KUALA LUMPUR W KUALA welcome wall. As a tribute to the two rivers that shaped the city, carpet. Tastefully blending tradition with modernity, the rooms

the welcome lobby is designed organically. Intricately shaped by and suites are adorned with delightful details in dashing colours. PHOTOS

32 epicureasia.com With a dramatic view of the Petronas Twin Towers, WET Deck fashionably mixes bold design with a sense of playfulness, making it the most happening rooftop bar lounge in Kuala Lumpur.

epicureasia.com 33 Thoroughly modern with a focus on sustainable farm-to-flock specialties, FLOCK also pays tribute to the Malay heritage in its design accent, such as the display of enamel tiffins in pop colours.

Natural daylight plays an important There are batik patterned role in the design of the rooms, as can There is YEN, a regal be seen in the Spectacular Room. metal panels above the modern Cantonese headboards and taro leaves restaurant that takes throw pillows on the plush dark wooden floors, a beds. Next to the beds, as can chinoserie décor and be seen in the Spectacular juxtaposes them with Rooms, a pendant lamp made the lighting fixture on of beads hangs down from the the ceiling that glows ceiling. It is a tribute to the resplendently. At the indigenous tribe of Malaysia, all-day dining FLOCK, the Orang Asli and their sustainability plays trinket. Each and every room an important role in a is endowed with natural light menu that highlights during the day from the large a mix of Western window; at night, a dramatic ambience is created through the use fare and Malaysian favourites. Despite the sleek industrial look, it of mood lighting that invites one to rest. features familiar details, such as the enamel tiffins on top of the Meanwhile, AWAY Spa, with its clean lines and wooden buffet counters as well as a criss cross wallpaper that resembles surfaces, offers tranquillity. The area covers 12,000 sq ft that the woven bamboo basket. Apart from WET Deck and WOOBAR, includes treatment rooms, vitality pools, chroma-therapy steam there are two privately managed dining venues, Saint Pierre, baths, bio-infrared sauna, and a beauty house. The low lighting a French restaurant by chef Emmanuel Stroobant that earned and hushed ambience creates a dramatic interplay between one Michelin star at its Singapore location, and WICKED, a VIP darkness and light. W Kuala Lumpur boasts six dining venues. nightclub to dance the night away. e

34 epicureasia.com

STYLE BUZZ

Conscious Fashion Drawing parallels with the F&B industry, the fashion landscape is seeing a rise in conscious consumerism. From eco-friendly materials to fair trade labour practices, we take a closer look at the American brands that are paving the way and doing it right. By Faz Gaffa Marsh

ledging an allegiance to a vague sense of sustainability is no longer enough. Ethically- minded consumers want to know the social and environmental impact of a fashion P purchase, just as chefs and gourmands are leaning towards biodynamic wines or produce-driven fare to support local farmers and lower the carbon footprint. Think a sleek Chelsea boot defly put together using leather off-cuts or a statement jewellery that showcases the natural beauty of untreated gemstones. And it comes as no surprise that New York, one of the world’s fashion capitals, is leading the conscious pack. Here are four of our favourite brands that are doing just that.

36 epicureasia.com AMUR amur.com

Amur was born from the concept that great style does not have to come at the expense of the environment. With sustainably- sourced materials as the canvas, the brand flaunts vivid prints and sharp tailoring. It’s tailored for the confident, modern women who lives conscientiously and consciously.

epicureasia.com 37 XIAO WANG JEWELRY xiaowangnyc.com

Kitschy fine jewellery line Xiao Wang Jewelry believes in ethically-sourced materials. The designer uses reclaimed gold, that in turn minimises mining waste as well as natural, untreated gemstones and diamonds that have been responsibly mined and are entirely conflict free. The product? Dreamy works of art that you want to wear forever. The designer also accepts custom commissions.

BROTHER VELLIES brothervellies.com

Based in Brooklyn, this brand of traditional African footwear was founded by Aurora James. All her footwear, including boots, shoes and sandals are handmade in South Africa, Ethiopia, Kenya and Morocco. Most of the leather shoes use Kudu leather, an animal by-product that is a result of a government- mandated culling due to over population. (The meat is sold at local markets or donated.) James also uses Nile Perch, Springbok and Rabbit, all of which are sourced in Africa and are entirely by-products from the food industry. Leftover leather from making adult shoes are saved for Brother Minis, the brand’s line of kids’ shoes.

38 epicureasia.com TOME

The brainchild of designers Ramon Martin and Ryan Lobo, TOME exclusively utilises sustainable fabrics and has reexamined its internal practices by monitoring their supply chain and conducting periodic check-ins at their factories. Their pieces are all about form and function; pieces infinitely wearable with luxurious yet functional fabrications.

epicureasia.com 39 A fine feast The privileges and perks offered by these stellar restaurants across Singapore and Indonesia are just some of the dining options available exclusively to UnionPay Cardholders.

SHISEN HANTEN BY CHEF KENTARO Level 35, Orchard Wing, Mandarin Orchard Singapore, 333 Orchard Road. Tel: 6831 6266

Third-generation chef Chen Kentaro not only helms Shisen Hanten by Chef Kentaro Ȃ the ȴrst overseas outpost for the -apanese Sichuan restaurant chain, Shisen Hanten – but has also maintained its two Michelin stars for three years consecutively. Highlights include the ȴery Chenȇs Mapo 'oufu, which follows his original family recipe, and Sautéed Szechwan Chilli Pepper and Chicken. In the latter, Chen uses Hokkaido potato ȵour for a thin, crisp coating that soaks up the sauce while keeping the meat tender.

. Two seven-course U-menus are available; $168 for set menu A and $238 for set menu B

PEACH GARDEN SI CHUAN DOU HUA PARKROYAL ON KITCHENER ROAD www.peachgarden.com.sg 181 Kitchener Road, Singapore 208533. Tel: 6428 3170

Whether youȇre looking for reȴned or a meal Be it for a family feast or corporate function, you can always with loved ones, Peach Garden is it. With seven locations across count on Si Chuan 'ou Hua to whip up authentic Sichuan and Singapore, the award-winning restaurant group o΍ers authentic Cantonese dishes. Expect dishes such as the fragrant Stir-fried Chinese cuisine with a contemporary twist. Expect signatures like Prawns with Soya Bean Crumbs in Osmanthus Sauce or the crispy 'eep-fried Prawns with Wasabi and Roasted Peking 'uck as well Flambe Roast Suckling Pig as well as their signature dessert, the as di΍erent menus to cater to a variety of guests at each outlet. Homemade Bean Curd with Wolfberries. . 1 o΍ ¢ la carte menu and dim sum menu witK minimum sSend . 18 o΍ ¢ la carte food bill &omSlimentar\ bottle of red wine witK of $50 ever\ 6 diners on birtKda\ montK ([clusive U-menu wKen available SI CHUAN DOU HUA TOP OF UOB PLAZA JIA WEI CHINESE RESTAURANT 82%3OD]D5DɞHV3ODFH7HO 2F, Grand Mercure Singapore Roxy, 50 East Coast Road. Tel: 6340 5678 O΍ering diners unparalled panoramic views of the Singapore skyline, Si Chuan 'ou Hua TOP of UOB Plaza serves authentic -ia Wei Chinese Restaurant o΍ers a bevy of Cantonese dishes. Sichuan and and is the ideal location for The extensive menu, which includes double-boiled soups, corporate functions and celebrations. Additions to the newly succulent seafood and roast meats, will keep you satiated, but revamped à la carte menu include the Sliced Beef with Vermicelli you canȇt go wrong with their Barbecue Peking 'uck and Braised in Preserved Chilli Broth and a fragrant Fried Rice with Sliced Home-made Bean curd with Seafood on hotplate. Remember to American Beef and Truɞe sauce, topped with Poached Egg. save space for their indulgent dessert, the Homemade 'urian Paste. . 18 o΍ ¢ la carte food bill &omSlimentar\ bottle of red wine witK ever\ 6 diners on birtKda\ montK ([clusive U-menu wKen available . 20 o΍ ¢ la carte menu

BART ARTOTEL BEACH CLUB ARTOTEL Sanur-Bali, Jl. Kusuma Sari No.1, Sanur, Denpasar Sel., ARTOTEL Sanur-Bali, Jl. Kusuma Sari No.1, Sanur, Denpasar Sel., Kota Denpasar, Bali 80227, Indonesia. Tel: +62 361 472 1000 Kota Denpasar, Bali 80227, Indonesia. Tel: +62 361 4491888

It's not just the unparallelled view of Sanur that keeps the hip For a fuss-free beach getaway, thereȇs $rtotel Beach Club. $ll crowd coming back to B$RT. Sanurȇs ȴrst rooftop bar boasts 7,000 sqm of the beachfront oasis is decked out in sunbeds, a innovative cocktails with Tuirky names. Thereȇs the 1ever Ending bamboo tree house, a swimming pool, four bars and a two-storey Ex, a punchy tropical mix, and the French Kiss which features restaurant. The latter is where Belgian chef Manuel E΍endi dishes vodka and X-Rated liqueur (made of Sicilian blood orange, mango out what he calls tropical comfort cuisine, where Baliȇs many and passionfruit), just to name a few. exotic fruits and vegetables take center stage.

. Two cocNtails at tKe Srice of one . 15 o΍ food and beveraJes ARTICHOKE BANYUBIRU Radisson Blu Bali Uluwatu, Jl. Pemutih, Labuan Sait, Uluwatu, The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa Kawasan Pariwisata Pecatu, Bali 80364, Indonesia. Tel: + 62 361 3008889 Nusa Dua Lot N2, Nusa Dua, ID-BA 80363. Tel: +62 361 771327

When it comes to the most important meal of the day, you canȇt Be pampered to the hilt at Banyubiru at The Laguna. Situated go wrong with Artichoke. The casual brasserie is home to the hotel next to the propertyȇs stunningly blue lagoon and surrounded by groupȇs famed Super Breakfast bu΍et which features a vast variety greenery, the restaurant is teeming with western and pan-Asian of international and regional favourites. Best of all, the terrace plates. Every Wednesday and Sunday will see a Balinese-themed o΍ers a panoramic view of the ocean. spread, but guests can still tuck into Ayam Betutu, a -avanese Lamongan Soto Ayam (turmeric chicken broth with kaɝr lime leaves) or simmered meatballs in Balinese broth from the live noodle station.

. 10 o΍ food and beveraJe . 15 o΍ food onl\

ARWANA The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot N2, Nusa Dua, ID-BA 80363. Tel: +62 361 771327

Executive chef Made Putra didnȇt have to look far to create the menu at Arwana. Inspired by bounteous o΍erings of the sea surrounding Indonesia, Putra presents a six-course tasting menu with a decidedly Indonesian inȵuence. Butterȴsh carpaccio is presented with sambal matah, while the Angus Sirloin Rendang features 200-day grain-fed Angus beef and crispy, dried beef . Thereȇs also his signature Lobster Thermidor, sourced from the Arafura sea and baked with Balinese Raclette cheese.

. 15 o΍ food onl\ FILINI KUL KUL BAR+ Radisson Blu Bali Uluwatu, Jl. Pemutih, Labuan Sait, Uluwatu, The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa Kawasan Pecatu, Bali 80364, Indonesia. Tel: + 62 361 3008888 Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot N2, Nusa Dua, ID-BA 80363. Tel: +62 361 771327 The lush interiors and authentic Italian fare has already cemented Filini as Uluwatuȇs drawcard for a memorable evening with your The al fresco seats at Kul Kul Bar are hot commodities for good other half. Twirls of homemade pappardelle drenched in lamb reason. They o΍er an unmatched view of 1usa 'ua Bay, and is a ragu or a massive tomahawk with the classic accompaniments of prime location for soaking up the soft sunset glow and its tropical roasted garlic and herbs butter are served with a gorgeous view cocktails. Frozen margaritas and pina coladas might rank high, but of the garden terrace, awash in a soft, golden hue, courtesy of the go for the innovative mix of rosemary-infused gin and pear purée in stunning water-ȴre fountain. their iconic The Last Cocktail (even if its just the start of the night).

. 10 o΍ food and beveraJe . 15 o΍ food onl\

CORNERSTONE DULANG The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa Kawasan The St. Regis Bali Resort, Kawasan Pariwisata, Nusa Dua, Lot S6, Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot N2, Nusa Dua, ID-BA 80363. Nusa Dua, ID-BA 80363. Tel: + 62 361 300 3782 Tel: +62 361 771327 'ulang presents Indonesian haute cuisine within sumptuous Take a respite from The Laguna's many beachside activities at interiors thatȇs reminiscent of the archipelagoȇs colonial past. The Cornerstone, a casual eatery and deli. Theyȇve got everything intimate venue sits up to 24 and is known for spectacular to satisfy even the pickiest of eaters. There are , pastas, feasts. Multiple dishes, ranging from a Sumatran octopus curry to sushi and even a hearty bakmi goreng (wok-fried egg noodles spicy beef ribs from Manado, are all laid out before guests, giving with chicken or seafood) to go along with a curated selection of them a glimpse into the many cultures that make up the cuisine. Indonesian wines, including a sparkling rose made from local End with a cup of Bali's famed kopi luwak (civet cat co΍ee). grape variety Alphonse Lavalle from Hatten Winery. Or, take home bottles of their homemade sambals from the Sambal Corner.

. 15 o΍ food onl\ . 15 o΍ food onl\ GOURMAND DELI The St. Regis Bali Resort, Kawasan Pariwisata, Nusa Dua, Lot S6, Nusa Dua, ID-BA 80363. Tel: + 62 361 300 6799 -ust below the lobby of The St. Regis Bali Resort lies an emporium of western delicacies, artisan cheeses and wines from across the globe. While guests can dig into a Pan-roasted Milk Fed Rack of Lamb and fresh catch from the Indian Ocean thatȇs pan-seared à la meuniªre within their garden, thereȇs also a counter teeming with homemade ice creams, chocolates and wines from the deli counter.

. 15 o΍ food onl\

KING COLE BAR BONEKA The St. Regis Bali Resort, Kawasan Pariwisata, Nusa Dua, Lot S6, The St. Regis Bali Resort, Kawasan Pariwisata, Nusa Dua, Lot S6, Nusa Dua, ID-BA 80363. Tel: + 62 361 300 6796 Nusa Dua, ID-BA 80363. Tel: + 62 361 300 6782

Since 1933, when Fernand Petiot brought his original creation of Set within a tropical garden that leads into the Indian Ocean, Bloody Mary (then known as The Red Snapper) to St. Regis 1ew Boneka is the ideal spot for brunch. Come by on Sunday for their

. 15 o΍ food onl\ . 15 o΍ food onl\ includinJ 6unda\ BruncK

Terms and conditions apply. Offers valid until 1 July 2019. Visit www.unionpayintl.com/en/ for full details. LI FENG MO BAR QGȵRRU0DQGDULQ2ULHQWDO-DNDUWD-DODQ0+7KDPULQ-DNDUWD QGȵRRU0DQGDULQ2ULHQWDO-DNDUWD-DODQ0+7KDPULQ-DNDUWD 10310, Indonesia. Tel: +62 21 2993 8825 10310, Indonesia. Tel: +62 21 2993 8827

Tucked away at Mandarin Oriental -akarta, Li Feng o΍ers a menu A trailblazer in -akartaȇs bar scene, MO Bar is where youȇll ȴnd of modern Cantonese dishes by award-winning chef Chang expertly crafted cocktails. Settle into their plush armchairs or See Loy and Fei (of one Michelin-starred -iang). Savour familiar by the window before turning your attention to their signature ȵavours, presented anew, in dishes like Wok Fried Angus Beef and collection. Try the Ice Campur Colada, a play on the iconic dessert Bell Pepper in Special Sauce and the intricate 'eep-Fried Swan with vanilla vodka and homemade grass jelly. 'umpling with Black Pepper 'uck Meat.

. 10 o΍ for food onl\ . Bu\ one Jet one for beers wines sSirits and selected cocNtails

ROOFTOP POOL&BAR $U\DGXWD%DOL+RWHO-DODQ.DUWLND3OD]D.XWD.DEXSDWHQ%DGXQJ%DOLΖQGRQHVLD7HO

As the name suggests, RoofTop Pool Bar is the quintessential address for catching Baliȇs splendid sunsets. Located high up on the Lippo Mall Kuta, it is where youȇll ȴnd a semi-Olympic pool and a sunken bar to dip your toes into while enjoying western and Indonesian classics. Whatȇs more, a '- spins by on Friday and Saturday evenings for a Sunset Session -am.

. 15 o΍ food “Tradition is very important, but even tradition changes over time. We eat differently and approach life in different ways. There is always room for improvement.”

46 epicureasia.com TOP TOQUE

A man for all seasons Pushing the envelope on contemporary in Tokyo, Luca Fantin shares his fascination with tradition and how Japan changed his appreciation for seasonal produce at Il Ristorante – Luca Fantin with Eve Tedja.

he luminous Bvlgari Ginza Tower stands tall in the middle What do you enjoy most from working with guest chefs through of the luxury shopping district of Ginza, Tokyo. Home to the Four Hands events? T largest Bvlgari store in the world, the building also houses It’s the sharing and understanding of the different culinary styles one of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2018 on the 9th floor. Ranked at and techniques. For the guest chefs, it is often a one-of-a-kind number 28, the Il Ristorante - Luca Fantin received the recognition experience. A Four Hands dinner is not a showdown but more for its ingenuity in integrating the deceptive simplicity of Italian about how to create an overall exceptional experience. As such, I cuisine with Japan’s seasonal bounty of ingredients. This fruitful usually ask the guest chefs to decide on their dishes first before marriage produces four seasonal menus throughout the year. I complement their selection. There are delectable dishes such as Tagliatelle with Raw Lobster for autumn (a dish bathed in a broth made of crustacean bits) and How has Japan changed you over the years? Risotto with Radicchio and Red Wine Sauce for winter. The latter I have lived in Japan for nine years and it has taught me a lot layers Japanese-grown radicchio and rice with a touch of Italian in terms of gastronomy and the way the Japanese always strive flavour. for perfection. This attention and continuous attempt to reach Luca Fantin is the indomitable force behind the restaurant. perfection down to the smallest details never cease to amaze me. I Born in Treviso, Italy, Fantin trained at some of the world’s most am also very inspired by the pervading obsession with the seasons. legendary kitchens, such as Cracco in , Gualtiero Marchesi’s We also have the four seasons in Italy but we don’t obsess over it Hostaria dell’Orso in Rome, Akelarre and Mugaritz in Spain, and like the Japanese do. In Italy, you can find basic cooking ingredients Le Pergola in Rome. Among its several accolades, Il Ristorante – all year long. Spring and autumn feel shorter and tightly squeezed Luca Fantin received one Michelin star in 2011 and Fantin himself between summer and winter. That’s not the case in Japan. was awarded Best Italian Chef in the World in 2014 by the Italian Everything wondrously changes in every season, be it ingredients, culinary guide, Identit¢ Golose. The restaurant’s first entry into packaging, colours, traditions, and rituals. the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2018 singularly placed it in a unique position, as it is the only restaurant out of 11 from Japan which is Is there a similarity between both culinary traditions that led by a non-Japanese chef. you are able to translate into the menu? Overseeing Bvlgari’s Il Café and Il Cioccolato in Osaka as well We share the same focus and appreciation of a particular ingredient as Il Ristorante – Luca Fantin at Bvlgari Resort Bali, Fantin is also in a dish. We let the texture and the flavour of the ingredient shine known for his collaborations in a series of Four Hands events with without the need for too much seasoning. While the foundation top toques, such as Massimo Bottura of Osteria Francescana, and, of Italian cuisine is based on olive oil and the Japanese is based recently in Bali with Yoshihiro Narisawa of Narisawa. The latter on , they are essentially similar. In Tokyo, what we do is to resulted in an impressive eight-course wine pairing dinner, which simplify the dish. There is no need to have too many different included Fantin’s signature cold spaghetti with caviar to Narisawa’s ingredients in a dish. roasted pineapple with dazzling Hibiki whisky and mango sorbet. “I spend a lot of my time in our headquarter kitchen in Ginza, What you are currently working on at Il Ristorante – Luca Fantin? experimenting with new ingredients and creating new menus with We have been experimenting with less popular meat and seafood my team,” says Fantin. In the same kitchen, he has also created a cuts which will be featured on our new menu. It boils down to map of Japan, identifying different ingredients from the north to how you cook the meat, something we discovered when we the south islands as a way to mark the best ingredients for each experimented with tuna collar or Wagyu shoulder cuts. Working on season. prime cuts is easier, but where is the challenge in that?

epicureasia.com 47 Vegetable Variation

Carpaccio a la Il Ristorante - Luca Fantin at Bvlgari Resort Bali

The interior of Il Ristorante - Luca Fantin at Bvlgari Ginza Tower during the day.

Cold Spaghetti and Squid Ink

Japanese and Italian cuisines have their own ardent fans who prefer the food to stay traditional. What is your take? Tradition is very important, but even tradition changes over time. We eat differently and approach life in different ways. There is always room for improvement. But it’s not like we want to innovate or change traditional cuisine into another form of cuisine, like molecular gastronomy, for instance. When I was a child in Treviso, my grandma would always cook tasty Italian dishes like gnocchi or lasagne but they were really heavy. Her gnocchi was full of eggs, flour and cheese. Now, as a professional, I realised that it’s not the way to prepare a dish. There is a different way to prepare gnocchi with the right amount of ingredients. So, when I create a degustation menu, I want my guest to leave in a good condition without feeling too full or bloated.

What’s next for Luca Fantin? Being a chef is different from other professions. Right now, I just want to keep the fire burning, so to speak, to continuously develop and become better every day. This is everyday work because there are constant changes with supplies, seasons, techniques, and you have to keep up to be on the top of the game. e

48 epicureasia.com

Cooking with Maille Dijon Mustard Spice up bánh mi, a classic Vietnamese , with a dollop of Maille 'ijon Mustard. Chef-owner of Átipico Matteo Pertoldi, shows how.

La Maison Maille has been satisfying consumers with its range Adding Mailleȇs 'ijon mustard in the traditional of premium mustards for over 270 years. Today, it continues Vietnamese Banhi Mi creates an added flavour dimension. to offer the finest ingredients and sauces to help chefs and This goes particularly well with Átipicoȇs trendy and daring homecooks in creating the best flavours for their loved ones philosophy. “The spicy and tangy flavours from the mustard and friends. add a refreshing taste to the rather meat-centric dish. I Matteo Pertoldi, chef-owner of Átipico, which offers chose to pair it with Wagyu steak as red meat goes really private chef services, says, Ȋ'uring my stay in France, I well with the Maille 'ijon Mustard,” he explains. discovered Maille 'ijon Mustard. A classic French condiment, Commonly, mustard is served with hot and cold meat it has a creamy texture, and smooth finish which helps to but the flavours truly shine when it is in the background. elevate the flavours of your dishes - especially those with -ust like a good chef, always always use the mustard with salad dressings as well as meat and fish sauces.” care. SPECIAL FEATURE

%$1+0Ζ 4 tbsp pickled shallots, Serves 2 a handful of coriander sprigs Prep time 30 minutes salt, to taste &RRNWLPH 20 minutes pepper, to taste

2 tsp Maille 'ijon Mustard ȏ Combine minced capers, 1 tsp minced gherkins gherkins, Maille 'ijon 1tsp minced capers Mustard and . 3 tbsp mayonnaise Set aside. 1 sourdough baguette ȏ Warm the baguette for 3 200g Wagyu steak minutes in an oven at 200°C. 2 heirloom tomatoes, sliced ȏ Season the Wagyu steak 4 tbsp pickled carrots, and sear for 5 minutes. julienned ȏ Assemble the sandwich 4 tbsp pickled , thinly according to the picture on Check out bit.ly/MailleMustard for chef Matteo’s creative Maille Mustard recipes video. sliced the previous page.

Maille maillecom &lassic )ine )oods instaJramcomclassifinefoodssJ PERSONAL CHEF ƒtiSico atiSicosJ SEEN AND SAVOURED

Smooth sailing Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection presented its latest S.S. series and 2019 cruise destinations over an exclusive dinner with 24 epicure guests.

he holidays are fast approaching and there's only one way to spend it, according to president and chief executive T officer of Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection, Ellen Bettridge. The exuberant lady introduced the group's latest S.S. series and luxury river cruises with the managing director of The Travel Corporation Asia, Nick Lim at an exclusive dinner organised by epicure. Held at one of Capella Singapore’s private rooms, culinary director David Senia held court over the kitchen with his immaculate French dishes, an ode to their many Uniworld cruises within the country. Hosted by Media Group managing director Dennis Pua and EDDIE TEO epicure senior publisher Cecilia Goh, guests included Dynaforce

International chairman Jimme Lee and chief executive officer PHOTOS

52 epicureasia.com epicureasia.com 53 Annie Sun, private investor and restaurant owner Sofi Sui, Leonica K Trichology owners Wee Hian King and Leonica Kei, trade commissioner of Mexico Gerson Garduno as well as Cortina Watch general manager Jeremy Lim. Also present were Uniworld’s director for Asia Henry Yu and his team members. Capella Singapore’s team served a succession of scrumptious canapes, pints of Bob’s Brew (a sugar cane pilsner commissioned from Young Master Ales) and Bosun’s Call (pineapple-infused Navegante Rum). The lighthearted mood continued at the dinner table with hefty pours of Certain Cellars’ Montecillo Reserva 2011 to go along with Senia’s delectable Beef Short Rib Confit. The Seared Barramundi with Salsa Verde was just as impressive when matched with the Montecillo Biano 2014. epicure managing editor Adeline Wong introduced Bettridge, who shared snippets of Uniworld's newly launched S.S. Beatrice that traverses across Europe’s Danube River as well as amusing encounters on-board. “It was a fantastic event that allowed us to showcase how Uniworld is the best luxury river cruise brand worldwide. Capella Singapore made for the perfect venue for a wonderful night connecting with new friends,” enthused Bettridge. e

54 epicureasia.com SPECIAL FEATURE

Oceanfront pampering Youȇll be hard pressed to choose from the menu of indulgent treatments at The Spa in Bvlgari Resort Bali.

Your well-being at Bvlgari Resort Bali begins at The Spa, a pampering haven housed inside a carefully restored antique wooden joglo house. With an array of holistic rituals and signature treatments to choose from, a personalised consultation is important to help you make a suitable choice, be it the Relaxing Body Massage or the results-driven Biologique Recherchéȇs facial. Make your way to one of the eight treatment rooms. Your senses are soothed and primed for the sound of trickling water from the enchanting ponds as the vibrant texture of green foliage reconnects you with nature. The tranquil ever-present deep blue horizon is a constant companion throughout your indulgent experience, even in the naturally inspired treatment room where leaving the doors open is necessary. As the breeze buoys you to sleep, you will feel the tension from your muscles dissipate. open-air Relaxation Area and enjoy the simple pleasure of Treat your significant other with the Bvlgari Royal Lulur for sipping a pot of ginger tea with the sounds of the ocean for Two. True to its name, the 180-minute treatment is inspired company. by the lavish rituals reserved for the royalty in Central -ava. The treatment is done at the Royal Spa Pavilion and includes a foot ritual, skin-exfoliating lulur scrub, body mask and BvlJari 5esort Bali cleansing facial. This is followed by a refreshing plunge into -l *oa /emSeK BanMar 'inas .anJin Uluwatu Bali 8036 your own private pool and a blissful synchronised four hands Tel 62 361 81000 body massage. Thereafter, spend some time at the dedicated wwwbulJariKotelscomenBU6bali SEEN AND SAVOURED

Strong contenders Sopexa’s Singapore Best Sommelier Competition in French Wines 2018 saw a winner crowned, but two others will be going into the Asia Final in South Korea.

t the fourth edition of Sopexa’s highly anticipated Best champion Daisuke Kawai, epicure wine editor June Lee, Sommelier Competition in French Wines, Yeo Xi Yang and other professionals. Master of ceremony Stephanie A (formerly with Straits Clan) calmly kept his composure Rigourd kept the proceedings moving between the six taxing amid strong competition to pick up the champion title. He was workshops, that included sparkling and red wine service, rewarded with a wine cellar from Vintec, among other prizes. cheese identification and pairing, spirits and cocktail, and Held on 2 October at the Four Seasons Hotel Singapore, the wine sensory analysis. Each participant displayed their competition saw four finalists compete in six workshops. They strengths, with Yeo adept at service while Lei aced the were Lei Dong from The American Club Singapore, who clinched sensory analysis. first runner-up; Daisuke Shibuya from Sun with Moon Japanese At press time, Yeo has bowed out of the Asia Final due to Dining & Café Singapore; and Irwin Tan from RVLT wine bar. personal reasons, leaving Lei and Shibuya to fly the Singapore The judges included president of the jury, the illustrious flag at the Asia Best Sommelier in French Wines Competition Jean-Pascal Paubert, alongside Annette Scarfe MW, last year’s which will take place 10 to 12 December in Seoul. e

56 epicureasia.com

WORK THESE ROOMS When it comes to wooing a client, the privacy and exceptional service of a private dining room is bar none. Jessica Chan and Victoria Lim discovers four exceptional spots that’ll make cinching your next deal a breeze.

Ritzy private members’ club, Straits Clan is the place to see and be seen right now. It is where the next-gen leaders The and creatives from various industries come together, be it for a workshop or casual networking session. Within the SECRET elusive space are a multitude of facilities to cater for such interactions, but none compare to the three private dining is OUT rooms you’ve probably never seen before. (So much so, there are no photos.) These rooms, catering to eight, 10 and 14 guests respectively, continue the same luxe yet modish take on Singapore’ seventies, thanks to local design firm Takenouchi Webb. The menu is said to follow that of the Dining Room; produce-driven cuisine, with an intermingling of eastern and western flavours. With group culinary director Daniel Sia, formerly of The Disgruntled Chef fame, at the helm, there’s little reason to doubt its quality. Minimum spend starts from $480 for lunch and $800 for dinner. 31 Bukit Pasoh Road. Tel: 6320 9180

58 epicureasia.com Fine Chinese restaurants are aplenty in Singapore but none offer an experience quite like Alan Yau’s (restaurateur BLACK behind Wagamama and Hakkasan) Madame Fan. is the NEW The swanky establishment has five private dining rooms that seat up to 10 comfortably, but we have our eye GOLD on the 12-seater VIP room. Dressed in seductive shades of black and gold, it’s a modish take on the storied Chinese palaces. Think black mirrored walls, a gold-coloured ceiling and sumptuous majestic yellow curtains. A live DJ can also be brought in to spin a mix of jazz and ambient tunes. Likewise, the menu offers Yau’s eclectic take on Chinese cuisine that is, as Yau puts it, “what goes on in a dinner party at Alan Yau’s home”. There’s a “pasta” dish of yin zhen fen with Calabrian Nduja, Dover Sole a la meunière and drunken mud crab with 20-year-old Yue Long Shan rice wine, to name a few. The Dim Sum selection includes the signature Mooli Puff from his Duck and Rice Restaurant in London. To ensure a seamless, impeccable service throughout, two servers are stationed in the room at all times. Minimum spend for private dining rooms are $1,2000 and $2,000 for the VIP room. The 1CO Club, 32 Beach Road. Tel: 6818 1921

epicureasia.com 59 The icon Kempinski Hotels sure knows how to make a statement. The highly-anticipated The Capitol Kempinski Hotel Singapore has brought the storied Capital Building’s elegant Victorian aesthetics into the 21st century, and is oozing luxe at every evolves corner. What’s more, news from the grapevine hint at a prolific chef consultant from a three Michelin-starred restaurant. (All will be revealed in December.) If that’s not enough to have you make a beeline for its signature restaurant, then the private dining room where you’ll be treated to an intimate chef’s table session with the newest chef in town will. The menu will pay homage to Singapore’s vibrant history through reinvented and elevated local favourites. Complementing the food are the lush interiors. Expect dark wood and marble to juxtapose with sleek, clean lines and floor-to-ceiling windows which are triple-glazed to minimise sound while still offering a stunning view of the bustling city street. There’s also a 60-inch television that blends seamlessly into the background (when unused) that’s going to be a hit for corporate events. Minimum spending for lunch is $1,500 and $2,500 for dinner. The Capitol Kempinski Hotel Singapore, 15 Stamford Road. Tel: 6368 8888

60 epicureasia.com We won’t deny the allure of the counter seats at ESORA. Diners can watch on as chef-owner Shigeru OUT of the Koizumi (formerly three Michelin-starred NihonRyori RyuGin as well as two Michelin-starred Odette) ORDINARY prepare his modern take on kappo cuisine in swift, delicate motions - it’s dinner with a show. The 12-seater private dining room, however, shifts the focus on the chef to the guests, allowing for more personal interaction. The yellow cedar wood furnishings, from the dining table to the sliding doors, dress the room in a soft, alluring glow to impart a sense of ease. In fact, it’s almost as if you’ve been invited over to Koizumi’s personal home. The invited are effortlessly fuelled by the likes of his buttery omi Wagyu tenderloin (from Okaki farm in Shiga Prefecture) that’s glazed with aged akazu (red vinegar) and sips of Sparkling Oriental Beauty, an effervescent floral tea blended by Koizumi himself. Minimum spend for lunch is $1,500, and $2,500 for dinner. 15 Mohamed Sultan Road. Tel: 6365 1266

epicureasia.com 61 MEET YOUR MATCH The invites are out and the table is set. What’s left is a wine pairing worthy of the lavish space and fare.

Sam Stephens, Penfolds brand ambassador at Treasury Wine Estates, recommends

Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz ($140) This is one of the legends from the Penfold luxury stable and is made from old Shiraz vines across South Australia. I like the fresh black fruit and plum notes, pepper and the long mineral finish. A perfect match for red meats.

Kate Rowe, brand ambassador at Treasury Wine Estates, recommends Wolf Blass Black Label ($158) This is Australian multi-regional blending at its best. The vineyard was catapulted onto the premium wine stage after winning the esteemed Jimmy Watson trophy three times in a row (1973-75), and, once more, Suzanna Ho, for its 1998 vintage. You’d be drawn into owner of House of Mu, the savoury aroma of roast coffee and the recommends liquorice leads into layers of dark plum, Nik Weis St Urbans-Hof Riesling ($65) blackberry and silky tannins. This is a refreshing start to a meal or meeting. A typical Mosel wine, the Beaulieu Vineyard Georges De Latour refreshing layers of minerals, grapefruit Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($288) and tangerine notes go swimmingly with Few wines can rival its quality and story. (It’s cheese and seafood-based dishes. been served at White House presidential state dinners for the past 60 years.) I was intrigued Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico ($78) by its complex layers of blackberry, cassis For days when I’m craving grilled meats, and floral aromas. A bittersweet, chocolate I’d go for the dark cherries, plums, slight finish invites one in for another sip. acidity and hint of savoury in this red.

62 epicureasia.com Johor Bahru dining epicure x OCBC Cards guide bring you the best of dining in Johor Bahru. Check out the first of this three-part guide, or download the whole issue at epicure.com/ocbcjb for great eats across the straits.

Stay and play It’s never been more comfortable to pick a fine hotel in Johor Bahru and extend your stay for more time to eat and shop. Don’t forget your OCBC Credit/Debit Card for great deals at these 10 picks around town.

7 GRAPES WINE . TAPAS . RESTAURANT 7 Grapes is a family-friendly place to relax over comfort food and accessible wines. Walk along the harbour and you’ll spot a colourful mural of grapes drawing you in to check out the racks of wine. Think chorizo and peppers flat bread, the famous crispy skin pork belly, and bacon-wrapped asparagus spears. End with classic churros or a refreshing or sorbet.

BACCHUSJ MAGNUM SPORTS CAFÉ OCBC CARDMEMBERS EXCLUSIVE: Named after the Roman god of wine, High-octane energy emanates from this 10% OFF TOTAL BILL BacchusJ is an all-day restaurant for prominently located sports cafe which LG-07, Lower Ground Floor Puteri Harbour, Italian-. Owner-chef serves up giant burgers, live sports on Persiaran Puteri Selatan, Puteri Harbour, 79000 Motokazu Yonezawa worked in Tokyo and indoor and outdoor screens, and good Johor Bahru Tel: +60 7 553 9294 Italy, and serves up delicioso dishes, such classic pool and darts games. A Subaru as uni spaghetti, homemade gnocchi, and hanging on the wall adds a talking point carpaccio from fresh flown mejimaguro as you tuck into steak or grilled salmon, Visit Puteri from Tsukiji Market. Pair these with Italian or chill out with a wide range of draft Harbour for Barolos and Premier Cru Burgundy. or bottled beers overlooking the marina sunset. It’s family-friendly as well, with family-friendly enough variety to keep the kids happy. themed

OCBC CARDMEMBERS EXCLUSIVE: OCBC CARDMEMBERS EXCLUSIVE: attractions and 10% OFF TOTAL BILL 10% OFF TOTAL BILL modern dining LG-18, Lower Ground Floor Puteri Harbour, LG 09 Lower Ground Floor Puteri Harbour, Persiaran Puteri Selatan, Puteri Harbour, 79000 Persiaran Puteri Selatar 79000, Iskandar Puteri, concepts Johor Bahru Tel: +60 7 509 6722 Johor Bahru Tel: +60 7 509 6669 Hotel Jen Puteri Harbour is ideal for a ‘Jeneration’ of independent travellers, whether business or leisure. Persiaran Puteri Selatan, Puteri Harbour, Iskandar Puteri, 79000 Johor Bahru. Tel: +60 7 560 8888 SKYBAR, BAR & RESTAURANT Looking for a more elegant and romantic dining experience? Walk over to the infinity pool in the evenings where SkyBar offers relaxing views of Puteri Harbour and the setting sun. Whet your appetite over steak and seafood, a cocktail or two, and fine wines to toast the night away.

OCBC CARDMEMBERS EXCLUSIVE: 15% OFF TOTAL BILL (EXCLUDING ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES) Block 3, Level 4, Hotel Jen, Puteri Harbour

HARBOUR CAFÉ This modern and welcoming all-day restaurant tempts with a wide range of east-meets-west cuisines. Yearly themes include a seafood churrasco dinner buffet where the flavours of Latin America blaze on the grill, while local Asian favourites are never far behind. The luk luk station is where you’ll find seafood, meat and vegetables on skewers for a “Jenuine” taste of Malaysian flavours.

OCBC CARDMEMBERS EXCLUSIVE: 15% OFF TOTAL BILL (EXCLUDING ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES) Block 1, Level 1, Hotel Jen, Puteri Harbour

With the OCBC 365 Credit SHAKES & BURGERS Card, receive 6% cashback The multicultural list of burgers that’s available here will have for both local and overseas you drooling. The highlight is the otak-otak burger, though you dining, everyday. might also be tempted by a double crispy chicken or satay chop. Finish with a satisfying chendol, gula melaka, or even sirap bandung strawberry shake – totally unforgettable. Spend at bars, pubs, hotels and country clubs will not qualify for the 6% dining cashback. Cashback capped at S$80 per month with a minimum monthly spend of S$800. Terms and conditions apply. For details on dining cashback, please OCBC CARDMEMBERS EXCLUSIVE: refer to ocbc.com.sg/365card 15% OFF TOTAL BILL (EXCLUDING ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES) Block 1, Level 2, Hotel Jen, Puteri Harbour Stay at DoubleTree by Hilton Johor Bahru, a contemporary hotel in the heart of the CBD 1o. 12 Jalan 1gee Heng 80000 Johor Bahru. Tel: +60 7 268 6868

CAUSEWAY BAY HONG KONG CAFÉ It’s hard to choose from over 200 food items (starting from RM4) at this bustling KSL mainstay which opened in 2010. Glance at the other tables, which will likely be topped with generous cheese-baked dishes such as the mixed grill cheese curry TOSCA ITALIAN TRATTORIA rice, HK waxed meat rice, char siew The city’s premier Italian restaurant is a multi- fried hor fun, dim sum, and pretty faceted gem on the 13th floor, whether you’re much all the must-eats you love booking a business luncheon or gathering for THE FOOD STORE from Hong Kong. You won’t run out of options from the freshly baked wood-fired pizzas with the family. extensive food and drinks menu at this OCBC CARDMEMBERS Don’t miss the excellent mushroom soup with a handy cafe and gourmet takeaway counter! EXCLUSIVE: medley of fungi, or the Australian Black Angus Grain 10% OFF TOTAL BILL Whether you’re craving for a baguette or Fed beef options from the grill. A contemporary LG 39 & 40 KSL City Mall Jalan Seladang, quiche, with a cup of English breakfast tea Taman Abad, 80250 Johor Bahru tiramisu completes the experience, along with a or teh tarik, the friendly staff will ensure Tel: +60 7 333 7666 good variety of wines. you won’t leave hungry. And from young to old, everyone loves a tin of the iconic OCBC CARDMEMBERS EXCLUSIVE: DoubleTree Chocolate Chip Cookie. 10% OFF TOTAL BILL 13th floor, DoubleTree by Hilton Johor Bahru OCBC CARDMEMBERS EXCLUSIVE: 10% OFF TOTAL BILL Ground floor, DoubleTree by Hilton Johor Bahru Play at KSL Mall, MAKAN KITCHEN Makan Kitchen serves up Malaysia on a plate, a one-stop whether you’re in the mood for Malay, Chinese, popular Indian or Peranakan dishes, along with Western, seafood and dessert favourites. Look out for shopping bumper weekend eats such as the afternoon high and dining tea and seafood specials for dinner. Aside from the seemingly endless buffet stations, the à la carte destination menu offers Johor and fish and chips.

OCBC CARDMEMBERS EXCLUSIVE: 10% OFF TOTAL BILL Ground floor, DoubleTree by Hilton Johor Bahru VINE EXPECTATIONS Pushing Chile forward Winemaker Marcelo Papa from Concha y Toro launches new label Etiqueta Negra and looks to Chile’s wine future with optimism. By June Lee

he first vintage of Etiqueta teenager to wines from around the world. It was enough to inspire Negra was birthed in early Papa to study agricultural engineering, then winemaking, at the T April 2016, a wet, cool year Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile from 1986 to 1991. that saw a slight dip in harvest yields. At first, things didn’t look well for Papa. Chile was in an economic With El Niño playing havoc with crisis in the early 1980s, and wine consumption was down. Not many the weather that year, winemakers students took up agronomy or enology, as the job market was so like Marcelo Papa had a tricky task slim. Then the opposite happened – Chile began exporting its wines deciding when to pick these grapes in earnest, and by the time Papa graduated, his cohort was in high in Puento Alto, south of Santiago. Too demand as there weren’t enough new graduates to join the field. early and the grapes lose the chance to reach physiological ripeness. Working under legendary mentors like Rafael Guilisasti and Too late and heavy rains could ruin the crop. Ignacio Recabarren when he joined Concha y Toro in 1998, Papa Papa is the man in charge of two heavyweight Concha y Toro was privy to the exciting phase that Chilean wines was undergoing. brands, Casillero del Diablo since 1998, and Marques de Casa Concha Plantings of Chardonnay in Casablanca and then in Limari for since 1999. A lot has changed in 20 years, and part of it has been instance became iconic. “We’re not a mature industry,” he muses, getting the wines' alcohol levels down by picking earlier, and also compared to the Old World, “but we’re clearer now than 20 years ago changing the style from the brash, opulent wines favoured in the on where to grow grape varieties.” 1990s to a more elegant style befitting the terroir it comes from. Papa, 51, doesn’t seem particularly pushy, but underneath his cheerful, Champion for appellation open demeanour is a steely conviction that bodes well for the wine The name of Etiqueta Negra, the latest labelling from Marques de industry in a country that’s the fourth most significant wine exporter Casa Concha, translates to black tie, denoting its premium status. in the world. But what it really espouses is right on the label, where its location of Puento Alto takes pride of place over its varietals – a first for Marques A lucky break de Casa Concha. Papa’s four grandparents were from Italy, while his parents were “It’s like Barolo or Bordeaux,” notes Papa, where consumers prize born in Chile. Though no one in the family made wine, a bottle of the appellation (Barolo) before the varietal (Nebbiolo). As Chile doesn’t red was usually on the dinner table, where it might sometimes be have an appellation system, there are no official tiers of quality based mixed with a kind of soda. His interest was further piqued when on terroir. However, more wineries are starting to make a distinction the family visited an uncle in Miami, who introduced the then of place on their labels, especially in areas where the grape and the

66 epicureasia.com terroir are well established. In the case of Puento Alto, Chile’s top bottlings of Almaviva and Don Melchor are also located here, and do include the vineyard on the label. The Etiqueta Negra blend is also unusual, with a high percentage of 32% Cabernet Franc in its first vintage. Papa credits this to the quality of the bright, silky Cabernet Franc, and having more freedom to experiment due to the label’s smaller production. In fact, he’s looking to push the percentage even higher in future, if vintage conditions permit.

Proud papa Papa added the title of technical director to his portfolio in 2017, giving him an overview of the wines, grapes, barrels and more that concern the quality of the wine. “We have a beautiful opportunity to export Chile to the world, and put more value in what we do.” There are other grape varieties to explore, such as those from Italy – which he’s partial to, given his roots – like Pinot Grigio and Fiano, or Spanish Garnacha. Having settled in the Maipo Valley himself, together with his food writer and artist wife Gloria and teenage son Gianluca, Papa – like all good fathers – has a long-term view of the industry, and how to get there.

MARQUES DE CASA MARQUES DE CASA MARQUES DE CASA CONCHA CONCHA CARMENERE 2015 CONCHA CHARDONNAY ETIQUETA NEGRA 2016 Grapes: 90% Carmenere, 10% 2016 Grapes: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Sauvignon Grapes: 100% Chardonnay 32% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Taste: Though the amount of Taste: From the Limari Valley Verdot Cabernet Sauvignon varies comes this Chardonnay Taste: For such a powerful each year, this hallmark with characteristic ocean Bordeaux style red blend, Etiqueta bottling of the Peumo estate in influences. It opens ripe Negra comes across as ready to the Cachapoal Valley delivers and lush, with a core of drink now. Dark, graphite-like red classic ripe plums and dark minerality that informs the fruit of blackberry and blackcurrant chocolate notes from the notes of hazelnut, pear and envelop the firm tannin structure pre-phylloxera vines. Fragrant figs. Ready to drink now and oak influence, resulting in a and fresh, without losing its with shellfish and roast silky impression. Etiqueta Negra is power and finish. $49 from white meats. $49 from available from CUT by Wolfgang by 1855thebottleshop.com 1855thebottleshop.com the glass ($31).

epicureasia.com 67 RAISING THE BAR

Gin haven We are cheering for homegrown gin distillery Brass Lion, which has opened a beautifully designed standalone warehouse and distillery space in the west. Managing director and head distiller Jamie Koh took years to perfect the Singapore Dry Gin ($88/500ml) that’s audacious in its torch ginger flower, pomelo peel and lemongrass flavour notes. The herbs and spices, including specially sourced Macedonian juniper berries, come together in a 150-litre German hybrid pot still, christened Nala. More flavours are in the works. Swing by for a cocktail (from $15), tour ($40) or workshop where you can customise your own gin for $160. 40 Alexandra Terrace. Tel: 6954 0602

68 epicureasia.com Bartender update SEEING RED Din Hassan Cellar master Christophe Valtaud from Where: Telok Ayer Arts Club, House of Martell is crafting a new 2 McCallum Street. Tel: 6221 0712 course for millennial drinkers with What: Taking over SPRMKT, the new Martell VSOP Aged in Red Barrels. Telok Ayer Arts Club weaves art, music, food and drink without pretension. Hassan leads the bar programme with all-day low ABV drinks (from $10), and a more complex South East Asian menu (from $20) at night. From the reinvented classics, White Lady impresses with its incorporation of curry leaves, while a Bloody Maria uses chilli crab sauce to balance thyme-infused Jose Cuervo and the sweetness of cherry tomato.

Kamil Foltan Where: The Indigenous Bartender Headquarters (IB HQ), 774A 1orth Bridge Road. Tel: 9025 3234 What: Together with wife Zurina Bryant, Foltan’s new venture is part research lab and part cosy bar, opened five nights a week. The cocktails (from $22) are pure delight, with meticulously researched I’m a scientist. I joined Martell in 2011, ingredients used judiciously with no extraneous flourishes or wasteful garnishes. became the vineyard manager in 2015 and Osmanthus Gimlet with London Dry Gin has just the right balance, while gentle succeeded outgoing cellar master Benoît Fil Perrier melds together blended whisky and hibiscus falernum in the in 2016. Bunga Raya. One of my first tasks was to create a new sophisticated blend to replace the VSOP Medallion. It took one year to create the taste and one year to change the bottle. Younger consumers – like me – prefer a smoother taste with less woody notes and more fruit. That’s why we aged the eaux- de-vie in older red barrels that are used for three to eight years first, which are less bitter in tannins and more intense in vanilla. Dario Knox While new technology makes it easier Where: The Other Roof, 28 Ann Siang Road. to do our job, our nose is still the most What: The restless Knox is never short of creativity, and this sister outlet of important instrument. You have to protect The Other Room is a tea-infused concept that takes cocktails to the next bespoke level. The 150-seater rooftop bar serves up light, tasty fare and cocktails that the nose and palate to be able to taste, and derive from bespoke leaves and blends, such as the honeytella, used to finish rum the rest is training and experience. or whiskey. Of special mention is the Nordes Gin finished with 50 Shades of Earl The modern VSOP suits food pairing and black tea ($18/glass). The Bloody Mare ($22) is not to be missed, using Gin Mare and mixology. Enjoy it any way you like, in matcha based salts to elevate the savoury tomato base. cocktails like a spritz or matched to Asian food.

epicureasia.com 69 CELLAR CHOICE

AO YUN 2014 Yunnan’s most prestigious wine Power dining is the world’s new coveted claret. With limited availability, it’s even more enigmatic. Ao Yun’s classically calls for a wine styled Bordeaux blend, along with its cool climate, high altitude terroir characteristics, will have you that impresses, marvelling at its savoury, dense styling. 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc bring layers every time. of cinnamon, dried Chinese red dates and persimmons, as noted by Jeannie Cho Lee MW. Chewy, firm tannins and fine minerality keep it Ornellaia 2015 racy. $360 from Vinum Fine Wines Nicknamed Il Carisma, the 2015 edition of Ornellaia is one of crafted harmony. This Bolgheri DOC Superiore stalwart varies a DANCING HARES 2015 This small but significant winery little in its composition each year depending in St. Helena has produced the on the vintage conditions, and this year top-notch Dancing Hares brand since 2003. It’s business as usual comprises 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% after it was acquired by Tuck and Boo Beckstoffer of the famed Merlot, 17 Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot. Napa Valley winegrowing family in Its exuberance makes it approachable even 2016, with winemaking now under Philippe Melka and consultant in youth, with fresh ripe raspberry, plum and Michel Rolland. Comprising Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc balsamic flavours, powerful tannins and a and Petit Verdot, this deep-hued velvety body. Savour in as early as five years Bordeaux-style blend recalls wild herbs, spice cake and cocoa notes, in through to the 2030s. $330.50 from a full-bodied, fine-grained package. $295 from winehours.com Culina Dempsey

PIPER-HEIDSIECK CUVÉE 2015 VINTAGE IN BOLGHER ESSENTIEL ATLAS Such is the clout of Atlas that it J is the first in the world to work After an unusual 2014 with Piper-Heidseick on the with rainy summer, 2015 Essentiel industry programme. brought an extra warm Ex-Atlas sommelier Mason Ng summer that was particularly and current head sommelier dry and scorching. Lucas Liu met with ex-chef de cave Séverine Frerson to J The absence of rains led to taste and select the final blend. some water stress, but some This first run of 2,500 bottles well-timed rains arrived in holds crisp but not overly August. aggressive notes of Meyer lemon, fresh red apple, white J Overall it was a good jasmine, crushed almond and vintage for reds like Cabernet the savoury accents of porcini Sauvignon, with deep colour mushroom. $25 by glass, $150 and phenolic maturation. per bottle (dine in) at Atlas

Whisky Live 2018 alert New features at this year’s edition (3 to 4 November) include a total of 14 masterclasses, where you can taste extremely rare such as Karuizawa 1978 and Port Ellen 22 Year Old, or attend the Bruichladdich Black Art launch. The format of the tastings at the main room also sees a limit of 10 whisky coupons (at 10ml each) per ticket, unlike the free pour at previous years. Experienced punters, however, will still be able to enjoy the VIP room with unlimited rare pours. Tickets from $119. Andaz Singapore, 5 Fraser Street. whiskylive.sg

70 epicureasia.com TIPPLE TIPS

Number three on the World’s 50 Best Bars list, Manhattan is our pick for power cocktails. Head bartender Cedric Mendoza creates a floral and spiced version inspired by Singapore.

A Manhattan in Singapore One of the first classic cocktails was the Manhattan, born in New York in the 1880s. Comparing the affluence of Manhattan to Orchard Road, Mendoza created a version of this iconic cocktail that brings out floral and spice notes Orchard as befits our tropical 45ml Michter’s Rye city. It’s a spirit-forward 15ml La Quintinye concoction that exudes Crazy Rich Asians, but Rouge vermouth ›Stir with a bar spoon with superb elegance 10ml elderflower until you get a slight and restraint. Ideal for liqueur dilution and drink toasting the festive season with. 2 dashes Peychaud’s is chilled through. Bitters Mendoza uses a 40-revolution stir ›Chill a mixing glass as a gauge, but it’s thoroughly by filling important also to up with ice. Stir. Pour watch the change of out ice and place colour as you stir. all ingredients into ›Strain into a it with a fresh large stemmed cocktail

EDDIE TEO block of good quality glass, and garnish ice. with a lemon peel. PHOTOS PHOTOS

epicureasia.com 71 72 epicureasia.com ENTERTAINING & TRAVEL

Anteroom, Sanchaya

» Relax and refuel at Bintan Island » Recipes for the ultimate host » An Englishman’s guide to Northamptonshire

epicureasia.com 73 Wine Pairing: SAINT EMILION CHATEAU LA FLEUR DU BOIS 2014. The savouriness of the demi-glace brings out the . Plus, the tannins in this wine work well with texture of the beef, adding a robust and full-bodied mouthfeel.

Concept ADELINE WONG Art direction and styling YONG WOEI NA Photos CHING Videography by TU JIE RUI Text VICTORIA LIM Recipes by HELIO GONÇALVES OF IGGY’S Shot at IGGY’S

Intaglio dinner plate from Wedgwood. Hiraita rectangle plate and Vide Poche 180 from Atomi. The Return OF POWER DINING

Business entertaining at home requires impeccable execution. Here are six dishes to add to your recipe collection.

DEMI-GLACE KAGOSHIMA WAGYU A5 2.5kg beef kneecap bones 2.5kg beef trotters Autumn calls for vegetables like Jerusalem artichoke and 2.5kg beef bones chanterelle mushrooms. The earthy root flavour of the latter is 2.5kg beef marrow bones elevated with the intensely flavoured A5 Kagoshima wagyu. 500g carrots 500g onions 500g leeks 25g of peeled garlic 1 bottle of red wine

Serves 1 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE PUREE » Roast all bones in the oven at 200°C for Prep time 50 minutes + 16 hours 15g green olive, remove pits 45 minutes. simmering 100g Jerusalem artichoke, peeled and » Combine carrots, onions, leeks and garlic Cook time 40 minutes diced in a large pot. Sauté until soft. Add bones and cover with water. In a separate pot, A5 KAGOSHIMA STRIP » Blend all ingredients together in a reduce wine down to half. Add to the stock 150g A5 Kagoshima beef Vitamix or food processor. pot, bring to a boil and simmer for 16 » Pass the mixture through a fine tamis hours. » Sear beef on the plancha until golden after blending. » Strain stock with a fine chinoise and cool brown. it immediately. Set aside until ready to use. » Place beef in a vacuum bag and seal CHANTERELLES completely. 40g chanterelles, peeled and cut into ASSEMBLY » Sous vide the beef at 65°C for 30 quarters » Lightly sear beef again on the plancha to minutes. 10g clarified butter heat it up. » Remove beef in vacuum bag from water » Portion chaterelles, 60g of beef and 18g bath. Place in ice bath to halt cooking. » Sauté mushrooms with clarified butter of artichoke purée on the plate. Set aside. for 10 minutes. » Smear demi-glace on plate. CHLOROPHYLL CARNAROLI RICE Inspired by the gardens from Portugal, this creamy rice dish has a vibrant green hue due to the use of spinach. It is then enhanced with pandan aioli and seasonal vegetables, including wing beans tossed with sambal sauce.

Serves 1 2 pieces of shallots 1 star anise Prep time 30 minutes + overnight 1 clove of garlic ½ clove garlic soaking 20ml vegetable oil 200g vinegar Cook time 50 minutes 10g belacan (shrimp paste) 10g sugar 5g gula Melaka () 1g bitter gourd, julienned PANDAN AIOLI 5g winged bean, sliced 1 pandan leaf, chopped » In a Vitamix, blend hydrated chilli with 5g carrots 50ml corn oil vinegar and 30ml of water. Drain out water 5g broccoli 1 egg yolk from the chilli mix. 5g white turnips 1 clove of garlic, chopped » Stir in 10ml of water into the assam juice. 30ml tomato redux (or tomato paste) salt to taste » Slice shallots and garlic thinly and pound 2g light soy sauce it in a mortar using a pestle. 1g black truffle, chopped » Blend chopped pandan leaf with corn » Sauté shallots and garlic in a pan at low salt to taste oil in a food processor for 3 minutes. heat. Once soft, add vegetable oil and chilli edible flowers » Strain the pandan-infused oil. paste, and cook for another 10 minutes at micro herbs » In a Thermomix, combine egg yolk and low heat until the paste turns bright red. garlic. Slowly add pandan-infused oil to Add belacan, assam juice and gula Melaka » Cook carnaroli rice according to emulsify for a minute. Add salt to taste. to reduce. instructions on packaging. » Pass mixture through a fine tamis and » Cut mustard greens into smaller pieces store in a piping bag. Set aside. VEGETABLE STOCK and blanch for 1 minute. Pickle coriander 50g chickpeas seeds, star anise and garlic in a mixture of SPINACH BUTTER 2 litres water vinegar and sugar. 65g raw spinach ½ stalk leek, chopped » Blanch bitter gourd for 10 seconds. 100g unsalted butter, frozen 1kg celery, chopped » Sauté winged bean in sambal belacan. 1 carrot, chopped » Sauté carrots, broccoli and white turnip » Remove stem of spinach. Blanch 50g daikon, chopped on the frying pan, add 2 ladles of vegetable spinach leaves in hot water for 5 seconds, 1 whole onion, chopped stock and tomato redux. followed by ice water for 30 seconds. » Continue on high heat, add 2 tablespoons » Strain the water from spinach and then » Soak chickpeas overnight in a bowl with of and light soy sauce. freeze the spinach. 2 litres water. » When the rice mixture is fried until dry, » Combine frozen spinach and frozen » In a pot, boil all all vegetables and add spinach butter and black truffle. butter and blend. simmer for an hour. » Add salt to taste before setting aside to » After blending, keep frozen until use. » Strain vegetable stock with a strainer and let rice rest for 5 minutes. keep in chiller until ready to use. » Meanwhile, assemble bitter gourd and SAMBAL sambal wing bean on a small tray and flash 20g hydrated dried chilli ASSEMBLY heat it in the oven at 180°C. 1 tbsp vinegar 50g carnaroli rice » Quenelle rice onto the plate, plate 40ml water 10g mustard greens, cubed vegetables put three dots of pandan aioli. 20ml assam juice 2g coriander seeds Garnish with flowers and micro herbs. Wine Pairing: RIESLING DONNHOFF TROCKEN 2015 The aromatic off dry white wine with fruity notes pairs perfectly with the light flavour of the rice dish.

Hiraita rectangle plate and Oda tri plate, both from Atomi. Jardin D’eden tablespoon from Christofle. Renaissance Gold sugar box from Wedgwood. Wine Pairing: PINOT NOIR FROM AUSTRALIA OR OREGON. The fruity notes of this Pinot Noir goes well with the apricot purée. It has a simple wine profile which showcases the pork’s natural flavours brilliantly.

Malmaison dinner plate, Guilloche Platine underplate and Aria dinner fork and knife, all from Christofle. White tray from Strange & Deranged. Ouur Multi round trays from Actus Hause. IBERICO FORE LOIN WITH GRILLED PURPLE ENDIVE AND APRICOT PURÉE A well-loved Iberico pork dish from the South of Portugal. The acidity from the apricot plays a role in cutting through the fattiness of the pork. Here, the purple endive is used as a salad, as traditionally in Portugal, pork is eaten with a salad.

Serves 1 VEGETABLE STOCK PORK JUS Prep time 50 minutes + 2 hours brining + 500g chickpeas 1.2kg pork bones 6 hours sous vide + overnight soaking + 4 2 litres water 1 carrot, chopped hours simmering 1kg celery, chopped 1 leek, chopped Cook time 40 minutes 6 leeks, chopped 1 onion, chopped 6 carrots, chopped 8 litres water PORK FORE LOIN 500g daikon, chopped 2 bay leaves 150g salt 6 onions, chopped 1 litre water » Preheat oven at 220°C, roast the pork 200g Iberico pork fore loin » Soak chickpeas overnight in a bowl filled bones till brown. 1g black peppercorn with 2 litres of water. » Meanwhile, sauté carrots, leek and onions 1 clove of garlic » In a pot, add everything together and at medium heat in a pot until soft. 1g coriander seeds bring to boil. Simmer for 4 hours. » Add water, bay leaves and pork bones, 1g juniper berries » Strain and set aside until ready to use. and bring it to a boil. » Once it boils, turn down the heat and » Dissolve the salt in the water and APRICOT PURÉE slowly reduce for 6 hours brine the pork for 2 hours to season and 300g fresh apricot » After boiling, strain the jus and store it in enhance its texture. 500g vegetable stock a container at room temperature. » Drain off the brine and place pork in a salt to taste » Leave jus overnight. Remove the layer of large vacuum bag with peppercorn, garlic, fat. Reduce remaining on soft boil in a pot coriander seeds and juniper berries. » Blanch apricot for 30 seconda and for another 4 hours until thick. » Seal completely and pasteurise for 10 remove the skin. » Strain and cool to room temperature. minutes at 83°C steam. » Combine apricot and vegetable stock into » Prepare a water bath at 66°C, sous vide a Vitamix and blend. ASSEMBLY the pork for 6 hours. » Add salt to taste. » Portion 100g of pork and slowly sear it on » Remove pork from water bath. Place it in » Pass purée through a fine tamis and cool frying pan at low heat with a parchment an ice bath to halt cooking and leave it at to room temperature. Set aside until ready paper underneath. room temperature. Remove and extract all to use. » Sear for 10 minutes until brown and bones gently from the pork. crispy. » Then seal it again in vacuum bag. Set » Grill a piece of purple endive and plate aside. with pork fore loin, apricot purée and pork jus. CARABINERO RICE The premium red shrimp from the south of Portugal is paired with a classic cream- based risotto. This marriage of Portuguese ingredient with Italian cooking lends an exciting spin to this modern dish.

Serves 1 CARABINERO PRAWN 25g light soy sauce Prep time 30 minutes 1 Carabinero prawn salt to taste Cook time 20 minutes 20ml olive oil » In a Thermomix combine egg yolks and LOBSTER STOCK » Remove prawn shell. garlic. 2kg lobster heads » Grill prawn in olive oil. » Slow drip corn oil into the mixture to 1 leek emulsify. 1 carrot CARABINERO BUTTER » Once emulsification is done, add squid 1 celery 230g Carabinero shells ink and light soy sauce. 1 onion 200g lobster heads » Add salt to taste. 2 whole garlic 500g unsalted butter 2 bay leaves ASSEMBLY 5 litres water » Defrost and clean lobster heads, remove 5g carrots, diced sac near the mouth. 5g daikon, diced » Remove innards from lobster heads and » Oil up lobster heads and Carabinero 10g light soy sauce discard. shells on the tray and roast it in the oven sea salt » Roast heads till brown at 220°C. at 200°C until it is well roasted (bright red » Roughly chop up leek, carrot and and slightly brown). » Sauté carrot and daikon on the pan on celery. » In a large pot melt the butter. high heat and add 2 ladles of lobster stock. » Add everything together in a large pot » Once butter melts, add roasted lobster » Once the stock boils, add 2 tablespoons and simmer in water for 2 hours. heads and Carabinero shells over medium of bomba rice into the pan, » Strain and refrigerate. heat for 2 hours. » Continue on high heat, and add light soy » Once the butter turns bright orange, sauce. BOMBA RICE strain it and store it chilled. » Once dry, add 15g of Carabinero butter 200g lobster stock and toss well to form emulsion. 30g bomba rice SQUID INK AIOLI » Set aside for 10 minutes. 4 egg yolks » Place a rectangular mould on the plate » Boil lobster stock and add bomba rice. 1 clove of garlic, minced and scoop 2 tablespoons of rice into the » Cook for 4 minutes. 210ml corn oil mould and lay grilled Carabinero on top. 1 tbsp squid ink » Finish off with sea salt at the side. Wine Pairing: RIESLING ANDLOUS 2015 A rich and sweet riesling that brings out the flavours of the Carabinero.

Hiraita rectangle plate and Tin plate from Atomi. White coffee saucer taste from Strange & Deranged. Wine Pairing: OREMUS TOKAJI DRY MANDOLAS 2011 FURMINT A dry and richly flavoured wine to pair with an indulgent dish.

Jardin D’eden dinner fork from Christofle. White tray from Strange & Deranged. Ouur Multi round trays from Actus Hause. SALTED COD “BRÁS” WITH WHITE TRUFFLE Salted cod is a traditional dish in Lisbon which features scrambled eggs with shreds of salted cod, onions and thinly cut fried potatoes. The dish has been elevated, thanks to one of autumn’s most prized ingredients, white truffles. The result: a richer flavour from the -ish kabayaki sauce and white truffles.

Serves 1 SCRAMBLED EGG YOLK AND COD Prep time 1 hour 1 potato, julienned Cook time 20 minutes ½ onion, chopped 20g garlic, diced SOUS-VIDE ATLANTIC COD 1 bay leaf 150g cod 10ml olive oil 1 bay leaf 50g cod tripe 1 clove of garlic kabayaki sauce (from Meidi-Ya) 10ml olive oil 40g egg yolks

» Place cod in a small vacuum bag with all » Deep-fry potatoes in vegetable oil at ingredients. 165°C till golden. Set aside. » Seal completely and cook sous vide at » Sauté onions, garlic and bay leaf in olive 65°C for 10 minutes. oil on a frying pan until caramelised and golden brown. KABAYAKI SAUCE » Turn to low heat, add cod tripe and 200g seabass bones continue to sauté at low heat for another 100g light soy sauce 1 minute . 60g » Then, add potato, kabayaki sauce and 60g egg yolk to create a golden brown thick 60g sugar scramble.

» Place bones on a tray and roast in an ASSEMBLY oven preheated to 180°C for 30 minutes. Alba white truffles » Add bones and remaining ingredients in a pot to simmer for 2 hours. » Plate the scrambled egg yolk below the » Strain and refrigerate. Set aside sauce sous-vide Atlantic Cod loin and shave the until it’s ready to be used. Alba white truffle on the top. Wine Pairing: ROSE CHAMPAGNE LOUIS ROEDERER The rose champagne provides a balance of flavours with its dryness – cleanses the palate.

STRAWBERRY TEXTURE The sweet strawberries are enhanced by the addition of an earthy yet sweet beetroot gel and sponge. Paired with the freshness of the shiso-infused ice cream and fragrant sakura meringue, it’s a match made in heaven.

Madison 6 dinner plate and underplate from Christofle. White leaf plate from Atomi. Serves 1 125g water then transfer it into a syphon. Charge it Prep time 1 hour + overnight charge 85g sakura 3 times and leave it overnight. Cook time 20 minutes 100g maltodextrin » Next day, charge it 1 more time and release 30g into a microwave-safe cup. BEETROOT GEL » Combine albumin powder, water and » Microwave cup for 40 seconds. Let it cool 220ml beetroot juice sakura syrup in kitchen mixer and whisk to room temperature to set. 18g honey for 5 minutes at medium speed until firm. 22g sugar » Then slowly add in maltodextrin. COMPRESSED STRAWBERRY 2g gellan gum » Transfer to a squeeze bottle and 100g water pipe meringue onto a tray lined with 100g sugar » In a pot, boil all the ingredients until it is parchment paper. 200g fresh strawberries fully dissolved. » Dry meringue in the oven at 90°C for 30 » Pour beetroot into an insert with an ice minutes set to conventional. » Place water and sugar in a pot, bath underneath, use a stick blender to » Remove from oven and store in a dissolve and make a syrup. Cool it down process beetroot till it sets and is smooth. dehydrator until ready to use. immediately. » Pass through a fine drum sieve. » Prepare strawberry, cut it into quarters, » Store in refrigerator. STRAWBERRY SHISO ICE CREAM place it in a small vacuum bag with syrup - 1kg strawberry purée just enough to cover the strawberries and CONCENTRATED STRAWBERRY 10g shiso leaves, chopped seal it in a vacuum machine for 30 seconds. 900g strawberries, chopped 3.8g salt » Remove strawberries and store at room 1 litre water 3g sorbet stabiliser temperature till ready to use. 200g sugar 0.5g red food colouring 10g shiso YOGHURT-LIME FOAM » Combine all ingredients together in a 100g milk » In a pot, combine all ingredients and heat pot and bring to a boil to dissolve sorbet 50g icing sugar up till it reaches 78°C. stabiliser. 250g Greek yoghurt » Maintain the heat for 20 minutes. Remove » Strain the mixture in a chinois to 2 limes, zest and juiced from heat and cover the pot with cling remove the leaves. 25g pro-espuma powder (available from film. Let it sit for an hour. » Store in a container and freeze until amazon.com) » Strain mixture through a strainer and ready to use. chill it until stiff. » Whisk everything together and pour into BEETROOT SPONGE the syphon bottle. STRAWBERRY GEL 50g almond flour » Charge 3 times and chill till ready to use. 220g concentrated strawberry 120g egg white 2g gellan gum 80g egg yolk ASSEMBLY 100g beetroot, cooked » Put spoonful of beetroot gel onto the » In a pot, combine ingredients and bring 30g beet reduction center of the plate, divide 1 beetroot to a boil. 65g plain flour sponge into 3, and place it around the » Pour strawberry into an insert with 50g sugar beetroot gel. an ice bath. Then proceed to use a stick a pinch of salt. » Place 3 pieces of compressed blender until the mixture is smooth. strawberry diagonally to one another, » Pass mixture through a fine drum sieve » Take beetroot, sprinkle with sea salt and pipe 3 dots of strawberry gel next to the into a metal container. cover with aluminum foil. Bake beetroot compressed strawberry. » Knock metal container on a table until in the oven at 200°C for 1 hour. » Place 3 sakura meringues diagonally air bubble dissipates. » Once cooked, remove skin and process to one another. the meat in a food processor. Using a » Quenelle ice cream and place it at SAKURA MERINGUE juicer, juice beetroot and reduce to 30g. the center, on top of the sponge. 12.5g albumin power » Mix all ingredients together in a bowl, Finish off with some edible flowers. MASTERCLASS

Mastering… char-grilled octopus and ocean beef ribeye tartare Executive chef Ryohei Kenyoshi of WAKANUI shows Victoria Lim how his travels to Spain have influenced his recipes.

nspired by his base, accentuated with good quality olive oil, garlic and fresh sojourns in Spain, herbs. This seafood rendition sees similar profiles: the spicy Ichef Ryohei tomato chilli salsa, potato leek purée and fresh coriander leaves. Kenyoshi’s Char-grilled “It’s the perfect appetiser too because the heat from the salsa Octopus features tomato increases the appetite and the coriander softens the tough chilli salsa and coriander texture of the octopus,” says Kenyoshi. Together with the purple leaves. These ingredients potato, this is a colourful and vibrant dish that encapsulates are commonly found Kenyoshi’s memories of the lively country. in traditional Spanish The WAKANUI Ocean Beef Ribeye Tartare is Kenyoshi’s dishes. “This recipe is milder version of a . He takes WAKANUI’s signature a nod to my love for steak and gives it a new twist. Grass-fed Angus cows are first Spain. In 2015, I took grain-fed for four months. The meat is impressively tender and three months off and juicy. “I want to show a different way of enjoying our popular ate my way through the steak. Tartare (using ribeye) is easier on the palate.” The dijon country. It was there mustard adds another layer of tartness and texture to the that I discovered flavours tartare. This helps to keep the classic French dish interesting. that were bold, exciting and wild. When I came back home, I “The beauty of creating a tartare is the ability to play around made it my mission to learn and incorporate the flavours into with different flavours. I like my food to be a little spicy, so I my recipes,” shares the executive chef of WAKANUI Grill Dining added Si Chuan pepper powder for a fiery kick. I like my beef EDDIE TEO Singapore. tartare to be a little creamier, hence the mayonnaise on top of

Most Spanish dishes call for a piquant tomato sauce as the the egg yolk,” says Kenyoshi. PHOTOS

86 epicureasia.com 2.1 2.2 2.4

2.5 2.6 4.2

CHAR-GRILLED OCTOPUS 10g coriander leaves 20g jalapeño, finely chopped Serves 1 1 bay leaf 100ml extra virgin olive oil Prep time 30 minutes 600ml water a pinch of salt Cook time 1 hour 30 minutes 2.1 Place octopus in a bowl and scrub the 3.1 Blanch the tomatoes by boiling for 20 Japanese mayonnaise tentacle with salt to remove the slimy texture. seconds before transferring them to ice water 1 egg yolk Rinse off with water. to cool. Remove from water and peel the skin. 100ml extra virgin olive oil 2.2 Add all the ingredients into a pressure 3.2 Remove seeds from the tomatoes and dice 5g Japanese mustard cooker and turn the heat to high with the lid them into small pieces. 70g Jerez vinegar half open. 3.3 Mix all ingredients in a bowl and add a a pinch of salt 2.3 Once the pressure cooker starts to make pinch of salt. a sound, turn the heat low and let sit for 12 1.1 In a medium bowl, add the egg yolk and minutes. potato leek purée blend with a hand blender. Continue to blend 2.4 When the octopus is soft and tender, 20g Australian leeks and slowly add extra virgin olive oil into the remove from the pressure cooker and let cool. 10g onions mix in a steady stream until the mixture is fully 2.5 Slice the octopus to three (40g each) and 10ml corn oil emulsified. char grill (preferably over binchotan) for 2 to 5 40g potatoes 1.2 Mix Japanese mustard, Jerez vinegar and minutes each side. a pinch of salt to the egg mixture. Set aside. 2.6 After grilling, cut the pieces in half. 4.1 Pre-heat the oven to 160°C 4.2 Cut the leeks and onions into thin slices octopus tentacle tomato chilli salsa and sauté with corn oil on low heat for 30 1 octopus tentacle 100g tomatoes minutes. 10ml white wine 30g shallots, finely chopped 4.3 Peel and cut the potatoes into 3cm cubes

epicureasia.com 87 5.4

Check out epicure on YouTube for a behind-the-scenes video of this masterclass. before adding to the pan. Cover the pan and 5g coriander cress garnish with the tomato chili salsa that was sauté on low heat for 5 minutes. a pinch of smoked paprika powder set aside. 4.4 Transfer potatoes, leeks and onions to a 5.4 Dust smoked paprika powder over the tray and bake for 40 minutes. 5.1 Transfer the potato leek purée into a piping octopus, and decorate with slices of calamansi. 4.5 Remove from the oven and hand blend all bag and pipe an ‘S’ shape onto a plate. 5.5 Transfer the Japanese mayonnaise into a ingredients in a bowl for a fine texture. 5.2 Set a teaspoon of tomato chili salsa to piping bag and decorate the plate with dollops the side. Scoop the remaining salsa into three of mayonnaise. Sprinkle coriander cress over assembly sections onto the plate. the octopus and serve. 4 slices of calamansi 5.3 Place sliced octopus across the plate and

88 epicureasia.com WAKANUI OCEAN BEEF 1.4 Mix all ingredients in a bowl. RIBEYE TARTARE 1.5 Place a stainless-steel ring mould onto a Serves 1 plate and transfer the tartare into the mould. Prep time 40 minutes Remove the mould.

10g shallots “I want assembly 5g capers to show a 5 thin slices of baguette 5g anchovies 6 slices of red radish, thinly sliced 10g cucumber pickles different way 1g pistachio 10g Italian parsley of enjoying 30g Kewpie mayonnaise 80g ocean beef ribeye 9g sudachi vinegar (available from MEIDI-YA) 1 egg yolk our popular Si Chuan pepper powder (according to 5g dijon mustard steak. Tartare preference) 1g pepper 2g salt (using ribeye) 2.1 Thinly slice the baguette and lightly toast is easier on the it. 1.1 Finely dice the shallots, capers, anchovies, 2.2 Lightly roast pistachio nuts in a pan on cucumber pickles and parsley. palate.” low heat and crush them into crumbs. 1.2 Trim the fat off of the ribeye. 2.3 In a bowl, mix the mayonnaise, vinegar 1.3 Slice the meat into strips and dice into and Si Chuan pepper powder. Transfer to a 3mm pieces. piping bag and decorate onto the plate. 2.4 Plate the dish according to the picture.

1.2 1.3 1.4

1.5 2.3 2.4

epicureasia.com 89 COOKBOOK CRITIC To cook like a Venetian A Table in Venice is author Skye McAlpine’s love letter to the Floating City. Victoria Lim gets inspired in the kitchen.

At a glance There’s nothing family and friends. To save quite like more time, I marinated the the image of meatballs the night before wonderous which allows all the flavours architectural from the herbs and spices buildings in Venice like cumin and basil to bathed in light to settle into the minced beef. inspired you to It turns out to be the right visit what some move. The meatballs are have called the tiny flavour bombs, which most beautiful city go well with the gnocchi. in the world. Lucky Bonus: if you are feeling for Skye McAlpine lazy, you can half-cook the who moved to the Veneto capital when she was meatballs and pop them six and spent most of her life in the beautiful city. into the freezer and save It was through her time dabbling in her friend’s them for rainy days. Just kitchen, helping to roll gnocchi that the London- remember not to keep them born food writer discovered the beauty of Venetian for more than two weeks. home cooked food. Next up: the Zabaione The gorgeous looking book begins with an and Meringue Semifreddo. extremely detailed and helpful shopping guide on Even though the recipe how to set up a proper pantry to support Venetian cooking. Alpine calls for a hand held mixer, I couldn’t wait to use my new majestic arranges her recipes in sections like breakfast, vegetable (check yellow KitchenAid mixer for the making of the meringue. I was out the Ricotta and Mint-stuffed Zucchini Flowers), lunch, apéritif rewarded with a lovely meringue within a matter of minutes. The time (don’t miss the Deep-Fried Risotto and Mozzarella Balls), fish light and not-too-cloyingly sweet flavour from the Marsala paired and game (the Langoustine and Fig Salad is terrific), and of course, well with the meringue and this dish was a hit with the health- desserts and sweet treats. conscious parents.

The road test Verdict I had immense fun recreating three of the recipes for my rice- The recipes are easy to follow, especially when paired with the

loving family (the pressure is high). I went for the familiar beautiful pictures of the dishes. Experimenting with most of them PUBLISHING BLOOMSBURY Homemade Gnocchi with Butter and Sage. The steps to perfect is a joy. And unlike other cookbooks where you tend to flip ahead the gnocchi are straightforward, but it’s best to read through the directly to the recipes pages, A Table in Venice offers easy to read, PUBLISHER recipe in detail for a couple of times before starting. It took me interesting history and anecdotes on the dish. So you’re likely to two failed attempts to achieve the correct water to flour ratio spend as much time actually reading about , as for the gnocchi. And don’t get too carried away when kneading you are testing these Italian plates at home. e the dough – if you overwork it, your gnocchi will be too tough to SKYE MCAPLINE MCAPLINE SKYE chew. A Table in Venice: Recipes from my home retails for £26 (S$47.08)

The Spiced Meatballs is one that will go down well with your on bloomsbury.com PHOTOS

90 epicureasia.com HOMEMADE GNOCCHI WITH BUTTER AND SAGE Serves 6

1kg baking potatoes 250–350g ‘00’ flour 2 large eggs ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 teaspoon salt plenty of grated Parmesan, to serve for the sauce 110g salted butter 4 tablespoons olive oil 15 sprigs of sage

›?\Xkk_\fm\ekf))'—:&>XjDXib.%Gi`Zbk_\ potatoes several times with a fork and bake for 1½ hours or until tender. (Alternatively, microwave the potatoes on full power for 5–7 minutes, until soft.) Set on one side until just cool enough to handle.

›Gfli),'^f]k_\ÔflifekfXZc\Xenfib surface and make a well in the centre. Halve the potatoes, scoop out the flesh and pass it through a sieve or ricer on to the heap of flour. Use your hands to create a little hollow in the potato. Crack the eggs into the hollow, add the nutmeg and salt, then mix everything together with your hands to give a smooth, soft dough. If it is too wet, add the rest of the flour little by little until you have a soft dough that will easily hold its shape. Just bring the dough together; if you overwork it, the gnocchi will be tough.

›;`m`[\k_\[fl^_`ekf/Å('\hlXcZ_lebj%Lj\ the palms of your hands to roll them into balls, and then into long ropes roughly 2.5cm thick. Cut them into 3cm lengths. It is important that the gnocchi are all evenly sized, if not shaped, so they cook evenly.

›C`e\XYXb`e^kiXpn`k_Xj_\\kf]YXb`e^ parchment, dust it lightly with flour and lay out the gnocchi on it. Press down on each one with the back of a fork to create little indentations, then turn them over and repeat the process on the other side.

epicureasia.com 91 SPICED MEATBALLS Serves 4

600g minced beef 100g fresh breadcrumbs 1 onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, 1 finely chopped, the other peeled but left whole 2 sprigs of rosemary, chopped ¼ teaspoon ground cumin ¼ teaspoon ground coriander 1 large egg 4 tablespoons olive oil 750g tomato passata ¼ teaspoon dried chilli flakes a small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, chopped a small bunch of basil, chopped sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

›Glkk_\d`eZ\[Y\\]#Yi\X[ZildYj#fe`fe# chopped garlic, rosemary, cumin, coriander, egg and a generous pinch of salt and pepper in a large bowl and mix well. Use your hands to roll the mixture into small balls roughly the size of a walnut; you should have about 32.

›?\XkXkXYc\jgffef]k_\f`c`eX]ip`e^gXe# add the whole garlic clove and leave over a medium heat for about 3 minutes, until it begins to brown. Add the tomato passata, dried chilli flakes and a little salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to low and leave to simmer away while you brown the meatballs.

›?\Xkk_\i\dX`e`e^fc`m\f`c`eXefk_\icXi^\ frying pan. Working in batches, cook the meatballs over a high heat, turning them now and again (I find it easiest to do this using 2 spoons), until they are browned all over. Try not to overcrowd the pan. Transfer the cooked meatballs to the pan of tomato sauce and cook for 5–10 minutes, so they soak up the delicious flavours. Generously heap the parsley and basil over the meatballs and serve from the pan, still steaming hot.

92 epicureasia.com ZABAIONE AND MERINGUE SEMIFREDDO Serves 10-12

½ lemon 6 large egg whites 300g caster sugar for the zabaione 6 large egg yolks 100g caster sugar 70ml Marsala 300ml whipping cream

›DXb\k_\d\i`e^l\cXp\ijÓijk%?\Xkk_\fm\e to 140°C/Gas Mark 1. Line 3 large baking trays with baking parchment and draw a 24cm circle on each piece of paper. Turn the paper over so you can still see the lines and use them as guides.

›IlYXcXi^\Yfnc[fnen`k_k_\c\dfe_Xc] to cut through any grease. Put the egg whites into the bowl and, using a handheld electric mixer, beat on a low–medium speed until the whites begin to froth. Increase the speed to high and add the sugar a tablespoon at a time until the whites become glossy and form stiff peaks. Spoon the meringue on to the baking parchment and spread it out evenly within the circles.

›9Xb\]fi(_fli('d`elk\j#k_\ejn`kZ_f]]k_\ oven and leave the meringues in there, without opening the door, for an hour longer, until the water isn’t touching the base of the bowl. Keep ›@eXj\gXiXk\Yfnc#Y\Xkk_\n_`gg`e^Zi\Xd oven has cooled. Take the meringues out of the whisking until the mixture is thick enough for a until it forms soft peaks. Gently fold it into the oven and leave them to cool on the trays. trail to stay on the surface when drizzled from cooled zabaione. To assemble the semifreddo, the whisk. Slowly pour in the Marsala, whisking place one of the meringue layers on a serving ›EfndXb\k_\qXYX`fe\Zi\XdÓcc`e^%Glkk_\ all the while. This should take 3–5 minutes, and plate, and spread half the zabaione cream over egg yolks and sugar into a heatproof bowl and as you add the liquid the zabaione will double it. Top with a second layer of meringue, then the whisk with a handheld electric mixer for 2–3 in size and thicken. Remove the bowl from rest of the zabaione cream, and finish with the minutes, until light and fluffy. As the mixture the heat and let the zabaione cool to room final layer of meringue. Freeze for 3–4 hours, begins to froth up, set the bowl over a pan temperature, whisking occasionally to prevent a or longer if you like, until set. Slice like a cake of gently simmering water, making sure the skin forming. to serve.

epicureasia.com 93 CHEF’S TRAVELOGUE Rediscovering the flavours of Chengdu There’s more to Sichuan cuisine than mala hot pot. Head chef Eugene See showcases the depth of this second-tier city and what it has to offer. Eugene See and his team of chefs

Red Spicy Noodles here’s much more to Sichuan food flavours than mouth- crimson, bubbling numbing spiciness. Chengdu, the capital of China’s froth of peppers and T Sichuan province and one of UNESCO’s Creative Cities for oil. After the pot Gastronomy, offers a cuisine that balances the elements of salty, starts bubbling, you sweet, sour, spicy, and ma – the latter is a numbing sensation from select several small ingredients like Sichuan peppers. These peppers not only add heat dishes from about to Sichuan dishes but are used for a practical reason as well. Due to 100 ingredients, such Chengdu’s humid climate, consuming these chillies helps the body as cow stomach, duck release toxins that are trapped by the damp air while also cooling intestines, chicken you down. liver, bacon strips, While the cuisine’s presence has proliferated to other parts of beef chunks, potato China (even McDonald’s has its now-infamous take on a Sichuan slices, tofu skin, frogs, sauce), I believe that there’s nothing like going straight to the prawns, bamboo authentic source to fully understand how these peppers and other shoots, courgette and spices should be used. fresh river eel. Pop your choices into the Sichuan cuisine 101 pot, and while the The food in Chengdu cannot be pigeonholed, but there are some ingredients cook in common dishes that everyone knows and loves. There are dozens of the cauldron prepare other dishes that one can order, but I think these are a good start. the sauces. You can Two popular cold dishes are diced cucumber covered in chillies and fill your bowl with any combination of minced garlic, coriander, minced garlic, and cold glutinous strips drenched in minced garlic sesame oil, salt and pepper, soy sauce or vinegar. Fish the food out, and chilli. Some common stir-fried dishes include pork with green pop them into your bowl and slurp them down with a beer or a peppers, beef with pickled peppers, spicy chicken with red chillies, glass of soy milk, whichever helps to tame your tongue best. The fish-flavoured pork and veggies as well as crispy, sweet duck. best hotspot in town is Ma Wang Zi Restaurant at No.1 East Kangshi Sichuan hotpot deserves special mention. A typical hotpot starts Street. with a vat of oil cooked with chilli, Sichuan peppercorn (also known Next on the list is barbecue. During evenings, you will find as the infamous “mouth-numbing spice”), star anise, and cinnamon an army of barbecue stands appearing on many corners of the sticks. The “white”, non-spicy version is filled with mushrooms, city, serving up skewers of meat and veggies until early dawn. The green onions and some Chinese herbs. The “red” spicy portion is a typical choices are sliced lotus root or potato, chicken, pork, and

epicureasia.com 95 Rabbit’s head from a roadside stall

“I was pleasantly surprised when a close friend of mine told me that Chengdu has a strong vegetarian community, as I had assumed that the cuisine is meat-heavy.”

Street food galore Local are the pride of the people in Chengdu. Wenshufang block sells a variety of snacks and authentic Sichuan . Local and international TV stations often come here to document the scene. You don’t need to walk, because the snack bar is standing along the block one by one. Longchaoshou, Lai’s rice dumplings, Zhong’s dumplings and bean jelly are available here. Wenshufang is a famous western-Sichuan folk commercial block in Chengdu, in addition to traditional antique shops Guoba and potato beef , small fish, tofu, and arts and crafts shops, the food is another highlight. No.15 quail’s eggs, and cauliflower. Wenshuyuan Street, Qingyang District, Chengdu. You take the Metro Most vendors spice these line No.1 and get off at Wenshuyuan Station. If you take the bus, you foods with chilli peppers, can get off at the North Street or Wenshuyuan. MSG and salt, so remember Yangxixian is the most representative food street in to say this before ordering: Chengdu. Here you can find Sichuan food as well as delicacies from “Bu yao wei jing”, which different regions and at different price points. It also promotes the means “no MSG please”. My growth of the neighbouring Hotpot Street of Funan New District. favourite barbecue stand is There are a lot of cuisines here, from Sichuan restaurants like Chengdu Chao Yang at Chao Hongxing, Daronghe, Sunset restaurants to Cantonese restaurants Yang Lu Hao, Xiang Bin Wu like Ginkgo, Shengtaosha, Chaohuangge and so on. Foreign cuisines Tong. have also taken root here, including Japanese-style barbecue, I was pleasantly Korean barbecue and Brazil roasted meat. surprised when a close friend of mine told me that Chengdu has a strong vegetarian community, as I had assumed that the cuisine is Fine dining in Chengdu meat-heavy. Fun food fact: Sichuan meat dishes can be altered to This bustling city is also home to a multitude of fine dining suit vegetarians. For example, chicken can be substitued for tofu in restaurants. Case in point, award-winning chef André Chiang’s the classic dish, kung pao chicken. There are also more vegetarian contemporary Sichuan restaurant, THE BRIDGE. restaurants around town that serve Sichuan classics with mock Other noteworthy spots include Hong Xing Jiu Dan, which meat, such as the Spicy Red Noodles from Cha Shufang Cha Zha Mian is a stone’s throw away from Chengdu University of Information Zong Dian (Cha Shufang Main Noodle Shop). Notable restaurants Technology. It’s a must-visit restaurant on every local’s list. With include Vegetarian Lifestyle and Lotus on the Water. Most local only 18 seats, it is best to make a reservation before heading down. temples also house vegetarian restaurants. A personalised menu showcasing the finest ingredients and cooking

96 epicureasia.com techniques Chengdu has to offer. Chef Lan Guijun, known for his minimalist approach to Sichuan food, offers a 25-course dinner which includes spiced loach served with roast sweet potato, needle-fine duck yolk noodles suspended in delicate Chinese cabbage broth, and sea cucumber in a sour, spicy Sichuan broth. Every dish is beautifully presented in custom-made china. Yu’s Family Kitchen is helping to raise Chengdu’s profile in the fine dining world. Run by chef Yu Bo, who is well-known among Chinese foodies, the restaurant’s degustation menu offers more than 30 courses combining complex Chinese flavours and influences from molecular gastronomy. Highlights of the menu include rice jelly Pork trotters sprinkled with fiery chilli powder with chilli and abalone, pigeon breast meat floss, thinly sliced smoked duck, and a “paintbrush” made of beef-filled pastry and dipped into tomato “ink”. e

Singapore-born Eugene See grew up in Malaysia and studied at Le Malaysia. He is now the head chef at Birds of a Feather, a Sichuan-influenced modern European restaurant on Amoy Street. Housed in a two-storey shophouse on Amoy Street, the restaurant features an eclectic mix of lush plants, wooden furniture and eye- catching fittings like pillowy cloud lamps, plus an expansive bar that serves classic and innovative cocktails. His restaurant marries the rich flavours of Sichuan cuisine with the technical finesse from the French kitchen.

epicureasia.com 97 FREQUENT FLYER

Althorpe Estate

China Tang Shoes maketh the (English)man Bespoke shoemaker Tony Gaziano might be jetting off across Asia and America, but he fully embraces his English roots. He shares with Jessica Chan the hidden gems of his storied home.

e’s made shoes international authority on made-to-order leather shoes. “Shoes for Ralph Lauren grew on me,” he chuckled “I knew I wanted to be in fashion or Hand Ermenegildo luxury, but it was only after 18 months on the job (at the factory) Zegna Couture and dressed did I realise how much I enjoyed it.” Subsequently, Gaziano worked Puri Ganesha xxx the feet of celebrities at English shoemakers Edward Green and Cleverly. The latter is like Henry Cavill and Léa where he met business partner (and the other half of Gaziano & Seydoux. Tony Gaziano, Girling), Dean Girling. He later roped Girling into Edward Green. co-founder of Gaziano & He’d made the last and leather, while Girling would complete the Girling, is one of Savile stitching of each shoe. Six years on, Gaziano & Girling was born in Row’s finest bespoke storied Northamptonshire, England. From there, he’d make regular shoemakers. trips to Savile Row where their flagship store is; their New York I met with the showroom; and wherever their many trunk shows take him. debonair 45-year-old at Kevin Seah Bespoke’s What makes Gaziano & Girling stand out from other bespoke atelier – where his ready- shoemakers and luxury brands? to-wear and made-to- It boils down to Dean and my deep understanding of quality, order selections are from the expertise of last making to the leather used. You’d get available – during one of his coveted trunk shows. While nursing a product that’s almost ornamental, as if it is something you can his whisky, the Englishman shares how he, an architecture school admire. We fly down to big cities of Asia – in fact, our initial clients drop-out, made a serendipitous decision to join the design were Japanese and Americans – just for fittings. We bring the department of a shoe factory and, eventually, rose to become an British bespoke shoe-making experience to our clients’ doorsteps.

98 epicureasia.com Grand Hyatt Tokyo people in one room, having drinks and trying on shoes. When the excitement settles (and hunger comes knocking), we would pop down to The Oak Door for a steak dinner. I still think it’s one of the best meats I’ve ever had; and the best service one could ever ask for.

You have a flagship store along Savile Row. Why base yourself in Northamptonshire? I am always telling anyone who visits to get out of London and go to the countryside. One of my favourite spots is this I am guiding clients on this journey to nondescript restaurant called Thai Garden near where I stay in find that perfect pair, especially for those Kettering. It’s the most random place. You have these two guys who are new to bespoke shoes. When from Hong Kong cooking Thai, Malaysian and Cantonese food in they move from high street and designer one kitchen that serves a maximum of 20 people. Even our friends labels and onto a new level of luxury (that from Japan and other Asian cities have sang its praises. For a more I provide), their world opens up to shoes elaborate affair, there’s The Oak Room Restaurant within The in 100 different shades, styles and shapes. George Hotel of Stamford. It’s this 15th century coaching inn that’s For example, what type of shoes for what been transformed into a private hotel. I always feel like I’m back occasion, what colours 400 years in time when I’m here. They have this showpiece of a go with which fabric they would serve straight from a silver domed wagon – and so on. Now, they an absolute classic. are like kids in a candy And Northamptonshire is teeming with history. There are shop. many castles but the most significant is the Althorp Estate, which was once home to Diana, Princess of Wales. It was founded by Share with us a trunk the Spencer family of politicians and admirals, who has stayed show tradition. there since 1508. The sprawling estate is home to cottages, farms We used to hold trunk and woodlands that play host to a variety of events, including the shows cum parties at Althorp Food & Drink Festival. Grand Hyatt Tokyo. There’d be 40 to 50 What are your favourite haunts along Savile Row? I love Asian food so China Tang at The Dorchester with its authentic Cantonese DESTINATION HITS fare (including dim sum) comes to mind immediately. Sartoria is my go-to Italian J J J Althorp Estate Grand Hyatt Tokyo Thai Garden Restaurant. It has just been renovated so Northampton NN7 4HQ, U.K. 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-Ku, 3 Market Hill, Rothwell, Tel: +44 1604 770107 Tokyo, Japan, 106-0032 Kettering NN14 6EP, U.K. it has an amazing ambience to go with the Tel: +81 3 4333 1234 Tel: +44 1536 712345 equally fantastic food by chef Francesco J China Tang 53 Park Lane, Mayfair, J Sartoria J The George Hotel Mazzei. You get dishes from his hometown London W1K 1QA, U.K. 20 Savile Row, Mayfair, of Stamford of Calabria and surrounding areas. It being Tel: +44 20 7629 9988 London W1S 3PR, U.K. 71 St Martin’s, Stamford. just 100 yards away from my shop is even Tel: +44 20 7534 7000 Lincolnshire PE9 2LB, U.K. Tel: +44 1780 750750 better. e

epicureasia.com 99 TRAVEL FEATURE

Herethe suncomes Go beyond the sun-kissed shores of Bintan Island and discover its wild side in one jam-packed weekend. By Jessica Chan

t’s not hard to see why Singaporeans are flocking drop of the hat; a variety of water sports, a much-needed spa over to Bintan Island on the weekends. Just an day or the delectable Indonesian spread. That, however, barely hour away by boat, it makes for a fuss-free beach covers what this tropical paradise has to offer. Here, we explore holiday. The resorts that have mushroomed along its coastline the oft-overlooked side of Bintan Island, from the quaint fishing are one-stop destinations, be it for a girls’ trip, newlyweds or an villages and local haunts to the hotpots that will have nature annual family get together. There’s everything you’d need at the buffs weak in the knees. Best of all, three days is all you’ll need.

Mangrove tour access to their thrilling Slip & Slide. Make your way to Lamak Basamo (Jl. Gurindam Duabelas, Teluk Sebong Lagoi. Tel: +62 811 779 597) for a hearty dinner, served in the traditional Hidang-style. Numerous plates, ranging from the crunchy paru (beef lung) and kari ikan (fish in coconut curry) to tempeh stir-fried in homemade sambal, are laid on the table for your choosing. (Payment is dependent on the plates you choose.) A teh susu (tea with condensed milk) is the beverage of choice here.

Fill up on the buffet breakfast before a morning of diving (license required) with Max’s Dive Centre (1irwana Gardens, Sebong Lagoi, Teluk Catch an early ferry to Bandar grilled mantis shrimps and their signature Sebong. Tel: +62 812 7742 9844). The PADI Bentan Telani Ferry Terminal black pepper crabs. Settle into a table Discover Local Diving (price upon request, and spend a day at Treasure by the lake and you may spot a curious includes lunch and dive insurance) offers Bay Bintan (Kawasan Pariwisata, Jl. Raja kingfisher hiding among the gnarled boat dives at two of four locations. Popular Haji KM 01, Teluk Sebong, Lagoi. mangrove branches. choices are the Senggiling Reef, for its Tel: +62 770 692259). Opt for a seafood Continue with Treasure Bay Bintan’s vibrant corals and nudibranchs, and lunch set within lush mangrove forests Maximum Adventure Package ($100, with Tanjung Berakit, during April and June, at Kampoeng Kelong Seafood Restaurant entrance ticket). It includes four activities, for schools of brightly-coloured Beaked (Jl. Langsat - Sungai Kecil, Lagoi, Bintan starting with a Mangrove Kayaking Tour. Coralfish and Blue-ringed Angelfish. Regency. Tel: +62 812 7000 206), which Paddle along the coast and enter the Don your boots for a trek through the marries Chinese and Indonesian flavours mangroves as you’re guided through the evergreen rainforest of Gunung Bintan with the island’s daily catch for sumptuous region’s myriad wildlife. There’re also off- Besar with BRC Tours (IDR 550,000/S$50/ plates of steamed gong gong (conch), road trails for UTV and ATV and unlimited adult and IDR 350,000/child)

100 epicureasia.com ’ A checklistnature buff s

Silvery lutung Stork-billed Kingfisher Hawksbill sea turtle Giant clam Adult silvered leaf monkeys Watching a stork-billed Known for their colourful Spot a coral reef and, chances have dark grey fur that shines kingfisher take flight is a sight carapace and bird-like beak, the are, a family of giant clams a shimmery silver in daylight, to behold. Keep your eyes and critically endangered species is nearby. Resplendent in the while the young (below three ears peeled for its cackling call, inhabit the tropical regions of sunlight’s refraction, it makes months) sport bright orange bright red beak and its vibrant the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian for a stunning underwater coats. They travel in groups plumage of green, blue and Oceans. The bustling coral reefs portrait. It is also known to and can be found munching on yellow. around Bintan, of which they propagate and maintain coral leaves and fruits within tree feed on, attract them to nest reefs. brunches. HOTSPOT upon its beaches twice a year. Mangrove forests Newborn turtles are released HOTSPOT HOTSPOT between May and June by Mapur Island, Nikoi Island and Gunung Bintan Besar conservation teams. Sandy Bay

HOTSPOT Turtle hatcheries at Nirwana Gardens, Angsana Bintan and Clud Med Bintan Island

epicureasia.com 101 Panglong Village

yourPlan trip

X Getting there From Singapore, there’s Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal (15 minutes by car from Changi Airport). Board the regular ferry service to arrive at Bandar Bentan Telani (BBT) Ferry Terminal in 60 minutes. (Tel: +62 812 760 3733). Traverse through made handicrafts. The wet market is where Larger groups can arrange for ancient, overarching trees, some of which you can stock up on kroepoek (deep fried a private charter with Bintan are 40 metres tall, for a glimpse of the crackers), exotic fruits like the Java Plum as Resort Ferries. Those coming from elusive silvery lutung or sun bird. The well as bottles of handmade sambal. Keep Indonesia can opt for domestic peak, at 340 metres above sea level, offers a lookout for street cards peddling , a flights to Raja Haji Fisabilillah a panoramic view of the Island. Keep an Sudanese snack of fermented cassava in teak Airport or ferries from Batam to eye out for the famed Princess Pool during leaves for breakfast. either Bintan Resorts or Tanjung your descent. A dip in the cool waters is Head to Solo Asli BT.9 (Jl. DI Pinang. For private yachts (up to said to impart good luck. Panjaitan KM.9 1o.11, Batu IX, Tanjung 25 metres in length), there are With your appetite heightened, Pinang. Tel: +62 812 2700 0222) for pangsit marina pontoons at BBT Ferry tuck into Italian fare at the beachfront bakso (noodles with meatballs) (IDR20,00) Terminal. restaurant, Casa Italia (Malang Rapat, and ayam panggang (grilled chicken) Gunung Kijang. Tel: +62 812-2832-8711). The (IDR16,000). The latter is grilled upon order X Getting around the charismatic owner, an Italian native, can and comes slathered in a thick, sweet sauce island often be seen shuffling thin-crust pizzas out that goes swimmingly with the array of There are shuttle buses of his wood-fired stone oven. The dishes, sambal. Another highlight is the es jeruk (iced transporting visitors between BBT which are tweaked for the local palate, calamansi juice), particularly perfect during Ferry Terminal and resorts, Plaza includes jagung (corn) and sarden (sardine). the hotter months. The portions are small, Lagoi or Pujasera. For a more which brings you to the next stop, Ayam tailored itinerary, we recommend Start early at Tanjung Pinang Presto (Tlk., Bintan Buyu, Tlk. Bintan. taxis or car rentals. Traditional Market and Tel: +62 813 6431 4336) for their signature Wet Markets (Air Raja, East ($2). X The right season Tanjungpinang, Tanjung Pinang City.). It’s a Visit the largest community of Orang The tropical climate makes it a treasure trove from its produce to locally Laut (sea gypsies) at Panglong Village great holiday destination all- (Berakit, Teluk Sebong). The rustic charm is year round. Beach-goers will matched by the time-honoured traditions of particularly enjoy the dry season its villagers. Made up of a collection of kelong between March and October. For (an offshore hut built with wood), they can a fruitful dive, plan trips between often be seen weaving fishing nets, repairing November and April. their boats and preserving fresh catch by sun drying. X Further info On the drive back to the ferry terminal, Bintan Resorts presents a make a pitstop at Tee Off Restaurant. comprehensive guide on its Order the and gado-gado with a website, social media accounts Tanjung Pinang sprawling view of rolling green hills. e and by phone.

102 epicureasia.com Stay At

The Sanchaya The beachfront estate features an unparalleled view of the South China Sea. Groups of six adults can opt for the Leelawadee, a private compound with three one-bedroom villas and a 17-metre swimming pool with a view of the estate gardens and lagoon. Room rates from IDR7,600,000. Jalan Gurindam Duabelas, Plot 5, Lagoi Bay, Sebong Lagoi, Tlk. Sebong, Kabupaten Bintan, Kepulauan Riau 29155, Indonesia. Tel: +62 770 692200

Indra Maya Pool Villas Overlooking the north-western coast of Bintan are the villas at Indra Maya Pool Villas. They come in two-, three- The Canopi and four-bedroom configurations, making it an ideal For a world-class glamping experience, there’s The Canopi. Each tent suite (from getaway spot for groups. Personalised Villa Host Service Rp1,400,000) comes fitted with a muslin-draped four-poster bed, BBQ pit, an is available. Room rates from IDR5,075,000. Jalan outdoor jacuzzi and bathroom. It is also within walking distance to Chill Cove Panglima Pantar, Lagoi, Sebong Lagoi, Tlk. Sebong, @ Treasure Bay Bintan. Treasure Bay Bintan, Jln Raya Haji, Lagoi, Riau, 29152, Kabupaten Bintan, Kepulauan Riau 29155, Indonesia. Indonesia. Tel: +62 770 692 252 Tel: +62 770 692505

epicureasia.com 103

SPECIAL FEATURE

Bintan’s treasures A mere 60-minute ferry ride away from Singapore, Chill Cove @ Treasure Bay Bintan is home to South East Asiaȇs largest man-made seawater lagoon and is the place to be for adventure buffs.

One glance at Chill Cove # Treasure Bay Bintanȇs Crystal Lagoon and you will be impressed by the sheer scale (the size of 50 Olympic pools) and beauty of this man-made sky-blue lagoon. Enveloped by white sandy beaches, guests can expect an exciting array of water activities like Stand-up Paddling, Kayaking, Water =OVB, -etovator, and a Sports Waterpark. Head straight to the Cable Ski where a friendly instructor will guide you on how to conquer the flow (tip: relax your body, look straight and always remember to squat). Or try the Cable Tube and feel the rush of wind against your body. Thereȇs also plenty of activities you can try on land at Chill Cove. If youȇve never ridden a Segway or a Electric Scooter, this is your chance to do so in a guided environment. -ump on an ATV (all-terrain vehicle) and explore Chill Coveȇs very own forest. Ask for a tougher route and the guide will lead you to &Kill &ove # Treasure Ba\ Bintan a muddier and challenging path. -l 5aMa +aMi .M 01 .awasan 3ariwisata /aJoi TeluN 6ebonJ As the sun sets, make your way down to the Mangrove /aJoi Bintan .eSulauan 5iau 2155 Ȃ Ζndonesia Wetlands for the 1ight Adventure. If the stars are aligned - good weather - families of fireflies will light up the trees as you 3Kone 1umber 62 0 61682 cruise down the mangrove. Alternatively, you can enjoy the (mail enTuiries#treasureba\bintancom serenity of the tranquil night covered by a blanket of twinkling )acebooN ΖnstaJram #treasureba\bintanofficial stars. :ebsite wwwtreasureba\bintancom The spa carries products and treatments from renowed brand, ila.

The villas’ en-suite bathrooms all come with a bathtub for a relaxing soak.

Terrace overlooking the South China Sea

The one-bedroom Nasi Tumbeng beachfront villa from The Dining includes a living Room room, en-suite bathroom, a terrace and a private pool.

106 epicureasia.com TRAVEL FEATURE

oul refreshing Feeling stuck in the concrete jungle? Jessica Chan takes a breather and sets off to The Residence Bintan for a quick getaway.

here is one beautiful way to greet the day when you are able to jump into a rainbow of corals, fishes and, even, sea at The Residence Bintan and that’s by the private pool urchins just 30 minutes away from the resort. Clown fishes T of its beachfront villa. On a good day, you can admire duck into neon-coloured sea anemone. A school of juvenile the glimmeringS sea bed, courtesy of the receding tide and the sweetlips dodges my clumsy flippers. Ten minutes in, a hungry scattering of sun rays peeking through thick clouds. Soon enough bumphead parrotfish begins to munch on a bed of coral. the chirping of birds would remind you that it’s time for breakfast. The only worthy conclusion to such a majestic sight is a Hop onto a bicycle – not unlike those vintage models with wicker warming Potali treatment at the spa. (The treatment, inspired baskets traversing the French arrondissements – and arrive at The by Ayurvedic traditions, hails from renowned British brand Dining Room for a plate of kway teow goreng with fiery sambal on ila.) The treatment room, a traditional hut enveloped in a the side. With a sprawling view of the property and coastline in full camouflage of lush bushes and trees, hints at its existence only view, there is nothing more to do then to toss all worries out of the by the inviting aroma of frankincense and the soft murmurs of terrace and while the morning away. Tibetian music. Feel your tension melt away as the surprisingly It’s moments like these that make Cenizaro Hotels & Resorts’ strong therapist pounds the potli – stuffed with therapeutic latest outpost so absorbing to weary city folks. herbs and warmed with medicated oils – on your back. A fluid, rhythmic massage to balance feminine and masculine energies One good thing after another (ida and pingala) follows after. A 70-minute drive (from Bandar Bentan Telani Ferry Terminal) is a tad long but, the far-flung setting is what blankets the property Indonesian flavours in a soothing, laidback tranquillity. Even as the weekend crowd When it comes to the cuisine, there’s only one chef overseeing floods in – couples, families and staff on a company retreat – The the two restaurants on the premise. Yet, head chef Lombok Residence Bintan retains its cool, serene vibe. It feels as if you have Tambunan manages to straddle both with ease. arrived at a private island off the map, one that Robinson Crusoe Rica Rica proudly showcases the archipelago’s rich spices wouldn’t have mind staying on for another 20 years. and traditions in a lavish setting overlooking the beach. I have There is an instant connection to nature. Flowers in shades of my first taste of Balinese duck. Tender slivers of duck breast, yellow and purple juxtapose with the white villas and evergreen prepared French-style but infused with betutu spices, were a trees, while the salty tang of the South China Sea wafts overhead. dream with the trio of homemade sambal. Even the traditional Many activities revolve around the private stretch of beach and chendol gets an upgrade here. The guests around me are full the nearby rainforest. Experts are often invited to the resort to of praise for the coconut pandan custard and torch ginger ice enrich the guest experience. The sunrise yoga on the terrace with cream. WeBarre’s Anabel Chew and a botanical, watercolour workshop The Dining Room (where guests can participate in cooking on local flora with Lucinda Law are among the highlights. For classes with Tambunan) offers an international spread with an something challenging and immersive, try the ATV ride. The rugged Indonesian focus. Instead of a cake, a towering nasi tumpeng course of overarching trees, make-shift bridges and hair-pin turns greets the birthday girls at another table. It’s a Slametan will stump even experienced drivers. ceremony favourite and no one could say no to the mountain Yet, that pales in comparison to snorkelling in the cerulean of grilled prawns and fried chicken tossed in sambal on the waters of Mapur Island. I’m no stranger to the Bintan’s murky side. waters and bleached corals, so, imagine my surprise that I’m I’ll be taking this particular tradition home, with gusto. e

epicureasia.com 107 FOOD TALK

A Soto Ayam of One’s Own If you think dining solo is a socially inconvenient experience, wait till you try cooking for one. Eve Tedja shares her culinary experiments.

irm, aromatic stalks of lemongrass. Checked. Fresh turmeric would not be asked the same question. But it would mean that root. Checked. Cream coloured candlenuts. Checked. The the ingredients would be pre-packaged in plastic and I would F grocery list to prepare my favourite soto ayam from scratch end up with too much of everything that stay in the fridge until always starts with these ingredients. Shortcuts will not do. Only they shrivel past their expiry dates. (I hate food waste.) Besides, fresh turmeric – not ground – and the best spices can produce everybody knows that the freshest ingredients are in the local a bright clear herbal broth that delights with every sip. My soto markets. ayam should come with a perfectly soft-boiled egg, extra fried Living and cooking solo is common in many Western shallots, and still crunchy bean sprouts that do not flounder in the countries and urbanised Asian cities. But, where I live, it is soup. a social oddity. A German friend who came to Bali told me Yes, it’s much work for a bowl of yellow chicken soup that can once that after exploring the island for a week and answering be eaten at any stall in Bali for just Rp30,000 or less. questions from naturally curious and friendly locals, she began Being raised by a mother who pooh-poohed the idea of instant to grasp the wisdom of a white lie. At the end of her trip, she seasoning or carton coconut milk is definitely one of the reasons had created a fictitious fiancé who just launched a cafe and why I prefer to fuss over this Indonesian comfort dish in my own couldn’t possibly leave his staff and his dachshund behind. The kitchen. I know I deserve to eat well, even if I’m just cooking for importance of collectivism is a hard concept to understand, one person. especially if one comes from an individualistic culture. I have I have embarked on solo cooking adventures for the last six experienced both cultures in my life and even until know I am years since my dear late mother passed away. Sadly, I never got still baffled by the differences. Here, the idea that a person can down to master her vast repertoire of Indonesian (in particular, be alone and not lonely is as alien as a single woman who has Balinese) and Chinese recipes. Undaunted, I asked my aunts for learned to find happiness in cooking and eating well for herself. theirs. I searched for recipes online and bought a succession I wholeheartedly agree that food tastes so much better of cookbooks in a quest to replicate the flavours my mum used when it is shared, but it doesn’t mean that I can’t also eat well to impart in her dishes, whether it’s adding the right amount of for dinner. Having grown up on a diet of tongue numbing nutmeg in potato fritters or shrimps in a stir-fry for that extra sambal, my fortified palate craves for more chilli. The joy of oomph. Living alone in Bali, in a food culture that emphasises on cooking for myself is that I can add as many chillies as I want to sharing, and shopping at food markets that tend to portion the a dish without upsetting anyone’s delicate stomach. Now, I have ingredients for a family of at least four, I have to learn how to developed a weekly ritual. I give a new recipe a try and take the mentally divide the measurements. time to shop. As I put down my grocery bag, I connect my phone Grocery shopping tends to be an awkward social experiment, to the speaker and let Billie Holiday lull me as I wash, slice, cut, especially at the local markets. “Why only one piece of ginger and chop, blanch the ingredients and boil my soto ayam. Then, I four pieces of chillies? It won’t be enough,” said an ibu vegetable carefully stack the glass noodles, bean sprouts and cabbage in

seller to me once, as she puts my paltry purchase in a small a deep bowl, ladling in the aromatic yellow golden soup. I top LIM AN-LING (WWW.MUSINGCATS.COM) plastic bag. I explained to her that I only cook for myself to which it off with celery leaves, extra fried shallots, chopped chillies, she responded pityingly, “No husband?” in an disarmingly nosy and sliced eggs. It might not be a perfect soto ayam, but it is manner. Of course, I can always go to the supermarket, where I completely mine to savour. e ILLUSTRATION

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epicureasia.com 111 EPICURE'S CHOICE

If Salvador Dali and Elsa Schiaparelli lived in modern times, they wouldn't have minded residing in Hôtel de Berri. The Luxury Collection’s latest addition in the 8th arrondissement (a stone’s throw away from Champs-Élysées) is an elegant Parisian mansion inspired by these great artists. The former 1970s office building is cloaked in vibrant colours and prints that are juxtaposed against a scattering of Art Deco antiques and artworks. Within are a spa, fitness centre and 76 rooms, of which 35 are suites. Each suite category features an entrancing colour scheme, a fireplace and an unparalleled view of the meticulously manicured 32,000 sq ft garden. There’s also Le Schiap where Tuscan native Michele Dalla Valle (formerly Plaza Athénée) presents Italian classics to go along with the neoclassical tipples available at the bar, Le Bizazz. Room rates from €500 (S$763). 18-22 Rue de Berri, 75008 Paris, France. Tel: +33 1 76 53 77 70

Laboratorio Paravicini unveils its head-turning Birds of Paradise collection (from US$360/S$493 for a set of six). The White showcases the vibrancy of the tropical birds against a white ceramic background, while the Gold Paradise adds playful touches of colour to any table space. Most alluring is Dinner Plate #6 (US$80) where a black bird spreads its vividly yellow plumage in contrast to its blood red wings. The colours purportedly stay as bright as the day it came out of the oven even after multiple use as Paravicini utilises the time-honoured technique of Gran Fuoco sulla Terraglia Bianca (high temperature glost-firing on white earthenware). artemest.com

If viewings of Madonna dei Pellegrini and Call of St. Matthew isn’t enough to satisfy the art history buff in you, opt for luxury operator Roma Experience's Restoring Caravaggio (€245/person). The VIP tour kicks off with a guided walking tour through the churches displaying the famed artist’s baroque-style oeuvres and concludes with an intimate look into the acclaimed restoration lab, Merlini-Storti. There, guest can try their hand at recreating faded colours and watch expert restorers bring storied masterpieces by the likes of Caravaggio, Raphael and Tintoretto back to life. romaexperience.com/restoring-caravaggio-vip-rome-tour

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