Singapore Little Black Book Represent Singapore Dollars

Little India Katong & Joo Chiat Singapore Dempsey Hill Little Black Book

Bras Basah & Bugis

Tiong Bahru

Chinatown

4TH EDITION

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Editor’s note Welcome

km i Chang Welcome to the 2015 edition of the Time Out Singapore Welcome Little Black Book. We’ve revamped this edition to

present not only the very best of Singapore’s eating, Pulau Ubin Pulau

shopping and nightlife, but a number of new expanded Area Guides area guides to help you get off the beaten path and show you what really makes this island nation so

Tampines strangely wonderful. 06

Area Guides Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to get lost in Singapore (with the help of this guide, Malaysia of course) and go beyond what you think you know

about this Little Red Dot. Go exploring around any Shop t

Katong & Joo Chia Joo & Katong of the ten areas detailed in this guide and you may Toa Payoh Toa

Shop y

Marina Ba Marina come across a unique playground shaped like a dragon

Cruise Centre Cruise (p32), discover a stock market-inspired bar with

Bishan o

Ang Mo Ki Mo Ang rising and falling beer prices (p44), or even find

y Ba Marina

Little India Little yourself arguing with a local about the best way to

Kampong Glam Kampong eat chicken rice (p42). These are just a few things

n Chinatow

Reservoir

a Sentos MacRitchie MacRitchie

that make Singapore special – find out what makes it Eat

Orchard Road Orchard s Bras Basah & Bugi & Basah Bras truly wonderful for you.

Eat

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u Bahr Tiong

Sembawang $ in the Time Out Singapore Little Black Book represent Singapore Dollars

Dempsey Hill Dempsey

e Singapor

Cruise Centre Cruise Guide Editor Berwin Song Guide Designer Coral Chum Contributors Alexandra Karplus, Woodlands

Singapore Laura Venuto, Clare Brundle, Gwen Pew, Cheryl Wen, Sharon Lam,

Bukit Timah Timah Bukit

e Reserv Nature Play

Labrador Park Labrador Nicholas Fonseca, Robert Polmear Commercial Manager Nicholas Chan

Queenstown

& Night Safari Night & o Singapore Zo Singapore Creative Director Phil Bunting CEO Michael Rodrigues Play Print & Digital Publishing Pty Ltd (ABN 50 125 441 812) under the authority and in collaboration with Time Out Johor Causeway Johor International Limited London UK. Time Out ® is the registered trademark of Time Out Group Limited, London UK. The right to use the trademark, name and logo of “Time Out” are licensed from Time Out Group Limited London UK, © 2010. Printed by Webstar, Bluestar Group, 83 Derby St, Silverwater NSW. Reproduction in whole or in part is not permitted without the written permission of the publisher and Time Out Group Limited. The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for errors or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily the views of the publishers. Stay This book has been produced by Print & Digital Publishing Pty Ltd’s Custom Guide Division on behalf of the

Sungei Buloh Sungei Singapore Tourism Board. For enquiries on the book call +61 2 8239 5990 or visit adcentre.au.timeout.com Jurong Bird Park Bird Jurong

Stay Lim Chu Kang Chu Lim Info is correct at time of printing but may be subject to changes. For the latest info on Singapore visit YourSingapore.com

Essential Info

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Welcome to the Little Red Dot Welcome

Think you know Singapore? Here are ten Welcome strangely wonderful facts about the Lion City Area Guides Area Guides

Enjoying the rich

dining culture Shop

Shop 1 Singapore’s original name – Singapura – meaning ‘Lion City’ in Malay, was given when the city’s 13th century founder, Srivijayan Sang Nila Utama, reportedly saw a lion when he first arrived on these shores. However, since no lions ever lived on the island, Eat it is most likely that what he saw was Eat Singapore skyline a tiger. Harimaupura – ‘Tiger City’ – could be a more fitting name.

ingapore is a place with many has made big investments into the 2 While English, Chinese, Tamil and Bukit Timah Snicknames. Some call it the ‘Little tourism industry, from the opening Malay are Singapore’s four official Nature Reserve Red Dot’ due to the city-state’s size of two casino resorts at Marina Bay languages, its national language – and and appearance on world maps; others Sands and Resorts World Sentosa, to the one its national anthem bears – is Play ‘Singapour’ due to its humidity and wet converting the former army base of Malay. But if you really want to blend 5 The Singapore Flyer observation Play season rain showers. Some have also Gillman Barracks into an international in with the locals, try learning a few wheel (one of the largest in the dubbed it ‘Singabore’ for its allegedly art cluster and developing sustainable phrases of Singlish (see p7). world) had its direction changed a sterile environment – while we can’t green areas around the island. The few months after the official opening, deny the first few, this last name is local creative scene has also been 3 While Changi Airport has won as feng shui masters believe that it one we hope to dispel. flourishing, with the presence of more numerous accolades for being one of should draw the sea water (symbolic of

indie musicians and fashion designers. the world’s best, it may also boast one wealth) into the land rather than away. Stay Singapore is a city full of strangely of the world’s most unique runways: unique and wonderfully diverse Whatever experience you’re looking the East Coast Parkway (ECP) was 6 The city’s tallest buildings – a Stay experiences around every corner, for, Singapore has it. You may think designed to be converted into a title shared by United Overseas Bank where shophouses exist alongside you know the ‘Lion City’, but scratch landing strip by removing the potted (UOB) Plaza One, Republic Plaza and skyscrapers, hawker food gets cooked beneath the surface, and you’ll plants in the middle. One Raffles Place – are capped at up streets away from restaurants discover a wealth of experiences that 280m due to nearby air bases. While Essential Info helmed by celebrity chefs (see Eat, you never realised this small island 4 The Bukit Timah Nature Reserve that may limit Singapore’s standing p38), and nearly every month features could hold. As a quick introduction, has more tree species than the whole amongst the tallest skyscrapers of a massive event (see Calendar, p8). here are ten fun facts about of North America. For more about the world, it still holds the record for In recent years, the government Singapore’s history and culture. Singapore’s green areas, see p33. having the world’s highest alfresco

4 5 Essential Info

1-Altitude Welcome Got Singlish? A brief guide to Singapore’s own pidgin English Welcome Singlish draws heavily from Chinese grammar translated back to English, spoken with the cadences and the speed of Malay, and peppered with a slew of dialect expressions. Sentences are shortened to their maximum efficiency – asking if someone can do Area Guides something becomes ‘can or not’, with an equally curt response: ‘can’ (yes) or ‘cannot’ (no). Locals often add ‘lah’ to the end of sentences of exclamations for emphasis, such as telling an impatient person to ‘Wait, lah!’. Here are a few key terms. Area Guides “Ah beng” A pejorative term to “Chope” To reserve something. denote a male of little class Locals chope their seats at or education, who acts in an hawker centres by putting

overly loud fashion (basically, tissue packets on seats while Shop a bogan). going off to get their food. Shop “Ah lian” A female ah beng. “Isit?” Interchangeable Duxton Pinnacle with the English expression “Aiyah/Aiyoh” Chinese equivalent ‘Really?’ or ‘Is that so?’ of ‘Oh no!’ or ‘Oh dear!’ “Kena” An expression to mean “Ang moh” Literally means red ‘got’ i.e. ‘I kena sunburned’ hair. A common term used to means ‘I got sunburned’. Eat describe Caucasians. Eat “Kiasu” (pronounced kee-ah- “Atas” (pronounced ah-tus) To soo) To be afraid of losing or describe superiority, often missing out on something. It’s used in reference to people who a defining characteristic of are arrogant. many Singaporeans, who will buy up early-bird event tickets,

“Aunty/Uncle” The terms reserve opening-night tables at Play The city’s are used as a generic form new restaurants or exploit any tallest skyscrapers

Play of address for middle-aged other opportunity to get ahead. or elderly women and men. bar: 1-Altitude, which sits on the top of when you’re in a cab, that’s what Referring to older Singaporeans “Kopitiam” Neighbourhood One Raffles Place (see Play, p43). it is! in this way will give an ang canteen, literally means moh added credibility. Remember ‘coffee shop’. 7 Singapore also set the world 9 More than 90 per cent of the city’s to smile.

record for the longest karaoke population live in government housing “Makan” Malay term for eating. Stay session – it was held at the Bukit known as HDB (Housing Development “Bo pian” Hokkien term to mean Batok Community Centre and lasted Board) flats – some of the newer HDB that there is no other choice. “Neh mind” The Singlish Stay 60 hours. 750 residents participated apartments, such as Duxton Pinnacle equivalent of ‘never mind’. (for more on life in the Heartlands, near Chinatown, are among the most “Catch no ball” Signifies a lack see p30). covetable places to live on the island. of understanding i.e. ‘I don’t “Shiok” An expression conveying get it.’ top quality or extreme pleasure. Essential Info 8 Singapore was the first city in the 10 Singapore is one of only three world to manage road congestion by surviving city-states in the world (the “Cheem” Hokkien term meaning “Spoil market” Someone who does something is profound or too his work so well that he makes implementing an electronic pricing other two being Monaco and Vatican intellectual. everyone look bad. system. So if you hear a beep go off City).

6 7 Essential Info

Grand Prix Season Singapore

Events Calendar Expect high-speed night time action Welcome on the Marina Bay F1 street circuit, replete with a host of international Plan your visit around Singapore’s festive seasons headliners, world-class entertainment Welcome and high-glam parties. (www.singaporegp.sg) Sep

Oct-Dec Area Guides

Deepavali New year at Marina Bay Little India’s Serangoon Road is artfully illuminated for this Hindu festival of light, symbolising the Area Guides Jul-Sep triumph of good over darkness. Oct

Hari Raya Puasa Christmas In celebration of the end of the Orchard Road and Marina Bay are month-long Ramadan fasting period, dressed in Yuletide finery and lights Shop the streets of Kampong Glam come as Christmas carols play on loop at Shop alive with roadside bazaars and stalls supermarkets, shops and malls – peddling traditional Malay food and the weather stays nice and balmy, goods. Jul of course. Dec

National Day Parade Year-end parties Singapore’s independence is There’s no time for parties like the Chingay Parade celebrated every 9 August with much end of the year. In early December Eat pomp and hullabaloo. The official you’ve got the beach-side dance Eat parade at Marina Bay involves patriotic festival ZoukOut, then on New Year’s Jan-Mar Apr-Jun Singaporeans dressed in red and white Eve there are countdown parties watching a series of decorated floats, galore at Marina Bay and Siloso Singapore Art Week The Great Singapore Sale military marches and painstakingly Beach. Dec-Jan Coinciding with Art Stage Singapore, Shoppers go into overdrive during this synchronised dances, culminating with the biggest contemporary art fair in annual event, with hundreds of shops fireworks. Aug Southeast Asia, Singapore’s gallery and malls offering big discounts. (www. Play scene goes into overdrive with major greatsingaporesale.com.sg) May-Jul Singapore International Festival Play shows and art openings in all the of Arts (SIFA) major art districts around town. Baybeats Rebranded from the annual Singapore (www.artweek.sg) Jan This annual three-day alternative music Arts Festival, this six-week festival is festival organised by the Esplanade – an annual celebration of performing Chinese New Year now into its second decade – is known arts, presenting international works in

The biggest celebration of the year. for its showcase of up-and-coming theatre, dance and music. (www.sifa. Stay Activities take place all around town local indie bands, who audition for a sg) Aug-Sep but centre around Chinatown, with slot on stage alongside international

Stay Deepavali street-lighting ceremonies, music, acts. (www.baybeats.com.sg) Jun Mid-Autumn Festival performances and a street market This Chinese festival in honour of the hawking decorative items and Singapore Food Festival full moon is celebrated with colourful traditional snacks. Associated events An annual celebration of local cuisine paper lanterns and street lights. Essential Info include the wonderfully kitsch Chingay featuring a range of alfresco food Mooncakes – the food of the festival Want more? Parade, lion dance competition and stalls around Marina Bay with the – abounds in Chinatown as well as in Head to YourSingapore.com for plenty of fireworks. (www.chingay.org. city’s best hawkers and star chefs hotels and Chinese restaurants across more events and festivals sg) Jan-Feb offering locally-inspired dishes. Jun-Jul the island. Aug-Sep

8 9 Essential Info

Coronation

Bukit Timah Rd Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied Welcome Area Guides Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Bishan ToaSims Dr Payoh Little India & Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd Jalan Besar Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Does size really Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave

Welcome Rd Newton Flyover Holland Farrer Rd Stevens Rd matter? Holland Flyover Guillemard Rd Scotts Rd Geylang Rd Jin Besar Katong & Joo Chiat Even with Singapore’s relatively small Holland Rd Cluny Bukit Dunman Rd Dempsey HillRd

Commonwealth Area Guides scale, it’s packed with diverse areas, Timah Rd Crawford St Queensway Rd Mountbatten Rd Holland Napier Rd Haig Rd KampongVictoria St Glam Tanjong Ave each with its own distinct flavour and Kallang Paya Scotts Rd Rd charm. Here are ten key areas to Rochor Katong Rd

Bideford Jin Besar help you dig a little deeper into this Rd Amber Rd

Tanglin Lebar Expy Lebar Rochor Rd Paterson Rd Orchard Rd Mountbatten Rd strangely wonderful island – get out Ophir Rd Ave Penang Rd Bras Basah Mountbatten Republic Rd

Commonwealth Grange Rd there and discover a side of Singapore Grange Rd Republic Area Guides

you’ve never seen. & Bugis Ophir Rd Blvd

River Valley Rd Tanjong Rhu Flyover Highway

Tanglin Rd Nicoll Beach Rd Kim Seng Rd River Valley Rd Raffles Blvd Shop Queensway Singapore Hill St Ave tsdown Queenstown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown Ganges Ave

Alexandra Rd Shop By area Zion Rd

Outram Outram Havelock Rd Tiong BahruRd

(p12) Delta

Bras Basah & Bugis Rd Church Arts district with Lower Chin Swee Rd St Jin Bukit Merah red-light history Cross St Rd

Delta

Jin Bukit Merah Chinatown (p14) Henderson Rd Lower

F&B hotspot with Chinese Eat

Cantonment culture and heritage Bahru Dr Eat Shenton Way Kampong Alexandra Rd West Coast Highway Delta Rd Rd

Dempsey Hill (p16) Lower Dining in leafy colonial chic Robinson Rd Henderson Rd Chinatown West Coast Keppel Rd Highway Kampong Glam (p18) Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct The Malay and Arab quarter

Marina Bay Play West Coast Highway Katong & Joo Chiat (p20)

Play Multicultural food and flavours

Little India & Jalan Besar (p22)

Indian shops and temples w eta G a s otn e S ya

Marina Bay (p24) Sentosa Stay The CBD and major attractions Singapore

Stay Sentosa (p26) Beaches and resorts

Tiong Bahru (p28) Essential Info Art Deco charm and cafés

Heartlands (p30) Bishan, Queenstown & Toa Payoh

10 11 Essential Info Coronation

Bukit Timah Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied

Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd 5

Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave

Rd Newton Flyover 7 1 Holland Lor Ma Farrer Rd Stevens Rd 7 mbong 3 5 2 mia Saga Jin Ru Holland Flyover 4 6 1 Roberts Ln Guillemard Rd 6 Lor Liput9 Holland Ave Jin Kelabu Asap Scotts Rd Taman WarnaJin Merah Kinte Rd 8 Geylang Rd Race Course Ln Teng Tong Rd 3 5 Jin Besar Cluny Hampshire Rd Lembu Rd Dunman Rd Rowell Rd Sri KrishnanNorthumberland Temple Rd Duku Rd Baboo Ln 8 Tembeling Rd Bukit Hindoo Rd Dunman Rd 2 Welcome

Rd Joo Chiat Rd Chander Rd 8 Holland Rd 4 Commonwealth Bras Basah & Bugis Race Course Rd Marshall LnOnan Rd 2 Timah Rd 3 Veerasamy Rd Ceylon Rd Cuff Rd Kampong Kapor Rd Dempsey Rd Chitty Rd Marshall Rd Buffalo Rd Serangoon Rd 6 Queensway 1 Welcome Rd Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Holland Napier Rd Upper Weld Rd 7 Dempsey Rd New Bugis Street, Waterloo Street, Singapore Dickson Rd Tanjong 5 Ave Dunlop St Crawford St Jin Besar Art Museum and the National Museum of SingaporeScotts Rd Kallang Paya East Coast Rd 11 4 7 Rd Clive St Dempsey Rd Area Guides Sungei Rd 6 1 Perak Rd Katong Rd 10

8 4 Harding Rd 5

2 Dempsey Rd Jin Sultan 9 Bideford Victoria St North Bridge Rd Jin Besar Jin Pinang Loewen Rd Rd Amber Rd 3 Aliwal St 1

Tanglin Kandahar St Kwan Im Thong Muscat St Sultan Gate Lebar Expy Lebar Area Guides Rochor Rd Pahang St Hood Cho Temple Bencoolen Link Paterson Rd Orchard Rd Arab St Mountbatten Rd 4 2 Bati Ln6 7 Ave 9 Ophir Rd Haji Lane Baghdad3 St 9 9 Penang Rd 10 1 8 10 1 10 Mountbatten Prinsep St Beach Rd Republic Middle Rd Shop Nicoll Highway Rd 88

Commonwealth Grange Rd Grange Rd Republic

Shop 2 Bencoolen St Bras Basah Rd Ophir Rd 33 Waterloo St Victoria St 6

4 Blvd Queen7 St 4 North Bridge St 55 Bugis Street shops River Valley Rd Beach Rd Eat Tanjong Rhu Flyover Singapore Art Museum Bras Basah Highway Eat nce Singapore’s most colourful Library 3 (100 Victoria St, +65 6332 TanglinO Rd and infamous red-light 3255, www.nlb.gov.sg), built in 2005. buildings, plus a number of other of homemade labneh. Their bakery Nicoll district, Bugis was cleaned up and In addition to the extensive main Kim Seng Rd local art galleries along Queen overdoughs (www.overdoughs.com), at River Valley Rd rehabilitated in the ’80s into its collection in the basement, there are and Waterloo Streets. SAM at 8Q 7 the entrance, bakes up tasty pastries,Raffles Blvd modern version, with shopping spacious reference sections on the (8 Queen St, +65 6332 3222, cakes and baklavas. complexes galore and a new heritage upper floors that offer quiet study singaporeartmuseum.sg) is the Queensway Play Ave district featuring Singapore’s top spots and great views of the city. Singapore Art Museum’s newest From there,Hill St cross Middle Road onto tsdown museums. Bugis StreetAlexandra 1 Rd Rounding out the complex are contemporary art extension, the pedestrian stretch of Waterloo Por Portsdown Play (3 New Bugis St, +65 6338 9513, several smallGanges exhibition Ave spaces and showcasing modern installation works, Street, where you’ll come across floods www.bugisstreet.com.sg) itself has the Drama Centre 4 (Lvl 5, video and photography, performance of worshippers at the Kwan Im Thong4 Raffles Ave been turned into a covered market, 100 Victoria St, +65 6837 8400, art and sound art. Hood Cho Temple 9 (178 Waterloo St, 5 6 Alexandra Rd housing close to 800 stalls hawking www.dramacentre.com), which +65 6337 3965), evidence that not cheap souvenirs and street food, while hosts regular performances from At the top of Waterloo St, be sure to everything is completely modernised 8 the original cobblestone stretch has local theatre companies. peek into ArtichokeHavelock Café Rd here. Built in 1884, the Buddhist Stay Rd been incorporated into Bugis Junction (161 Middle Rd, +65 6336 6949, temple is dedicated to the goddess of 2 (200 Victoria St, +65 6557 6557, The museums are clustered around www.artichoke.com.sg), which offers mercy and was used as a refugeEsplanade Dr for the Marina Bay Stay

Zion Rd www.bugisjunction-mall.com.sg) across theDelta Bras Basah arts district, which Middle Eastern-inspired sharing plates sick and destitute during the Japanese

Outram ECP

the street, which features four floors of is home to the National MuseumTiong Bahru St of whipped up by chef-owner Bjorn Shen occupation. Next to it is the Sri Bayfront Ave Bayfront

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Tiong Bahru Rd Church shopping, a food court and restaurant Singapore 5 (93 Stamford LimRd, Liak St +65 (a returnee from Australia), whose Krishnan Temple 10 (152 Waterloo St, Rd Lower St Essential Info level, a movie theatre and more, all 6332 3659, www.nationalmuseum.sg)Eng Hoon St Chin Sweeapproach Rd is represented best by the +65 6337 7957), which began in 1870

Seng Poh Ln built over the Bugis MRT station. and the Singapore Art Museum 65 3 eggs shakshouka – tender, fall-apart as a banyan tree with a few deities Eng Jin Bukit Merah Seng Poh Rd Cross St

(71 Bras Basah Rd, +654 6332 3222,Watt St 7 chunks of fresh lamb in a lightly tart placed next to it and has evolved Bahru Dr 1 Guan Chuan St Pagoda St Further down Victoria Street is the Rd www.singaporeartmuseum.sg), tomato stew scented with cumin and into this vivid, colourful Hindu temple Smith St 2 Gardens 2 Mohamed Ln 16-storey, glass-walled National both housed in grand colonial-era1 8 Tiong Poh Rd turmeric, and topped with a dollop dedicated to Lord Krishna. Kampong 6 3 Trengganu St 5 by the Bay Delta 6 Club St 2 Chay Yan St Chin Swee Rd Club St Sago Ln 3 12 Ann Siang8 Rd 13 Essential Info Spring St South BridgeErskine Rd Rd 10 1 Keong Saik Rd Jin Bukit Merah Spring St Kreta Ayer Rd 7 Marina Blvd Henderson Rd Lower 4 9 Marina Mall Marina Gardens Neil Rd Kadayanallur St Bayfront Ave Maxwell Rd

Cantonment

Robinson Rd

Shenton Way

Alexandra Rd West Coast Highway Delta Rd Rd

Lower

Henderson Rd West Coast Keppel Rd Highway Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct

West Coast Highway

w eta G a s otn e S ya Imbiah Rd

Garden Ave Imbiah Imbiah Walk Rd Gateway Ave Siloso Rd

Rd 3 2 Imbiah Artillery Ave

Beach

4 view

Siloso Beach 5View Artillery Ave

7 Allanbrooke Rd 8

6 Coronation

Bukit Timah Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied

Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd

5 Joo Chiat Terrace Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave

Rd 7 Newton Flyover Joo Chiat Ln Holland 7 Lor Mambong Farrer Rd Stevens Rd 7 3 Ceylon Rd 5 2 mia Saga Jin Ru Holland Flyover 4 6 1 Roberts Ln Guillemard Rd 6 Lor Liput9 Holland Ave Jin Kelabu Asap Scotts Rd Taman WarnaJin Merah Kinte Rd 8 Geylang Rd Race Course Ln 6 Teng Tong Rd 3 5 Jin Besar Cluny Hampshire Rd Lembu Rd Dunman Rd Rowell Rd Northumberland Rd 4 Duku Rd Baboo Ln Tembeling Rd Hindoo Rd Bukit 2 Dunman Rd

Rd Clive St Dempsey Rd 1 11 1 3 Sungei Rd Perak Rd Katong Rd 6 Harding Rd 5 9 Dempsey Rd Jin Sultan 7 13 8 4 Bideford Victoria St North Bridge Rd Jin Besar 2 Jin Pinang 2 Loewen Rd Rd Amber Rd Aliwal St

Tanglin 1 Kandahar4 St Muscat St Sultan Gate Lebar Expy Lebar Rochor Rd Pahang St Bencoolen Link 3 Paterson Rd Orchard Rd Arab St Mountbatten Rd Bali5 Ln Ave 7 Ophir Rd 7Haji Lane Baghdad St Penang Rd 8 1 9 6 Mountbatten Prinsep St 8Beach Rd Republic 3 Middle Rd Nicoll Highway Rd

Commonwealth Grange Rd Grange Rd Republic

Bencoolen St Bras Basah Rd Ophir Rd Waterloo St Victoria6 St 4 Queen St Blvd

North Bridge St River Valley Rd 5 Beach Rd Tanjong Rhu Flyover Highway

Tanglin Rd Nicoll

Kim Seng Rd River Valley Rd Raffles Blvd

Queensway Ave Hill St tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown Ganges Ave 4 Raffles Ave 5 6 Alexandra Rd

Havelock Rd Rd 3

Esplanade Dr Sri Mariamman Temple Welcome Marina Bay

Zion Rd Delta Chinatown

Outram ECP Tiong Bahru St Welcome

Temple Street, Smith Street, Ann Siang Hill, Ave Bayfront

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Tiong Bahru Rd Church Lim Liak St Club Street and Keong Saik Road Rd Lower Eng Hoon St St Chin Swee Rd Area Guides The Cufflink Seng Poh Ln Club 5 3 Eng Jin Bukit Merah Seng Poh Rd Cross St 4 Watt St 7 d Temple St Guan Chuan St 88Pagoda St Rd Area Guides Smith St Gardens 2 Mohame Tiong Poh Rd 1 8 d Ln 6 6 New Bridge R 6 9 St by the Bay Delta Club 2 Chay Yan St Chin Swee Rd Shop 4 Sago Ln 3 Ann Siang Rd 4

Shop 1 SouthErskine Bridge Rd Rd 1 Kreta Ayer Rd Spring St 1 Jin Bukit Merah Keong Saik Rd including kegged cocktails, and casual 2 Marina Blvd Henderson Rd Lower diner The Study 2 (49 Keong Saik Rd, +65 6221 8338, www.the-study. Marina Mall Marina Gardens

sg), from British chef Jason Atherton Neil Rd 77 5 (another Ramsey protégé), which Kadayanallur St Bayfront Ave

3 Maxwell Rd Eat also leads to the password-protected Chinatown Maxwell Food Centre speakeasy bar The Library. Eat 7 (1 Kadayanallur St), which hosts Other key bars in the area are L’Aiglon over 100 stalls, including Tian Tian Dr ince Chinatowns usually spring Today, a few of the old shophouses 3 (69 Neil Rd, +65 6220 0369, Chicken Rice (stall 10), considered by Sup in cities where Chinese people remain, although many have been www.barlaiglon.com), Jigger andCantonment Pony some to be Singapore’s best. are a minority, it’s a bit strange restored – in recent years, Chinatown 4 (101 Amoy St, +65 6223 9101, that Singapore – a country where has seen the rise of several rapidly www. jiggerandpony.com), and The Around Chinatown’s bustling central Robinson Rd the Chinese outnumber all other transforming F&B stretches, namely Cufflink Club 5 (6 Jiak Chuan Rd, area (including Smith Street, Pagoda Play races by far – should also have one. along Keong Saik Road and Club +65 9694 9623, www.thecufflinkclub. Street and Temple Street, plus Shenton Way Play The reasons date back to colonial Street, with international chefs and com), all of which serve well-crafted their adjoining alleys) – are shops times, when Sir Stamford Raffles bartenders staking their claim on and inventive cocktails (expect to pay filled with Chinese ‘antiques’ and Alexandra Rd organisedDelta Rd the influx of immigrants the scene. On the weekend, the around $20/drink). all manner of cheap souvenirs. For West Coast Highway based on their cultural origins. He nexus of Club Street and Ann Siang some insight into the area’s history, gave the Chinese one of the largest Road is blocked off from cars, and Still, there’s plenty of traditional Rd visit the Chinatown Heritage Centre 8 portions of land, just southwest of the restaurants set up tables right on the culture and cuisine on hand as well, (48 Pagoda St, +65 6325 2878, Stay Singapore River. Still, the area quickly street, establishing the area as a hip particularly at the pedestrianised chinatownheritagecentre.sg). At the Lower became overcrowded; after World alternative to the traditional nightlife Chinatown Food Street 6 , which end of the same street is the city’s Stay War II, Chinatown became a centre hotspots of Boat and Clarke Quays. takes up half the length of Smith largest and oldest Hindu temple, Sri for political agitation and rioting. Street, allowing you to dine alfresco on Mariamman Temple 9 (244 South Gradually, as Singapore established Among the superstars here are Oxwell traditional dishes like fishball noodles Bridge Rd, +65 6223 4064). Built in the Housing Development Board, & Co 1 (5 Ann Siang Rd, +65 6438 and char kway teow (a noodle dish 1863, it’s famous for its staggeringly Essential Info Henderson Rd residents were moved to housing 3984, www.oxwellandco.com), started fried with fresh cockles). If that’s not detailed gopuram (tower gateway). estates in other parts of the island, by Gordon Ramsey protégé Mark enough, you can hop across the road It’s also the site of Theemidhi, a West Coast and the ‘big clean up’ of slums and Sargeant, which has a number of Keppelto one ofRd the most popular hawker remarkable fire-walking ceremony held crime improved conditions. creative drink concepts at their bar, centres in town, Maxwell Food Centre a week before Deepavali in October. Highway 14 15 Essential Info Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct

West Coast Highway

w eta G a s otn e S ya Imbiah Rd

Garden Ave Imbiah Imbiah Walk Rd Gateway Ave Siloso Rd

Rd 3 2 Imbiah Artillery Ave

Beach

4 view

Siloso Beach 5View Artillery Ave

7 Allanbrooke Rd 8

6 Coronation

Bukit Timah Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied

Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd

5 Joo Chiat Terrace Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave

Rd 7 Newton Flyover Joo Chiat Ln Holland 7 Lor Ma Farrer Rd Stevens Rd 7 mbong 3 Ceylon Rd 5 2 mia Saga Jin Ru Holland Flyover 4 6 1 Roberts Ln Guillemard Rd 6 Lor Liput9 Holland Ave Jin Kelabu Asap Scotts Rd Taman WarnaJin Merah Kinte Rd 8 Geylang Rd Race Course Ln 6 Teng Tong Rd 3 5 Jin Besar Cluny Hampshire Rd Lembu Rd Dunman Rd Rowell Rd Northumberland Rd 4 Duku Rd Baboo Ln Tembeling Rd Hindoo Rd Bukit 2 Dunman Rd

Rd Joo Chiat Rd Chander Rd 8 Holland Rd 4 Commonwealth Race Course Rd Marshall LnOnan Rd Timah Rd 2 Veerasamy Rd Ceylon Rd Cuff Rd Kampong Kapor Rd Dempsey Rd Buffalo Rd Chitty Rd Marshall Rd Serangoon Rd 3 Queensway 1 Rd Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Holland Napier Rd Upper Weld Rd Dempsey Hill Welcome Dempsey Rd 55 Dickson Rd Tanjong Ave Dempsey Hill 1110 Crawford St Dunlop St Jin Besar 1312 2 Scotts Rd Kallang Paya East Coast Rd

Welcome Cafés, restaurants, Rd Clive St Dempsey Rd 1 gourmet groceries and colonial chic 1211 1 3 1 Sungei Rd Perak Rd Katong Rd 6 Area Guides d House 9 Harding R 5 910 Dempsey Rd Jin Sultan 7 4 88 4 Asiatique Bideford Victoria St North Bridge Rd 13 Jin Besar 14 Collections 2 Jin 2 Loewen Rd Pinang Area Guides Rd Amber Rd Aliwal St

The lush green setting is great for a Tanglin 1 Kandahar4 St Muscat St Sultan Gate Lebar Expy Lebar relaxing weekend brunch. PS.Café 6 Rochor Rd Pahang St Shop 3 (28B Harding Rd, +65 9070 8782, Orchard Rd Bencoolen Link Arab St pscafe.com) is a popular spot, with Paterson Rd Mountbatten Rd Bali Ln Ave Shop 5 traditional eggs Benedict or their Ophir Rd 7Haji Lane signature Brunch Burger topped with 7 Baghdad St Camembert – make sure you get Penang Rd 8 1 9 6 Mountbatten a side of their truffle fries as well. Prinsep St Another early-afternoon weekend dining 8Beach Rd Republic option can be found over at House 7 Middle Rd Nicoll Highway Rd

Eat 3

Commonwealth (8D Dempsey Rd, +65 6475 7787, Grange Rd PS. Café www.dempseyhouse.com). Try the Republic Eat Grange Rd Asian sliders made with pork belly in steamed buns; this can be followed by ucked away near the Botanic creative cocktails can be paired with some serious unwinding right upstairs RedDot Brewhouse Bencoolen St T Gardens and just a few minutes small dishes like the crispy lamb at the Spa Esprit’s Beauty Emporium Bras Basah Rd Ophir Rd from Orchard Road, Dempsey Hill short-ribs. For an experimental twist 8 (Lvl 2, 8D Dempsey Rd, +65 6479 served as the British army barracks in on classic Singaporean dishes (also 0070, www.spa-esprit.com). The spa Dempsey is full of antique shops that Waterloo St Play Victoria St colonial times and more recently as a known as Mod-Sin fusion cuisine), pays tribute to its verdant surroundings offer furniture, masks and trinkets 6 base for the local military. These days, try Pidgin Kitchen & Bar 3 with a range of treatments that make from around the region and throughout 4 Queen St Blvd Play however, the refurbished enclave is (#01-04, Blk 7, Dempsey Rd, +65 use of natural ingredients. China. Woody Antique House 12 filled with tropical trees and hosts 6475 0080, www.pidgin.sg), run by (#01-05, Blk 13, Dempsey Rd, +65 North Bridge St some of the city’s top restaurants, local chef-owner Adrian Ling. Gourmet grocery shopping can also 6471 1770, www.woodyantique.com) gourmet shops and galleries. take place in this neck of the woods. has old Chinese chests, Indian Chop Suey 4 (#01-23, Blk 10, Shop for organic ingredients from doors and Burmese teakwood. River Valley Rd 5 Beach Rd 9 13 Tanjong Rhu Flyover As the sun begins to set on the Dempsey Rd, +65 9224 6611, around the world at Culina Asiatique Collections (Blk 14A, Stay Highway Hill, winers and diners pour into the www.pscafe.com) features Westernised (8 Dempsey Rd, +65 6474 7338, Dempsey Rd. +65 6471 3146, neighbourhood. Standout restaurants Chinese food made popular by www.culina.com.sg) or wander into the www.asiatiquecollections.com) Stay include the White Rabbit 1 overseas diners, such as sweet and cheese room at Jones the Grocer 10 handpicks modern and vintage (39C Harding Rd, +65 9721 0536, sour pork. Share a tower of Monster (#01-12, Blk 9, Dempsey Rd, +65 jewellery, homewares and art from www.thewhiterabbit.com.sg), housed Green Lager at RedDot Brewhouse 5 6476 1512, jonesthegrocer.com) next around the world. Red Sea GalleryTanglin Rd 14 Nicoll in the repurposed Harding Chapel (25A Dempsey Rd, #01-01, +65 6475 door. A few blocks down, top cuts of (Blk 9, Dempsey Rd, +65 6732 6711, Essential Info and serving up modern European 0500, www.reddotbrewhouse.com.sg), meat and sausages are on display at www.redseagallery.com) showcases Kim Seng Rd cuisine, and Disgruntled Chef 2 Singapore’s first local microbrewery Huber’s Butchery 11 (18A Dempsey ceramics, sculptures, paintings and River Valley Rd (26B Dempsey Rd, +65 6476 5305, where acoustic acts perform regular Rd, +65 6737 1588, hubers.com.sg). glass works from Vietnam, Indonesia, www.disgruntledchef.com), where live shows. All have great lunch specials as well. India and New Zealand. Raffles Blvd

16 17 Essential Info Queensway Ave Hill St tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown Ganges Ave 4 Raffles Ave 5 6 Alexandra Rd

Havelock Rd Rd

Esplanade Dr Marina Bay

Zion Rd

Delta

Outram ECP

Tiong Bahru St Bayfront Ave Bayfront

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Tiong Bahru Rd Church Lim Liak St Rd Lower Eng Hoon St Chin Swee Rd St

Seng Poh Ln 5 3 Eng Jin Bukit Merah Seng Poh Rd Cross St

4 Watt St 7 Bahru Dr 1 Guan Chuan St Pagoda St Rd Smith St 2 Gardens 2 Mohamed Ln 1 8 Tiong Poh Rd Kampong 6 3 Trengganu St 5 by the Bay Delta 6 Club St 2 Chay Yan St Chin Swee Rd Club St Sago Ln 3 Ann Siang8 Rd Spring St South BridgeErskine Rd Rd 10 1 Keong Saik Rd Jin Bukit Merah Spring St Kreta Ayer Rd 7 Marina Blvd Henderson Rd Lower 4 9 Marina Mall Marina Gardens Neil Rd Kadayanallur St Bayfront Ave Maxwell Rd

Cantonment

Robinson Rd

Shenton Way

Alexandra Rd West Coast Highway Delta Rd Rd

Lower

Henderson Rd West Coast Keppel Rd Highway Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct

West Coast Highway

w eta G a s otn e S ya Imbiah Rd

Garden Ave Imbiah Imbiah Walk Rd Gateway Ave Siloso Rd

Rd 3 2 Imbiah Artillery Ave

Beach

4 view

Siloso Beach 5View Artillery Ave

7 Allanbrooke Rd 8

6 Coronation

Bukit Timah Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied

Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd

5 Joo Chiat Terrace Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave

Rd Joo Chiat Rd Chander Rd 8 Holland Rd 4 Commonwealth Race Course Rd Marshall LnOnan Rd Timah Rd 2 Veerasamy Rd Ceylon Rd Cuff Rd Kampong Kapor Rd Dempsey Rd Buffalo Rd Chitty Rd Marshall Rd Serangoon Rd 3 Queensway 1 Rd Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Holland Napier Rd Upper Weld Rd Dempsey Rd Dickson Rd Tanjong 5 Ave Dunlop St Crawford St Jin Besar Scotts Rd Welcome Kallang Paya East Coast Rd 11 Kampong Glam 7 Rd Clive St Dempsey Rd 1 Welcome Sultan Mosque, MalaySungei Heritage Rd Centre 6 1 and hipster culture on HajiPerak RdLane Katong Rd 10 Area Guides 8 4 Harding Rd 5

2 Dempsey Rd Jin Sultan 9 Bideford Victoria St North SultanBridge Rd Mosque Jin Besar 2 Jin Loewen Rd Pinang Rd Area Guides Amber Rd 3 Kampong Glam Aliwal S 2 Kandahar St 1 t Tanglin 44

Muscat St Sultan Gate hang St Shop Expy Lebar Rochor Rd Pa Bencoolen Link Paterson Rd Orchard Rd Shop Arab St 3 Mountbatten Rd 5 Bali5 Ln Ave Ophir Rd 7 Baghdad St 7 6 Penang Rd 8 1 99 Haji Lane Mountbatten Prinsep St Beach Rd Eat 8 Republic Eat Middle Rd Nicoll HighwayPiedra Negra Rd Grange Rd 3 Haji Lane

Commonwealth restaurants and boutiques to the area, www.facebook.com/wanderwondersg), Grange Rd giving it a heady mix of old and new a hip local menswearRepublic label aimed at ast of Little India is an enclave of with shophouses selling carpets and – amongst the plethora of Malay and the modern gentleman, street wear streets and landmarks between textiles, as well as Middle Eastern- Middle Eastern restaurants, Cicheti store Sup 6 (34 Haji Ln, +65 6297 E Play Rochor Canal Road and Beach influenced lounges offering kebabs, 3 (52 Kandahar St, +65 6292 5012, 9384, www. supclothing.com), and Road that is the Malay/ArabBencoolen area Stof shawarmas and shishas. www.cicheti.com) is a welcome palateOphir Rd Going Om 7 (63 Haji Ln, +65 6396 Play Singapore.Bras It is stillBasah referred to Rd by cleanser. Tuck into rustic regional 3592, www.going-om.com), one of its original name, Kampong Glam The focal point of Kampong Glam Italian small plates and authentic the few local establishments serving (pronounced ‘Kum-pong Glum’),Waterloo Stremains the impressive Sultan Neapolitan pizzas baked in their booze and something of a spiritual named after the gelam trees that Mosque 1 (3 MuscatVictoria 6St, 6293 St wood-fired oven. For a drink, stop by haven for the city’s minuscule hippy grew in the area (‘kampong’4 in Malay 4405/4043, www.sultanmosque. Japanese-inspired café Maison Ikkoku communityBlvd set up along the alley. Queen St 4 means ‘village’). It was designated by org.sg) – if you look closely at the (20 Kandahar St, +65 6294 0078, Stay Raffles as the site for Sultan Husain base of the dome, you’ll see it’s www. maison-ikkoku.net), which opens At the end of the street, Piedra Negra Shah’s palace after the Sultan had made from glass bottles donatedNorth Bridge St up its rooftop bar to quench your thirst 8 (241 Beach Rd, +65 6291 1297, Stay relinquished the island to the Brits, during the mosque’s reconstruction. with artisan cocktails after sundown. www.piedra-negra.com) does solid and soon became a gathering point To dig further into the history of the Mexican food. Right around the corner, for Malays, Indonesians from Java area, there’s also the nearby Malay Haji Lane is a rich hunting ground the same owners’ BluJaz Cafe 9 (11 River Valley Rd and merchants from the Middle5 East. Heritage Centre 2 (85 Sultan Gate, Beach Rd for off-beat designer labels, vintage Bali Ln, +65 6292 3800, www.blujaz.net) Essential Info The street names in the area reflect +65 6391 0450, www.malayheritage. clothing stores and a handful of is one of the best venues in town for Tanjong Rhu Flyover this: you’ll find yourself wandering org.sg), which tells the story of Highwayvibrant bars and cafés. There’s live music, local DJs and comedy down Arab Street, Kandahar Street Singapore’s place in the Malay world. WanderWonder 5 (65A Haji Ln, nights: the three floors are full of and Baghdad Street, which are lined There’s been an influx of new +65 6396 8621, warm, rootsy, experimental flavour.

18 19 Tanglin Rd Essential Info Nicoll

Kim Seng Rd River Valley Rd Raffles Blvd

Queensway Ave Hill St tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown Ganges Ave 4 Raffles Ave 5 6 Alexandra Rd

Havelock Rd Rd

Esplanade Dr Marina Bay

Zion Rd

Delta

Outram ECP

Tiong Bahru St Bayfront Ave Bayfront

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Tiong Bahru Rd Church Lim Liak St Rd Lower Eng Hoon St Chin Swee Rd St

Seng Poh Ln 5 3 Eng Jin Bukit Merah Seng Poh Rd Cross St 4 Watt St 7 Bahru Dr 1 Guan Chuan St Pagoda St Rd Smith St 2 Gardens 2 Mohamed Ln 1 8 Tiong Poh Rd Kampong 6 3 Trengganu St 5 by the Bay Delta 6 Club St 2 Chay Yan St Chin Swee Rd Club St Sago Ln 3 Ann Siang8 Rd Spring St South BridgeErskine Rd Rd 10 1 Keong Saik Rd Jin Bukit Merah Spring St Kreta Ayer Rd 7 Marina Blvd Henderson Rd Lower 4 9 Marina Mall Marina Gardens Neil Rd Kadayanallur St Bayfront Ave Maxwell Rd

Cantonment

Robinson Rd

Shenton Way

Alexandra Rd West Coast Highway Delta Rd Rd

Lower

Henderson Rd West Coast Keppel Rd Highway Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct

West Coast Highway

w eta G a s otn e S ya Imbiah Rd

Garden Ave Imbiah Imbiah Walk Rd Gateway Ave Siloso Rd

Rd 3 2 Imbiah Artillery Ave

Beach

4 view

Siloso Beach 5View Artillery Ave

7 Allanbrooke Rd 8

6 Coronation

Bukit Timah Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Rd Thomson Rd West Rd

Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation Peranakan Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

architecture Welcome Dunearn Rd Katong & Joo ChiatRd Aljunied Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave Welcome Farrer Rd East Coast Road,Sims Dr Joo Chiat Road Still rd Newton and Katong Laksa Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Area Guides Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd

5 Joo Chiat Terrace Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd

Area Guides Sims Ave

Rd 7 Newton Flyover Joo Chiat Ln Holland 7 Lor Ma Farrer Rd Stevens Rd mbong 3 Ceylon Rd 7 5

2 Shop mia Saga Jin Ru Holland Flyover 4 6 1 Roberts Ln Guillemard Rd 6 Lor Liput9 Holland Ave Jin Kelabu Asap Scotts Rd Jin Merah Taman Warna Kinte Rd Shop 8 Geylang Rd Race Course Ln 66 7 Teng Tong5 Rd 3 5 Jin Besar Cluny Hampshire Rd Lembu Rd Dunman Rd Rowell Rd Northumberland Rd Duku Rd Baboo Ln Tembeling Rd Hindoo Rd 4 Bukit 2 Dunman Rd 4

Rd Joo Chiat Rd Chander Rd 8 Holland Rd 4 Race Course Rd

Commonwealth Eat Marshall LnOnan Rd Timah Rd 2 Veerasamy Rd Ceylon Rd Cuff Rd Kampong Kapor Rd

Dempsey Rd Buffalo Rd Chitty Rd Eat Marshall Rd Serangoon Rd 328 Katong Laksa 3 Queensway 1 3 2 Rd Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Holland Napier Rd Upper Weld Rd Dempsey Rd Dickson Rd Tanjong 5 Ave Dunlop St Crawford St Jin Besar he Katong district is a microcosm of good local food – in particular, Scotts Rd Kallang Paya East Coast Rd 11 of what Singapore is all about. It’s its laksa (see Eat, p38). Four laksa 7 Rd Clive St T 1 Dempsey Rd a melting pot of cultures – from Malay stalls claim to be the original and/ 1 Sungei Rd Chin Mee Chin 6 1 Perak Rd and Indian to Chinese and Peranakan or the best; for starters, pull up a Katong Rd Katong & Joo Chiat 10 Confectionery Play 8 4 Harding Rd 5 (descendants of 17th-century Chinese plastic stool at corner favourite 328

2 Dempsey Rd Jin Sultan 9 immigrants who married into the local Katong Laksa 1 (51 East Coast Rd, Bideford Victoria St North Bridge Rd Jin Besar Play 2 Jin Loewen Rd communities) – and this ’hood is +65 9732 8163) and go from there. chef Damian D’Silva. Don’t miss the bridal bed and over 100 embroidered Rd Pinang Amber Rd 3 Aliwal St 1 heaping with heritage. It’s home to the Early morning wanderers should popular sambal buah keluak fried rice wedding shoes. Tours are conducted Tanglin Kandahar St Muscat St Sultan Gate

island’s largest remaining assemblageExpy Lebar also stop by for a traditional kaya (note: it’s spicy!). Also worth stopping by Yapp himself by appointment. For Rochor Rd Pahang St Bencoolen Link Paterson Rd Orchard Rd Arab St of Baba architecture; the junction of toast breakfast at Chin Mee Chin by is Cider Pit 4 (#01-03, 328Mountbatten Joo more Rd on local European-Asian heritage, 4 2 Bati Ln6 7 Ave Ophir Rd Haji Lane East Coast Road and Joo Chiat Road Confectionery 2 (204 East Coast Chiat Rd, +65 6440 0504), a no-frills, visit the Eurasian Heritage Centre 7 Baghdad3 St 9 6 Penang Rd 8 is the heart of Katong, and a leisurely Rd, +65 6345 0419), which has been laid-back pub with an extensive list of (139 Ceylon Rd, +65 6447 1578, Stay 8 1 10 Mountbatten Prinsep St Beach Rd Republic amble along the surrounding side serving up sweets for over 80 years. craft beers and ciders – flavours run www.eurasians.org.sg), which traces Middle Rd Nicoll Highway streets will reveal colourful shophouses Rdthe gamut from toffee apple to pear, the genealogy of prominent Eurasian

3 Stay

Commonwealth Grange Rd Grange Rd Republic adorned with Peranakan touches like There are pubs aplenty in Joo Chiat, strawberry and ginger. families and recounts the community’s handcrafted ceramic tiles and engraved but for something with a more local experience during the Japanese

Bencoolen St Ophir Rd statues of dragons, flowers and crabs. touch, try Immigrants 3 (467 Joo To learn more about the rich heritage Occupation in World War II. Finally,

Bras Basah Rd Essential Info You’ll also find sprawling bungalows Chiat Rd, +65 8511 7322, of the Peranakans, visit the Intan 5 Betel Box 7 (200 Joo Chiat Rd, +65 Waterloo St Victoria6 St built by Singapore’s elite Peranakan www.immigrants-gastrobar.com), (69 Joo Chiat Tce, +65 9338 2234, 6247 7340, betelbox.com), in addition 4 Queen St Blvd and Eurasian communities who could which pairs an impressive list of beers the-intan.com), a private museum to being a hostel and bistro, also North Bridge St afford what was then a seaside view. and spirits with tapas-style Peranakan filled with owner Alvin Yapp’s collection organises historical and food tours of River Valley Rd Katong is also known for its plethora and Eurasian dishes, courtesy of local of artefacts, including a century-old the neighbourhood. 5 Beach Rd Tanjong Rhu Flyover Highway 20 21 Essential Info

Tanglin Rd Nicoll

Kim Seng Rd River Valley Rd Raffles Blvd

Queensway Ave Hill St tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown Ganges Ave 4 Raffles Ave 5 6 Alexandra Rd

Havelock Rd Rd

Esplanade Dr Marina Bay

Zion Rd

Delta

Outram ECP

Tiong Bahru St Bayfront Ave Bayfront

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Tiong Bahru Rd Church Lim Liak St Rd Lower Eng Hoon St Chin Swee Rd St

Cantonment

Robinson Rd

Shenton Way

Alexandra Rd West Coast Highway Delta Rd Rd

Lower

Henderson Rd West Coast Keppel Rd Highway Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct

West Coast Highway

w eta G a s otn e S ya Imbiah Rd

Garden Ave Imbiah Imbiah Walk Rd Gateway Ave Siloso Rd

Rd 3 2 Imbiah Artillery Ave

Beach

4 view

Siloso Beach 5View Artillery Ave

7 Allanbrooke Rd 8

6 Coronation

Bukit Timah Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied

Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd 5

Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave

Rd Newton Flyover 7 1 Holland Lor Mambong Farrer Rd Stevens Rd 7 3 5 2 Little India mia Saga Jin Ru Holland Flyover 6 4 1 & Jalan Besar Roberts Ln 6 Welcome Guillemard Rd 6 Lor Liput9 Holland Ave 7 Jin Kelabu Asap Scotts Rd Taman WarnaJin Merah Little India & Jalan Besar Kinte Rd 8 Geylang Rd Race Course Ln Teng Tong Rd 3 55 Jin Besar Cluny Welcome Hampshir Lembu Rd Dunman Rd Serangoon Road, Race Course Road Rowell Rd Northumberland Rd Duku Rd e Rd Baboo Ln 8 8 Tembeling Rd and Jalan Besar’s coffee revival Bukit Hindoo Rd Dunman Rd

Rd 2 8 Area Guides Joo Chiat Rd Holland Rd 2 Chander Rd Commonwealth Race44 Course Rd Marshall LnOnan Rd 2 Timah Rd 3 Veerasamy Rd Ceylon Rd Cuff Rd Kampong Kapor Rd Dempsey Rd Chitty Rd Marshall Rd Buffalo Rd Serangoon Rd 6 Queensway Rd Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Holland Napier Rd Upp 7 Dempsey Rd Dick er Weld Rd Tanjong 5 1 Besar Tekka Centre

Area Guides 1 Ave Dunlop Stson Rd Crawford St Jin Scotts Rd Kallang Paya 11 East Coast Rd 4 7 Rd Clive St Dempsey Rd For something different, Mustard 4 (32 Race Course Rd, +65 6297 8422, 6 Sungei Rd Perak Rd 1 Shop Katong Rd 10 www.mustardsingapore.com) serves 8 4 Harding Rd Punjabi and Bengali fare; try the prawn 5

2 Dempsey Rd Shop Jin Sultan 9 creamy curry served in a coconut. Bideford Victoria St North Bridge Rd Jin Besar 2 Jin Loewen Rd Rd Pinang Amber Rd 3 Farther up along Serangoon Road Aliwal St 1

Tanglin is the 24-hour behemoth shopping Kandahar St Muscat St Sultan Gate Lebar Expy Lebar complex Mustafa Centre 5Rochor Rd Pahang St Bencoolen Link Paterson Rd Orchard Rd Arab St Mountbatten Rd (145 Syed Alwi Rd, +65 6295 5855, 4 2 Bati Ln 7 Ave

6 Eat www.mustafa.com.sg)7 , stretching Ophir Rd Haji Lane Baghdad3 St across the length of several blocks 9

Eat Penang Rd 8 8 1 10 Mountbatten andPrinsep offering St 14,000 sqm of just about Beach Rd Republic anything you3 Middlecould Rdbe looking for, Nicoll Highway Rd Commonwealth Grange Rd Enjoying a meal along with a rooftop restaurant, travel

Grange Rd agency, pharmacy and supermarket. Republic Try visiting at night, when it’s not Bencoolen St nder colonial rule, the area Start by strolling around the streets uncommon to see local shoppers Ophir Rd Bras Basah Rd Play Ueast of the Singapore River was that surround Tekka Centre 1 walking out with a new TV or pet food Muthu’s Curry designated a settlement for Indian (664 Buffalo Rd), an unmissable at 3am.Waterloo St Victoria6 St Play immigrants and workers, a legacy that landmark between Serangoon and 4 Queen St space on the second floor, and aBlvd full has been enshrined in the district’s Race Course Roads that has been a Meanwhile, at the easternNorth edge Bridge of St inventory of coffee gear in its ground more recent name, Little India. Today, go-to community resource – hawker the area is Jalan Besar (which literally floor café. it’s one ofRiver the most Valley distinctive Rd places centre, wet market, custom tailor means ‘large road’ in Malay), which 5 Beach Rd Tanjong Rhu Flyover in Singapore, a bustling, chaotic, shops, Indian fashion boutiques – for has become something of a café On theHighway main road, there’s also 7 sensory overload of people, shops, over half a century. While you’re here, and coffee hotspot in recent years. Suprette (383 Jln Besar, +65 6298 Stay traffic, colours, smells and tastes, don’t miss the opportunity to eat: While you’re in this neighbourhood, 8962, www.facebook.com/Suprette), make the pilgrimage to Chye Seng Tanglin Rd and largely unchanged for decades. To Race Course Road is full of some of a laid-back restaurant-bar inside the Stay Nicoll some extent it has retained its status the neighbourhood’s best options, Huat Hardware 6 (150 Tyrwhitt Rd, refurbished Kam Leng Hotel, or for Kimas Sengcultural Rd centre for the Indian and including the famous Banana Leaf +65 6396 0609, www.cshhcoffee. some no-frills local food, try Beach River Valley Rd Hindu community in Singapore – the Apolo 2 (54-58 Race Course Rd, com), the headquarters for local Third Road Scissor-Cut Curry Rice 8 majority are Tamils from South India – +65 6293 8682, thebananaleafapolo. Wave coffee pioneers Papa Palheta. Raffles(229 Blvd Jln Besar, +65 6292 3593), it Essential Info but there are other races and religions com), often tied with Muthu’s Curry Formerly a hardware store, the two- has a fair share of fans dedicated to in Little India. A day spent wandering 3 (138 Race Course Rd, +65 6392 storey building has been converted its hearty one-plate rice, meat and Queensway Ave its streets will confirm how rich and 1722, www.muthuscurry.com) down Hill St into a full-on coffee complex, housing vegetable combinations, drenched fascinating this area is. the block for the best fish-head curry. a roaster, coffee school and retail in a classic sloppy sweet curry gravy. tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown Ganges Ave 22 23 Essential Info 4 Raffles Ave 5 6 Alexandra Rd

Havelock Rd Rd

Esplanade Dr Marina Bay

Zion Rd

Delta

Outram ECP

Tiong Bahru St Bayfront Ave Bayfront

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Tiong Bahru Rd Church Lim Liak St Rd Lower Eng Hoon St Chin Swee Rd St

Cantonment

Robinson Rd

Shenton Way

Alexandra Rd West Coast Highway Delta Rd Rd

Lower

Henderson Rd West Coast Keppel Rd Highway Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct

West Coast Highway

w eta G a s otn e S ya Imbiah Rd

Garden Ave Imbiah Imbiah Walk Rd Gateway Ave Siloso Rd

Rd 3 2 Imbiah Artillery Ave

Beach

4 view

Siloso Beach 5View Artillery Ave

7 Allanbrooke Rd 8

6 Coronation

Bukit Timah Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied

Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd 5

Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave

Rd Newton Flyover 1 Holland Lor Ma Farrer Rd Stevens Rd 7 mbong 3 5 2 mia Saga Jin Ru Holland Flyover 4 1 Roberts Ln Guillemard Rd 6 Lor Liput9 Holland Ave Jin Kelabu Asap Scotts Rd Taman WarnaJin Merah Kinte Rd 8 2 Geylang Rd Race Course Ln Teng Tong Rd 4 Jin Besar Cluny Hampshire Rd Lembu Rd Dunman Rd Rowell Rd Northumberland Rd Duku Rd Baboo Ln 8 Tembeling Rd Bukit Hindoo Rd Dunman Rd 3 Rd Joo Chiat Rd Holland Rd Chander Rd Commonwealth Race5 Course Rd Marshall LnOnan Rd 2 Timah Rd 3 Veerasamy Rd Ceylon Rd Cuff Rd Kampong Kapor Rd Dempsey Rd Chitty Rd Marshall Rd Buffalo Rd Serangoon Rd 6 Queensway 1 Rd Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Holland Napier Rd Upper Weld Rd 7 Dempsey Rd Dickson Rd Tanjong 5 Ave Dunlop St Crawford St Jin Besar Scotts Rd Kallang Paya 11 East Coast Rd 7 4 7 Rd Clive St Dempsey Rd 6 8 Sungei Rd 6 1 Perak Rd Katong Rd 10

8 4 Harding Rd 5

2 Dempsey Rd Jin Sultan 9 Bideford Victoria St North Bridge Rd Jin Besar 2 Jin Loewen Rd Rd Pinang Amber Rd 3 Aliwal St 1

Tanglin Kandahar St Muscat St Sultan Gate Lebar Expy Lebar Rochor Rd Pahang St Bencoolen Link Paterson Rd Orchard Rd Arab St Mountbatten Rd 4 2 Bati Ln6 7 Ave Ophir Rd Haji Lane Baghdad3 St 7 9 Penang Rd 8 8 1 10 Mountbatten Prinsep St Beach Rd Republic 3 Middle Rd Nicoll Highway Rd

Commonwealth Grange Rd Grange Rd Republic

Bencoolen St Bras Basah Rd Ophir Rd Waterloo St Victoria6 St 4 Queen St Blvd

North Bridge St River Valley Rd 5 Beach Rd Tanjong Rhu Flyover Highway

Tanglin Rd Nicoll

Kim Seng Rd River Valley Rd Raf fles Blvd Marina Bay Sands Queensway Ave Hill St Welcome tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown Marina BayGanges Ave 4 4 5 Raffles Ave 6 7 Alexandra Rd 6 7

Esplanade Dr

Welcome Havelock Rd Hot waterfront architectureRd and attractions, Marina Bay

Zion Rd

Delta

Outram ECP

CBD venues and the MerlionTiong Bahru St Bayfront Ave Bayfront

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Tiong Bahru Rd Church Lim Liak St Rd Lower Eng Hoon St St

Chin Swee Rd Area Guides

Seng Poh Ln 5 3 Fullerton Rd Eng Jin Bukit Merah Seng Poh Rd Cross St Gardens by the Bay Watt St 4 7 Bahru Dr 1 Guan Chuan St Pagoda St Rd Smith St 2 2 Mohamed Ln Gardens 1 8 Tiong Poh Rd Kampong 6 3 Trengganu St 5 2 by the Bay Delta Chin Swee Rd 6 Club St 2 Chay Yan St Club St Sago Ln 3 Ann Siang8 Rd Spring St South BridgeErskine Rd Rd 10 1 Keong Saik Rd 3 Jin Bukit Merah Spring St Kreta Ayer Rd 1 7 Marina Blvd Henderson Rd Lower 4 9 Marina Mall Marina Gardens Neil Rd Kadayanallur St Bayfront Ave Maxwell Rd Area Guides Marina Bay Dr

Cantonment

Robinson Rd

Shenton Way

Alexandra Rd Delta Rd

West Coast Highway Shop Rd

Lower Shop

Henderson Rd West Coast Keppel Rd Highway Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct

ArtScience Museum Eat West Coast Highway Singapore Flyer n the 1970s, land reclamation was infinity pool is for hotel guests only, Eat Icarried out at Marina Bay, forming you can still indulge in venues like Sky owes its futuristic look to a grove of 8377, www.esplanade.com). It has its what has become one of the most on 57 and Ku De Ta (see Eat and Play, ‘Supertrees’ – giant vertical gardens, own mall, of course, with a selection architecturally exciting parts of town p38). On the ground floor, signs point planted in man-made palms up to of casual restaurants; adjacent, – the many skyscrapers support the the way to a glitzy mall, restaurants, 16 storeys in height. These mimic there’s also the open-air hawker island’s Central Business District theatre and casino complete with a their organic cousins by harnessing centre Makansutra Gluttons Bay 5 (CBD), but new mega-developments 7-tonne Swarovski chandelier. solar energy and collecting rainwater (8 Raffles Blvd, +65 6336 7025, including a hotel-and-entertainment for irrigation and fountain displays. www.makansutra.com) – a collection of Play

1 hub, a futuristic garden and a state- w etaThose G a s otnnot einterested S in cocktails Walkways lead to the largest the best food stalls handpicked from

Play ya of-the-artImbiah cruise Rd centre also make it or shopping can visit the on-site Supertree, a 50m-high behemoth around the city.

Garden Ave Imbiah a must-visitImbiah Walkdestination with plenty of ArtScience Museum 2 (10 Bayfront complete with a restaurant in its upper Rd attractions for visitors. Gateway Ave,Ave +65 6688 8868). Some say branches. There are also several From there, the pedestrianised Siloso Rd it looks like a hand, others a lotus; themed gardens showcasing the Marina Promenade is ideal for a

Rd Among the notable3 additions2 to everyone agrees that the Moshe best tropical horticulture and garden stroll or a waterside picnic – you can Imbiah Artillery Ave

Beach the skyline, the enormous Marina Safdie-designed museum’s striking artistry, along with two armadillo- head east towards the giant 165m Stay Bay Sands 1 (1 Bayfront Ave, +65 silhouette is instantly recognisable. shaped conservatories – the Flower observation wheel Singapore Flyer 4 view

6688 8868, www.marinabaysands.Siloso Beach 5View TheArtillery Ave galleries set inside the protruding Dome and the Cloud Forest, veiled in 6 (30 Raffles Ave, +65 6333 3311, Stay com) became an iconic part of the ‘petals’ feature large-scale touring mist and containing the world’s largest www.singaporeflyer.com), which also Singapore skyline before construction exhibitions that bridge art and science. indoor waterfall. has the ‘60s-themed hawker centre 7 7 was even complete in 2010. That’s Across the Allanbrookehighway Rd from MBS is 8 Singapore Food Trail (Lvl 1, largely due to the extraordinary another new skyline addition, the large- On the other side of the bay sit the 30 Raffles Ave, +65 6338 1328, Essential Info SkyPark, which looks like a ship sitting scale modern garden, Gardens by the dramatic, spiky durian domes of www.singaporefoodtrail.com.sg), atop three high-rise buildings – the Bay 3 (18 Marina Gardens Dr, +65 Singapore’s main performing arts specialising in classic Singaporean view from its 200m-high observation 6420 6848, www.gardensbythebay. centre, Esplanade – Theatres on the dishes – or continue west towards the

deck is just as surreal. Though the org.sg)6 , which opened mid-2012 and Bay 4 (1 Esplanade Dr, +65 6828 Merlion and into the heart of the CBD.

24 25 Essential Info Coronation

Bukit Timah Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied

Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd 5

Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave

Rd Newton Flyover 1 Holland Lor Ma Farrer Rd Stevens Rd 7 mbong 3 5 2 mia Saga Jin Ru Holland Flyover 4 1 Roberts Ln Guillemard Rd 6 Lor Liput9 Holland Ave Jin Kelabu Asap Scotts Rd Taman WarnaJin Merah Kinte Rd 8 2 Geylang Rd Race Course Ln Teng Tong Rd 4 Jin Besar Cluny Hampshire Rd Lembu Rd Dunman Rd Rowell Rd Northumberland Rd Duku Rd Baboo Ln 8 Tembeling Rd Bukit Hindoo Rd Dunman Rd 3 Rd Joo Chiat Rd Holland Rd Chander Rd Commonwealth Race5 Course Rd Marshall LnOnan Rd 2 Timah Rd 3 Veerasamy Rd Ceylon Rd Cuff Rd Kampong Kapor Rd Dempsey R Chitty Rd Marshall Rd d Buffalo Rd Serangoon Rd 6 Queensway 1 Rd Mountbatten Rd Haig Rd Holland Napier Rd Upper Weld Rd 7 Dempsey Rd Dickson Rd Tanjong 5 Ave Dunlop St Crawford St Jin Besar Scotts Rd Kallang Paya 11 East Coast Rd 7 4 7 Rd Clive St Dempsey Rd 6 8 Sungei Rd 6 1 Perak Rd Katong Rd 10

8 4 Harding Rd 5

2 Dempsey Rd Jin Sultan 9 Bideford Victoria St North Bridge Rd Jin Besar 2 Jin Pinang Loewen Rd Rd Amber Rd 3 Aliwal St 1

Commonwealth Grange Rd Grange Rd Republic

Bencoolen St Bras Basah Rd Ophir Rd Waterloo St Victoria6 St 4 Queen St Blvd

North Bridge St River Valley Rd 5 Beach Rd Tanjong Rhu Flyover Highway

Tanglin Rd Nicoll

Kim Seng Rd River Valley Rd Raffles Blvd

Queensway Ave Hill St tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown Ganges Ave 1 Raffles Ave Alexandra Rd 2

Havelock Rd Rd

Esplanade Dr Marina Bay

Zion Rd

Delta

Outram ECP

Tiong Bahru St Bayfront Ave Bayfront

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Tiong Bahru Rd Church Lim Liak St Rd Lower Eng Hoon St Chin Swee Rd St

Seng Poh Ln 5 3 Eng Jin Bukit Merah Seng Poh Rd Cross St 4 Watt St 7 Bahru Dr 1 Guan Chuan St Pagoda St Rd Smith St 2 Gardens 2 Mohamed Ln 1 8 Tiong Poh Rd Kampong 6 3 Trengganu St 5 4 by the Bay Delta Chin Swee Rd 6 Club St Chay Yan St Club St 3 Sago Ln Ann Siang8 Rd Spring St South BridgeErskine Rd Rd 10 Jin Bukit Merah Keong Saik Rd Spring St Kreta Ayer Rd 7 Marina Blvd Lower 5 Henderson Rd 4 9 Marina Mall Marina6 Gardens Neil Rd Kadayanallur St Bayfront Ave Maxwell Rd

Cantonment

Robinson Rd

Shenton Way

Alexandra Rd West Coast Highway Delta Rd Rd

Lower

Henderson Rd West Coast Keppel Rd Highway Telok Blangah Rd/Keppel Viaduct

West Coast Highway

Wave House

1 Welcome

1 w eta G a s otn e S ya Sentosa Imbiah Rd

Garden Ave Imbiah Imbiah Walk

Rd 7 Gateway Ave Welcome Resorts World Sentosa, Universal Studios, Siloso Rd 8

Rd Siloso Beach and Sentosa Cove 33 2 Imbiah 2 Artillery Ave Area Guides Hard Rock Hotel at Beach

Resorts World Sentosa 44 view

Siloso Beach5 5View Artillery Ave

Area Guides Sentosa 7 Tanjong Beach Club Allanbrooke Rd 8 Beach Walk, +65 571 0000, www. iflysingapore.com), the world’s largest indoor skydiving wind tunnel. For kids, Shop there’s the Port of Lost Wonder 5 Shop (54 Palawan Beach Walk, 1 800 6 736 8672, www.polw.com.sg), which features a pirate ship water playground and a ‘Curiosity Island’ for learning.

To make it a day by the beach, head to Tanjong Beach Club 6 (120 Tanjong Eat Beach Walk, +65 6270 1355, Eat www.tanjongbeachclub.com), a popular brunch spot for both families and beach-side ravers. For nourishment, nce a fishing village, Sentosa notably with the development of there’s an all-day menu available, or Oserved as a British military the hotel-and-entertainment hub just lounge by their pool sipping on fortress from the 1800s to 1967 of Resorts World Sentosa 1 (8 their signature cocktails. when it was known as Pulau Blakang Sentosa Gateway, +65 6577 8888, Play Mati (‘Island of Death from Behind’). In www.rwsentosa.com), which hosts At the other end of the island at the Play 1968 it became a holiday resort with Universal Studios Singapore (home recently developed Sentosa Cove, several man-made beaches, leading to several rollercoaster rides), the the action centres on the luxury hotel to further development of Singapore’s elaborate water theme park Adventure W Singapore – Sentosa Cove 7 HarbourFront precinct (the gateway Cove, and one of the world’s largest Universal Studios (21 Ocean Way, +65 6808 7288, to Sentosa, just 15 minutes from the oceanariums, the Marine Life Park – Singapore www.wsingaporesentosacove.com),

city centre and accessible by MRT), not to mention a casino, numerous which lures people in to drink cocktails Stay which now holds the country’s largest restaurants (including L’Atelier de Joel toboggan ride down a long, paved, and enjoy local DJs at Woo Bar or mall (Vivocity), biggest nightspot Robuchon, the Michelin-starred chef’s curving track, the popular simulated sink their teeth into prime beef at chic Stay complex (St James Power Station) Singapore outpost), swanky boutique surf experience at Wave House 3 steak grill Skirt. Next door is the F&B and only cable car system, connecting shops and six on-site hotels. (36 Siloso Beach Walk, +65 6377 complex Quayside Isle 8 (31 Ocean Sentosa’s Imbiah Lookout to the peak 3113, www.wavehousesentosa.com), Way, Sentosa Cove, +65 6887 3502, of Mount Faber. Aside from the RWS complex, there which also entices bikini-clad booty- www.quaysideisle.com), featuring 20 Essential Info are several fun beach-side adventure shakings with its lively DJ bar action, waterfront restaurant outlets, ranging In recent years, Sentosa has activities, such as the Sentosa Luge lo-fi poolside revelry and the chance from casual café Kith to alfresco undergone a facelift that has 2 (Imbiah Lookout, +65 6274 0472, to shoot the curl Singapore-style, and seafood bar Sabio by the Sea and fine- amped up its attractions – most www.sentosa.com.sg), a furious indoor skydiving at iFly 4 (43 Siloso dining stalwart Saint Pierre.

26 27 Essential Info Coronation

Bukit Timah Paya Lebar Rd Chancery Ln Upper Boon Keng Rd Rd Thomson Rd West Rd Wayang Satu Flyover Rd Coronation

Evans Rd Bukit Timah Rd Moulmein Rd

Dunearn Rd Rd Aljunied

Rd Thomson Rd Sims Ave

Farrer Rd Sims Dr Still rd Newton Changi Rd Boon Keng Rd Sims Ave Dunearn Rd Geylang Rd Balmoral Rd 5

Tessensohn Rd Holland Geylang Rd Rd Stevens Rd Serangoon Rd Sims Ave

8 4 Harding Rd 5

2 Dempsey Rd Jin Sultan 9 Bideford Victoria St North Bridge Rd Jin Besar 2 Jin Pi Loewen Rd Rd Amber Rd nang 3 Aliwal St 1

Commonwealth Grange Rd Grange Rd Republic

Bencoolen St Bras Basah Rd Ophir Rd Waterloo St Victoria6 St 4 Queen St Blvd

North Bridge St River Valley Rd 5 Beach Rd Tanjong Rhu Flyover Highway

Tanglin Rd Nicoll

Kim Seng Rd River Valley Rd Raffles Blvd

Queensway Ave Hill St tsdown Alexandra Rd Por Portsdown Ganges Ave 1 Raffles Ave Alexandra Rd 2

Zion Rd Havelock Rd Rd

Esplanade Dr Marina Bay

Delta

Outram ECP

Tiong Bahru Tiong Bahru Rd Bayfront Ave Bayfront Market Welcome

Kim Tian Rd Kim Pong Rd Pong Kim Tiong Bahru Rd Church Lim Liak St Tiong Bahru Rd Lower Eng Hoon St Chin Swee Rd St 55

Welcome Seng Poh Ln Coffee shop culture old and new, indie 3 Eng Jin Bukit Merah Seng Poh Rd Cross St

boutiques and pre-war art deco surroundings 4 Watt St 77 Bahru Dr 1 Guan Chuan St Area Guides Pagoda St Rd Smith St 2 Gardens 22 Mohamed Ln 11 8 Tiong Poh Rd 8 Kampong 66 3 Trengganu St 5 4 by the Bay Delta Central Expressway 6 Club St Chay Yan St Club St 3 Tiong Bahru Sago Ln Area Guides Ann Siang8 Rd Spring St South BridgeErskine Rd Rd 10 Keong Saik Rd Jin Bukit Merah Spring St Kreta Ayer Rd 7 Marina Blvd Lower 5 Henderson Rd 4 9 BooksActually Marina Mall Shop Marina6 Gardens Neil Rd Kadayanallur St Bayfront Ave

Shop Maxwell Rd

Public housing Dr

in Tiong Bahru Cantonment Eat Robinson Rd f there is one place that best reflects The charming neighbourhood is Eat ISingapore’s vibrant contrasts, Tiong perfect for strolling around during the Shenton Way Bahru would have to be it, with its day, with third-wave coffee joints and 40 Hands quirky shophouses, nostalgic hawker posh restaurants, such as 40 Hands Alexandra Rd stalls and plethora of sweet and 1 (#01-12, 78 Yong Siak St, +65 Delta Rd West Coast Highway savoury eateries yielding a fascinating 6225 8545, www.40handscoffee. a casual chic pizzeria with the help of sum-esque offerings at Tiong Bahru juxtaposition of old and new, local com), a graffiti-walled café producing some strategically-placed chalkboards. Pau (#02-18/19), a local institution. Rd and foreign, lost and found. Located speciality coffee, and Open Door Do try the kiam he (salted fish) thin Play

just over the Central Expressway Policy 2 (19 Yong Siak St, +65 6221 Lower crust pizza. Bincho 4 (#01-19, 78 Aside from the eating options, there’s Play (CTE) from Chinatown, the area was 9307, odpsingapore.com), offering Moh Guan Terrace, +65 6438 4567, the quirky independent bookstore established in the 1930s as one of a Modern European menu along with www.bincho.com.sg), which cleverly BooksActually 6 (9 Yong Siak St, Singapore’s first housing estates. an extended wine list, existing next to incorporates a trendy Japanese yakitori +65 6222 9195. booksactually.com), The pre-war low-rise apartment old-school canteens. joint at the back of a 70-year old which has a wide spread of titles, blocks – still well-preserved today – noodle stall (look for the original Hua whimsical stationery and tchotchkes, Henderson Rd

are an attractive mix of art deco and Several businesses have even begun Bee sign). During the day, Hua Bee is as well as several vintage clothing Stay Straits Settlement styles, with flat utilising old spaces as time-share still in action, while Bincho serves up boutiques, such as Flea and Trees 7 Keppel Rd West Coast rooftops, rounded balconies and spiral rentals, giving them new life at night, lunch and yakitori sets for dinner. (68 Seng Poh Ln, +65 8139 1133, Stay staircases. Originally an upper-class such as with Two Face Pizza & www.facebook.com/fleatrees), where Highwayhousing estate, it fell out of favour in Taproom 3 (#01-48, 56 Eng Hoon St, But to really get a slice of local life, you can peruse pre-loved clothing and the following decades after World War +65 6536 0024, www.twoface.sg), a must-visit is the long-standing two- furniture. More old-school treasures II, but a recent waveTelok of gentrification Blangah Rd/Keppelwhich as the Viaduct name suggests, has storey Tiong Bahru Market 5 (30 can also be uncovered at nana & bird Essential Info has filled the area with hip cafés and dual personalities: by day, it’s an aged Seng Poh Rd), which features a wet 8 (#01-02 Tiong Bahru Commons, boutiques, and the refurbished flats kopitiam with vendors selling yong market below and some of Singapore’s 79 Chay Yan St, +65 9117 0430, are now among the hippest housing tau foo (stuffed tofu) and mee pok best hawkers on the spacious, breezy nanaandbird.com), a hole-in-the-wall options for young homeowners. (yellow noodles). By night it becomes upper deck – try the selection of dim offering totes, accessories and frocks.

28 29 Essential Info

West Coast Highway w eta G a s otn e S

2 ya Imbiah Rd

Garden Ave Imbiah Imbiah Walk 1 Rd Gateway Ave Siloso Rd

Rd 5 7

Imbiah Artillery Ave

Beach 4 3

view

Siloso Beach View Artillery Ave

Allanbrooke Rd

6 8

Welcome The Heartlands Queenstown

The Heartlands is a term used to refer to Singapore’s suburban Welcome areas. Primarily residential areas, heartland housing estates Singapore’s first satellite town or satellite towns were developed by the government’s Housing Development Board (HDB). While they may be farther from the

typical tourism track of Marina Bay or Sentosa, they offer a Area Guides slice of local life. And thanks to Singapore’s well-planned urban development, each area is accessible by public transport (by MRT or bus), with built-in amenities nearby (including of course, a neighbourhood hawker centre and shopping mall). Area Guides Bishan Shop

Shop Bishan-Ang Mo Kio Park and Upper Thompson Road

Bishan-Ang Mo Kio Park

A leisurely day Eat of games in Eat Queenstown

nce a swampy village known as with several factory outlet malls, OBoh Beh Kang – meaning ‘the such as Anchorpoint Mall endless river’ because locals couldn’t (370 Alexandra Rd, +65 6475 2257, determine its source – Queenstown www.fraserscentrepointmalls.com), was given its name in 1953 in honour which hosts factory outlets of Play of Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation brands like Charles & Keith, Play ocated in north-central Singapore storey Harmony Centre (9A Bishan and developed by the Singapore G2000 and Cotton On with L and bordering MacRitchie Reservoir Street 14, +65 6478 4310, www. Improvement Trust (which later discounted prices, and Queensway to the west, Bishan is home to the harmonycentre.sg), offering exhibitions became HDB) as a testing ground Shopping Centre (1 Queensway, award-winning Bishan-Ang Mo Kio and programmes centred around for their public housing programme. www.queenswayshoppingcentre.com), Park (www.nparks.gov.sg), one of the Singapore’s Muslim community. The first housing estate, the Princess which specialises in sporting goods.

largest parks in Singapore, which acts Estate, was completed in 1956, Stay as both a natural flood plain and a Upper Thomson Road marks the followed by schools, police stations, Also in the area is Wessex Estate local recreation area. western edge of Bishan, and features hospitals, sports complexes and other along Portsdown Road, a residential Stay a number of popular local shop brands social facilities, and the district went area with colonial-style black and In the area are also several notible such as Fatboy’s The Burger Bar (187 down in history as Singapore’s first white bungalows, which now houses religious centres, including the Kong Upper Thomson Rd, +65 6252 8780, satellite town. several artist studios, which host Meng San Phor Kark See Monastry www.fatboys.sg) and Udders (246D the annual ArtWalk@Wessex Essential Info (88 Bright Hill Rd, +65 6849 5300, Upper Thomson Rd, +65 6452 0803, Though many of its original buildings (www.facebook.com/ArtWalkWessex) www.kmspks.org), Singapore’s largest www.udders.com.sg), which serves up and structures have since been and neighbourhood pubs such as Buddhist temple, and the An-Nahdhah local-inspired ice creams (including demolished, the area is now a Colbar (9A Whitchurch Rd, Mosque, which features the two- several pungent durian varieties). suburban commercial centre, +65 6779 4859).

30 31 Essential Info

Welcome Toa Payoh Green Singapore Get lost in the great Singaporean outdoors Welcome Housing estate with a town centre and park 3 Bikes abound in Bukit Timah Reserve Toa Payoh Pulau Ubin One of the largest patches of Town Park primary rainforest remaining Area Guides in Singapore, this reserve has four walking routes – try the unpaved forest trail, which goes by caves used by Japanese soldiers in World War II. Area Guides 4 Sungei Buloh Wetlands This wetland reserve of mangrove swamps, ponds and

secondary forest is home to 140 Shop species of birds. Visit during

Shop the early morning for the best bird-watching opportunities.

1 Pulau Ubin 5 MacRitchie Reservoir Toa Payoh Hub A reminder of old Singapore, Singapore’s oldest and most this boomerang-shaped island popular nature park is a haven off the northeast coast is for joggers, families and covered in trees and dotted weekend strollers. In addition Eat with beaches and characterful to the reservoir, a popular Eat old Malay houses. The best way attraction is the TreeTop to explore is by bike; bikes Walk, a 250-metre aerial free- are available 8am-6pm, and cost standing suspension bridge $3-$8 to rent. There are three spanning the two highest points cycling trails (on paved and in MacRitchie. Occasional free dirt roads), which will lead concerts are held here.

you past old fruit and rubber Play Dragon Playground plantations, mangrove swamps, 6 Singapore Botanic Gardens

Play water-filled quarry pits and old Potentially Singapore’s ocated in central Singapore (just for the estate – an element which wooden houses. first UNESCO World Heritage L south of Bishan), Toa Payoh means has continued in Singapore’s urban Site, housing the National ‘big swamp’ in Hokkien, referring to its development. 2 The Southern Ridges Orchid Garden and much more. state before HDB developed the area Stretching west from Mount Faber During weekends, tours to its into Singapore’s second satellite town. On the outskirts of the estate, you’ll near HarbourFront, this series rainforest patch are available,

A key difference with Queenstown still be able to find several nostalgic of parks includes Telok Blangah while concerts are often held Stay is the layout, which includes a town features from past eras, such as the Hill, HortPark and Kent Ridge at Symphony Lake. centre to serve as a focal point for iconic Dragon Playground at Blk 28 Park, connected by several Stay the area’s key lifestyle services – Toa Payoh Lorong 6 – one of the last pedestrian bridges offering 7 Kranji Countryside it’s now the site of the Toa Payoh MRT of its kind. Designed in 1979 by HDB great vistas, including the Located in northwestern station and Toa Payoh HDB Hub designer Khor Ean Ghee, these sand- undulating Henderson Waves. Singapore, this area is home to (www.toapayohshoppingmall.com). based playgrounds (featuring a range A Forest Walk also leads several local farms, including Essential Info of different tiled animal designs) were down to Labrador Park, which Bollywood Veggies and D’Kranji provides the perfect seaside Farm Resort, where you can Also notable is Toa Payoh Town Park popular throughout the ’80s, but were setting for a scenic skirmish learn the trade and spend the (originally designed as a landscaped largely phased out by the mid-’90s due with wartime history. night in rural bliss. garden), a mandated green area to safety concerns.

32 33 Essential Info

Shop Welcome

From futuristic malls to indie boutiques, Welcome Singapore's retail scene is the stuff of legend Area Guides Area Guides Charles & Keith Shop Shop Eat Eat

ION Orchard Jo Soh Hansel

irst-time visitors will be astonished found here in the 19th century. the title of ‘tallest vertical mall’ in While many visitors only make it as by the sheer amount of retail The first malls appeared back in Singapore, with a roof garden on levels far as the Orchard nexus, there are F Play opportunities on this tiny island, in the 1970s, and it’s been non-stop 11 and 12, complete with sculptures, more shopping areas chock-a-block particular the many ultra-modern development ever since – now the four- waterfalls, bamboo groves and with character in Chinatown, the Play shopping malls. While many would lane one-way street is flanked by tree- alfresco cocktail lounges. Arab Quarter and other further-flung, argue that shopping is a national lined walkways with malls side-by-side edgier locations as local designers pastime (along with eating), it’s clear along its entire 2.2km stretch. A visit to Orchard wouldn't be blossom on their own turf. Singapore’s that fashion is indeed a growing complete without passing through ION own fashion scene may not be big obsession, especially among the It’s here that you’ll find some of the Orchard (2 Orchard Turn, +65 6238 compared to the giants of Milan and

young, with a plethora of indie largest branches of international 8228, www.ionorchard.com), which Paris, but there’s a healthy number of Stay boutiques carrying homegrown brands labels, such as a three-storey claims to be the ‘centre of gravity’ of world-class design talents here. Among popping up in edgier locations, and Forever 21 at 313@Somerset the Singapore retail scene – and with these, Jo Soh is possibly the freshest, Stay pretty much any international fashion (313 Orchard Rd, +65 6496 9313, its jaw-dropping futuristic frontage, most fun and unpredictable designer label you desire found in many of the www.313somerset.com.sg), which cutting-edge design, and more than in Singapore. Her label Hansel (02-14 malls across the island. also houses Zara, Uniqlo and a 300 stores, it makes a good case. Mandarin Gallery, 333A Orchard Rd, smattering of local fashion retailers Apart from the obvious reason for +65 6836 5367, www.ilovehansel. Essential Info The nerve centre for shopping in selling cute shoes and more for a coming here – shopping – there are com) – named after her Jack Russell Singapore is along Orchard Road. The steal. Next door, Orchard Central some extra attractions such as the terrier – is a big hit in the Western road’s name was derived from the (181 Orchard Rd, +65 6238 1051, observation deck on the 56th floor and world, especially Australia. Her designs nutmeg, pepper and fruit plantations www.orchardcentral.com.sg) holds the ION Art gallery worth checking out. are quirky, vibrant and varied, often

34 35 Essential Info

Welcome Local buys Five products with Singaporean pride Welcome Makan Magnets Chapalang Tote Bag Area Guides Area Guides

Singlish Perpetual Calendar Shop Shop

Kan Cheong Spider Watch Eat

Eat Raoul 1 Kan Cheong Spider Watch – as pictured on one side of Designed by Farmstore for this canvas tote bag in various inspired by trivial topics – candles, for bespoke bags and belts, with outlets Singapore Souvenirs, this designs. But if you’re feeling instance, or pet camels. in Paragon, Raffles City and the watch’s simple design features more mysterious, just show off Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands. For the words ‘kan cheong’ and a the other side, which is plain Priscilla Shunmugam’s womenswear something made to order, try Kevin little spider – referring to black. www.naiise.com the Singlish term describing Play label Ong Shunmugam (B1-36 Hong Seah Bespoke (55B/C Boat Quay, +65 Leong Building, 16 Raffles Quay, 6223 6532 2018, www.kevinseah.com). Run someone who’s always anxious 4 Fancy Gem Biscuit Tote Bag Play (and thus, always looking at Show your love for these 4804, www.ongshunmugam.com) by bespoke tailor and designer Kevin www.farmstore.sg makes use of traditional batik fabrics Seah, custom-made suits are his the clock). popular Singapore snacks of old – little bite-sized biscuits to use in creating a range of Western specialty, but look for a range of ties, 2 and Asian silhouettes. Kimono-sleeved polo shirts, jeans and more. Singlish Perpetual Calendar with a dollop of bright- jumpsuits, suit jackets with kebaya- Created by Donn Koh of Farm, coloured icing on top – with this cheeky flip-styled calendar this silkscreened canvas tote

influenced lapels and high-waisted A seven per cent Goods & Services was inspired by Chinese almanac bag. www.wheniwasfour.com Stay peplum skirts in Javanese batik are Tax (GST) is charged on most items. calendars – as you flip to your among the unique offerings available. Foreign visitors can claim this back 5

Stay month, date and day, you get Makan Magnets (minus an administration fee) when a different combination of From The Little Drom Store, On the men’s side, FJ Benjamin leaving Singapore at Changi Airport, so auspicious notes for the day. this magnet series replicates launched Raoul (www.raoul.com) in hold on to your receipts (refund is not www.farmstore.sg the stall signs of some of the Singapore in 2002 as a men’s shirt applicable for those departing by land best hawker brands in town, Essential Info

label, branching out to womenswear or sea). And if shopping’s your main 3 Chapalang Tote Bag from Maxwell Hainanese Chicken in response to the demand. The goal, plan your trip around late May to ‘Chapalang’ in Singlish means Rice to Katong Laksa. www.thelittledromstore.com homegrown brand has since added July to get the best of bargains in the a collection of random things accessories to its stable, including annual Great Singapore Sale.

36 37 Essential Info

Maxwell Food

Eat Centre Welcome The fine art Discover why Singapore is one of the most of ordering Welcome exciting culinary destinations on the planet at a hawker

centre Area Guides

1 No reservations Find your table before you order. Note that table sharing and communal seating is the

Area Guides norm here, so there’ll be no ‘table for two’. You could have someone from the group sit at the table while others go to order, or do as locals Shop do and reserve (or 'chope') your seat by leaving a packet Shop of tissues. Take note of your table number before you head to a food stall to order.

2 Decisions, decisions Do a scout of all the stalls

to see what takes your fancy Eat according to menu and price.

Eat By all means order from more Boon Tat Street Chope! than one stall. It’s not a bad idea to check out the cleanliness rating on the ingaporeans love to eat – this Go hawker for hygiene reasons) in the early front of each stall. If you're Sis a country where food reigns 1980s that they became ubiquitous, still not sure, just pick the supreme and eating is a local pastime The starting point for Singaporean each neighbourhood having its own

one with the longest queue. Play (some say obsession), where locals cuisines is at the humble designated centre. There are around often greet each other not with ‘Hello’ neighbourhood hawker centre, where 120 hawker centres in Singapore, 3 The waiting game Play but instead ‘Makan already?’ (‘Have the food is fantastic and made to each sheltering anywhere from 50 to To place your order, join a you eaten yet?’). order; prices are rock-bottom (a dish 100 or more food stalls, often family- queue and wait for the cook’s plus drink costs about $5); and they’re run and each specialising in a few assistant to call you. It's hardly surprising given the sheer noisy, vibrant and bustling warrens of dishes, drinks or desserts. All stalls variety of food available, from a local life – an antidote to the sanitised, get a cleanliness rating (A to D) posted 4 Help yourself If the stall bears the sign

treasure trove of local dishes to a manicured side of Singapore. Hawker on the front of their stall. Stay myriad of international cuisines, with centres are a melting pot of taste ‘self-service’ it means you some of the world’s best fine-dining sensations, gathering a world of Among the best hawker centres are need to take your plate to Stay your table yourself. Other restaurants and venues boasting cuisines under one roof – Chinese, Maxwell Food Centre in Chinatown, stalls will ask for the number the names of some of the biggest Malay, Peranakan, Indian and Eurasian. Tekka Centre in Little India, Telok Ayer of your table and deliver the international celebrity chefs. And it’s Market (more commonly known as Lau

food to you. Essential Info all available in an array of eateries Hawker centres have been around Pa Sat) in the CBD, and Tiong Bahru to suit all budgets – from $2 hawker since the late 1950s, often attached Market (see Area Guides for details). 5 Cash on delivery fare to four-figure fine dining meals – to wet markets selling fresh produce. For some notes on hawker centre If it is being delivered, you ensuring that during your stay, you’ll But it wasn’t until the government etiquette and what to expect, see pay when your food arrives. never go hungry for long. clamped down on street food (mainly sidebar, right.

38 39 Essential Info

Welcome Welcome Area Guides Area Guides Tippling Club Shop Shop

Waku Ghin

The restaurant scene cooking and art at Restaurant André (41 Bukit Pasoh Rd, +65 6534 8880, Eat f you fancy a cooler temperature www.restaurantandre.com), a perennial Eat Iand some nicer digs, most of the placeholder in numerous ‘Best of Asia’ local cuisines can be found for slightly restaurant lists. higher prices in indoor food courts and mid-range restaurants around the Singapore’s penchant for top fine Burnt Ends island, but beyond that, Singapore’s dining and bold new tastes has Pollen restaurant scene has been making attracted plenty of international chefs headlines with some big names and as well. Be sure to book a table at inside the Flower Dome at Gardens 6688 8522, www.osteriamozza.com), Play amazing eating experiences. Catalunya (The Fullerton Pavilion, by the Bay, featuring a garden-inspired serving up perfectly-made pizzas for Play 82 Collyer Quay, +65 6534 0188, Mediterranean menu. Locally-based a pretty penny with a mozzarella bar Local chefs have gotten in on the www.catalunya.sg), where ceiling-high Brit Ryan Clift has upgraded his and other drool-worthy Italian classics, action, with chef Willin Low – the glass windows show off Marina Bay, acclaimed Tippling Club (38 Tanjong as well as acclaimed Japanese chef father of modern Singaporean, or and Spanish chef Alain Devahive Pagar Rd, +65 6475 2217, Tetsuya Wakuda’s only restaurant Mod-Sin, cuisine – and his recently Tolsa – who spent a decade at elBulli www. tipplingclub.com) to a sleek new outside of Australia, Waku Ghin

renovated Wild Rocket (10a Upper – presents tapas-focused Catalan CBD location offering tasting menus (Casino Lvl 2, +65 6688 8507, Stay Wilkie Rd, +65 6339 9448, www. cuisine; or at Burnt Ends (20 Teck Lim of his radical creations ($160/seven www.marinabaysands.com), where wildrocket.com.sg) at the forefront Rd, +65 6224 3933, www.burntends. courses), with a bar area serving up you can splurge $400 on a lavish and Stay of giving classic Singaporean dishes com.sg), where bearded Aussie Dave brilliant cocktails and an experimental memorable modern Japanese dinner a modern, multi-textured twist. Pynt cooks up all cuts of meat on his ‘food lab’ on the second floor. that’s as much about the food as it is Meanwhile, LG Han offers his take on custom-made adjustable grills. about the experience. And don’t forget Mod-Sin with fine-dining tasting menus British chef Jason Atherton has made For the highest concentration of the Singapore-inspired menu from the Essential Info at his Chinatown-area Labyrinth (5 Neil his mark on Singapore, setting up his celebrity chef imprints, head to Marina only local celeb, Justin Quek, at Sky Rd, +65 6223 4098, www.labyrinth. fine-dining bastion Pollen (#01-09 Bay Sands, which features an outpost on 57 (Tower 1, Lvl 57, +65 6688 com.sg); nearby, award-winning chef Flower Dome, 18 Marina Gardens Dr, of Iron Chef America’s Mario Batali’s 8857), featuring panoramic views from André Chiang continues to mix French +65 6604 9988, www.pollen.com.sg) Osteria Mozza (#B1-42/46, +65 the Skypark.

40 41 Essential Info

Play Welcome Welcome Ten strangely wonderful Singapore dishes When night falls, get ready to party with Welcome Welcome Bak Kut Teh Durian Singapore's booming bar and nightclub scene While its direct Nothing smells quite Area Guides translation (meat like a durian. No Area Guides bone tea) leaves a other fruit is as bit to be desired, pungent – it’s even this Chinese soup is far more banned on public transport in delicious than it sounds, Singapore. Yet despite all this, consisting of meaty pork ribs many adore the spiky-shelled Area Guides Area Guides simmered in a delicious broth fruit for its creamy texture and infused with star anise, rich, bittersweet flavour. cinnamon, fennel and garlic. Fish Head Curry Black Pepper Crab Singaporean fusion Shop Shop It’s difficult to go in action: Indian past the world-famous immigrants thriftily Shop Shop chilli crab, but plonked fish heads you’d be missing out – hoping to attract Chinese, if you didn’t also sample the who considered them to be black pepper crab, butter crab delicacies – into their spice- or crab bee hoon. rich gravies and created this now-iconic local dish. Eat Carrot Cake Eat No, this isn’t a Kaya Toast & Soft Eat Eat dessert – also known Boiled Eggs as chai tow kway, this This local breakfast savoury white-radish favourite is a little dish doesn’t actually contain like Singaporean any carrot, but is fried up with soldiers: delicious coconut jam 28HKS eggs, garlic and spring onions. is spread on toast to dip in the accompanying soft-boiled eggs. Play Play Chicken Rice rom chic, sofa-laden lounges to For something even more underground This simple dish Ondeh Ondeh secret alleyway bars and velvet- (literally), try Operation Dagger (7 Ann Play Play F sparks endless debate This popular Malay roped dance clubs, there’s plenty of Siang Hill), which can only be found by for local foodies sweet snack comes in action in Singapore after the sun descending down a cryptically-marked over which is the the form of bite- goes down. staircase to a dark, tiny basement bar best. The rice is cooked with sized glutinous rice space co-founded by Luke Whearty of chicken stock and paired with balls filled with palm sugar and For watering holes, take your pick the nearby Oxwell & Co – both among succulent poached chicken, with covered with shredded coconut. Stay from a mix of digs: chillout lounges, the cluster of other up-and-coming Stay chilli or soy on the side. casual pubs, glam hotel bars or drinking spots around Chinatown (see Scissors Cut Rice hidden cocktail bars. Among the Area Guide, p14). Stay Stay Laksa It’s not the rice Egg noodles, prawns, that’s cut – the best are 28HKS (28 Hongkong St, fishcake and cockles scissors are used +65 6533 2001, www.28hks.com), Also below ground is The Secret swim in a bowl of to cut everything marked only by the street number Mermaid (Basement, Ocean Financial Essential Info Essential Info spicy coconut broth. else, resulting in a familiar and giving off a speakeasy vibe; while Centre, 10 Collyer Quay, www. It’s creamy enough to temper snipping sound. Usually served the sophisticated bar at the The thesecretmermaid.com), along a the chilli's heat, but that may with curry on top, making it a Cufflink Club (6 Jiak Chuan Rd, www. busy MRT walkway in the CBD, which not stop the sweat from rolling. gooey, delicious mess. thecufflinkclub.com) concentrates on features plenty of hearty spirits (and shaking up the perfect tipple. doubles as a Japanese joint by day).

422 433 Essential Info Essential Info

Ku Dé Ta Welcome Welcome Area Guides

1-Altitude Area Guides Loof Shop Shop Eat when interest wanes. Each alcoholic Eat beverage is ‘listed’ and displayed on LCD screens, with prices updated every half-hour and daily specials. Zouk Further down the river lies Zouk (17 Above ground, the tropical heat cools try Loof (#03-07 Odeon Towers, 331 Jiak Kim St, +65 6738 2988, www. down after sunset, so evening tipples North Bridge Rd, +65 6338 8035, zoukclub.com), the grand dame of Play on breezy rooftop bars are particularly www.loof.com.sg), which overlooks the Singapore’s clubbing scene. Despite Play atmospheric and popular – if the Raffles Hotel and serves up Southeast some recurring eviction scares, it's weather is on your side. Among these, Asian-driven food and cocktails. All now in its third decade of pushing there’s of course the highest of them three regularly feature DJs and parties the boundaries of electronic dance all, 1-Altitude (Level 63, One Raffles pumping late into the night. music with their lineup of the biggest Beer Market Place, 1 Raffles Pl, +65 6438 0410, international and local DJs.

www.1-altitude.com) at 282m high, Stretching along the riverfront and Stay which features an unobstructed 360 canopied by space-age umbrellas, Newer clubs have also staked their Finally, if live music is more your degree view of the surrounding city the ever-popular Clarke Quay area claim on the nightlife scene, such speed, try Timbre @ The Substation Stay lights. Ku Dé Ta (Marina Bay Sands remains a popular choice if you like as Kyo (#B1-02 Keck Seng Tower, (45 Armenian St, +65 6338 8030, SkyPark, 10 Bayfront Ave, +65 6688 to bar hop furiously with everything 133 Cecil St, +65 6225 6001, www. www.timbregroup.asia), which features 7688, www.kudeta.com.sg), likewise, under one roof. Start off at the stock clubkyo.com), a stylish underground a rotating roster of local musicians. offers a stunning vantage point from market-inspired Beer Market (Blk 3B CBD-area nightclub featuring local DJs Though most places with live music Essential Info the top of Marina Bay Sands, with #01-17/02-02, 3B River Valley Rd, and art; and Bang Bang (Pan Pacific will keep things limited to acoustic an unbeatable view of the classic +65 9661 8283, www.beermarket. Singapore, 7 Raffles Blvd, +65 8127 cover songs, look out for Timbre’s Singapore skyline across the bay. com.sg), where the price of beer goes 2808, www.bangbang.sg), which hosts Singapore Originals night for a For something a bit more laidback, up when the demand is high, and dips hip hop, house and nu disco nights. showcase of original songwriting.

44 45 Essential Info

Stay Welcome

Find stylish accommodation to suit your Welcome circumstances Area Guides Area Guides Shop Shop New Majestic Hotel Matchbox

boutique properties – note, however, com), designed by HK-based interiors that room sizes can be small. wunderkind Andre Fu with a rooftop

bar, Lantern, and a flagship restaurant Eat Shophouse spaces in Little India have housed in the historic Clifford Pier. A Eat also been targeted by the boutique short walk away from Orchard’s hustle The Fullerton hotel wave. Among these, the Perak and bustle is Hotel Fort Canning Bay Hotel Hotel (12 Perak Rd, +65 6299 7733, (11 Canning Walk, +65 6559 6770, www.peraklodge.com) is ideal for www.hfcsingapore.com), housed in usiness is booming for the dorm, all housed in a three-storey soaking up local colour while offering the stately Colonial-era British Army hospitality industry – as conservation shophouse. For more a respite from the area’s hectic vibe. headquarters set in the centre of the B Play tourist numbers continue to rise, basic accomodations, look out Housed in a restored, Peranakan-style quiet park. new accommodation choices are for 5footway.inn (63 Pagoda St, building, it’s small but full of character. Play proliferating to cope with the influx. +65 6221 5832, www.5footwayinn. Then there’s the quirkiest hotel in Outside of the city centre, Sentosa From cosy hostels to stylish boutique com), named after the covered town, The Wanderlust (2 Dickson Rd, also offers a number of luxury hotels and lavish, five-star rooms, sidewalks commonly found outside of 6396 3322, www.wanderlusthotel. accomodations, including Capella Singapore has no lack of options to shophouses, which also has four- to com), which features some of the (1 The Knolls, Sentosa, +65 6377 suit every taste and budget. ten-bed dorm rooms with Wi-Fi. wackiest themed rooms on the island, 8888, capellahotels.com/singapore),

including ones set in a spaceship and which boasts seascape vistas, beach Stay If you’re traveling on a shoestring, Chinatown is also a hotspot for cosy a treehouse, making it fun for families access, spa and world-class luxury your best bet is Chinatown, where boutique hotels, with the New Majestic as well. service. Most Sentosa properties also Stay backpacker hostels abound. Matchbox Hotel (31-37 Bukit Pasoh Rd, +65 feature family-friendly amenities, such the Concept Hostel (39 Ann Siang Rd, 6511 4700, www. newmajestichotel. If money is no object, there are plenty as the Festive Hotel (39 Artillery Ave, +65 6423 0237, www.matchbox.sg), com), Hotel 1929 (50 Keong Saik Rd, of five-star brands dotted around +65 6577 8899, www.rwsentosa. takes its inspiration from Japanese +65 6347 1929, www.hotel1929.com), Marina Bay and Orchard Road – but com), which offers a Deluxe Family Essential Info capsule hotels and features sleeping and the Naumi Liora (55 Keong Saik for something with a bit of history, suite with bunk beds for the kids and pods designed like matchboxes. It has Rd, +65 6922 9000, www.naumiliora. you can’t go wrong with The Fullerton a doubled-bedded sofa housed in a a ladies-only 12-bed dorm, a two-bed com) all in the same area, transforming Bay Hotel (80 Collyer Quay, +65 separate sleeping chamber to keep private room and an 18-bed mixed their heritage shophouse units into chic 6333 8388, www. fullertonbayhotel. the entire family happy.

46 47 Essential Info

under $2. Most buses are equipped Essential info with air-conditioning. Welcome If you’re planning on using the Useful phone All the stuff you need to know (before you trains and buses a lot during your numbers Welcome visit, the Singapore Tourist Pass get lost)... (www.singaporetouristpass.com.sg) offers unlimited rides for $10/day. Singapore’s international MRT station Otherwise, pick up an EZ-Link card (a dialing code is +65. While Area Guides stored-value card), which can be used in Singapore and if you have on both trains and buses. Just tap the international roaming service card on the reader as you board and on your mobile, you don’t remember to tap out at your stop. EZ- have to press +65. Link cards can be purchased or topped

Area Guides Emergency up at MRT stations island-wide. Police 999 You can also hail a taxi along most Ambulance/Fire 995 roads, but note that vehicles are not allowed to stop on roads with painted General info Shop double yellow jagged lines, so it’s best Shop to get a cab from one of the numerous Tourist information taxi stands in Singapore – hotels and 1800 736 2000 shopping centre taxi stands are a Changi Airport flight sure bet. The flag-down fare starts information 1800 542 4422 at $3.40-$3.80, but be prepared for additional surcharges depending on Embassies

the time and place of pickup (tipping is Eat not required). Australia 25 Napier Rd Eat +65 6836 4100 Attitude & etiquette Getting around New Zealand 391a Orchard Rd The city’s major cab companies are: +65 6235 9966 In general, Singaporeans are friendly Singapore’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) Comfort CityCab (+65) 6552 1111 and helpful. However, race and religion system is a foolproof and efficient Premier Taxis (+65) 6476 8880 Medical services are usually not topics of debate. way to get around the island. Besides SMRT Taxis (+65) 6555 8888 being one of the cleanest transport Raffles Hospital Play Currency systems in the world, the MRT Taxis are abundant at the airport and a 585 North Bridge Rd, provides scenic views of Singapore’s trip to the city costs around $20-$25, +65 6311 1111 Play The currency used in Singapore is the heartland and some city areas, though plus surcharges. Several companies Singapore General Hospital Singapore dollar ($). SGD$1 is roughly you may want to avoid peak rush hours provide the airport transfer services, Outram Rd, equivalent to AU$0.80. for a less crowded ride. See map, which you can book even before you +65 6222 3322, 1800 321 3591 p51, or download your own from www. travel to Singapore, a half or full day Gleneagles Hospital Customs yoursingapore.com/getlost (under Plan in advance. Among them are Limo Taxi 6A Napier Rd, +65 6473 7222

your trip) to uncover the hidden gems (www.limomaxi.com) and Limousine Stay Credit cards To buy duty-free goods when entering behind the stops. Cab (www.limousinecab.com), best Singapore, you have to have been booked for groups of four and above.

Stay MasterCard 800 110 0113 away for at least two nights. You can’t Buses are also inexpensive, but American Express 1800 396 6000 bring cigarettes into Singapore, but require a bit of navigation. There are Language Visa 800 448 1250 you can buy them on the way out. routes all around Singapore, including There are no duty-free concessions less accessible areas and a handy late Singapore has four official languages Useful websites Essential Info on cigarettes or other tobacco items. night bus service called the Nite Owl, (English, Chinese, Malay and Tamil), You are not allowed to bring in chewing which operates on Fridays, Saturdays but pretty much everyone speaks YourSingapore.com gum, firecrackers or pirated DVDs and and the eve of Public Holidays. Fares English (or perhaps more accurately, TimeOutSingapore.com CDs. (www.customs.gov.sg). are distance-based and typically costs the local dialect Singlish – see p7).

48 49 Essential Info

cent Goods & Services Tax, denoted

by ++ on menus and bills. Welcome Visas

Welcome Nationals of most Western countries do not require a visa to visit, and if visiting as a tourist, will be given

‘social visit’ passes valid for up to Area Guides 30 days upon arrival. Please refer to the Immigration and Checkpoints Authority’s website (www.ica.gov.sg) for the most up-to-date information.

Area Guides Weather Signs at MRT stations Singapore’s weather is hot and humid Smoking with little variation throughout the year. The average daytime temperature Shop Smoking is not permitted on public is 31°C dropping to around 24°C at Shop transport, in museums, libraries, lifts, night. so if you want to weather the cinemas, supermarkets, department weather, dress accordingly. stores, hair salons, air-conditioned restaurants and government offices. Alfresco cafes have designated smoking areas. Smoking is permitted Passes & tours in specified rooms within some air- Eat conditioned pubs and nightspots, See Singapore Attractions Pass Eat but not in eating places. Only light up Powered by iVenture, this where it’s allowed, or risk receiving a credit card-style pass sizeable fine. includes entries to over 15 of Singapore’s favourite Tax refunds attractions(seesingaporepass. iventurecard.com). A 7 per cent Goods & Services Tax Play (GST) is charged on most items. Singapore Sightseeing

Play Pass (SSP) Foreign visitors can claim back the This full day touring pass GST when leaving from Changi Airport. provides unlimited hop-on-hop- You must spend a minimum amount off rides on land and on water of $100 (including GST) on purchases (ducktours.com.sg). from the same retailer in the same

day to qualify for a refund. You may The Original Singapore Walks Stay accumulate up to a maximum of three These walks work on a simple same-day receipts or invoices from the principle: to bring people Stay same retailer to meet this minimum into places most other tours purchase amount. don’t (journeys.com.sg).

Tipping The Real Singapore Tours Essential Info Activity-based tours covering Singaporeans don’t generally tip, as Singaporean culture, heritage, food, and much more(www. hotels and restaurants levy a 10 per betelboxtours.com). cent service charge on bills plus 7 per

50 51 Essential Info Little India Katong & Joo Chiat

Dempsey Hill

Singapore Little Bras Basah Black Book & Bugis

So you think you know Singapore? Think again. Time Out’s Little Black Book is your guide to this vibrant destination. Discover everything this strangely wonderful city-state has to offer. Tiong Bahru

Chinatown

4TH EDITION

Sentosa