By Carla Rzeszewski LIFE

aving lived and fine crystal, you’ll know you’ve arrived. opportunity to enjoy the revitalizing worked in the New York Get after it—it’s worth it. quality of a white or rosé clinking dining scene for over From the simplest option (Mexi- around in my tumbler, offering me a a decade I’ve become can ) to an antiquated beauty (dry super-chilled version of an already re- hyper-aware of the in- Sherry), the theme remains unchanged: freshing warm weather drink. Regard- Hherent thirst for “The Next New Thing.” chill it down. Make it work for a humid, ing which wine to choose, keep in mind The City is fueled by a race toward the thick afternoon while the drink leans on that we are going for the pleasure factor future, and sometimes, even the past in you a bit, inhibitions start to wane and here. Instead of asking for serious white terms of throwback trends. Rarely do the warm wind invites you to linger a Burgundy to retain its dignity amidst New Yorkers rest in the present, luxuriat- minute longer than you would otherwise. ninety-degree heat, opt for an easy-go- ing in the simplicity of a nameless wine ing white or rosé without pretense. Let enjoyed with friends. We post photos The go of the idea that wine is worthwhile of our trophy bottles on Instagram, we In general I’d argue that beer clamber after the newest speakeasy with aren’t as refreshing as a the most antiquated bitters, and straight-up cold one. But a Mi- The Michelada we proclaim our support for the most chelada strikes a balance between Fill a with ice obscure (a.k.a. “hipster”) wine regions. its spicy-tangy notes and the ulti- Add the juice of half a large But I’ve also spent some substantial mate refreshing beer: a Tecate. The 5 dashes Tapatío hot sauce work and living time in Hawai’i—and I drink typically includes a blend of 1 Tsp. Worcestershire Healthy pinch of salt recognize that sometimes a break is called lime juice, salt, hot sauce, tomato 7-8 oz Tecate (with remainder on side for. We need sunlight, we need to lose our juice or , beer (preferably in the can; for island purists, Hinano sense of time, to laugh with abandon and Mexican) and a selection of any could work well here) cheers so hard we crack our over-priced of the following: Worcestershire, Stir & drink with haste wine glasses. We need to remember how Maggi seasoning (a mixture of to simply enjoy—a principal that dove- spices similar to a chicken bouillon tails with the aloha lifestyle—and the cube) or Shoyu. There are hun- following beverages invite us to surrender dreds of recipes available online, to such hedonistic pleasure. but I strongly suggest starting with The funny thing is... they aren’t that a loose idea and honing your own No Pretense cool. Sure, you’ll find a few similar ideas personal recipe from there. I’m not on certain wine lists and random Mexi- in love with the tomato or Clam- can joint menus; but for the most part, ato aspect so I tend to amp up the I’ve enjoyed them in my Chinatown hot sauce and double down on the apartment with friends. lime and salt. It looks a little like Best Here’s my challenge: join me in this, at right: shedding any New York-style glitter and adopt an attitude appropriate for a Whites and Rosés barbeque with friends, a bonfire or a polo On Ice Served match with a buzz on. When all pretense I admit that I have been guilty of disappears and you find your sticky-bar- judging those who opt for a glass beque-sauce fingers clutching your wine of ice with their wine. Unfortu- Chilled glass like a chalice instead of a piece of nately I spoke before I had the

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JULIAN’Slife PICK The

“There is a certain sophistication to a mint julep,” says Walstrom. only if served in a proper wine glass, gracefully swirling and “Sophistication without being too pretentious.” Julian’s take on this classicthoughtfully is light, with sipping.a hint of mint,Serve showcasing these lovelies the rye over whiskey. plenty He of ice in doesn’ta tumbler do any muddling, for easy handling.allowing the sugar and mint to slowly come out as theFor drink whites, sits. lean toward lighter bodied wines such as crisp Chablis, a savory Grüner Veltliner, or even fruity Riesling. For INGREDIENTSRosé, the lighter the pink, the betterDIRECTIONS (think pale, herbal Provençal 4–5 orfresh salty mint Corsican leaves pinks), and drinkPut thequickly mint leavesenough in aso glass. the wine (Available at Haleiwa or any does not have a chance to succumbAdd simpleto dilution. syrup (ifYou’re using welcome. a cube farmers market. To keep mint from of sugar, crush against the leaves) turningShe brown,rr ywrap is incool a damp and rye whiskey. Top with ice and towel and seal in a plastic bag.) (And delicious in a Rebujia splash oft water,o) then roll into ¼ oz. simple syrup or another glass and back as many a cubeIn ofcase sugar you weren’t challengedtimes enough as preferred. by the Top idea off of with savory a Walstrombeer suggestsor wine makingon ice, the I now offersprig you of mint. the ultimate outsider: simpleSherry. syrup theTo nightconfirm, prior, useyes: it can range from a dry, white, salty equalFino parts or sugar Man and- water, LOCAL TAKE cookingzanilla slowly to on a the stove while Garnish with mango or pineapple. stirringnutty until Amontil it reaches- a slight boil. Remove from heat. Rebujito lado or Oloroso 2 oz.and whiskey all the or waybourbon 2.5 oz. Fino or Manzanilla Sherry (like Bulleit Rye or Templeton Rye 1.5 oz fresh squeezed lemon juice to motor-oil C Whiskey) 1 Tablespoon simple syrup black, syrupy Splash of water 1.5-2 oz. soda water M Pedro Ximenez. Y Ice toSherry fill is a style CM of wine herald- MY ing from the region of Jerez in southern Spain. It is always fortified, and it is aged in oak barrels anywhere CY from two to over a hundred years old, depending on CMY DAVE’Sthe PICKstyle being made. I would love to sit down at the K Thenext French polo match 75 with each of you and delve into the mind-blowing wine being made in Jerez, but in the “There’smean a nice time breeze let’s up focus at the onPolo the fields,” dry, un-oxidizedNewman attests. Fino “But or if you’re in theManzanilla sun, it can be(they really are warm. the sameSo I wanted style somethingof wine simply refreshing. The Frenchfrom 75 isdifferent actually named regions after within a WWI Jerez). cannon. It’s like the weapon— it’s an easyThe drink Spanish but it equivalentpacks a punch.” to our Newman iced-down makes hisbeverages version with hibiscus simple syrup, which provides a light flavor and elegant pink color to is the Rebujito. It is a Sherry cocktail that doesn’t rely on any the cocktail. It’s a striking beverage to hold on the sidelines. other spirit but instead stands alone with a simple mixer and

INGREDIENTScitrus. Serve in a highball over ice, garnished with a lemon or 1 oz.sprig (Dave’s of mint. choice You is canPlymouth) thank me later for introducing you to ¾ oz.the freshly umami squeezed flavor-explosion lemon juice that is Sherry. ½ oz. simpleCheers. syrup (Dave prefers two parts sugar to one part water. If making the hibiscus version,Carla prepare Rzeszewski your simple began syrup her with service 8–10 industry dried hibiscus career leaves, at Roy’s Kah- strainingana outin Lahaina when mix fifteen turns pink) years ago as a silverware polisher. She most Dashrecently of orange served bitters as Wine Director for April Bloomfield’s restaurants Ice toThe fill Spotted Pig, The Breslin and The John Dory Oyster Bar in New York City. She’s been featured in The Wall Street Journal and 3 oz. champagne (like Billecart Salmon) Wine Enthusiast, she’s crashed quite a few New York Times tasting Lemonpanels, garnish and has most recently been dubbed The Queen of Sherry by the Village Voice. She is currently three months into a road trip Furnishing Hawaiian homes across the U.S., searching for the perfect BLT. with elegant and sophisticated artistry, (one glorious piece at a time) since 2000.

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