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Oil Finishes Enhance Grain Contrast and Bring Depth and Warmth to Wood, Con- Tributing to the Aesthetic Gratifica- Tion We All Get from the Medium

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Oil Finishes Enhance Grain Contrast and Bring Depth and Warmth to Wood, Con- Tributing to the Aesthetic Gratifica- Tion We All Get from the Medium hen it comes to the magic moment of applying a W finish to a turned piece of wood, most turners reach for an oil-based product. Oil-based fin- ishes are well suited for turnings because they are relatively forgiv- ing in their behavior and the first coat can often be applied while the piece is on the lathe. Oil finishes enhance grain contrast and bring depth and warmth to wood, con- tributing to the aesthetic gratifica- tion we all get from the medium. But narrow your choices down to an “oil-based finish” and you will still be faced with a bewildering number of options. Add in the abundance of misleading informa- tion from finish manufacturers, and it is no wonder many turners Nice Turners settle on one or two options and use those without a lot of further thought. If a perfect finish existed, we would all be using it. The choice of finish is almost always a com- FINISH promise, and it is good to know the Last tradeoffs you are accepting. Types of oils Don McIvor To be suitable for finishing, oil should cure after it is applied to wood. Curing is a chemical reac- tion mediated by oxygen that results in the cross-linking of fatty acids in the oil. The result is a change in state from fluid to a solid polymer of interlinked molecules. But not all oils cure. In fact, oils can be classified into one of three groups: non-curing, semi-curing, and curing. Non-curing oils include mineral oil, peanut oil, and olive oil. Applied to wood, these oils remain viscous and can transfer to other surfaces (hands, tablecloth, furniture), will limit options for repair (they inhibit glue adhesion), and in the case of Oil finishes are forgiving to apply: pour (or wipe) them on and remove the excess oil before the natural oils, potentially turn rancid finish begins to cure. and impart undesirable odors or 22 American Woodturner February 2014 FEATURE Six coats of eight finishes applied to curly maple. (1) Boiled linseed oil (3) walnut oil and (6) Watco Danish Oil show little or no build and a matte surface. (2) Thinned tung oil and (4) polymerized tung oil are beginning to build a semi-gloss sheen. (7) Minwax Antique Oil Finish and (8) Formby’s Tung Oil Finish show a semi-gloss surface. (5) The shopmade thinned oil/varnish blend shows the most surface build and a gloss surface. flavors. Because they never harden, the grocery store moves these oils resistance; linseed oil offers the least. they provide no protection from into the non-curing category. These characteristics tend to accom- physical damage. Curing oils include linseed, tung, pany these oils as they are combined Semi-curing oils include corn, and walnut oil. Applied to a porous with other products or are processed sesame, soybean, safflower, and surface, all of these oils cure to a matte to improve their application and fin- sometimes walnut oil. In their finish. They also remain relatively soft ishing qualities. The greatest utility raw form, these oils partially cure in comparison to other finish options for these oils in the turner’s shop is and remain soft. Manufacturers such as varnish. that they constitute the basic ingre- incorporate some of these oils into dient for creating your own finish wood finishes with the addition of Types of oil finishes (see sidebar). drying agents, thinners, resins, or Raw oil heat treatment that speeds curing Raw oil is rarely applied to wood- Thinned oils and helps produce a harder finish. turnings because it cures slowly—on Thinning linseed, tung, or walnut oil This is also our first opportunity for a time scale of days- (walnut, tung) with solvent makes an easily applied confusion. Walnut oil is sometimes to-months (linseed). Raw oils do not wipe- or brush-on finish that cures semi-curing and sometimes a curing build a film surface on the wood, quickly. This approach to finishing oil. This is probably because the and therefore offer negligible pro- is simple, inexpensive, and produces concentration of the polyunsatu- tection against physical damage. a matte finish (Photo 1). Successive rated fats that moderate curing may Linseed oil imparts a yellow tone coats are easy to apply, and waiting vary depending on growing condi- and will continue to yellow with age. about a day between coats assures tions and processing. Walnut oil for Tung oil imparts some color to wood adequate curing between applica- finishing should contain enough but less than linseed oil, and its tions. This is my preference for pro- of the fats to make it a curing oil. color changes little with age. Walnut duction pieces, and I often apply Second, when these oils are destined oil imparts the least color and it is only one coat of finish with the for the grocery store, manufacturers non-yellowing. Tung oil provides understanding the user will soon include additives to inhibit curing some water resistance after about six need to oil the piece if the object is to extend shelf life. Purchasing from coats; walnut oil offers little water used for food service. woodturner.org 23 After ten years and about a dozen maintenance coats of thinned tung Five coats of an oil/varnish blend and a surface film has begun to build a oil, my fruitwood rolling pin remains a pleasure to use. semi-gloss surface on this quilted-walnut bowl. The first coat of thinned oil can be will build a surface film, and is well in the varnish, and the type of oil applied on the lathe. A shop towel suited for turned objects. Mahoney’s each manufacturer uses. Some of held against the rotating work will Utility Finish is a walnut oil product these products will build a surface generate heat to speed the rate of that appears to be at least partially film after numerous applications, curing. I often follow the oil with a polymerized during the manufac- while others show little or no build paste wax. This provides luster and turing process, improving its curing after five applications. Imaginative modest protection for the piece as it rate. Lee Valley markets polymerized marketing creates a lot of confu- is handled in a gallery or craft show. tung oil as well as raw walnut oil, sion in this and the wiping-varnish Be aware wax can trap moisture and and provides directions for heating categories. Danish oil contains no encourage mold. the latter prior to application to Danes, but is a blend of linseed oil speed curing. and varnish. Lax regulation permits Boiled linseed oil a product to be labeled “tung oil Once upon a time, linseed oil was Oil/varnish blend finish” (for example), yet contain no boiled to hasten its curing rate. Manufacturers create varnish by tung oil at all. These days, manufacturers blend heating oil combined with a syn- linseed oil with metallic driers to thetic resin. The resulting product Wiping varnish achieve the same objective, retain- is no longer oil, but a new substance Finish guru Bob Flexner defined ing the name despite the absence of with its own properties that make this category of finish to distin- boiling. More coats can be applied it one of the most durable finishes, guish products combining varnish in a far shorter time, but the result but also challenging to apply well. and thinner. The products are not is still a soft finish that offers negli- Manufacturers blend oil with varnish truly oils, but are often marketed gible water resistance. to capture some of the beneficial as such. Products in this category properties of each. Minwax’s Antique include Formby’s Tung Oil Finish, Polymerized oil Oil Finish, Tung Oil Finish, and Waterlox Original Formula, and The curing process can be hastened Watco’s and Deft’s Danish Oil fin- General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish. by heating raw oil to about 500˚F ishes are four readily available oil/ These finishes build a surface film, (260˚C) in the absence of oxygen varnish blends. creating a satin or glossy surface. to produce polymerized oil. So Most of these products allow sub- If as a turner you wish to achieve a modified, these oils look and behave sequent applications in eight to 24 varnished look, this is a good way to more like varnish than raw oil. hours. Each gives a slightly different go. While glossy surfaces may attract Polymerized oil cures quickly, can appearance to the finished wood, buyers, they create a maintenance be thinned for easier application, probably due to the quantity of resins challenge for non-woodworkers 24 American Woodturner February 2014 FEATURE when the film surface becomes natural bark inclusions or a bark oil, to oil/varnish and polymerized worn or damaged, and worn items rim? Does the wood contain spalt oil, to wiping varnish. may get relegated to the next that will soak up finish at a differ- Domestic or tropical hardwood? yard sale. ent rate? Does the wood have large Many tropical hardwoods contain As with oil/varnish blends, the pores like oak? Getting an even non-curing oils that foil our fin- manufacturers’ goal is to make finish on a porous surface is a chal- ishes, inhibiting curing and leaving these products easier than varnish lenge, especially with a film-build- the wood surface gummy. The alone to apply. On non-horizontal ing finish. I tend to reach for an oil/ best alternative may be no applied surfaces, these finishes need a thin varnish blend in this situation for finish. Many of these species can application to prevent sags or drips, a little more luster than thinned be brought to a beautiful natural thus requiring more applications oil and easy application over bark finish simply by buffing.
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