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Destination Kenya Few Destinations in the World Can Evoke Such Powerful Imagery As Kenya, One of East Africa’S Premier Safari Destinations

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Destination Kenya Few Destinations in the World Can Evoke Such Powerful Imagery As Kenya, One of East Africa’S Premier Safari Destinations © Lonely Planet Publications 12 Destination Kenya Few destinations in the world can evoke such powerful imagery as Kenya, one of East Africa’s premier safari destinations. Indeed, the acacia-dotted savannas of Kenya are inhabited by classic African animals, from towering elephants and prancing gazelles to prides of lions and stalking leopards. The country also plays host to the annual wildebeest migration, the largest single movement of herd animals on the planet. However, what makes Kenya truly stand out as a travel destination is the vast palette of landscapes that comprise this visually stunning country. While the flaunted image of the savannas of Masai Mara is perhaps the single key selling point for Kenya’s tourist industry, intrepid travellers can also explore the barren expanses of the Rift Valley, the glacial ridges of Mt Kenya and the beaches of the Swahili coast. This rich diversity of quintes- sential African environments presents opportunities for hiking, trekking, diving, sailing and so much more. But to simply focus on Kenya’s wildlife and nature is to ignore the people that make this country so dynamic. Kenya is a thriving multi- cultural country with a wide cross-section of everything that is classic and contemporary Africa. Everyday life brings together traditional tribes and urban families, ancient customs and modern sensibilities. And, while much of East Africa has suffered from bitter feuds between divided eth- nic groups, Kenya has usually been regarded as an island of stability in a troubled region. FAST FACTS Yet, following the disputed elections of 27 December 2007, Kenya was Population: 37.9 million crippled by a wave of violence that scarred the national conscience, and Total fertility rate: 4.7 threatened to collapse the country’s lucrative tourism industry. While in- children per woman cumbent President Mwai Kibaki and opposition leader Raila Odinga debated the accuracy of the voting results, the world watched in horror as conflict Population growth rate: erupted in the streets. In a few short weeks, a reported 1000 Kenyans were 2.7% brutally killed, another 350,000 were internally displaced, and the image of HIV/AIDS adult preva- Kenya as a safe and peaceful destination was instantaneously shattered. lence rate: 6.7% In February 2008, former UN Secretary-General Kofi Annan brokered a Workforce engaged in power-sharing agreement between the warring factions, and in April 2008, agriculture: 75% President Kibaki named a grand coalition cabinet of 41 ministers, which Highest point: Mt Kenya included the newly elected Prime Minister Odinga and his two deputies. At 5199m the time of writing, it was difficult to say if the peace accords will weather the impending storm of change. However, it is within the nature of the Lowest point: Indian Kenyan people to be optimistic. Ocean 0m While internal political life is at times tumultuous, it seems that Kenyans Land boundaries: 3477km retain an innate self-confidence, a belief that things are improving, and a Oldest town: Lamu (estab- desire to see their homeland take a prominent place on the world stage. lished 15th century) Indeed, now that Kenya’s ‘native son’ sits in the White House, perhaps this vision isn’t so grandiose after all. Furthermore, Kenya is a regional Number of times Kenya heavy hitter, especially since it has finally joined hands with Tanzania and has not won the Olympic Uganda in a long-sought-after customs union. In addition to paving the steeplechase: none way for full revival of the defunct East African Community (EAC), the customs union has been extremely beneficial for travellers, who can now pass relatively unhindered between these neighbouring countries. Kenya may be a somewhat more intimidating destination than it once was, but it remains one of the undisputed highlights of Africa. Check your inhibitions, ignore the hype, bring your sense of adventure, and get ready for some truly inspiring and life-changing travel. © Lonely Planet Publications 13 Getting Started Planning a trip to Kenya is a pleasure in itself: the country is so versatile that it’s virtually a blank canvas, catering equally for thrill-seekers and sun- seekers, budget backpackers and high-end high rollers, those who like it tough and those who just want to get going. Whatever you want to do here, you’ll discover that it’s pretty straightforward to sort yourself out on the ground, and, in many cases, more reliable than trying to make advance plans. WHEN TO GO The main tourist season is in January and February, when the weather is See Climate Charts for hottest and driest. At this time, the animals in the wildlife parks tend to more information ( p325 ). congregate more around the watercourses, making them easier to spot. However, the parks can get crowded and rates for accommodation soar – also make sure you avoid Christmas and Easter unless you want to pay much higher prices. From June to October, the annual wildebeest migration takes place, with thousands of animals streaming into the Masai Mara National Reserve from the Serengeti. During the long rains (the low season, spanning from March to the end of May) things are much quieter. Wildlife is harder to spot and mosquitoes are rife, a combination that keeps most tourists away. See also the Directory ( p329 ) for information on festivals and events. COSTS & MONEY Travelling in Kenya can cost as much or as little as you like, depending on what kind of standards you’re happy with. In general, for the midrange DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT… Checking the latest visa situation (p338 ) and government travel advisories ( p326 ) Vaccination card, insect repellent and malaria prophylaxis Learning at least a few basic phrases in Kiswahili Antidiarrhoeal medicine, in case you get a bad dose of the runs Sunblock and a hat, so you don’t get cooked by the tropical sun Clothes that you don’t mind getting absolutely filthy or wet A swimsuit and a beach towel A poncho for rainy days and wet boat trips A pair of river sandals or reef walkers and sturdy hiking boots An alarm clock for catching early-morning matatus A waterproof, windproof jacket and warm layers for highland hiking and camping A flashlight (torch) Binoculars and a field guide Miscellaneous necessities: compact umbrella, padlock, matches, pocket knife An appetite for fresh fruit A thirst for cold lager Your sense of adventure 14 GETTING STARTED •• Travel Responsibly lonelyplanet.com traveller staying in small hotels with a decent level of comfort, eating the occasional Western meal, using matatus and taxis, taking in the odd mu- seum, and treating yourself to a beer in the evening should cost around KSh3500 per day. Budget travellers could get this down to as little as HOW MUCH? KSh1000 by foregoing private bathrooms, eating in Kenyan canteens, walk- Local matatu ride KSh25 ing or taking local buses and skipping the booze, while top-end types can find themselves paying anything from US$300 upwards for a taste of the Plate of stew/biriani/ high life. Accommodation is the biggest single expense, and staying in pilau KSh150 Nairobi or on the coast will push costs up sharply (see p317 ). Large juice KSh75 On top of this, you’ll probably want to allow some extra cash for more Pair of kangas KSh500 expensive tourist activities such as trekking, diving and other excursions. The biggest outlay for most visitors will be visiting the national parks, Taxi around town KSh600 whether on a safari or independently. For more information, see the Safaris chapter, p65 . TRAVEL RESPONSIBLY When backpackers first started blazing the hippie trail across the old Silk Road during the 1960s and 1970s, sustainability was an implicit concept that few people needed to give much thought. Travel at the time was nearly always slow, overland and utterly dependent on local economies. In fact, Nairobi was a famous staging point on the Cape to Cairo trail (which gave birth to the actual Thorn Tree that inspired Lonely Planet’s online community). But things change, and sometimes in dramatic ways. Today, travel is one of the world’s fastest-growing industries, and in recent years Kenya has enjoyed higher tourism growth rates than many European and Asian destinations. Even in light of the 2007 election violence, Kenya maintains a relatively positive image abroad as one of the safest safari destinations in Africa. The continuous growth of the travel industry has brought incredible economic success to Kenya. However, this growth has also placed enor- mous stress on both the environment and local cultures, and threatens to destroy the very destinations that tourists are seeking out. For instance, national parks have suffered rapid erosion due to errant 4WD vehicles, and hot showers at bush hotels are a strain on already scant local resources. In recent years, the term ‘sustainable tourism’ has emerged as a buzz word in the industry, though few people have a clear idea of exactly what this HOW TO TRAVEL GREEN IN KENYA Here are some tips for protecting the environment in Kenya and beyond: Recycle – ask at your hotel if they have a recycling system in place. Pick up rubbish – while walking along a beach or a trail, pick up any rubbish you see as your actions might inspire others to do the same. Respect the land – stick to the trails as they lessen the erosion caused by human transit. Likewise, don’t damage plants, and always observe wildlife from a distance. Respect the sea – always follow the basic snorkel and scuba guidelines, keep garbage out of the water, and remember not to eat or purchase endangered or undersized seafood. Don’t feed animals – feeding the animals interferes with their natural diets and makes them susceptible to bacteria transferred by humans or pesticides contained within fruit.
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