Amsterdam Amsterdam Sport and fitness— —Sport and fitness

Warmer months Colder months Year-round Hot in the city Just chill Perennial favourites Sport and fitness

— Active city te find ou e R — r Don’t want to drive? Mokum can provide a skipper

The people of Amsterdam aren’t averse to exercise – how could they be in a city that’s as renowned for its bicycle culture as it is for its canals? These waterways play a key part Sporting events High45, De Plantage in the outdoor culture, Gonna make you sweat whether it’s cycling 01 Dam tot Damloop: along them or simply This annual 16km If the thought of a 45-minute enjoying the passing road race sees 50,000 fitness class doesn’t seem all that scenery from a boat as participants run from daunting, think again. High45 is Amsterdam through the tough: whole-body tough, enough you float peacefully down IJtunnel and the Dutch to make you want to tell the very them. During the colder Flevopark, Indische Buurt countryside to Zaandam. nice and encouraging instructor to months, when the water Activity centre damloop.nl kindly go away. sometimes freezes, you’re 02 Sail Amsterdam: Barbara den Bak opened this likely to spot the locals Flevopark is wedged between the Every five years more than sleek studio in 2016 and bases all lacing up their skates Indische Buurt neighbourhood 600 sailing ships from of her classes on the principles of and zipping across the and Nieuwe Diep Lake. Dutch across the globe drop high-intensity interval training. ice (if the weather fails to conservationist and botanist anchor in the IJ. Festivities Class sizes are small, single passes Jac P Thijsse led the charge to take place both ashore are available and we can guarantee co-operate you can still Boat hire, citywide develop the park to service the Ice-skating, citywide and onboard the ships. you’ll feel fantastic post-workout. participate at a range of Drift away city’s growing population; it was Blade runners sail.nl You might just have to wait for the artificial rinks). completed in 1931 for the Jewish 03 Amsterdam Marathon: waves of nausea to subside first. If you prefer your During the warmer months, rent community, then bought by the city As soon as the layer of ice on top With 16,500 runners, 101 Weesperstraat, 1018 VN exercise to be a little a boat, pack a picnic and float in 1956 and opened to the public. of ditches, canals and lakes is firm, the annual Amsterdam 131 (0)20 890 3158 more traditional there towards the harbour or Amstel Today it’s favoured by runners Amsterdammers get their skates Marathon tours the Eastern high45.com are also gyms (some River. No licence is required for and in warm weather the outdoor on. Not every winter is cold enough Docklands, Zuid, Oud-West rentals, just a sober captain over 18 pool opens and the lake is perfect nowadays, so from November to and a pretty stretch of the more punishing than I don’t know what who can handle the intersections. for watersports. Barbecues are February there’s an artificial rink Amstel River. others), pools and tennis you’re talking Mokum Boats rental locations permitted in designated areas and in front of the Rijksmuseum, with tcsamsterdammarathon.nl about, this is courts where you can include Centrum, Amstel and Oost. the former watermill now houses skate rental and a café serving hot 04 Amsterdam City Swim: light as a feather get your heart rate up, or For a snack, dock along the quays a distillery and tasting room. chocolate and glühwein. More than 2,000 swimmers failing that check out our at Café Hesp, Hannekes Boom or Kramatweg, 1095 KD Jaap Edenbaan in the east has a dive into the canals in recommendations for a Waterkant. Or for a swim, head flevopark.nl; nwediep.nl 400-metre loop open in the winter September to swim 2,000 scenic run or two. And south for the widened section of and an indoor rink all year round. metres, raising funds for when you’re done, refresh the Amstel in front of the tHuis aan During sub-zero temperatures, Amyotrophic lateral de Amstel café. Amsterdamse Bosbaan in the south sclerosis. Even Queen and revive at our selection Mokum Boats: Centrum, 351 is the place to skate. Máxima has taken part. of grooming hotspots and Nassaukade, 1053 LZ; Amstel, Rijksmuseum: 5 Museumplein, 1071 amsterdamcityswim.nl spa destinations. You’ll 1 Schollenbrugstraat, 1091 EX; DJ; iceamsterdam.nl have earned it. Oost, 65 Mauritskade, 1092 AD Jaap Edenbaan: 64 Radioweg, mokumbootverhuur.nl 1098 NJ; jaapeden.nl

122 123 Amsterdam Amsterdam Sport and fitness— —Sport and fitness

Grooming Tennisclub IJburg, IJburg Looking good Spa Zuiver, Zuideramstel Hi, court Bare necessities

This club is a 30-minute cycle ride To work out the niggles of a long (by Amsterdam standards it may as flight or just a long day, head south well be halfway to Germany) but to Spa Zuiver on the border of if you fancy a game while in town, the Amsterdamse Bos nature the mvrdv-designed Tennisclub in reserve. There’s a seemingly endless IJburg is worth the pedal. array of pools, tubs and saunas The ruby-red clubhouse with to dip in and out of, including the a café and changing rooms looks outdoor spa and 40-metre lap pool out over pristine waters and its surrounded by forest. roof doubles as a grandstand for Fellow bathers tend to be nude the 10 clay courts. This public but if you’re not keen on that idea, sporting complex was developed to swimwear is permitted on Tuesdays encourage Amsterdammers out to and Thursdays. There are also the far-eastern neighbourhood, so Zuiderbad, Oud-Zuid squash and tennis courts, as visitors don’t need a membership Decorative pool well as a catering service and and it’s open whatever the season. 31 hotel rooms. 1 Zandzeggestraat, 1087 SL The art deco Zuiderbad, which 8 Koenenkade, 1081 KH 131 (0)20 778 1671 abuts the Rijksmuseum, was 131 (0)20 301 0700 tennisverenigingijburg.nl designed as an indoor driving zuiveramsterdam.nl school by Jonas Ingenohl in 1897. It didn’t last long and soon became a showroom, then in 1912 opened The Barber, Jordaan Football: Ajax as a swimming pool. Progressive Direct male for its time, it had electric lighting, For those who concern central-heating and a sand-based Avail yourself of a trim and a themselves with such things, water-filtration system in the haircut the classic way in this Dutch football has a mystical basement, all of which still function. smart barber’s hidden on a cross allure – and no team better While not the best spot for street of trendy Haarlemmerdijk. represents this enchantment serious swimmers, its mosaic tiling A full menu of treatments covers than Ajax (see page 77). The and brass fixtures make a dramatic everything from the traditional hot- club’s legend was sealed in the setting for a few relaxing laps. towel and straight-razor shave to 1970s when, with Johan Cruyff, 26 Hobbemastraat, 1071 ZC The Connery, the shop’s amusingly they won the European Cup 131 (0)20 252 1390 monickered head shave for the three seasons in a row. amsterdam.nl/sport/waar-sporten/ follically challenged. If you want to go and watch zwembaden/zuiderbad As well as offering its own range the latest incarnation of this of beard products, aftershaves and fabled team, tickets can be oils, The Barber carries a selection bought online and collected ior serv Akasha, Oud-Zuid Wild Romance, Centrum from the likes of Hudson Made, at the ground (which can be n ic u e Underground club Pride and grooming Mr Natty and oak. Oh, and coffee, reached by metro or bus). And J — The club also beer or whiskey is on the house. if your visit doesn’t coincide has a court One level below the glass atrium There’s no shortage of good 24 Binnen Oranjestraat, 1013 JA with a match day, you can take specifically for of the Conservatorium Hotel is the hairdressers in the Dutch capital 131 (0)20 337 3755 a guided tour instead. children Amsterdam outpost for Akasha. but for the hat-trick of skilled staff, barber.nl ajax.nl For short-term visitors, day passes good music and strong coffee, you Whoops, see and monthly membership are should consider a passionate fling you later! Just call me available. These afford access to with Wild Romance. Johan Wooyff pilates, boxing and yoga classes, the A host of seasoned freelancers moderately sized but well-equipped operate out of the duplex studio, gym and the underground spa with cutting, colouring and styling. A its pool, sauna and hamam. pretty little atrium with basins can The real treat is in the details, be found up top, while a vintage- from the smartly designed lockers inspired barber is set up on the with retractable coat hangers to lower level. There’s also a solid the Netflix-enabled screens on stack of the latest publications on the treadmills. hand including – ahem – one called Conservatorium Hotel, 27 Van Monocle. Make your booking Baerlestraat, 1071 AN online or in person. 131 (0)20 570 0000 62 Spuistraat, 1012 TW conservatoriumhotel.com wildromance.net

124 125 Amsterdam Amsterdam Sport and fitness— —Sport and fitness

Cycling routes Running routes Pedal power Hit the road Haarlemmerdijk

Entrepotdok Meeuwenlaan Overtoom Sloterdijkerweg Marnixstraat 2 1 Sloterdijkerweg 3 Zuider IJdijk Van Baerlestraat Mauritskade Westerpark Centraal station Vondelpark Haarlemmerweg 4

Zeeburgerdijk Stadhouderskade

Noord cycle tour Vondelpark Outer canal ring Westerpark Waterways and green fields Park run Round trip Canal tour

The city centre isn’t always the most relaxing place to distance: 4.3km distance: 10km distance: 5km wheel around so try the north’s rural paths instead. gradient: Flat gradient: Flat gradient: Flat difficulty: Easy difficulty: Moderate difficulty: Moderate starting point: Centraal station, Centrum highlight: The stretch along the southern pond highlight: The changing architecture highlight: Scenic views of canals (and a windmill) distance: 10km best time: Take your pick best time: Early morning to beat the traffic best time: Mornings if you’re a dog-lover nearest station: Rijksmuseum nearest station: Rijksmuseum nearest station: Haarlemmerplein Rent your fiets (bicycle) from MacBike, around the back of Centraal station. Take the 902 ferry to Start at the main entrance of the park on Start anywhere on the outer canal ring, depending It’s easy to clock some kilometres in Westerpark. The IJplein, drinking in the views over the city, and once Stadhouderskade and head west under the bridge on where you’re staying; we’ll start across from the manicured garden dotted with sculptures joins the old docked pedal northeast along Meeuwenlaan. Cross designed by Piet Kramer in 1947. Next you’ll enter Rijksmuseum, going anti-clockwise around Centrum. gasworks, now restaurants and bars, and tracks extend the first roundabout and just after the road forks take the main park; take the first right to follow the road Avoid the red bike path and stick to the footpath, north and west through the less-maintained greenery. a sharp right onto pretty Nieuwendammerdijk (see that loops around the pond. Look out for the neo- which sporadically becomes a carpark over the next Start at the Westerpark entrance (at the junction page 109), a quaint street with charming old houses. gothic Vondelkerk on the right, designed by Pierre kilometre. Cross at Weteringlaan and head along the of Houtmankade and Westerpark), following the main Take a break in Café ’t Sluisje, a historic Cuypers, the man behind the Rijksmuseum (see page canal past the old Heineken Brewery. Cross Westeinde, footpath northwest; at the tennis courts follow the bruin café in a building that’s nearly 500 years old and 91). At the fork in the path, leave the main road and with De Nederlandsche Bank on your left. paved path as it veers slightly right. You’ll soon be has a large waterside terrace that’s perfect for lunch. head right on the narrow path that meanders along The road inclines to cross the Amstel. Bear running in line with the train and when the path ends Continue straight along the same road, passing fields the edge of the park, passing Roman church-turned- right at the Wibautstraat intersection, following the cross the thoroughfare (look out for cyclists) and and waterways as you go, until it ends at a park. music-venue Orgelpark. pedestrian crossings. At the statue of Dr FM Wibaut continue along the footpath opposite. Turn right over the white bridge, immediately As you rejoin the main road, take a sharp right run east along the canal to the Olifantsbrug. Cross it, The next leg is a simple loop around the western left and then keep right on Schellingwouderdijk. After and carry on for about 700 metres. At the end follow head down the passage through the building ahead, residential stretch of the parklands, along a gravel path you’ve passed some football pitches, turn right down the curve to your left and once you’ve crossed the then cross Sarphatistraat and take the wooden bridge with wild foliage on either side. At the carpark look Noorder IJdijk and dismount when you reach the start water (marked by knee-high walls) take a right to run to run past the new blocks on Entrepotdok. Follow for the path on your left and follow it down the gentle of the Oranjesluizen. To cross this series of working along the narrow path. Rejoin the main road and after the road almost to the end, veer right down another slope to the end. Continue adjacent to Sloterdijkerweg locks you’ll have to go by foot. about 300 metres take the lakeside path again. passage, then left over the green drawbridge. for about 200 metres then follow the path as it turns Once you’re back on your bike head down At the next fork, keep left and then head back Turn right towards Arcam (see page 114), then left left to re-enter the parklands. Go left again at the next Zuider IJdijk, joining the two upper paths nearest onto the main road. Veer right, passing “Figure along Prins Hendrikkade. Pass by Grand Hotel Amrâth corner and run along the tree-lined footpath, bordered the water. At the T-junction turn right and follow Découpée (L’Oiseau)” in the clearing on your left. (see page 24) then as you pass Hotel NH Collection, by the residential plots on your left and a commercial the path to a big bridge; wheel your bike up the This sculpture was designed by Picasso and presented veer right to cross the canal. At the next canal turn complex on your right. tracks on the nearside stairway. Head west along to the city in 1965. Loop right around the pond and on left then right along Haarlemmerstraat, which turns As you approach the cylindrical building of the Zuiderzeeweg until the junction, where you turn right the left look for a blue bridge to the Blauwe Theehuis into Haarlemmerdijk retail strip. Cross the square, Westergasfabriek (Western Gasworks) you’ll reach a onto Zeeburgerdijk. Continue for 1.5km until you (Blue Teahouse), a modernist institution built in the approach the concrete Haarlemmerpoort arcade and junction. If you’re feeling fit take a left towards and see the De Gooyer windmill (see page 120) over the 1930s. Finish here with a drink or loop around the turn left on Korte Marnixstraat. This final leg is inside under the train line for a short lap around a city water to your right. Once you reach it, it would be building and continue on to pass the statue of Dutch the canal ring, an uninterrupted stretch of footpath. At farm; if you’re ready to wind down head straight back impolite not to reward yourself with a beer at adjacent poet Joost van den Vondel, after whom the park was the Apple store head right over the canal and then left towards Westerpark. At the train line follow the path brewery Brouwerij ’t IJ. named. You’ll wind up back at the starting point. to finish by the Rijksmuseum. on which you entered the park.

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