For Mongolia, first some In Search of Mongolian Barbecue terminology. Perhaps the most concise definition I got for Debra McCown Mongolian barbecue came from a Abingdon, Virginia (USA) translator Solongo: “In traditional barbecue, they use hot stones, and that’s how they cook it.The Asking about barbecue in Mongolia learned from his grandfather and trick of it is everything has to be can get you some strange looks. now cooks for tourists outside closed. The container is closed Barbecue is not interesting, they Ulaanbaatar. A translator and I tightly, and no air is coming out.” say. They’ll tell you food is not traveled with him to his family In fact, to most Mongols, barbecue interesting. And among foods, home, where I essentially threw means either horhog or boodog. dairy products are certainly more two big barbecue parties for his The first of these is what Solongo interesting than barbecue, a relatives and neighbors. Before I is describing: placing meat and subject that is “not taken go into what I learned about the hot rocks inside a sealed metal seriously,” as one Mongolian labor-intensive process of making container. In boodog the cooking professor told me. The ethno- real Mongolian barbecue, I should is done made by placing hot logists with whom I spoke at the provide some background on stones inside the sealed skin of the National University of Mongolia barbecue and its history in animal. Horhog and boodog are indicated that no one has ever Mongolia. cooked both from the inside by the done a study on barbecue or even hot rocks and pressurized steam on meat. At most the subject What is Barbecue? and from the outside by the heat receives passing mention. In Food is so taken for granted that of a fire. Mongolia, when people have a it rarely appears in histories; yet, What we are not talking about party, they cook an animal. In a there may be nothing more here is shorlog, an imported kind country that lives primarily from illustrative of the universality of of shishkebab involving cooking its animals, this is a given, an the human experience. The marinated chunks of meat, fat and obvious thing, like the color of the concept of cooking an animal and sometimes vegetables on skewers sky or the change of seasons. celebrating in a large group has on a grill. Why, they wonder aloud, would probably been around as long as anyone try to study such a thing? men have been hunting. It is A Few Words on Meat in But such pessimism about mentioned in stories of Chingis Mongolian Culture barbecue is not enough to stop a Khan and of events in the Middle I was told many times that in order North Carolina Tar Heel from East more than a millennium to be considered “real food” in studying a subject so near and before that, in the Bible. Mongolia, a meal must contain dear to her heart. Others have Not only in legend, but also in meat, even though historically been inspired by their love of modern-day culture, the concept other food products from the pulled pork to drive hours upon of barbecue spans the world. traditional herding culture have hours to experience the regional Natives in the Caribbean built also been significant. The variations of American barbecue frameworks of sticks on which to numerous petroglyphs in the — but I am the first, far as I know, slow-cook meat over a fire; the Mongolian Altai attest to the to go all the way to Mongolia in word barbecue arrived in Europe importance of hunting by those search of barbecue. I said I’d go via Spain from their term for such who inhabited the area thousands to the end of the earth for a good structures. While barbecue in the of years ago. An encyclopedic barbecue sandwich — and I wasn’t United States usually involves a description of the Mongolian Way joking. large metal grill, the North of Life summarizes how with most As it turns out, true Mongolian Carolina variant, “pig-picking,” of the meat from hunted animals, barbecue is nothing like the stuff originated from the practice of people would make horhog or marketed as “Mongolian bar- turning a pig on a spit over a fire boodog or fry it on a stick in the becue” in the United States. In and picking the meat off the fire. The meat from hunted fact, the two traditional Mongolian outside as it cooked. Hawaiians animals could also be boiled. Meat methods of making barbecue are bury a pig underground with piles was seasoned with wild onions and virtually unknown in the West. of hot stones; Mongolians put hot grasses and sometimes milk stones inside the animal or inside products in soups. It was common Ultimately, my search took me a container. True Mongolian to eat the head, legs and insides to Bayanhotag sum, Hentii aimag, barbecue is simply that country’s first before the meat because they where I learned firsthand how to variation of the global concept that go down easily. Each organ meat make horhog and boodog from might best be summed up as was traditionally divided evenly Purevtogtokh (Purev), a man who “cook a critter, have a party.” among everyone in the ger
36 (Mongolian Way 1987). Early to the summer’s meatless diet, cauldrons if they were covered historical sources, such as the helps to quench this meat hunger. with a metal lid and it was Secret History of the Mongols, weighted down with stones. while not providing details about My host Purev explained that how meat was prepared, since 1921, with urbanization, to In the absence of such lids emphasize the importance of the degree that Mongols have among archaeological finds, as serving meat in traditional become more settled and don’t Professor Byambadorj of the hospitality (Secret History 1998) have so many milk products in the National University of Mongolia summertime, they eat more meat explained to me, horhog likely Yet, as the Franciscan William of than they did before. He said it is evolved from the ancient boodog Rubruck astutely observed in the no longer true that meat is only cooking technique. Boodog is 13th century while discussing the eaten for special events in the difficult, he said, because it Mongols’ tastes in meat, “In summer, though horhog or boodog requires the animal to have a good summer, so long as lasts their is still a treat. skin for making it. Also, hunters kumis, that is to say mare’s milk, began making horhog, he said, they care not for any other food” A Concise History of Barbecue because they needed to use the [Fig. 1] (Rubruck 2004). Indeed, in Mongolia animal skin instead of burning it, The preparation of horhog and and so they needed something boodog reflects the conditions of other than the skin to cook the nomadic life where there might be meat in. They began using a part minimal cooking equipment. As of the stomach of a sheep or goat, Professor Lkhagvaa of the taking it with them, making Mongolian University of Science horhog in it, and then keeping the and Technology told me, the use skin to use for something else. As of hot stones is a very old practice. Purev told me, the use of modern “The easiest way of making food metal containers for making is…making fire, heating two horhog began probably in the stones…barbecue is maybe from 1920s. this, putting it on the meat and Surely one of the earliest explicit between it.” references to what we might Photo © 2005 Daniel C. Waugh There is no archaeological assume was the preparation of Fig. 1. Milking a mare, Tamir River boodog is in the late 14th century region, Arkhangai aimag. evidence regarding when boodog first was made, although it is safe Yüan shih, the official history of there is an amazing range of milk to assume that its preparation the Yüan (Mongol) Dynasty in products, not just kumis, which from hunted animals dates from China. The story relates how the form the core of the summer diet. ancient times, soon after humans young Temüjin, the future Chingis As a recent text explains, discovered fire. The idea of Khan, was fleeing for his life with making boodog with livestock (as a few companions, among them The main reason for the heavy is common now) is relatively new his brother Khasar (Qajar): focus on dairy products in but may date as far back as the summer is the need to Fig. 2. Burial goods in a Xiongnu grave, time when people began herding including bronze cauldron containing consume milk and its animals. Excavations of Xiongnu animal bones. Tamiryn Ulaan Khoshuu, derivatives before they get graves in Mon- Arkhangai aimag, Feature 97. spoiled very fast in the golia from two summer heat. Plus summer is millennia ago not the time to slaughter have yielded animals and therefore the bronze caul- meat supplies drastically drons containing reduce in those months. bones of animals Herders also refrain from presumably slaughtering their animals in from the ritual hot weather lest the meat preparation of become spoiled in a very food to accom- short time (Baabar and pany the de- Enkhbat 2002: 34). ceased [Fig. 2]. The Mongolian language actually It is possible has specific words describing the that horhog hunger for meat during the could have been
summer. Barbecue, an exception prepared in such Photo © 2005 Daniel C. Waugh
37 When they reached the Pan- because they are not as busy with Barbecue and Health chu-ni (Baljuni) River their the herds. The summer is also provisions were entirely when people have enough milk to There is a significant connection exhausted and, since the distill vodka from it, and when city between barbecue and healing. place was desolate and people have their month-long When the barbecue is done, remote, there was no way to vacations. The preparation of before eating it you must first toss obtain food. It happened that barbecue is always done in the one of the hot, greasy stones back a single wild horse came countryside. and forth between your hands, a northward. The prince Ha- practice that is supposed to be cha-erh (Qajar) shot it and Barbecue in Mongolia is used good for your health [Fig. 3]. killed it. Thereupon, they mainly for celebrations. Horhog removed the hide to make a and boodog, while they have long cauldron. They produced fire existed alongside other cooking from a stone. They drew the methods, have always been the water of the River. They boiled food of special occasions, such as and ate it. [Tr. by Cleaves Naadam (the big sports festival in 1955, p. 397; cf. Weatherford July) or the arrival of honored 2004, p. 57, where he in- guests. Purev told me people terpolates details not in the make barbecue during the felt- original.] making time in early summer and also when a family’s grown Purev related a modern children come home from the city equivalent of this old story of to visit. Today it remains the food destitute flight from pursuers. of celebrations largely because it Before the 1921 revolution, he is enough to feed a large group. said, there were men who stole People enjoy it since it isn’t livestock from the wealthy and everyday food, especially in the distributed it to the poor people summer when little meat is eaten. some distance to the east. To As much as anything, the focus is escape the animals’ owners, they not on the food itself but on the had to ride thousands of occasion for which it is served. kilometers, and they had no time to sit and eat while on the run. Generally, making barbecue in So, as they were riding, they Mongolia is thought of as would catch marmots, large something done by men. However, Photo © 2007 Daniel C. Waugh rodents that inhabit the steppe of gender roles may in fact vary. Fig. 3. Handling the hot stones Mongolia. They would stop to take Carengerel, mother of the family at a Mongolian barbecue. out the bones and heat up some I stayed with in Bayanhongor rocks in a fire, then stuff the rocks Aimag, said her husband can do Purev told me playing with hot inside, tie it shut, hang it from barbecue but doesn’t, though he stones makes you less tired, and their saddle and continue to ride. does hunt marmots. No one in the in the spring everyone is tired. After galloping for an hour or so area is well-known for barbecue, You’re supposed to touch them they would stop to remove the hair she said, but everyone can do it, with your fingertips, too. I was and put the marmot on a fire to horhog with mutton or goat. In her skeptical at first, but holding hot cook the skin. They would drink area, she said, people don’t make stones actually gets kind of the broth, eat the meat, drink boodog with goats, only marmots. addictive. some cold water from a stream, and keep riding. The description I received from According Martha Avery, “These Catherine Heffernan, an American stones are very therapeutic, so Barbecue in Mongolia: When, Peace Corps volunteer, on how you can use them. Hold them in Where, Why and by Whom? horhog is made in Selenge aimag your hands, or sit on them, or put and Tov aimag seemed to assign them under your feet. For Everyone I asked told me importance to gender division of example, if you have stomach barbecue in Mongolia is generally labor in making the barbecue. problems, put them on top of your a summer thing. It’s common When the layering of meat and hot stomach for a while. The stones knowledge in Mongolia that the rocks was done in the can, she will be black and oily. Don’t wash animals aren’t fat enough in the said, the wife put in the meat and them off!” (Avery 1996). winter or spring. People also have salt, while the husband put in the more free time for special meals hot rocks. The husband, she Ankhtaya, master teacher at the and gatherings in the summertime observed, kept the fire going. traditional medicine school at
38 Mambadatsun Monastery in Purev said of horhog, “but it takes normally do not have seals, it may Ulaanbaatar, told me a little bit a long time and hard work.” also be necessary create one (in about how the hot stones used in our case it involved placing under making barbecue are also used in The process of making horhog, the lid a layer of plastic bags and traditional healing. The tradition is begins with selecting the proper newspaper). The idea is that the not connected to Buddhism, she stones. About 100-200 km before container should be as airtight as says, and she has no idea when it we reached our destination in possible but also safe from began, though her guess is that southern Hentii aimag where I exploding. The key to the rapid people have been doing this as was to learn how to make cooking of horhog is the pressure long as they’ve been making traditional Mongolian barbecue, from the steam inside the boodog. These practices are being we stopped to collect stones for containeer. Readers should note used just as much now as in the making horhog and boodog. The that pressure cooking can be recent past, she said, though it is proper kind of stones, Purev dangerous. Making horhog in an possible these treatments were explained, are not available in the improvised pot at home is not used more in the 17th and 18th area where we were going. You recommended; even when using centuries than they are now. have to get river stones, he said, a proper pressure cooker with a because they will not break easily. For sleeping problems, safety valve, when opening the They must be round and smooth, cover one must be very careful to Ankhtaya says, you can put hot with no cracks. We collected the stones on your head, hold them release the pressure gradually stones by a small, slow-running first. in your hands, or place them on stream that used to be a big river. the back of your neck. Putting a We selected from the collection hot stone on the back of your neck the next morning but did not have Although any kind of meat may will also help to relieve nervous to clean them, since heating them be used, horhog is generally made problems. Placing a hot stone on in the fire killed any germs. with mutton. The sheep is the side of your head, directly in Occasionally stones will explode slaughtered immediately before front of your ear, can help improve when heated. Before placing them the horhog is assembled. Mongols a problem with your hearing. in the horhog, they must be red- do not use the word “kill” with Placing a hot stone on your back, hot. animals. The word is always in the area of your kidney, can help translated as “to cut.” They with a kidney problem. She said The other essential non-food slaughter sheep by cutting a slit these ailments are caused by requirement is the container itself. in the lower part of the belly and coldness, which is why hot stones We used a 40-liter (roughly 10 then reaching a hand inside up are helpful. Holding hot stones can gallon) metal container of the sort past the elbow to squeeze the also help prevent these conditions. used for storing water or dairy aorta [Fig. 4]. When a skilled Ankhtaya also had some health products—a small milk can, if you person does this, the sheep dies advice on eating barbecue. People wish. Some of these have a clamp in a matter of seconds, and no with liver problems, such as with which to fasten down the lid blood is spilled on the ground. Hepatitis B, should not eat boodog securely, although in Mongolia During the entire process, Purev because it contains a lot of fat, people have even been known to said, it is necessary to pray, which is not good for people with improvise by holding the lid down because that way it is not seen to liver problems, she said. with an iron anvil. Using wooden be against the tenets of Buddhism wedges to tighten the clamp may which prohibit killing living beings. The Process of Making Horhog be necessary. Since such cans If a goat is being slaughtered, they hit it on the head with a Making horhog can be hammer and then cut its described very simply, throat to drain the blood. although the actual The meat is cut into chunks, preparation process is leaving the bones in; the rather involved. You entrails are processed slaughter an animal, chop separately (see below). it up, and put the meat, still on the bones, into a The recipe metal container with Add to the can the potatoes, onions, spices, following: and hot rocks, then put it Water, maybe half a gallon; on the fire, cooking the meat from both inside and 1/3 of the meat and outside, with both heat vegetables: carrots and and pressure. “It tastes Photo © 2005 Daniel C. Waugh potatoes, peeled and nice and it looks nice,” Fig. 4. Cutting a sheep, Tamir River partially pre-cooked. region, Arkhangai aimag.
39 If necessary, add more water the sheep was being cut up for tially, it is the whole sheep. When to cover completely. horhog, everyone in the extended they made it in Hentii, the head, Add half of the spices (onions, family helped in processing the hooves and tail were taken garlic, salt, pepper, pepper- entrails. These insides are made outside, the hair cut short and corns and laurel leaves, or, if into several dishes: then burned off with a blowtorch [Fig. 7], and then all of it was you have them, traditional 1) Blood sausage, for which the washed very well and boiled. An seasonings of wild onions and blood is mixed with flour, salt, older person cuts and distributes grasses). water, onions and garlic, put into the meat, and it is distributed in a Add a layer of hot rocks, the large intestines and boiled. very specific way. A young woman, blowing off the ash on them 2) Liver wrapped in the fat lining I was given a small part of the first. from around the organs and mouth that is customarily given to Add another third of the meat cooked directly in the flames. The young girls because it is supposed and vegetables, the other half dung fire is supposed to give it a to help them sew better. of the spices and, as needed, good taste. The liver thus cooked water to cover. may be served as an appetizer To this point what I am describing is “traditional,” but as Then add another layer of hot during the preparation for cooking horhog. we know, tradition is not rocks. unchanging. Since my barbecue Add the final third of the meat 3) Soup made from the organ teacher Purev has spent the last and vegetables and cover with meats, seasoned with onions, several years working at tourist hot rocks. The can should then pepper and salt. It is cooked on camps, when he prepares horhog be approximately two-thirds top of a stove, inside the stomach and boodog in the countryside he full. where hot rocks have placed, a is making traditional Mongolian Close the can securely and smaller version of the process food but also adapting the menu place it in the stoked fire or on used for making horhog. It is to urban tastes and ingredients. called “origin myth soup” and is top of a stove on high heat. Thus, while the horhog began to Cook for approximately an hour not ever served to tourists; it is just a local dish. The boiled cook, we went to work making and a half. A smaller container salad: chopping cabbage and of the dish takes less time. entrails, like the liver, may be served as an appetizer. carrots. The salads were of the No part of the animal is allowed sort served at tourist camps. to go to waste [Figs. 5, 6]. When 4) Ikh Mongol, or “the great Cabbage and vinegar, salt, Mongolian meal,” is sugar, oil; called this because it Carrot, mayonnaise and garlic; includes the head, Cooked potato and carrot, the tail, the four corn, peas, salt and mayon- hooves and a naise. sausage made from the insides – essen- When the horhog was done, the container was re- moved from the stove and set on the floor of the ger to cool for a bit. Then every- one was called in, the container was open- ed, and the hot rocks were passed around (“juggled” might be a more appropriate term until they cool a bit). Then everyone drinks the broth,
Fig. 5. Butchering the sheep. Fig. 6. Scraping off the stomach lining. Fig. 7. Using a blow- torch to burn off the
Photos © 2005 Daniel C. Waugh hair around the tail.
40 make boodog, you must remove stomach breaks, it ruins the animal’s bones and internal everything. In Hentii, it took two organs through the neck. Then men to wrestle the stomach and you put pieces of meat on bones intestines out. It’s also important inside the skin, along with spices to avoid cutting anything that will and hot rocks. You remove the hair cause the whole carcass to fall with fire from the outside, and this down. “It’s like surgery, only fire also adds heat to the cooking without looking,” Purev explained. process from the outside, meaning Finally, when all the bones have that, as with horhog, boodog been removed, the de-boned goat cooks from both inside and skin is turned inside-out to outside. separate the remaining meat. The de-boned skin for boodog is called Boodog is made with either tulam. If a little bit of hair gets marmot or goat because these stuck inside, the hot stones will two animals have a skin that can burn it up and it will not be in the tolerate having hot rocks inside boodog. This time though, Photo © 2007 Daniel C. Waugh without breaking. It is theoretically because it was still May and the Fig. 8. Dishing out horhog. possible to make camel boodog, hair was very long, there was way which is very rich, thick and fatty. but in reality it is impossible too much hair, and they used a Finally the meat is divided [Figs. because a camel, which is large, blowtorch to remove the hair from 8, 9]. Traditionally, the meat is would take a whole truckload of the inside the skin. Watching two divided evenly among everyone in hot stones. Sometimes barbecue grown men, armed with a the ger. The choicest piece is the people in Mongolia tell jokes in blowtorch, wrestle with an inside- shoulder blade, called the out goat is an odd dal, which is offered to the sight for a visitor. honored oldest member of the group, who then Once the goat was divides it among everyone finally turned back present. One sheep right-side-out, they typically feeds around 30 stuffed it with the people. following: Spices (onions, It is important after garlic, laurel leaf, eating the meat from salt, pepper, pep- horhog not to drink cold percorns); water because it can hot rocks; cause the fat to congeal in your stomach and get meat, bone-in; stuck there, making you hot rocks; sick. Hot tea is an more meat and acceptable drink with Photo © 2007 Daniel C. Waugh spices, and one barbecue. Milk vodka Fig. 9. Horhog served al fresco Khoit Tsenkher kidney; Valley, Khovd aimag. (airag) is the traditional hot rocks. drink, although commercial which “camel boodog” is the bottled vodka is quite common punchline. They made a point of placing the nowadays, drunk neat, of course. hot rocks in certain places inside The Process of Making Boodog The process of removing all the the skin. Then they tied it up as bones and organs through the tightly as possible, even though As with horhog, the preparation goat’s neck takes a long time and steam continued to escape. process for boodog is a lot tougher requires a good knowledge of Traditionally the skin is tied shut than it sounds, and it takes a long anatomy. The carcass is with hair from a horse’s tail. time.The word boodog comes suspended during the process; Nowadays, wire or plastic string from the verb bookh, which means bones must be removed one at a may be used – whatever is “to tie.” As with horhog, pressure- time, each one requiring some available. Once the boodog bag is cooking is essential to the process, effort. It is absolutely essential to tied shut, they burned off the though with boodog the cooking remove everything without remaining hair with a blowtorch. is done inside the animal’s skin breaking the stomach or making Traditionally, the skin with hot instead of in a metal container. To any holes in the skin. If the rocks inside is placed on an
41 elongated fire that encompasses intact, the hunter must shoot the it in Ulaanbaatar. But it was the whole. Purev said that a big marmot in the head and be careful nowhere to be found, even though grill can be used for cooking not to put any holes in the skin. I had been told that there are boodog, like the one used for Hunting marmots relies on the restaurants in Ulaanbaatar which cooking pigs in the United States. rodents’ innate curiosity. “Twirling serve horhog made on a small As I observed it in Hentii aimag, a tuft of yak-tail will arouse the scale. The only advertised however, the cooking was done marmot’s curiosity. When it rises commercially available barbecue with a blowtorch. The meat is up to get a better look, the hunter in Ulaanbaatar was the new cooked both by the hot stones has a chance for a good shot” franchise of the Michigan-based inside and the fire from outside. (Goldstein and Beall 1994, p. 65). BD’s Mongolian Barbecue. As a If the cooking skin has really been Marmots are also trapped for their billboard announced, its general tightly sealed, it may be necessary skins, which have been exported concept is “Create Your Own Stir to open it occasionally during in such large numbers in recent Fry.” cooking to release some of the years that the government pressure and prevent its ex- enacted a ban on all marmot ploding. Purev said that many a hunting. Billy Downs, president of BD’s, burn has been caused by told me about the franchise. The exploding boodog after someone Bat, who works for a company project began when a restaurant accidentally burned a hole through catering to foreign hunters, owner in Ulaanbaatar who served the skin. explained that, despite the a similar style of “Mongolian hunting ban, which includes the barbecue” contacted him to ask The boodog takes about an hour penalty that the marmot and the for help with the cooking process. to cook (much less time than it hunter’s gun will likely be “They didn’t feel like they were took to de-bone the goat!); it is confiscated and the hunter fined, doing it the right way, so they done when soft all over. The skin people still hunt enough marmots contacted us for help,” Downs should be an even, golden-yellow to sell marmot boodog along the said. “We decided to open a whole color. When everyone has roadside in the country. The taste restaurant.” gathered, someone cuts open the boodog The restaurant is set and distributes the up like a salad bar of rocks and meat. uncooked things: meats, vegetables and As is the case with sauces. Diners fill a bowl mutton horhog, it is with their choice of important not to drink ingredients, and cooks cold water after eating prepare the food on a goat boodog, because hot griddle with two long it can cause the fat to metal cooking tools they congeal in your sto- call “swords” [Fig. 10]. mach. It is, however, Whether the food served a good idea to drink at BD’s is authentically cold water after eating Mongolian is a good marmot or horse meat question; both Mongols (the fat is different and and Americans in will not congeal). Mongolia said they don’t Photo © 2007 Daniel C. Waugh Marmot Boodog Fig. 10. Cooking on the griddle at BD’s in Ulaanbaatar. think so. Mongols said the slivers of meat Traditionally, boodog is made with for marmot boodog trumps designed to cook quickly are part marmot. Because marmot meat enthusiasm for enforcing the of their food culture, but not the has a lot of calories, it is believed hunting ban. As one Mongol rest. Americans suggested that to have good and healthy meat asserts, “Mongolians are crazy the BD’s concept may have first (Gongorjav 1999). Marmot about Marmot!” This, despite the been packaged as “Mongolian” in reportedly tastes a lot like danger that live marmots are China or Taiwan and then exported horsemeat. A strange thing about known to be carriers of the plague. to the U.S. marmot, Purev said, is that three people can eat a marmot and be Barbecue for Sale? full, and so can ten. In any event, it is certainly not Before I went to Hentii to learn the traditonal “Mongolian Because making boodog how to make Mongolian barbecue, barbecue” I have described above, requires that the animal’s skin stay I did a pretty extensive search for even if some aspects of the
42 preparation resemble what one been very successful is tourist About the author can find in everyday practice. camps. Employees at Chinggisiin Debra McCown is a newspaper Khuree, a tourist camp roughly 20 In the countryside, Mongols reporter and writer who spent five km from Ulaanbaatar, for generally cook in a big metal bowl months in Mongolia in 2005. She example, say that on a typical (we might call it a wok), either now makes her home in Abingdon, weekend they feed 70 to 100 balanced between three rocks or Virginia, where she continues her guests per day and business is set into a round hole over a fire. search for excellent barbecue. She increasing. On one hectic day In the process of making soup and may be contacted at 1,000 guests came. other dishes, they first brown all
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