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Gabon% POP 1,738,500 / 241

Includes  Why Go? ...... 271 With an impressive 11.25% of the country proclaimed as na- Pointe Denis...... 275 tional parkland, offers a spectacular array of wildlife Port-Gentil...... 276 in its dense rainforests and open savannah to enthral nature Omboué & enthusiasts. Add to that superb white-sand beaches, rushing Fernan Vaz Lagoon..... 277 rivers and ethereal landscapes, and you have an Eden-like travel experience in an unexplored part of Africa. Loango National Park...... 278 Gabon is the region’s most progressive and traveller-­ friendly destination, although tourism remains extreme- Setté Cama...... 279 ly DIY. You’ll either have to put yourself into the hands Mayumba of a travel agency, or negotiate the poor roads, infrequent National Park...... 279 transport options and the almost total lack of reliable infra- Lambaréné...... 280 structure yourself. Outside the cosmopolitan Libreville and Lopé National Park...... 281 Port-Gentil, the country’s largest cities, Gabon is an undis- Ivindo National Park....281 covered wonderland not to be missed. Understand Gabon.....282 Survival Guide...... 284

When to Go Best Places to Eat Libreville ¨¨L’Odika (p273) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 ¨¨Le Bistrot (p277) 20/500 16/400 ¨¨La Dolce Vita (p271) 30/86 ¨ 12/300 ¨Le Voilier (p274) 20/68 8/200 10/50 4/100

Best Places 0/32 0 to Sleep J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨¨Loango Lodge (p279) May–Sep The dry Jul–Sep Have a Nov–Jan Spot ¨¨Pongara Lodge (p276) season makes close encounter turtles coming overland transport with a whale swim- ashore to lay ¨¨L’Hôtellerie de l’Hôpital faster and wildlife ming off Gabon’s their eggs on the Albert Schweitzer (p280) easier to see. coastline. beaches. ¨¨Le Leet Dorian (p271) N a e 100 km k Léconi Ekouyi Equator 50 miles Albert NP Maloum Mékambo Bongovill Kessala Okondja NP N4 Bateke Plateaux National Par Mwagna

R E P U B L I C R E P U B River NP O F C O N G O O F C O N C A M E R O O R O M E C A Bélinga 0 0 R E P U B L I C Bakoumba O F C O N G O

Ogooué River Mbinda Poubara Falls Nouna (p280) Lambaréné Exploring the charming, laid- the charming, Exploring by made famous town back the Nobel prize-winning Schweitzer. 5 Lastoursville (Bonda) )

Koulamoutou NP River Ivindo NP Makokou (975m) ) (937m Minkébé NP Mt Birougou Minvoul Birougou Mt Minkébé Mt Mimongo (875m Kom N3 ) Kicking Booué politan city city politan

Makoghe Masif du Chaillu Doussala ) Mitzic Bitam N2 Lalara River (972m Lopé Lopé ) Bodysurfing the waves waves the ) Bodysurfing Mt Iboundji o

National Park Ntem NP National Park Mayumba (p271 Libreville (834m) Waka Mikongo Mt Mpélé N'Dendé

­ in this cosmo back nearby trip to a day and taking Denis. Pointe 4 3 (p279 humpback while watching in the distance. breach whales

Ebebiyin River Ndjolé

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Mongom

iv Komo N R o Mayumba Tchibanga National Park P Igotchi Lambaréné Mourindi Doudou NP Moukalaba- Loubom N5 Mayumba Fougamou G U I N E A Bifoun Monts de Cristal N E Q U A T O R I A L E Q U A T a Banio Lagoon Cogo

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Lake Ogooué Gamb Bata Onangué Pongara NP NP Iguéla Evengué

) Following a troop of of a troop ) Following ) Coming across wild across ) Coming National Park Lopé National Park Loango

Fernan Vaz Lagoon Tassi Loango Cap Setté Cama Acalayong Cocobeach Estérias O C E A N (p281 amid spectacular elephants scenery. wild gorillas. (p278 2 1 Gabon Gabon Highlights Nyonié

A T L A N T I C

National Park Omboué

Île de Mandji on Highlights Gab Gentil Gabon Port-

LIBREVILLE St Catherine's

Pointe Denis 270 )