MOVEM FASHION

08

DUŠKA JOVANIĆ: PRIČE I OSTALE BAJKE BOUVI VRATI SE, SVE TI JE OPROŠTENO! UMETNOST NOŠENJA ODELA ALEKSANDAR SIMIĆ: VOLEO BIH DA OVAJ ČAROBNJACI ŽIVOT NIJE SVE! PROMENE: Prag, Fića, LUNA LU: rolšue i starke NI ROD, NI BROJ, VEĆ POIGRAVANJE

RNA DELUEMONT JE MUŠKARCA

No. 08 DIREKTOR Njegoslav Trifković

IZVRŠNI UREDNIK MOVEM FASHION MODA TREND REPORT Ashok Murty [email protected] str. 8

ART DIREKTOR GENERACIJSKE PRIČE Slavimir Stojanović - I OSTALE BAJKE [email protected] str. 12

MARKETING DUŠKA JOVANIĆ Nina Reljić [email protected] UNIKATI I BLASFEMATI Nina Tarabar str. 26 [email protected] ASHOK MURTY SUPERVIZOR IZDANJA ČOVEK I ODELO Svetlana Preradović str. 30 LEKTURA I KOREKTURA ALEKSANDAR SIMIĆ Iva Milovanović UZDAM SE U ONAJ JEDAN PROCENAT ŠANSE DA POSTANEMO ŠTAMPA Rotografika BOLJI I ODGOVORNIJI LJUDI str. 34 PREVOD Ana Tešić LUNA LU RAVNOSUŠTNI KONTAKT +381 11 3111 437 str. 42 [email protected] REMONT MUŠKARACA DRAGA, KO ŽELIŠ DA BUDEM? str. 58

IGOR BELOŠEVIĆ OD PUTERA I SOLI DO SAVRŠENSTVA NA TANJIRU str. 64

LAJFSTAJL JUČE ZA DANAS str. 70

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NEWSLETTER No. 08

UVODNA REC

Po definiciji, transformacija predstavlja vodi ka neredu), a sve manje na nešto danas je jedini mogući način preživljavanja. delimičnu ili potpunu promenu u pojavi proisteklo iz čoveka. Živimo u vremenu Otuda je i moda, kao sfera našeg života u ili formi nekoga ili nečega. Savremeni ubrzane evolucije i u svakom trenutku, sve kojoj je transformacija očigledna kao u način života, suštinski, trodimenzionalna brže, sve oko nas se menja, istovremeno malo kojoj drugoj, samo paradigma onoga je manifestacija ove definicije. Naša grčevito pokušavajući da zadrži svoj entitet što živimo. Ili tačnije, paraigra u kojoj su svi realnost sve više liči na projekciju nekog i autentičnost. Naizgled samom sebi na dobitku. trans-for-mesa (u prevodu: trans koji kontradiktoran, fenomen transformacije

ED TOR’S LETTER

By definition, transformation represents mess (namely trans leading to a mess), contradicting himself, the phenomenon a partial or total change in appearance and less something derived from man. of transformation today is the only way to or form of someone or something. We live in a time of rapid evolution survive. Therefore fashion is also, as a walk The modern way of life is, essentially, and at any moment, faster and faster, of life in which transformation is visible a three-dimensional manifestation of everything around us is changing, at the more than in any other, a paradigm of what this definition. Our reality resembles same time frantically trying to hold on we are living. Or, to be more precise, a para- more a projection of some trans-for- to its entity and authenticity. Seemingly game where everybody is winning.

Slavimir Stojanović, Ashok Murty, Svetlana Preradović, Nina Reljić i Nina Tarabar nose Hugo Boss modele iz kolekcije jesen/zima 2016.

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ASHOK MURTY TREND REPORT

KLASIČNA BRAON KOŽNA JAKNA Ove sezone izbegavajte crnu boju u kožnim odevnim komadima, naročito ako želite da ostavite onaj cool i wow efekat... mislite na Kolinta Istvuda, mislite na one opasne momke koji imaju velika srca ali koji su svakog momenta svesni utiska koji ostavljaju trudeći se da to izgleda kao da ih za to baš i nije briga... dakle, obavezan komad za nonšalantne mladiće (godinama i dušom). Možete je nositi ili samu za sebe ili tretirati na isti način na koji bi tretirali lagani sportski blejzer i nositi je ispod kaputa.

CLASSIC BROWN LEATHER JACKET This season avoid the color black when wearing leather, especially if you want to give out that impression of being cool and wow… Think of Clint Eastwood, this of those bad boys with big hearts, but who are at the same time aware of the impact they are making by trying to make it look as if they didn’t really care… so, a statement piece for the cool guys (in age and soul). You may wear it either BORDO PLAID CRNO + BELO = KARO alone or treat it in the same way you Ova jesen je svakako obojena Nemojte se šaliti da ovu jesen would a lightweight sports blazer and i bojom dobroodstojalog dočekate bez bar jednog wear it under a coat… burgundca, što je nekako odevnog predmeta u karo logično za boju koja se dezenu, makar to bio šal. Ali, asocijativno vezuje za nju, ako ste od onih koji su hrabriji, onako, na prvu. Medjutim, ili ste jednostavno rešili da ove sezone, ona se diskretno iskoračite u dezen koji i pored povlači u drugi plan postajući toga što je klasičan nikada nije akcenat u zanimljivim izgubio na provokativnosti interpretacijama klasičnih zapamtite da ga kombinujete engleskih plaid-ova u tvid sa žutom, bordom ili zelenom. obradi. Tako ćete sebe odmah pozicionirati u 2017. BORDEAUX PLAID This fall certainly has the BLACK + WHITE = ARGYLE color of a well-aged Burgundy, Don’t be tempted to welcome which seems somehow this fall without at least one logical for a color that is garment in the argyle pattern, associatively linked to that even if it were a scarf… but, time of year, somehow, as if you are of a bolder kind, or in the first. However, it’s if you’ve simply decided to discreetly taking a back seat step into a pattern that, even this season by becoming the though classical, has never accent color in the interesting lost its note of excitement, interpretations of the remember to combine it with classical English plaids in yellow, Bordeaux or green. tweed woven. That is how you’ll position yourself immediately in 2017…

8 / 76 AQUARACER CALIBRE 5 Cristiano Ronaldo is born to break all the records. His motivation is to win at every occasion to challenge the human statistics. Like TAG Heuer, Ronaldo surpasses the limits of his fi eld and never cracks under pressure. ASHOK MURTY TREND REPORT

PLAVO ODELO Jesen – zima 2016. ne bi smele da prođu bez odela (dvodelnog ili trodelnog) plave boje koja se nalazi u gami od ljubičaste do kraljevsko plave...

BLUE SUIT The Fall – Winter 2016 should not go by without a suit (two-piece of three- piece) in the blue color ranging from purple to royal blue…

PARKA, TANKA MAHOVINA Postoje oni delovi garderobe Boja mahovine je logičan kao što je parka koje svake kontrapunkt tonovima rđe, sezone dobijaju novu prigušeno narandžaste, interpretaciju, hmmmm... okera ili tamno crvene. Zato da ne bi bile dosadne!? je sveprisutna kao diskretni Da, ovaj, skromni odevni akcenat u detaljima, ali i u predmet, koji iznad svega ima jakim komadima kao što su utilitarnu ulogu u garderobi, npr. perjane jakne koje tako premošćujući prostor dobijaju jedan opori muški izmedju klasičnog kišnog obol snažno asocirajući na mantila i kratke bomber vojne uniforme ili sve ono što jakne, ove sezone biva dignut se vezuje za duge boravke u na pijedestal onog komada prirodi... bez koga, jednostavno, niste kompletni... MOSS The color of moss seems like PARKA, THIN a logical counterpoint to the There are those garments tones of rust, muted orange, such as parka that are given ocher or deep red. That is why a new interpretation each it can be seen everywhere as season, hmm… so they a discreet accent in details wouldn’t be boring!? Yes, this but also in bold pieces such modest piece, which, above as padded jackets where this all, has a functional role in color gives them a pungent our wardrobe, by bridging masculine feel by alluding the space between a classic strongly to military uniforms raincoat and a short bomber or all the things related to jacket, this season is being extended stays in nature… put on a pedestal of that one garment without which you simply do not feel complete…

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SVETLANA PRERADOVIĆ

GENERACIJSKE PRICE I OSTALE BAJKE

Iz decenije u deceniju transformisao se savremeni svet, a sa njim i način života, želje, ciljevi, moralna načela, stil oblačenja, ali danas, više nego ikada ranije, teško da ćete na prvi pogled prepoznati kojoj generaciji neko pripada

Pedesetogodišnjakinja u helankama, političko okruženje u kojem su odrastali današnje omladine. Štaviše, kako stvari sa nizom minđuša na ušnoj resici i tzv. (Heraklit - kretanje stvarnosti). Podela stoje, generacija „0“ (rođeni posle 2010) „undercut“ frizurom? Pre 30 godina to na generacije, napravljena prema raznim mogla bi čak mnogo više da vodi razgovore bi bila slika ekscentrične osobe, često kriterijumima, od kolektivnog iskustva, “lice u lice” nego njihovi preci jer se na marginalizovane od strane društva. Danas? preko izbora profesije do načina oblačenja, ekranu telefona, za razliku od vremena To nije baš uobičajena slika, ali sasvim donela nam je nazive poput „Maturist“, pisma i SMS-a, sada sagovornici mogu i sigurno ni „čudo neviđeno“, jer takvu damu „Baby Boom“, „X“, „Y“, „Z“, „0“..., koji videti! možete videti kako izlazi iz džipa najnovije nam pomažu da razumemo kako se tokom Ova uporedna analiza načina komunikacije generacije, dok u jednoj od IT tašni za decenija menjao i menja život, i čovek u kroz generacije ne samo što daje koje se otima ceo svet nosi iPad poslednje njemu. alibi novim generacijama već jasno generacije i dokumente neophodne Ali, iako je oduvek podrazumevano da dokazuje našu tezu da su razlike među za sastanak upravnog odbora svetski nijedna generacija nije oslobođena uticaja generacijama danas mnogo manje nego moćne komanije, čiji je, u najmanju ruku, prethodne (roditelji), ili one koja živi s što su nekada bile. Na primer, većina potpredsednik njima (deca), danas više nego ikada na delu pripadnika generacije „X“ morala je svojim „Panta rei“ ili „Sve teče, sve se menja“ imamo transformacije unutar generacija, „posleratnim“ roditeljima da objašnjava – opštepoznata izreka koja se pripisuje koje doprinose da se tu više ne zna ko je kako pismo koje su napisali na kompjuteru grčkom filozofu Heraklitu – u skladu ko, to jest kojoj generaciji pripada. I da se „ignoriše“ poštara i stiže direktno do sa savremenim načinom izražavanja odmah na početku razumemo – u tome adresanta na drugom kraju planete trebalo bi da glasi: „Sve se transformiše“. nema ničeg lošeg. brzinom koja se približila brzini svetlosti. Sumnjamo da bi to čuvenom nosiocu Najjasniju podelu među generacijama, Istovremeno, pripadnici generacije „X“ nadimka Mračni moglo zasmetati. kažu istraživači, uvek je pravio bili su ti koji su svojoj deci na kompjuter Verovatno je na transformaciju i mislio preovladavajući način komunikacije, to instalirali prve igrice. I tu ne mislimo samo izgovarajući ove reči, jer su suštinu njegove jest tehnologije komunikacije. Ako je za na prvu planetarno popularnu igricu tipa filozofske misli, iz koje je ova izreka i generaciju „Maturista“ (rođeni pre 1945. „Pac-Mana“, koja se pojavila 1980, već i na potekla, činile teze o neprestanom kretanju godine) osnovno sredstvo komunikacije „tetris“ iz 1984, pa i na „OXO“, osmišljenu stvarnosti sa jedne, i stabilnosti iluzija sa bilo pismo, za „Baby Boomerse“ (1945– još 1952, ali i na „Minecraft“ iz 1990. druge strane, što potpuno korespondira sa 1960) telefon, za generaciju „X“ (1961– X-ovci su znači „krivi“ za sve. Odrasli savremenim pojmom transformacije. 1980) SMS i e-mail, a za generaciju „Y“ u vremenu vrtoglavog razvoja novih Ali, kakve to sada ima veze sa našom (1981–1995) socijalne mreže, šta je to što tehnoloških dostignuća i samim tim „bossy – new wave“ pankerkom sa početka u načinu komunikacije od generacija „X“ i uspostavljanja novih komunikacijskih priče? Mnogo. Jer, takva kakva jeste, „Y“ odvaja one rođene posle 1995. godine, pravila, za razliku od generacija pre i posle, „združena“ sa mnogim drugim slikama iz to jest generaciju „Z“? Poruka, to jest SMS, oni su morali da budu i roditelji i deca savremenog sveta, ona pokazuje da se jedna i dalje je tu, e-mail takođe, kao i socijalne istovremeno. Zato danas neretko možete od transformacija o kojima pričaju svi - mreže, pridodaju se samo skajp i video- čuti klinca koji se žali da mu je „tata non- generacijska - u 21. veku „malo zbunila“. poziv. Zaključak? Kompjuter i mobilni stop na kompu“ (svi u kući znaju da niko ne Termin „generacija“ upotrebljava se kao telefon glavno su sredstvo komunikacije može toliko da radi), kao što ćete lako sresti zajednički imenitelj za osobe određenog svih generacija posle „Baby Boomersa“. kćerku koja, za razliku od mame, izbegava godišta, a pre svega kao socijalna kategorija Otuda aktuelni roditelji, ali ni bake i deke, TV nastupe. – označava skupine ljudi čije je stavove nemaju pravo da se iščuđavaju nad tzv. „Radim na televiziji, a moja kćerka nije čak (Heraklit - iluzije) odredilo društveno i depersonalizovanom komunikacijom ni povodom promocije svoje knjige želela

12 / 76 da ‚bude na svim televizijama‘. Ipak, ne bih Ova tema (preširoka i previše kompleksna „Generacije su sada brend, mi smo bili rekla da smo zamenile generacijske uloge, i za mnogo pametnije) ne bi nikako smela samo omladina“, kaže Đorđević, inače nas dve imamo vrlo sličan odnos prema da prođe i bez modnog generacijskog i predsednik Asocijacije autentičnih fejsbuku, internetu, mobilnim telefonima, „skrininga“. A tu se opet vraćamo na hedonista, AAH, i dodaje: „Tako se stvara a ovo s televizijom je samo pitanje ličnih „bossy“ damu s početka priče. Modna scena veštački antagonizam, ali ne tek onako, ukusa i izbora“, objašnjava Aida Đedović, ne samo da toleriše nego i pozdravlja sliku fore radi, već iz tržišnih razloga. Očigledan majka „čuda od deteta“ Une Kozić, koja je na kojoj dama u japankama i haljini za primer je situacija u kojoj sam se nedavno sa 10 godina napisala izuzetno uspešnu i plažu šeta držeći za ruku muškarca u odelu našao. Na online skupu Wwvrsac, koji je popularnu knjigu „Društvo malih veštica“. deset godina mlađeg od sebe. Apsolutno održan u Vršcu, podrazumeva se, devojka Obratite pažnju – napisala knjigu, ne blog! identičan stav društvo (normalno, na prijavnici uporno je tražila moje ime Una, inače, trenira fudbal u FK Crvena pametno, savremeno) ima i prema majci pod ‚predavači‘, a ne ‚gosti‘, jer sam bio zvezda, svira klavir, obožava Eminema i i kćerci koje nose iste farmerke, idu jedan od retkih starijih od 40 godina s strasno navija za FK Barselona. zajedno na tetoviranje ili dele zajednički kojim je tog dana imala posla. Sa osmehom, „Ako pričamo o generacijskim razlikama, odijum prema potpisivanju bračnih misleći da se šalim, odbijala je da me mislim da su one danas, iako i dalje postoje, zaveta. Ako to, naravno, nisu mame koje posluša i potraži na listi ‚prijavljeni‘. manje nego ikada“, kaže Aida i dodaje: dubinom dekoltea i dužinom suknje žele Kasnije sam shvatio i zašto. Ne samo da „Verujem da osnovni uzrok tome leži u da pariraju ili čak zasene kćerke. Društvo, sam tu bio ‚retka zverka‘ što se godina tiče činjenici da je mojoj, i generacijama koje a time i moda, više ne poznaje ni godine ni nego zamalo da se osetim i kao lovina. dolaze posle moje, uvid u razna saznanja generacijske ograde. Zato nikog i ne čudi Naime, jedan od inostranih predavača mnogo dostupniji zbog razvoja tehnologije. što je u šestoj deceniji Monika Beluči na bez pardona je tog popodneva izgovorio To je formiralo naše stavove i način života i prvom mestu liste najlepših žena sveta ako rečenicu: ‚Nemojte u poslu gubiti vreme s doprinelo da čitav život učimo. Tako smo se pitate dede, tate, sinove..., ali i bake, majke, ljudima preko 40. Oni vas neće razumeti!‘ približili generaciji naše dece mnogo više kćerke... Znači, nije da mi iz ‚starije generacije‘ ne nego nama naši roditelji“. Generacijske razlike lagano nestaju. želimo da što bolje upoznamo svet nove Osim nove tehnologije, to jest pojave Verovatno su na to i ukazali sociolozi tehnologije i konstantno učimo. Naprotiv, kompjutera, na brisanje jasnih označivši najnoviju generaciju znakom mi to hoćemo, ali oni koji kreiraju biznis i generacijskih obeležja uticale su i mnoge „0“ (nula). Znači li to da od sada pišemo profit radije bi da to nije tako!“ druge stvari. Razmislite samo o dve novu istoriju u kojoj će roditelji oslobođeni „slike“. Koliko malo vremena je proteklo stega zvanih „tako treba“ i deca biti sve od biznis manije generacije prikazane u više saveznici, a sve manje borci za svoje „Mad Menu“ (poznatoj američkoj seriji „u pravu“? Možda. Ukoliko ih marketinški o svetu marketinga 50-ih) do slavljenja stručnjaci ostave na miru. svakog odsustva kontrole generacije o kojoj Ako se pitate otkud sada marketing u govori mjuzikl „Hair“ (Kosa)? A koliko se celoj ovoj priči, setite se da je ta rabota razlikuju pripadnici „Baby Boom“ i „X“ sada u svakoj priči, ili, još bolje, obratite generacije? Koliko mnogo vremena je pažnju na objašnjenje i iskustvo Dragana proteklo od pomenutog svetski poznatog Đorđevića, prvog čoveka kompanije za mjuzikla do „poplave“ hipstera? A koliko poslovnu edukaciju „Skills“, koji podelu malo se razlikuju pripadnici „X“ i „Z“ na generacije smatra marketinškim generacije? sredstvom.

13 / 76 SVETLANA PRERADOVIĆ

GENERATION STORIES AND OTHER FAIRY TALES

From one decade to another the modern world has transformed itself, and with it also the lifestyle, desires, goals, moral values, way of dressing, but today, more than ever before, you will have trouble recognizing at a glance to which generation one belongs to

A 50-year-old woman wearing tights, The term “generation” is used as a common “Y” from those born after 1995, so-called with sets of earring on the ear lobe with denominator for people of a certain Generation “Z”? A message that is SMS is the so-called “under-cut” hairstyle? age, but primarily as a social category still there, e-mails too, and so are social Some thirty years ago that would be a – it designates groups of people whose media, the only newer inventions are Skype picture of an eccentric individual, often attitudes (Heraclitus - illusions) were and video calls. Conclusion? Computers marginalized by society. And today? Not determined by the social and political and mobile phones are the main means a pretty standard image, but certainly not milieu in which they grew up (Heraclitus of communication of all generations after something never-before-seen, because you - moving of reality). The division between the “Baby Boomers”. That is why neither can see a lady looking like that stepping generations, made according to different parents today, nor grandparents have the out of the latest generation SUV, while criteria, from collective experience right to be astounded over the so-called carrying in one of her IT bags desired by through choice of profession to way of depersonalized communication of today’s the entire world the newest iPad model dressing, has brought us names such as youth. Moreover, the way things are now, together with documents she needs for “Mature”, “Baby Boom”, “X”, “Y”, “Z”, “0”, the generation “0” (born after 2010) could the Steering Committee meeting of an …, helping us to understand how the world potentially be having more “face to face” influential international company whose has been changing over the decades and conversations than their ancestors because vice president she is, at the very least. still is, and so is the man in it. people can see each other on their phone “Panta Rei” or “Everything flows, But, even though it has always been screens, unlike in the times of letters and everything changes” – a well-known considered by default that not one SMS! saying attributed to the Greek philosopher generation is free from the influences of This comparative analysis of the means Heraclitus – in line with the modern way the previous one (parents), or the one of communication through generations of expressing should read “Everything living with them (children), today more not only provides an alibi to the new transforms”. We doubt the famous holder than ever we can see transformations generations but also clearly proves our of the nickname The Dark one would mind between generations taking place, point that differences between generations it. He probably had the transformation in contributing to the fact we no more know are now showing much less than they once his mind when saying these words, because who is who, that is to which generation were. For example, most members of the the essence of his philosophical thought, someone belongs to. And to be clear from generation “X” had to explain to their post- from which the quote derived, was made the start – there is nothing wrong with it. war parents how the letters they wrote on based on the thesis of the infinite moving The most obvious division between their computers “ignore” the mail carrier on one side, and the stability of illusions on generations, the researchers say, has and arrive directly to the addressee on the the other, which ultimately corresponds to always been made by the dominant other side of the planet by speed close to the modern term of transformation. way of communication, that is the the speed of light. Also, members of the But, how does this have anything to do with communication technologies. If to generation “X” were the ones who installed our “bossy – new wave” punk lady from the the “Mature” generation (born before the first video games on their children’s beginning of our story? Well, a lot. Because, 1945) the main way of communicating computers. And by that we don’t talk just being the way she is, “united” with many were letters, to the “Baby Boomers” about the first planetary favorite game such other images of the modern world, she is (1945–1960) phones, to the generation “X” as Pac-man, that appeared in 1980, but also showing that one of the transformations (1961–1980) SMS and e-mails, and to the at Tetris from 1984, at OXO, designed in everybody’s been talking about - the generation “Y” (1981–1995) social media, 1952, and at Minecraft from 1990. generation one - got “a tad confused” in the what is it that distinguishes, in the way So, the generation “X” is to be blamed for 21st century. of communicating, generations “X” and everything. They grew up in a time of sky-

14 / 76 high development of new technological generation shown in “Mad Men” (famous parents will be free from pressures called achievements and thus in the time of American TV show about the marketing “it should be done like this and that” and establishing new communication rules, world in the 50s) to the celebration of children will be more like allies and less and, unlike generations before and after, any lack of control of the generation fighting for their own “I’m right”? Perhaps. they had to act simultaneously as parents the musical “Hair” speaks about? And Unless marketing experts can manage to and children alike. That’s why you can how different are members of the “Baby leave them alone. often hear kids complaining how their “dad Boom” and generation “X”? How much If you are wondering how did marketing is always on the computer” (everybody in time has passed since the previously end up in this story, just remember that the household knows nobody can work that mentioned worldwide famous musical marketing is in every story now, or, even much), or meet a daughter who, unlike her to the “flood” of hipsters? And how there better, pay attention to the explanation and mother, avoids TV performances. hardly any differences between members experience of Dragan Đorđević, the man “I work on TV, and my daughter didn’t even of generations “X” and “Z”? behind the business education company want ‘to be on TV’ to promote her book. This topic (too broad and too complicated “Skills”, who sees this division between Still, I wouldn’t say we have exchanged even for those much smarter than me) generations as a marketing mean. generation roles, the two of us have a very should not be explored without getting “Generations are a brand right now, similar attitude towards Facebook, the into a bit of generation fashion screening. while we were just the youth”, says Internet, mobiles, and this whole TV thing Which brings us back to the bossy lady Đorđević, who is also the president of the is just a matter of personal choices and from the beginning of our story. Fashion Association of authentic hedonists, AAH, preferences”, says Aida Đedović, mother of scene does not only tolerate but also and adds: “That is how you create artificial the wunderkind Una Kozić, who, at the age welcomes the image of a woman in flip- antagonism, but not just so, as a joke, but of 10, wrote a hugely successful and popular flops and a beach dress walking down for market reasons. One obvious example is book “The little witches society”. Pay the street holding hands with a man in a situation I had recently found myself into. attention – she wrote a book, not a blog! a suit ten years younger than her. An During the online conference Wwvrsac, Una also goes to soccer practices to FC Red identical opinion the society (normal, which apparently took place in the city of Star, plays piano, adores Eminem, and is a smart, modern) holds when seeing a Vršac, the receptionist kept searching for passionate FC Barcelona fan. mother and daughter wearing the same my name in the section ‘lecturers’ and not “If we’re talking about generation jeans, getting tattoos together or sharing ‘guests’, because I was one of the few she differences, I think they are today, if there the same antagonism towards signing had dealt with that day which was over still are any, less visible than ever”, says marital vows. If those aren’t, of course, forty. Smiling, thinking I was joking, she Aida and adds: “I believe the primary cause moms who, with their cleavages and length refused to listen to me and look for my of this lies in the fact that my generation, of a skirt, try to compete with or even name under ‘registered guests’. Later on, and generations that come after, have overshadow their daughters. Society, and I understood why. Not only was I a ‘rare much more access to different types of by that also fashion, doesn’t care for age creature’ as far as age goes but it almost knowledge due to the development of or generation boundaries. So it doesn’t made me feel like I was a prey of some technology. That has formed our thinking come up as a surprise to anyone that even kind. In fact, one of the guest lecturers and way of life and gave us the possibility in the sixth decade of her life Monica unceremoniously said that afternoon: to never stop learning. That is how we are Bellucci takes first place on the list of ‘Never waste your time with people over much closer to our children’s generation most beautiful women in the world if you forty. They won’t understand you!’ So, it’s than our parents were to ours”. ask grandfathers, fathers, sons, but also not like us from the ‘older generation’ don’t In addition to new technologies, namely grandmothers, mothers, daughters … want to know more about the world of new the appearance of computers, many other Differences between generations are technologies and learn continuously. On things had an impact on wiping out precise slowly disappearing. Sociologists probably the contrary, we want to, but those creating generation characteristics. Just think of pointed that out by naming the latest business and profit would rather not see it these two “images”. How little time has generation “0” (zero). Does this mean we unfold that way!”. elapsed since the business mania of the are writing a new page in history in which

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Fotograf: Braca Nadeždić Ass fotografa: Marko Cvetković Modni urednik: Ashok Murty Organizacija: Nina Tarabar Šminka: Svetlana Bojković Frizura: Aleksandar @ ID Hair Academy Ass styling: Jelena Božić, Jelena Djukanović i Zorana Vujanić Manekeni: Marko A. i Dušan J.@foxmodels Lokacija: Restoran Credo, hotel Courtyard Belgrade City Center

DUŠKA JOVANIĆ UNIKATI I BLASFEMATI ŠOUBIZ TRANSFORMACIJE

Iako se danas svet temelji na izgledu, onaj čudak velikih zanosa, čiji je stil služio kao medij i izazivao tektonske promene u religiji transformacije, i dalje važi za vanzemaljsko biće, pogotovo načinom na koji je otišao na drugu stranu, gde se takođe dobro zabavlja

Nijedan umetnik nije inspirisao toliki u početku bio radikalniji od svih, ipak je mogla biti sledeća transformacija? broj modnih dizajnera kao Dejvid Bouvi. Bouvi, kao protivnik svih konvencija, ali na Nije se odrekla izazovnosti. Naprotiv. Još Neverovatno, ali na pistama redovno vrlo suptilan način, bio ta unikatna pojava više ju je naglašavala. Na kraju je stigla i do viđamo neke od njegovih konceptualnih u modnoj zajednici. kreativne prekretnice: zašto su joj onda, karaktera. I, da, uradio je to prvi. posle najveće revolucije u XX veku, bile Raf Simons je prošle godine za „Diorovu“ potrebne „stay-up“ čarape da bi ostala u „haute couture“ reviju izveo kombinezone Kraljica je gola igri!? i lakovane čizme iz Zigi Stardast ere. Jednu Naravno da smo voleli Eltonove Zlobnici su počeli da primećuju kako se celu kolekciju posvetio mu je i Dris Van psihodelične cvikere i „sparkling“ blejzere, polako pretvara u klovna, u čijem kostimu Noten, kome je Bouvi, čudesni čovek na pokušavali da razumemo i opravdamo se i pojavila na jednom od nastupa u žici, dozvolio i da preinači hit „Heroes“ Džeksonove bele sokne na crne cipele, Australiji. za taj „fashion show“. Zlokobni lik uske fascinirani njegovim toreadorskim Njeni stajlinzi u poslednje vreme češće siluete Tina Vajta Djuka, najopasnije žaketima, čak i onda kada se nije mogao izazivaju podsmeh nego divljenje, i to Dejvidove transformacije u bele košulje i nositi sa svetom oko sebe, dok je Prinsu ne samo zbog očajničke potrebe da bude stroge sakoe, bio je domaći zadatak za tada zavideo čak i Mik Džeger. „Prins je jedini seksi u „Givenchy“ kaišu koji nosi umesto nepoznatog Edija Slimana, za drugu važnu frajer sa šminkom, visokim štiklama i suknje. Ipak, možda se najgore oseća kada modnu revoluciju. šljokicama koji ti može maznuti devojku vidi kako to rade oni koji prepisuju njene Prvu je, naravno, izazvao sredinom dok trepneš“, govorio je neuhvatljivi recepte. osamdesetih Žan-Pol Gotje svojim defileom rok zavodnik bez mnogo radikalizma u Zbog čega je u naše doba dovoljno da se „Seks objekti“, u kome su muškarci odevanju. neko uvuče u pandu da bi postao medijska prikazani kao neprikosnoveni predmeti Madona, zbog koje su se, kada se pojavila, atrakcija? žudnje, erotični i provokativni, iako im nije sve devojke pitale da li su dovoljno čupave i Vintidž primera radi, Bjanka Džeger je na obukao suknje, što se od njega očekivalo. „čipkaste“, izabrala je najkraći mogući put vrhuncu moći u „Studio 54“ došla na konju, Taj smer će neočekivano uzeti i veliki do provokacije. A činilo se kao da je htela da ali u crvenoj drapiranoj „Halston“ haljini majstor elegancije Tom Ford za ukrojena dokuči nedokučivog Bouvija. koja je „tekla“ u divljim potocima. muška „Gucci“ odela. Pravi modni legitimitet prepun Ledi Gaga će se danas obući u šnicle, ili će I mnogi drugi trenuci Bouvijeve magične kontroverze stekla je zahvaljujući na glavu nabiti rogove od jelena dok bude pojave izazivali su tektonske promene u kostimima koje joj je Gotje napravio za lomila kuk u cipelama sa najvišom petom svetu mode, mada se on uvek držao svog turneju „Blond Ambition“ 1989. Njen poznatom ljudskom oku. trika: nije se obračunavao sa društvenim bezobrazno istaknuti šiljati grudnjak, Mali Biber će, za promenu, hodati polugo, a normama, još manje je minirao puteve spojen sa idejom ozloglašenog korseta, Rijana će nas, uprkos fenomenalnom glasu, establišmenta buntovništvom bez razloga. dao joj je oklop kojim je potpuno zavladala napadati skalameričnim čizmama, da bi se On sam je bio dovoljan razlog da i moda i situacijom. crvenim tepihom Met Gale prošetala kao muzika izgledaju potpuno drugačije. Jer ih Usledila je pažljiva kalkulacija njenih kajgana. je skrojio po svojoj meri. šokantnih poteza. Udarala je društvo tamo Da li smo to zalutali u pakao ciničnih Svi se slažu da je Bouvi bio „freak“ i pre gde je najviše bolelo i toga se uvek držala, slučajnosti kada se od ženskog tela, u ime nego što je taj termin pronašao svoje usput drastično menjajući umetnički i transformacija, prave karikature, a lice mesto u pop kulturi. Slušajući isključivo modni svet. Moglo joj se. Bila je kraljica. modne revolucije izgleda kao Džoker iz sopstvene instinkte, koji drugima možda Možda sve do trenutka dok nije postala „Betmena“? A nekada je za sve to crveni ruž nisu imali smisla sve dok nisu postali „Madonna.Inc“. Sama svoj projekat i bio sasvim dovoljan. „mainstream“, on nikoga nije provocirao najprofitabilnije preduzeće. U eri kada stilske ikone stvaraju već se samo izražavao onako kako se u tom Paradoksalno, ali onda kada su je svi tabloidi treba srušiti sve granice koje se trenutku osećao. prihvatili, nastupio je stilski problem. Kada mogu pronaći. U sveto ime instagram Iako je Prins, usamljeni vuk čudne prirode, je provokacija kao takva legalizovana, šta je vratolomija.

26 / 76 S&L Jewelry&Watches WATCH PLANET by S&L WATCH PLANET by S&L Delta City Mercator Centar Beograd Usce Shopping Center t: +381 11 655 5650 t: +381 11 312 2537 t: +381 11 312 1722 e: [email protected] e: [email protected] e: [email protected] DUŠKA JOVANIĆ

The unique and the blasphemous of the showbusiness transformation

Even though the world today is based on appearance, that strange man with great enthusiasm, whose style served as a medium and caused tectonic changes in the transformation religion, is still seen as an alien, especially because of the way he passed on to the other world, where he’s also having a magnificent time.

No artist has inspired that many fashion Even though Prince, the lone wolf of a legalized, what could the next step be? designers as David Bowie. Sounds incredible, strange nature, was the most radical of them She never gave up the outrageousness. On but on the runway, we regularly see some of all, still Bowie represented, but in a very the contrary. She accentuated it even more. his conceptual characters. subtle way, that unique phenomenon in the She had finally reached her creative turning Raf Simons for last year’s Dior haute couture fashion community, while at the same time point: then why, after the biggest revolution show brought overalls and patent boots being opposed to all conventions. of the 20th century, she needed stay-up from the Ziggy Stardust era. Dries Van And, yes, he did it first. stockings to remain in the game?! Noten dedicated an entire collection to him, Malicious people started noticing how she and Bowie, the magical man on the wire, The Queen is naked was slowly turning into a clown, whose allowed the designer to revise his hit song Of course, we loved Elton’s psychedelic costume she had on during one of her “Heroes” and use it for the fashion show. The glasses and sparkling blazers, we tried to performances in Australia. ominous figure of the narrow silhouettes understand and justify Jackson’s white Her stylings lately tend to cause more of the Thin White Duke, David’s most socks paired with black shoes, we were ridicule than admiration, and not just dangerous transformation into white shirts fascinated by his matador jackets, even because of the desperate need to look sexy in and strict blazers, was a challenge for the when he couldn’t deal with the world around a Givenchy belt she wore instead of a skirt. then-unknown Hedi Slimane, for the second him, while Price was envied by Mick Jagger Still, maybe she feels the worst when she important fashion revolution. himself. “Prince is the only guy wearing sees others copying her recipes. The first one was caused, of course, in the makeup, high heels, and sequin who could Why is it enough for someone, in our day mid-eighties by Jean Paul Gaultier with steal your girl in a blink of an eye”, said the and age, to dress up as a panda to become a his show “Sex objects”, in which men elusive rock seducer who possessed little media sensation? were portrayed as undisputed objects of radicalism in his way of dressing. To give you one, we can call it vintage by desire, erotic and provocative, even though Madonna, who, when she emerged, made now, example, Bianca Jagger, at the top of they weren’t dressed in skirts, which was all the girls asking themselves if they were her game, came to Studio 54 riding a horse expected of him. This direction will be messy or lacelike enough, chose the shortest but wearing a draped Halston dress that was unexpectedly followed by the grand master possible route to provocation. And it seemed “flowing” in wild streams. of elegance, Tom Ford, in men’s tailored as if she wanted to fathom the unfathomable Today, Lady Gaga will wear a meat dress, or Gucci suits. Bowie. put deer horns at the top of her head while Many other moments of Bowie’s magical Madonna got her real fashion legitimacy breaking her hip in a shoe with the highest phenomenon also caused tectonic changes full of controversy thanks to the costumes heel known to the human eye. in the fashion world, even though he always Gaultier made for her Blonde Ambition tour Little Bieber, for a change, will walk in the kept his trick: he never confronted social in 1989. Her rudely prominent pointy bra, streets half-naked, and Rihanna will, despite norms, even less mined the roads of the combined with the idea of the infamous her phenomenal voice, attack us with giant establishment by being rebellious without corset, gave her an armor which she used to boots, only to walk the red carpet at the Met a cause. He alone was reason enough to gain full control of the situation. Gala looking like scrambled eggs. make music and fashion appear completely Then came a careful calculation of her Did we stray into a hell of cynical different. Because he tailored them to his shocking moves. She hit society where it coincidences where female bodies are requirements. hurt the most, and she has always clung to turned into caricatures, in the name of Everybody will agree Bowie was a freak, that, changing drastically along the way the transformation, and the face of fashion even before the term found its place in pop worlds of art and fashion. She was entitled to revolution looks like Joker from the culture. By listening to nobody’s instincts it. She was the Queen. Perhaps up until she “Batman” movie? And all it once took was but his own, which maybe weren’t making became “Madonna.Inc”. Her own project some red lipstick. any sense to others until they became and her own most profitable company. In an era where tabloids create style icons, mainstream, he wasn’t provoking anybody Paradoxically, at the moment she was all boundaries found must be torn down. In but was only expressing himself the way he finally accepted by everybody arose an issue the holy name of Instagram stunts. was feeling at that particular moment. of style. When provocation as such was

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ASHOK MURTY SAVRŠENI PARTNER ZA ULICNU TRKU

Uputstvo za upotrebu: Ovaj tekst namenjen je muškarcima mlađe generacije koji se bave nekonvencionalnim zanimanjima i koji su stalno u pokretu, kako u prostoru tako i u glavi, ali i svima onima koji su dosegli zen umetnosti nošenja odela

Svaki rekreativni vežbač (o onim ozbiljnijim uloga zahteva kostim, ali je i svaki od tih kostima, garderobe. Jer, avaj, pantalone su u svakom i da ne govorimo) pre ili kasnije sretne se sa zapravo, nužno refleksija naše ličnosti. slučaju pantalone, ne bivaju u jednoj situaciji (meni inače „omiljenom“) tzv. „jump in - jump suknja, a u drugoj haljina... out“ vežbom. Njena poenta jeste da naskočite Žena zna na traku koja se već okreće nekom sumanutom Dizajneri ženske odeće prigrlili su ovaj koncept Čovek i odelo brzinom („jump in“), u određenom intervalu još krajem 80-ih godina, sa jasnom vizijom Ali, možda je ovaj tekst, ipak, oda muškom trčite upravo tom neverovatnom brzinom da se granice između onoga što oblači moje odelu? Ili neka vrsta apela nama muškarcima (za koju niste ni bili svesni da vaše telo može „privatno“ i moje „javno“ ja polako brišu. Tako da konačno prema garderobi koju svakodnevno da postigne), a onda skočite („jump out“) sa se dogodila kolekcija Done Karan pod nazivom nosimo počnemo da se odnosimo kao prema tog pokretnog pakla i nonšalantno nastavite, „Sedam lakih komada“ , koja nije ništa drugo do ostalim aspektima našeg života – ceneći dobro recimo, da radite seriju sklekova, pokušavajući niz, to jest skup, esencijalnih bazičnih komada ulaganje. Jer, verujem da se razumemo, ne da sačuvate elementarno dostojanstvo dok odeće. Oni se međusobno mogu kombinovati na možete (ne smete, ne bi trebalo, šta god...) da se u vama, u istim proporcijama, mešaju bezbroj načina, omogućavajući ženi koja razume budete škrti po pitanju investiranja u okosnicu samosažaljenje i samoprezir. A onda? Opet na kako se to radi jednostavnu transformaciju muškog garderobera. Niko nije toliko bogat traku. I tako ukrug... od žene sa jakim poslovnim autoritetom do (ili glup) da u temelje ugrađuje jeftine stvari. A Prema ovoj vežbi prestao sam da gajim aktivni fatalne zavodnice. Međutim, od rađanja ovog temelj je, ima li potrebe da to uopšte navodim, otpor onog trenutka kada sam shvatio da je koncepta prošlo je više od tri dekade. Život je uvek, za svagda i zanavek – odelo. suštinski metafora mog života. Ili, bolje reći, postao mnogo komplikovaniji, a brzina na traci Kupovina odela, naročito prvog, nekakva je metafora mog „life style“ koncepta. Jer, moj se povećala. vrsta rituala kojim se (i danas, da, da, da... i život, kao i životi mnogih oko mene, danas je Tekst koji sledi ne odnosi se na žene, već na danas) prelazi ona nevidljiva granica između permanentno na-skakanje i sa-skakanje sa nekih muškarce i sedam lakih komada koje svaki od sveta dečaka i sveta odraslih. Taj momenat uvek traka koje se kreću neverovatnom brzinom, i nas ponaosob mora sam da definiše. Uz sva me je fascinirao. Na taj put narečeni dečak, u-skakanje u razne životne uloge. Svaka takva ograničenja koja nameće repertoar muške „za malo pa muškarac“, obično ne kreće sam,

30 / 76 već okružen svojim užim ili širim čoporom. I pragmatičnijim odevnim predmetima. Vežite se, polećemo dok on isprobava tu dvodelnu ulaznicu za svet Ali, tu dolazimo do moje druge fascinacije - dok KAKVA STRAŠNA GREŠKA!!! Ako na sebe muškaraca, čopor ga ocenjuje kao u nekom sa jedne strane satima mogu da lementiraju nad primenite logiku koju su davno usvojile (mudre i „talent showu“. On sam, pri tome, prilično je finim nijansama u razlikama između ovog ili stilski emancipovane) žene i počnete da tretirate ambivalentan. Na sebe će, manje ili više voljno, onog brenda patika, finoći egipatskog pamuka odelo kao jedan od „sedam lakih komada“, navući šta god da mu se doda. košulje ili pravom načinu da se nose dugmad za odmah će vam postati jasno da ono ne mora Ali! Postoji taj magičan momenat kada prvi put manžetne (sve ove stavke uglavnom pokupljene nužno biti tretirano kao celina. Niste primetili? nađete svoje savršeno odelo... U tom trenutku usput i selektivno), muškarci istovremeno ostaju U pitanju su dva separata: pantalone i sako. Et sve primedbe i dobacivanja sa strane (od sasvim zbunjeni pred idejom tzv. kombinovanja! voilà! – što bi rekli Francuzi. Odjednom će se članova čopora ili stručnog prodajnog osoblja, Da, muškarci su u modnom smislu prilično pred vama naći čitav niz novih mogućnosti i i kombinovano) bivaju nebitne. Postoji samo autistični. Naši izbori u tom pogledu uglavnom vaše odelo dobiće skokovit rast upotrebljivosti čovek u odelu i njegova refleksija u ogledalu. su statusni ili pragmatični. Ideja da o odeći i isplativosti po nošenju. Samo oprez! Ovakav Mali narcisoidni momenat koji je svima moramo da mislimo kao o alatu kojim (hrabri, jašta nego hrabri, ali veoma poželjni) dopušten. reflektujemo sopstvenu ličnost obično izaziva potez podrazumeva i određena ograničenja. strah. Ovo se automatski prenosi i na percepciju Ukoliko želite uspešan rezultat, morate se Ili nosim, ili oblačim sopstvene garderobe koju, po pravilu, delimo na odmaći od prefinjenih, klasičnih, sjajnih Međutim, šta da činimo u vremenima kada tako dve grupe: „ona koju nosim“ i „ona koju oblačim materijala, odnosno odela koja „vrište Wall živimo i radimo da nam je prilika za oblačenje u specijalnim prilikama“. U tom smislu mi smo Street“. Dobra vest je da svaka fina mešavina, odela više izuzetak nego pravilo? Ako niste potpuno neprilagođeni savremenom „jump svaka tekstura, svaki dezen u ovoj priči postaje vezani za neki od konzervativnijih ešalona in – jump out“ ritmu, a čak i najprilagođeniji vaš najbolji prijatelj. Eto. Dobili ste savršenog biznisa, sva je verovatnoća da ćete, u odnosu savremeni junoša jedino što uspeva da smisli partnera za svaku uličnu trku. jedan prema 1000, u savremenom životu veoma je jednosmerno: imam dva odela za sve umesto za odelom posegnuti za nekim mnogo prilike, jer ionako nemam prilike da ih nosim...

31 / 76 ASHOK MURTY Perfect partner for street race

Instructions: This text is intended for the younger generation men that have unconventional occupations and are on the go all the time, in space as well as in head, but also to all of those who have reached the zen art of wearing suits

Each person that doesn’t exercise on a regular men’s wear repertoire. For, alas, pants are still clothing than a suit in this modern-day life. base (not to mention those who are doing it pants anyway, they cannot become a skirt in one But, here comes another fascination – while more seriously) is sooner or later introduced to situation and dress in another... on one hand they can spend hours lamenting (my “favorite” one) the so-called “jump in - jump over subtle nuances between differences of this out” exercise. The point is to jump on a treadmill Man and suit or that brand of sneakers, fineness of Egyptian that’s already going insanely fast (“jump in”), But, perhaps this text is still an ode to a cotton of a shirt or a true way to wear cuff links run with an incredible speed for a given period men’s suit? Or some kind of call for us men to (all these things are mostly picked up on the way of time (with a speed you didn’t know your body finally develop the same relationship we have and selectively), men are left truly confused in was able to achieve), and then to jump (“jump towards wardrobe we wear on a daily basis as front of the idea of the so-called combining! out”) from that moving hell and carry on to do we do towards other aspects of our lives – by Yes, men are, in a fashion sense, pretty autistic. a series of push-ups as if you didn’t have a care appreciating a good investment. For, and I Our choices are mostly of a status or pragmatic in the world, trying to maintain some sort of believe we do understand each other, you kind. The idea that we have to think of clothes as dignity, while you can feel self-pity and self- cannot (should not, could not, whatever...) be a tool to reflect our personality usually provokes loathing mixing inside of you. And then? Back to cheap when it comes to investing in a man’s fear. This is automatically transferred to the the treadmill. And so on... wardrobe. Nobody is that rich (or stupid) to perception of our own wardrobe that we, as a I’ve started to feel active resistance towards this build inexpensive things into foundations. And rule, divide into two groups: “the wardrobe I exercise the moment I realized it represented the foundation is, should I even say it, always wear on a daily basis” and “the wardrobe I wear a genuine metaphor of my life. Or, should I say, and forever – a suit. on special occasions”. In that sense, we are the metaphor of my lifestyle concept. Because, Buying a suit, especially your first one, is some completely unadapted to the modern jump in - my life, as lives of many others around me, is a kind of ritual that we do to (even today, yes, yes, jump out rhythm, and the only thing that even series of constant jump-ins and jump-outs from yes... even today) cross that invisible border the most adapted modern guy comes up with is treadmills going on at incredible speeds, and between the worlds of boys and men. That very one-way oriented: I have two suits for all jump-intos different life roles. Each of these moment has always fascinated me. The boy, occasions because I don’t get many chances to functions needs a costume, and each of these “almost a man”, doesn’t take this road alone, wear them… costumes is, actually, a necessary reflection of but surrounded by his inner or outer circle. our personality. And while he is trying out that two-piece ticket Buckle up, we’re taking off into the world of men, the circle is grading WHAT A TERRIBLE MISTAKE!! If you apply Woman knows him as if they were in a talent show. He is quite the logic that’s been long adopted by (wise and Women’s wear designers have embraced this ambivalent during all of that. He’ll put on, more emancipated) women and start treating suits as concept in the late 80s, with a clear vision to or less willingly, anything he’s given. one of those “seven easy pieces”, it becomes clear slowly erase the boundaries between what my But! There is that magical moment when in a second that it doesn’t have to be treated “private” and my “public”- self wears. That you find your first perfect suit... At this time as a whole. Didn’t you notice that? It consists is how Donna Karan’s collection “Seven easy all remarks and comments from the side (by of two separate things: pants and jacket. Et pieces” came to life, which is nothing but a members of your circle or professionals in the voilà! – As French would say. Suddenly you will series of, namely a set of basic essential pieces store, or combined) become irrelevant. There find yourself in front of a string of possibilities to wear. They can be combined in countless is only a man in a suit and his reflection in the and your suit will have a dramatic increase in ways, allowing a woman who understands the mirror. The small narcissistic moment everyone usability and cost-effectiveness when wearing it. concept to have this simple transformation from is allowed to have. Just be cautious! This (bold, truly brave, but very a woman with high business authority to fatal desirable) move comes with certain limitations. seductress. However, three decades have passed I either wear it or put it on If you want to have a successful outcome, you since this concept was born. Life has become However, what to do in times when we live and must step away from sophisticated, classic, shiny much more complicated, and the speed on the work in such a manner that an occasion to dress materials; that is from the suits “screaming treadmill has gone up. up is more an exception than it is a rule? If you’re Wall Street“. The good news is that each fine The following text doesn’t apply to women, but not tied to some more conservative business mix, each texture, each print becomes your best men and seven easy pieces each of us must define echelons, it’s more likely you will, in relation one friend in this story. There you go. You have your for himself. With all the limitations imposed by to a thousand, reach for some more pragmatic perfect partner for street race.

32 / 76 33 / 76 INTERVJU: ALEKSANDAR SIMIĆ UZDAM SE U ONAJ JEDAN PROCENAT ŠANSE DA POSTANEMO BOLJI I ODGOVORNIJI LJUDI

On nije ni u jednom šablonu - napisao je Iz potencijalnog šoviniste izrastate Kroz muzički doprinos, ali i na druge jednom o Aleksandru Simiću, srpskom u kosmopolitskog pacifistu. Ako je ta načine, radili ste na projektima kompozitoru koji je svoje najbolje transformacija uopšte moguća. usmerenim na pokretanje i razvoj kompozicije napisao za svetske naručioce, međureligijskog dijaloga. Ima li tu, poput UN, Vatikana, Ruske Federacije, Možda činjenica da ste očigledno (to nakon vekova koji dokazuju suprotno, Vlade USA ili NASA, takođe nešablonski jest „ušislušno“) „ostavili dušu“ u šanse za transformaciju aktuelnog novinar Branko Rosić. Neobično od kolege „Under One Roof“ čini ovo pitanje antagonističkog stanja? Možete li u Rosića da ovako uvija stvari. Jer, „On je suvišnim, ali ipak ga postavljamo. Šta to da verujete i nakon neuspešnog skroz lud!“- prvo je što, ako vam je mentalni vi mislite, gospodine Simiću, da li je pokušaja da inicirate zajedničku sklop iole krut, pomislite kada sretnete i kako moguće sve „njih“ zajedno ili molitvu muslimana, katolika, Simića. Pritom, odmah vam je jasno i da pojedinačno prevesti „na ovu stranu“? pravoslavaca i Jevreja u Sarajevu? se to „lud“ odnosi na onu kategoriju u Postoji li bilo kakva mogućnost da ovi - Pokušaj da iniciram tu molitvu desio se kojoj su Betoven, Munk, Isak Njutn, Džek užasi po svetu, koji su i nama, kao i još ’92. godine i predstavlja sam početak London, Virdžinija Vulf ili Edgar Alan Po. istoriji načelno, često „bili u gostima“, mog bavljenja nečim što se može nazvati Da li to znači da je i genije? Ne, ne, ne... konačno prestanu? međuverskim dijalogom. Poenta cele stvari Kako kompozitor da bude genije u Srbiji? U - Teoretski je svakako moguće. S druge bila je da pokažemo da ljudi u Bosni žele da ovoj zemlji taj status ne može da dobije ni strane, empirija nam govori da su šanse žive zajedno, a ne da se ubijaju međusobno, Milutin Milanković. Znači sigurno nije. Čak da kao vrsta glavu na vreme izvučemo iz i da bi najvažniji cilj svih verskih zajednica i da jeste. dupeta poprilično male. Nije jedanput u tom trenutku morao biti očuvanje mira. Bilo da ga upoznajete kroz njegovu muziku, rečeno da bi nas najverovatnije ujedinio Neuspeh te inicijative samo je deo ukupnog horsku, duhovnu, kamernu, simfonijsku, neki „zajednički izazov“, poput invazije ludila u kome su sve civilizacijske ideje kroz razgovor u kome ređa informacije, vanzemaljaca, ali do sada smo već dobro doživele potpuni debakl. To ludilo traje podatke i nove misli kao špil karata u naučili da bismo onog momenta kad i sada, 20 godina nakon što se formalno pasijansu, ili biografiju iz koje saznajete da pobijemo sve marsovce, ponovo prešli završio građanski rat između Srba i Hrvata. nema gde nije živeo i za koga nije radio, u jedni na druge. Zajednički izazovi već I dalje se misli da se netrpeljivošću i najneočekivanijim momentima započinjao odavno postoje, iako možda nemaju konfrontacijom brani katoličanstvo - ili ili završavao poslove, shvatate da je on sijaličaste glave i zelenu krv. To su pravoslavlje, tj. srpstvo ili hrvatstvo. Pritom hodajuće oličenje transformacije u njenoj klimatske promene, devastacija staništa i se potpuno apstrahuju ideje o ljubavi najpoželjnijoj formi - kreativnoj. Najbolji biosistema, terorizam, ratovi, katastrofalno prema bližnjem ili „nebližnjem“, okretanju dokaz tome je kompozicija „Under One siromaštvo i ukupan pad svih vrednosti. drugog obraza i praštanju, koje, prisetimo Roof“, koju je 2011. radio po porudžbini Ono što je zajedničko, odnosno, da tako se, predstavljaju fundament hrišćanstva, iz Ujedinjenih nacija. kažem, još „zajedničkije“ od problema sa koga su valjda nastale obe denominacije. To Laički govoreći, dok izvodi tu kompoziciju kojima se suočavamo jeste, nažalost, ono je jedan od najočiglednijih i mnogobrojnih simfonijski orkestar vas vodi na uzbudljivo što zovemo ljudskom prirodom - a u njenoj primera površne zloupotrebe religije od muzičko putovanje oko zemljine kugle. suštini očigledno postoji snažno izražena strane onih koji su suštinski neverujući, Simićeve note proleću kroz desetine tendencija ka samouništenju. Da konačno i prečestog brkanja vere i nacionalne različitih idioma, od čardaša do valcera, odgovorim na vaše pitanje - statistički pripadnosti. Premalo je prostora u vašem od tradicionalne japanske do turske gledano, šanse da sve zajedno ode dođavola časopisu da bismo u okviru odgovora muzike, noseći u sebi muzičke boje svih su ogromne, verovatno 99 posto. Opet, mi na jedno pitanje ozbiljno razgovarali nacija i instrumenata, zurli, tambura, moramo, makar i po cenu toga da budemo o komplikovanim i sveprisutnim didžeridua, kineskih erhua, irskih flauta, proglašeni za naivne, da verujemo da je implikacijama „Hantingtonovog jaza“, ali taiko bubnjeva... I šta se desi posle tih onaj jedan procenat vredan ulaganja svakog mogu da se složim s vama da je ovom svetu 18 minuta i 22 sekunde? Uvučeni na po atoma naše snage, nade i ljubavi u borbu za neophodna velika i suštinska duhovna nekoliko sekundi u dušu mnoštva nacija, opstanak ove planete. transformacija. postanete emocionalno denacionalizovani.

34 / 76 Svaka religija, na ovaj ili onaj način druge. Ali, čak i da toga ne bude - ovo je „savremenika“ su živi, a neki su već 500 tretira pitanja transformacije kroz već neprocenjivi poklon. Da li je u pitanju godina mrtvi, što ih ne čini manje mojim vaskrsenje, reikarnaciju, život, „prijemni ispit“ ili „diploma“, to ćemo savremenicima. Divim se svakom čija su slavu života posle života... Vaša saznati kada za to bude vreme. dela i život vredni divljenja. kompozicija „In memoriam“ pisana je, kako sami kažete, „u znak sećanja Još samo malo ostanimo na ovom Spadate li u one koji podržavaju na pale, vaskrsle, zaboravljene, tragu – od Jesenjina, preko Žukova do ubrzani razvoj tehnologije koja je uzveličane i bezimene“. U koju od tih pape Jovana Pavla II, vaše kompozicije transformisala ono što smo do tada „transformacija“ vi lično verujete? mahom su posvećene onima kojih više smatrali životom i dala nam mogućnost Nemojte samo reći u sve. nema. Ima li u vašem stvaralačkom biću da „vaskrsnemo“ na razne načine – - Voleo bih da ovo ovde - ovih nekoliko nota za žive, tačnije, ima li u vašem srcu pojavimo se tamo gde nikada nismo decenija voljenja, preživljavanja, nadanja, divljenja za nekog savremenika? bili, generišemo uspomene koje nismo stvaranja, spoticanja, patnje i radovanja - Papa Jovan Pavle II je bio vrlo živ kada doživeli, komuniciramo bez fizičkog - nije sve. Od čoveka koji veruje u Boga sam pisao misu povodom 25 godina prisustva? pomalo se i očekuje da veruje u nešto što njegovog pontifikata ili kada smo zajedno - Ovo vaše pitanje nije samo retoričko zovemo „zagrobnim životom“, odnosno u radili na „Rimskom triptihu“ na njegove već je i očigledno distopično, tako da opstanak duha i nakon fizičkog nestanka. stihove pisane na poljskom. Živa je bila mi ostaje samo da se složim sa time da Opet, već ono što zovemo životom i ćerka generala Žukova kojoj sam ’95. smo i tehnologiju u raznim instancama smrtnog čoveka toliko je mistično, predao kompoziciju posvećenu njenom uspeli da okrenemo protiv sebe. Ono magično i neprocenjivo u svojoj suštini ocu, kao i moja draga Olja Ivanjicki koja što važi za vatru, važi i za Nobelov da se čini pomalo bogohulnim očekivati me je nekoliko godina kasnije pozvala da dinamit, internet Tima Berners-Lija ili i podrazumevati da posle ovog života uradimo ciklus slika i solo pesama kojima Mendelov genetski inženjering - svaka dobijamo još jedan - i to, naravno, večni. bismo se 100 godina nakog njegovog tehnologija je potencijalno dobar sluga i Svakako bih voleo da se, kada umrem, rođenja i 70 godina posle smrti setili jako loš gospodar. Otuđenje jeste jedna od pridružim svojim roditeljima, babama, velikog Jesenjina, praveći omaž njegovom najeklatantnijih nuspojava tehnološkog dedama, prijateljima, kućnim ljubimcima, životu i poeziji. Smrt i život su neodvojivo napretka. i da jednog dana kao što su oni dočekali povezani. U svojoj klavirskoj sobi držim mene dočekam i ja svoju decu i unuke. Da ulje na kome je prikazan jedan „krajputaš“, Sudeći po vašem komentaru uz znamo da je „sada sve ok“, da smo konačno a na njemu pokojni učitelj Veselin koji drži kompoziciju „Uspomene iz detinjstva svi na okupu i da ne moramo više da otvorenu knjigu i poručuje: „Rodismo se da za klavir u 4 ruke“, transformacija strepimo od mogućnosti da izgubimo jedni mremo, a mremo da živimo“. Neki od mojih koju ne priželjkujete i ne preporučujete

35 / 76 jeste ona iz detinjstva u sve ono što transformiše iz „La Valse“ u „Tango plavog patlidžana, svaki tart od krušaka i podrazumeva, to jest oduzima, odraslo za nju“, ili je za tu opasnu igricu ipak čokolade posvećen je „određenoj“ ženi. I ja doba. Razgovaramo li mi sada sa potrebno dvoje? mislim da joj je to sasvim dovoljno. 40-godišnjakom ili dečakom? - Za ljubav je definitivno potrebno dvoje. - Kada sam bio mali, računao sam kako ću Ne možete toliko dugo sedeti na sopstvenoj Za kraj, još jedan inspirativan naziv 2000. imati čak 27 godina i pitao se kako ruci da utrnuta šaka zameni drugo ljudsko kompozicije: „Allegro Appassionato“. će svet izgledati u toj dalekoj budućnosti. biće. Ljudi su često bljutavo patetični i Očigledno jeste entuzijasta. Osećate li Bio sam, naravno, ubeđen da ću tada lažno poetični kada govore o ljubavi, a se zbog toga, u ovom ogrubelom društvu uveliko biti ako ne star, onda makar istinski ona je, kao i sve druge mistične kategorije, koje je tu osobinu odavno proglasilo odrastao i ozbiljan čovek. I evo - od te oličena u najjednostavnijim stvarima – detinjastom, kao, oprostite na izrazu, prelomne 2000. godine prošlo je već punih zajedničkoj postelji, gledanju TV serija budala? šesnaest leta, a ja se i dalje ne osećam udvoje, zajedničkim problemima, snovima, - Interesantno je da ste od svih kompozicija zaslužnim da ponesem titulu „odraslog zalogajima, notama. Deljenje je jedna od, koje sam ikada napisao izabrali jednu čoveka“. Valjda je normalno da kreativci čini mi se, najlegitimnijih manifestacija i jedinu koja nema programski naziv, pa pate od „Puer aeternus“ sindroma. Da nije posledica onoga što zovemo ljubavlju. čak ni programsku potku, ali razumem šta toga, ne bi bilo ni predivnih romana Marka Još jedno zapažanje – nijedna vaša vam je privuklo pažnju. Strast jeste bitan Tvena, Egziperija ili Dž. M. Barija, autora kompozicija, prema nazivu i vašim sastojak svega i ključni katalizator (al) „Petra Pana“. komentarima koji obično idu uz njih, hemijske reakcije zvane život. Važno je nije posvećena nekoj određenoj ženi. voleti i „ložiti se“. Ako aktuelna definicija Dozvolićemo sebi da vas pitamo i nešto Zašto? Da li zbog toga što sve danas pameti podrazumeva i izblaziranost, onda što nije „visokointelektualno“ (da brzo postane „Rememebering the nemam ništa protiv da budem, kako vi odmorimo malo vijuge od tempa koji Tango“? kažete, budala. prirodno namećete). Objasnite nam - Svaki moj „honey-mustard“ sendvič sa gde i kako se ljubav u vašem slučaju piletinom i avokadom, svaka musaka od

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łŌńŏľŁŒҥ
ŌŁŏLjľŋł
ύϋϋϔҤ
ńŌŁņŋłҤ ŊłŋŇľʼnł
ľŁŏłŐł
ŋľ
ňŌŇņŊľ
Ňł
LjņœłŌҥ
őľňŌ
ŐŒ
Őł
LjņœŌőľ
Ŧņŋł
ņ
ŋŇłńŌœ
ŁŏŒƨőœłŋņ
ņ
ŅŒŊľŋņőľŏŋņ
Ң
ŌŁņŋł
ύϋϋϐҤ
ŌŐŋŌœľŌ
Ňł
ľŒőŌŏŐňņ
ľŋŐľŊĿʼn
menjale i sfere njegovog interesovanja – od ľŋńľLjŊľŋҤ
ŌŁņŋľŊľ
Ňł
ōŌŏőōľŏŌʼn
ņ
ľňőņœņŐőľ
ӷłŏľȘŊņӬҤ
ŇņŅŌœņ
ƨŌŒӘōŏŌńŏľŊņ
Ŀņʼnņ
ŐŒ
őŌňŌŊ
humanitarnog fonda „Svetlost“, koji je u Srbiji ŐʼnņňľŏŐőœľ
ŁŌ
ĿņŌʼnŌńņŇłҥ
ŌŁ
ňŋŇņLjłœŋŌŐőņ
ŁŌ
ύϋϋϑҤ
ŋľ
ŏłōłŏőŌľŏŒ
ŋľ
łʼnņňŌŇ
Őŀłŋņ
ľŏŌŁŋŌń
fizike. ōŌňŏłŋŒŌ
ňľŊōľŋŇł
ōŌōŒő
ņńŒŏŋł
LjłŋŐňł
ōŌŗŌŏņƨőľ
Œ
łŌńŏľŁŒҤ
Ł
őľŁľ
Ňł
ŏľŗʼnņŦņőł
verzije istog ansambla napravio i u mnogim Ң
ŌŦłŌ
Ňł
Łľ
Ŧņőľ
ņ
ōņƨł
œłť
Őľ
Łœł
ņ
ōŌ
ńŌŁņŋłҤ
ňŒťł
ņʼnņ
ľŀņŌŋľʼnŋł
ňľŊōľŋŇł
ŗľ
ōŌŊŌť
U najranijem dobu demonstrirao je talenat slepima Srbije. U decembru 2009. pokrenuo drugim gradovima, poput Njujorka, Londona, za prirodne nauke, dok za muziku, međutim, je i projekat „Note iz Srca“, kao kampanju Ōŏņŋľҥ
ņŐľĿŌŋľҥ
łőŏŌńŏľŁľ
ņ
łʼnŅņŇľҥ
ņ
Őľ
nije pokazivao nikakvo posebno interesovanje. ŗľ
ĿłŐōʼnľőŋł
ňŒʼnőŒŏŋł
ŐľŁŏLjľŇł
ōŌŐœłťłŋł
ŋŇņŊľ
ŌŁŏLjľŌ
ŋľ
ŐőŌőņŋł
ňŌŋŀłŏľőľҤ Nekoliko nedelja pre svog petnaestog ŐőľŏņŊľҥ
ŐņŏŌŊľƨŋņŊľ
ņ
ŅłŋŁņňłōņŏľŋņŊľҤ Ң
ŌňŏłőľŦ
Ňł
ņ
ӷŁŏŒLjłŋŇľ
ŗľ
ŒŋľōŏłŬłŋŇł
rođendana dobio je na poklon „Casio“ Ң
łŌŊľ
Ňł
ŗŋľŦľŇľŋ
ņ
ŋŇłńŌœ
ŁŌōŏņŋŌŐ
ņ
ōŌōŒʼnľŏņŗľŀņŇŒ
ňʼnľŐņŦŋł
ŊŒŗņňłӬҥ
ŦņŇņ
Ňł
ņ
međureligijskom dijalogu na internacionalnom predsednik. ňľʼnňŒʼnľőŌŏҥ
ňŌŇņ
Ňł
ŊłŬŒ
őņōňľŊľ
ŋŒŊłŏņŦňł
tastature skrivao „klavijaturu“ od jedne i po ŋņœŌŒҥ
ňŏŌŗ
Ŧņőľœ
ŋņŗ
ņŋņŀņŇľőņœľ
őŌňŌŊ
ŌňőľœłҤ
łť
ōŌŐʼnł
ōłőŋľłŐő
ŊņŋŒőľ
ŋľ
ŋŇŌŇ
Ňł
œņƨł
ŌŁ
ōłőŋłľŐő
ńŌŁņŋľ
Ӗ
ŌŁ
ņŊľҥ
ōŏłňŌ
osmislio „repertoar“ od dvadesetak melodija. Konstantinopolja do Izraela, Amerike i

36 / 76

INTERVIEW: ALEKSANDAR SIMIĆ I PUT MY FAITH INTO THAT ONE PERCENT OF A CHANCE FOR US TO BECOME BETTER AND MORE RESPONSIBLE HUMANS

He is not your typical artist – said once didgeridoos, Chinese erhus, Irish flutes, 99%. Still, we must, even at the cost of about Aleksandar Simić, Serbian composer taiko drums... And what happens after being called naïve, believe that one percent who wrote his best compositions for global those 18 minutes and 22 seconds? is worth investing every molecule of our acquirers, such as the UN, Vatican, Russian Drenched into the souls of so many nations power, hope, and love into fighting for this Federation, USA Government or NASA, for just a couple of seconds, you become planet’s survival. another non-typical journalist, Branko emotionally denationalized. You grow from Rosić. It seems unlikely for my colleague a potential chauvinist into a cosmopolitan Through musical contribution, but Rosić to sugarcoat things like this. For, pacifist. If the transformation is even also in other ways, you’ve worked “He’s utterly crazy!” – That is the first thing possible. on projects dedicated to creation you think when you meet Simić if you have and development of interreligious even remotely rigid mindset. It should be Perhaps the fact that you have dialogue. Is there any chance for entirely clear to you that the “crazy” refers obviously (namely “pleasantly to the the transformation of the current to the category which holds Beethoven, ear”) “left your soul” in „Under One antagonistic state, after centuries of Munch, Isaac Newton, Jack London, Roof“ makes this question redundant, proving us wrong? Can you believe Virginia Woolf or Edgar Allan Poe. Does but we must ask anyway. What do in that, even after the unsuccessful that make him a genius? No, no, no... How you think, Mr. Simić, is it and how attempt to initiate a joint prayer can a composer be a genius in Serbia? In is it possible to switch “them” over between Muslims, Catholics, Orthodox this country, not even Milutin Milanković altogether or individually “to this and Jews in Sarajevo? could achieve that status. So then he side”? Is there any possibility to finally - The attempt to organize that prayer cannot be. Even if he were. stop with all the horrors of the world happened first in 1992, and it represents Whether you’re getting to know him that had “visited” us, and history in the very beginning of my involvement in through his music – choir, spiritual, general? something that can be called interreligious chamber, symphonic, through conversation - In theory yes. On the other hand, the dialogue. The point of that whole thing in which he arranges information, data, empiric side tells us chances are quite was to show that people in Bosnia want and new thoughts as if they were a deck of slim for us as a species to pull our heads to live together, and not kill each other cards in solitaire, or through his biography from our asses. It hasn’t been said just and that the most important goal of all from which you’re finding out there is not a once that we would most probably be religious communities should be keeping place he hasn’t lived in or people he hasn’t united by a “common challenge”, like an the peace. The failure of the initiative is worked for, started or finished jobs in the alien invasion, but we’ve learned so far just one part of total insanity in which all most unexpected moments, you’re starting that the moment we kill all the Martians, ideas of civilization have experienced a to realize he’s the walking personification we would turn against each other again. complete debacle. This madness is still of transformation in its most desirable Common challenges have long been here, going strong, 20 years after the civil war form – the creative one. The best proof for even though they might now have light between Serbs and Croats is officially it is the composition “Under One Roof”, bulb heads and green blood. Those are over. People still think they can defend which he wrote in 2011 by commission climate changes, habitat and biosystem Catholicism – or Orthodoxy, that is the from the United Nations. devastation, terrorism, wars, catastrophic feeling of being Serbian or Croat, with Speaking in layman’s terms, while poverty and total collapse of values. The intolerance and confrontation. At the performing this piece the symphonic common denominator, or, should I say, same time, people are having an entirely orchestra takes you on an exciting music more common than any of the problems we abstract idea of loving thy neighbor or travel around the globe. Simić’s notes are dealing with, is, unfortunately, what we “non-neighbor”, turning the other cheek spring through dozens of different idioms, call human nature – and in its essence lies and forgiving, which are, let us not forget, from Csárdás to Waltz, from traditional this strongly expressed tendency towards foundations of Christianity, from which Japanese to Turkish music, carrying in self-destruction. To finally give you an both denominations were born. That is one itself musical notes from all the nations answer – statistically speaking, chances for of the most visible and most used examples and instruments, zurlas, tamburas, it all to go to hell are enormous, probably of the superficial use of religion by those

38 / 76 who truly are non-believers, and of the sort of blasphemous to expect and assume called me several years later to do a cycle too frequent confusion of religion and that after this one we are getting another of paintings and solo poems to remember nationality are. There isn’t enough space in life – and an eternal one, of course. I would the great Yesenin 100 years after his birth your magazine to have a serious talk about certainly love; once I’m gone, to join my and 70 years after his death, by making an the complex and omnipresent implications parents, grandparents, friends, pets, and to homage to his life and poetry. Death and of the “Huntington gap” within one answer welcome my children and grandchildren life are inseparable. I keep an oil painting to a question, but I can agree with you that one day, the same way I was welcomed. To in my piano room depicting “krajputaš” this world needs one big and essential know that “everything is ok now”, we’re [a tombstone placed roadside - tr.], and spiritual transformation. finally all together, and we don’t have to in it, there is my late teacher Veselin fear the possibility of losing each other. holding a book and saying: “We were born Still, each religion, in one way or But, even if that’s not the case – this is to die, and we die to live”. Some of my another, treats questions about already a priceless gift. Is it an “entrance “contemporaries” are alive, and some are transformation through reincarnation, exam” or a “diploma”, we’ll have to wait dead for 500 years, which doesn’t make life, glorifying the afterlife… Your and see. them less contemporary. I admire anyone composition “In memoriam” was whose work and life are worth admiring. written, as you say it so yourself, Let’s stay on this track for just a bit “as a way to remember the fallen, longer – from Yesenin, Zhukov to Pope Are you among those who support the the resurrected, the glorified and John Paul II, your compositions are accelerated development of technology the nameless”. In which of those mostly dedicated to those that are no that has transformed what we’ve transformations do you believe? Just longer with us. Are there notes in your considered life so far and given us a don’t say in all of them. creative being for the living, that is, possibility to “resurrect” in many - I wish this situation here – these few is there admiration in your heart for ways – appear where we’ve never been decades of love, survival, hope, creation, some of your contemporaries? before, generate memories we haven’t stumbling, suffering, and happiness – isn’t - Pope John Paul II was very much alive experienced, communicate without all there is. From a man who believes in when I wrote a mass on the occasion of 25 being physically present? God, you expect him to believe in what we years of his pontificate or when we worked - This question isn’t just rhetorical, but call the “afterlife”; that is to the survival together on the “Roman a particular” distinctly dystopic too, so I must only agree of the spirit even after the physical on his verses written in Polish. General with the statement that we’ve managed disappearance. Still, what we call the life Zhukov’s daughter was alive when I gave to turn technology against us in many of a mortal man is so mystical, magical her a composition dedicated to her father instances. What goes for fire, applies to and priceless in its essence that it seems in 1995, as was my dear Olja Ivanjicki who Nobel’s dynamite, Tim Berners-Lee’s

40 / 76 internet or Mendel’s genetical engineering author of “Peter Pan”. everything today quickly becomes – each technology is potentially a great We’ll allow ourselves to ask you „Remembering the Tango“? servant and a terrible master. Alienation something that isn’t so “highly - Each of my honey-mustard sandwiches is one of the most blatant side effects of intellectual” (to give our brains a little with chicken and avocado, each eggplant technological progress. rest from the tempo you so naturally moussaka, each pear and chocolate tart is Judging by your commentary that impose). Can you explain to us where dedicated to a “particular” woman. And I accompanies the composition “Childhood and how love transforms, in your case, think that is quite enough. memories for piano by four hands”, the from “La Valsa” to “Tango for Her”, or transformation you don’t wish for, and it always takes two to tango? To conclude, another inspirational you don’t recommend is the one from - Love certainly takes two. You cannot composition title: „Allegro childhood into all that is implied, namely sit on your hand for that long for it to Appassionato“. You clearly are an taken away – adulthood. Are we now replace another human being. People are enthusiast. Do you feel like, and forgive talking to a 40-year old or a boy? often so pathetic and falsely poetic when me for using this expression, a fool, - When I was young, I realized that I talking about love, and it is depicted in the in this roughened society that has would be 27 in 2000 and wondered how simplest things, as all the other mystical long proclaimed this characteristic as the world would look like in that distant categories are – in sharing a bed together, childish? future. I was, of course, convinced that I watching TV shows together, dealing - It’s interesting you chose, out of all would certainly be if not old by that time, with problems, dreaming, eating, notes. compositions, the only one that doesn’t then indeed grown up and serious. And Sharing is one of those manifestations, I have a program title, not even a program here we are – 16 years have passed since believe, that is most legitimate, and it is the base, but I understand what triggered you. that groundbreaking year of 2000, and I’m consequence of what we call love. Passion is an essential ingredient and the still not feeling worthy of having the title key catalyst to the (al)chemical reaction of a “grown up man”. I guess it’s normal Another observation – none of your called life. It’s important to love and “feel for creative people to suffer from Puer compositions, if we look at the titles the passion”. If the current definition of aeternus syndrome. If not for that, there and your commentaries that usually being smart includes being numb, then I wouldn’t be any of the beautiful novels accompany them, aren’t dedicated to a have nothing against being called, as you by Mark Twain, Exupéry, or J. M. Barrie, particular woman. Why? Is it because say it, a fool.

Just one year later he played the late works of ľʼnňľŋŐҤ
łӯŐ
ľŋ
ľŀőņœł
ŊłŊĿłŏ
ŌŃ
őŅł
Ӭľœł
Beethoven sonatas and, as he says it himself, the Way“ foundation from New York and the he used to “swallow” musical scores and “East-West Bridge” organization based in all books dealing with classical music, from Belgrade. romanticized biographies of great composers Ң
ŏŌŊ
ύϋϋϒ
ŅłӯŐ
Ŀłłŋ
ŀŌʼnʼnľĿŌŏľőņŋń
ŔņőŅ
őŅł
to those studying counterpoint, harmony, and “Simon Wiesenthal” Center and the Office of forms. őŅł
ľŏ
ŏņŊłŐ
ŏŌŐłŀŒőŌŏ
ņŋ
őŅł
łōŒĿʼnņŀ
ŌŃ
Ң
ő
őŅł
ľńł
ŌŃ
Őņŕőłłŋҥ
Ņł
ŔľŐҥ
ľŐ
Ņł
ŔľŐ
łŏĿņľ
ŔņőŅņŋ
őŅł
ŃŏľŊłŔŌŏň
ӬŌŐʼnłŁŋŇľ
ƨľŋŐľӭ
told, too old to enroll the music school. He ӇӬ ľŐő
ŀŅľŋŀłӭӈ
Ŋłľŋő
őŌ
ōŏŌœņŁł
ŀŌŋŁņőņŌŋŐ
continued to learn by himself. Only five years to bring to justice the last survived war later, when he was in the third year of Medical criminals from World War II. School, at the urging of friends and owning Ң
ņŐ
ŊŒŐņŀ
ŅľŐ
Ŀłłŋ
ōłŏŃŌŏŊłŁ
ľő
őŅł
Œō
őŌ
ľ
Ŀłőҥ
Ņł
ŁłŀņŁłŁ
őŌ
őľňł
ŁņȔłŏłŋőņľʼn
celebration of significant jubilees such as and entrance exams at the Faculty of Music ώϋϋ
ŖłľŏŐ
ŌŃ
őŅł
ŀņőŖ
ŌŃ
ľņŋő
łőłŏŐĿŒŏńҥ
ύϋϋ
in Belgrade. He got one hundred points on years of Serbian statehood, 60 years of the each of the nearly twenty exams and ended Holocaust or the 4th anniversary of the attack Œō
Ŀłņŋń
őŅł
ȘŏŐő
Ōŋ
őŅł
ʼnņŐőҤ
Ņľő
ņŐ
ŅŌŔ
Ņł
Ōŋ
őŅł
ŌŏʼnŁ
ŏľŁł
łŋőłŏҥ
ľŐ
Ŕłʼnʼn
ľŐ
ŐŌŊł
“officially” became a composer. He started important meetings, such as the Ecumenical was born in Belgrade in Ң
ʼnłňŐľŋŁľŏ
ņŊņť
to write, perform and produce his music Councils of the Orthodox ecumenism. 1973. He grew up in a family where his father, professionally, and his opus number and Ң
ł
ŅľŐ
Ŕŏņőőłŋ
ŊŒŐņŀ
ŃŌŏ
Ōœłŏ
ύϋ
ōʼnľŖŐ
director, and grandfather, lawyer, cultivated reputation slowly grew. and has worked for the first time as a movie a cosmopolitan spirit and stood up for values Ң
łŐņŁłŐ
ŊŒŐņŀҥ
ľŋ
ņŊōŌŏőľŋő
ōľŏő
ŌŃ
composer on the set of the movie “Optimisti” such as fighting for human rights. ņŊņťӯŐ
ʼnņŃł
ľŏł
ŅņŐ
ŐŌŀņľʼn
ľŋŁ
ŅŒŊľŋņőľŏņľŋ
ӇӬŅł
ōőņŊņŐőŐӭӈ
ĿŖ
Ōŏľŋ
ľŐňľʼnŇłœņťҤ
ł
Ң
ł
Őōłŋő
ŊŌŐő
ŌŃ
ŅņŐ
ʼnņŃł
ľő
ŁņȔłŏłŋő
engagements. For years he has been ŔŏŌőł
őŅł
ōņłŀł
ӬŅł
łľŏő
ŌŃ
őŅł
ŋņœłŏŐłӭ
addresses, from Singapore to USA’s West the spokesperson and activist for the Ӗ
őŅł
Ōșŀņľʼn
ľŋőŅłŊ
ŌŃ
őŅł
ύϐőŅ
ŋņœłŏŐņľŁł
Coast. And as the addresses changed, so did ŅŒŊľŋņőľŏņľŋ
ŃŒŋŁ
ӬœłőʼnŌŐőӭ
ӇӬŅł
ņńŅőӭӈҥ
held in Belgrade in 2009. the areas of his interest – from art to biology, that has launched campaigns such as the Ң
ŋ
ύϋϋϐ
Ņł
ŃŌŒŋŁłŁ
őŅł
ľŒőŅŌŏ
łŋŐłŊĿʼnł
from literature to physics. Women’s Shelter or the National campaign to ӬŅł
łŏľōŅņŊӭҤ
Œŏņŋń
ύϋϋϑ
őŅłņŏ
ŐŅŌŔŐ
Ң
ł
ŐőľŏőłŁ
őŌ
ŏłľŁ
ľŋŁ
Ŕŏņőł
ŔŅłŋ
ŔľŐ
ŌŋʼnŖ
Ņłʼnō
őŅł
ŐņńŅő
ņŊōľņŏłŁ
ņŋ
łŏĿņľҤ
ŋ
łŀłŊĿłŏ
Ŕłŏł
ņŋ
őŅł
ŏłōłŏőŌņŏł
ľő
őŅł
ŏľŋŁ
ŀłŋł
ŌŃ
two and a half years old. He expressed, from of 2009, he started a project “Note iz srca” őŅł
ľőņŌŋľʼn
Ņłľőŏł
ņŋ
łʼnńŏľŁłҤ
ņŋŀł
őŅłŋ
the earliest age, his talent for science, while ӇӬŌőłŐ
ŃŏŌŊ
őŅł
łľŏőӭӈҥ
ľŐ
ľ
ŀľŊōľņńŋ
őŌ
Ņł
ŅľŐ
ŊľŁł
ŁņȔłŏłŋő
œłŏŐņŌŋŐ
ŌŃ
őŅł
ŐľŊł
he showed no particular interest in music. A ŌȔłŏ
Ńŏłł
ŀŒʼnőŒŏľʼn
łœłŋőŐ
ŁłŁņŀľőłŁ
őŌ
őŅł
ensemble in many other cities, such as New couple of weeks before his fifteenth birthday elderly, economically disadvantaged and Ōŏňҥ
ŌŋŁŌŋҥ
Œŏņŋҥ
ņŐĿŌŋҥ
ľņŋő
łőłŏŐĿŒŏń
he got a Casio calculator as a gift, which “hid” physically challenged. ľŋŁ
łʼnŅņҥ
ľŋŁ
ŅłʼnŁ
ŅŒŋŁŏłŁŐ
ŌŃ
ŀŌŋŀłŏőŐ
ŔņőŅ
under the numeric keypad keys a “keyboard” Ң
ņŐ
ŀŌŋőŏņĿŒőņŌŋ
őŌ
őŅł
ņŋőłŏŏłʼnņńņŌŒŐ
them. of one and a half octave. Fifteen minutes dialogue is also of great importance on an Ң
ł
ņŐ
őŅł
ŃŌŒŋŁłŏ
ľŋŁ
őŅł
ōŏłŐņŁłŋő
ŌŃ
ʼnľőłŏ
Ņł
ŅľŁ
ľʼnŏłľŁŖ
ŀŌŊł
Œō
ŔņőŅ
ľ
όϐӘőŒŋł
international level, through series of initiatives the Association for the promotion and repertoire. ŃŌŏ
ŊŌŏł
őŅľŋ
ȘŃőłłŋ
ŖłľŏŐ
Ӗ
ŃŏŌŊ
ŌŊł
popularization of classical music. Ң



ł
ńŌő
ľ
ōņľŋŌ
ŃŌŏ
ŅņŐ
ȘŃőłłŋőŅ
ĿņŏőŅŁľŖҤ
via Constantinople to Israel, USA, and the

41 / 76 LUNA LU RAVNOSUŠTNI

U pesmi „Dvoje“ Marine Cvetajeve, cvetne printove i roze boju, a devojke može dosta naučiti, posebno iz domena u prevodu Danila Kiša, postoji izraz motociklističke muške jakne i mirišu na - kako ne. Najmoćniju vlasnicu hiljadu - ravnosuštan. Po suštini svoje duše muške mirisne note. Zaista, kako odoleti inspirativnih faza teško je ponekad - ravnopravan, taj neko. „U svetu gde „Crnoj orhideji“ Toma Forda? gledati kao tinejdžerku. Od nje očekujem zgrbljen, / i zapanjen svak je, / znam - tek Kod nas, kao i u većini patrijarhalnih jasan i direktan stav o stanju ugroženih jedan mi je / jednake snage. / U svetu gde društava, još uvek se navikavamo da umetničkih sloboda, jer ona ima moć toliko / mnogo se hoće, / znam - tek jedan dokažemo da smo ravnopravne. Društvo i vidljivost, i baš mi bude teško da je mi je / jednake moći. / U svetu gde sve nam je u transformaciji, pa da ne hitam gledam nezrelu dok sisa palac i obraća se zri, / u buđ i bršljan, / znam- samo si ti / pred rudu zaključcima. Za početak, volela histeričnim uzvikom: „Bič, aj em Madona“. ravnosuštan meni.“ bih da se devojke koje imaju kratku kosu Uvek sam volela da forsiram da je ona Živimo u eri gde se mnogo toga dešava na i šik dečačke frizure ne nazivaju ružnim umetnica, a onda me iznova iznenadi temu roda. Na globalnom planu - Brus imenima. Kada sam bila mala, zamišljala površnim poimanjem sebe kao pop zvezde. Džener je postao Kejtlin i tako učinio sam da ćemo leteti svemirom u udobnim Ali jedno smo od nje naučili - lepo je vidljivom problematiku transdžender kombinezonima, nositi srebrne čizme poigravati se. zajednice. Ru Pol već nekoliko sezona i komunicirati telepatski - tome me je Stoga - lepo je videti cvet na muškom svojim rijaliti formatom „Drag Race“ učio Zigi, bog transformacije - Dejvid. reveru, kao što nema ničeg seksepilnijeg unosi revolucionarne make-up tehnike Ispraćamo izložbu „Belgrade to Bowie“, tu od žene u beloj muškoj košulji kako mazna u svakodnevicu. Tako je, na primer, se jasno mogao videti taj njegov dar da se gleda jutarnje prizore. Ili slike kako ona „strobing“ tehnika - poigravanje sa menja. Kako i sama zrim, primećujem do u muškom odelu skrojenom po meri i na iluminatorima - direktno stigla sa koje mere se ja menjam. Jako je intenzivno, visokim potpeticama dominira ulicama. „trandža“ scene, baš kao i forsiranje kao onomad kada beše pubertet. Ta Uvek mi je bilo veoma seksi kada bi Džoniju veštačkih trepavica. transformacija je veoma zanimljiva i Depu ćerka namazala nokte, on je sa takvim Hipsterski trenutak u kome svi živimo snažna, i potpuno je u rukama prirode, šarmom nosio taj manikir. Život kratko doneo je mnogo više uniseks odevnih ništa ne zavisi od moje volje i odluke. Sve traje, ne treba ga uzimati preozbiljno jer predmeta. Postalo je potpuno normalno više shvatam koliko je važno imati uzore je mnogo težak, i samim tim valja koristiti da se devojke snabdevaju na muškim koji su svoje sazrevanje ispratili sa stilom - svaku priliku i preispitati sopstvene uloge odeljenjima. Uopšte, muška moda je kako kreativno, tako i u vizuelnom smislu, u njemu, i barem ponekad kostimografski uzbudljiva, smela, poigrava se teksturama, naravno i modnom. Dejvid je svakako to zameniti rod i broj. Makar na jedno printovima, proporcijama. S druge strane, izveo dostojanstveno, veoma lukavo, sa popodne. mnogi stilisti muških modnih magazina dosta humora. služe se detaljima iz ženskih kolekcija. Sve Helen Miren je potpuna kraljica te se izmešalo. Muškarci nose helanke i brade, discipline, dok se na Madoninom primeru

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LUNA LU THE ONES WITH THE SAME POWER

In the poem “The Pair” by Marina pink, and girls men’s biker jackets and they from Madonna’s case, especially in the Tsvetaeva, translated by Danila Kiš, there smell of men’s perfume. Really, how can field of how not to do things. It’s hard is a phrase – “the one who has my power”. you resist Tom Ford’s “Black Orchid”? sometimes to look at the most powerful The one whose soul matches hers – her In our country, as in the majority of owner of a thousand inspirational phases equal, that somebody. “In a world where patriarchal societies, we are still getting as a teenager. I expect a vigorous and hunched and, / Lathered everybody is, / I used to proving we are equal. Our society direct attitude from her on the state of know – there is one / Who has my power. / is transforming, so I don’t want to jump to endangered works of art, because she has In a world where we / Desire so much, / I any conclusions. For starters, I’d love for power and visibility, and it gets so painful know – there is one / Who has my power”. girls who have short hair and chic boyish watching her all immature while sucking We are living in an era where there is so hairstyles not to be called ugly names. her thumb and talking in a hysterical voice: much going on the gender subject. On a When I was little, I used to imagine us “Bitch, I’m Madonna”. global level – Bruce Jenner became Caitlyn flying through space wearing comfortable I’ve always liked to force the fact she was an thus making visible all the problems suits, in silver boots and communicating artist, and then she continues to surprise transgender community is facing. RuPaul telepathically – Ziggy taught me that, the me with this superficial understanding of has been introducing in everyday life, for god of transformation – David. We are herself as a pop star. But there is one thing several years now, groundbreaking makeup saying goodbye to the “Belgrade to Bowie” we’ve learned from here – it’s nice to play techniques with his reality show “RuPaul’s exhibition; there you could clearly see his up. Drag Race”. That is how the “strobing” ability to transform. As I’m getting more Therefore – it’s nice to see a flower on a technique – stepping up the game of mature myself, I’m starting to see to which man’s lapel, as there is nothing sexier than illuminators – came to us directly from the extent I’m changing. It’s so intensive, as a woman in a white men’s shirt looking “trans” scene, as well as the overuse of false was puberty was. That transformation is so through windows in the morning all cuddly. eyelashes. exciting and strong, and it lies completely Or an image of her in a men’s tailored suit The hipster moment in which we are living in Nature’s arms, nothing depends on of my and high heels dominating the streets. has brought us more unisex clothing. It’s will or decisions. I realize more and more I’ve always found it sexy when Johnny now completely normal for girls to shop at how important it is to have role models Depp’s daughter would paint his nails; he men’s section. Generally speaking, men’s who accompanied their maturing with was wearing that manicure with such a fashion is exciting, bold, plays up the style – in a creative and visual sense as well, charm. Life is short, and you shouldn’t take textures, prints, proportions. On the other and fashion one, of course. David certainly it too seriously because it is so difficult, and hand, many stylists working for men’s managed to do it with dignity, very cleverly, therefore you should take each opportunity magazines are using some details from and with lots of humor. and challenge your own role in it, and at women’s collections. Everything is mixed. Helen Mirren is the absolute queen of least once in a while switch up gender and Men wear tights and beards, florals and this discipline, while you can learn a lot size. At least for one afternoon.

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PLEASE MOVe

I AM IN T RANSI TION

Fotograf: Mika Knežević Ass fotografa: Braca Nadeždić Modni urednik: Ashok Murty Organizacija: Nina Reljić Šminka: Aleksandar Djikić Frizura: Ivan @ ID Hair Academy Ass styling: Jelena Božić, Jelena Djukanović Manekeni: Ivana S. i Marijana S.@foxmodels STYLE

OUTLET

Movem Fashion Outlet, smešten u okviru Movem Fashion Outlet, located in the Fashion Park Outlet centra Inđija, u svojoj ponudi ima brendove Fashion Park Outlet Center in Inđija, offers brands such as Hugo Boss, Canali, Trussardi, Joop, Enrico Coveri, Soldini i Hugo Boss, Canali, Trussardi, Joop, Enrico Coveri, Soldini and Emanuele Curci. Emanuele Curci. U Movem Fashion Outlet prodavnici možete naći In the Movem Fashion Outlet store, you can find artikle iz muške i ženske kolekcije brendova iz proteklih sezona. pieces from men’s and women’s collections of these brands from Svi proizvodi imaju snižene cene, od 30 do 70% popusta, past seasons. All items have reduced prices, from 30% to 70% u odnosu na prvobitnu maloprodajnu cenu. discount compared to original retail prices. Pored stalnog popusta, organizovaćemo i brojne In addition to the permanent discount, we will also organize promocije o kojima ćemo Vas redovno obaveštavati. numerous promotions of which we will keep you informed. Ponuđeni primeri su samo ilustracija idealnog stajlinga koji These examples we are offering you here are just an illustration možete odabrati uz kupovinu po specijalnim cenama of a perfect styling you can choose while shopping at u Movem Fashion Outlet-u. special prices in the Movem Fashion Outlet.

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GORAN RADOVIĆ DRAGA, KO ŽELIŠ DA BUDEM?

Uz pomoć mejkapa, makaza i farbe, kozmetičara ili dobre kreme, žene mogu drastično da promene izgled. Sa malo sreće i znanja i nabolje. Ali, šta je s muškarcima? Jesu li i dalje osuđeni samo na ono što im je majka priroda podarila?

Da li ste ikada razmišljali koliko je rešenje je bežanija u kupatilo, brzinski sekirom češljan. Kolonjska voda više je budalast muški aksiom (to jest kuknjava) rad koji će učiniti da makar podsećate na podsećala na antiseptik posle ranjavanja o različitosti žene sa kojom ležu i sa sinoćno izdanje. i komotno je mogao da se cimne cug, kojom se bude. Govorim o sitnoj zlobi Otkud sad ova priča? Pa, osim raznih čisto da se pročisti grlo. Brijanje glave, svojstvenoj muškarcima kada prijateljima „izama“ (feminizam, šovinizam...), kroz ukoliko ste imali problem sa „odbeglom“ prepričavanju kako ona izgleda kada ujutru decenije minulog veka do današnjeg kosom, garantovano vam je obezbeđivalo spadne sav onaj „malter“ montiran za vremena drastično su se menjali i načini mentalnu ustanovu i lobotomiju. Perika, izlazak prethodne noći. „Čoveče, ili sam za „remont“ muškaraca. Mnogo toga se iako se pouzdano zna da je često bila bio mnogo pijan, ili se ona prerušava kao za davnih dana nije smelo. Nametnuti udobno stanište vaški, u tom slučaju je bila Sijuks“, rečenica je koju ćete često čuti u tabui bili su vrsta opšteprihvaćenog neizbežna. I komična, razume se. muškom društvu na (pre)podnevnoj kafi. kodeksa čije nepoštovanje je značilo u Danas, proces je potpuno inverzivan. U redu, ljudi se zabavljaju, možda najmanju ruku porugu, ako ne i potpuno Glavu briju i oni koji nemaju problem sa nedostaje malo gospodskog šmeka, ali... izopštavanje iz miljea „muškog sveta“. Da kosom, a perike još samo nose u Haškom Jedini, pravi, problem ovde je što vizuelni ne zavirujemo baš predaleko u istoriju, tribunalu. Ne kažemo da i tridesetih nije šok zvani „jutro posle“ mogu da dožive i kada se, recimo, kokošji izmet koristio bilo izuzetaka, poput Klarka Gejbla ili žene. Kosa ogrezla u briljantin za noćni kao lek protiv gubitka kose, a muškarci Džona Vejna, ali većina muškaraca svojim lov ujutru može izledati poput bivoljih se kupali jednom godišnje, obično u maju izgledom gradila je samo obezličenu, rogova, brižljivo trimovana brada kao (miris proleća). Dvadesetih i tridesetih jednoličnu i dosadnu masu. zapušteni korov, a negovano lice kao bojno godina prošlog veka „remont“ je najčešće polje nakon razmene artiljerijske paljbe. podrazumevao striktni spisak: berbersku Od banane do čirokija I šta sad? I ona ima pravo da „ubaci“ koju radnju, lice obrijano tri milimetra Stvari su počele da se menjaju pedesetih sa čašu više. Naravno, u oba slučaja najčešće ispod kože i razdeljak posred glave. Ko pojavom Marlona Branda i Elvisa Prislija.

58 / 76 Čuvena „marlonka“, frizura na kojoj jedan i hrabrost da povremeno dobijete batine. postala stega oslobođena, negovana vrsta. pramen nehajno pada preko čela, i Elvisova Bila je to najradikalnija demokratizacija Štaviše, verovatnije je da bi ih pre samo „banana“ na glavi utrle su put istinskoj muškog izgleda do današnjih dana. pedeset godina zbog depilacije spaljivali transformaciji muškarca. Razume se da kao srednjovekovne veštice, a zbog odlaska su Bitlsi sa svojim bubi frizurama bili Demokratija, ali ne po svaku cenu (to jest otkrivanja da tamo odlaze) kod noćna mora za kapitalističku doktrinu Deceniju kasnije – osamdesetih, s jedne pedikira i manikira, čupali nokte. Zatezanje o najboljem od svih uređenja, ali su strane novi romantizam stidljivo će i plastična hirurgija umeju da deluju dramatične socijalne i društvene promene, promovisati nešto što će se mnogo kasnije goteskno kao u slučaju Mikija Rurka, ali bujanje rok kulture i antiratni aktivizam nazvati metroseksualnošću. Sajmon le Bon ti zahvati su nekada bili neprihvatljivi i učinili da muškarci puste na volju i kosama i gomila njegovih sledbenika šatiranjem za žene, a kamoli muškarce. Uostalom, i bradama. I to u svim dužinama i oblicima. kose zagazili su u do tada isključivo ženski niko ne može da diktira velikom Marku E sad, nije baš da je tu bilo neke preterane zabran. Nešto nismo videli da je to ženama Džejkobsu šta će činiti sa svojim telom i nege, gotovo da se uopšte nije vežbalo, na smetalo? Upravo suprotno. S druge strane, odelom. Upravo suprotno, on je taj koji ceni je bilo bildovanje mozga, pa su zato te godine iznedrile su i kulturu teretana diktira. status ikona imali Lenon, Morison i Džeger. i kult tela. Dečaci širom sveta želeli su da Aleluja - muška nega i lepota su se Ako su šezdesete uzdrmale establišment, izgledaju kao Silvester Stalone ili Arnold demokratizovale, a na vama je da u epohi sedamdesete i pojava panka kao Švarceneger koji su snagom mišića potpune slobode, ili anarhije, kako hoćete, najekstremnijeg oblika bunta uglavnom spasavali svet. odlučite želite li da budete Mark Džejkobs, radničke omladine vizuelno je dotukla Čitav ovaj evolutivni tok omogućio Džimi Din, Bred Pit, Dejvid Bekam, Hemfri „fini svet“. Za „čiroki“ frizure, ofarbane je pojavu muškaraca današnjice. Bogart, Rajan Gosling... kreste, kožu i lance nije vam bio potreban Oni nisu samonikla biljka koja je od bogzna kakav napor, već samo malo tutkala srednjovekovnog vašljivca odjednom

59 / 76 GORAN RADOVIĆ Honey, who do you want me to be?

With the help of makeup, scissors and hair dye, beauticians or an efficient cream women can drastically alter their looks. With some luck and knowledge even for the better. But, what about men? Are they still stuck with what Mother Nature has given them?

Have you ever thought how foolish this battlefield after the exchange of artillery for hair loss, and men bathed once a year, male axiom (or should we call it wailing) fire. And now what? She also has the right usually in May (the smell of spring). In about the differences between the woman to have that one more drink. Of course, in the 20s and 30s of the last century being they lay in bed at night with and the one both cases, the most common way to deal “groomed” meant having to check a strict they wake up to is? I’m talking about small with this is going straight to the bathroom list: a barber shop, face shaved three pettiness typical of men when they tell and having a quick touch up to make you millimeters beneath the skin and having their friends how she looks in the morning look at least a bit like your last night’s self. the part right in the middle of your head. As when all that “face paint” from last night is How did I come up with this story right if your hair was cut with an ax. The cologne off. “Man, I was either really drunk, or she now? Well, besides different “-isms” was more reminiscent of an antiseptic after plays dress up as a Sioux” is a sentence you (feminism, chauvinism, …), through last being wounded, and you could easily take will often hear in a male company during century’s decades up until today ways a sip of it, just to clear your throat. Shaving morning or afternoon coffee. to make the men look “groomed” have your head, if you were having an issue with OK, people are having fun, maybe they drastically changed. There were a lot of “runaway” hair, guaranteed you a trip to a lack a bit of a gentleman’s charm, but… things that weren’t allowed in the past. mental institution and lobotomy to go with The actual problem here is that the visual Imposed taboos were some generally it. Wigs, even though it was an everyday shock called “the morning after” can be accepted code of whose irreverence fact represented a comfortable habitat for experienced by both men and women alike. provoked reproach at the very least, if not lice, were inevitable in those cases. And Hair full of grease ready for a night on the outright ostracism from the milieu of the comical, of course. town in the morning may look more like “man’s world”. Not to go too far down in Today, the process is entirely inversive. buffalo horns, carefully trimmed beard as history, at the time when, for example, Men who don’t have hair loss issues shave unkempt weed, and nourished skin as a chicken droppings were used as a cure their heads, and wigs are still worn only

60 / 76 at the Hague Tribunal. Not to say there the 70s and the birth of punk as the most emergence of the male appearance we weren’t any exceptions in the 30s, such extreme form of rebellion of mostly know today. The man of today isn’t some as Clark Gable or John Wayne, but most working class youth had visually beaten to wild plant that simply emerged from men were contributing with their looks to the ground the “posh people”. You didn’t lice-infested man it once was to become the making of a vacant, monotonous and need to put much effort into Cherokee this freed-from-constraints kept species boring mass. hairstyle, colored crests, leather and men are today. Moreover, it is likely just chains, just some glue and some courage fifty years ago men would get burned as From bananas to Cherokees to endure an occasional beating. It was the medieval witches because of waxing, and Things started to change in the 50s with most radical democratization of the male get their nails torn for going (of revealing men such as Marlon Brando and Elvis appearance up to the present day. to go) to get their manicures and pedicures Presley. The famous “Marlon Brando” done. Facelifts and plastic surgery may haircut with one strand of hair casually Democracy, but not at any cost end up looking grotesque as in the case falling over the forehead, and Elvis’s A decade later - the 80s, on one hand, of Mickey Rourke, but those procedures “banana” paved the way to real male the new romanticism will shyly promote were once unacceptable for women also, let transformation. Of course, the Beatles something that would later be caller alone men. In any case, nobody can dictate with their hairstyles were a nightmare for metrosexuality. Simon Le Bon and a to the great Marc Jacobs what he will do capitalistic doctrine about the best of all bunch of his followers were stepping into with his body and outfits. On the contrary, arrangements, but dramatic social change, up to then strictly female territory by he’s the one dictating it. proliferation of rock culture and anti-war highlighting their hair. Women didn’t seem Hallelujah - male care and beauty have activism made men do whatever they to mind, didn’t they? Quite the contrary. been democratized, and it’s up to you to wanted with their hair and beards. In all On the other hand, those years gave rise decide, in this time of complete freedom, shaped and sizes. Now, it’s not like there to the gym culture and the cult of the or anarchy, as you will, if you want to be was any particular care involved, hardly body. Boys from all over the world wanted Marc Jacobs, Jimmy Dean, Brad Pitt, any exercise, building your brains was what to look like Sylvester Stallone or Arnold David Beckham, Humphrey Bogart, Ryan counted, and so the icon status belonged to Schwarzenegger who used the strength of Gosling, … Lennon, Morrison, and Jagger. their muscles to save the world. If the 60s had shaken the establishment, All this evolutionary flow enabled the Ove sezone frizeri su svoju inspiraciju pronašli u prirodi i prirodnim materijalima. Opčinjeni bojom i teksturom različitih vrsta tekstila, vune, This season hairdressers have kašmira, svile, kože, somota i found their inspiration in luksuznog krzna preneli su svoje nature and natural materials. ideje na kosu. Fascinated by color and texture Aktuelne su sve dužine kose of various types of textile, wool, NATURALNO od kratkog, mekog boba do cashmere, silk, leather, velvet duge ravne ili stepenaste kose. and luxurious fur, they’ve Simetrične i sređene lokne transferred their ideas to hair. zamenili su opušteni talasi, All cuts are in trend, from short, efekti raspletenih pletenica, soft bob to long and straight or prirodne kovrdže. Poenta je da stepped haircuts. Symmetrical frizura izgleda nedovršeno, a and made up curls have been ipak luksuzno. replaced by relaxed waves, loose Više nije potrebno da provedete braids effects, natural curls. sate ispred ogledala! Dovoljno The point is for the hair to look je da odgovarajućim stajling undone, yet luxurious. proizvodom naglasite svoju There’s no need for you to be prirodnu teksturu, izgužvate spending countless hours in rukama, oblikujete po koji talas front of the mirror! You just have ili raspletete pletenicu i dobićete to use the right styling tools to savršen izgled za svaku priliku. enhance your natural texture, Kolor koji prati ovogodišnji mess up the hair using your trend je takođe, inspirisan hands, make a few waves or loose prirodom. Preovlađuju hladni a braid or two, and you’ll get the tonovi od pepeljasto plave perfect look for any occasion. do hladne, platinaste, tamno The coloring which is following brinet, boje kafe, ticijan crveni. this trend is also inspired by Spektar boja je neograničen kao nature. Cold tones from ashy i kombinacija različitih nijansi blonde to cold, platinum, dark boje dima, bisera, čelično sive, brunette, coffee, and Titian red maslinaste, violet. tones are prevailing. The color Kada je jača polovina u pitanju spectrum has no limits nor preporučujemo barber style do combinations of different look, koji je uvek u trendu i nuances of smoke, pearl, steel najpopularnija muška frizura u gray, olive, violet. našem salonu, sa nešto novijim When it comes to stronger sex tehnikama šišanja i stilizovanja. we recommend the barber style Ova frizura ima šarm, perfekciju, look, which is always on trend, stil, moderna je i veoma muški, and it is the most popular men’s macho orijentisana. Za one haircut in our salon, with the koji vole nešto prirodniji addition of newer techniques izgled u trendu je duža kosa, of cutting and styling. This šiške, prirodna talasasta kosa, hairstyle has charm, perfection, volumen. style; it’s modern and very Za koji god trend se odlučili, masculine and macho oriented. svoju kosu prepustite For those who prefer a more profesionalcima. ID Hair natural look longer hair, bangs, Academy i njen tim iskusnih i naturally wavy hair with volume profesionalnih frizera za svakog is quite trendy as well. klijenta ima posebnu formulu No matter which trend you go savršenog izgleda. Zato dođite for, let professionals deal with kod nas! your hair. ID Hair Academy and its team of experienced and professional hairdressers have a unique formula for a perfect look for each of our clients. So come to our salon!

Fb: ID Hair Academy Instagram: id_hairacademy

62 / 76 JEDINA ISTORIJA UMETNOSTI ZA NAJMLAĐE Dva toma sa 60 najznačajnijih svetskih dela i umetnika svih epoha.

U SVIM VEĆIM KNJIŽARAMA www.datastatus.rs

Šta je, zapravo, umetnost? način edukuje i podstiče What is art? to today’s generations, in Da li doterivanje može da mlade da na izvanrednim Could beautifying yourself a fun and interactive way, bude umetnost? Kako biste primerima iz viševekovne be considered as art? How the book educates and naslikali brzinu? U čemu je tradicije slikarstva, skulpture would you make a painting encourages young people tajna Mona Lize? Ko je od i fotografije shvate i representing speed? What to understand and question žvrljotine napravio remek preispituju različite ideje, is Mona Lisa’s secret? different ideas, meanings, delo? Može li sakupljanje značenja, uloge i funkcije Who turned scribbles roles and function of art kojekakvih stvari biti umetnosti. into a masterpiece? Could while using extraordinary umetnost? Kakva je to Jednostavna, jasno napisana collecting things be called examples of the centuries- skulptura koja nestaje? i bogato ilustrovana art? What is a missing long tradition of painting, Ovo su samo neka od brojnih reprodukcijama umetničkih sculpture? sculpture, and photography. pitanja na koja odgovara dela, „Knjiga o umetnosti These are just some of the Written in a simple and „Knjiga o umetnosti za za decu” predstavlja savršen many questions you can easily understandable decu”. U dva toma (Bela & uvod za sve koji započinju find an answer to in the way, richly illustrated Žuta knjiga), ovo licencno upoznavanje sa umetnošću “Children’s art book”. In with reproductions izdanje izdavačke kuće i žele da obogate znanje u two volumes (White & Yellow of masterpieces, the Phaidon Press istražuje ovoj oblasti. Prevedena je na book), this licensed edition “Children’s art book” izbore i stavove šezdeset mnoge svetske jezike, a kod by the publishing house represents a perfect svetskih umetnika koji nas ju je objavila izdavačka Phaidon Press explores introduction for all of those su stvarali u različitim kuća Data Status kao choices and attitudes of sixty wanting to start getting to epohama, dok istovremeno, ekskluzivni nosilac prava za international artists who know what art is and wanting na primerima njihovih izdanje na srpskom jeziku. created in different time to enrich their knowledge najznačajnijih dela periods, while at the same on the topic. The book stimuliše dečju kreativnost time, stimulates children’s was translated into many i sposobnost imaginacije. creativity and capacity for different languages, and it Spajajući istoriju umetnosti imagination by showing the was published in Serbia by sa temama koje su bliske examples of artists’ most the publishing house Data današnjim generacijama, famous pieces. By combining Status, holding exclusive na zabavan i interaktivan art history with topics close rights of the Serbian edition.

63 / 76 INTERVJU: IGOR BELOŠEVIĆ OD PUTERA I SOLI DO SAVRŠENSTVA NA TANJIRU

Pažnju šire javnosti mladi beogradski kuvar Pred žiri za istočnoevropski region izašli ste sa estetika, jer prvo „jedete očima“, ali na kraju, kad Igor Belošević skrenuo je onog momenta receptom „karakačanska jagnjetina“. Većina sagledate celo jelo, ono što na vas ostavlja utisak kada je dobio laskavi poziv za učešće u vaših konkurenata nije „igrala“ na lokalni upravo je taj ukus. najrenomiranijem svetskom takmičenju za specijalitet. Koja priča stoji iza ovog recepta i Šta biste danas izabrali za ručak? kuvare starosti do 30 godina - „San Pellegrino zašto vam je važna? - Neki dobar komad morske ribe. Young Chef 2016“ (faza takmičenja za - Odlučio sam se za ovo jelo pre svega jer je u A za večeru? istočnoevropski region). Ali, i pre toga mnogi propozicijama takmičenja stajalo da bi bilo - Tanjir izabranih sireva, pršute, sardela i voća, „srećnici“ znali su da iz njegove kuhinje na sto poželjno da namirnice koje takmičar koristi uz čašu vina. dolaze „dela“ u kojima se uživa i očima i čulom budu autohtone iz zemlje iz koje dolazi. Koje jelo najčešće naručujete u restoranu? ukusa. „Karakačanska jagnjetina“ sadrži evoluciju - S obzirom na to da se bavim ovim poslom i srpske kuhinje kroz vekove, od doba Nemanjića da nemam puno vremena da često obilazim Kada biste vi pisali obrazloženje zašto pa do danas, prezentovanu na moderan način. restorane, obično ono što jedem zavisi od tipa pozivate Igora Beloševića u prestižno društvo Tu možete naći bulgur kašu koja se jela noć restorana u kom se nalazim. Ako je u pitanju kao što je „San Pellegrino Young Chef“, šta pred Kosovski boj po naređenju cara Lazara. nacionalni tip, onda je moj izbor, recimo, roštilj. biste napisali? Onda jagnjeću plećku koja je sporo kuvana u Kada prvi put odete u neki restoran, tražite li - Zato što volim da kuvam. Zato što prihvatam vakuumu, a potom zapečena da bi dobila „efekat“ da upoznate kuvara, ili idete na mesta gde ih izazove u svom poslu. Zato što sam uvek jagnjetine ispod sača, što je jedan od najstarijih već poznajete? spreman da učim. I na kraju, zato što sve to načina spremanja mesa u Srbiji. Na istom tanjiru - Volim da posećujem restorane u kojima rade umem da pokažem na tanjiru. je i rolovana jagnjetina, koja predstavlja malo moje kolege sa kojima se družim, a ako sam u Ko vas od sedam veličanstvenih u žiriju ovog savremeniji način naše pripreme mesa. I na nekom ozbiljnijem restoranu u inostranstvu i takmičenja (Gagan Anand, Elena Arzak, kraju, kao moderan detalj, pohovane jagnjeće ako postoji mogućnost, zadovoljstvo mi je da Mauro Kolagreko, Karlo Krako, Vajli Difren, krezle u brašnu od žira na musu od magarećeg upoznam šefa kuhinje i da sa njim razmenim Dejvid Higs i Roberta Sudbrak) najviše sira i pire od koprive kuvane u pčelinjem vosku, mišljenje. impresionira i zašto? jer, u Srbiji se pre 300–400 godina kuvalo u Kako inače birate restorane u koje idete? - Svi pomenuti šefovi su vrhunski profesionalci. vosku, a zatim su se namirnice njime i zalivale - Zavisi od toga koliko sam gladan. Volim da Uostalom, u suprotnom ne bi ni bili tu gde jesu. zbog čuvanja, pošto tada nisu postojali rashladni obilazim restorane u kojima pre nisam bio i da Ako bih morao nekoga da izdvojim, to bi bili uređaji. probam nove stvari, samim tim i da budem u Gagan Anand i Elena Arzak. Gagan zbog toga Ovaj recept kao da je na tragu naše teme – toku sa trenutnom situacijom na gastronomskoj što dolazi iz Indije i prvi je šef koji je indijsku transformacija. Ali, kod vas je prste umešala i sceni. kuhinju predstavio na najbolji mogući način. konstrukcija. Ako se ne varamo, vaše „delo“ se Šta radite kada u restoranu dobijete jelo koje Takođe, prvi je iz te siromašne zemlje ko je uspeo sastoji od šest celina. Da li jelo mora da bude vam se ne dopada? da napravi nešto ozbiljno. A Elenu iz razloga što „umetnička konstrukcija“ da bi bilo ukusno? - Ljubazno i tiho se obratim konobaru da je nastavila očevu tradiciju da neguje modernu - Ne, naprotiv. Jelo pre svega treba da bude ga zameni i eventualno skrenem pažnju da kuhinju Španije. ukusno, pa tek onda i da lepo izgleda. Bitna je i je možda došlo do greške kuvara. Svestan

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Bogata karijera Nakon, ali i u toku obrazovanja na Visokoj hotelijerskoj školi u Beogradu Igor Belošević je iskustvo sticao na mnogim mestima upisanim u „mapu dobre hrane Beograda“. Od restorana „Tikas“, rezidencija kanadske i britanske ambasade, Vlade i Skupštine Srbije, do restorana „Trpeza“ (sada „Id“), „Radmilovac“ i „Iguana“. Inače, sa samo 19 godina znanje i veštine je unapredio u „Grand Hotelu“ u Portorožu (hotel iz lanca „Kempinski“, sa pet zvezdica), gde je dobio važno zaduženje vođenja italijanske kuhinje internacionalno-mediteranskog restorana „Sophia“. U poslednjih nekoliko godina, kao što je i praksa u svetu, u restoranima je prisutan od početka, od postavljanja jelovnika i kuhinje. Kuvarskim rečnikom rečeno, tako je „otvorio“ kuhinje Vinarije „Podrum“, restorana „Džeri“ (na Dedinju), „1905“ (sada “Salon 1905“) i „Grafičar“ na Senjaku, u kome radi i sada. Pored toga, bio je u timu kuvara hotela „Square Nine“ na otvaranju ovog renomiranog mesta poznatog po odličnoj kuhinji.

sam težine ovog posla i da greške mogu da se A neko kome biste baš želeli da spremite mogu dosta da unaprede taj razvoj. potkradu čak i najboljima. obrok? Razlikuje li se naša publika od svetske? Kako nastaju vaši recepti? Odakle počinjete? - Uvek postoji neko za koga bi voleo da kuvam. - Moje je mišljenje da se razlikuje pre svega po Ili prvo vidite cilj? Neke od tih osoba su Vladimir Putin, kraljica kulturi i odnosu prema hrani u restoranima, a - Inspiracija obično dolazi iz okoline, onog što Elizabeta i šeik Muhamed iz Ujedinjenih samim tim i kada je odabir u pitanju. Beograd me okružuje i što mi je ostalo upečatljivo, bilo Arapskih Emirata. poslednjih nekoliko godina polako počinje da da je to umetnička slika, neki detalj u prirodi Da li vam se ikada dogodilo da neko naruči jelo doživljava ekspanziju restorana, pa je i publika ili nešto treće. Počinjem od izgleda jela, prvo van menija za koje ne znate kako se sprema? postala probirljivija u pogledu izbora kako zamislim kako bi ono izgledalo na tanjiru. Ako jeste, šta ste uradili? mesta, tako i jela. Postoji li sastojak koji svako vaše jelo „mora“ - Da, dešavalo se. Ipak, s obzirom na moje Da li je ono što se može naučiti u beogradskim da sadrži? poznavanje kuhinje, to nije problem. Ukoliko školama i restoranima dovoljno za takmičenje - Puter i krupna morska so su dva sastojka bez postoje uslovi i namirnice potrebne za to jelo, sa svetskom konkurencijom? kojih ne mogu da zamislim kuvanje. uvek ću ga rado spremiti uz pomoć recepta sa - Nažalost, trenutno još ne, jer takva takmičenja Koje sastojke biste spojili da dobijete interneta ili iz knjige. zahtevaju stalno napredovanje, edukaciju neprikosnoveni valcer ukusa? Kako ocenite da se nekome zaista sviđa ono što i praćenje svetskih trendova, a to u Srbiji, - Slano, slatko, kiselo, to jest osvežavajuće. ste spremili? ni tokom školovanja ni prilikom rada u Na primer - dobar komad mesa sa nekim - Po omazanom tanjiru, eventualno komentaru restoranima, nije dovoljno dostupno. zanimljivim mesnim sosom, voćnim pireom ili konobara koji je služio tog gosta, ali često to Postoje li kolege koje su vas inspirisale, ili one svežim voćem kao osvežavajućim dodatkom. saznam i lično od onog za koga je pripremljeno. od kojih ste učili? Ukoliko je riba u pitanju, onda definitivno uz nju Kada spremite jelo, znate li sami da ocenite da - Inspirišu me šefovi poput Granta Akaca, Žoela idu citrusi. li je za 6 ili za 10? Robišona, Alena Dikasa, Ferana Adrije... Učio Kuvate li kod kuće? -Da, naravno. Ne može sve da bude za desetku, a sam od naših kuvara i šefova iz starije generacije - Nažalost ne, zbog radnog vremena. Ali kad god ne valja ni da je za šesticu. kao što su Petar Gajić, Novak Fidanović i imam dan-dva slobodno, iskoristim priliku da Može li majstor-kuvar da uživa i pripremajući Goran Kovačević, ali i iz mlađe, poput Mladena nešto spremim. najobičniju musaku od krompira i mesa? Rankovića, Nikole Biševca i Aleksandra Ilića. Kome najviše volite da pripremate hranu? I te kako, jer i musaka može da bude svojevrsno Šta Vam je cilj u karijeri? - Prijateljima i dragim osobama. Ali najveći umetničko delo i da u nju bude utkano više - Ako i kada budem imao svoj restoran po svojim izazov mi je porodica. Jer, kad njima nešto ne ljubavi nego u neko drugo jelo. željama i kriterijumima, definitivno ću znati da valja ili kažu da se sastojci ne slažu, znam da je to Da li Beograd daje dobar okvir za razvoj sam uspeo. jelo odlično. kuvarstva i autentičnih kuvara? Postoji li neka osoba za koju nikada ne biste - Mislim da ima potencijala zato što i Beograd kuvali? i Srbija, u odnosu na ostatak sveta, imaju - Na sreću, još nisam došao u situaciju da moram nepresušan izvor kvalitetnih namirnica. S tim da odbijem da kuvam za nekoga. što to trenutno nije dovoljno iskorišćeno. Kuvari

66 / 76 Comfortably. Safely. Immaculately. INTERVIEW: IGOR BELOŠEVIĆ FROM BUTTER AND SALT TO PERFECTION ON A PLATE

Young chef Igor Belošević drew the attention region judges with the recipe “karakačan Aesthetics is important because you “eat with of the public eye the moment he received a lamb”. Most of your opponents didn’t “play” your eyes” first, but in the end, when you look flattering invitation to participate in the most the local specialty card. What is the story at the dish as a whole, what makes the biggest prestigious international competition for chefs behind this recipe and why is it important to impression is taste. up to thirty years of age – the “San Pellegrino you? What would you choose for lunch today? Young Chef 2016” (Eastern European phase - I opted for this dish mainly because the - Some good piece of saltwater fish. of the contest). But, even before this, there conditions of the competition stated that it was And for dinner? were some “lucky” ones who knew his cooking desirable for the competitor to use ingredients - A plate of selected cheeses, hams, sardines, and produced “masterpieces” that appealed to the indigenous from his country of origin. The fruits, with a glass of wine. eye as well as to the taste buds. “karakačan lamb” has in itself the evolution What is the dish you usually order in a If you were to write the explanation as to why of Serbian cuisine through centuries, from restaurant? Igor Belošević is invited into this prestigious the times of Nemanjić dynasty up until today, - Given the fact this is my profession and I don’t group that is the “San Pellegrino Young Chef,” presented in a modern way. Here you can find have much time to go to restaurants, what I eat what would you write? “bulgur” porridge people ate the night before the depends on of the type of restaurant I’m in. If it - Because I love to cook. Because I take on Battle of Kosovo under the orders of Tzar Lazar. is of a national type, then my choice would be, challenges in my work. Because I’m always Then there is a lamb shoulder blade slowly for example, barbecue. willing to learn. And finally, because I can show cooked in a vacuum and then sealed to have the When you first go to a restaurant do you ask to it all off on a plate. “effect” of lamb cooked under “sač”, which is one meet the chef, or do you go to places where you Who impresses you the most out of the of the oldest ways to prepare meat in Serbia. The already know them? seven magnificent of this competition’s same plate has rolled lamb, which represents a - I like to visit restaurants where the colleagues judges (Gaggan Anand, Elena Arzak, Mauro more modern way of ours to prepare meat. And with whom I like to spend time work at, and if Colagreco, Carlo Cracco, Wylie Dufresne, as a final modern touch, there are lamb thymuses I am in a more known restaurant abroad, and David Higgs, and Roberta Sudbrack) and why? breaded in acorn puree sitting on top of a donkey if there is a possibility, it is always a pleasure to - All the chefs you’ve just mentioned are top- cheese mousse and nettle puree boiled in bee meet the chef and exchange ideas. notch professionals. They wouldn’t be where wax, because in Serbia some 300–400 years ago How do you typically choose which restaurant they are now if that weren’t true. If I had to people used to cook with wax, and pourring it to go to? single out anyone, it would have to be Gaggan afterwards over dishes to preserve them, since - Depends on how hungry I am. I love going to Anand and Elena Arzak. Gaggan because he there were no cooling devices at the time. restaurants where I haven’t been before and try comes from India and because he’s the first chef This recipe appears to be on the trail of our new things, and therefore to keep up with the to represent the Indian cuisine in the best way topic – transformation. But, with you, there current situation in the gastronomic scene. possible. Also, he’s the first one coming from is also an element of construction. If we are What do you do when in a restaurant you get a this emerging country who managed to make correct, your “masterpiece” consists of six dish you don’t like? something serious. And Elena because she units. Does the dish have to be an “artistic - I ask the waiter politely and quietly to replace continued the legacy of the modern Spanish construction” for it to be tasty? the dish and I possibly draw attention to the fact cuisine first started by the father. - No, on the contrary. A dish must be tasty above there may have been a mistake made by the chef. You stepped in front of the Eastern European all other things, then comes the appearance. I’m aware of the difficulties of this business and

68 / 76 Lucrative career After, but also in the course of attending the College of Hotel Management in Belgrade Igor Belošević gained experience in many places marked on the “map of good food in Belgrade”. From places such as ”Tikas” restaurant, the Canadian and Brittish embassies, the Government and the Parliament of the Republic of Serbia to restaurants “Trpeza” (now called “Id”), “Radmilovac” and “Iguana”. At the age of only 19, he upgraded his knowledge and skills in the “Grand Hotel” in Portorož (belonging to the Kempinski hotel chain), where he was given the important role of managing the Italian kitchen of the international-Mediterranean restaurant “Sophia”. In the last few years, as it is widely practiced all over the world, he’s been present in restaurants from the beginning, from the first steps of setting up menus and kitchens. If we use culinary language, he’s so far “opened” the kitchens of the “Podrum” winery, “Džeri” restaurant (located in Dedinje), “1905” (now called “Salon 1905”) and “Grafičar” in Senjak, where he currently works. Besides that, he was a part of the chef team in “Square Nine” hotel during the opening of this famous place known for its exquisite cuisine.

that even the best of us can make a mistake. cook. Some of them are Vladimir Putin, Queen culture and relationship towards food in How do you create your recipes? From where Elizabeth and Sheikh Mohammed of the United restaurants, and by that in choices as well. In do you start? Or do you see the result first? Arab Emirates. the last couple of years, Belgrade has started to - The inspiration usually comes from my Has it ever happened to you that somebody experience the expansion of restaurants, making surroundings, what I see around me and ordered a meal out of the menu you didn’t the audience pickier when it comes to choosing what remains impressionable, whether it be a know how to prepare? If yes, what did you do? not only where but what they eat. painting, some detail from nature or something - Yes, it has. Still, given my knowledge in the Is what can be learned in Belgrade schools and else. I start with the appearance of the dish; I try kitchen, that’s not a problem. If there are right restaurants enough to compete with rivals to imagine how it would look on a plate. conditions and ingredients, I will gladly make it abroad? Is there an ingredient each of your dishes with the help of a recipe from the Internet or a - Sadly, right now it isn’t, because those types “must” have? book. of contests require a constant progression, - Butter and coarse sea salt are two ingredients How can you tell if somebody genuinely likes education and monitoring of world trends, without which I cannot imagine cooking. what you’ve prepared? which isn’t available in Serbia, nor during Which ingredients would you combine to - If the plate is empty, if a waiter who was serving schooling nor when working in restaurants. achieve the undisputed waltz of tastes? the guest comes and tells me, but I often hear it Are there any colleagues who inspired you, or - Salty, sweet, sour, refreshing that is. For from the person who ate the dish. those from whom you learned? example – a good piece of meat with some When you prepare a dish, are you able to tell if - I’m inspired by chefs such as Grant Achatz, interesting meat sauce, fruit puree or fresh it is a 6 or a 10? Joël Robuchon, Alain Ducasse, Ferran Adrià… I fruits as a refreshing addition. If it is fish, then - Yes, of course. Not all of them are a 10, but a 6 is learned from our cooks and chefs from the older definitely some citrus to go with it. not a good mark either. generation, such as Petar Gajić, Novak Fidanović Do you cook at home? Can a top-notch chef enjoy making a most and Goran Kovačević, but also from the younger - Unfortunately, no, because of the working ordinary moussaka with potatoes and meat? ones like Mladen Ranković, Nikola Biševac and hours. But whenever I have one of two days off, I - By all means yes, because a moussaka too can Aleksandar Ilić. take the opportunity to cook something. be a sort of a work of art and made with more Is having your own restaurant the ultimate Whom do you prefer to prepare food? love than any other dish. career goal? - Friends and loved ones. But my biggest Does Belgrade provide a good framework for - If and when I have my own restaurant, created challenge is my family. When they don’t like the development of cookery and authentic according to my wished and criteria, I will something, or they say the ingredients don’t chefs? definitely know I made it. match, I know that dish is great. - I think it does have potential given the fact Is there somebody for whom you wouldn’t Belgrade and Serbia have an unlimited source cook? of quality ingredients, compared to the rest of - Fortunately, I haven’t yet found myself in a the world. It’s just not sufficiently utilized at the situation to refuse to cook for someone. moment. Chefs can further this growth. And is there someone whom you would really Is our audience any different from the want to cook a meal? international one? - There is always somebody for whom I’d love to - I believe the differences lie mostly in the

69 / 76 LIFESTYLE JUCE ZA DANAS!

Ko je mogao i pomisliti da će jednoga dana grad u koji se odlazilo po fini, a jeftini damast za stolnjake, i fini, a još jeftiniji porcelan, postati jedan od najatraktivnijih, a time po prihodu od turizma i najuspešnijih gradova na svetu? Koliko nas je verovalo da će nakon lajtšou dizelaških đonova čuvene starke ponovo biti apsolutni „must have“? I šta se to u međuvremenu dogodilo da ukusi miliona ljudi glatko skrenu u lakat krivini i ponovo se u njih zaljube? Odgovor leži u jednoj reči - transformacija.

SVETLANA PRERADOVIĆ

Neoštećen u Drugom svetskom ratu, ali izdajnika, disidenta i kočničara razvoja, duhom transformisanog, a arhitekturom socijalno, politički i kulturološki devastiran upravo ova mesta, tako karakteristična istog Praga, privučeni neodoljivom snagom komunističkom vladavinom koja je za prašku kulturu, više od bilo kakvih promene, ljudi iz celog sveta instinktivno trajala više od četiri decenije, glavni grad očiglednih turističkih atrakcija pokazuju su osetili da ni oči, ni foto-aparati, ni tadašnje Čehoslovačke, sada Republike da je Prag uvek bio ono što i danas jeste, mobilni telefoni sa savršenim „piksel Češke – Prag, kao da je u niskom startu samo je njegova „duša“ bila zarobljena moćima“ tu ipak nisu dovoljni. Za čarobni čekao čuvenu Plišanu, to jest „sametovu“ okovima „najsavršenijeg društvenog dodir sa suštinom promene moralo se i revoluciju 1989. godine da svetu pokaže poretka“ (čitajte komunizma), ili kako mora se otići na „izvor“. svoje staro-novo, očaravajuće lice. bi to rekao najčuveniji češki pisac ovog Tako sada ispred buteljke na kockastom Transformacija jedne od najturobnijih doba Milan Kundera „nepodnošljivom stolu sede Amerikanci šokirani činjenicom prestonica Istočnog bloka, u kojoj se lakoćom postojanja“. Oslobođenje i da „nešto tako staro“ još postoji, Francuzi svetla budućnost, posebno posle Praškog prvi korak ka opštoj promeni označilo „uvređeni“ što su našli argumente koji proleća 1968, nije ni nazirala na vidiku, u je čuveno zveckanje ključevima 1989. opravdavaju krađu titule „prestonice Zlatni grad u koji milioni turista godišnje godine – melodija otpora kojom su Evrope“ Parizu, Japanci „zamrznuti“ dolaze da nahrane dušu vanvremenskim Česi, na sada već čuvenim Vaclavskim divotom utiska koji se ne da poneti u lepotama, najočiglednije se da prikazati i Staromjetskim namjestima, označili memoriji najsavremenije tehnologije... na primeru čuvenih pivnica sa kockastim svoj put ka demokratiji i liberalizaciji Ali, ako se složimo da je Prag šampion stolnjacima i kriglama piva. Nekada društvenih odnosa i ekonomije. I... U Prag transformacije u kategoriji gradova u rezervisana za spiranje reči koje nisu smele su pohrlili turisti. Da vide ono što je toliko poslednjih nekoliko decenija, šta ćemo biti izgovorene nigde drugde do u „hatama“ dugo živelo u mraku, da očima upiju što sa Berlinom, čiji simbol promena nisu (češki vikendicama – prim aut.), gde ih više istorijskog blaga gotike, renesanse miroljubivi ključevi već budaci i bageri niko ne može čuti i tako vas potkazati kao i baroka, ali i secesije i kubizma. Usred usmereni na zid star 38 godina (1961–

70 / 76 1989), potom Abu Dabijem, koji svoju – šarm ovog automobila jednostavno je S tim što su stare dobre rolšue, kao pravi „reinkarnaciju“ duguje ratom izazvanoj neuništiv! majstori uspešne transformacije, „odbile“ promeni cene nafte na svetskom tržištu „Fiat 500“ koji sada stoji pred nama da se takmiče sa „novotarijama“ i u prvi početkom 70-ih? Ili sa Las Vegasom, u možda je najbolji primer značenja pojma plan istakle svoju retro stranu. Uzimajući kome je 1830. živelo 50 stanovnika, a koji transformacija – „promene koja se događa u obzir koliko je retro trend popularan, šta sada godišnje, svetlima slot mašina i seksi prirodno i bez napora“. Kada to kažemo, reći osim – bravo! klubova, privuče više od 42 miliona ljudi? ne prenebregavamo trud čitave vojske Roleri su samo jedan od lajfstajl simbola Ok. Shvatili ste. Prelazimo na drugu temu. ljudi koja je osmišljavala i pravila starog ili koji je zahvaljujući opštem retro novog „Fiću“, nego govorimo o tajnovitim trendu poslednjih nekoliko decenija Fićisti novog milenijuma potencijalima nečega ranije stvorenog da doživeo transformaciju (ili bolje reći Iako očigledne, transformacije gradova, se transformiše i zablesne novim sjajem. reinkarnaciju!). Da li je tu starija kokoška pa i celih država, ipak se, zbog tzv. Potrebno vam je nešto konkretnije da ili jaje, teško je reći, tek isti uzlet na krilima perioda hiberancije, koji se nekada meri vas u to uverimo? Pa dobro. Pokušajte da ovog trenda imao je i niz drugih lajfstajl decenijama, pa i vekovima, ne mogu zamislite transformaciju čuvenog „keca“, simbola. Preskočićemo mnoge, između meriti sa onima koje doživljavaju ličnosti i to jest „zastave 101“. Složićete se – da se ostalog i T-shirt majice (o njima nekom određeni lajfstajl simboli. udruže sve vojske kreativaca ovog sveta, drugom prilikom, duga je to priča), i odmah A tu smo već na domaćem terenu, jer uz ne bi mu pomogle da stane na crtu čudima preći na čuvene „starke“. reč transformacija kao med na puter, dizajna automobila 21. veka. Patike „All Star“ kompanije „Converse“, ili ako baš hoćete kao aleva paprika na Idemo dalje, ali ostajemo pri temi - proizvedene prvi put 1917. godine u beloj, mast, lepi se čuveni jugoslovenski, sada transformaciji, a ostajemo i kod točkova. plavoj i crvenoj, patriotskim bojama sa srpski „Fića“. Veliko slovo nije slučajno! Samo menjamo njihov broj. I to ovako. američke zastave, danas su apsolutni „Fiat 750“ iz 1962, supermini verzija Prve rolšue, koje je patentirao holandski hit i prava mala umetnička dela. Prvi italijanskog modela „fiat 600“ koji je Zavod violinista i izumitelj Džon Džozef Merlin talas popularnosti doživele su među “Crvena zastava” proizvodio po licenci 1760. godine, imale su dva točka, jedan iza košarkašima zahvaljujući Čaku Tejloru, od 1956. godine, prošao je put prepun drugog. Stabilniju verziju sa četiri točka, prvom sportisti koji je svojim imenom stao uspona i padova, od hit automobila koji je dva napred i dva nazad, osmislio je 1863. iza jednog modnog brenda. Tokom Drugog igrao „glavnu ulogu“ u mnogim srpskim amerikanac Džejms Plimpton. Njegove svetskog rata bile su prisutne uglavnom filmovima 60-ih („Ljubav i moda“ – rame rolšue sa gvozdenim točkovima doživele na sportskim terenima, a prava pomama uz rame sa italijanskom „vespom“) i 70- su vrhunac popularnosti 30-ih godina 20. za njima je zavladala 70-ih i 80-ih godina ih („Nacionalna klasa“ – uz Flojda) do veka, pa ponovo 50-ih, ali sa gumenim, a prošlog veka, kada su „starke“ crne ili krem predmeta želja svetskih trendesetara druge kasnije i plastičnim točkićima. Vozili su boje postale simbol mladalačkog bunta. decenije 21.veka. ih svi koji su smeli i umeli, a oni koji nisu Posle pauze od nekoliko decenija, tokom Posle prvog WOW perioda serijska oblačili su se u „roler“ stilu i ponašali se kao kojih su svoj momenat slave imale patike proizvodnja ovog vozila obustavljena je da ih voze. čiji je đon izgledao kao lajtšou, od 2003. 1985, a „Fićinu“ slavu, uprkos dominaciji Današnja forma rolšua, koju zovemo roleri, godine pod pokroviteljstvom firme „Nike“ „Golfa“, pa „BMW-a“, „Mercedesa“, ima jedan red točkova, a smislili su je ranih kreće još jedna „erupcija starki“. Ali tada „Audija“ (možda ne baš tim redom), osamdesetih godina prošlog veka američki „All Star“ patike postaju poput slikarskih, nastavili su da čuvaju pojedini zaljubljenici hokejaši Skot i Brenan Olson sa ciljem da zapravo molerskih platna - najmodernije u ovaj model. Mnogi su ih, naravno, se njihove kolege tokom letnjih meseci, uz su one koje izgledaju kao stare, iznošene i smatrali zaluđenicima. Svejedno, istorija mnogo manje troškove od onih održavanja „ukrašene“ ostacima kreča i farbe. Smemo će pokazati da su „Beogradsko udruženje leda, mogu baviti svojim sportom. Ali li opet da kažemo bravo? Ili se previše fićista“ i „Udruženje ljubitelja fiće“ znali prava pomama za njima, a uz njih i ponavljamo? nešto što mi nismo, a u šta se možete lako modernizovanim Plimptonovim rolšuama, uveriti danas kada „sretnete“ novog „Fiću“ ponovo je počela tek početkom 21. veka.

71 / 76 LIFESTYLE Yesterday for today!

Who would’ve thought that one day the city you visited to get nice, yet cheap damask for tablecloths, and nice, even cheaper porcelain, was to become one of the most appealing, and one of the most prosperous cities in the world if you count the money gained from tourism? How many of us believed that after the sneakers with reflecting soles Converse All Stars will again be a must-have? And what happened in the meantime that made people completely change their minds and fall in love with them again? The answer lies in one word – transformation.

SVETLANA PRERADOVIĆ

Left undamaged in World War II, used to mark their path towards democracy changes in oil prices on the world market but socially, politically and culturally and liberalization of social relations and in the early 70s? Or Las Vegas, a city that devastated by the communist government economy, at now famous Wenceslas and had 50 inhabitants in 1830, and which now that ruled for more than four decades, Old Town Square. And… Tourists flooded attracts, with the help of slot machines the capital of then Czechoslovakia, Prague. They came to see what was living and sex clubs lights, more than 45 million now Czech Republic – Prague – as if it in the dark for so long, to see with their people each year? Ok, you got the point. Off waited, ready for the famous Velvet, or own eyes as much of a historical treasure of to a different subject. “sametová” revolution in 1989 to show the Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque, but also world its old-new, fascinating face. The of Secession and Cubism as they could. In The Fiat lovers of the new millennium transformation of one of the gloomiest the midst of Prague, a city transformed by Although apparent, transformations of capitals of the Eastern bloc, where bright spirit, but architecturally the same, drawn cities, even entire states, due to the so- future, especially after the Prague Spring by its irresistible force of change, people called hibernation period, that sometimes in 1968, wasn’t even on the horizon into from all over the world instinctively felt can last for decades, cannot be measured the Golden City where millions of tourists that neither eyes, nor cameras, nor phones with those experienced by people or come each year to feed their souls timeless with their perfect pixel powers were certain lifestyle symbols. beauty can most obviously be shown on the enough. To have that magical touch with And we are on home turf now, because the example of famous pubs with checkered the essence of change you needed and you word transformation is attached to the tablecloths and beer mugs. Formerly still need to go straight to the “source”. famous Yugoslavian, now Serbian “Fića” reserved solely for rinsing words that So these days the Americans are sitting car model as honey is to butter. The capital could not have been spoken anywhere else in front of a bottle on a checkered table, letter is not a coincidence here! The Fiat but in “chatas” (Czech for cottages - cf. shocked by the fact that “something so 750 from 1962, a super mini version of the aut.), where nobody could hear them and old” still exists, the French are “offended” Italian model Fiat 600 which had been accuse you of being traitors, dissidents or because they found reasons to justify manufactured under licence since 1956 brakemen of development, these places in stealing the title of “Europe’s capital”, by the company Zavod “Crvena Zastava”, particular, so characteristic of the Prague the Japanese are “frozen” by the beauty has had a road full of ups and downs, from culture, more than any other tourist of a moment that cannot be captured and being a hit car which “starred” in many attraction show you that Prague has always kept by the most advanced technological Serbian movies from the 60s (“Love and been what it is today – its “soul” was just devices… Fashion” – side by side with the Italian trapped in the chains of “the most perfect But, if we agree that Prague holds the Vespa) and the 70s (“National class” – social order” (that is communism), or, transformation title in the city category together with Floyd) to being a desired as the most famous Czech author of this in the last couple of decades, what of object by world trendsetters in the second day and age, Milan Kundera, would call it Berlin, whose symbol of change are not decade of the 21st century. “the unbearable lightness of being”. The peaceful keys but pickaxes and dredges After the first WOW period the serial famous jingling of keys in 1989 marked going towards a wall 38-years-old manufacture of this vehicle was terminated the liberation and the first step towards a (1961–1989), then Abu Dhabi, which owns in 1985, and the glory of “Fića”, despite general change – it was a melody Czechs its “reincarnation” to the war-induced the domination of Volkswagen, BMW,

72 / 76 Mercedes, Audi (maybe not in that patented by the Dutch violinist and the general retro trend happening. Who particular order), was nourished by true inventor John Joseph Merlin in 1760, had is older there, the chicken od the egg? It’s lovers of this model. Many thought of two wheels, one behind another. The more difficult to say, yet many other lifestyle them as buffs. Nevertheless, history will go stable version with four wheels, two in the symbols arose on the wings of this same on to show that the Belgrade Association front and two in the back, was created in trend. We’ll skip through many, including of the “Fića” fans and the Association 1863 by the American James Plimpton. T-shirts (we’ll talk about them on some of the “Fića” lovers knew something we His roller skates with wheels made of iron other occasion, it’s quite a long story), didn’t, and you can easily get convinced reached the peak of popularity during the and go straight to the famous Converse even today when you “meet” the newest 30s, and then again in the 50s, but with sneakers. “Fića” model – this car’s charm is utterly rubber, and later plastic wheels. Everybody The All Stars by Converse were produced indestructible! who knew and could rollerskate did and for the first time in 1917 in white, blue and Fiat 500 that now stands in front of us those who didn’t dressed in “roller” style red, patriotic colors of the American flag; may be the best example of the meaning and acted as if they were rollerskating. today these sneakers are an absolute hit of the term transformation – “change that Today’s form of roller skates, called inline and actual works of art. They had their happens naturally and without effort”. skates, have a single row of wheels, and first wave of popularity among basketball When we say that, we are not overlooking they were created in the 80s by American players thanks to Chuck Taylor, the first the efforts of an entire army of people who hockey players Scott and Brennan Olson. athlete whose name stood behind a fashion created and made the old or the new “Fića”; They wanted to allow their teammates brand. During World War II they were we are talking about the secret potentials to practice during summer months, with mostly seen on the sports fields, and the of something that was previously set up much lower costs than maintaining the genuine infatuation came in the 70s and to transform and shine again. You need ice. But the real obsession with them, 80s when All Stars in black or beige became something more accurate to convince you? along with modernized Plimpton’s roller the symbol of youth rebellion. Ok then. Try to imagine the transformation skates, started again only at the beginning After a break that lasted for several of the famous “Kec”, that is “Zastava 101” of the 21st century. Bare in mind that the decades, during which sneakers with model. You will agree – if all the armies of good old roller skates, as real magicians reflecting soles had their moment of fame, creative people in the world would join of transformation, “refused” to compete another “eruption” of All Stars emerged their forces, they couldn’t help it stand with the “novelties” and accentuated their in 2003 under the auspices of Nike. But even close to the 21st car models’ design retro side. Considering the popularity of then All Stars became more like a canvas wonders. the retro trend, what else can we say other for painters – the most fashionable ones Let’s move on, but stay close to the subject than – Well done! are those that look like old, worn-out and – transformation, and let’s stick to the Roller skates are just one of the lifestyle “decorated” with leftovers from paint and wheels. We’ll only change their number. symbols that had their transformation (or lime. Should we say “Well done” again? Or And we’ll do it like this. First roller skates, should we call it reincarnation!), thanks to are we too repetitive?

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75 / 76 Parfemska voda

Život je lep. Živi ga na svoj način.