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Round the Horn Before the Mast ROUND THE HORN BEFORE THE MAST [Front ifpiece. ROUND THE HORN BEFORE THE MAST BY A. BASIL LUBBOCK WITH ILLUSTRATIONS LONDON JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, W. 1915 G 540 FIRST EDITION .... November 1902 December Reprinted lyn December Reprinted 1902 Reprinted February 1903 October SECOND EDITION . 1903 THIRD EDITION May 1907 Reprinted July 1907 CHEAP EDITION (i/- net) . January 1911 'anuary Reprinted 1915 TO MY DEAR MOTHER I DEDICATE THIS BOOK CONTENTS CHAPTER I MM "FRISCO". ... i Choosing a Ship Signing on Don Henderson At a Seaman's Tailor First Day's Work Cleaning the Stringers Sailors v. Bass-bailers at Cricket The Sea- man's Institute My Carribco Bag A Sailors' Concert- Emptying the Bilges The Marlbortf Hill's Crew of Landlubbers Yankee Brutality at Sea Chipping Johnsen, the Swede. CHAPTER II OAKI.AND CREEK AND PORT COSTA . -39 A Lively Time crossing the Bay Mooring Ship Sea Ser- pents An Old South Seaman More Cricket The Bilges again Lining the Hold The Art of Painting Mosquitoes and Song Bleeding the Grain Bending Sail An Early Morning Picnic Bathing in the Sacra- mento A Fatality Ready for Sea Taking in Stores Our Crew come Aboard My Stewardship The Return of the Californian Boys. CHAPTER III THE NORTH PACIFIC . 72 Man the Capstan Making Sail Picking the Watches Going About My Gaff-topsail Timekeeping The Binnacles Matches Dandyfunk and Crackerhash Dutchmen and Dagos Johnsen's Logbook The Old Man's Models The Bosun's Songs "Duckfoot Sue" Crew complain of the Food Rows amongst the After- gang Peggy Flying-Fish and Bosun Birds Lime-juice Amateur Haircutters Sharks and Pilot-Fish In the Doldrums At the Braces in the Middle Watch Deep- sea Fishing The Song of the Trade Wind Heaving the Log My First Wheel Fine Weather Kites A " Jimmy Green." Y xi CONTENTS MI CHAPTER IV THE SOUTH SKAS . isi Cross the Line" Stand by your Royal Halliards "Making Rovings Johnsen tries to Knife the Second Mate Tarring Down Dancing in the Dog Watch Sails Discourses on Modern Wind-jammers Yankee Schooners Clinching the Crossjack Leech-line The Loudoun Hill Graining Dolphins Our Fajming Bosun A Queer Fish British Sailors on British Ships Yankee Buckos Pitcairn Island "What ho, Piper 1" CHAPTER V RUNNING EASTING DOWN . 144 Grand Yachting From the Bowsprit End A Bad Squall Fore-royal blows away On the Fore Upper-topgallant Yard A Battle with the Elements Wilson and Myself on the Main-yard Cape Pigeons Preparing for Cape Horn Fog Use of a Cowhorn at Sea Rotten Gas- kets In the Lazarette Getting up Bread Parafliny Sugar Slumgullion A Cape Horn Sunset Arguments in the Half-deck The Stately Albatross Our Hens The "Roaring Forties "Famous Tea-Clippers The Thermopylae A "Blue-nose" Clipper Rivalry be- tween Watches Checkerboard Crews Negro Crews Burgoo A Mollymawk Aboard Colder Weather Making Fenders Putting in Rovings Bird-life in the Southern Ocean Cape Horn Hail-storms. CHAPTER VI OFF THE HORN . i?7 A big Beam Sea Rolling both Rails Under Port Watch washed away from the Fore-braces The Deck-bear Dollops Blood-stirring Work Main-deck under Water CONTENTS vii Half-deck Water-logged In our Watch Below Wak- ing Mac At the Lee Wheel Cape Horn Greybeards Dodging the Seas Don nearly Drowned in his Lamp- locker No Fresh Water Standing by Higgins in the Lee Scuppers Sunday Breakfast Snugging Down Turning up Gear Overboard A Narrow Escape An Unlucky Fall Don Loses his False Teeth aloft Moun- " " tainous Seas Pooped Sail ho ! The Music of the Gale Chantying in Difficulties A Huge Sea falls Aboard Retrieving the Lamps All Hands on Deck Terrific Work The Royalshire on her Beam Ends Hove-to A Bad Middle Watch Make Sail Again Chantying Outward Bounders Cape Stiff Old Man's Yarns Foot-gear. CHAPTER VII THE SOUTH ATLANTIC ..... 239 On the Banks A Low Glass Blowing Again I Fall and Shake the Poop Taylor's Whitlow Sea-Boils Pipes " " growing Scarce Storm along, Stormie The whole Crew washed away from the Mainbrace My knee damaged The Bosun and Bower Clark Russell at Fault Model-Making Discussion on Flogging An Albatross Caught Ill-health on Board My Medicine Chest A Dead Muzzier An Electric Storm Jack o' Lanterns My poor Knee Johnsen's Troubles A Wild Highlander at Meals A Prophet of Evil Don and Scar. CHAPTER VIII IN THE TROPICS ...... 282 Old Slush and Greasy Food A Fleet of Wind-jammers col- lected by the Head-wind Johnsen the Jonah Washing Clothes Quartermaster Amusements in the Night Watches Painting Down The Frigate Bird Ocean ROUND THE HORN BEFORE THE MAST CHAPTER I "FRISCO" " Serene, indifferent of Fate, Thou sittest at the Western Gate ; Upon thy heights so lately won, Still slant the banners of the sun ; Thou seest the white seas strike their tents, O Warder of two Continents I And scornful of the peace that flies, Thy angry winds and sullen skies, Thou drawest all things, small and great, To Thee, beside the Western Gate." ON Wednesday, I2th July 1899, I signed on before the mast on the four-mast barque Royalshire of Glasgow, which had just arrived in Frisco from Japan, and was busy unloading the first cargo of Japanese coal that had ever left the country. " I had just come out of the Golden North," r I 2 -FRISCO" having had several months up in the Klondyke, where I experienced both the "midnight sun" and the "midday night." I had intended pros- pecting Vancouver Island for copper during the rest of the summer, but the party having been broken up for various reasons, I came down to San Francisco, meaning to ship on board a South Sea schooner and proceed by slow stages to Australia but after a search I failed ; thorough to find a single South Sea trader in Frisco, except the barque Maura Al, which ran to Honolulu with passengers, so I decided to give up this plan. I had long had a wish to sail before the mast, and witness real sea life in all its dangers and hardships. The chief officer of one of the Empress boats, those magnificent steamers of the Canadian Pacific Railway, on my speaking to him of this wish, had told me that if I shipped before the mast on a windjammer, I should find it a wonderful experience, which, if I was not afraid of real muscle-trying work, and was hardy enough to stand the bad food and other hardships, I should look back upon with much pleasure. As I was as fit as it was possible for any one to be, and felt sure that nothing would come very hard after such an experience as I had gone through in the Klondyke, I determined to ship THE ROYALSHIRE 8 home round the Horn in one of the magnificent windjammers which lay in the port. The next thing to do was to pick a good ship. There were several four-mast barques beautiful iron ships from the Clyde and not a few full- riggers and three-mast barques, all about to load grain for the British Isles or Continent. Though a very keen lover of the sea, and with a certain amount of experience gained yachting and travelling, I really knew very little of what a foremast jack's life was on board a big deep- waterman. I knew enough, however, not to ship before the mast on a ship with "down-east" or "blue-nose" mates, who, though they are the finest seamen probably in the world, are terrible "drivers," and are a bit too free with belaying - pins, knuckle dusters, and six-shooters to please me, the "gun-play" on board some "down- " easters being almost worthy of an Arizona mining camp. I also knew enough to find out before I signed on, whether the ship was a hungry one or not, and whether her skipper drank. I spent a whole morning prowling round the docks, and decided that the Royalshire, Lancing^ and London Hill, all four-mast barques, were the finest ships in port. The Royalshire I thought the finest looking alow and aloft, and from the spread of her yards 4 "FRISCO" she had evidently got a larger sail plan than either of the others. She only had one defect that I could take hold of, and that was a rather heavy stern, though this was made up for by one of the sweetest entrances I have ever seen ; the curve of her cutwater and her bow lines were a delight to the eye, and I at once decided to make inquiries about her. On the wharf, tallying the carts of coal as they were loaded from the shute, was a small red-headed Scotchman. From him I found out that she was reckoned " " one of the crack ships of the Shire Line of Glasgow, that her captain and officers were all Scotch, and that, though not noted for her good feeding, she could hardly be called a "hungry ship." My red-headed friend answered every ques- tion very readily, and gave the ship and her captain a first - rate character. He evidently thought that I wanted a passage in her, and told me that I could see the captain on the following day about eleven o'clock, before he went ashore. Thanking him for his information, I asked him what position he held on board. He replied, "third mate," and told me that she carried four mates, and also that the whole of her crew had run on arriving in Frisco.
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