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boisdaleAUTUMN 2018 ISSUE 13 THE JUDGMENT OF PARIS The wine tasting that scandalised France THE TRIALS OF ELON MUSK Ben Oliver on Tesla's controversial genius Also inside INTO THE NICK FERRARI: WHY BULL RING! AIR TRAVEL IS HELL The Englishman BRUCE ANDERSON ON who became CHARLES DE GAULLE a matador ROGER BOOTLE'S INTEREST WWW.BOISDALE.CO.UK RATE PREDICTIONS £4.95 $7.40 STANLEY JOHNSON SEARCHES €6.70 FOR SNOW LEOPARDS ¥880 Experience the power of extraordinary. The new Continental GT. From the first 1919 prototype to the new Continental GT – Bentley has been perfecting performance to deliver the ultimate grand The new Continental GT fuel consumption – EU Drive Cycle in mpg (l/100 km): Urban 16.0 (17.7); touring experience. To experience it for yourself on a test drive call 0845 689 1624 or visit BentleyMotors.com/Continental Extra Urban 31.7 (8.9); Combined 23.2 (12.2). CO2 Emissions 278 g/km. The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks. © 2018 Bentley Motors Limited. Model shown: Continental GT. Bentley_Boisdale_Life_2109_280x420.indd All Pages 24/08/2018 11:14 Experience the power of extraordinary. The new Continental GT. From the first 1919 prototype to the new Continental GT – Bentley has been perfecting performance to deliver the ultimate grand The new Continental GT fuel consumption – EU Drive Cycle in mpg (l/100 km): Urban 16.0 (17.7); touring experience. To experience it for yourself on a test drive call 0845 689 1624 or visit BentleyMotors.com/Continental Extra Urban 31.7 (8.9); Combined 23.2 (12.2). CO2 Emissions 278 g/km. The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks. © 2018 Bentley Motors Limited. Model shown: Continental GT. Bentley_Boisdale_Life_2109_280x420.indd All Pages 24/08/2018 11:14 MADE IN ENGLAND | SINCE 1879 BY APPOINTMENT TO HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES MANUFACTURER AND SUPPLIER OF FOOTWEAR CROCKETT & JONES LIMITED, NORTHAMPTON Chiltern A classic Chukka Boot, made in England, using the finest Dark Brown, Earth Green and Snuff Suede CROCKETTANDJONES.COM THE MAGAZINE OF BOISDALE RESTAURANTS Editor’s letter I don’t think any French man or woman Karam interviews Stephen Spurrier, could be included in a list of the global the Englishman who instigated the top ten most important people of the famous blind tasting which resulted in 20th Century – and possibly not even the astonishing victory of Californian the top thousand (only joking, French wines over the best of Bordeaux and readers!). But if there was to be one, Burgundy – and nine of the 12 judges it must be Charles de Gaulle, who for were French! But I do like to think those of us who grew up with Asterix that de Gaulle would have approved of and Obelix, is rather aptly named for Boisdale’s new ambition to become the a champion of France. pre-eminent wild mushroom restaurant In this issue of Boisdale Life, Bruce of London. Every day this autumn, at Anderson vividly reminds us of this each Boisdale restaurant, the rarest grand man’s achievements in light of and most extraordinary fungi will be France’s militarily-humiliating 150 available in a variety of dishes for the years, from Napoleon to the Vichy delectation of our customers. Unlike JAMIE LAU government. Without de Gaulle’s France, our high street chemists are not logic-defying, egotistical and fanatical equipped to test the toxicity of foraged nationalistic vision, France – the mushrooms, but please rest assured boisdale country we love to hate and secretly our chefs and I will have tasted them envy – might have lost its self-respect all beforehand. This makes Bill Knott's and cultural integrity. God forbid we charming and illuminating examination might not have had either the EU or of the joys of eating and foraging wild Editor & Chief even the TGV! mushrooms essential reading. Ranald Macdonald And while we‘re on the subject, why OMG I’ve run out of space! I trust can’t the British produce incredibly you will find this fabulously eclectic Publishing director Andrew Davies civilised, magnificently fast, reliable issue of Boisdale Life stimulating, and Managing editor Timothy Barber and sensibly-priced double-decker train hope you enjoy wild and scarce foraged Creative director Scott Bentley travel? Especially since air travel has mushrooms in one of our beautiful Marketing director Barbara Widera completely lost its allure unless you pay restaurants very soon. Sub-editors Jenni Moore, Emma Hughes through, and are seated in, the nose. Picture editor Leanne Bracey Nick Ferrari remembers, with glowing Cover illustration Rui Ricardo at Folio Art nostalgia, the glory days of being treated as a customer by the airlines and not Editors-at-large Paddy Renouf, Michael Karam like an inmate of a dystopian asylum. It was fortunate however that de Contributing editors William Sitwell, Gaulle did not live to see France’s RANALD MACDONALD Jonathan Wingate, Bruce Anderson greatest defeat in recent times, at the Editor & Chief and founder of Boisdale Ben Oliver, Bill Knott ‘Judgment of Paris’ in 1976. Michael Restaurants and Bars WELCOME TO BOISDALE LONDON’S ORIGINAL RESTAURANTS & BARS BOISDALE OF BELGRAVIA BOISDALE OF BISHOPSGATE BOISDALE OF MAYFAIR BOISDALE OF CANARY WHARF 7 BOISDALELIFE.COM AUTUMN 2018 ISSUE 13 DISCOVER THE NEW AUTUMN WINTER COLLECTION The new Purdey Technical Tweed combines the elegance of a traditional shooting coat with modern technology. This new tweed is two-thirds the weight of a typical tweed, achieved by weaving nylon threads into the fi bres, making it both lighter and more durable. Available in a field coat, vest and breeks, this is a must-have addition to the wardrobe of any serious sportsman. 57- 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET LONDON W1K 2ED + 44 (0) 20 7499 1801 PURDEY.COM BOISDALE LIFE FEATURED CONTRIBUTORS ALEXANDER ELLA WHELAN FISKE-HARRISON Ella Whelan is a journalist and author of the book An award-winning author, What Women Want: Fun, Freedom and an End to journalist and broadcaster, Feminism, whose writing has appeared in The Sun, Alexander Fiske-Harrison is also The Spectator, The Sunday Times and Spiked Online. one of the UK’s only trained In this issue, she rails against the myth of the bullfighters – a world he takes modern millennial (page 31) us into on page 48. Alexander is the editor of new book The Bulls of Pamplona, and author of Into the Arena: the World of the Spanish Bullfight ALYN SHIPTON One of the UK’s pre-eminent authorities on jazz, Alyn Shipton presents Jazz Record Requests on BBC Radio 3, is the author of several books on the subject, and a jazz bassist. In our new column on classic jazz albums (page 82), he looks at the 1961 live recordings of piano legend Bill Evans NICK HAMMOND Nick Hammond is an award- BILL KNOTT winning writer on subjects Food writer Bill Knott pens How To Spend It’s including cigars, luxury, travel ‘The Gannet’ restaurant review column, is the and the countryside. Nick wine writer for the Oldie, recipe columnist for traveled to Nicaragua to tell the BEN OLIVER Restaurant Magazine and an ambassador for story of the country’s thriving One of the UK’s leading car journalists, Ben Oliver specialises in Action against Hunger. As Boisdale restaurants cigar industry for his new book long-form adventure travel stories for publications including Car, put their autumnal focus on wild mushrooms, Cinco Decadas: The Rise Of The The Mail on Sunday, The Irish Times and Automobile. Having known Bill delves into the delights of morels, giant Nicaraguan Cigar, something he Elon Musk for several years, Ben reflects on the mercurial Tesla puffballs, amethyst deceivers et al on page 74 chronicles on page 28 CEO’s talents and controversies on page 44 Boisdale Life ISSN 2058-499 Any facts stated or opinions expressed anywhere in the magazine BPA Audited Circulation of 161,152 are the responsibility of the individual writers and contributors. All boisdale material omitted intentionally is the sole responsibility of the © 2018. Published four times individual contributors. Boisdale Life and the Editor are not Twitter @boisdalelife a year by Boisdale Limited, responsible for any injury or loss relative to such material. All Instagram @boisdalelife 15 Eccleston St, London, material is compiled by sources believed to be reliable, but Web boisdalelife.com SW1W 9LX published without responsibility for errors or omissions. 9 BOISDALELIFE.COM AUTUMN 2018 ISSUE 13 LONDON 71-72 JERMYN STREET | 4 DAVIES STREET | 23 BURY STREET | NEW YORK 50 EAST 57 TH STREET TURNBULLANDASSER.COM CONTENTS BOISDALE LIFE AUTUMN 2018 26 34 48 74 REGULARS TABLE TALK FEATURES PURSUITS 12 28 36 58 DIARY REPORT ARETHA FRANKLIN ADVENTURE The Boisdale Music Nick Hammond finds Jonathan Wingate looks Ranald Macdonald goes Awards, The Residencies, Nicaragua’s cigar industry back on the extraordinary hunting capercaillie in Boisdale Got Vibes, Editor’s is rising to the top life of the Queen of Soul Bulgaria’s mountains Lunch, Highclere Castle, Vacheron Constantin 30 40 62 MONEY THE JUDGMENT OF PARIS STEINWAY & SONS 19 Roger Bootle considers the The true story of the wine Timothy Barber heads to BOISDALE LIFE & TIMES link between interest rates tasting that rocked the Hamburg, where the world’s Lulu (above) on six decades and the political landscape French, by Michael Karam greatest pianos are made of music, plus Horace Andy, The King’s Ginger 31 44 66 cocktails and more SOCIETY ELON MUSK JEAN-DAVID MALAT Ella Whelan reckons What’s next for the crisis- Andy Jones meets the 70 Generation Snowflake are hit Tesla CEO and his art dealer to the A-list
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