p.26-28 great escapes.23 6/26/03 10:25 AM Page 26

The author in fine style. Banff National Park, Alberta, Canadian Rockies. High country hangs Rough it in Canadian Rockies luxury By Elinor Fish Photos by Woods Wheatcroft

t was late September when a multi-day running adventure in the Cana- and spectacular scenic rewards. dian Rockies turned unexpectedly into a freezing slog through knee- Jamie Carpenter and I set out from Fish deep powder snow. I knew we were taking a chance traveling over Creek Parking lot near Lake Louise for high-mountain passes that time of year, but we were determined to log Skoki Lodge in Banff National Park. We as many miles as possible before the high country got shut down. And do climbed 2600 feet over seven miles to Boul- so in high style. der Pass, where a lush alpine meadow sur- I linked together several trails with three different running partners, rounded sparkling Ptarmigan Lake. At spending nights in three historic backcountry lodges in two mountain parks. this point, we had done most of the climb- Covering around 20 miles a day carrying only the bare essentials, we ing and could follow our choice of well- were thankful to have first-class meals, beds with feather duvets, flannel worn trails, ranging from four to 21 miles, sheets and fresh towels waiting for us at each day’s end. to Skoki Lodge. Most trailheads began at about 5000 feet in elevation and ascended As we made our way along the narrow trail to mountain passes averaging 7500 feet. This sort of elevation gain cut deep in the soft alpine soil, we heard wasn’t harsh enough to induce severe muscle lactic-acid build-up or alti- the sharp call of pikas and hoary marmots tude problems; rather the ambling trails made for doable running from the surrounding rocky slopes. We

26 TRAILRUNNERMAG.COM p.26-28 great escapes.23 6/26/03 10:26 AM Page 27

Well fed and rested and with a backdrop — The Three Sisters — like this, the miles just zip by.

topped out on Deception Pass’s barren, pebbly crest at 8200 feet before flying down switchbacks to the sub-alpine spruce and fir forests of Skoki Valley. Longtime lodge manager Blake O’Brian gave us a warm welcome and invited us in to the 1930s peeled-log cabin for tea and fresh-baked cookies. We gladly removed our dusty running shoes and sat on the porch to enjoy our refreshments. Blake explained that pack horses travel the same trail we had just run to deliver groceries and supplies every few days. Somehow, knowing this made that night’s beef ten- derloin dinner taste that much better. The longest trail out of Skoki Valley ran along Johnston Creek for the distance of a marathon (26 miles), climbing over Molar Pass at 7750 feet before popping out at Moose Meadows near Banff. Taking this route, however, meant we needed a ride waiting to take us to the next leg starting at Red Earth Creek, 12 miles north of Banff. On this section, Katherine Hamilton and I followed Red Earth Creek fire road’s gentle uphill grade over nine miles to Brewster’s Shadow Lake Lodge, situated at 6000 feet. If we had wanted to really test our lung capacity, we could have tackled the punishing 2580-foot climb over 6.7 miles along Twin Lakes Trail from Castle Junction to panoramic Gibbon Pass. From there it’s a steep descent to the 1928 skier’s lodge, which served as a cozy refuge from the torrential rains that soaked us to the base layers during the approach. Over breakfast we discussed the trail con- ditions with the other lodge guests before opting for an awesome 16-mile circuit over Whistling Pass (7513 feet) to a cluster of lakes called Mummy, Egypt and Scarab, returning via rel- atively flat Pharaoh Covering around 20 MILES A DAY carrying only Creek trail. the BARE ESSENTIALS, we were thankful to Back at Shadow Lake Lodge we set have first-class meals, beds with FEATHER off on an epic DUVETS, flannel SHEETS and fresh TOWELS 31.5-mile trail that waiting for us at each day’s end. meanders over three mountain passes to Mount Assini- boine Lodge in Mount Assiniboine Provin- cial Park. The trail starts with a heinous

TRAILRUNNERMAG.COM 27 p.26-28 great escapes.23 6/27/03 12:54 PM Page 28

climb of 1527 feet to Healy Pass, beyond seeing tour. It was well worth paying the of the peak dubbed the “Matterhorn of the which the net elevation gain over the remain- extra fee to avoid having to carry weighty Rockies” back in 1928. Its remoteness, ing 24.2 miles from Sunshine Meadows is only packs during the long, wet approach. Sit- rugged beauty and popularity among adven- 1310 feet. My running partner Ben Smailes ting on elk-hide furniture in the Tea Room turous mountain climbers and skiers obvi- and I opted to spare ourselves and shorten it became clear what had motivated Marquis ously reminded him of his native Switzerland. the route to 17.5 miles by taking the White Delgi Albizzi to build this lodge at the base The next morning we arose to find our Mountain Adventures hiker’s return route via Bryant Creek shuttle to Sunshine Meadows, buried under two feet of snow thereby avoiding Healy Pass. and closed due to bear activ- Moving along the treeline, ity. Not entirely disappointed the golden larch needles and with the prospect of spending bright green lichens added another night, we enjoyed stunning color to the rocky great company and another alpine landscape as we fol- fabulous dinner of cilantro- lowed our route along the pesto-stuffed chicken, BBQ Continental Divide between salmon and rhubarb pie. Alberta and British Colum- Determined to conclude our bia. Near marshy Og Lake we trip on foot rather than by hel- spotted grizzly bear tracks in icopter with the other guests, the muddy trail — a reminder we improvised gaitors with plas- to respect the fact we were tic produce bags and duct tape deep into bear territory. and set out for seven hours of Barb Renner, Mount Ass- trail blazing back to Sunshine inboine Lodge owner since Meadows. Another trail-run- 1983 along with her husband, ning season had come to a win- Sepp, showed us to our room tery end, but we had made the as soon as we arrived. We gave most of the halcyon autumn our tired muscles a well- days in Canada’s high country. deserved sauna before chang- ing into fresh clothes. For only Elinor Fish is a media relations about $1 per pound, we had professional, writer, fitness trainer a small bag of extra clothing and competitive trail runner. She and comfy cabin slippers flown lives in Canmore, Alberta. in on that morning’s heli-sight- Churning on the Benchlands trails.

Trailhead: Banff National Park, Alberta Getting there. The Banff National Park boundary is 65 miles west of huts scattered throughout the Canadian Rockies. Visit www.alpineclubof- Calgary on the Trans-Canada Highway. The historic resort town of canada.com or call 403-678-3200. Banff (4537 feet) is 10 miles into the Park. The hamlet of Lake Weather. Trail runners will find the summer months (July through Sep- Louise (5039 feet) is another 37 miles west of Banff. The Park’s tember) the best time to visit, with temperatures ranging from 80 980 miles of backcountry trails are easily accessible from the Trans degrees F to freezing (it may snow any month of the year so be prepared!) Canada and secondary highways. and long days (the sun sets at 11 p.m. at the height of summer). Accommodations. There are over 100 hotels, lodges and chalet- Wildlife. The Parks Canada Information Centres (224 Banff Avenue style places to stay in Banff and Lake Louise. A full accommodation in Banff and in the Samson Mall in Lake Louise) are your best source listing is available at: www.BanffLakeLouise.com or call the Banff/Lake for trail conditions, maps and updates on wildlife activity. Call 403- Louise Tourism Bureau at 403-762-8421. 762-1550 for information. Advance reservations and minimum two-night stay are neces- Guidebooks. Gem Trek Guide-Maps are easy to follow yet detailed sary for all backcountry lodges: Skoki Lodge (www.skokilodge.com, topographical maps. You can find them in most stores in Banff or 403-522-3555); Brewster’s Shadow Lake Lodge (www.shad- online at www.Gemtrek.com/recreation_maps.html owlakelodge.com, 403-762-0116); Mount Assiniboine Lodge Don’t waste your time in the Canadian Rockies is an opinionated guide- (www.assiniboinelodge.com, 403-678-2883). The cost per person, book by Kathy and Craig Copeland (Voice in the Wilderness Press); per night (including dinner, breakfast and a bag lunch) begins at about www.wild.bc.ca $107 at Skoki Lodge and bumps up to $133 at Shadow Lake and Classic Hikes in the Canadian Rockies, by Graeme Pole (Altitude Mount Assiniboine Lodges. Publishing) is a comprehensive guide to trails and nature in the The Alpine Club of Canada maintains a network of backcountry National Parks; www.altitudepublishing.com

28 TRAILRUNNERMAG.COM