tell apelicanfrom flamingo. wield binocularshere, andcanrely onanexcellentnetworkoftrainedguides tohelpyou don’tgobeyondidentifyinganinner-citynithological pigeon,you’llbetempted skills to course throughmangrove-lined wetlandsandtheislandofGeorgetown. Even ifyouror- of over 300specieswillfollowyouasyour griots canbeexperiencedduringweddings,baptismsorpublicconcerts. ofkora-strumming performances andthestriking and sharpeningyournegotiationskills, arenas, of BanjulandSerekunda theheavingmarkets uptheatmosphere have yousoaking visitors.in byopen-eyed Traditionalwrestling matchesregularly placeinSerekunda’s take clamour ofthenearbycoast.AndThe Gambia’svibrantculture isalwaysthere to betaken the historicalslavingstationsofStJamesIslandandJufureh offer peacefulpausesfromthe country thansunandsurf. Stunningnature West,and reserves, suchasAbukoandKiang andbustlingfishingvillages.with luxuriousbeachresorts But there’s more toAfrica’s smallest shaped countryonthemap.Itsmagnificentcoastinvites visitors tolaze andlinger,tempting enveloped bySenegal.Butbeach-boundtouristshave longknownhowtotracethisoddly 500km longand50kmwide,and,withtheexceptionofan80km shoreline, it’sentirely It’s easytomissThe GambiaonamapofmightyAfrica. This tinysliver oflandisamere Gambia The 314 © LonelyPlanetPublications Bird-lovers country.Onatourupriver, willeasilybeseducedbythis compact thecries

      FAST FACTS      

Netherlands andSpain British Commonwealth, Scandinavian countries,Belgium, Germany, Visa Time to October) Seasons Population Money Languages Capital Budget Borders Coast, inSerekunda andattheairport ATMs Area Telephone CostUS$25 toUS$45,butare notrequired by citizens ofthe 11,295sqkm GMT/UTC At banksinBanjul,on theAtlantic Dalasi;US$1=D27 US$20toUS$40perday Dry(November toApril), hot(MaytoJune),wet(July Countrycode English, Mandinka, Wolof,Fula English,Mandinka, 1.6million % 220; international accesscode pirogue (traditional canoe) charts aleisurely (traditionalcanoe)charts % 00

ber toFebruary (daytimemaximumsaround dry andrelatively coolmonths fromNovem- Most touriststravel toTheGambiaduringthe CLIMATE &WHENTOGO lonelyplanet.com monopolised trade alongthe West African monopolised navigators landed onJames Islandand quickly The Gambia. By1456the first Portuguese their influence over the region thatisnow and Mali (13thto15th centuries) extended The Empires of Ghana(5th to11thcenturies) HISTORY ITINERARIES lush andtherivers swelling. upcountry roadsinaccessible,vegetation is toaround 30°C,therainsmakerise some whentemperatureslasts untillate September, life andbirds. 24°C). Thisisalsothebesttimetowatch wild- HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS       

ture reserve. giant crocodilesinAfrica’ssmallestna- array of birdlife forcompany. down theGambiaRiver with anamazing NationalPark this traditionalfishingvillage. upthebusyatmosphereing only;soak of Gunjur glitzy touristresorts. dance tillyoudropinTheGambia’s Kololi Abuko carhorns. and beeping market tothesoundof boomingreggae TheGambia’smostcrammedthrough market Serekunda Abuko ( Nature Reserve p325 ). village of Gunjur ( p325 ) andthecute of Tanjibird reserve ( p325 ), thefishing ( Banjul p318 ), thepretty and museum busy market of ( Serekunda p324 ), sleepy and tieintheoccasionaldaytrip tothe the beaches of theAtlantic Coast( p320 ), One Week The wet season starts aroundlate Juneand starts The wetseason

Park ( p326 Su( Santa ) andBasse p327 to Wassu( ). p326 ), River GambiaNational where youcantake a river trip up toGeorgetown ( p326 ), Bolong( tang p326 ). Treat yourself to and take aridetomangrove-hidden Bin- then goona Two Weeks ( p320 ) Lounge atthebeach, then ( p325 aren’t forsunbath- ) Beaches ( p325 ) Lookoutforrare birdsand Spend agoodamountof timeat Follow the one-week itinerary, Followtheone-week THEGAMBIA••Highlights Roots ( p324 ) Weave yourway tourtoJufureh ( p325 ) pirogue ( p326 ) Cruise excursions Jawara, of leader thePeople’s Progressive Party, andDavidGambia, Bathurst became Banjul, pendence wasachieved. Gambia becameThe ittooktwomorethough years untilreal inde- into French custody. surrounding territory hadfallen of Senegal became acrowncolony,bywhich timethe ate In1888Gambia ruledfromSierraLeone. the territory wasdeclared aBritishprotector- ence furtherupstream untilthe1820s,when abolition of slavery in1807. collectionpointforslavesportant untilthe of ships.FortJames continuedtobeanim- the GambiaRiver, tocontrolthemovement atthemouthofand Bathurst (nowBanjul), African kings.Newfortswere builtatBarra threatconstant fromFrench ships,pirates and by theBritish,whofoundthemselves under Island in1651,andwere displacedin1661 gold andslaves. and gunpowderforivory,ebony,beeswax, exchanging iron,potsandpans,firearms salt, the15thand16thcenturies, coast throughout two coups were hatched – but thwarted with enues didnot trickledown theeconomic scale, nut prices fell inthe1980s, andtourismrev- a fullyfledged republic in1970. As ground- became president when TheGambia became the 1960s.Jawara consolidated hispower,and package tourismled tosomethingof aboomin became PrimeMinister Dawda Jawara. Gambia became self-governing in1963Gambia becameself-governing The Britishcontinuedtoextend theirinflu- High groundnut pricesandtheadventHigh of Baltic Germans first Germans builtafortonJamesBaltic

     LONELY INDEX PLANET      MUCH? HOW

Shwarma Souvenir T-shirt Bottle ofFlag/Julbrew 1L bottledwater 1L petrol One hourinternet French bread Sandwich Newspaper Soft drink US$1.10 (andrising) US$1.50 US$0.55 US$2 US$0.35 US$0.30 US$9 US$1 US$0.60 US$0.60

315 THE GAMBIA GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA tal ranks. That same year,thecountryagain ranks.Thatsame tal attempt ledtothe‘cleansing’of governmen- and inMarch 2006,analleged coupd’état opposition toanewcontroversial medialaw, was assassinated after having expressed his 2004, prominentjournalistDeyda Heydara watchdogs were alertwhen,in allputathigh groups anddemocratic ably. Human-rights won the1996presidential electioncomfort- pressure, Republic and inaugurated aSecond 30-year-old Jammeh bowedtointernational After withdictatorship, abriefflirtation the Today Gambia The less coupledbyLieutenant Yahya Jammeh. Jawara wasoverthrown inareportedly blood- popular discontent Finally,inJuly1994, rose. increased, economicdeclinecontinuedand by1989.Meanwhile,collapsed corruption the first step tounification,buttheunion reportedlyunder thenameof , the 1982confederation of thetwocountries assistance. Thiscooperationled to Senegalese 316 ing ‘gateway toAfrica’, where local culture is Gambia asthe ‘Smiling Coast’, awelcom- Holiday brochures like todescribe The CULTURE Daboe. sainou five years after defeating hismain rivalOus- Jammeh wasswornin aspresident foranother Gambia willchange dramatically, asYahya unlikely thatthefutureseems direction of The background of increasing autocracy. Itnow prepared forelections,thistimeagainst a Bird Reserve To Kafountine THE GAMBIA Tanji River A TLNIC (25km) O CEAN H ABA • utr THE GAMBIA••Culture ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ (Niumi NationalPark) Kololi Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Tanji Sanyang Tujering Kotu Kartong Darsilami Fajara Gunjur Ginak Island ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ Brikama Diouloulou Serekunda Bakau Nature Reserve Faraba Banta Séléti International Abuko Airport Banjul To Ziguinchor Giboro ὅὅ ὅὅ BANJUL (73km) Barra Albreda Tumani Tenda Lamin Bessi Karang ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ Jufureh Island James Somita To Kaolack(55km); Dakar (247km) Bintang Gambia Kuntair Sibanor Ὀ ὈὈὈ L owerGambi

Bwiam River R iver upcountry towns totry andmake aliving from Coast, thearea manypeople migrate tofrom the zones attheAtlantic is around theurbanised in Africa. The strongest concentration of people bia hasone of population densities thehighest With around 115peopleper sqkm,TheGam- PEOPLE are calmer andmore dignified. on theground,but therhythmsof river life more isolated. Opportunities maybethinner native reality emerges, onethatispoorer and for others’ welfare. Further upriver, analter- gations of communityandagenuine concern tempered bythepleasures of family,theobli- scramble tomake andget endsmeet ahead, the polishedsmilesandtouristhustling. into thereal Gambia,theonethatliesbeyond of topics,andgraduallygrantyouaninsight silencesinconversationstand ortheavoidance plague thepopulationwillhelpyou tounder- awarebe listening. of Being thetroublesthat know whomight politics openly–younever ple willexpress theirviewsongovernmental are often conducted withcare, andfew peo- climatein acertain of distrust.Conversations typicalofwise thecountry. relations andtherespectful interaction other- mass tourismhassomewhatdistorted social resortscountry, awayfromthecoastal where real iseasierfoundup- though hospitality descriptions, someof thesmilestillremains, easily accessible. Wipingthegloss those off Kerewan

Modern Gambianlife consistsof the Years of rulehave authoritarian alsoresulted Bintang S ENGAL Kanilai S ENGAL National Park Salikene

Kiang West Bolong ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ Ὀ Ὀ Bondali Joli Baobolong Wetland Reserve Kalagi

Tendaba

Kwinella

Tr ans-Gambia To Kaolack(45km); Katchang Dakar (237km) Genieri

Trans Hwy ὈὈ Nding Pakali lonelyplanet.com -Gambia Hwy ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ Farafenni To Bignona (45km) Mansa Konko Soma Jappeni ὅὅ ὈὈ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅ (comprising around42%),theWolof (about Gambia’s populationisunder14years old. the touristindustry.Forty-five percentof The lonelyplanet.com and Rebellion theRecaller. reggae artists such as theDancehall Masters Dindin Jobarteh, singer Jelibah Kuyateh and the kora-playing brothers Pa Bobo andTata reggae. Renownedlocal musiciansinclude artists andJamaicandominated bySenegalese Today TheGambia’s musicsceneismainly andbeyond. impact inTheGambia, Senegal hadahuge Sosse andsinger Labah Eagles rican music.Groups like theAfro-funky Super ofential inthedevelopment modernWest Af- Dembo Konte andMalamini Jobarteh. Jobarteh, JaliAmadou Bansang NyamaSuso, pire of Mali. Famous koraplayers include ofafter Em- thegradualcollapse themighty when Malinké intheregion groupssettled try became averitable centre of koraplaying connected toTheGambia. Thistinycoun- historyisdeeply theworldwhose throughout the hapandlute), aniconof Africanmusic stringed instrument combiningfeatures of The Gambiaisamajor centre of the kora(a &CRAFTS ARTS Serer. extent theamong theJolaandtoalesser Muslim. Christianfaithismostwidespread andJola.groups includetheSerer 16%) andtheFula(around18%).Smaller Kau-ur Dankunku ὈὈ ὈὈὈ In the1960sTheGambia washugely influ- The mainethnicgroupsare theMandinka About 90%of TheGambia’spopulationis Fula Kunda ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ Piniai Baro Kunda Njau Sotokoi ὅὅ Charmen ὅ THE GAMBIA •• Arts &Crafts THEGAMBIA••Arts River Gambia National Park ὈὈ Ὀ ὅὅὅ ὅὅ ὅ Baboon (Jangjang-bureh) Island ὅὅ ὅὅ Georgetown Kuntaur Wassu Wassu StoneCircles Pata S ENGAL MacCarthy Sankuli Kunda Island Bansang Ὀ Forest Park Kunkilling Yorofoula Médina- ὅ ὅὅ ὅ ὅ S ENGAL

Forest Park ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ Gambia Dobo in tomato, fish and vegetable sauce). villages alsofacedwindlingstocksas aresult mining.TheGambia’sfishing by illegalsand beach erosionontheAtlantic Coast,caused mentioned inthis chapter. Kiang West,GambiaRiver andTanji –are four mostaccessibleandinteresting –Abuko, coveringreserves, 3.7%of thelandmass.The gallery forests marshes. andsaline whichtation, consistslargely of savannah, overthan 10minelevation 450km)orvege- ations inaltitude(theGambiaRiver less loses Gambia River. There are few significantvari- and itsterritory isentirely dominated bythe Wales, orlessthantwicethatof Delaware) smallest countryinAfrica(halfthe sizeof At only11,295sqkm,TheGambia isthe ENVIRONMENT d irections. pushintonewcreativeand ToimboLaurens contemporary artistssuch Fall Baboucar wax tocover areas nottobedyed),which of batikmaking(where fabricisprinted using masks ondisplay.Alsofascinatingistheart examples of andcarved traditionalstatues groundnut sauce) and groundnut sauce) National dishes include FOOD & DRINK upcountry regions. of overfishing, whiledeforestation plaguesthe Sare Bojo ὅὅὅ The most visible environmental problemis The mostvisibleenvironmental The Gambiahassixnationalparks and Banjul’s national museum hasafew nationalmuseum good Banjul’s Ὀ Ὀ Diabugu ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ

River ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ Maka Darsilami Sabi U perGambi ὅ ὅ 0 0 Vélingara Basse SantaSu ὅ ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ Ὀ R iver benechin domodah ὅὅὅ ὅὅ Sutukoba To Kolda (103km) (rice cooked Fatoto Médina Gounas To Tambacounda Tambacounda (rice with 30 km ὅ ὅ 20 miles Kantale (48km) Kunda

(10km)

317 To THE GAMBIA GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA cheques andhasanATM thatacceptsVisacards. Visa cards. Changes travellerscheques andhasanATM thataccepts ment, butfacilitiesaren’t great. mainhospital hasanA&EDepart- 22 Dr)TheGambia’s 10pm) Internetaccess. h Main postoffice Main IBC Bank Gamtel Banjul Pharmacy INFORMATION rarely visited bytourists. maze of narrowstreets andramshackle houses 17 Roundaboutistheoldpartof – a Banjul Market intoLiberationSt.Westof theOctober St,which leadspastthebustlingAlbert Russell here, mainstreets run south,including several The July22Sqisthecentre of town.From ORIENTATION resortsseaside lack. of historythatTheGambia’splusha sense fading colonialstructures are imbuedwith and at itsbusybest,whiletheoldmuseum kets andhecticharbourshowurban Africa istrulyworthavisit.Itscolourfulmar-Banjul neglect thathauntsitssand-blown streets, of seaport YetBanjul. despite theshadowof consistently ignored citythanthetiny capital It’s hardtoimagineamore unlikely, more pop 50,000 BANJUL baobab tree). sorrel), to any of thelocaljuicesfrom country areas. Foranonalcoholic drink,try rice) are alsoavailable, especiallyintheup- waters’ (madefromdistilledsugarcaneor beverage. Localpalmwineandvarious‘fire- 318 and at Albert Market. tourists are easy prey at theferry terminals ferryThe Barra isrife with pickpockets, and DANGERS &ANNOYANCES Bank Standard Chartered Teaching Hospital Royal Victoria Quantumnet Has telephone facilities next door.Has telephonefacilitiesnext Across theroadfromhospital. JulBrew, isarefreshing thelocalbeer, 8am-midnight) Internetaccess. AJL • retto BANJUL ••Orientation

Internet Café Internet ( % bouyi (Nelson Mandela St;perhrUS$1; (NelsonMandela 4428145; LiberationSt)Changestravellers (RussellSt; ( (madefromthefruitsof the % (July 22Dr;perhrUS$1; (July 4227470; ( h % bissap 8am-4pm Mon-Sat) h 4222081; EcowasAve) ( % 9am-8.30pm) (madefrom 4228223; July h 9am- and felafel. reputation forits with adeserved just akebab shop, this placeisaninstitution snacks from US$2, mealsUS$5-7; great fishand chips. serves bia’s snackbarwith theprettiest name,italso Ave; snacksfromUS$1.50) US$0.80. where plates atabout of start riceandsauce cheapfind several chop shopsandstreets stalls end of LiberationStandAlbertMarket, you’ll tle beyondfast-food joints.Aroundthenorth ishardlyaculinaryhaven,Banjul offering lit- EATING &DRINKING plenty of activitiesonoffer. atmosphere, adecentswimmingbeach and this upmarket hotel attractswithapersonal About towardsSerekunda, 3kmfromBanjul grovehotel.co.uk; s/dinclbreakfast US$41/66; water andindoortoilets. more upmarket, withluxurieslike running s/d US$18/20,withair-conUS$28/30; gle roompricesdoubleifyouwantair-con. p eople-watching andthebestbudget bet.Sin- aboveguesthouse abusyshop isgreat for Liberation St;s/d/trUS$12.50/18/22; Ferry Guesthouse SLEEPING eared, dated exhibitsthatare worthalook. h aboutthecoupd’état. and asmallmuseum views. There’s alsoacosycafé,souvenir shop coupofmilitary 22July1994,grantsexcellent massive, gateway 36m-high builttocelebrate the tiful craftworkatreasonable prices. Mon-Thu, tonoonFri) ( ing, the most anythinghere andthensome. souvenirs atthe plaitstotourist-tempting fabrics andfalse hubofBanjul’s activity.Fromshimmering buying, bartering and bargaining, hasbeen Market Albert Since itscreation inthemid-19thcentury, &ACTIVITIES SIGHTS % Palm Grove Hotel Palm Grove Hotel Carlton Tucked build- awayinanancientPortuguese Ali BabaSnack Bar AllesKlarFastMandela Food The Arch 22 8am-4pm Mon-Thu, &Sat) to1pmFri 4228836; [email protected]; EcowasAve;4228836; [email protected]; National St Joseph’s Adult Education & Skills Centre St Joseph’sAdultEducation&Skills (July 22Dr;admissionUS$1.25; (July Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

(Russell St)

(

offers tree tours beau- andsells % Museum Museum

Craft Market Craft (Ami’s Guesthouse;

4228670; fax4227214;25July22Dr; ThisisnotonlyThe Gam- ( ( % % , anarea of frenzied 4201620; www.gambia-palm 4224055; Nelson Mandela St; 4224055; Nelson Mandela h (July 22Dr;admissionUS$1; (July 9am-5pm) a , youcanfindal- a ( % hassomedog- ) h Thisisalittle ) Thissimple % 4223455; Ecowas More than 9am-11pm) h shwarmas 4222028; 28 as 9am-2pm , a )

lonelyplanet.com 4 6 1 3 2 5 BANJUL Denton Bridge(3km);PalmGrove To BacchiusBeachBar(3km); ὅὅ ὅὅ International Airport(30km) Hotel (3km);Bakau(7km); Serekunda (15km);Banjul SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION St Joseph'sAdult Education D2 Main PostOffice...... C3 Guinean Consulate...... &SkillsCentre...... National Museum...... Craft Market...... Arch 22...... Albert Market...... Standard CharteredBank...... Sierra LeoneHighCommission..... Royal VictoriaTeachingHospital.. Quantumnet...... Immigration Office...... IBC Bank...... Gamtel InternetCafé...... Banjul Pharmacy...... Wallace Cole Rd ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ AC

12 Jeremiah Allen St Allen Jeremiah BANJUL

Samba Njammeh Nyang St Alhassan Ndure St Ndure Alhassan

Mosque Rd 21 Dawur Gaye St Gaye Dawur

Sagarr Jobe St Jobe Sagarr

Antouman Faal St Faal Antouman

Jallow Jallow St Jallow Jallow 2

Tafsir Demba Ndow St Ndow Demba Tafsir

Jack Chow St Chow Jack

Tafsir Wally Joof St Joof Wally Tafsir

Ousman Jeng St Jeng Ousman Amie Sarr St Sarr Amie 16 15 14 13 12 11 10

9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Tanbi Wetland Dr 22 July D3 C2 D2 A1 D2 D3 C4 C1 D3 C4 D3 B1 C2

Complex Alpha Tapsiru St Ousman Njie Keen St

Muammar al Gadhafi Ave Gadhafi al Muammar Kankujeri Rd Kankujeri

Master Fowlis St B

Kerewan Sound...... Michel's ...... Mandela Alles KlarFastFood..... King ofShwarmaCafé...... Ali BabaSnackBar...... Carlton Hotel...... SHOPPING EATING SLEEPING er ushue...... D4 Ferry Guesthouse...... Abdou Wally Mbye St Mbye Wally Abdou

ὈὈ

Rebecca Savage St Savage Rebecca J. R. Forster St Forster R. J.

Mam Mberry Njie St

Rev William Cole St Pierre Njie Tce

Hannah Forster St 8

Rene Blain St 1 Marma Bah St

Freedom Cherno Adama Bah St Bah Adama Cherno

Lane

ὈὈ

Tafsir Balla Tafsir Joof St Joof 26 1km 0.5miles 0 0

22 21 20 19 18 17 16 Ma Cumba Jallow St Tafsir Ebou Samba St Samba Ebou Tafsir Roundabout October 17

14 Imam Lamin Bah St Bah Lamin Imam D2 A1 D3 D3 D3 B1 Town

Old

Serign Sillah St Sillah Serign

Davidson Carrol St Carrol Davidson House Brown St Brown State

Daniel Goddard St 27 West CoastAirways...... Pirogues toBarra...... Brikama...... Minibuses toBakau...... Ferry toBarra...... Air Guinée...... Minibuses toSerekunda & D3 Air SénégalInternational...... TRANSPORT Out ofBounds July 22Sq

OAU Blvd This Area 5 Strictly

9 Nelson Mandela St St Mandela Nelson Memorial 3 23 29 War

Ecowas Ave Fountain 10 7 to AlbertMarket 17 Main Entrance 15 24 25 28

A TLNIC 18 St Russell 20 4 O CEAN Liberation St 19 22 11 D 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 6 13 C3 D4 C2 C2 D4 C3 To Barra

(5km) 319 THE GAMBIA GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA depends entirely skills;ex- onyourhaggling thepriceyoupay to US$15.Withyellowtaxis, costsaroundUS$10 tional AirporttoBanjul Interna-A green fromBanjul touristtaxi To/From theAirport AROUND GETTING see details, p329 . garage. allgofromSerekunda For ern Senegal, and upcountrytowns,toplaces insouth- person orUS$20ifyouhire thewholeboat). pirogues cellations are frequent. Small,overcrowded delaysandcan- and take onehour,though onetotwohoursevery from7amuntil7pm northern bankof theriver. Theynormallyrun US$5-7) by air,see p329 . For informationontravelling to/fromBanjul THERE&AWAY GETTING best placetobuyCDsandcassettes. also find Market ( p318 ). Nearthemainentrance,you’ll thebestplacetogoshoppingisAlbert In Banjul, SHOPPING dig intoaplatter of grilledfish. beach barisagreat placetosipadrinkand Next tothePalm Grove Hotel, this busylittle pressed juice. better,what’s even large of glasses freshly food,and excellentLebanese place serves St; mealsUS$5-10; drinks. d inner from thebreakfast menuallthewaytoafter- h 320 a short ride across Banjul city centrea short ride across Banjul will to yourself (known asa‘town trip’), In a taxi Taxi Private Sq. See p329 for more information. leave fromaroadsidecorneropposite July 22 22 Dr. andBrikama toSerekunda Minibuses opposite theShellthe stand onJuly station leave toBakau minibuses from From Banjul, Taxi &Shared Minibus is noairportbus. Therepect topayUS$5.50US$7Banjul. Minibuses andMercedesMinibuses toBrikama buses Ferries Bacchius BeachBar Michel’s King ofShwarmaCafé King 8am-11pm) EEUD H TATCCAT • retto SEREKUNDA &THEATLANTIC COAST ••Orientation travel between Banjul and Barra, onthe travel andBarra, Banjul between alsomake thecrossing(US$2per

Kerewan Sound Kerewan ( %

( % Aclassy placethat’sexcellent 4228205; LiberationSt;passengersD10,cars h 4223108; 29July22Dr;mealsUS$5-10; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat)

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( (Russell St) % 4227948; mealsUS$5-15) 4229799; Nelson Mandela 4229799; NelsonMandela , TheGambia’s Thisfriendly

10pm) for this British-run clinic,offAtlantic Rd. for this British-run illness,head If you find yourself withapotentially serious 11pm); Medical Research Council Research Medical Services Medical Quantumnet Gamtel area, especially alongKairaba Ave. There are nowdozens of cybercafésinthis Access Internet Alliance Franco-Gambienne Centres Cultural Timbooktoo Bookshops INFORMATION Junction isthehubof itswheel. metres inland,is areal city,andWestfield big touristcentre. acoupleof Serekunda, kilo- ing villages thathave nowmerged intoone Strand andKololiare astringof formerfish- Fajara,Running north–south,Bakau, Kotu ORIENTATION on thedancefloor. spend longdaysonthebeach andlate nights (touts andhustlers), thisisagreat placeto persistent ganjapeddlers andbeach ‘bumsters’ tourists flock.Ifyoucanmanage tododge the Strand andKololiare where thesun’n’sea Atlantic Coastresorts of Fajara, Bakau, Kotu to consistof onebig,busymarket. Thenearby the nation’slargest urbancentre, andappears Chaotic, splitting-at-the-seams is Serekunda pop 260,000 ATLANTIC COAST SEREKUNDA &THE to US$7. Fajara, KotuorKololicostsaroundUS$5.50 Serekunda, toBakau, fromBanjul vate taxi cost aboutUS$1,after bargaining. Apri- good, cheaprestaurant (mealsfromUS$1). filmsandexhibitions,a Hasregular concerts, Mon-Fri) Ave, ancefrance.gm; Kairaba Serekunda; papers. 10am-8pmSat)Thebest placeforinternational 3-7pm Fri, Rd,Fajara;Jahumpa Serekunda

Kololi ( ( ( % % % (Westfield Junction; (WestfieldJunction; 4494345; cnr Kairaba Ave 4494345; cnrKairaba &Garba 4377878; Senegambia Strip; Strip; 4377878; Senegambia h 4494514; Kairaba Ave;4494514; Kairaba 10am-7pm Mon-Thu, 10am-1pm& (MRC; (MRC; ( % % h 4375418; www.alli lonelyplanet.com h 4495446; Fajara) 8am-11pm) h 9.30am-5pm 8.30am- h 9am- Serekunda option, atWestfieldJunction. Kairaba Ave,Kairaba Fajara) www.gambiariver.com; off [email protected]; informationservice. official tourist of thebestsourcesinformationinabsence ofan One Hotel,Senegambia) [email protected]; Kairaba Trust Bank Bank Standard Chartered for afee. Hotel gives cashadvancesonMastercards nexttotheSenegambia Office bia Experience you’re unlikely toget abetter rate. TheGam- tourist miles,somepartof supermarkets, but exchange bureaus scattered around thebusy openinghours).standard There are alsoafew ATMs allacross theresort zone(see p327 for have branches withVisa-loving andIBC Bank Chartered,The mainbanks,Standard Trust Money Westfield Clinic Pharmacy Stop Steps lonelyplanet.com avoid going tobeaches ontheir own. outside Kairaba Hotel. Women should always ices of tourist guides(OTGs) the official based wanted offers, andto besafe, rely ontheserv- firm butpolite whenyoudecline anyun- Be hustlingby‘bumsters’.deal withtheconstant tourists, andespecially women, willhave to Crime rates are inSerekunda low;however, DANGERS &ANNOYANCES Olympic Travel Tours Gambia Experience River Gambia Most travel agencies are onKairaba Ave. Agencies Travel Tropical Tour&Souvenirs Information Tourist Serekunda. and private tele centres Kololiand inBakau, raba Ave. There are plentyof Gamtel offices Fajaraway between off Kai- andSerekunda, The mainpostoffice Post &Telephone Badala Park Way,nearSenegambia) with agoodcatalogueofexcursions. Coastal Rd,southofKoloi)Anindependenttour operator place for booking tickets. place forbooking chains around,withbranchesallalongthecoast. h 9am-10pm Mon-Sat) One of the best-stocked pharmacy 9am-10pm Mon-Sat)Oneofthebest-stocked ( % Bakau 4396102; Kairaba Ave)4396102; Kairaba ( ( % ( %

( % % SEREKUNDA&THEATLANTIC COAST ••Dangers&Annoyances 446260; www.gambiatours.gm; off 497204; Garba Jahumpa Rd)Agood Jahumpa 497204; Garba 4398448; Serekunda) Another 4398448; Serekunda) ( 4495486); %

is located abouthalf- ( 4371344; Serekunda; 4371344; Serekunda; ( Bakau Bakau % % Kololi 4494360; 4460536; ( % ( % 4495046); 4465303; passable roomsforthebudget-bound.passable catering facilities. has large, clean rooms,somefeaturing self- spotting monkeys and birds. at Kololi.The4.5kmnature trailisgreat for a smallnature ontheAtlanticCoast reserve Bakau; dUS$18) Bakau; overlanders. southwest of isrunbyexperienced Serekunda This well-organised campingsite andhostel s/d US$8.50/12.20,dwithbathroomUS$16.60; campingperpersonUS$3.60,vehicleUS$0.50, Sukuta; Sukuta Budget SLEEPING workshops. for excellentAfricanpercussionand dance Ave, Kairaba Serekunda) 4392517; www.batafonarts.co.uk; try Note thatcurrents canbevery strong. erosion. Thebestonesare inFajara andKotu. trips. catamaran windsurfing or your jet-skiing,parasailing, ( there,based includingthe pirogue Bridge) judging bytheirnumbers. local peopleandperhapsfortourists,too, croc atthe chances. calm surroundings,andgoodbird-spotting a peacefulplacethatoffers someshadein In Bakau, &ACTIVITIES SIGHTS a swimming pool. around with spotless, two-room bungalows set Lodge surprises pleasantly the small Bakau suites woodendécor. withbright Rd hasairyrooms andlarge self-catering sc tic Rd, Bakau; adult/childUS$1.80/free; tic Rd,Bakau; s admission US$1; B&B US$6.25) % Jabo Guesthouse If drummingappealsmore thanswimming, The Gambia’sbeaches badlyfrom suffer The Teranga Suites Kanifeng YMCA Kanifeng ParkBijilo Forest You canget andpersonal upclose witha Bakau Lodge Bakau ) Located intheheartof ’hood, theBakau Batafon Arts 7765765; DentonBridge) isthebestplacetoarrange fishingand

) Camping Camping Thisjewelof off Kololi aguesthouse excursions. Various companies are Sportsfishing Centre Sportsfishing

Thishuge buildinghasjustabout the Kachikaly Kachikaly Crocodile Pool This down-to-earth guesthouse Thisdown-to-earth guesthouse h

Botanic Gardens ( % (

9am-6pm) %

( (

( % ( % %

% /fax 4496103; Bakau; dfromUS$23; /fax 4496103; Bakau; (admission US$1; 9917786; www.campingsukuta.de; 9917786; www.campingsukuta.de; in UK 01273 605791, in Gambia in UK01273605791,Gambia 4392647; www.ymca.gm; Fajara; 4461961; s/d/steUS$18/27/36; 4494906, 7777082;9OldCapeRd, , , asacred site forthe

which canorganise

Watersports Centre Watersports ( %

(

% h 7765765; Denton h 7774482; Atlan- 8am-4pm) (Bakau village; (Bakau 8am-6pm) pc 321 are

is

)

THE GAMBIA GAMBIA THE ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ

THE GAMBIA 322 Bijilo Forest 4 6 1 3 2 5 ATLANTIC COASTRESORTS&SEREKUNDA Senegambia 27 Park Hotel Kololi Point

18 EEUD H TATCCAT • tatcCatRsrs&Srkna SEREKUNDA &THEATLANTIC &Serekunda COAST ••AtlanticCoastResorts Teranga Suites...... Safari GardenHotel...... Roc Height'sLodge...... Leybato...... Kanifeng YMCA...... Kairaba Hotel...... Jabo Guesthouse...... Francisco's Hotel...... Fajara Guesthouse...... Coconut Residence...... Bakotu Hotel...... Bakau Lodge...... Kachikaly CrocodilePool...... Botanic Gardens...... Bijilo ForestParkHeadquarters... Batafon Arts...... Westfield Clinic...... US Embassy...... Trust BankKololi...... Trust BankBakau...... Tropical Tour&Souvenirs...... (see27) Timbooktoo...... Stop StepsPharmacy...... (see41) Serekunda...... Senegalese HighCommission...... Quantumnet...... (see 12) Post Office...... Olympic Travel...... (see12) Medical ResearchCouncil...... Mauritanian Consulate...... IBC BankSerekunda...... Guinea-Bissau Embassy...... (see10) Gamtel Office...... (see13) Gamtel Office...... Gamtel Office...... Gambia ExperienceOffice...... (see27) British HighCommission...... Alliance Franco-Gambienne...... tnadCatrdBn aa. E2 Standard CharteredBank Standard CharteredBankBakau.. INFORMATION SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Senegambia Strip Senegambia 33 4 ABCD To GambiaTours (1km); Kololi (19km); Gunjur(28km) 54 Tanji (8km); Sanyang 49 23 14 70 6 Badala Park Way 53

42 50 Palma Rima Rd Rima Palma Point Kotu 64 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

B5 C3 F2 C3 E4 A6 F2 C3 C3 A6 C4 E2 F3 E2 A6 D5 E5 D4 A6 E2 D3 E5 D4 E5 D3 A6 E6 A6 E5 C3 E5

32 Kololi Rd Kololi 59 ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING Waaw...... Teranga BeachClub...... Lama Lama...... Jokko...... Jazziz...... Destiny...... Weezo's...... Come Inn...... (see38) Chapman's...... (see 36) Restaurant...... Yok...... (see 55) Solomon's BeachBar...... (see53) St Mary'sFood&Wine...... Sailor's BeachBar...... Safe WayAfraKing...... Pepper's TropicalRestaurant....(see54) Mama's Restaurant...... Luigi's ItalianRestaurant...... Harry's Supermarket...... Eddie's Bar&Restaurant...... Come Inn...... Clay Oven...... Chapman's...... Butcher's Shop...... Atlantic Bar&Restaurant...... Ali Baba's...... EATING Youth MonumentBar& D5 Kairaba Supermarket...... Kotu Mannjai Kunda 22 45

Badala Park Beach Kotu To Sukuta Camping(1.5km); 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 A6 A5 E2 E6 A5 A5 C3 E5 F2 C4 D5 C3 A5 D4 C3 D5 D3 E2 C3 E2 A6

Kotu Sukuta (2km)

Way Golf Club Stream Fajara Fajara TRANSPORT iiue oBnu eeud. E2 Minibuses toBanjul&Serekunda.. Tippa Garage...... (see61) Taxi Stand...... SN Brussels...... Slok AirAirlines...... Shared TaxistoFajara&Bakau... Minibuses toBanjul...... Minibuses toBanjul...... Hertz...... (see 61) Green TaxiRank...... Gambia RiverExperience...... Bus &TaxiStop...... Boketh TotalStation...... Bellview Airlines...... AB Rent-A-Car...... (see27) Village Gallery&Restaurant...... Serekunda Market...... Salam Batik...... Bakau Market...... African LivingArtCentre...... SHOPPING Beach 29 24 25 43 2 48 31 39 35 12 Fajara

Garba Jahumpa Rd (New Town Rd) Atlantic Rd 37 61 Kairaba Ave (Pipeline Rd) (Pipeline Ave Kairaba 7

Sukuta Rd Serekunda 69 55 59 58 57 56 55 71 70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 9 E2 A5 D4 E5 E5 D6 B5 D3 D6 D6 E5 B5 D6 D6 E2 D3 40

Mosque

Footbridge 44 Mosque Rd Mosque 15 65 63 41 58 38 57 62 17 Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 10 A TLNIC 5 Football 13 8 Field O CEAN Independence 71 1 28 66 60 Jetty

67 Stadium

11

Kombo Kombo Sillah Dr Sillah 52 Church Catholic Kanifeng E 16 68 3 To AbukoNature Reserve(7km); 47 56 34 51 Market Banjul International Airport Craft (15km); Brikama(21km) Westfield

Junction Sayer Jobe Ave (Sukuta Rd) Jimpex Rd Jimpex 19 21 1km 0.5miles 0 0 ὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ 36 Sportsfishing Centre(11km); Watersports Centre(11km);

26

20 To DentonBridge(11km); Crocodile Pool Rd Cape Old Kachikaly Bakau Some MinorRoads Cape Point

30 Saitmatty Rd Saitmatty Samba Not Depicted

Breku Rd 46 Banjul (14km) F SEREKUNDA&THEATLANTIC COAST ••Eating

ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ (Cape Rd) (Cape 4 6 1 3 2 5 classy five-star palace,allamenitiesandser- enough to house coupleswithchildren. tohouse enough Rooms are basicbutclean,andsomeare big yard andwelcominglounge give itcharacter. rooms, agoodrestaurant, andexceptionally Fajara, headforKairaba Ave where there’s streets of Serekunda. For supermarkets in othersand several scattered the through entrance, around themarket station andtaxi There are cheap several eateries inKololi EATING your wholeholiday. betemptedyou might not toleave during labyrinthine, anything-can-be-arranged place government-owned hotel isthekindof vast, s/dUS$155/190; Senegambia; gardens andthecarefully designedrooms. character flavours theair of thelushtropical vices comewrappedinsophisticated chic, and Coconut Residence End Top ant garden. and hascomfyterrace apartmentsinapleas- s/d US$45/54; with fullyequippedkitchen. garden, andhasstylishroomsapartments This stunningthree-storey villasitsinaquiet s/dUS$36/54; Rd,Bakau; lodge.com; SambaBreku a travellers’ favourite. welcoming management have turnedthisinto .com; Fajara; s/dinclbreakfast US$34/57; Leybato Midrange football matches onscreen. a local favourite thanks tocheap foodand mealsaroundD100; Serekunda; Youth Monument Bar&Restaurant Budget or anyof supermarkets. thesmallBakau to plenty of choice. go TobuygroceriesinBakau, calm stretch of beach. roomsstunninglylocatedhas acceptable ata .com; BadalaPark Way;stefromUS$190; neighbours, understated, thisispleasantly d US$30, with kitchen US$43) d US$30,withkitchen r inclbreakfast US$23toUS$34; St Mary’s Food&Wine St Mary’s Kairaba Hotel Kairaba Hotel Garden Safari Bakotu Hotel Fajara Guesthouse Roc Height’sLodge

( % 4497186; www.leybato.abc.gm; Fajara Beach; as

( % (

% ( % )

4465555; fax4465959;KotuBeach; Compared toitsresort ( 4462940; www.kairabahotel.com; 4462940; www.kairabahotel.com; %

4463377; info@coconutresidence

( ( (Cape Point) % % This cosy guesthouse Thiscosyguesthouse 4496122; fax4494365;Fajara; h ac pais 4495428; www.rocheights 4495887; www.gamspirit lunch &dinner) ) (Westfield Junction, (WestfieldJunction, , Bakau market, Bakau as Aleafycourt- as ) Atthis ) ac Pretty ) This is This 323

)

THE GAMBIA GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA barracuda. excellentgrilled bars alongthecoast,serving food tothesoundsof live salsa. andGambian goodCaribbean place serves Kololi;meals around US$5-10; bia Strip, and cheap beer. mixed menuwithafocusonEuropeanfood hasa popular pub-cum-restaurant inBakau meals aroundUS$5-US$9; h Sailor’s BeachBar &TopEnd Midrange reggae greatwith alight feel does grillfood. ern endof Kololibeach, thiscute roundhouse Kololi; mealsUS$4-8; garden. beer there’s nobetter placethanthisGerman-style of andasoliddose localgossip, beer draught 2am) of Mama themanager. dinnersdelicious buffet asfortherawcharm This vibrantplaceisasmuch renowned forits Fajara; dishesaroundUS$3.60; afra puréed) andotherAfricandishes. ormaniocwhichyams, plantain iscooked and of WestAfricamadewithfermented cassava, food), CFA50-150; 324 one of the bestin the whole of West Africa. For Indian food, this peaceful, pretty place is There’s occasional live music. qualitysnacksand Europeancuisine. serves around US$7; Sunday brunch (US$7)from 10am to4pm. perfection. totasty rounded off Don’tmiss to flavour-dripping three-course dinners –is roccan restaurant –fromtherich localjuices h Ave,gambia.com; 130Kairaba Fajara; dishesUS$6-10; h serves decent Gambianmealsandsnacks. serves Bakau; dishesfromUS$2; Bakau; Clay Oven Ali Baba’s Butcher’s Shop Peppers TropicalRestaurant Chapman’s Come Inn Restaurant Mama’s Eddie’s Bar&Restaurant King Safe WayAfra Solomon’s BeachBar Bar&Restaurant Atlantic 9am-midnight) 8am-11pm) 8am-2am) ForaheartyEuropeanmeal,good andotherGambiandishes. EEUD H TATCCAT • rnig SEREKUNDA &THEATLANTIC COAST ••Drinking fufu h

(a staple alongthesoutherncoast (astaple ( ( ( This tiny spot serves excellent Thistinyspotserves h % % % 5pm-midnight) Everything atthis stylishMo-

( % Thisisoneof thebestbeach 11am-2am) 4391464; Fajara; mealsUS$4-7; 4496600; Fajara; dishes US$7; 4461030; Senegambia Strip, Kololi; meals Strip, 4461030; Senegambia h

(

4495252; Atlantic Rd, Bakau Beach; 4495252; AtlanticRd,Bakau % ( 10am-midnight) % h h

4495069; www.thebutchersshop

(Mosque Rd, Serekunda; dishes (Mosque Rd,Serekunda; (cnr Atlantic Rd & Kairaba Ave,(cnr AtlanticRd&Kairaba ( 4464078; Kotu;mealsUS$5; lunch &dinner) % 11am-10pm Thu-Tue) Goodfor Famous AliBaba’s h

(

4460716; Palma Rd, Rima %

(Fajara; dishesUS$2.50; ( % 11am-10pm Tue-Sun) h 4494083; AtlanticRd, 4464792; Senegam- Atthenorth- 24hr) Thisplace afra afra Thistiny h h 7-11pm) This (grill 10am-

for qualityartworks andoriginalsouvenirs. the pizzascrisp. hereknows hisjob: thepasta isaldente and personalised clothes dyedandtailored.personalised the sky-high stacks of stacks the sky-high colourful goods, you about anything youcare toimagine. Toreach 5pm) midnight) Serekunda) Market, Serekunda Secka Centre LivingArt African SHOPPING weekends. disco heaven thatdrawsglittering crowdson isaraucouslocalaffair Serekunda Kololi onaThursday night. biggest dancehallDJ mixes atthisplacein hottest club. atmosphere. late) occasional jazzafternoons andconcerts. run byarenowned Gambianmusician,holds .com; Palma Rd,Kololi; Rima Teranga BeachClub ENTERTAINMENT house. beer proper, German-style ing hour. herecocktails taste pass- withevery sweeter 10pm Thu-Tue) up atnight. downandthemusic turnthelights taurants All themajor hotels have bars andmostres- DRINKING and therustlingof palmtrees. fusion-cuisine tothegentle flowof waterfalls and excellentSingaporean, ThaiandChinese around US$9; Rd, Fajara) Rd, Kololi;dishesUS$7-10; Salam Batik Serekunda market Serekunda &Restaurant Gallery Village Destiny Jokko Waaw Lama Jazziz Come Inn Weezo’s Chapman’s Yok Luigi’s ItalianRestaurant Luigi’s A colourful salsa placewithavibrant Acolourfulsalsa The African real deal,where you findjust %

( %

For quality contemporary paintings. (Westfield Junction) A fairy-tale place, A fairy-tale great torummage ( 982 0125; [email protected]; 982 0125;[email protected]; ( % % (offBadalaPark Way,Kololi) 4495131; African Living Arts Centre, Fajara; LivingArts 4495131; African meals h

(Atlantic Rd,Fajara; ( The best beer option. The bestbeer %

4462175; Palma Rd,Kololi Rima 4460668; Senegambia) ( (

% lunch &dinner) % (Amadou Jallow 4391464; Kairaba Ave;4391464; Kairaba 4495252; Atlantic Rd, Bakau; 4495252; AtlanticRd,Bakau; 4494747; AtlanticRd,Bakau)

(

% (cnr Sukuta & MosqueRds; (cnr Sukuta h h 9982669; abdulkabirr@hotmail ( 10am-2am) Thisopen-airplacein Theplacetoget your % lunch &dinner; Enjoygreat cocktails

( % % 4495131; Garba Jahumpa Jahumpa 4495131; Garba

( % h 4395103, Sheikh Tijan4395103, Sheikh 4460280; Palma Rima lonelyplanet.com TheGambia’s 4463646; 11am-3am) This vastplace, h Asparkling 10am-2am) i h Bakau’s Bakau’s h h h ) Luigi The 10pm- 11am- 10am- 6am- A about US$5,butdependonnegotiation. Atlantic Coastresort US$15.Yellow cost taxis isUS$10, andtoany Airport toSerekunda InternationalA green fromBanjul touristtaxi To/From theAirport AROUND GETTING Garage neartheShell inSerekunda. Station Gunjur (US$1,45minutes) tryalsotheTippa minutes). Forsoutherndestinationsincluding (US$2, fourhours) andSanyang(US$0.60,30 include Brikama(US$0.50,onehour),Soma stop)inSerekunda. Destinations (bus andtaxi tions inTheGambialeave fromthegarage formostdestina- andminibuses Bush taxis THERE&AWAY GETTING pure urbanGambianfun. and dodge theambulanttraders. Allpartof have toweave crowds,cars yourwaythrough lonelyplanet.com resorts. for a daytrip fromthe hecticAtlantic Coast The village of Tanji isa tranquilspot,perfect TANJI issignposted. The reserve (US$0.35). orSerekunda kama fromBanjul (around US$14)or aminibusheadedforBri- easily spotted fromwell-placed hides. species have recorded been here, andmanyare ticularly goodfor bird-watchers. Around 250 variety of vegetation andanimals.It’spar- butboastsanamazing tiniest wildlife reserves, .gm; admissionUS$1.10; Reserve Abuko Nature ABUKO NATURE RESERVE SEREKUNDA AROUND BANJUL& two tothree timestherate of yellowtaxis. parked aroundthelarger hotels usuallycharge US$50. Thegreen thatare ‘touristtaxis’ usually should costaroundUS$35to sorts andBanjul foradayaroundtheAtlanticre-Hiring ataxi Kololi andKotu–isusuallycharged atUS$1. ‘town trip’–anystretch Fajara, Bakau, between costUS$0.20.Youjusthailthem. Banjul Shared aroundtheAtlanticresorts taxis and Taxi To get here, take aprivate yellowtaxi You canhire forprivate yellowtaxis trips.A AROUNDBANJUL&SEREKUNDA••AbukoNature Reserve h ( % 8am-7pm) 7782633; www.darwingambia is oneof Africa’s fully developed ecolodges,fully developed fromthecompost the extensive vegetable garden. toilets, solarpower, andfreshwater poolto sites US$9,dUS$63) Lodge away fromthetouristzones.The Gunjur village, isperfect forafeel of ‘real life’ 4486026; rperpersoninclbreakfast US$14) catch andnets.The fishing centres, sothebeach isall entrance. Thisisoneof TheGambia’slargest holiday hypesubsidesand‘real life’ makes its tranquil fishingvillage of Gunjur, where the person US$9) Kobokoto Lodge ofwatering selection dishes. The fresh seafood ( bars, such astheexcellent for Gambians.It’sgotapretty beach, where yang isamuch-loved day-tripdestination Twenty kilometres southof Serekunda, San- SANYANG &GUNJUR lush tropicalforest andthebeach. a accommodation insimplehutsplacednear Lodge further southinTujering,therootsy birding excursions andmusiccourses. Alittle located amidmangroves andforest, andruns per personinclbreakfast US$24) Inn Lodge simple corner.struments, andanartisans’ There’s a of traditionalartefacts, includingmusicalin- US$3.50/1; Museum Village breeding area for terns. turtles andCaspian excellent range of birds. Itisalsoanimportant scrubthatattractsan dry woodlandandcoastal of Tanji village, is inanarea of lagoons,dunes, US$1.10, guidedwalksUS$7; ily, Haley’s relatives, supposed there’s little Roots, When Alex Haley, theAmerican author of ISLAND JUFUREH &JAMES RIVER LOWER GAMBIA ist destination. Apart fromthe Kinteh fam- village quicklyturned into afavourite tour- % Another 10kmalongthecoastlies the The mostattractive hotel isthe BirdReserve Tanji River About 2kmsouthof thevillage isthe 9827790; dishesUS$5-20)

( tracedhis originsto ( % % hostel h

7717481; www.bendula.com; s/dUS$18/24) hassimplebutattractive rooms. ( 7706830; www.natureswaygambia.com; camp % 9am-5pm)

(r perpersonUS$9) 8800209; www.paradiseinngarden.com;r

isoneof TheGambia’smost ( % ( % 9926618; [email protected]; adult/child African Lodge African 9984838; www.salla.se/kkl; rper , withexcellentdisplays h tempt withamouth- , which isstunningly 8am-6pm) ( % andrestaurant. Rainbow BeachBar Rainbow Jufureh 9919219; admission , intheheartof

( % , 3kmnorth Footsteps Eco Footsteps , thetiny 4486143; fax pirogues Paradise Bendula Tanji 325 has

,

THE GAMBIA GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA equipped withariver-edge veranda andTV. from smallbungalowsto‘luxury’rooms, fully travellers’ scene. Accommodation ranges bathroom US$8.75/8,luxuryrUS$10) ( with more than300speciesrecorded. phins andcrocodiles.Birdsare alsoplentiful, speciesinclude hyenas,dol- sighted Rarely warthogs, marsh andbushbucks. mongooses ing bushbabies, baboons,colobusmonkeys, to anextraordinaryvarietyof species,includ- The Gambia’slargest nationalpark,are home inDumbuntu) sion US$1.10,payableattheparkheadquarters woodland andgrasslandof The mangrove creeks andmudflats,dry KIANG WESTNATIONAL PARK around US$65. (onehour,US$1).Aprivate costs Bintang taxi a in theriver; youcanleapfromyourbalconyinto made entirely fromlocalmaterials sitonstilts www.bintang-bolong.com; rperpersonUS$14; and ecofriendly the shores of River theBintang istheintimate Tucked awayamongthemazeof shrubslining BINTANG BOLONG p321 fortouringagencies. (US$2),ortake anorganised tour;see taxi ferry dodge toBarra, the toutsandfindabush person, callinadvance). try therenowned (US$5per Africanbuffet ( ourful bungalowsof the inthecol- fort isworthdoing.Youcanstay with itscrumblingfoundationsof itsslave a though to see, 326 banks, butthere islittlein terms of infra- It has ferryfrom Banjul. linksto bothriver- in theGambia River, about 300km upstream Island, a 10km-longand 2.5km-wide island situated onthenorthern edge of MacCarthy for daytripsinto thesurroundingarea. Itis centre, andafineplaceto relax orventure crumbling former colonialadministrative Georgetown (Jangjang-bureh) isasleepy, GEORGETOWN RIVER UPPER GAMBIA % % pirogue Most people stay atnearby Most peoplestay Twice aday,there’s abusfromBrikamato To get toJufureh take anearly fromBanjul, 9905322; [email protected];s/dUS$18/35) 4541024; [email protected];bungalowswith/without PE ABARVR • ereon UPPER GAMBIARIVER••Georgetown for a boat tour Bintang pirogue

Bolong Lodge (per hrUS$30) Kunta Kinte Roots Camp Kunta Kinte tripto , aclassiconthe Kiang West Kiang Tendaba Camp James Island .

( s % ) 4488035;

. Huts (admis- and ,

(admission D30) the town of are Kuntaur the About 25kmnorthwest of Georgetown near WASSU STONE CIRCLES US$10 forafour-hour trip). andhirecan gotoKuntaur a hotels (aroundUS$125per Boat tripscanbe arranged byallGeorgetown enough. but touringthem byboatispleasant tors are notallowedto landontheislands, chimpanzees tolive inthe wildagain.Visi- protection project thathelpsonce-captured in theGambiaRiver. It’shometoaprimate five Island)consistsoff as Baboon islands River GambiaNationalPark (alsoknown NATIONALRIVER GAMBIA PARK when entering thetaxi. gers atthesouthernferry ramp;request this passen- Sutodropoff Santa Soma andBasse themainroadbetween turnoff bush taxis southern ornorthernbankof theriver. Most US$0.20/1.80)fromeither the (passenger/car MacCarthy Islandcanbereached byferry &Away There Getting dinner) ( tels, thecharming though tents. Bird-watching tripsare recommended. accommodation isinbungalowsorluxury half-board perpersonUS$35; luxury of agenerator. andthe rooms,friendlystaff maintained St; s/dUS$11/14) ( bird Camp den. Youreach theplacebyboatfromDream- bungalows withoillampsinamazelike gar- on thenorthbank,thisrusticplacehasbasic .gambiariver.com; rperpersonUS$7) Camp Jangjang-bureh Sleeping &Eating of variousforest parks. to visit,mainlyforitstours alongtheecotrails battles againstdeforestation, isagreat place spot forbirdsandhistory. withaweak those plenty toplease is, however, structure There –nobanksandhospital. Project % Bird Safari Camp Bird Safari Baobolong Camp In town,the There are few placestoeatoutsidetheho- 9921100; Findlay St;mealsfromUS$1.50; isworthavisit.

(CRDFP; Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com , which archaeologists are believe % Thisleafycampfeatures well- % /fax 5676182). Central River Division Forestry Division Forestry River Central 5676198; www.crdfp.org)

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% ( % s 5676108; www.bsc.gm; rwith 5676133; fax5676120;Owens /fax 5676182,9920618;www ) In a secluded spot, Inasecluded Talamanca Restaurant Beautifully located Beautifully Wassu StoneCircles pirogue pirogue h ), oryou (around , which lunch &

The restaurant gets goodreviews. of itsformermanager (histeenage sonhas balcony withviewacrossthemarket. shared toilets.Theonlyplus:the1st-floor above shop,hasdingyroomswith atailor andthere’sin Basse, aninternet café. Charteredand Standard have Bank branches the liveliest TrustBank upcountry settlement. Suis Santa haunted byneglect,Basse Though The Gambia’smosteasterly townof anysize. is Su,commonlycalledBasse, Santa Basse BASSE SANTA SU the stonecircles). (US$140 forthetourtonationalparkand formation andcanarrange excursions here 1mand2.5minheight. tween tonnesandisbe- stoneweighs several Each burial sites constructed about1200years ago. lonelyplanet.com hotels. Upcountry, youroptions are normally dation ranges from simplehostels tofive-star Kotu Strand andKololithe choice of accommo- At theAtlantic Coastresorts of Fajara, Bakau, ACCOMMODATION DIRECTORY THE GAMBIA much, much longer. fare isUS$55 andthetriptakes 24hours, or innorthern Guinea. The depending) toLabé more goes geot orlessdaily(passengers taxi (see Senegal p329 ). Even furtherafield,aPeu- connections toTambacounda viaVélingarain (40 minutes). Fromthere, youcanget frequent costsUS$1 toVélingara inSenegal bush taxi hour) andSoma(US$5.30,fourhours). A andGeorgetown (US$2,one Basse between There are andbushtaxis dailyminibuses &Away There Getting for unexpected visitors (US$9). café andcanalsodustof acoupleof rooms locally madeclothandcrafts,hasa river-view [email protected]; bungalows. tion incomfortable of theGambiaRiver, which hasaccommoda- ( now taken over), the US$10/20) % The The best place to stay andeatis The bestplacetostay Though slightly run-downsincethedeath slightly Though The hotels inGeorgetown have more in- The culturalcentre 5668743; rperpersonUS$11) Basse Guesthouse is one of the cleaner Basse options. isoneof thecleanerBasse THE GAMBIA DIRECTORY ••Accommodation THEGAMBIADIRECTORY Jem Hotel Jem Traditions

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verbal butit’sallhotair. abuse, respondguys completely. Theymight with nirs It’sbesttoignore todrugsandsex. these hotels andoffer touristsanythingfromsouve- boys (knownas‘bumsters’) whowaitoutside reported of assault. instances sexual ful atthebeaches, where somereaders have well. Womeninparticularshouldbecare- dark, particularlyinareas youdon’tknow the coast.Avoid walkingaroundaloneafter particularly aroundthetouristcentres near However, andpettytheftdooccur, muggings crimeisstillfairlyrare inTheGambia.Serious DANGERS &ANNOYANCES and dinnerfrom6pmonwards. lunch fromaround 11amto2.30pm to serve tendnoon FridayandSaturday.Restaurants to 5.30pmMondayThursday and8amto usually open8.30amtonoonand2.30pm shopsandbusinesses 12.30pm Friday.Banks, 3pm or4pmMondaytoThursday, and8amto Government are offices openfrom8amto HOURS BUSINESS and watching tours aroundthenationalparks the coast.Upcountry,it’sallaboutbird- water sportsandfishingare populararound Beach-related activities,such asswimming, ACTIVITIES the exceptionof afew luxurylodges. andhotels,limited with tobasicguesthouses Many visitors complainaboutthebeach

   PRACTICALITIES  

The Gambiauses themetric system. The supplyinThe electricity Gambia is pirogue focus onpoliticaland economicnews. long-standing, respected weeklywitha West Africa run downofrecent politicalevents. andaconcise stories, accessiblereports Focus onAfrica andtourism. ness, sport political andeconomicnews,plusbusi- Africa Today square pins,as usedinBritain. as thosein continentalEurope, orthree 220V. Plugs eitherhave tworoundpins, excursions. (West Africa Publishing) isa (Afro Media)hasgood (BBC) hasexcellentnews (BBC)

327 THE GAMBIA GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA St, Banjul) Rd, Bakau) deBandim. ofMercado sau) Located1kmnorthwest of travellers comingfromaninfected area. A yellow-fever vaccinationcertificate isrequired VACCINATION CERTIFICATES village inmusic. local dancetroupesandbandsdrown the pointistheweekend inJufureh,high where andlectures.Diaspora artists,seminars The ing Festival Held June,theone-week every FESTIVALS &EVENTS US UK Sierra Leone Senegal Mauritania Guinea-Bissau Guinea Gambia inThe Embassies &Consulates USA UK Sierra Leone Senegal Nigeria Guinea-Bissau Germany France Gambia The Embassies &Consulates EMBASSIES &CONSULATES 328 hour. Upcountry, access isharder tofind. in all of the resorts. are Rates around US$1per There are plenty of and internet cafésinBanjul ACCESS INTERNET 15 August 1 May 18 February 1 January inTheGambia: public holidaysobserved Africa Directory chapter ( p1106 are), these the As wellasthereligious holidayslisted inthe HOLIDAYS 1000, 115515thStNW,Washington,DC,20005) Maisonettes, Fajara.Maisonettes, 103,Berlin) Kurfurstendamm Wuse, Abuja) W8 5DH) Paris) dard St,Banjul) (Map (Map pp322-3 ; (Map (Map pp322-3 ; ( ( % % H ABADRCOY • mase oslts ••Embassies&Consulates THE GAMBIADIRECTORY Workers’ Day Workers’ ( (Map (Map p319 ; ( 020-7937 6316; 57 Kensington Court, London Court, 020-7937 6316;57Kensington % (Map (Map pp322-3 ; ( % 0202-785 1399;[email protected]; Suite ( % NewYear’s Day % Assumption features concertsbyGambianand (Map (Map pp322-3 ; 01 42940930;117RueSaint-Lazare, 75008 IndependenceDay 09-523 8545; Plot 25, Ontario Crescent, 5085 09-523 8545;Plot25,Ontario (Map (Map p319 ; ( 821 4476; 11 Rue de Thiong, Dakar) 821 4476;11RuedeThiong,Dakar) % 030-892 3121;fax0308911401; (Map (Map pp322-3 ; ( % % % 225191; 6 Wilberforce St,Freetown) 225191; 6Wilberforce % 0203928; Av de14Novembro,Bis- 4392856; Kairaba Ave,4392856; Kairaba Fajara) 4495133; 48AtlanticRd,Fajara) 4226862; 78ADanielGoddard % % % 4373752) Off Kairaba Ave. Kairaba 4373752) Off 4228206; 67DanielGod- % 4461086) OppositeTafbel 4494854; Atlantic Roots Homecom- Immigration Office photos. three two days foraboutUS$45; you’llneed valid foronemonth andare issuedintwoto are one,visas needing normally days. Forthose or Scandinavian of countriesforstays upto90 Community of (Ecowas) WestAfricanStates Luxembourg, the Netherlands, theEconomic Italy, Germany, wealth countries, Belgium, areVisas by nationals of notneeded Common- VISAS wantingto travelfor those responsibly. in tourism,andagreat source of information organisation, tryingtohelpsmallbusinesses ism The INFORMATION TOURIST area codesinTheGambia. telecentres offering better rates. There are no times (7amto6pm).There are manyprivate cost aboutUS$7.50forthree minutes atpeak day. Thelinesare good,andcallstoEurope where youcandialdirect overseas 24hours a andmostupcountrytowns, Serekunda Bakau, tel, which andkiosksinBanjul, hasoffices The telephone system ishandledbyGam- TELEPHONE ties are rare. heading upcountry,where exchange facili- usually D2000).It’sbesttochange before cards(thewithdrawallimitis accept Visa bankswithATMsyou canfindseveral that dalasi, CFA francsare widelyaccepted. trouble withthepolice. risk getting alsoget rippedoff, butmight into moneychangers meansthatyoudon’tonly governmentA serious crackdownonillegal rate. Avoid changing ontheblackmarket. change bureaus. Bothoffer aboutthesame Gambia. outsideThe export, butthemoney’suseless matic thanintheearlynoughties. it’sat8%lessdra- inflation continues,though suffered adramaticdecreaseinvalue,and The localcurrency dalasi(D)hasforyears MONEY Banjul; Visa extensionsVisa are withswiftlyat the dealt andhaveIf you’ve no comeinfromSenegal In Banjul and around the coastal resorts andaroundthecoastal In Banjul It’s besttochange money atbanksorex- There are norestrictions onitsimportor

(ASSET; www.asset-gambia.com) (ASSET; Association of Small Scale Enterprises inTour- of SmallScaleEnterprises Association h 8am-4pm) in Banjul. They costUS$9. inBanjul.

Mp p319; (Map % isanumbrella lonelyplanet.com 4228611; OAU Blvd, www.air-senegal-international.com; EcowasAve) in 24hours. tre The biodiversity research andeducationcen- VOLUNTEERING Senegal Mauritania Senegal. visas, theclosestembassyisinDakar, Mali Guinea-Bissau Guinea information. therelevant embassytact ( opposite ) formore two photostoapplyforanonwardvisa.Con- Youusuallyneed and 2pmto4pmweekdays. Most embassies are openfrom9amto1pm forOnwardTravel Visas lonelyplanet.com between Barra and the border atKarang Barra between runregularly and bushMinibuses taxis Land SN BrusselsAirlines Air SénégalInternational areflights notreliable. panies don’thave and goodsafety standards, com- West CoastAirways. Note thatthese SlokAirand include AirGuinée,Bellview, one way). (US$150 andBanjul Dakar(Senegal) between www.gambia.co.uk). British-based holiday operatoristhe Theleading flights. Europe. Mostpeopleget here oncheap charter airline TheGambia and that fliesbetween Airlinesistheonlyscheduled SN Brussels Air THERE&AWAY GETTING GAMBIA INTHE TRANSPORT with accommodation. takes on volunteers andcanprovide them gambia.gm) US$40 thesamedayifyoucomeinmorning. www.flysn.com; BadalaPark Way,Kololi) cost US$14. takes afew hours. takes visasare US$12; theprocess for US$10,andtwo-month Other regional airlines serving TheGambia Other regional airlinesserving Air SénégalInternational hasregular flights Useful airline officesinclude: Makasutu WildlifeTrust Makasutu The consulate here does not issue tourist visas. Theconsulatehere For doesnotissuetourist Three-month, single-entry visasare issuedfor single-entry Three-month, One-month visas take 24hourstoissueand visastake One-month , based atAbuko, based Nature Reserve, One-month visasare issuedfor about US$7 One-month One-month, single-entry visasare issued single-entry One-month, Gambia Experience Gambia TRANSPORT IN THE GAMBIA •• Getting There &Away INTHEGAMBIA••Getting TRANSPORT (Map (Map pp322-3 ; (Map (Map p319 ;

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( % % 4496301/2; 0845 3304567; 4472095; Station) Slightlymore expensive. minibuses and bush taxis leave andbushtaxis minibuses frequently good reviews foryears.good reviews Kololi)Hashadconsistently Hotel,Senegambia, Kairaba Not adream journeyeither,butmarginally get avehicle alongthenorthbank. thatgoes and unpredictable delays.Ifpossible,try to rible condition,so prepare ride forarough of theGambiaRiver. Thisroadisinater- go alongtheroadfollowingsouth bank upcountry andbushtaxis Most minibuses Local Transport Hertz AB Rent-a-Car Reliable carhire companiesinclude: &Motorcycle Car US$1000). triparound US$800,14-daytrip (seven-day you allthewayfromcoastupcountry including ‘Discover theRiver’ tripsthattake ofalso hasanexcellentset boatexcursions, Gambia alongtheriver. cruise a week-long or large Oneof boat. theiroffers includes Trips are eitherdonebymotorised Lodge and all thewayuptoGeorgetown. from DentonBridge toLamin nearBanjul .gambiariver.com) Experience River Gambia Boat AROUND GETTING hours). gotoTambacoundabush taxis forUS$3(three (US$2, 45minutes, 27km),andfromthere SutoVélingara Santa runfromBasse taxis fromBrikamatoZiguinchor.goes change vehicles attheborder. Transportalso to Ziguinchor isaboutUS$8andyouhave to garage.from Serekunda Thefive-hour trip normally waiting. (US$7toUS$10,sixhours) areminibuses (US$2), where Dakar-bound and bushtaxis condition. US$140 toUS$180. Make sure it’s inagood should costaround toBasse from Serekunda US$5.30 (four tosixhours). A private taxi takes nineto12hours. is Serekunda–Soma costsUS$11,the360kmtrip Serekunda–Basse you usuallyhave tochange vehicles at Soma. Ifyougo to Georgetown or Basse, less rough. If you’re headingforsouthernSenegal, At thefar-eastern tipof TheGambia,bush ( %

( % 4390041; [email protected]; Boketh Total Boketh 4390041; [email protected]; in UK01527-576239;www.hiddengambia.com) ( % , off Kairaba, off Ave, trips does 4460926; [email protected];

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