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India - Assam, Darjeeling & Bhutan India - Assam, Darjeeling & Bhutan Naturetrek Tour Report 1 – 18 November 2015 Kaziranga by Gil Langfield Wildlife watching by Marilyn Bond Mountain Scenes by Marilyn Bond Scene by Marilyn Bond Report compiled by Sujan Chatterjee Images courtesy of Gil Langfield & Marilyn Bond Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk India - Assam, Darjeeling & Bhutan Tour Report Tour Participants: Sujan Chatterjee (leader) and twelve Naturetrek clients Day 1 Sunday 1st November The tour started with a flight from the UK to India via Dubai Day 2 Monday 2nd November The overnight flight landed at Kolkata airport, India and group members transferred to a hotel in Kolkata. Day 3 Tuesday 3rd November Today the group flew from Kolkata to Paro. It was a smooth flight and a special treat was the view of the beautiful Kanchenjungha massif; the elegant peak standing with her head high over the clouds. We landed at a slightly overcast Paro where we met our Bhutanese cultural guide, Jatsho. After dropping off our bags, we headed out for some birdwatching. We stopped along the Paro Chu (river) where we saw Hodgson’s Redstart, and Plumbeous and White-capped Water Redstarts. We also spotted a lone Brown Dipper in the distance. As we were looking for more birds, two Ibisbills flew in and landed not too far away on the shingle beds. The pair gave us great views before moving on. We then went for lunch, and afterwards visited Paro Dzong where we had close views of the redstarts and one more Brown Dipper. Several Red-billed Choughs were roosting in the monastery and gave us great views. We then drove to a spot from where we had great views of the Tiger Nest Monastery, precariously hanging from the mountain face. Here we had a short walk into a side lane and spotted some good birds including a flock of Gold- billed Magpie with long outlandish tails, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Rufous Sibia, Kestrel, Himalayan Buzzard and Oriental Turtle Dove. As the light started to fade we called it a day and returned to Kichu Resort for a well earned rest. Day 4 Wednesday 4th November Today we had an early start and headed to the Chele La pass. This is the highest motorable road in Bhutan and we drove for nearly two hours before stopping short of the top. We waited for the light and slowly birds started stir. We saw White-collared Blackbird and had a walk to look for Blood Pheasants. Although not seen, we did hear them. We also spotted Collared Grosbeak, and Blue-fronted Redstarts which came in to feed from bushes close to us. We continued on and spotted a pair of magnificent Himalayan Monals which gave us superb views. Moving on, we spotted flocks of Grey-crested, Coal and Rufous-vented Tits. While having breakfast on the roadside we spotted a large flock of Plain Mountain Finch and Snow Pigeon. We then drove to the pass at 3,889 metres. The sky was clear but it was very windy. We continued on, driving down a bit towards Ha where we spotted a male Blood Pheasant up a tree. He gave us great views for long time. As we drove further down towards Ha we also spotted a Wallcreeper which gave us great views before he flew away. We stopped at Ha village for lunch and then headed back up the pass and returned to Paro at sundown. © Naturetrek January 16 1 India - Assam, Darjeeling & Bhutan Tour Report Day 5 Thursday 5th November We left Paro at 5am and headed for Dochula and Punakha. As we reached Thimpu it was already light and we spotted a Himalayan Buzzard perched in a dead tree. We stopped to look at it and also spotted a pair of Crested Kingfisher perched on a distant fence. We saw them through our telescopes, and then scanning around we found a pair of Ibisbill feeding in the Thimpu Chu. We also heard Black-tailed Crake. We then drove to Dochula and had a cooked breakfast and some great coffee. After breakfast we headed to the Royal Botanical Park. Before reaching the park we stopped for a large flock of White-throated Laughingthrushes and a Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher. At the park we met a ranger friend of Sujan who accompanied us on a walking trail to look for birds. The weather became gloomy and fog rolled in, but we still managed to see Red- billed Leiothrix, Hoary-throated Barwing and Yuhina. At the end of the trail, as we stopped to see Chestnut- tailed Minla, we heard the distant call of the rare and very elusive Ward’s Trogon. We called to the bird and a magnificent female trogon came into view through the fog and we all had great views. Next we headed to Punakha, en route stopping at Semtoka for lunch. In the afternoon we went to the Pho Chu to search for the very rare and endangered White-bellied Heron. We found a pair without any difficulty, fishing in the fast flowing waters. We also added Grey Treepie and Ruddy Shelduck to our bird list. Day 6 Friday 6th November Today we started at 5.30am with a drive towards Jigme Dorji National Park. As it started to get light we spotted a Tawny Fish Owl sitting on a roadside dead tree. What a great start! We stopped further on and found a pair of Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babblers. They gave us the most wonderful views and it was a struggle to get everyone back on the bus. Next we had a quick view of Spotted Forktail. We continued for a while before stopping for breakfast; and the bird magic started. We started by spotting a Red-headed Trogon. We then located a cherry blossom tree in full bloom and this kept us occupied for a long time as Fulvettas, Yuhinas, tits, shrike babblers and sunbirds converged on the tree at one time. Next we saw Grey-chinned and Short-billed Minivets, Yellownapes and White-winged Grosbeaks. We also spotted Assam Macaques foraging on a tree. The whole morning was filled with amazing birding. We then returned to Punakha for lunch, setting up our picnic at the most amazing location, overlooking the Dzong in the background and with Crested Kingfishers as our neighbours. After lunch it was time for some culture and Jatsho took us to visit the Dzong. After an hour we all came out enlightened. We then drove to the other side of the river and took a stroll too close to the King’s farm. We were promptly shooed off by the King’s Bermuda-clad security guard, but not before seeing Oriental White-eye. Day 7 Saturday 7th November Today was market day and locals were pouring in from all over to the market place. We had some time before we needed to leave so we visited the bustling and colorful market. 2 © Naturetrek India - Assam, Darjeeling & Bhutan Tour Report After visiting the market we set off. During our journey we stopped at a couple of places and additions to our bird listed included Darjeeling Woodpecker, Yellow-breasted Greenfinch, Black Bulbul and Speckled Piculet. Due to a road-widening project the going was slow. We stopped at Nobding for a cup of tea before finally arriving at the Phojika Valley. We counted about 23 rare and beautiful Black-necked Cranes on the valley floor before we checked into the fantastic Dewachen Hotel. After a great lunch we walked down to the valley floor and had great views of a male Hen Harrier which was scouring the valley marsh. We also spotted dozens of Oriental Skylarks feeding on roadside grassy fields. We then drove to a tea shop to watch the cranes, from relative comfort as it was getting a bit chilly outside. Day 8 Sunday 8th November Today we had an early morning walk to the valley where a great sunrise greeted us. As the sun hit the mountain tops a few distant cranes started to call and fly around. Oriental Skylarks were twittering and feeding close to us. After breakfast we left for Pele La. We had a walk down the old road and spotted a pair of Moupin’s Pika and a Muntjac Deer. Also a flock of White-browed Fulvetta and Dark-breasted Rosefinch fed close to us. After lunch at Lobesa, we stopped for tea at Dochula and spotted Eurasian Jay and Speckled Wood Pigeon. On the way down before dark we spotted a bevy of 8 Kalij Pheasants, and then we arrived at Thimpu after sundown. Day 9 Monday 9th November We started today with a quick visit to the sewer treatment area where we spotted Ibisbill, Brown Dipper, sandpipers and River Lapwing. After breakfast we checked out and set off to our next location. We started by trying to drive round the city but due to the 4th King’s impending 60th birthday, most of the city was shut down. We eventually managed to leave Thimpu and headed towards Phuntsholing, a border town with India. The journey took us through some stunning mountain scenery and along twisty roads. Except for being delayed for 45 minutes by an overturned lorry, the journey was uneventful. Day 10 Tuesday 10th November After breakfast we said goodbye to Jatsho and Sonam for making our stay in Bhutan so pleasurable, and headed for India. We had four vehicles waiting for us and after clearing immigration we drove through Jaigaon town and on to the highway.
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