“I am not afraid of storms for I am learning to sail my ship.”

—Louisa May Alcott ContentsIssue #264 September/October 2020 14 Features Ocean Voyaging 20 A cultural and visual spectacle Sailing a multihull through western Cuba by Peter Andre Arguimbau Special Section 4 27 Planning, communication and flexibility How to get the most from Departments your weather router by Ken McKinley Chartroom Chatter 4 The Ocean Race postpones next start 32 The eye of the 5 Winds of change butterfly 6 Coping with COVID The difference between the tropical 7 Container incident off Hawaii cyclone and mid-latitude cyclone 27 7 Beneteau closing South Carolina plant by Jim Austin 8 Patrick Childress 17 8 Brion Toss 38 Resetting the clock in Marine Tech Notes Gibraltar and Morocco 9 Radar advances Refuges for dealing with Schengen Area by Tim Queeney requirements Power Voyaging by Laurie Thyrre 11 Good maintenance stops bad fuel by Wayne Canning 8 20 Short Tacks 14 10 tools cruising sailors bring to the stay-at-home table 17  The rebuilding of Golden Rule, the first protest boat Voyaging Tips 35  Securing for sea 38 by Dick Stevenson On the cover: Linda Boynton returning to Mahina Tiare’s cockpit after tucking a third reef in the main en route from Auckland to Tahiti in the Navigation Roaring Forties. Mahina.com photo. 41  Celestial navigation series, part 14 Nav Problem For more on voyaging, follow us on: 48 What’s a son to do? www.facebook.com/oceannavigator by David Berson www.twitter.com/oceannavmag www.oceannavigator.com contributors Ocean avigator NMarine navigation­ and ocean voyaging

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Sue Muller Hacking (Short Tacks, “10 tools cruising sailors bring EDITORIAL to the stay-at-home table,” page 14) first experienced sailing [email protected] Editor Tim Queeney at 13 on a charter from to . She 207-749-5922 and husband Jon crewed on a Roberts 53 from Cape Copy Editor Kate Murray Town to the , then bought a 40-foot Piver tri- Art Director Kim Goulet Norton contributing editors Scott Bannerot maran and cruised. After 12 years ashore in Redmond, Twain Braden Wash., they bought a Wauquiez Kronos 45. In the past Nigel Calder Ellen Massey Leonard 10 years, they’ve done a two-year refit in Phuket, cir- Eric Forsyth cumnavigated Borneo and Indonesia three times, and Jeff & Raine Williams voyaged to the Solomons and Papua New Guinea. They David Berson Ken McKinley were in the Philippines in the spring of 2020 when the Wayne Canning lockdown halted them in El Nido, Palawan. ADVERTISING/MARKETING

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P. Andre Arguimbau (Ocean Voyaging, “A cultural and West Coast US & , visual spectacle,” page 20) is an executive recruiter with international Susan W. Hadlock ZRG Partners in New York City, and is an owner 207-838-0401 east coast US & Canada, of Mariner Gallery in Newport, R.I., and Noreast international Charlie Humphries Hardwood in Greenwich, Conn. He serves on the 207-939-1929 publisher/ New York Yacht Club’s Seamanship Committee advertising director Alex Agnew and the Junior Committee of the Hispanic Society 207-450-5363

Museum & Library. Andre is a master captain, CIRCULATION/EVENTS former emergency medical technician, and he Events & marketing enjoys sailing, racket sports and motorcycle tour- coordinator Lee Auchincloss ing the National Parks. Andre is a graduate of the Loomis Chaffee School and College of Charleston. BUSINESS

BUSINESS OFFICE Lee Auchincloss Laurie Faragher Thyrre “Resetting the clock in Gibraltar ( MAIN OFFICE and Morocco,” page 38) and her husband, Alec, have PHONE 1-207-822-4350 been traveling in Europe aboard their 64-foot ISSN 0886-0149 Ocean Navigator is published in January, March, May, July, September and Nordhavn, Gratitude, ever since they left from November, with an annual special issue of Ocean Voyager in April, for $27.95 per year by Navigator Publishing LLC, 30 Danforth St., Portland, ME 04101. Peri- their home port of Stuart, Fla., in 2019. Having odicals postage paid at Portland, Maine, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Please send address changes to Ocean Navigator, P.O. Box spent much of their 20 years together boating part 461468, Escondido, CA 92046. Copyright © 2020 by Navigator Publishing LLC. All rights reserved. No part time, both traded in their airline pilot jobs to be of this publication may be reprinted in any way without written permission from the publisher. full-time live-aboard parents and teachers to their Subscription rate is $27.95 for one year (eight issues) in the United States and its possessions. Canadian subscription rate is $31.95 U.S. funds. Other foreign surface is $33.95 U.S. funds. Overseas air mail is $62.95 U.S. funds 9-year-old son, Jack. Laurie also writes for their per year. Distribution: Newsstand distribution, domestically and internationally: Coast blog, www.cruisingwithgratitude.com. to Coast Newsstand Services LTD., 5230 Finch Ave. East, Suite 1, Toronto, ON M1S 4Z9. Phone (416) 754-3900; fax (416) 754-4900. Contributions: We solicit manuscripts, drawings and photographs. Please address all material to Editor, Ocean Navigator, P.O. Box 569, Portland, ME 04112-0569. Unfortunately, we cannot guarantee the safe handling of con- tributed materials. All other departments, 207-772-2466. Printed in the United States by the Lane Press

2 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com NMEA Best Ad 2015_ONavigator_Layout 1 7/17/15 4:05 PM Page 1 Only the best will do for your boat

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Courtesy The Ocean Race The Ocean Race postpones next start The Ocean Race, a crewed Town, Shenzen, Auckland, commented: “Given the race around the world that Itajai, Newport, Aarhus and current environment, it has held two other names The Hague. makes a lot of sense to and sponsors since its incep- “Since 1973, The postpone the race. An extra tion (Whitbread Round the Ocean Race has been one year will provide additional << A leg start during the World Race, Volvo Ocean of the toughest challenges time for health and safety previous running of Race), has announced that in sport,” race chairman conditions to improve. The Ocean Race in the 14th running of the Richard Brisius wrote in The added time should 2017-2018 when it was race originally scheduled to a press release. “Winning also allow race organizers known as the Volvo start in October 2021 will teams have showcased that to work closely with the Ocean Race. be pushed back one year to proper preparation is the IMOCA class on the for- October 2022. foundation for success. mat to achieve the best pos- The competition, sailed We now find ourselves in sible race and maximize the aboard VO65 and IMOCA unprecedented times, and entries. Our goals haven’t 60 classes, will still start in our first priority is with all changed; we’re aiming to Alicante, Spain, and end those who have been and be at the start for the next in Genoa, Italy, but will continue to be affected by edition of The Ocean Race conclude in the summer of the pandemic.” with the strongest possible 2023. The route will stay Charlie Enright, skipper team, proving to the world unchanged and will include of the Newport, R.I.-based that sustainability is not a stops in Cabo Verde, Cape 11th Hour Racing Team compromise.”

4 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com Winds of change

As our world stumbles through this painful and unprecedented time, with businesses and schools closed, boat shows canceled and so many of us com- pelled to shelter in place, it’s frustrating to think that even our boats can only provide limited respite from Courtesy AirNow << the draconian restrictions health hazard responsible in power plant production An unexpected side benefit of the pandemic. For the for 7 million deaths annu- and fewer airline flights, of the spring shutdown due foreseeable future, there’s ally, with 300,000 of those and you have a lot of fossil to the COVID-19 pandemic: hardly an island or nation deaths in the Americas. The fuel not being burned. clean skies nationwide. in the world that will wel- root cause is that nine out Since its 2004 launch, come foreign recreational of 10 people worldwide NASA’s Aura satellite (its lic Health studied 3,000 boaters without a lengthy breathe polluted air. Even name stemming from the U.S. counties and con- quarantine — if at all. I way out on Lake Erie we Latin word for “air”) has cluded that a small increase know this is the appropriate were not insulated from its been used by the agency’s in long-term exposure to action, but still. effects: When sailing into researchers to track ozone, particulate air pollution Maybe you’ve noticed, Cleveland, we used to aim aerosols and key gases in the leads to an increase in risk however, an unintended for the big hazy smudge atmosphere. In May 2020, of dying of COVID-19. consequence of the pan- on the horizon; sometimes they reported a 30 percent Of course, this salubri- demic — a silver lining. it would rain and, voila! reduction in nitrogen diox- ous benefit of the pandemic Though the shutdown has There it was. ide — a main contributor will vanish when the world crippled the economy, it Depending on where to smog — in major metro gets back to “normal.” But has brought a windfall to you live, in the late spring areas. And, a recent viewing still, it’s nice breathing the the atmosphere, and we are there was a sharp decrease of the AirNow.gov interac- same kind of air our great- now experiencing some of in passenger road traffic tive air quality map showed grandparents enjoyed in the the cleanest air and clearest of 40 to 50 percent, as the entire U.S. at a good or early 20th century, even if skies in a generation. reported by transportation moderate level of ozone and just for a while. It’s not happening analytics company INRIX, particulate matter. And when they finally because of summer rains, whose director of global There’s also evidence find that vaccine, I’ll be the although that sure helps. communications, Mark that the improved air qual- first one in line with my According to the World Burfeind, recently said that ity could help in the fight sleeve rolled up; I’ve got a Health Organization, “the commute has basically against the coronavirus. lot of islands to visit before before March of this year gone away.” Combine that Researchers at the Harvard I’m done. air pollution was a major with a significant reduction T.H. Chan School of Pub- Robert Beringer www.oceannavigator.com SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 5 ChChartroomatter

and the staff of Sail MV put together an online version of its annual sea- food buffet and auction, generating $105,000 of its goal of $200,000. “We couldn’t have our big party on the harbor like we do every year, so we went online and invited our loyal supporters to join together from the comfort of their own homes,” said Sail MV board president Peggy Schwier. Board member and

Courtesy Sail MV ESPN videographer John Wilson produced a video that included details of the sailing and rowing Coping with COVID programs offered by Sail Martha’s Vineyard. Sail

<< The COVID-19 pandemic the sea that surrounds MV youth sailors told Instead of hosting has forced sailing organiza- us.” Like most commu- their stories of accom- crews of young sail- tions around the country nity sailing initiatives, plishment and adventure ors, the Sail Martha’s to adapt to social distanc- Sail MV’s big programs on the water. Vineyard boathouse is ing guidelines and stay- involve sail training for Earlier this year, Sail being used for digital at-home policies. Here’s children and adults. With MV decided to suspend instruction. how two are dealing with the ongoing pandemic, regular youth and adult the problem. Sail MV has had to make summer sailing programs We recently received major adjustments. Back due to the ongoing feedback from one of in late April, Kettlewell coronavirus pandemic. our regular contributors, wrote in an email, “We However, during this dif- John Kettlewell, who is decided to cancel our reg- ficult time Sail MV opted also executive director of ular summer programs, to virtually conduct its Sail Martha’s Vineyard, and we’re now trying to Maritime Studies pro- “a nonprofit organization figure out how to fund- gram at the high school, dedicated to protecting raise enough to be back and began a virtual fund- and perpetuating our in 2021.” raising campaign called island’s maritime heri- Employing some cre- “Support Sail MV.” tage, culture, skills and ative thinking, Kettlewell This summer, instead

6 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com of large classes, Sail MV Kauai 22° N l Beneteau e n is offering one-on-one n Niihau a h Oahu C l closing South i e private sailing lessons for a n u n a a K h Molokai youth and adults. Par- C Honolulu i Carolina plant iw 21° a ticipants need to join Sail K Lanai l H Maui e n MV to sign up and pur- A Kahoolawe an French boatbuilder Groupe W Ch a A ah chase hourly lessons. Full ih Beneteau, which has built I nu information can be found I Ale 20° boats in the U.S. since Hilo at www.sailmv.org. PACIFIC Hawaii 1986, will close its OCEAN Marion, S.C., plant 19° in September and 160° W 159° 158° 157° 156° 155° shift production to its facilities in France. Container incident off Hawaii The move will report- edly affect 170 work- << In a case that is sure to add Shipping boxes fell over- ers. Yannick Madiot, to the lore of containers board while being barged chief operating officer that have been lost over- from Honolulu to Hilo. for Groupe Beneteau board becoming haz- Americas, was quoted Another sailing orga- ards to navigation, the The loss of the con- by the South Carolina nization that has had to National Transportation tainers set off what news website SCNow trim its sails is Sailing Safety Board is investi- Hawaii News Now called as saying, “It is a gru- Ships Maine, based in gating an incident that “a massive salvage proj- eling decision that Portland. Sailing Ships occurred off Hawaii’s Big ect.” was not made lightly. Maine focuses on sail Island on June 22. Nine of the containers Although difficult, this training for high school Twenty-one containers were located but 12 are is a necessary step in students. According to fell off a Young Broth- still unaccounted for. At transforming Groupe Erin Crotty, director of ers barge that was being least two of the contain- Beneteau for success in development for Sailing towed from Honolulu, ers were found floating. the post-COVID-19 Ships Maine, the group Oahu, to Hilo, Hawaii. One photo shows a sal- era.” cut back its trip size from Crewmembers discovered vage vessel with a towline According to one more than 20 students to the containers were miss- on one of these floating report posted to the just six. “They start with ing at 4:30 a.m. as the containers. The image Sailboat Owners two weeks of quarantine barge Ho’omaka Hou, is the classic case of the online forum, “the ashore before coming towed by the tug Hoku floating or partially sub- Oceanis 35.1, 38.1 aboard and doing two Loa, approached Hilo merged container that and 46.1 will be pro- weeks on board,” Crotty Harbor. At the time of forms the nighttime haz- duced in France next said. “Our standard pro- the incident, the weather ard in many a voyager’s year. Customer sup- gram for high schoolers was east winds at 12 mind. Hitting such an port, for parts and was five days and four mph, waves to 4 feet with object at night sailing at after sales, will still nights. This season, it’s a south swell at 3 feet, speed would likely result be managed from the four weeks.” and isolated showers. in hull damage. U.S.” www.oceannavigator.com SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 7 ChChartroomatter

was home renovation, but he also performed yacht deliveries and skippered boats for Offshore Pas- sage Opportunities, which takes sailors offshore to gain experience at sea. On one of these trips, Patrick had a sailor on board by the name of Rebecca Taft. Rebecca was an experienced sailor Brion Toss with dreams of a circum- Noted yacht rigger and

Rebecca Childress navigation. They later author Brion Toss died from married and decided to cancer on June 6, 2020. He voyage aboard Rebecca’s was 69. boat, Brick House, a Val- Brion operated his rig- iant 40. ging shop, Brion Toss Yacht Patrick Childress Patrick has written arti- Riggers, in Port Townsend, Sailor, circumnavigator, cles for a variety of sail- Wash., and was well known delivery captain, writer, ing magazines, including as a master rigger. Brion was video personality, hus- Ocean Navigator. He also also a gifted writer — Ocean band and frequent Ocean launched a highly instruc- Navigator published an << Patrick and Rebecca Navigator contributor tive video series aimed article of his in 2016 — and Childress. A natural Patrick Childress died at offshore sailors on his authored a renowned trea- sailor, Patrick cir- June 8, 2020, in Cape YouTube channel, which tise on rigging called The cumnavigated on a Town, South Africa, after currently has 40,000 sub- Complete Rigger’s Apprentice, Catalina 27 in 1979 at contracting the COVID- scribers. which graces the book- age 28. 19 disease. In May, Patrick and shelves of many a sailor. While growing up in Rebecca were in South Brion held many rigging Miami, Fla., Patrick was Africa and sailed to workshops, and was the bitten by the ocean voyag- Cape Town. When they first recipient of the Port ing bug early in life; his arrived, both were ill Townsend Wooden Boat dream of circumnavigat- and suspected they had Festival’s Maritime Hall of ing the globe began at contracted COVID-19. Fame award. Brion’s busi- age 14. Fourteen years Rebecca recovered, but ness partner, Ian Weedman later, in 1979, he did it on Patrick was hospitalized in (at right in image above), board a 27-foot Catalina the ICU at Cape Town’s said in an email that the named Juggernaut. After Groote Schuur Hospital, shop won’t be closing, “... returning to the U.S., where he later succumbed we are keeping the Brion Patrick’s main business to the illness. Toss rigging shop alive.” n

8 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com MARINE tech Notes

Radar advances BY Tim queeney

arine electronics com- Plots could be done on that plot radar contacts by using Mpanies continue to overlay using a grease pencil, a rapid radar plotting sheet. make impressive technical and the plot could be erased This is a technique we regu- strides in a variety of areas. as the situation changed so the larly taught students in Ocean One of these is radar. The new situation could be plotted. Navigator’s School of Seaman- marine radar units currently These commercial mariners ship seminars, both ashore available to voyagers have impressive capabilities — in particular, their collision avoidance options that make voyaging easier and safer. The recent World War II- era movie Greyhound starring Tom Hanks depicts the Battle of the Atlantic and has radar as a major element. We see the crew of Hanks’ destroyer using radar to detect enemy submarines. The radar of that era was good for detection and ranging, but in order to know anything about how a particular vessel was mov- Courtesy Furuno ing relative to your own, you drew their plots to calculate and on board schooners like needed to break out the grease the closest point of approach Westward and Ocean Star. In pencil and plotting board to (CPA) and time to closest this method, you use a radar’s The data manually draw in the bearings point of approach (TCPA). variable range marker (VRM) readout for and vectors. The filmmakers In busy shipping lanes with and electronic bearing line a contact on of Greyhound actually give us a many contacts on the screen, (EBL) to get information on Furuno’s NXT quick example of this process, this type of plotting could get a contact. You plot that range radar. These and we see a crewmember cal- intense. A former watch officer and bearing on your paper capable models culating a course to intercept who worked aboard the liner plotting sheet. Then, after six can track 100 by drawing grease pencil lines SS United States once told minutes has elapsed — making contacts. on a erasable plotting board. me that he used up an entire sure your vessel is on the same For commercial mariners grease pencil on a particularly heading as when you took the in the immediate post-WWII busy watch through the Eng- earlier measurements — you era, radar sets were developed lish Channel. get a second set of range and with special plotting screens Even without a plotting bearing info. After plotting that overlaid the radar display. overlay, it is still possible to these, you have an initial sense

www.oceannavigator.com SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 9 MARINE tech Notes

of the contact’s likely CPA and The NXT radars also have anoth- TCPA if both you and the contact er interesting capability that Kunz hold your courses. This technique alludes to above. Furuno calls it the works well, although with multiple “Target Analyzer” function. Since contacts it makes for a busy watch. the NXT radars are Doppler-based For commercial mariners using radars, Furuno makes use of the big ship radars, this process was Doppler shift of the returned echoes automated with the introduction of to calculate whether the contact is radars with an automatic radar plot- stationary, moving away from you ting aid (ARPA) capability. Early or heading toward you. With the ARPAs were add-on modules that Target Analyzer function turned on, could electronically track a contact stationary and receding contacts are and calculate the CPA and TCPA. displayed in green while approach- For a long time, this capability was ing contacts show as red. This reserved to big ship radars. Then, improves your situational awareness marine electronics companies intro- by giving you a quick visual idea of duced a greatly reduced ARPA capa- which radar contacts on your screen bility that could track one or two are the most important to keep an contacts. This was dubbed “mini- eye on in order to avoid a close- ARPA” (MARPA). quarters situation. Now, these firms have released Some voyagers might say that units that provide recreational mari- this type of capability in a radar or, ners with an expanded ARPA capa- indeed, even a radar unit itself is bility. The Furuno NXT radars, for not needed with today’s widespread example, have the ability to track up use of automatic identification to 100 contacts and provide users systems (AIS) and GPS-driven with info on their relative movement. electronic plotters. While AIS Senior product manager Eric does provide an excellent way to Kunz at Furuno put it this way in track other vessels, it also relies on an email: “It is the true automatic those other vessels being equipped acquisition ARPA capability that with an AIS, having it turned on we bring down from our com- and it working properly. A great mercial radar ARPA systems. True advantage of radar is that you are ARPA is in all of our DRS radars in control of the information you that are compatible with TZT2/ are receiving regarding other ves- TZT3. The NXT radars can be set sels; you’re not relying on them to to acquire … any target that breaks provide you with information. In the Doppler shift threshold. … This addition, radar can be used to assist makes using the NXT radar a truly in navigation. automatic process, and the operator Modern radar units are amazing, doesn’t have to touch the screen at and their capabilities would likely all to track any target detected by have greatly impressed the grease the radar that is a moving navigation pencil-equipped radar users of many threat.” past bridge watches. n

10 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com power voyaging

Good maintenance stops bad fuel STORY AND PHOTOS BY WAYNE CANNING

clean fuel goes into the tank. and in a place that will not Getting fuel from a reliable allow seawater or rain water source is important. Try to to enter. fuel from marinas or other sources that have a high Dealing with air turnover in their fuel supply. Tank vents have to allow Avoid fueling from a stor- air out of a tank when fuel- Left, a filter age tank with old fuel or one ing in addition to letting fitted with a that is close to empty. If pos- air into the tank as fuel is water alarm. sible, put a small sample into withdrawn during engine Below, inspect- a clear container for visual operation. While fueling, if ing the fuel inspection. the fuel flow is slow or air system starts Next, make sure water “burps” from the fill, there at the tank fit- cannot get into the vessel’s may be a problem with the tings. tank from outside sources. vent and fittings. I have seen Water can enter through the tanks collapse during use fill plate on deck, the tank when a clogged vent would s most of us know, good vent and even from the air in not allow air into the tank Aclean fuel is important the tank. It is good practice when running the engine. I to any diesel engine. Because to inspect the fill plate and have also seen many engines of this, it is important to do cap every time fuel is put mysteriously lose rpm and proper routine maintenance aboard. Take a few seconds to run poorly because the fuel to the fuel system to keep inspect the cap and seal for supply was restricted by a your engine performing well. damage or wear. If anything vacuum in the tank. Insect A few simple inspections will does not look right, it should nests, wood chips or debris help keep the fuel flowing be fixed. from rubbing on a dock can and prevent engine failures Often ignored, tank vents completely block air from or performance issues. and fittings can cause prob- Keeping water and dirt lems by either letting water from ever getting into the into the tank or preventing fuel tank and fuel system is air from entering the tank. the first step to maintain- Make sure the vent hose has ing a healthy setup. Check- a loop above the tank top ing the fuel source is not to trap any water entering always easy to do, but there the vent and prevent it from are some precautions that reaching the tank. The vent can be taken to help ensure itself should be located high www.oceannavigator.com SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 11 power voyaging

entering the tank. Routine inspec- during periods of layup, will go a and engine shutdown. This is why tions of the vent, fittings, hoses long way in reducing this problem. it is important to make sure your and any anti-spill devices will help If the filters are often clogged fuel and tanks are clean prior to prevent these issues. or dirty, it may indicate possible voyaging. contamination in the tanks — fuel polish- Taking a clean line ing may be in order. Fuel lines are equally important “Polishing” is filtering to any fuel system and should also the fuel by cycling it be inspected regularly. All fittings, through large filters. along with the fuel lines them- This is usually done selves, should be checked along by placing a pickup their full run from the tank to the tube into the tank engine. Look for signs of wear and as close to the bot- chafing, especially near moving or tom as possible, then vibrating parts. Rubber hoses in particular need to be checked for Above, a leaking fuel filter that needs wear, although metal piping can immediate replacement. Right, fuel hose also fail due to corrosion. If your damage from chafing makes this another rubber fuel lines are more than candidate for replacement, as a hose failure 10 years old, you may want to could produce an engine room mess. Below, consider replacing these, as rubber a nice filter setup with dual filters, a gauge, fuel hoses can sometimes fail inter- extensive labeling and easy access for both nally and cause poor fuel flow or operation and maintenance. complete blockage. When replac- ing fuel lines, make sure to only using a high-volume use marine-grade hose that is U.S. pump to run the fuel Coast Guard-approved for fuel use through the large (this will be labeled on the hose). filters and then back While looking at the fuel lines, into the tank. The be sure to check all the fittings and fuel is cycled through connections as well. Hoses should the filters until it only be connected to other fittings is clean. There are with a hose barb or swaged fitting. many professional Hoses should never be slipped over services that special- smooth tubing or pipe fittings ize in doing this. with or without threads, as this Fuel tank con- can lead to leakage. Hose clamps Although air is needed in a fuel tamination often goes unnoticed should be properly sized and in tank, it can be a double-edged until the vessel encounters rough good condition. Clamps that are sword since it brings moisture in weather with larger seas, and ves- too large can cause the hose to with it. This moisture can conden- sel motion stirs up water and become egg shaped and result in sate on the insides of the tank dur- sediments in the tank. Of course, leaks. Flare-type fittings should be ing temperature changes. Keeping these conditions are also the worst checked for cracks in the flares and the tanks full of fuel, particularly time to encounter a clogged filter all fittings checked for leaks.

12 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com Primary filters fight back secondary fuel filters, which are engines running smoothly, but it It is inevitable that some water and typically mounted on the engine does take a bit of due diligence dirt will get into even the best- just ahead of the injector pump. and time from the captain. It is maintained fuel systems. Good Secondary filters are there to not always better to catch a problem at primary, along with secondary, fuel only catch any contaminants that dock before it becomes a problem filters will keep the engine running slip by the primary filters, but also at sea, so a few simple checks — smoothly. Many fuel filters can be to do a final filtering to remove along with careful regard to what equipped with water alarms and smaller particles that the primaries is put into the tanks — will help vacuum gauges. I consider these a will not. These filters are usually keep the motors happy. n requirement for long-distance off- not changed out as often as the shore passages. Regularly check for primaries, but they still need to be Contributing editor Wayne Can- water and sediments in the filter replaced on a regular basis. This ning is a marine surveyor and writer bowls, and pay extra attention any- is more important if the primary based in Florida, and the author of time the boat has been in a heavy filters were found to have heavy Fiberglass Boat Restoration. He sea that can stir up the tanks. water or other contaminants. sails an Irwin 40, Vayu, that he When talking about fuel filters, A clean and well-maintained salvaged and restored following Hur- it is important not to overlook the fuel system will keep all the ricane Charlie.

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www.oceannavigator.com SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 13 SHORT TACKS

10 tools cruising sailors bring to the stay-at-home table by Sue Muller Hacking On March 19, as Jon and I stayed aboard for the first the voyaging life that has finished setting the hook in 14 days. So, with the sails honed these skills. Corong Corong Bay, Pala- stowed and the anchor set, 1. Flexibility: Despite wan, we were approached we hunkered down under the fanatic independence of by the Philippine coast the towering limestone most cruisers, living on the cliffs of El Nido. Far from sea is humbling. There are being upset by this, we told things we can’t control — ourselves it was one more the seasons, the tides, winds adventure, and settled into a and weather. The result is routine of, well, hanging out that we often have to change on the boat. I blithely began plans, even huge plans, writing essays about how based on those or other fac- prepared we yachties are for tors. Postpone a trip to the Sue Hacking this sort of thing. I figured States? Check. Postpone a there were 10 tools we bring trip to Africa? Check. Post- to this “stay-at-home” table pone our son’s wedding? guard and told to leave. The — tools that at-home sailors Ouch, but check. enhanced community quar- might relate to. I thought we were pre- antine was newly in effect, I didn’t know how deeply pared, but the truth is that Above, Sue and we were unwelcome. I would have to dig into all those previous times of Hacking repair- We pled our case and that toolbox to survive in having to change plans or ing Ocelot’s were finally granted permis- these uncharted seas we’re shelter from a storm had awning. Right, sion to stay, as long as we sailing. But I am grateful for an end in sight. A plan to the Hackings’ 45-foot cata- maran Ocelot at Corong Corong in the Philippines. Sue Hacking

14 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com be made. Something fun to look simple pleasures like reading, fingers crossed that we don’t need forward to. After 50 days of lock- photography, birdwatching, mak- any big engine work done in this down, we see no end in sight; ing music, working on the website small tourist village. we have no chart of the months and making satellite navigational 5. Caution: Voyaging at sea ahead. The Philippines has no charts. Normally we appreciate means we might be many months plan to open ports. the value of exercise, be it swim- out of reach of medical facili- 2. Preparedness: As voyaging ming or hiking ashore. Engaging ties. We have learned how to care sailors, we never know when we in these activities reduces stress for ourselves as well as when to might stay in some remote des- and keeps us healthy. seek medical help. We use all the tination longer than expected, Now, after 50 days, we are resources available to us — Inter- or encounter bad weather that still enjoying mental exercise but net, email and networking — to delays our departure or return, the physical is tough. Recreation solve minor medical issues. In this so we prepare for the long haul. is prohibited, so no swimming, pandemic, we have to be extra We keep cash dollars on hand paddling or walking the beach. cautious to stay uninjured and for the day the ATMs are offline. When we go snorkeling, we take a healthy so we won’t need to visit We stock the boat with food and fishing line in the dinghy because the hospital. necessities to last for months. We fishing is permitted. As for walk- We finally researched how don’t hoard, but we provision ing (with masks on, of course), many doctors and hospital beds thoughtfully and then prepare we need a goal so we can tell the there are on Palawan (very, very food with care so that we don’t quarantine pass checkers that few), so we really don’t want to run out of essentials. we’re headed for the ATM or the get sick here. We can’t even get With no end in sight to our market. The Philippine police transport to Puerto Princesa, the being in El Nido, I have to re- have permission to shoot people capital of Palawan, five hours evaluate our eating habits. Usu- who break quarantine or curfew. away unless it’s a life-or-death ally I would “make do,” knowing We stay vigilant. situation. There is no transport by we could sail to another port or 4. Self-reliance: There are no land or sea to Manila or Cebu. a larger city for more provisions. services at sea, and being able to 6. Community and network- Moving the boat, or even travel- fix things is a requirement for all ing: As cruisers, we form our ing overland, is not an option cruisers. We have to be our own own large community and we fre- now — and it is a concern. A fun plumbers, electricians, woodwork- quently become part of the com- side: The total alcohol ban means ers, mechanics, sailmakers and munities where we anchor. Most we are making ginger beer and more. With good Internet, we of us make friends easily and rice wine on board. might even be able to expand our quickly learn the ways in which 3. Mental and physical exer- skills with some online tutoring! we can help each other. I think cise: Voyaging sailors live to sail The reality is that we rarely most voyaging sailors carry these and travel, and although right have all the bits and pieces we attitudes with them, whether at now we can’t do either, we still need for a project. And it’s unlike- sea or at home. have a life on the boat. And, of ly the little hardware stores here We feel more isolated than we course, boats always have unfin- will carry that widget or fitting expected and miss the potlucks ished projects. We also have our that we need. We’re keeping our and sundowner gatherings that

www.oceannavigator.com SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 15 SHORT TACKS

Jon Hacking observes an information truck used by local Philippines officials to inform residents on ways to combat the pandemic.

safety and disaster means evaluat- ing our information for fact ver- sus fiction. Is this chart accurate? Is that weather report giving me all the information I need? The more facts we have, the more we trust our sources and the safer we feel about the decisions we make. No one has sailed the seas of this pandemic before, but many are

Sue Hacking more qualified to speak about it than we are. We’ll sort fact from fiction, build trust in the sources and follow the guidelines the define our social lives. It’s strange 8. Family life skills: Cruis- experts suggest. to pass the other cruising boats ing couples and families live in 10. Optimism: Yachties are, without extending an invitation close quarters. Our boats are by and large, an optimistic bunch to get together. much smaller than the average of folks. We tend to look for the The last four tools are apartment or house! The trick to good in other people and the good unchanged from how I wrote surviving (and even thriving) is in any situation. Being used to them in mid-March. So far, knock to give everyone their space, both traveling outside our own states or on wood, we haven’t been blind- emotional and physical. It means countries means we are generally sided by unforeseen difficulties. letting someone settle in behind ready to give others the benefit of 7. Communication skills: a closed door if that’s what they the doubt, and to help and receive Because we are so alone at sea, want. It means respecting oth- help from strangers. Being opti- cruisers rely on long-distance ers’ wishes, and knowing when mistic and open-hearted are valu- communication. While on pas- to be silent and when to speak able skills in these trying times. sage, we speak to friends via the up — and it means being able to We will get through this. radio or satellite text messages, or forgive and be flexible. It helps to via email and social media when remember that harsh words once —Sue and Jon have been in lockdown on possible. Communicating verbally said can neither be taken back nor their 45-foot catamaran, Ocelot, in the west- and by written word helps us feel easily forgotten. When you’re all ern Philippines since mid-March. Although connected to a larger community. at sea on a small boat, it’s good to they have sailed in Southeast Asia for the These skills should stand the at- keep your eye on the big picture past 10 years, their home port is Seattle. You home sailor in good stead. and, most of all, keep a sense of can follow Sue and Jon on their Facebook If anything, the pandemic has humor. page (facebook.com/svOcelot) and via their increased our communication 9. Trust: As sailors, we often extensive website, svOcelot.com. Sue Muller with family and friends via Skype, venture into unknown waters Hacking is the author of the Seattle-area email and social media. where the difference between guidebook Take A Walk (Sasquatch Books).

16 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com The rebuilding of Golden Rule, the first protest boat by Ann Hoffner It’s a misty day in the photo have been her end. But this and send out feelers for fund- and the sand is brownish was the sailboat Golden Rule, ing. The call was answered by gray, setting off the white the first boat to try to sail Veterans for Peace, a group Left, Golden paint of the derelict hull as if into an H-bomb testing area founded in 1985 by U.S. Rule after the boat were lit by a ray of to protest nuclear weapons veterans concerned about the being dragged sunshine. She had sunk after in 1958. Fifty-two years after global nuclear arms race. Its onto the beach being battered by a storm exiting the known world, mission to build “a culture of following its while tied to pilings nearby. Golden Rule had reappeared. peace” by nonviolent means grounding. No name shows on her tran- Zerlang knew enough of fits the beliefs of the Quakers Below, after som and her wooden sides are her history to be intrigued who first sailed Golden Rule. five years of restoration Based on work, Golden Sea Witch Rule was Golden Rule is an launched into A-30 Alpha ketch Humboldt Bay designed and built on June 20, by Hugh Angelman 2015. and Charles Davies in Los Angeles in 1957. The A-30 is a smaller version of Sea Witch, a beamy

Dr. Arnold (Skip) Oliver clipper-bowed, 36-foot, gaff-rigged ketch that won the Transpac race in 1951. The Sea Witch stove in, her insides a mess. Two days later, the boat was hauled out by Leroy Zerlang of Zerlang & Zerlang Marine Services on Humboldt Bay in Northern California. Zer- lang specializes in resurrect- ing wooden boats — and a shipwright said she could be repaired, but renovation is an expensive proposition with- out a fixed end. Had she been an ordinary yacht, this would Dr. Arnold (Skip) Oliver www.oceannavigator.com SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 17 SHORT TACKS

Helen Jaccard design is still in use in the cruising School of Wooden Boatbuilding; The ketch Golden Rule under sail following community, especially on the South master shipwright David Peter- a successful restoration. Pacific run where the design works son; woodworker Mike Gonzalez; well for trade wind sailing. Herb welder/metal fabricator Dennis 30-hp Yamaha engine was donated “Dynamite” Payson owned a Sea Thompson; and a daily roster of and installed. Also in 2012, the Witch, about which he wrote his volunteers to help with restoration yard held a “whiskey plank party” cruising books. and fundraising. where the final hull plank was Now, in 2010 Fredy and Sherry Golden Rule was hauled off the screwed in place. Champagne heard about a peace sand and set upright where a shed boat having washed ashore and, could be built around her. Her Launched in Humboldt Bay non-sailors that they were, showed frame was repaired with tough A new main mast was built from up at Zerlang’s. Fredy, a Vietnam American purpleheart and her dam- eight 20-foot vertical grain fir veteran, and Sherry, a musician and aged planks removed to be replaced planks scarfed to make four 40-foot artist, are longtime members of with Port Orford cedar — a planks. The mast was put together the Northern California chapter of durable, light-colored wood native by a large team of people recruited Veterans for Peace. When Zerlang to the area. Zerlang found two to mix epoxy, brush it on and agreed to provide the yard space wooden boats to salvage for parts, clamp the planks together in a and repair facilities, the Cham- and the team melted 90 pounds square spar that was then shaped, pagnes formed the VFP Golden of brass to pour their own rudder sanded and painted. In June 2015, Rule Project along with Chuck fittings and make belaying pins for Golden Rule splashed to great fan- DeWitt, a Navy veteran and the Golden Rule and to sell as well. In fare into Humboldt Bay. The boat project’s restoration coordinator; 2012, a local artist painted Golden was sailed to San Diego in time Brecken Van Veldhuizen, a young Rule’s name in the original font on for the VFP National Conven- recent graduate of the Northwest the restored brightwork transom. A tion with a captain, first mate and

18 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com volunteer crew. Her deck and cove them from reaching the H-bomb Hawaii. The project has produced stripe were painted sky blue and test zone in the Marshall Islands), an excellent documentary film, her red sails emblazoned with peace then on to the Marshalls, Guam, which is at the project’s website, symbols and the VFP logo. They Okinawa and Japan in time for the www.vfpgoldenruleproject.org. invited people for tours at stops and 75th commemoration of the atomic Albert Bigelow, a Quaker Navy partnered with local peace activist bombing of Hiroshima. captain in WWII and the boat’s groups to educate the public. As Golden Rule has made it to first skipper, realized the way to Chuck DeWitt said, she became “a Honolulu and, according to project get to an island nuclear testing weapon of mass education.” manager Helen Jaccard, has reached zone was by small boat. Today, like Fears of a new nuclear arms funding goals for sailing to the then — as he wrote in his book, race fed by small smart weapons, western Pacific but will have to wait The Voyage of the Golden Rule: An in addition to the group’s reaction for coronavirus to work its course. Experiment with Truth — the idea to the Fukushima nuclear plant When it does, you can watch Gold- is to send a “tiny white sail slowly accident, spurred the group to en Rule’s progress on share.garmin. westward to blow the horrid deed enlarge Golden Rule’s mission. In com/goldenrule. If interested, you in every eye. The act would speak 2018, VFP started planning to send can look into being a crewmember, louder than words.” n her back across the Pacific, first and the project always needs fund- to Honolulu (where her original ing help — especially now, with —Ann Hoffner voyaged with husband Tom Bai- crew were jailed in 1958 to prevent the unforeseen costs of staying in ley aboard their Peterson 44, Oddly Enough.

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www.oceannavigator.com SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 19 A cultural and visual spectacle Sailing a multihull through western Cuba

BY P. ANDRE ARGUIMBAU

P. Andre Arguimbau

or those in search touring museums, art galler- sprawls across two square Above, Bella of fair winds, an ies and a few architectural miles of old-world struc- Signora crew- umbrella-laden marvels from the Spanish tures. Given its cultural heri- members beverage and an conquest. Throughout our tage, the city was deemed a Scott Hill- Fincreased sense of adventure, trip, we formed an unwaver- UNESCO World Heritage man, Sheldon Cuba provides. U.S.-Cuba ing respect for the spirit of Site as the best example of Pariser and relations easing in December the Cuban people, and the 19th-century Spanish archi- Alex Stroud on of 2014 provided an oppor- untouched beauty of the tecture and urban planning deck as Andre tunity for voyagers to sail the coastline. in the Americas. We had a Arguimbau island. One year later, we S/Y Bella Signora, a dinner at Marina Puerto Sol takes their arrived to our charter in the 47-foot Nautitech built in that was bland, but a plate picture while southern Cuba port of Cien- 2004, was described to us of chicken, rice, vegetables repairing a fuegos to begin a 600-nm as the fastest charter on the and fries with a beer only lazy jack. voyage to Havana. Book- southern coast. Provision- cost $3. After a swim in the ing our trip was relatively ing was expensive. The marina pool, we hitched a standard, and what obstacles natural fruits and vegetables ride downtown for some did surface added to the appeared to be grown with- dancing. romance of the experience. out preservatives, and I did While it was our primary not recognize many food A daylight passage desire to explore Cuba’s brands in the market. The following morning coastline, our trip included The city of Cienfuegos we departed Cienfuegos in

20 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com darkness, navigating through finding a water sport rental evening we moseyed about a narrow passage into the Below, Andre business with jet skis, kay- the resorts, quickly realizing , making our prepares one aks, sailboats and dolphins. our preference for the marina course for Cayo Largo locat- of the lobsters We swam back to the boat and nearby dance hut, where ed about 75 miles southwest. he obtained and motored to the marina, our entertainment consisted Our charter company rec- from a local where a port captain named of rowdy Australians, Swiss ommended we make it in fisherman via Pire welcomed us like sons

daylight since we needed a barter. Right, and guided us to a slip for UNITED STATES ATLANTIC slip as our final crewmember Bella Signora’s $30 a night. Pire served in OCEAN was arriving from Havana, route through the Cuban Revolutionary but all attempted communi- western Cuba. Armed Forces during the G u l f o f cations with him had failed. communist intervention M e x i c o The sun appeared as we in Angola and the Oga- sailed past the Bay of Pigs, MEXICO and with it a breeze filled in. CUBA 24° N Route of Our speed averaged 14 knots Bella Signora

for most of the afternoon Havana and drove breakfast from Cayo Levisa a couple stomachs aboard. CUBA Bella Signora was the only Los Nueva Cienfuegos vessel in Alboran’s sailboat Morros Gerona Bay charter fleet allowed to make 22° of Pigs Maria Cayo Cayo the trip to Havana, and the la Gorda Largo Isla de la Rosario four staterooms and extra Juventud bunks made her a comfort- able choice. 84° W 82° 80° We arrived in the late afternoon at Playa Sirena, den War in Ethiopia, and bankers, standoffish Italians threw a hook and made for he had a picture of himself and a bitter Canadian expat. the restaurant bar — also with Fidel hanging behind A pair of vacated machine- his desk. It was clear Pire is gun pillboxes lay to the west a proud Cuban, yet he was of the lively marina bar and open about how earning $20 restaurant, reminding us how a month as a government recently hostilities between employee isn’t always sus- our nations had simmered. tainable. The next morning, we Guarded by sandbars motored to Cayeria los and reefs Majaes, home to the Cuban Cayo Largo is home to sev- rock iguana. We tossed a eral resorts and lies on the football and fly-fished in eastern edge of Canarreos the natural pools that form Archipelago, a group of vol- between the islands. Alex canic, coral and mangrove

Andy Lewis caught and released what islands that make up the looked to be a yellowhead southern perimeter of the wrasse on his fly rod. That Gulf of Batabano. A series of www.oceannavigator.com OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 21 P. Andre Arguimbau sandbars make Cayo Largo’s approached Bella Signora A colorful sun- guard) the following morn- northern coastline unnavi- and we signaled them to tie rise off Bella ing, so we anchored in a gable, and the south is sur- up. Cuba banned commer- Signora’s bow. cove a mile east to celebrate rounded by a reef system cial fishing in 1997, but the Christmas Eve over fresh where a catamaran sank the small boats provide room lobster and rum. evening prior to our arrival, for free divers to collect sev- Less than two miles leaving 15 crew stranded eral hundred lobsters before southeast of our position lay and in need of rescue. The returning to port. We bar- Presidio Modelo, the prison southwestern side, however, tered rum, coffee and beer where the Castro brothers offers a comfortable anchor- for a dozen lobsters and set were held after the 26th of age and is a likely place sail for Nueva Gerona. July Movement failed to where Christopher Colum- While crossing Quitasol overthrow Batista in 1953. bus and Sir Francis Drake Passage, the sun escaped In 1959, Castro began fill- made their arrival five centu- behind Isla de la Juventud, ing the prison with those ries earlier. Reefs and islands silhouetting two mountains who opposed his govern- are marked, but most aids and illuminating the moon ment. to navigation lack lights and behind us. The wind died are best cruised first in day- as we entered the shallow Permission granted light. Andy’s arrival revived passage and our depth read Christmas morning’s light our morale and allowed us 2 feet beneath our rud- revealed the guard station at to continue westward. The ders. It was my first time the head of Río Las Casas, wind built from the east skippering a large catama- where a captain informed and we made for Cayo del ran, and her shallow draft us we did not have permis- Rosario under a full moon, proved necessary to navigate sion to enter. After a tricky arriving on Christmas Eve to Cuba’s southern coastline. docking, I began telling the a marmalade sunrise. Just before dark, we radi- guard captain how we need- We learned the long oed in our position to the ed to provision and make uninhabited island is for harbormaster and requested repairs to our rigging, and sale, but the Castros rejected entrance to Nueva Gerona, after some head-scratching bids from a Japanese sumo the capital and largest port translations he granted us wrestler and a Latin Ameri- on Isla de la Juventud. He Christmas in Nueva Gerona can pop artist, among oth- explained that we must get to “make repairs.” Our char- ers. While surveying the approval from the Guarda ter company told us Nueva island, a Cuban lobster boat Frontera (Cuban coast Gerona was off-limits to

22 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com pleasure craft, but we had currencies: one for Cuban the funding ceased and the also been told that “in Cuba, Below, the citizens, and another for buildings were converted anything is possible and mangrove foreigners and luxury goods into community housing. nothing is for certain.” islands on sales. The USD is pegged On the southwest coast, As we motored upriver, south side 1:1 to the Cuban convert- Hotel El Colony provides the water became putrid of the Gulf ible peso (CUC), which is a restaurant bar, swimming and a rusted petrol depot of Batabano. pegged 1:25 with the Cuban pool and tranquil beach. The and commercial freight The Spanish- peso (CUP). Each of our ice hotel had not been repaired dock emerged. We docked registered creams had cost CUP$1 and since before Hurricane Gus- in front of a large ferry and Bella Signora we had tried to pay 25 times tav’s 140-mph winds made a port captain thoroughly flies the Span- searched Bella Signora before ish colors. clearing us onto the island. Right, Scott Each step outside the marina and Andy with gates took us further back in the sun setting time. Donkeys and horses behind Isla de were the transportation of la Juventud. choice, however, motorcycles and 1950s Chevys also put- Alex Stroud that. The limited scope of landfall in 2008, but it is a a Cuban citizen’s purchas- charming place. Andy and I ing power washed over me, played soccer with a group and their need for extra of kids, and we ordered income explained the barter lunch and drinks from the and yearly exodus of 50,000 pool bar. A mile south of young people — many of the hotel, Marina Sigua- whom leave from Isla de la nea provides safe refuge

Scott Hillman Juventud, a direct transla- and borders Punta Frances tion of “Isle of Youth.” I National Park. The Soviets noticed tanks and AK-47s built a missile site east of the pictured on the currency, marina fuel depot, and we tered by. Children crowded yet our taxi driver explained found a system of defensive Nueva Gerona’s central how all weapons were seized concrete trenches surround- park, where an elegant muse- following the revolution. ing the area. um borders the south side Our driver pointed out and a performing arts acad- several dormitory buildings A simple feast emy the west. We purchased where students from other While in search of the ice cream from an honest communist countries around fortifications we met two vendor who returned a large the world once roomed as Swedes, Gabriella Bauer and wad of unfamiliar bills. they studied medicine and Karolina Alpsjo, who joined Cuba maintains two official agriculture. In the 1990s, us for drinks on Bella Signo-

OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 23 eerie, especially at night. Shortly after dawn, large swells rolled; soon after, land appeared. Tacking around a point revealed Maria la Gorda, a scuba diving out- post in Guanahacabibes National Park. The large uninhabited area is home to more than 300 animal spe- cies, 700 plant species and dozens of pre-Columbian archaeological sites of the Guanahatabey indigenous peoples.

Scott Hillman The Bay of Currents We picked up a mooring and motored in for lunch ra that evening. Christmas dropping to salsa that sent and a look around. The dinner at Nueva Gerona’s everyone into an elaborate resort was quaint, but guests most highly touted paladar reciprocity of human energy, seemed to be enjoying them- was a simple affair — yet the but not us. selves. We departed to sail upside was that 10 pizzas, On Boxing Day, we wan- the Bay of Currents, an aptly appetizers and a few bottles dered in search of drinking named stretch of 25 miles of wine came to CUC$22. Andy and water and food, passing near where the Gulf Stream Following dinner we met Andre after long lines of people waiting forms between the Caribbe- up with Yorelis, a friend of crossing Qui- to receive rations through an and the Gulf of Mexico. the water sports rental man- tasol Passage Libreta de Abastecimiento, A sudden wind shift shat- ager I’d befriended on Cayo between Cayo the Cuban food distribution tered two mainsheet blocks Largo. Yorelis is a baseball Grande and system. It wasn’t until an during an uncontrolled gybe coach, and he showed us Bajo de la Italian expat stopped us to just as we crossed Roncali around and introduced us to Malanga on determine our situation did Lighthouse, Cuba’s western- his friends. Around 11 p.m., Christmas Eve. we learn Isla de la Juventud most point. Darkness moved music beckoned us to the had been out of bottled in and a breeze continued to corner of Calle Jose Marti water for weeks. build on our starboard aft and Calle 24. We each paid We returned to the quarter — but as we cleared CUC$1 cover and entered boat, purchased some die- another point, greater pres- a lively courtyard, which sel and sandwiches, and sure on our port beam connected to a bar and headed downriver to begin formed and we fell off the dancehall from where the our 130-mile passage to prevailing weather. Through thunderous sound emanated. western Cuba. The wind the darkness, a faint light As the only Americans pres- remained directly astern, marked Marina Los Mor- ent, we attempted to blend and after tying a preventer ros and the end of the most by hitting the dance floor into the main we sailed wing challenging 40 miles of the — only to find out how out- on wing, holding 7 knots voyage. In heavy chop and matched we were. The reg- through the night. The total 30-mph gusts, we kicked on gaeton roared, occasionally lack of maritime traffic was our motors and dropped sail

24 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com to dock along a cement pier. from Havana by a taxi and By 10 a.m., we were in Bella Signora was the only ferry. We found an anchor- a 1950s Chevy coast- boat in sight, and our arrival age on the south side of the ing along El Malecón, was noted by Dutch and island where we spent the a roadway that bor- Ukrainian diplomats dining night. The following morn- ders Havana’s harbor. at the marina restaurant to ing, we sailed to the island’s Cuba’s former capitol whom we introduced our- beach resort, spending the building is very similar selves. day between the water and to the U.S. Capitol and The next morning, the bar. That evening the resort is best visible from the port captain told me our served up a tasty dinner, and pool deck of the Segovia papers were not in order and after a close chess game with Bella Signora Hotel. In 1959, Castro refused to clear Bella Signora two Italian brothers we din- docked in Mari- relocated the politburo from Los Morros. After ghied back to Bella Signora. na Heming- to Revolution Square, considerable debate entirely A favorable wind meant our way outside a series of concrete in Spanish, I pointed to a departure for Havana, and Havana. high-rises surrounding a phone number in my cap- we began a 70-nm night pavement expanse. We tain’s license and told him passage. As we motored visited the Museum of I would be reporting a dip- out of the bay, a shallow the Revolution where lomatic conflict to the U.S. unmarked reef trimmed a old fighter planes sur- State Department. I asked couple inches of fiberglass round Granma, the how long it would be before off our port rudder. 43-foot cabin cruiser Havana would call asking Fidel and Che Guevara why he was holding a group Sunrise in Havana used to transport the of innocent Americans. Sunrise illuminated 1956 revolutionary He fled his office shout- Havana’s business district force from Mexico. ing and drove off in a van. and Marina Hemingway, Across the street, the I called him over the radio our final destination. Three repeatedly before another miles out, the Guarda port captain from Roncali Frontera hailed us on the Lighthouse heard my trans- radio and instructed us to missions, and after taking check in with them upon care to properly explain our entering. Waves crashed all situation he drove over to around the marina entrance, check us out. I would not indicating a threatening know the reason for the reef system. As we neared port captain’s hostility until shore, however, a nar- reconnecting with the dip- row cut appeared and we lomats in Havana. Although concluded our voyage. We many Cubans favor restor- received our final search, ing trade relations with the and the dockmaster coinci- U.S., the fear of an Allied dentally directed us to our invasion like the Bay of Pigs pier right behind Enticer, remains a real concern for an 85-foot Trumpy owned some Cubans. by a friend from Newport. Into the Gulf Stream we Marina Hemingway has res- sailed to begin the 125-nm taurants and a hotel, but the passage to Cayo Levisa, an five channels of docks and

island paradise accessible amenities require repairs. P. Andre Arguimbau www.oceannavigator.com OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 25 National Museum of Fine war. The squealing of pigs would likely cause social Arts boasts a large collection to slaughter echoed through unrest. No matter who or of modern and conceptual exposed structures that how I asked, nobody wanted pieces. Most Cuban paint- housed artisans producing to give their opinion of what ers rely on mixing creative ceramics, textiles and food the future would bring. I visuals with bright colors, products. Everyone we spoke thanked my hosts and stum- and much of the collection with said they had access to bled in search of a cab to depicts their revolution- healthcare, food and educa- join Scott and Alex at Fab- ary struggle. It was the first tion, but the lack of good rica de Arte Cubano (FAC). time I’d been in a museum employment opportunities After exploring the maze-like where many of the artists was also a common theme structure of art and dance, were still living. Tomas we heard. the FAC became my favorite Sanchez is a talented oil That evening, I joined discovery of the trip. The the diplomats we met in Los massive venue contains near- Morros for drinks before ly a dozen creative exhibits, meeting my buddies at Casa three bars and two dance de la Musica Habana. Much floors — and they know how of the nightlife is focused on to throw a party. entertainment, and we were I spent the first day of the sent to establishments called new year wandering about Shangri La and Las Piedras Havana, returning to Marina that had a vintage Las Vegas Hemingway in the evening ambiance, and the danc- to pack and prepare the boat ing was impressive. The last for the delivery crew arriving day of the year, we stayed the next day. In late Janu- in Marina Hemingway by ary, my aunt Mariette called the pool and an ice machine with word from a Pittsburgh mechanic let me take his friend whose daughter had motorcycle for a ride. coincidentally met a group That evening, I accepted of American sailors in Cayo the Dutch diplomat’s invi- Levisa over Christmas Scott Hillman tation to a New Year’s Eve break, and one of the last party at an Austrian diplo- names sounded like mine. mat’s residence. Talking to As I remembered meeting painter I approached to see the people tasked with open- the girl, I realized we were if he might have interest in A street scene ing Cuba to their respec- not alone. The invasion has showing with Mariner Gal- in Old Havana. tive nation’s economies begun, and those who get lery, our family’s business in highlighted the constrictive off the beaten path will find Newport, R.I., and the pri- nature of state-run commu- a lapse in material change mary reason for our trip. nism. The regime is opening that makes for a cultural and up new types of business visual spectacle that exceeds Held together by licenses but primarily in all expectations. n scaffolding tourism and entertainment. Much of Old Havana is held The general consensus of P. Andre Arguimbau is an together with scaffolding the diplomats was that Cuba executive recruiter in New decades old, and some blocks is not ready for big change, York City and an owner of look like Berlin after a world and expediting the process Mariner Gallery in Newport.

26 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com WEATHER

How to get the most from your weather router

Planning, communication and flexibility STORY AND PHOTOS BY KEN MCKINLEY

eather routers achts, cruising and racing do their best to help their cli- provide services to sailboats, trawler yachts and ents make the weather-relat- Wocean voyagers for even human-powered craft. ed decisions needed to have a passages all around the globe. While the weather router successful voyage. However, These professionals are usu- will contribute their expertise the definition of success can Above, two possi- ally degreed meteorologists to each routing engagement, be very different for each ble routes to Ber- who also have expertise in each client must come to the client. And there is the first muda. A weather ocean currents, the dynamics engagement with a certain piece of information that the router can help of sea state, and local weather amount of in making the phenomena that occur in advance right decision as different areas of the world. preparation to which to take. Routers also have an under- in order Left, router Ken standing of the issues faced to get the McKinley advises by voyagers in many different highest ben- a client from his types of vessels, from large efit from Locus Weather commercial ships like tankers the service. office. and containerships to much In the sim- smaller recreational boats. plest terms, Clients can include oceango- the job of ing tugs and barges, commer- a weather cial fishing vessels, megay- router is to www.oceannavigator.com 27 WEATHER

recreational A passage plan Condition Definition voyagers As the voyage planning pro- can get the cess advances to the point Ideal Nearly perfect conditions most out of of selecting and engaging a

Conditions which are not perfect, but still very good and weather rout- weather router, one of the Favorable well within limits set for the voyage ing services. first things a router can con- This requires tribute in the early stages Conditions which remain below limits set for the voyage, Acceptable a significant of forming a passage plan is but may be a bit uncomfortable at times amount of their knowledge of seasonal Conditions which approach (or exceed for short periods Marginal advance prep- weather patterns around of time) limits set for the voyage aration, which the world. This can help to Conditions which often or always exceed limits set for should begin determine if the proposed Unacceptable the voyage many months passage is feasible or not. (or even more) Routers can provide advice Conditions which exceed the capabilities of the vessel Perilous and/or crew, and therefore endanger the safety of crew ahead of to help decide on the best and passengers and threaten the vessel departure with time of year for a given pas- some educa- sage. This preliminary advice, weather router needs from tion. There are many oppor- while not including specific the client: What will consti- tunities for ocean voyagers to weather forecast information, Table 1: tute a successful passage for learn more about meteorol- can include factors like pre- Classifying your particular situation? ogy, including utilizing many vailing seasonal wind and sea conditions For most commercial online resources as well as state patterns, the possibility that voyagers vessels, a successful passage webinars and in-person semi- of tropical cyclones along the might face on involves getting the vessel nars. route, and whether or not sea a passage. from the departure port to Learning about the three- ice or icebergs might impact the arrival port reasonably dimensional structure of the passage. The router will close to an established sched- weather systems, and clima- advise as to whether the ule with no loss or damage of tological patterns through planned schedule or route cargo, no significant damage the seasons in various regions might need to be altered to the vessel, no injuries to of the oceans, is a great idea. because of any of these fac- the crew, and with a reason- It’s also beneficial to become tors. able efficiency in terms of familiar with publicly avail- As discussed above, your fuel consumption. The com- able weather analysis and weather router will want to fort of the crew, or “enjoy- forecast products, particular- know what you will consider ment of the passage” is far ly those that can be obtained to be a successful passage. down the list of importance at sea, as these will put the This is something that needs to the vessel operator. voyager in a stronger posi- to be determined even before In the recreational sector, tion to have a well-informed a router is engaged, and it however, the enjoyment of discussion with the router. A will depend on many factors. the passage is near the top router who knows that their These factors will include the of the list for most passages, client has more knowledge capabilities of the boat, the with the possible exception than the average sailor about experience of the crew, and of vessel deliveries. For all ocean weather will be able to the general time frame or passages, the number-one engage with that client on a schedule of the passage. goal is safety. higher level, and the result While routers will want Let’s concentrate on how will be a better service. to have some defined limits

28 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com from their clients in terms of combination of wind waves indication of how frequently wind and sea state conditions and swell, as well as swell and for what duration condi- that cannot be tolerated, it is direction. tions that have been defined also very helpful for the rout- This exercise should be as “acceptable” or “marginal” er to have a more subjective completed before contacting can be tolerated. It is helpful idea of how the client would a weather router and well for the router to know who like the passage to proceed. in advance of the planned will be on the passage, and In terms of objectively departure date. This allows whether or not there will be defining the limits of these the limits to be communicat- “passengers” on board — conditions, Table 1 (see page ed to the router at the start of meaning individuals who 28) is offered as a method his or her engagement. It is have little to no experience, of classifying situations that not necessary to transmit the and who will not be expected could be encountered during full table to the router, but to assist in any meaningful a voyage. There are six classi- the table can be used in con- way with daily tasks during fications of conditions shown versations concerning your the passage. Table 2: A in this table. The conditions upper limits for the passage. Conveying to the router form for cli- at any given time during a what type of a passage is ents to define voyage will fall into one of More subjective criteria desired and a general phi- their prefer- these classifications. The The initial discussion with losophy of sailing is also very ences for a definition of these classifica- the router should include not helpful. Any other informa- voyage. tions, however, will be differ- only the objective limits as tion that helps the router ent for each voyage, taking determined above, but also understand what the situa- into account the vessel, crew some more subjective criteria. tion on board will be during abilities and the overall goals Working from the table of the passage is useful. For of the passage. objective limits, it is helpful example, if a router knows It is useful to use a form to provide the router with an that there is someone on like Table 2, at right, to define these classifications as Vessel: Skipper: carefully as possible prior to each voyage. There is great Crew/Passengers: value in physically putting Dates of Passage: pencil to paper and writing down your personal limits, Departure Port: Arrival Port: rather than just thinking Comments: about them and coming up with general thoughts on the Condition Winds Seas Weather subject. Ideal When defining limits of wind speeds, differences in Favorable wind direction should be Acceptable noted. For most voyagers, stronger wind speeds can be Marginal tolerated if the wind direc- tion is behind the beam. Unacceptable Similarly, sea state limits Perilous should take into account the www.oceannavigator.com SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 29 WEATHER

board who is unusually sus- a cruising sailboat, typically conditions. Powerboats may ceptible to seasickness, this one speed will be used for provide an average speed Table 3: A can help the router make planning with the assump- for the passage as well as the hypothetical more appropriate recom- tion that the engine will be ability to attain faster speeds example of mendations for the passage. used when winds are too for some period of time, a voyager’s Information about the light to keep the speed up. which may be limited due to routing pref- boat also needs to be pro- For a sailboat race, polar increased fuel consumption. erences. vided to the router ahead of diagrams should be provided The method of commu- time, including what speed so that the router can deter- nication that will be used the boat will be making dur- mine what speed the boat during the passage must be ing the passage. In the case of will achieve in different wind established ahead of time and tested well in advance of departure while there is Vessel: S/V Happy Days Skipper: John Doe still time to make adjust- Crew/Passengers: Wife, teenage son and daughter, some experience ments if needed. Having Dates of Passage: July 5-15 a backup method of com- munication is wise. Email Departure Port: Woods Hole, MA Arrival Port: addresses and/or satphone Comments: Could consider going south to Delaware Bay or Norfolk if weather and/or Gulf Stream was more favorable. Return trip needs to begin no later than July 25th. numbers need to be in the hands of the router prior to Condition Winds Seas Weather your departure. Voice quality Ideal 15 knots abeam or Less than 4 feet Clear, good visibility on satphone calls can vary; abaft of the beam, not dead astern so, if the phone number is not provided ahead of time Favorable 5-25 knots, but not more Up to 5 feet, longer Visibility at least 2 miles, than 17 knots when period swells of up to brief showers of light and a voyager places a call to headed upwind. Calm 8 feet OK precipitation OK winds for no more than the router, reaches voicemail 4 hours at a time. and leaves a message with the Acceptable 25-30 knots abeam or Up to 6 feet, longer Visibility at least 1 mile, number, often one or two abaft of the beam, 18-21 period swells of up to steady precipitation knots when headed 10 feet OK OK, squally conditions digits end up being unintel- upwind. Brief gusts over of up to 2 hours at a 35 knots OK, unless time OK ligible. Many caller ID sys- going upwind. Calm tems cannot properly display winds for no more than 8 hours at a time. satphone numbers, so this cannot be depended on as a Marginal 30-35 knots abaft of the 6-8 feet, longer period Moderate to beam, up to 21-25 knots swell of 10-12 feet occasionally heavy method to get a call back. when going upwind. precipitation, frequent Occasional gusts over 40 squally conditions but knots – OR – Calm winds with breaks of at least Schedule flexibility for more than 8 hours an hour at a time on 2 or more days. It’s also important for the Unacceptable Greater than 35 knots, 8-11 feet, swells 12-15 Continuous moderate router to be aware of sched- except greater than 28 feet to heavy precipitation, knots when going visibility less than a ule flexibility. If there is a upwind. Frequent gusts mile, near zero at times. particularly open schedule, over 45 knots – OR – Nearly continuous Calm winds for the squalls. then the router may be able entire passage. to let a voyager know that Perilous Greater than 45 knots, Greater than 11 feet, Continuous heavy even though conditions except greater than 35 swells greater than 15 precipitation, visibility knots when going feet frequently near zero. would be acceptable for upwind. Frequent gusts Nearly continuous over 55 knots. severe squalls. the passage on the primary departure date, a far superior

30 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com pattern might be able to be real- boat to the router should include low on provisions or fuel, and any ized by waiting for a few days. at a minimum your position (lat/ other details of daily shipboard life If departure plans change, don’t long), current wind speed and that can be shared. This informa- forget to inform the router as soon direction, and sea state. Giving tion — seemingly unrelated to as the decision is made. Rout- feedback to your router during the weather info that the router is ers get annoyed when they put a the passage is extremely helpful — most concerned with — actually great deal of effort into a departure both in terms of the weather and does help them understand how forecast and route plan, only to be sea state conditions being experi- things are going on board, which told that the plans were changed enced, but also in terms of how can be factored in to recommenda- the day before and the clients can’t things are going on board with the tions on routing decisions and pos- depart on schedule. boat and crew. Information on sible course changes. The bottom line of all of the how the boat is running and how discussion so far is that compre- the crew is doing is also valuable to A long conversation hensive preparation involving the router. The best routing engagements the router will allow the routing For example, if a piece of equip- can be looked at as a long con- service to be much more valuable. ment has failed and will impact versation, beginning well ahead Consider your router part of your the performance of the boat, this is of departure during the planning crew, and know that there is no critical information for the router phase, getting more intense around such thing as providing too much to have. Also, if a crewmember the time of departure and continu- information. becomes ill or is injured, this ing through the passage. As departure nears and the may limit the ability to make sail Keeping with the idea of a con- router provides detailed forecasts changes or accomplish other tasks versation, when choosing a router and recommendations, clients on board and, again, the router it is best to find someone with should feel free to ask questions. If needs to be aware of this. Essen- whom the communication process the forecast is less than ideal, the tially, any changes in the status of seems comfortable. The router router may recommend a delay the boat or the crew will effectively becomes a de facto crewmember in departure or a change in the change the limits of conditions for the duration of the passage, itinerary or route, but it is per- that were determined prior to and it is helpful to use some of the fectly acceptable for the client to departure. These issues could lead same criteria that would be used float ideas that the router may not the router to suggest a change in for crew selection when choosing have brought up. After all, it is the route, a different (or intermediate) a router. skipper and their crew that have destination or even a return to the The use of a weather routing to make the final call on what to departure port. service can be enormously helpful do, and they also have the firmest It is important to understand for ocean voyagers and, with the grasp of the schedule flexibility. that while, technically speaking, a right amount of time invested in Sometimes the ideas brought up router is engaged as a consultant in proper preparation, can be even by the client end up being better order to provide a specific service, more useful. In fact, the relation- options, and sometimes not — but thinking of this business engage- ship can become very personally having a conversation to explore ment as more of a personal rela- rewarding, and many yachtsmen the options allows for a greater tionship will maximize the benefits and women develop lifelong benefit from the router’s expertise. for the ocean voyager. Routers like friendships with their weather to know how their clients are feel- routers. n Regular communication ing as the voyage unfolds, whether Once the passage is underway, they are satisfied with their boat’s Contributing editor Ken McKin- regular communication is critical. performance, if they are comfort- ley is the founder and owner of Locus Every communication from the able (or not), if they are running Weather in Camden, Maine. www.oceannavigator.com SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 31 WEATHER

The dif- ference between the tropical cyclone and mid-latitude cyclone

The eye of the butterfly BY JIM AUSTIN

Courtesy NOAA

une’s arrival marked (Note that “Cape Verde” also by Saharan hot, dry air to the two significant weather applies to the independent north and warm, moist air Jperiods, the beginning island nation about 370 nm from the Gulf of Guinea to Subhead of “summer” and the June- slightly northwest of its conti- the south; the African easterly November hurricane season, nental namesake.) Historically, jet results from this north vs. both raising the possibility of Cape Verde has been associated south contrast of temperature stormy weather and the more with about 80 to 85 percent and density. important question: What of the more destructive hur- kind of storm? Nightly TV ricanes (Category 3 to 5) that Tropical waves predictions of fronts, winds strike westward to the Antilles, During hurricane season, an An example of and rain — weather typical the Gulf, Caribbean and U.S. easterly wave (EW) — undula- a mid-latitude of the mid-latitudes — are East Coast, with September to tions of low pressure within cyclone that increasingly appended by October being statistically the the trades assisted by the formed over “what the tropics are doing,” most active period. But why African easterly jet — departs the U.S. mid- with an eye kept on distur- would this African cape have westward across that 15-degree west. bances and depressions in the such an outsized influence? zone every four to seven days. Atlantic, especially the belt Imagine a rectangle, its west It has carried multiple names: between 5° N and 20° N that flank running from Florida tropical wave, tropical easterly can include tropical misbe- southeast to the Lesser Antilles, wave, African easterly wave, havior. So, let’s a look at both, crossing the North Atlantic, etc. They all refer, however, starting with the tropics. with its eastern flank not at to an elongated trough of Senegal’s Cape Verde Cape Verde but 2,500 miles low pressure, its axes oriented (Cap-Vert) is a peninsula at further east across Africa to the roughly north-northeast/south- Dakar jutting into the North Darfur Mountains and Ethio- southwest with wavelengths Atlantic at about 14.7° N by pian Highlands, their meridi- averaging some 1,000 to 17.5° W, claiming priority as onal ends linked by latitudes of 1,500 miles. Not every North the westernmost point of the about 5° N to 20° N. The trade Atlantic tropical cyclone has mainland African continent. winds flow west, prompted its start as an EW, but the fact

32 32 www.oceannavigator.com that the most destructive ones Coriolis effect; warm surface willy” in Australian waters. do again invites the question: water reaching 80° F to at least The word “cyclone” derives How is Cape Verde associated 150 to 200 feet; absence of from “cyclonic,” defining rota- with tropical cyclones? The wind sheer at high altitudes; tion — counterclockwise in answer is location. Whether increased moisture at mid- the Northern Hemisphere, the coastal peninsula or the levels in order to ignite evapo- and clockwise in the Southern offshore islands, it is the ration and convection; and so Hemisphere. If that rotation is rim of the northwest Afri- on. At 64 knots, a Category 1 about a low, it is a cyclone. can coast that serves as an on- storm has developed and, given The tropical cyclone is ramp for EWs launched not far the right conditions, it may a non-frontal homogeneous air from the Red Sea, hitching a ascend to a Category 5 at 137 mass rotating cyclonically in ride west with the trades. knots. a closed circulation around Somewhere between a low-pressure center with Cape Verde and the Antil- Zone and rotation a warm core. Its energy is les, a satellite view may show The term “tropical cyclone” primarily derived from latent evidence of a tropical distur- defines a meteorological heat stored by evaporation bance: clouds, hints of rotation storm by 1) its zone of origin/ at the surface, raised by con- about an indistinct center, development, and 2) its sense vection and released aloft by not yet symmetrical. To con- tinue on, several things have 30N to come together. Along that trough, thunderstorms can 20N form, each with their own bit of torque. Now if a couple or more get together, conserv- 10N ing and pooling their angular

momentum, their united rota- EQUATOR tion increases — like a figure 0 skater when they draw in their 50W 40W 30W 20W 10W 0 10E 20E 30E 40E 50E 60E arms to reduce the radius of rotation as their spin becomes of rotation. Its more limited condensation. This release of a blur. As the nascent circle mesoscale size distinguishes it energy further supplements tightens, more air is drawn in from the wider synoptic-scale and boosts its warm core and The jet stream and rises, and the low deepens mid-latitude cyclone storms sustains the low surface pres- over Africa with winds up to 33 knots. A that frequent the 30° N to sure. Hurricane season brings affects tropi- tropical depression develops as 60° N latitudes. The tropical attention to predictions of cal cyclone gaps in the isobars close and cyclone takes on local names track and landfall, intensity, formation. slowly tighten, lowering central in different parts of the world: duration, etc., and the “spa- pressure as increasing winds In the North Atlantic, east- ghetti tracks” that attempt to respond to the increasing pres- ern Pacific and eastern South show probabilities. The dif- sure gradient. At 34 knots, it’s Atlantic (though rare), it’s a ficulty of prediction is best told designated a tropical storm and “hurricane”; in the northwest- in this story. will be named. Many other fac- ern Pacific, it’s a “typhoon.” In Using methods developed tors are critical: adequate dis- the Indian Ocean it is called in the early 20th century by the tance away from the equator to a “cyclone,” a “baguio” in Bergen School of Meteorology have increased torque from the the Philippines, and a “willy- under Vilhelm Bjerknes and www.oceannavigator.com SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 33 WEATHER

ready to be transformed to kinetic A NOAA weather product energy when they meet one of dif- showing the predicted fering clout. Horizontally moving development of a tropical fluids wedge cold air beneath the circulation near Cape Verde warm layer, cooling its core as the on the west coast of Africa, fronts gradually occlude and quiet which later formed into down (the old adage to “lead, fol- Hurricane Irma and struck low or get out of the way” comes to Cuba, the Bahamas and the mind). This contrast is underscored southeastern U.S. by Jeffrey Rosenfeld in his 1999 book, Eye of the Storm: son Jacob, Lewis Fry Richardson pio- ously been predicting. “Tropical cyclones, driven by neered the development of numeri- Had the program simply fer- moist rising air, transfer solar energy cal weather prediction in the early reted out and built on something directly to the upper troposphere 1920s. This task, however, remained whose initial condition significance for delivery to mid-latitudes. As a daunting one until the birth of the lay somewhere in that XYZ gap heat engines, they sort out verti- computer. One day, in 1961, MIT between 0.506 and 0.506127? Was cal temperature contrasts but thrive professor Edward Lorenz was work- it that theoretical butterfly in Brazil, in warm uniformity. Extratropical ing on numerical weather predic- whose wing flaps promoted chaos cyclones, on the other hand, sort out tions, running a computer program by flying through the abbreviated the horizontal temperature contrast, to simulate weather patterns, when decimal, representing an unknown between polar and tropical air. They he decided to take a break. Having factor? Perhaps one such flap for are asymmetric and exploit the clash entered the critical data on initial the 2020 season might be appropri- of air from opposite sides of fronts.” conditions, he halted the run and ate; the past few months have raised And finally, some other terms that recorded its status at that point so predictions of a weakening El Nino are seen frequently: the post-tropical that on return he could restart with factor and the edging to La Nina, cyclone is a tropical cyclone that the same data — rather than starting neutral or slightly positive. This has left the tropics and assumed the the program over — expecting that would favor Atlantic tropical cyclone characteristics of a mid-level cyclone the computations would continue development. Could this be within (cold core, fronts, etc.); the subtropi- where they left off. Murphy’s Law, the unknown “XYZ” portion of ini- cal cyclone has attributes of both however, was looming overhead. tial conditions for 2020? tropical and mid-latitude storms, its Not long after he resumed the energy derived from both convection run, things went awry; the unex- Mid-latitude cyclones within an air mass of uniform den- pected result was chaotic. Lorenz One way to look at a tropical cyclone sity (as in the tropical cyclone) and later realized that this wasn’t due to is to compare it with a mid-latitude the energy generated by advective a mechanical glitch, but instead a (30° N to 60° N) cyclone. The “mid- colliding air masses (as in the mid- result of how the program handled dle latitudes” are where dense, dry latitude cyclone); lastly, the extra- the data he re-entered. While Lorenz polar air moving south and warm, tropical cyclone is simply the same as plugged in data that he had rounded moist tropic air moving north — air the mid-latitude cyclone term used off to three decimal places (0.506), masses with differing densities (tem- in this article. n the computer had calculated that perature, moisture content, etc.) — same data at six decimal places meet at their fronts. These masses, Jim Austin, a Naval Academy grad- (0.506127). This resulted in an essentially moving horizontally uate who served on a USN destroyer entirely different weather pattern (advection), carry potential energy and cruiser, is a freelance writer and from what the program had previ- by virtue of their density gradient, retired physician in Burlington, Vt.

34 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com VOYAGING tips

Securing for sea BY DICK STEVENSON ttaching gear to lifelines can be especially problematic are far from unheard of and Aand stanchions is gener- if the core is balsa. statistically likely with enough ally not wise and sometimes Pushpits are likely to be miles under your keel. dangerous. This gear includes better attached to the deck, but is not limited to solar and often are constructed Danger to footing panels, jerry cans, kayaks and of tubing rather than wire. Having gear on deck can also paddle/surfboards, bicycles, It seems reasonable to have endanger your ability to work Equipment etc. This applies to boats that a horseshoe and a Lifesling the boat, establish footing, mounted to will go offshore but is also attached, or perhaps a well- or move around safely and lifeline stan- applicable for all boats that designed and well-supported easily. And your deck can chions will spend any time in open water wind generator. But think become skating-rink-slippery put tremen- and do more than daysailing of the forces accrued from if your jerry can ever leaks dous stress on hops in fine weather. a full enclosure whose sup- a bit of diesel through heat the stanchions At the least problematic, port comes from the pushpit expansion in the sun or oth- should the but perhaps the most insidi- structure. Imagine further, erwise. boat encoun- ous, are your stanchions and the forces beating to wind in The more dramatic ter any board- lifelines. Stanchion deck a swell or sideways wind cou- examples of the folly of hav- ing waves. fittings are typically not pled with big waves. These ing “stuff” attached to life- designed or installed to toler- are unusual events, but they lines and stanchions occurs ate the rhythmic back-and- forth tugging and stresses of heavy jerry cans pulling on them with every wave, for example, or the rhyth- mic continuous pounding inflicted when sailing hard to wind. These repeated stresses can lead to leaks in the stanchion bases (if this occurs, look to whether there has been gear attached) or stress fractures (look at the welds down low). What’s more dangerous is if the leak does not become apparent below decks, since at least then there would be warning. Leaks into your deck core, however, may be hidden; this Wayne Canning www.oceannavigator.com SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 35 VOYAGING tips

when your boat falls off a wave or the most leverage on the lifeline/ gets slammed by the occasional stanchion combination. No life- rogue wave. These forces can be line/stanchion system is designed enormous and are hard to imagine for these kinds of forces, and ahead of time. But, for those who few attachments to the deck will have never been in a sailboat that endure these forces. You should has fallen off of a wave or gotten feel lucky if all that happens is a slammed by big one, think: an leak to the interior; far more prob- enormous blow, one that takes lematic are the caulking/bedding your breath away and causes you failures that allow water intrusion to worry about your fillings. These into a core material. The worst case events are no longer the rhyth- of this would be with balsa, which mic wave events that the ocean is will wick the water quickly and

Split Lead SSB Antenna Gear on deck like this should be Wayne Canning secured prior to

N M going offshore. M No need for backstay insulators M Easy installation always subjecting us to, but rather profusely. This can go unnoticed M No swaging, no cutting shock loads. And these shock loads for long periods, only becoming M Tough, water- Communications increase impressively with the apparent once much damage has proof, reusable expert Gordon West M Highly conduc- reports amount of surface area involved. occurred. tive RF elements “I have done Jerry cans, with their weight, are The most dramatic and M Watertight lead- numerous SSB ham wire to antenna and marine radio hard on stanchions/lifelines for the potentially damaging scenario connection checks with this rhythmic loads induced but actu- is a knockdown or a rollover. A M Stiff 34’ system and have LDPE housing found no discernible ally present a fairly small surface knockdown will likely not cause secures firmly to signal losses, even backstay wire when used with area. exterior damage to a well-arranged a well-grounded Instead, it is the paddleboards offshore boat. Add gear to the backstay aboard a steel-hulled vessel. and kayaks that really excel in pre- lifelines and stanchions, however, GAM Electronics, Inc. The antenna...can PO Box 305 senting a large target for waves or and you are looking at the pos- bang out a signal Harrison, ME 04040 the forces of water slamming into Phone: (207) 583-4670 just as though it sibility of significant damage. Bent were suspended in the boat when falling off a wave. stanchions are probably a given, www.gamelectronicsinc.com mid-air.” [email protected] – Sail Magazine Most susceptible to causing dam- but holes from stanchion bases age are solar panels, which are usu- that have been loosened or pulled ally mounted high on the lifelines/ out are possible and downflooding stanchions and subsequently exert could occur.

36 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com Stresses in a rollover you put enough miles under your from potential damage to the boat Often, little on deck will survive keel — the statistically inevitable and for ensuring safe operation. n a rollover. The forces are just too happens. I would suggest rethink- great. The greatest danger is to ing all gear attached to lifelines and Dick Stevenson and his wife, Gin- one’s life raft, and too many — stanchions (or stern pushpits and ger, voyage aboard their Valiant 42, perhaps even a majority — of the handrails) so as to free these areas Alchemy. installations are far too flimsy. On- deck raft installations should be mounted with through-deck bolts and backing plates, not screwed to the deck. My raft is in a valise in a cockpit locker, protected from rollovers and the elements, and handy at the working end of the boat when needed — no need to go forward. I know of boats surviv- ing a rollover only to find every- thing gone, including the wooden grab rails that had been used to tie down gear, leaving only the bolts protruding. The damage to the boat is what was focused on above, but in the boisterous conditions where the aforementioned events often occur, danger to the crew is a very real and scary possibility. When things are tumultuous, one wants to hun- ker down and not worry about the boat. Lifelines, and the stanchions that support them, are designed for crew safety — not as convenient tie-off points. If in doubt, please check with naval architects and/or boatbuilders. Bottom line, I consider gear stored attached to lifelines to be a safety issue to the boat as well as to the crew. Many with gear on deck will go years without mishap. But, like so many decisions regard- ing safety on the boat, it is best to plan for a scenario that keeps you and your vessel safe for when — if www.oceannavigator.com SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 20120 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 37 Refuges for Resetting dealing with Schengen Area the clock requirements in Gibraltar and Morocco Story and photos by Laurie Thyrre

wo issues of particular days. The EU VAT and duty For yachtsmen, this requires concern to the non- requirements state that a non- some creative planning in terms TEuropean yachtsman EU vessel must leave the EU of where to spend time outside arriving from the Americas area for at least one day out of of the area in order to remain are the Schengen Agreement, 18 months in order to avoid in compliance with the law which affects the immigration paying VAT. while inside the area (see side- status of the foreign traveler, Many European countries bar for breakdown of member and the European Union belong to either the Schengen countries). (EU) regulations that affect Agreement or the EU, or both. For U.S. vessels that begin the value-added tax (VAT) The now-infamous Brexit deal their migration across the and duty requirements of the may affect American yachts- Atlantic with a clean Schengen non-EU documented vessel. men more than one may think, clock, where they arrive will Let’s look at the Schengen as U.K. citizens who were pre- have an impact on their travel Agreement first. viously free to spend as much plans. For some, arriving in Established in 1985, the time in any European country the north initially alleviates Schengen Agreement — due to their membership in the this issue, in that the Channel named after Schengen, Lux- EU may now have to spend Islands and the entire U.K. embourg — effectively elimi- time outside of the Schengen (Scotland, England, Northern nated the borders between 26 Area like the rest of us. What Ireland and Wales) are all non- member countries, allowing this will do to available dockage Schengen areas and one can member citizens the freedom in non-Schengen countries is remain in this region largely to travel between member anyone’s guess. This is tricky, as without restrictions. Most of countries without border the entire Baltic region — with the actual European continent controls. Citizens of non- the exception of Russia and is Schengen, however, and Schengen countries may only most countries in the Mediter- where one travels next will travel within the Schengen ranean region — are members have to be carefully planned. Area for 90 out of every 180 of the Schengen Agreement. Yachtsmen with citizenships

38 www.oceannavigator.com ever since the Spanish ceded owner- “Rock” for both the views that it ship of Gibraltar to the British in the afforded and the exercise it offered. In 18th century. What is not contested, addition to being a wonderful place however, is the value of the prime to hike, visitors will be enchanted by real estate known as the Rock of the famed Barbary macaque monkeys Gibraltar: a small area teeming with still in residence and closely guarded history, culture, diversity — and by park wardens. The monkeys — dockage. descendants of ancestors originally Captured by the British from from Morocco’s Rif and Atlas moun- Spain in 1704, and once inhabited tains — are the only population of by Neanderthals for thousands of wild monkeys on the European con- years, Gibraltar has a rich history tinent, giving further credence to our dating back 6 million years. Yachts earlier myth about Hercules. During arriving here will have a choice our visit, we were warned that crea- between a possible three marinas on tures have been aggressive toward this very small, three-square-mile visitors and, as with most wildlife, it area. But lest you think you have is probably best to keep them wary of no worries at all, consider this: One humans. The baby monkeys, how- of those marinas is undergoing a ever, enjoyed jumping on and play- remodel beginning in April and con- ing with our 9-year-old son and were from America or Canada who are tinuing until next January, if all goes simply the cutest and most endearing making their passage to the Mediter- well, further restricting the already creatures we’ve seen. ranean will have a choice of Morocco very limited dockage available. After visiting the monkeys, take or Gibraltar for initial non-Schengen If you are fortunate enough to a trip through the enchanting St. ports. Though separated by less than find space in Gibraltar, you will Michael’s Cave: Once considered 30 nautical miles of water, there have no shortage of entertainment by the Greeks to be a gate to the could be no greater chasm of dis- to occupy your time while await- underworld, the cave system is now tance between these two locales in ing entry into the Med. During our home to a stunning collection of terms of diversity. short three-day visit last month, we stalagmites. And, no trip to Gibraltar enjoyed the beautiful and iconic would be complete without visiting Gibraltar Legends differ, but our tour guide shared his version that says Hercules broke apart the mountain connect- ing Europe to Africa, in its wake leaving behind the roughly 8-by-30- nm stretch of water that we know as the Strait of Gibraltar. Yachtsmen and containerships alike traverse this incredibly busy waterway, the territo- rial control of which has been hotly contested for more than 300 years,

Right, Laurie and Alec Thyrre’s Nordhavn 64, Gratitude, at Crookhaven, Ireland. Above left, the harbor at Gibraltar.

www.oceannavigator.com SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 39 the famed Great Siege Tunnels, a Morocco magnificent collection of tunnels Across the Strait of Gibraltar, you dug out by the British in the late will find three equally impressive 18th century when under siege from — if not nearly as full — marinas the French and Spanish. The Span- offering a wide assortment of cruis- ish, gambling that the British were ing choices for yachtsmen either too busy with the pesky American arriving from or heading to the Revolution to properly defend it, laid Americas. One such marina is in the final attack on Gibraltar in 1782. Tangier, centrally located between After the siege, work on the tunnels the three possibilities and a mere 30 Jack Thyrre and a new friend share a carrot continued to create a nearly 4,000- miles from the marina in Gibraltar. in Gibraltar. foot network. Currently housing 1,400 slips in two basins, the marina offers options for the transiting yachtsman. While plans are in place to convert most The Schengen Area and other European organizations of the Med-moorage slips to finger While the European European countries that the Netherlands and pontoons, there is ample dockage Union is probably the are members of the EU Luxembourg); the Cen- available. most widely known but not signees to the tral Europe Free Trade Additional destinations include multination organiza- Schengen Agreement. Agreement; the Visegrad Rabat, an hourlong ride on the fast tion in Europe, there are Likewise, there are some Group (Czech Republic, train from Tangier, and Tetouan other groupings of Euro- Schengen Area countries Hungary, Poland and further into the Med. Despite the pean countries formed that are not wonderful location and ease of EU-Yes Schengen-Yes finding dockage heading in either to advance the common EU member EU-No Schengen-Yes EU-Yes Schengen-No economic and cultural states (see direction, American yachtsmen goals of the member accompany- ICELAND don’t typically choose Morocco as a states. FINLAND cruising destination. While the cul- ing illustra- NORWAY In addition to the tion). SWEDEN tural and culinary differences make this a unconventional option for an European Union is the There IRELAND U.K. POLAND Schengen Area group are several GERMANY extended stay, one must consider the

FRANCE wonderful opportunity for shorter of countries. This is internation- ROMANIA

comprised of 26 Euro- al organiza- ITALY stays. Economically priced, these SPAIN pean nations that have tions to GREECE marinas offer a chance to slip back in abolished border control which Euro- time to another era and experience a measures, such as border pean nations can belong, Slovakia); the Baltic cultural diversity not found in most posts and passports, and many nations belong Assembly; the Organiza- of Europe. at borders with fellow to more than one group. tion of the Black Sea Wherever your cruising plans take member countries. The Some of these organiza- Economic Cooperation; you after crossing the Atlantic, there result is an area that tions are: the European GUAM Organization for is no shortage of experiences awaiting generally is considered Economic Area; the Euro- Democracy and Economic you on the other side. The Schengen a single jurisdiction in zone; the Council of Development (Georgia, Area issues should be no bar to mak- n terms of visa policy and Europe; the Nordic Coun- Ukraine, Azerbaijan and ing a passage to Europe. international travel. cil (Scandinavian coun- Moldova); and many There are some tries); Benelux (Belgium, others. Laurie Thyrre is a retired airline pilot who voyages with husband Alec, also a retired pilot, and son Jack.

40 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com NAVIGATION

Celestial navigation series, part 14 A celestial day at sea

Editor’s note: We’re revisit- moon sights, and multiple We’re on a long passage, so ing this series on navigating sights of various bodies dur- we’ll maintain that course by the sun, moon, planets ing one sight-taking session throughout our day at sea. and stars in the age of GPS that yields us not just an Just because we can — and because celestial nav is not LOP but multiple crossing because it opens up the only a viable backup to satel- LOPs, and thus a fix posi- plot a bit — we’ll say that A hypothetical lite navigation, but it is also tion. we’re maintaining a speed day at sea for a skill that ocean voyagers Now, that we have all of of 7 knots throughout (hull the enthusi- should have in their toolkit. these arrows in our celestial speed for a boat with 50 astic celestial In this series, we’ll cover all quiver, how do we use them feet of waterline is about navigator: sun the basic knowledge you’ll on a passage? If we were to 9.5 knots, so this isn’t out- LOPs, sun run- require to get up to speed on shut off our GPS and navi- rageous). In this case, we’ll ning fixes and this elegant and rewarding gate an ocean passage whol- label our plot in local time. a noon latitude technique for finding your ly by celestial, what might a Let’s also assume we have all bookended

way at sea. SATURN day at sea look like? Let’s good observing conditions with pinwheels 0530 In this examine what a with no rain, clouds or of star, planet ANTARES install- 0530 navigator fog. That’s the best case for and moon 0530 FIX ment, C120 making a series of sextant sights at morn- S7 we’ll 0830 EP 0930–1210 sights, and it does hap- ing and eve-

0830 SUN SPICA explore 0930 SUN pen at sea. Although, it’s ning twilight. 0530 0830 SUN the 0930 EP C120 1040 also possible to be S7 1040 celestial 1530 SUN dogged by the navigator’s C120 celestial 1040 R/FIX

S7 1650

SUN 0930

SUN 1210 day at sea as he or 0830–1040 R/FIX SUN C120 1210 SUN 1210 she uses various types of S7 SUN 1420 sights during the course of 1420 1420 EP

1530 EP ARCTURUS 2045 the day. C120 VENUS 2045 S7

n our previous install- might MOON C120 2045 Iments in this series, we’ve do during S7 2045 FIX looked at the various types the course of a full CAPELLA C120 2045 of celestial bodies and how day at sea. 1530–1650 SUN S7 we shoot and reduce them In this case, let’s put for any lines of position ourselves aboard a sailboat (LOP): everything from with a 50-foot waterline naviga- the basic sun sight to star on a course of 120° True. tion curse: sights, planet sights and We’ll call our boat Pegasus. clear skies all day, and

www.oceannavigator.com SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 41 NAVIGATION

Recall that Vol. 1 gives us Afterward, we go to the SATURN 0530 seven possible stars that nav station and do the sight will be visible at our loca- reductions. In our hypothet- ANTARES tion. If you want to shoot ical case, let’s say we only got 0530 0530 FIX fewer, the table marks three sights of three bodies: Sat- C120 of those stars that are the urn, Spica and Antares. We S7 0830 EP best to use based on the plot the LOPs from those 0830 cut of their LOPs. Another sights and the point where SPICA 0830 0530 SUN option would be they all cross is to precalculate When the hori- our position. In using the Rude this case, three Star Finder. zon appears in sights formed then just as the time comes This method a small triangle for evening or morning also allows you the east, we or “cocked hat” twilight and star and planet to determine if start shooting instead of a sights, the sky clouds over the planets and single crossing moon will be and we work point for all visible. Or, there our way around three LOPs. We are computer place our fix in 0930 programs and to the western the center of SUN 0930 EP C120 smartphone/ the triangle and 1040 horizon where S7 1040 tablet apps that begin a new we can use to the sky will dead reckoning C120 precalculate the stay dark the plot. We label

1040 R/FIX S7 stars available it “C120” on

0930 SUN 0830–1040 for morning longest. top and “S7”

SUN twilight. We can on the bottom. also calculate the time of morning twilight. LOP of the sun With our trusty list of We continue our DR plot available stars and plan- until, a few hours after sun- Top, a morn- only to clear again once the ets, we go on deck shortly rise, the sun is more than ing twilight fix sight-taking window has before morning twilight 10° above the horizon and followed by an closed! and get ready. We convince we decide to get an LOP of early sun line one of our Pegasus crew- the sun. We shoot the sun and EP. Above, a Morning twilight members to be the assistant and plot our LOP, label- sun line at 0930 We would prepare for our and record sextant angles ing it “Sun” and “0830.” gives us a north/ day at sea aboard Pegasus and sight times. When the Since it is summertime in south LOP, and before the day begins. The horizon appears in the east, the Northern Hemisphere, we advance that night before, we use Vol. 1 we start shooting, working the sun rises north of east to get a running of HO 249 to precalculate our way around to the west and sets north of west. fix at 1040. which stars will be avail- where the sky will stay dark We can use this fact to get able at morning twilight. the longest. plenty of sun sights over the

42 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com 0930–1210 longitude, telling us where we shoot the sun and then SUN we are in an east/west sense. do the simple LAN calcu- Again, our DR and the LOP lation to get an LOP that don’t agree. Now it seems tells us our latitude. We can

C120 we are not making as good also advance our 0930 sun S7 time as we thought. Perhaps line and get a running fix. 1210 R/FIX SUN we’ve sailed into a contrary Again, we start a new DR C120 1210 current. So, we establish track. 1210 S7 another EP and start our At 1420, two hours after DR track anew. LAN, we get another sun line when the sun bears A running fix 210°. Note that this bearing course of the day. About an hour later at 1040, of the sun is our course line, We compare our 0830 we take another sun sight plus 90°. The LOP is paral- DR position and the 0830 and this time instead of lel to our DR track. If we LOP. The LOP suggests we making an EP, we advance were right on our plotted our 0830 LOP to our 1040 DR track, the LOP would C120 DR position. line up with S7 We label this The LOP sug- the track, but LOP “Sun,” here we notice SUN 1420 1420 with a time of gests we are the LOP is 1420 EP 0830-1040, so a little further displaced a few we know this miles to the is an advanced down our track southwest. We LOP. Where than our DR are a bit to the this advanced right of track. Top, a noon are a little further down our LOP crosses tells us. Maybe We start a new sight gives us track than our DR tells us. our current DR track from our latitude, Maybe we’re sailing a little 1040 LOP we’re sailing the EP. and we also faster then 7 knots, or we’re is our 1040 a little faster At 1530, we advance our being assisted by a current. running fix. get another sun 0930 LOP to Since we want to integrate Again, we start than 7 knots, line and EP get a running the DR with the LOP, we a new DR or we’re being and start our fix with a 90° establish an estimated posi- track. DR track anew. cut. Above, a tion on the LOP and label it As local assisted by a This is like sun sight when “0830 EP.” apparent current. clockwork to us the sun bears An hour later, the sun noon (LAN) now. to the south- bears due east, so we grab approaches, west gives us another sight. When we plot we use the meridian passage The final LOP an LOP parallel that LOP, because the sun info in the Nautical Alma- At 1650 the sun bears due to our DR track was due east at 90° the LOP nac to determine the time west, or 270°. We get an and a new EP. forms a vertical line on our of LAN — in this case, let’s LOP that, again, like our plotting. It’s like a line of say it is 1210. At that time, 0930 LOP of the morning www.oceannavigator.com SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 43 NAVIGATION

with the sun. We’ve gotten a lot of work, in fact, once SUN 1530 seven LOPs from the sun, you’ve practiced your sight

1650 which have given us regular reductions a bit, the process

SUN updates on our goes surpris- position dur- ingly fast using ing the day. You’ll also just a pencil SUN and paper. It’s 1420 1530 EP become C120 Evening also possible S7 twilight attuned to to take your Our last bit sights and use of sextant the incredible a calculator, C120 work aboard laptop program S7 Pegasus is at light show in or smartphone/ evening twi- tablet app to 1530–1650 the sky, as the

SUN light. Again, do your sight we’ve precalcu- motions of all reductions lated the time — although of evening these celestial regular practice twilight and bodies become makes doing the celestial them by hand bodies that an integral part on paper sec- ARCTURUS will be avail- ond nature and 2045 able for us to of your voyag- incredibly sat- VENUS 2045 shoot. We are ing experience. isfying. MOON lucky because This process 2045 we get four can be repeat- 2045 FIX good LOPs from Venus, ed every day of your passage CAPELLA the moon, Capella and Arc- and you can cross oceans C120 2045 turus. We plot the LOPs with your sextant, watch, S7 and get an excellent fix from almanac and sight reduc- the multiple bodies. We tion tables. Not only will know exactly where we are. you know your position, And, as we’ve done before, you’ll get a great feeling of we make use of this great self-sufficiency, involvement fresh information to start a and independence by using Top, an afternoon when the sun was bearing new DR track that will take celestial. You’ll also become sun sight and a 090°, is like a longitude line us through the night. attuned to the incredible later one gives us that helps show us where we light show in the sky, as the a shallow running are east/west. We can also Practice makes perfect motions of all these celestial fix. Above, finish- advance our 1530 LOP and That’s an example of a celes- bodies become an integral ing with a four- get a running fix. This is our tial navigator’s day at sea. part of your voyaging expe- body pinwheel fix. last sextant work of the day While this may seem like rience. n

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www.oceannavigator.comPhoto: © Jeff Yonover MAY/JUNE 2020 OCEAN NAVIGATOR 47 Nav Problem

What’s a son supposed to do?

BY DAVID BERSON Editor’s note: This nav problem a father who had shaped his When Ballestero finally is based on reporting on Juan son’s love of the sea, from arrived at his home port of Manuel Ballestero’s voyage by fishing off Patagonia to sail- Mar del Plata on June 17, he Daniel Politi in The New ing over many of the world’s received a hero’s welcome. He York Times. Ballestero’s thought oceans — a call wasn’t took a test for COVID-19, process is David Berson’s own enough. There was always his which returned negative 72 speculation. boat, Skua. Why not sail back hours later, and he was allowed to Argentina? With a 24-foot onto Argentine soil. He missed uan Manuel Ballestero, waterline, Skua wasn’t going to his father’s birthday, but they Ja 47-year-old sailor, had go much faster than 6 knots; did celebrate Father’s Day. a problem. He was aboard Ballestero figured he would With no information his Ohlson need about 75 days of provi- about his navigation skills, 29 sailboat, sions (it took 85 days). let’s assume Ballestero used Skua, on the To add to the uncertainty, celestial nav. Let’s also assume small island Ballestero was informed by Ballestero took noon shots to of Porto Portuguese authorities that confirm his latitude. From a Santo off he might not be allowed to noon line of position, an EP the coast of return should he run into can be calculated that can be Portugal but trouble. Ballestero had sailed compared to a GPS position, he wanted many miles on his boat from if needed. to get home Sri Lanka to Alaska, and he On May 16, Skua is at a to Argentina knew he was up to the task. DR of 23° 25’ S by 45° 15’ to celebrate Provisioned with extra fuel, W. The height of eye is 19 feet his father’s water, tuna fish, fruit and rice, and there is no index error on upcoming Ballestero departed the island the sextant. We will be observ- 90th birthday. Ordinarily, of Porto Santo in mid-March. ing the sun’s lower limb. The Juan Manuel Ballestero would have secured In early April, he was Hs is 47° 05’. n Ballestero his boat, hopped on a plane approaching the Cape Verde sailed an and been with his father. Islands at about 16° N, but A. What is time of LAN in Ohlson 29 As a result of COVID-19, customs refused him permis- GMT? named Skua however, all flights departing sion to enter. A very harsh B. What is the Ho? on his voyage Portugal to Argentina were decision, but Ballestero was C. What is noon latitude? from Portugal canceled. So, what was he determined and decided to D. Calculate EP from the plot. to Argentina. to do? He could have called carry on. He would have to be

his father and sent his best mindful of his supplies, but he Answers

wishes, but his father was the wasn’t going to be thwarted. DR as same essentially is EP D.

man who had captained fish- He struggled with his loneli- S 25’ 23° is Latitude C.

ing boats and taken Juan, as ness but was quoted as saying, 17’ 47° is Ho B. a 3-year-old, out on a boat “This voyage gave me lots of 14:57 is LAN

for the first time. This was humility.” A.

48 OCEAN NAVIGATOR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 www.oceannavigator.com

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