fW«» ^jss 3lBl 1 The University Library Leeds LEEDS UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Classmark: cmnti A m 3 0106 01 k -i mo Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015 https://archive.org/details/b21527325 ©IH1AIRDLIIS lilitl PRAM ©ATT ElLILDr I.ATK MAOTjtE D 'HOTEI. TOBIB-MATESST THE Q' EKN, AMI CHIKT TO VJI F ItHFOJUi . Jil nil'; COOK’S GUIDE, AND HOUSEKEEPER’S & BUTLER’S ASSISTANT A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON ENGLISH AND FOREIGN COOKERY IN ALL ITS BRANCHES; CONTAINING I'LAI.V instructions for pickling and preserving vegetables * F IIUII’S, GAME, &c.; CIjc Curing of gRrmH aixtr 38 won; THE ART OF CONFECTIONERY AND ICE-MAICING, AND TIIE ARRANGEMENT OF DESSERTS. WITH VALUABLE DIRECTIONS FOR THE PREPARATION OF PROPER D.ET FOR INVALIDS <* ; ALSO FOR A VARIETY OF WIRE-CUPS A.VD AMERICAN EPICUREAN SAT ID? DRINKS, AND SUMMER BEVERAGES. liY CHARLES ELM£ FRANCATELLI CI= ^ ^ T<> CMTl^ N’D Vi'aIt RE ™* “F°B “ KI-‘ AND ^Clll eF^COOK^^O HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN. AUTHOR OF "THE MODERN COOK." W.TH BPVTAffiBU OF FOMTY ITLlMUi ;tkation 3. FIFT Y-SECOND TIIO USA X D. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY & SON, NEW BURLINGTON STREET IPuMisbrns in ©rtnnnrji (a |C?cr fEIajrstq tfjc ©ucrn. 1880 . S. 1144.53, P R EFACE. In writing the present Work, I Lave been actuated principally by a desire to comply with numerous appli- cations from ladies and gentlemen with whom I have the honour of being acquainted,—to the effect that I should write another Book on Cookery of a less com- plicated character, and consequently upon a more econo- mical system, than my “ Modern Cook.” Encouraged by their assurances of success, I have brought all my experience and energy to bear on the undertaking, and trust that my endeavour’s will meet with a renewal of tho favour so readily and constantly warded to my first Work, to which I beg respectfully to refer all my Readers who may feel desirous of bo coming more intimately acquainted with tho study of Classical Cookery. It is generally believed, that in order to writo efficiently upon any given subject, a thorough know- ledge of that subject is essential—and no doubt this idea is conscientiously acted upon in most cases ; but there is little need of argument on my pari to show IV ritEFACE. beyond a doubt that too many who have presumed to write upon the Art and Science of Cookery are very far from possessing any real and adequate knowledge of the art and science they so recklessly attempt to teach. There does not, in fact, exist a sound practical work on Cookery adapted to the general requirements of the Middle Classes whose incomes range between a few hundreds and thousands per annum ; and in proof of this assertion, I need quote only a few instances out of very many of the ignorance and incapacity manifested in Treatises on the subject which have had a laige share of public patronage. Thus, in the “ The Modem Housewife,” at page 122, you are instructed to make green-pea soup with milk ! In a book professing to teach how to cook rabbits, you are taught the indis- criminate use of wine, lemon, vinegar, butter, garlic, spices, and cayenno pepper in sufficient quantities to produce considerable evil to the digestive organs; while in another work you are directed how to cook oysters in a variety of ways capable only of rendering that delicious article of food perfectly unpalatable as well as indigestible. At page 72 of “ Modern Domestic Cookery,” we are told that gravy soup is to be flavoured with walnut catsup! —at page 74, ox-cheek soup is directed to be rendered delectable with walnut catsup, Uhili vinegar, and brandy ! — at pago 90, wo are told that in order to procure turtle soup in greatest per- fection, it must be seasoned with curry powder! — at page 95, we are informed that sorrel must be used in FltEFACE. making green-pea soup ! Tlio use of sorrel in this case would tend to produce pea soup both yellow and sour, but certainly neither green nor sweet, two character- istics indispensable to the production of good green-pea but let these specimens of the style of cookery soup ; contained in this book suffice to show that the profes- sional gentleman, who we are assured in the Preface presided over the last revision of “Modem Domestic Cookery” has not succeeded in establishing his claims to be considered a professed cook. Such luminous information as this is to be met with throughout the pages of all similar works on Cookery, which have evidently not been written by cooks, or by persons in any degree qualified to write on the subject. In the composition of this Work, I have been con- stantly stimulated by a desire to produce an accurate Guide to the Study of Cookery in all its branches, embracing correct and practical methods for preserving Meats, Yegetables, Fruits, &c.—the curing of Hams and Bacon—and the preparation of good and wholesome Pickles. This Work contains also the Art of Con- fectionary in all its particulars; the most recent im- provements in the preparation of Jams and Jellies, Compotes, Dessert Cakes and Bon-bons, Water and Cream Ices, Summer Drinks, &c. It contains also co- pious Eecipes for making Wine and other kinds of Cups; a variety of Salads and Appetisers, American Drinks and Granitos, which will be found of material use to Butlers, by enabling them to perform certain portions vi PREFACE. of their duties with greater satisfaction to their em- ployers. And with a view to the comforts of Invalids and Children, heroin will he found ample instructions for the judicious preparation of light, wholesome, and nutritious food ; also a variety of Medicinal Drinks, the composition of which has been approved of by a celebrated chemist, Mr. Savory, of New Bond Street. To render the Work as complete as possible, I have added a series of Bills of Fare for every Month of the Year, in English and French —and a most copious Index. C. E. FEANCATELLL Boyne Terrace, ting Hill Not , London. — ILLUSTRATIONS TO FRANCATELLI’S COOK’S GUIDE. Ho. of Recipe. Pc.gr Portrait of the Author Frontispiece. Turbot ... ... 191 66 Salmon ... • • • ... 200 69 Trout ... ... ... ... ... 210 74 ! Pulled Bread • •• • • • • •• 332 114 — Prawns Ml • • • • • t 349 — Grilled Kippered Salmon ... • • • • • • ... 339 — Oysters ... • • • • • • 347 ... ... — Pickled Salmon • • • • • • ... 345 ... — Sardines • • • • •• ... 342 Pats of Butter ... • •• ... 689 130 — Radishes ... • • • 367 ... ... — Olives • I • ... 350 Gherkins ... ... 966 — Tunny ... 341 — Anchovies ... ... 343 — Leg of Mutton • •• 411 145 Haunch of ditto . • • 424 151 Saddle of ditto • •• • • • 425 152 Ham glazed with Spinach ... ... • • . 450 164 Roast Turkey • •• 464 173 Capon & la Rggcnce ... ... ... ... 471 176 . VIX1 ILLUSTRATIONS. No. of Recipe. Pago Chickens and Tongue 1 la Mace'doine 479 198 Vol-au-vent h la Financihre 518 197 Patd-Chaud of Pigeons 1 la Financifere 519 199 Timbale of Macaroni 520 200 Border of Rice a, la Reine ... ... • • • 521 201 Mazarine of Salmon ... • • i 522 202 Chartreuse of Partridges ... ... • • • 523 203 Croustade of Larks ... ... ... 524 204 Tourte of Godiveau ... 525 205 Lamb Cutlets h la Duchesse ... ... • • • 612 239 Supreme of Fowls i la Royale ... • • • 615 240 Fricassee of Chickens a la Havelock . • « • 620 242 Croustade of Quenelles ... ... • » • 627 246 Nougats of Almonds ... ... ... • < • 754 313 Cornucopia ... ... ... til 754a 315 Meringues i la CrOme ... 766 322 Apple Meringues h la Portugaise . 797a 342 Apple Charlotte ... ... ... 797b 343 Mace'doine of Whole Fruits in Jelly ... • 6C • • • 849 367 Ham with Aspic Jelly ... ,,,e »< 8* • • ( • 930 3»7 l — r&ja . iii Preface . CHAPTER I. STOCKS AND SAUCES. In troduction—The Stoch-pot 8tock—White Veal—Brown Gravy— Game Stock— Economical Stock —IIow to clarify Stocks or Broths—Aspic Jelly—Economical Aspic Jelly-Brown Thickening for Sauces—White Thickening for Sauces — Extract of Game for Gravy— Brown Sauce— White Sauce— Eco- nomy of Second Stocks or Broths. Sauces—White Bechamel Cream Bechamel — Allemande — Economical White — Poi vmde Genoese—Tomata— Piquante— Italian— 1 inaticibre—Brown Caper —White Caper—Sharp—Reform— Chevreuil—Brown, Cold—Ger- man, for Boar’s Head—Maitre d Hotel — Economical M ait re d Ho- Melted tel — Ravigotc — Robert— I’oulette — Mnyonaisc—Tartar— Butter or Butter—Lobster—Shrimp— Muscle-— White Oyster Brown Oyster— Egg— Port-Wine, for Wild howl—Venison — Pars- ley— Anchovy—A pple — G reen Gooseberry— Fennel—M ustard Brown Butter—Onion— Bretonne — Green Ravigote — Soubise — Neapolitan— Bourguignotte—Poor-man’s — Cardinal— Richelieu Shalot—Trudle —M ushroom— I’erigueux — Salmis— Provenyale Bread— Fried Bread-crumbs—Spinach Greening— Indian Sauce— Fine-herbs Sauce— D’Uxellcs Sauce—Brown Colouring—Chateau- briand— Horseradish— Dutch—Clear Tarragon— Prince of Wales —Cazanova— Devil’s — Ham — Curry — Brown Matelote — VV bite Matelote — Aurora — Strngotto — Lyonnai-e — Celery — Russian —Almond Cream— Plum—Cherry — Raspberry -- Arrowroot — Wine, for Pudding—Whip —Orange i ——— X CONTENTS. CHAPTER II. GARNISHES FOR ENTREES OR OTHER MADE DISHES. PAGB Macedoine of Vegetables — Jardinibrc — Reform Chips — Glazed Onions—Glazed Carrots — Cucumber Garnish — Green Peas for Garnish—Asparagus Peas, &c. Puree of Green Peas for Garnish —of Spinach—of Sprue Asparagus— of Potatoes—of Chestnuts of Carrots—of Artichokes—of Turnips—of Celery—of Sorrel— of Poultry—of Game—Patty Meats —Chipolata—Ragout —Finan- ciered—Toulouse — Milanese — Maitre-d’llotel Butter — Anchovy Butter—Lobster Butter—Epicurean Butter— Devil Mixture . 31 CHAPTER III. SOUPS IN GENERAL. Soups — J ulienne — Jardinihre — Brilnoise —Spring—Cluffonade Celery and Button-Onion —D’Esclignac—Consomme with Quenelles —Soups, Carlton-House—Mock-Turtle, clear—Mock-Turtle—Gib- let, clear—Giblet, thick—Ox-Tail— Ox-Cheek—Mulligatawney Duchess — Calf’s Tail— Calf's Feet—Grouse—Hare— Peas—Green Peas—Asparagus—Carrot, a la Cressy— Potato—Mutton Broth Scotch Broth—Hodge-Podge—Knuckle of Veal and Rice Soup Cocky-Leeky—Onion Porridge—Bonne Femme—Palestine—White Celery—Turnip—Macaroni —Vermicelli—Italian Paste — Raviolis —Lord Marcus Hill’s—Lobster—Crab—Crayfish—Prawn—Vic- toria—White, 4 la Reine—Spring Herbs — Russian, or Tschi Spanish—Provenqale, or Bouillabaisse— Vegetable Marrow—Chest- nut—German—Italian—Oyster ....