The Cosmetic Summit
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Third Quarter 2013 The CosmeticIntermountain West SocietySummit of Cosmetic Chemists Through the course of the year we have been enlightened by bits of Krissie Bak’s paper on formaldehyde: IMWSCC Board “Standardization of Analytical Techniques Used to Quantify Free Formaldehyde Concentration in Chair Cosmetics Containing Formaldehyde Releasers.” This installment discusses formaldehyde testing methods Ryan Roberts and their flaws. [email protected] [email protected] Chair Elect Part III Eric Scarborough [email protected] Methods for Formaldehyde Testing: Which Secretary Country Has It Right? Thao Le By: Krissie Bak [email protected] The traditional method for determining Figure 5 the FFA (free formaldehyde) concentration Treasurer is wet batch testing that uses derivatizing Carlos Olmos reagents. Acetylacetone, also called the Nash [email protected] reagent, remains the official European and Japanese method for quantification because Newsletter Editor it is the least destructive of the derivatizing Rachel Sabin reagents. A condensation reaction between [email protected] formaldehyde and acetylacetone in the presence of ammonium acetate form a fluorescent lutidine complex shown in 1 Assistant Editor Figure 5. This complex absorbs at 414 Aaron Peterson nm. The calibration graph plots percent [email protected] transmittance against the concentration of the standards, which gives a linear graph. The concentration of formaldehyde in a Newsletter Publisher 2 cosmetic sample is determined by comparing method requires 40º C for 30 minutes. Brianna Purinton the fluorescent intensity of the sample to the 1 Following the derivatization, the solution is [email protected] standards. quickly cooled before taking an absorbance Although this method has been the measurement. The derivative produced is European and Japanese standard since unstable and will decrease in concentration Third Quarter Sponsor: 1975, significant flaws raise questions as quickly over time so immediate absorbance to whether this method should continue measurements are needed. Neither method to be the standard. The European and allows for complete derivatization, and the 2 Japanese methods differ in the time and quick cooling causes data irreproducibility. PRINOVA 2 temperature of the derivitization. The Table 2 shows that the Japanese method European method (EEC) requires 60º gives lower FFA concentration than the CEAPRO C for 10 minutes, whereas the Japanese European method, indicating that these Table of Contents Free Chapter Free Formaldehyde p.1, 3 Course October 16th Geek is Chic p.4-5 SLC, UT Chemists Corner p.7-8 IMWSCC Spotlight p.9 Grand Seminar Patent Law 112 p.10-11 November 14th Company Spotlight p.12-13 SLC, UT TNT Meeting Agenda p.15-16 Second Quarter Meeting Synopsis p.18 Annual Scientific Meeting & Technology Showcase The Regulatory Department p.19 Dec 12-13th NYC, NY Read to Win! Somewhere in the newsletter we’ve hidden the IMWSCC favicon symbol it looks like this - . Spot it and email Ryan ([email protected]) the page number and place where it is and you’ll be entered in a drawing for a chance to win a $25 gift card at the next meeting. 2 IMWSCC 3rd Quarter 2013 Free Formaldehyde Continued: Table 2. Comparison of traditional analytical methods for calculating FFA concentration released from FA donors and water solution. Data from Tallon et al., Ref. 2. Theoretical EEC % Japan % DHN Chromotropic H2O2 % FFA % Acid % % released Formalin (37%) in 37 37 37 37 37 37 H2O Imidazolidinyl urea 23.2 9.39 9.14 7.61 12.8 9.44 Diazolidinyl urea 43.3 20.6 17.5 21.3 29.4 21.3 DMDM hydantoin 31.9 12.8 12.4 - - - two methods are not equivalent. Table 2 also compares the in solution, thus disrupting the equilibrium and producing 2 theoretical yield of FFA from a releaser with actual yield more formaldehyde. Thus, the acetylacetone method of FFA measured using different derivatizing methods. exaggerates the total FFA concentration. Theoretical FFA concentration corresponds to the number To be epically concluded in Q4. of methylol groups on a releaser. Not all formaldehyde present in the solution is converted to free anhydrous formaldehyde so the actual concentration is lower. However, 1. Wilson, Clifton. Fluorometric Determination of Formaldehyde in the acetylacetone method does not distinguish between the Cosmetic Products. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 1975, 25, 67– 72. oligomeric forms of formaldehyde. Another significant 2. Tallon, M.; Merianos, J.; Subramanian, S. Non-Destructive Method flaw of the acetylacetone method is that the method is for Determining the Actual Concentration of Free Formaldehyde sensitive to all aldehydes and will include these aldehydes in Personal Care Formulations Containing Formaldehyde Donors. J. as part of the FFA concentration in cosmetic products. Cosmet. Sci. 2009, 135, 22–32. Also, both protocols exhaust the supply of formaldehyde AMERICAN GLITTERS | FULL RANGE OF COSMETIC GLITTERS PRODUCED WITH PERMITTED, APPROVED COLORANTS NUROZ | HAIR CARE AND SKIN CARE SPECIALTY INGREDIENTS: SODIUM SALICYLATE, THICKENERS, VITAMIN E OIL, VITAMIN H AND SODIUM HYALURONATE BAYLISS RANCH | CERTIFIED ORGANIC BOTANICAL DISTILLATIONS PREMIER SPECIALTIES | FRAGRANCES, FLAVORS, EXTRACTS AND FRUIT SEEDS BLP | FUNCTIONAL AND SPECIALTY ACTIVE INGREDIENTS RML | PRESERVATIVES AND NATURAL FORMALDEHYDE-FREE HAIR STRAIGHTNER CREMER OLEO GMBH & CO KG | NATURALLY-DERIVED FATTY ACID ESTERS SASOL | SPECIALTY EMULSIFIERS, NATURALLY-DERIVED HYDROCARBONS, AHA-ESTERS, MIPA-LAURETH SULFATE CR MINERALS | PUMICE SEIDECOSA | NATURAL HYDROLYZED SILK PROTEINS CULINARY FLAVOR SOLUTIONS | CUSTOM DEVELOPED SIGNATURE FLAVORS, SOLVE TECHNOLOGY PROBLEMS SOUTHERN CLAY PRODUCTS, INC. | CLAY RHEOLOGICAL, STABILIZATION AND SUSPENDING CONTROL ADDITIVES DRACO NATURAL PRODUCTS | BIOACTIVE, FULL-SPECTRUM BOTANICALS, OFFERING CUSTOM FORMULATION AND INSIDE-OUT SOLUTIONS SYTHEON | PROPRIETARY INNOVATIVE INGREDIENTS FOR HYPERPIGMENTATION, ACNE, AGING AND SUN PROTECTION EARTH SUPPLIED PRODUCTS | ECLECTIC MIX OF ALL-NATURAL AND CERTIFIED ORGANIC INGREDIENTS UNIVAR COLOURS | NATURAL AND SYNTHETIC COLORS EMD | SPECIAL EFFECT PIGMENTS, COSMETIC ACTIVES AND SUNSCREEN INGREDIENTS WORLD MINERALS | DIAFIL & CELITE DIATOMACEOUS SILICAS FLORIDA FOODS | ALOE VERA GELS, OILS AND POWDERS, PLANT AND VEGETABLE EXTRACTS WORLEE | FILM-FORMING AGENTS: AQUEOUS ACRYLATE DISPERSIONS AND SOLUTIONS FRANK B. ROSS | NATURAL AND SYNTHETIC WAXES AND BUTTERS FUJI SILYSIA | SYNTHETICALLY PRODUCED AMORPHOUS SILICA GELS EQUIPMENT & SUPPLIES GO WILD HARVEST | ORGANIC AUSTRALIAN SUPERFRUITS, BUSH BOTANICALS AND INGREDIENTS FAWCETT | LAB & DRUM MIXERS, PUMPS (ELECTRIC & AIR DRIVEN) 3 IMWSCC 3rd Quarter 2013 [email protected] Geek Is Chic: Tales of the Sporty Geek By: Aaron Peterson It was a typical hot July day here in Utah. I invited my fanfare the past three years and can tell you all about it. good friend, Deanna Carter, to lunch so we could talk about the less apparent part of her personality—her geeky Besides reading books in the BYU law library, Deanna spent side. Deanna is a long standing IMWSCC member, long- her young years racing down the slopes of Timp Haven, term employee of Nu Skin (25 years), a sports advocate which is known today as Sundance. Deanna told me, and a lifelong geek. In the almost 10 years I have known “My Uncle Bob from San Diego sent skis on a bus to my her, our conversations have mostly been about sports. She brother Craig and me since he couldn’t stand the thought grew up participating in softball, volleyball, swimming of us living so close to such great snowy mountains and not and downhill skiing. As a mother of five, she participated taking advantage of these ideal conditions.” On a fun side in sports vicariously through her children. While I have note, she told me that sometimes she skied with Shauna known her, she has faithfully attended her son Corey’s Redford, Robert Redford’s daughter. Deanna reminisced high school golf tournaments all over the state along with about watching the original Star Trek in black and white many baseball matches. Deanna and I have played many on their family television after a fun day on the slopes. pathetic rounds of golf at the annual IMWSCC TNT Since all the episodes of Star Trek were not available in a Golf Scramble. Her Sundays are typically spent on the box set or streaming online through Net Flix, Deanna was golf course with her husband, Lynn, and her son, Corey. forced to use her imagination and a little theatrics. However, as sporty as Deanna is, she has a very geeky side A favorite of the geeks is D&D (Dungeons and Dragons) as well. That aspect of her personality began as far back which is a roleplaying game where you act out different parts into her childhood as her love of sports. of the game instead of choosing an avatar like you would Deanna was born in sunny San Diego, California. She today on World of Warcraft. As geeky as I am, I hadn’t moved with her family to the small town of Orem, Utah run into D&D until I married into a D&D family. where her father, Harry Dees, became a professor at (Feel free to look up a past Geek Is Chic article Brigham Young University. Dr. Dees set up the where Krishna Kochkendorfer interviewed BYU Law Library and Deanna spent many my father-in-law, Tracy Hickman, who is summers in that library, which explains a fantasy writer and game designer.) her bookwormish ways. Although Since D&D came up, I asked Deanna no longer practically living in a if she had ever read any of my library, she still spends much of father-in-law’s novels (Dragon her free time with her nose Lance was a big series). She in a book. One genre said she preferred sci-fi she has a particular writing over fantasy love for is sci-fi. Isaac and hadn’t read much Asimov is one of the in that particular vein. authors she read in her However, she did admit early years. Asimov is best that she loved Lord of the known for his works of science Rings, which is fantasy geek fiction and popular science books.