X-Ray Magazine L Issue 66
British Columbia Diving Canada’s Freshwater Interior Text by Barb Roy. Photos by Barb Roy, Ron Akeson and Travis Van Mol
45 X-RAY MAG : 66 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO TRAVIS VAN MOL Divers on surface of Pavilion Lake (left and below); Horses can be found grazing in the Cash Creek area (right) travel PREVIOUS PAGE: Salmon at the mouth of Adams River
Pavilion Lake On several occasions I have joined wreck-explorer and filmmaker Ron Akeson and local dive instructor Travis Van Mol to photograph and see the unusual mounds of microbialites found growing at the bottom of the lake. Peter Symes, editor-in-chief of X-RAY MAG, joined us on one of the excursions. “These unusual structures resemble large termite mounds and vary in size and shape, depending on their depth,” comments Ron. “However, it is imperative to utilize proper buoyancy control when diving here.” Because of the fragile nature of these structures, the World Heritage Site has granted Protection Status to the lake. It is believed that these single-celled BARB ROY
BARB ROY
Although British Columbia’s (BC) locations are listed on dozens of different the visibility gets much better. coastal area offers numerous websites, including a few informative You Water temperature during the Tube videos. Some I knew nothing about. summer is around 70°F at the shipwrecks, colorful walls and I have listed below several to wet your surface and 45°F at 100 feet. reefs full of life, there are also travel-hungry curiosity as well as included Winter temperatures are 40°F a considerable amount of some advice from some active divers at the surface and 32°F at 100 freshwater lakes and rivers to residing in the areas of mention. feet!” If you are driving from Vancouver, our As with most temperate explore within what is known as dive getaways usually started by meeting water destinations I have BC’s Interior Region of Canada. up in the city of Kamloops, located found wearing proper thermal Actually, you might be surprised about 310km (193 miles) northeast of protection is a must. This is at what you will find to do and Vancouver. Dale Anderson, owner of achieved by wearing a dry Ocean Pacific dive store in Kamloops suit or a very thick 6.5 to 7mm see above and below the water. and an SSI Master Instructor shared wetsuit. I can tell you first-hand, some of his general knowledge for those when I was ice-diving the On many occasions I have joined friends wanting to visit the area: lakes in Alaska, a dry suit was and dive groups to check out some of “Ocean Pacific has been here since the preferred choice when the more popular Interior destinations, about 1970, but I have been here since conducting multiple dives in but I was amazed to find many more 1993. We dive year round because the one day. sites were also available. Most of the lakes, like the ocean, cools down and
BARB ROY
46 X-RAY MAG : 66 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel BC
RON AKESON NASA astronaut Chris Hadfield talks with author Barb Roy during an interview
bacteria and algae microbialites are pick up samples from the bottom of the important in relation to the study of lake. Some of the microbialites are as big Earth’s history, which is one of the as you are and some bigger than the reasons this lake attracted the attention subs. These huge structures are growing of the U.S. National Aeronautics and at the bottom of the lake. Space Administration (NASA) and the “The things we call microbialites have Canadian Space Agency (CSA) several existed around the world and in our years back for further scientific studies oceans for billions of years and yet here (www.pavilionlake.com). YouTube also they are being formed and we can boasts some great videos about their actually see the process happening here research and discoveries during the in this lake. If we can understand the Pavilion Lake Project. microbialites on this planet then we can When I interviewed Canadian start looking for them on other planets astronaut, Chris Hadfield, who also and see whether they have had life in participated in the project, he was their history. So what seems like a small excited about his experience and innocent lake in British Columbia actually commented: becomes a window in understanding “I get asked a lot, what are we finding history in the rest of the universe. And on the bottom of the lake. Well, first off that’s why this whole team wants to try we lift these one-man subs called Deep and really understand what is going on Workers with a crane into the water from in this lake so that we can apply it to a floating platform. We blow air out of it everything else.” BARB ROY so it gently sinks into the water. Then we The lake sits within Marble Canyon Mounds of microbialites in Pavilion Lake (above); Diver Wayne use cameras and robot arms to film and Provincial Park at an elevation of 806m
Grant explores the microbialite mounds of Pavilion Lake (right) BARB ROY 47 X-RAY MAG : 66 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel BC
BARB ROY Andy Lamb, author of several dive- “We dove at the mouth of Adams related books and co-owner of Cedar River where it enters the lake. The diving Beach Bed & Breakfast on Thetis Island was from the shore and easy to do. (Vancouver Island), also took advantage Visibility was good but not spectacular. of the brilliantly red spectacle this past Swimming into the current tight at the season, commenting: mouth was challenging but offered the
BARB ROY (2,643ft). Dive access is across from the months for an after-work dive in Paul blue coloration because of the limestone small island with minimal parking. The Lake, “You can see thousands of shiner foundation and is bordered in some surrounding topside terrain resembles the fish,” he adds. areas by long white sandy beaches (east underwater scenery, including structures When not diving, this is an excellent end), giving it a tropical appearance. on the hills around the lake, hinting the lake for fishing rainbow trout! Camping is Paddling around the lake in kayaks is water level might have once been much also available, complete with swimming exceptional but the fly-fishing can be higher. Travis said the microbialites are areas for the kids and boat launching extra special, especially if you hook into also found in nearby Kelly Lake, which sites. one of the prized rainbow trout! Hiking was the focus of study in 2011 by a similar and horseback riding are also popular group of scientist from CSA and NASA. Johnson Lake around the lake during the summer Similar to Pavilion Lake, this equally clear months. Paul Lake lake rests on a limestone bed at an This picturesque lake is located in Paul elevation of about 1,117m (3,666ft) with Adams Lake/River Lake Provincial Park, 20km north of a dive depth of around 15m (50ft) or This is where Travis, Ron and I always Kamloops. When asked where and more. Fallen trees are one of the main jump in to see the hordes of returning when are the best ice-diving lakes, Travis features to see here, forming a maze to Sockeye Salmon as they bunch together replied, “February is the best time for ice swim through. During the winter months to head up the River to spawn in early diving. Our signature Valentine dive takes this is another popular lake used for ice October. Although it is a bit of a hike place at Paul Lake or Pavilion Lake and diving. to get to the lake from the parking lot, is a great event! We carve a big heart in Dale adds, “There is a cool land-slide it is easy when two trips are made. We the ice to dive through.” here and usually crystal clear water, but always brought along a large tarp to lay Travis also mentioned he will get cold.” on the sand at the water’s edge, for the together with friends during the warmer The water tends to take on a turquoise dive gear. BARB ROY THIS PAGE: Salmon run at Adams River; Diving with the salmon at Adams Lake (top right)
48 X-RAY MAG : 66 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel BC Boston Whaler, an old truck and some are in parks while most are large carp that can be up to 3ft several other items. beach access roads or regional in length. There have been reports Sheldon Boyd, owner of parks. The lake can freeze along of sturgeon in the lake and some Serpent Aquatics, located in the shoreline in places but hasn’t have washed ashore.” West Kelowna, is an avid diver in frozen over for many years. The Okanagan Valley is also Lake Okanagan adding, “There “Okanagan Lake is known for its wonderful orchards, is a lot of history around the approximately 80 miles long and vineyards and family-friendly lake and divers can find small temperatures are as low as 34°F campgrounds. I really enjoying boats, old piers, glass bottles and from December through February. visiting a farmer’s market after other artefacts around the lake. By May people are swimming my dives to indulge in one of the Divers have set boats into two in the lake, and by August the locally grown fresh apples! provincial parks—Kickinee—north temperature can be 72°F on the of Penticton and Ellison—west surface and 55°F around 60ft. Other lakes of Vernon and the largest wreck Visibility is best November through “The Upper Arrow Lakes, known and dove in the lake early December. Once the snow Kootenay Lake, Slocan Lake, melts, visibility drops during Kootenay River are all iconic the spring run-off and from for historic wrecks,” suggests there into summer ranges Travis. He wasn’t kidding; I up to 30ft depending found information on three train on the dive site. August boxcars in Slocan Lake, near through October is the best Silverton in 30-90 feet of water. months to see a lot of fish The steamer tug Ymir (1899) can in the lake as the Kokanee be found at Nelson’s waterfront Salmon start their annual park in Kootenay Lake. If diving BARB ROY spawn. This brings along a shipwrecks is your passion, then Underwater photographer Ron Akeson uses a GoPro camera attached to a pole to capture host of other fish from fry to perhaps the best place to start images of salmon in Little Shuswap Lake; Detail close-up of salmon (right inset)
best chance for photography. Shuswap Lake (Big & Little) the popularity I was very pleased to see a Full of sandy beaches and great of this lake, surprising number of other fish family fun, this is the lake Travis reservations are BARB ROY species like a few Chinook told us about where you can find recommended salmon, bull trout, rainbow trout, a number of wrecks, including for the campsites in the Shuswap is a CP Rail Car Barge many large-scale suckers, some an old model “T”. Ellison Park in Lake Provincial Park during the located in Fintry Provincial Rocky Mountain whitefish, burbot Vernon even has a dive park summer. Park. Access to Fintry (freshwater codfish) and small with some old boats and truck and Ellison is from April to sculpins.” cabs. While on the website for Lake Okanagan Thanksgiving in October. When diving here I used Copper Island Diving I counted This 780-foot deep lake near the The barge is a UASBC a regular scuba unit but my 25 different shore and boat town of Kelowna is 341m (1,000ft) archaeological site and is dive companions were diving accessible locations for diving. above sea level. I counted ten marked with a plaque. rebreathers. Observing how the Other activities to do include dive sites on Tourism Kelowna’s “The lake has a current salmon reacted to all of us, I am paddling around in kayaks or website which includes an old that generally runs from not sure they were able to get canoes, hiking one of several milk truck in 100ft at Wilson’s north to south and any closer to the fish than I did trails, cycling on specific trails Landing, small caves and rock depending on winds and while using open-circuit. Most of (helmets are mandatory in formations at Rattlesnake Island waves movement can the fish were more interested in BC), bird watching or just and two small boat wrecks in 30ft be strong and sometimes their journey up the river but a photographing the lake’s at Paul’s Tomb. On the website reversed in particular few were curious enough to swim beautiful topside scenery. of Kelowna Divers, the Otter Bay areas. There are numerous around me and get within an Windsurfing, waterskiing and Scuba Park, located in Ellison beach-accessible dive arm’s length from me. swimming are even more things Provincial Park, is mentioned, sites on both the east and to add to a sunny day. Due to where divers can find a rowboat, west sides of the lake... BARB ROY Divers at truck preparing to dive with salmon at Adams Lake
49 X-RAY MAG : 66 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel BC is another source surviving icy cold conditions with half a of updated meter of ice covering the water! information to A favorite site Travis likes is Chum join up with local Lake, in the Turtle Valley near the town groups or hire a of Chase, “The painted turtles are in no guide if needed. more than 20 feet of water, which you One note can do snorkeling. The turtles seem safe worthy of to dive with, but it can be hard to know mention is the where they are at times.” possibility of When we weren’t diving, Ron and I seeing turtles rented kayaks in Kamloops to paddle in many of out to see the white pelicans and enjoy the lakes. The the fall foliage. We also went on several western painted hikes around Adams Lake so he could turtle is the film the salmon in the river with his Go Pro most common, camera mounted on a long pole. The identified by North and South Thompson Rivers support bright yellow the largest interior wintering tundra stripes on its trumpeter swans, so that may mean a head, neck, tail return trip in the near future! There was and legs with red even a group offering a tour where you coloration on its could paddle the path of the salmon in underside shell. a canoe. These native Overall I found the region offered pond turtles plenty of diving or camping options and spend winters additional activities like horseback riding, hibernating in the paddle boarding, swimming, snorkeling, muddy lakebeds, wildlife viewing and fishing.
PHOTO COURTESY OF STEPH / OCEAN PACIFIC DIVE SHOP KAMLOOPS Ice diving in British Columbia (above); Pad- dling kayaks at sunset in Kamloops (right); Photographing pelicans in Kamloops (far right)
is with the book, Historic Shipwrecks of the West Kootenay District, published by the Underwater Archaeological Society of British Columbia, which features 13 wrecks and the 1897 City of Ainsworth wreck. No matter which lake you choose BARB ROY to explore, be sure to adjust your dive planning to the altitude and always use REFERENCES: WWW.BCREPTILES.CA a dive flag/float. While on my various HALL, WILLIAM M. DIVING BRITISH COLUMBIA: LAKES WWW.DIVEINDUSTRYBC.COM adventures exploring BC’s Interior, I found AND RIVERS WWW.LONELYPLANET.COM the book, Diving British Columbia Lakes TAYLOR, HEITH. THE BIRDER’S GUIDE WWW.SALMONSOCIETY.COM and Rivers, written by William M. Hall, UASBC HISTORIC SHIPWRECKS OF THE WEST WWW.TOURISMKELOWNA.COM very helpful. Local dive stores and clubs KOOTENAY DISTRICT BARB ROY
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