PROGRESS IN GLOBAL TRADE TALKS/2 MCCARTNEY’S NEW BAG/3 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • January 29, 2007 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear En Fleur Flowery fantasy is one of Christian Lacroix’s signatures, and even though he has toned down his extravagance of late, it’s still a great strength. And his beautiful spring couture collection, which contrasted structure with fl ou, was a highlight of a stellar season. Here, one of his lovely evening numbers. For more blossoms, see pages 6 and 7.

Bare Them No More: Legwear Sees Return To Fashion’s Forefront By Laura Klepacki he legwear industry has a heartbeat Tagain. Given up for almost dead just a few seasons ago, when the trend was for women to go bare-legged even in the freezing cold, the industry is enjoying a major revival, thanks to the popularity of leggings and tights. Only last week, Karl Lagerfeld’s couture show for Chanel was dominated by black tights under colorful dresses. And further evidence of the renaissance came at the Sundance Film Festival in snowy Park City, Utah, where young actresses such as Gwyneth Paltrow, See Putting, Page 10 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007 WWD.COM Progress Seen in Bid to Reignite Trade Talks By John Zarocostas 2001, the talks are intended to of new trade riding on the Doha lower global trade barriers and round, and cautioned there are WWDMONDAY DAVOS, Switzerland — Major give a boost to developing coun- systemic implications if the Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear industrialized and developing tries’ economies but the discus- talks failed. countries — including the U.S., sions have hit numerous road- “The world will lose its insur- FASHION the European Union, Brazil, blocks. ance policy against the spread Couture designers took a leaf out of nature’s book for spring, cultivating and India — gave the green Lamy suspended the trade of protectionism. We will see a 6 secret gardens of fl oral looks that brought a fanciful element. light here Saturday for the sus- round last July after key players, loss of confi dence in the WTO pended Doha global trade talks including the European Union system.…This is what makes an to restart. and United States, came to an imperfect deal better than no GENERAL However, it’s still uncertain impasse over cutting politically deal,” he said. Pushed to the brink a few seasons ago by the bare-leg trend, legwear is if a breakthrough deal can be sensitive agriculture subsidies Many fear the global negotia- 1 enjoying a revival, thanks to the popularity of leggings and tights. reached in the next few months. and tariffs. tions could face severe delays Stella McCartney is joining forces with LeSportsac to design a limited- Much will depend whether the Kamal Nath, India’s and even a collapse if trade edition accessories collection to be launched in spring 2008. positions of the key players con- Commerce Minister, said he ministers cannot come up with 3 verge, trade ministers and se- was optimistic the Doha Round, a framework soon because of Textile industry leaders from Japan, Europe, the U.S. and China agreed nior offi cials said. which had been frozen for seven the TPA that is set to expire at 3 to lobby their countries to realize a free trade agreement by 2011. Pascal Lamy, chief of the months, “would not go round the end of June. That authority ACCESSORIES: Young Friends of Save Venice, which restores and pro- World Trade Organization, told and round, but move toward allows the Bush administration tects Venice’s masterpieces, has enlisted creative types in the cause. reporters at the close of the an- conclusion.” to negotiate trade deals with the 8 nual World Economic Forum According to senior west- assurance that Congress will not this weekend that trade min- ern envoys, the talks are ex- amend them. EYE It is diffi cult to gauge wheth- Raquel Welch vamped it up at the Sidaction AIDS benefi t, thrusting about er Congress, now controlled by 4 and kicking up her heels as she reminisced about her fi rst trip to Paris. I think it is now more likely than not, the Democrats, will grant an ex- “ tension of the president’s trade Classifi ed Advertisements...... 21-23 though by no means certain, that we will authority, even if trade negotia- tors are able to reach a tentative To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. reach a deal within the next few months.… framework before they begin [email protected], using the individual’s name. debating an extension. There is a reignition of political energy Apparel importers and re- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT tailers saw the announcement ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 193, NO. 20. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one and drive, and an increased recognition in Davos as a positive step, but additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three were cautiously optimistic. additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by of the dire consequences of failure. “That is encouraging news, Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive but an agreement to negotiate Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human ” Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. 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If you negotiations have not restarted. “I think it is now more likely progress is being made in Doha do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615- 5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, There was a strong sense of op- than not, though by no means perhaps that will help move the OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, timism coming out of Davos and certain, that we will reach a deal debate on TPA.” BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR a strong desire for ministers to within the next few months.… Stephen Lamar, executive CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR keep working in order that we There is a reignition of politi- vice president at the American DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY could sometime in the future re- cal energy and drive, and an Apparel & Footwear Association, A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. start formal negotiations.” increased recognition of the said, “We want to see the trade The spokesman said progress dire consequences of failure,” talks gear up and conclude but re- MONDAY: New York Fall II Apparel Market (through was being made and that discus- British Prime Minister Tony starting is only part of the battle. Feb. 16). sions were ongoing at the staff Blair told WEF participants in a Finishing it up will be the issue.” level. keynote speech, shortly after the Brenda Jacobs, counsel TUESDAY: The Conference Board releases the Con- “The bottom line is that work WTO meeting. for the U.S. Association of sumer Confi dence Index for January. is being done and progress is Peter Mandelson, EU trade Importers of Textiles & Apparel, being made.” Commissioner, said there is stressed that the news was a WEDNESDAY: Tissu Premier, Lille, France (through Launched in Doha, Qatar, in hundreds of billions of dollars small step. “We need something Thursday). concrete to keep Congress inter- Pitti Filati, Florence (through Friday). ested…People have got to see It some real numbers [tariff cut- THURSDAY: Atlanta Apparel & Accessories Market ting proposals] on the table and and Americasmart Premiere (through Sunday). STRETCHES that all countries are contribut- Eclat de Mode, Premiere Classe, Who’s Next and ing,” she said. Prêt à Porter Paris, Paris (through Sunday). It is unclear what ramifi ca- tions a successful Doha round FRIDAY: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, New York could have on U.S. producers, (through Feb. 9). who are pushing for special Salon International Interfi liere, Paris (through treatment in the talks for textile Sunday). and apparel goods. Salon International de la Lingerie, Paris (through Previous negotiations in the Feb. 5). WTO led to the elimination of The U.S. Labor Department releases the January quotas on apparel and textiles employment report. in 2005, which radically altered where goods are produced and, SATURDAY: StyleMax, Chicago (through Feb. 6). to a large extent, unleashed the manufacturing power of China. SUNDAY: The JCK Invitational & Rapaport Inter national — With contributions from Diamond Conference, New York (through Feb. 6). Kristi Ellis and Evan Clark, COMING THIS WEEK CPD Düsseldorf and Body Look, Düsseldorf Washington (through Feb. 6). London Edge and London Central (through Feb. 6). ISPO, Munich (through Feb. 7). LA LAME, Leading Manufacturers of Stretch Fabrics 100% Financing presents for An Innovative New Collection of Knitted and Woven Fabrics and Trims Made in Europe, USA and Asia Purchase Orders Moldable Spacers • Microfibers • Textures • Metallics • Laces In Allovers and Galoons In Brief Deluster, Foil, Glitter, Flock, Embossed and Puff Prints on: Target all size customers Tricots,Tulles, Chiffons, Denims,Twills and Sateens Start-ups okay ● Novelty Elastic Trims: Metallics, Reflective, Ruffles, Crochets and Rhinestones EIDER TO LAUNCH KILLY: Eider, the French snowsports com- pany, has signed a 10-year agreement to market and design the Please Contact Glen Schneer,Vice President CALL US TODAY Killy snowsports brand, inspired by Olympic ski legend Jean- [email protected] • www.lalame.com Claude Killy. The new women’s and men’s lines, to be unveiled Ashford Finance at the Snowsports Industries America trade show next week, LALAME, Inc. 132 W.36th St., 11th Fl. New York, NY 10018 • Tel: 212.921.9770 • Fax: 212.302.4359 (888) 532-9036 feature more than 80 styles and will be available in selected snowsports specialty stores for the winter 2007-08 season. WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007 3 WWD.COM McCartney to Design World Textile Leaders Push 4-Way Trade Deal By Tsukasa Furukawa The conference, known as the Textile & Apparel Quad Meeting, will hold its next ses- Line for LeSportsac TOKYO — Textile industry leaders from Japan, sion in Beijing in March 2008, move to Brussels Europe, the U.S. and China said they would in 2009 and to the U.S. in 2010, with a fi fth meet- By Samantha Conti push their governments to complete a free trade ing to take place in Beijing. Stella agreement by 2011. According to a summary report, Japan ar- LONDON — Stella McCartney McCartney The two-day session here marked the fi rst gued that China, as the world’s most powerful is joining forces with time that China joined the three other markets textile and apparel producer, has the responsi- LeSportsac to design a lim- in an industry-level trade conference. bility to maintain order in world textile trade. ited-edition accessories col- Acknowledging the formidable challenge The summary emphasized the importance of lection to be launched in of reaching a trade pact in four years, Japan protecting intellectual property. spring 2008. Textile Federation vice president Masaki China called for elimination of what it char- The collection will focus Sakurai said, “It is important to initiate action acterized as discriminatory treatment toward on multipurpose travel bags, and take the fi rst step forward,” adding, “noth- that nation, stressing it will maintain a market luggage, baby accessories ing moves” if the issue is left to politicians. economy, promote trade liberalization and en- and totes for mothers with Others taking part in the conference were: hance a shift from volume to quality. China also young children. The compa- Filiep Libeert, honorary president of European said it wants to strengthen protection of intel- ny plans to make an offi cial Apparel & Textile Organization; William Lakin, lectual property rights. announcement today. director general of Euratex; Cass Johnson, Europeans noted there were 160,000 job loss- The Stella McCartney for president of the U.S.-based National Council of es in the European Union in 2005, although the Le Sportsac collection will be Textile Organizations, and a six-member dele- market improved slightly last year. They said the sold in high-end department gation from China headed by Du Yuzhou, presi- EU will compete in the apparel and textile sec- and specialty stores world- dent of the China National Textile & Apparel tor on the strength of technology and fashion, not wide. It will also be sold at Council. The Japanese federation was repre- on cost. the three Stella McCartney sented by Sakurai, Shinya Okuda, vice president The U.S. said the greatest concern is main- boutiques — here and in New and secretary general, and Akio Mera, chairman taining sound infrastructure for the textile in- York and Los Angeles — and of Japan Textile Export Organization. dustry in North America, which includes coun- the five LeSportsac stores, Libeert said some individuals might think tries involved in the North American Free Trade and will be available online. the idea of achieving free trade among Japan, Agreement, the Central American Free Trade The collection initially Europe, America and China is “naïve and ide- Agreement and Caribbean initiatives. will have 30 to 40 styles, and alistic,” but added that the plan can succeed if China’s exports of textile goods to all sources the average price of a bag will there is “vision and leadership.” in 2005 increased 20.7 percent from the previ- be $200 to $250. The deal with Sakurai said there was heated debate on ways ous year to $117.54 billion. Shipments to EU LeSportsac is for 18 months, to maintain fairness in world textile and apparel countries jumped 55.3 percent to $18.86 billion. and is renewable. trade. The important thing, he emphasized, was Exports to the U.S. soared 66.1 percent to $19.58 “LeSportsac has a strong that the meeting provided a platform for all par- billion and shipments to Japan went up 5.5 per- history of making iconic ties to deepen their mutual understanding. cent to $18.13 billion. nonleather goods, and this is a unique opportunity for Stella McCartney to address a new category of accesso- ries for the busy woman of Colette Helps MCM Get Married to the Mob today,” said Marco Bizzarri, chief executive offi cer and president of Stella McCartney. PARIS — The hip boutique here, Colette, has limited-edition bag, priced around $1,000. Bizzarri told WWD the new collaboration was a way for the been busy playing matchmaker. The tote features the words Mob and MCM on brand to create a worldwide audience for Stella McCartney bags. As a result, the store today will celebrate each of its sides in outsized cartoon-ish lettering, “It will give her bags a wider appeal.” the launch of a bag collaboration be- and comes in combinations of black and white McCartney has a nonleather accessories line, part of her tween German accessories brand MCM or aubergine and white. A lip-shaped tag, ready-to-wear collection, that was launched for fall 2006. The and U.S. streetwear clothing label Mob’s signature, hangs from its handle. LeSportsac deal is the latest in a string of partnerships the de- Married to the Mob. McSweeney said the project has given signer has formed to boost her brand’s profi le as well as the bot- The tote will sell for one season her a taste for accessories. tom line. as an exclusive to the store. “I defi nitely want to launch my own Other collaborations include a line of activewear for Adidas, “When I think of bag line over the next two and a one-off capsule collection for H&M in November 2005. MCM, I think of LL Cool seasons,” McSweeney said, McCartney also has two fragrances and will launch her skin J wearing one of their adding that she is prepar- care line in the U.S. on Feb. 15. visors in the Nineties,” ing to present her first Steve Jacaruso, chief operating officer and president said Leah McSweeney, denim line in New York of LeSportsac, said the brand wanted to “tap into Stella the 24-year-old founder at the end of March. McCartney’s creative vision and take [LeSportsac] to the next of Mob, which launched Her brand, which fea- level of high-end design and style.” in spring 2004. tures T-shirts, sweatshirts He said the line would be innovative and versatile and the For the project, Mc- and, for fall, a satin jacket, bags would appeal to a variety of women, whether or not they’re Sweeney customized is distributed in niche toting children around. one of the brand’s stores such as Huf in A Stella McCartney spokesman said the company would report classic patent leath- San Francisco and Alife its 2006 fi nancial results in the late spring. Bizzarri said sales er totes with her in New York. were exceeding expectations. own brand of outsized “I started out as the As reported, PPR, which through its Gucci Group subsidiary graphics. MCM/Mob’s tote at Colette. only girl brand among male- holds 50 percent of Stella McCartney and has majority stakes “I wanted to move away dominated streetwear stores and I in Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen and Sergio Rossi, said the from the itsy-bitsy, allover print that’s in with feel I’ve conquered that now,” McSweeney said. brands were “well in advance” of reaching their breakeven tar- streetwear brands right now, inspired by “I’m ready to branch out.” gets in 2007. Vuitton’s monogram,” said McSweeney of the — Katya Foreman U.S. and Mexico Trade Deal Sets Stage for CAFTA-NAFTA Integration By Evan Clark region,” Schwab said in a statement. “I the countries must implement the chang- In a small way, though an important hope that the remaining requirements es. Additionally, the Dominican Republic one for the fashion industry, this begins U.S. TRADE REPRESENTATIVE for the implementation of the cumula- has yet to implement CAFTA and Costa to tie CAFTA together with the North Susan Schwab signed a customs coop- tion provision will be completed soon.” Rica has yet to ratify the pact. American Free Trade Agreement, which eration agreement Friday with Mexican Under terms of the customs coopera- Julia Hughes, senior vice presi- covers trade between the U.S., Mexico Secretary of Economy Eduardo Sojo, tion agreement, signed on the sidelines dent of international trade at the U.S. and Canada. taking an important step toward inte- of the World Economic Forum in Davos, Association of Importers of Textiles & “It’s the first step,” said Stephen grating apparel trade between North Switzerland, U.S. and Mexican customs Apparel, said these conditions might all Lamar, executive vice president of America and Central America. offi cials will work together to ensure that be met this year. “This is one of those un- the American Apparel & Footwear The pact lays the groundwork for cu- goods that make use of the cumulation usual circumstances where a textile and Association. “Ultimately, we’re going to mulation between Mexico and the coun- provision are accounted for properly. apparel provision is indeed breaking new need to see all of those barriers come tries of the Central American Free Trade The hurdles that remain before cu- ground in trade policy,” said Hughes. “It’s down between Mexico and the U.S. and Agreement, which would allow produc- mulation can go into use are signifi - the fi rst step toward what we were call- Central America.” ers in Central America to make apparel cant. Mexico needs to amend or sign ing the North American Platform, or an Allowing duty free treatment on with Mexican materials and still get duty trade agreements with the other CAFTA integrated North American industry that CAFTA goods using Mexican materials free access to the U.S. market. countries — El Salvador, Honduras, would bring the yarns, the fabrics, the ap- might increase competition for some U.S. “This has been a high priority for Nicaragua, Guatemala, the Dominican parel manufacturers all together without textile fi rms, which count Central America our industry and the industries in the Republic and Costa Rica — and then all barriers between borders.” as their most important export market. 4 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007 WWD.COM

Laysha Ward, Jasper Johns, Vicki Sant and Earl “Rusty” Powell 3rd.

Chan Marshall with Rolf Snoeren and Viktor Horsting. In Living Color “She’s amazing,” said Chan Marshall, aka Cat Power, as saucy Raquel Welch vamped it up at the podium during the Sidaction AIDS benefi t in Paris Thursday, thrusting her bosom at the microphone and, literally, kicking up her heels. The legendary bombshell reminisced about her fi rst trip to the City of Light. “It was 1966. I think I was 25, so don’t count,” Welch cautioned, as Marshall pumped a gloved fi st in the air and let out a whistle. During dinner, the mischievous minstrel showed off photos of her new pooch, Mona, a pint-size French bulldog she’d left behind in Miami. “She’s my new love,” Marshall declared. “I’m going to get her to do the Vanessa Bruno campaign and the Chanel campaign and Dior…” Gucci’s The singer, who performed at the Chanel show during couture week, Frida revealed how she copes with pre-concert jitters. “I just said to myself, ‘Well, Giannini. nobody out there probably knows who I am,’ and focused on Marianne Faithfull [who was sitting in the audience] and took the plunge. It was quite surreal.” “This isn’t black-tie?” Rolf Snoeren wondered aloud as he and Viktor Horsting arrived dressed impeccably in tuxedos and bow ties, which they promptly loosened. Sofi a The Dutch duo is off to New York to work on its next women’s scent and is gearing up Coppola for an exhibition at the Barbican in London next year. in Fendi. “What do you think of Victoria Beckham?” piped in Snoeren. “She’s so everywhere and now she’s planning to take over America. There’s just no stopping the girl.” Model Lily Cole, dressed in fl ame orange Christian Lacroix couture that matched her hair, revealed that shooting for “Phantasmagoria: The Visions of Lewis Carroll,” in which she’ll play Alice, has been postponed until fall. Sherri and “[Director Marilyn Manson’s] divorce kind of threw things out of balance,” she said. Michael Crichton “I defi nitely want to go into acting, but university is my priority for now.” Sofi a Coppola, Raquel Welch who sat at the Fendi table with artist Tom Sachs, slipped out of the event early. “I’ve got to and French get back to my little one,” she said, referring to her new baby, Romy. actress Meanwhile, across the Atlantic the evening before, the National Gallery of Art held a Clotilde black-tie dinner to launch its Jasper Johns show, which opened Sunday and runs through Courau. April. But it’s hard to know who gets the last laugh from the exhibition: the artist or the show’s corporate sponsor. Olivier Theyskens with “Jasper Johns: An Allegory of Painting, 1955-1965’’ contains more than a quarter of the Diana Gartner in Nina Ricci. 83 works that feature Johns’ depiction of targets, the celebrated logo of the sponsor, Target. But Johns wasn’t giving away any of his ideas on the relationship between art and commerce. Take, for example, the rise of hedge funds as the newest Medicis in the exploding art market. He dismissed the trend with an erudite sniff. “It doesn’t relate to me. I was just very fortunate,’’ he said. Other guests at dinner were author Michael Crichton, artists Frank Stella and Terry Winters and retail heiress Judy Dayton, who used her Nikon digital camera to snap photographs of pals Jo Carole Lauder and Sharon Rockefeller. Over at the National Portrait Gallery, corporate donors took a more direct approach to helping the arts. Pals of Democratic power broker Vernon Jordan showed up for the unveiling of his portrait, painted by artist Bradley Stevens. The gang, including Sen. Hillary Clinton, George and Liz Stevens, Jim Lehrer and Gahl Burt, raised $200,000 to help defray the museum’s 20 percent budget shortfall. Among the 15 hosts were Henry Kravis, Terry Winters Time Warner’s Richard Parsons, John Mack and Bruce Wasserstein. Ever the diplomat, and Crichton Jordan thanked the gallery for “getting rid of the ‘dead enough’ rule. Otherwise, I would

not be here.” WASHINGTON GALLERY OF ART, © 2007 BOARD OF TRUSTEES, NATIONAL STEPHANE FEUGERE; JASPER JOHNS BY SIDACTION PHOTOS BY

Jess PARK CITY, Utah — As one might expect, Jess Weixler During the premiere, the 1,300-person audience Weixler thought twice before taking on the lead role in “Teeth,” reacted as expected after watching the villainous the buzzed-about Mitchell Lichtenstein fi lm that was antagonists, ahem, lose their manhood, albeit in a campy, snapped up by Lionsgate a week ago at the Sundance stylish manner. Film Festival. In the ultimate female revenge fantasy, “Everybody screamed at the same time, and that was Weixler plays Dawn, a 16-year-old virgin who discovers intensely satisfying,” admits the Kentucky-bred blonde. she is a living example of the “vagina dentata” myth of, “It’s a cult-y, good-time movie that you want to see with a literally, a man-eating woman. lot of people around; a bit of a theatrical experience.” “At fi rst I was like, ‘Am I ready to do that?” says the Sundance’s social mix, like that of New York, where she 25-year-old Juilliard alum, who has worked the soap and now lives, seems to agree with her. “It’s a diverse crowd, prime-time guest-star circuits as well as regional theater with total newbies like me and the ‘Rocket Science’ kids,” troupes since graduating. she says, referring to the well-received Picturehouse But, after discussing the movie with writer-director comedy that stars a crop of new faces. “We’re all just young Lichtenstein, son of artist Roy Lichtenstein, who assured her and a little bit in awe of having been here at all.” it was intended as a humorous horror fi lm, she realized the So, for the real question: Have men been treating upside of controversy. her differently after seeing the fi lm? “For the most part, “I started thinking of Dawn as a superhero,” she people are like, ‘Rock on!’” she claims. But, she adds, “I explains. “Why would I ever pass up this opportunity? have had a few people come up to me and say, ‘Are you It’s uncharted territory, and it’s original,” she adds, ever going to have sex again? And I’m like, ‘Shut up. I perched on a plastic chair in an enclosed atrium in the think I’ve got it taken care of, thank you!’”

First Bite First festival’s Marriott Hotel headquarters. — Jenny Sundel WEIXLER PHOTO BY JEFF VESPA/WIREIMAGE JEFF VESPA/WIREIMAGE WEIXLER PHOTO BY WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007 5 WWD.COM

Stephanie George, president of In Style, Livestrong charity, and each article front — but that he found the process Real Simple, and Essence, and IPC chief focused on socially conscious dimensions sound, as managing editors had the fi nal executive offi cer Sylvia Auton were promoted of business, labeled as a “Giving Back” call about any content that went into MEMO PAD to executive vice presidents. George will column that has not since reappeared in their magazines. “We’re the stewards of BOWING OUT: At least one executive from now have oversight of corporate sales and the magazine. (The sixth article, about our readers,” he said, adding, “We don’t Time Inc. is leaving the company of her marketing, and the business sides of the charitable investing, was written by Ellen want the magazines to look like Whitman’s own volition: co-chief operating offi cer People Group and Entertainment Weekly McGirt, a Fortune writer now following Samplers of all the business magazines Nora McAniff will step down from her post in addition to her current role, while Robert Safi an to Fast Company). at Time Inc.” Eric Pooley, managing editor as of March 1, a move unrelated to the Auton will add responsibility for Southern Besides those occasions, Fortune has of Fortune at the time, did not respond to impending 289 layoffs at the company. Progress Corporation and the business never repurposed Business 2.0 content requests for comment. But a rival business McAniff, who has been with the company sides of All You and Life to her current since its parent company bought the magazine editor mocked the content for 25 years save for a short sabbatical in duties. The three join current executive magazine in 2001. None of its competitors sharing arrangement: “They couldn’t 1992, stressed the move was for personal vice president Mike Klingensmith. appear to have offered ACI adjacencies in muster the effort to gin up 500 fresh reasons. “I had been thinking about this On an unrelated topic, the 2006, nor did fellow Time Inc. titles Sports words?” — Irin Carmon for six months,” she said. “I just want to spokeswoman — without even being Illustrated and Time. do something different. I’m young, I’m 48 asked — volunteered that People and Fortune and Business 2.0 became that VISIONS OF AMBER: Stella McCartney and I have a lot left in me. I want to try Entertainment Weekly were not merging. much closer last April when they were has wooed Amber Valletta away from something new, and I don’t know what that Which caused WWD to ask: Are they? All united, along with Money, Fortune Small Tinseltown — where she’s making her newness is.” However, she said her next the spokeswoman would say was, “There Business, and CNNMoney.com, under mark as an actress — back to the fashion move most likely won’t be in magazines. are no further changes to announce at this the Business and Finance Network, with glossies. Valletta will be featured in McAniff has served in her current role time.” —Stephanie D. Smith a single sales force under the leadership McCartney’s spring ad campaign, shot since December 2005, sharing the title of Chris Poleway. Repurposing content by Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinnodh with John Squires. With her departure, FORTUNE’S SMILE: Publishers often bend across magazines to maximize advertising Matadin at London’s Number Eleven Time Inc. chief executive offi cer Ann over backwards to give their advertisers opportunities would seem like a natural Cadogan Gardens hotel in November. Moore has dropped the position of co- so-called added value, but the bargain way for a publisher to shore up some “As far as I’m concerned, it’s time for chief operating offi cer to create four apparently struck by Fortune and American pages (Fortune’s were down 6.4 percent a bit of Amber,” declared McCartney, executive vice presidents: Squires will Century Investments shows a little more last year), but Poleway initially denied who assisted on the shoot while she become executive vice president, but have “synergy” than usual. Starting last the ACI adjacency was an example of any was eight months pregnant. Valletta seniority of the four. A spokeswoman for September, fi ve of the six times ACI bought such strategy, saying the editorial decision replaces Kate Moss, who has appeared Time Inc. emphasized Squires’ move is ads in the magazine they were adjacent came fi rst. However, in a second interview, in past McCartney campaigns. The ads, not a demotion. “John Squires is still the to older articles from fellow Time Inc. Poleway conceded there had been art directed by M/M Paris, will break in obvious heir apparent to Time Inc. chief publication Business 2.0. Some of those publishing side initiative. WWD during New York Fashion Week, and executive offi cer Ann Moore.” Could that stories originally appeared as much as fi ve Josh Quittner, managing editor of in the March issues of American Vogue, be another reason why McAniff felt now months back. The advertisements were Business 2.0, said he had been frequently Pop, Another Magazine, Vogue Italy, and was a good time to leave? for a partnership with Lance Armstrong’s approached by the business side on this W. — Samantha Conti Luxe Factor Gets Boost on Bleecker Shiseido Brand’s Sales Climbing By Sharon Edelson By Ellen Groves NEW YORK — Bleecker Street’s evolution from a quaint strip in lower Manhattan lined PARIS — Sales are surging ahead at Parfums-Beauté with antique stores and pastry shops to international fashion thoroughfare is picking up Serge Lutens. steam. Business at the niche fragrance and cosmet- Luxury tenants are on the rise, along with rents. Marc Jacobs is said to have signed a ics brand owned by Shiseido has grown fi vefold lease on Friday for a 600-square-foot store at 382 Bleecker Street, where the rent is an over the past fi ve years, according to Hassan estimated $500 a square foot. Saad, the brand’s director. Sources said the space might be devoted to Jacob’s home collection or Little Marc “By 2010, we plan to double our business,” children’s wear. Another option would be for the designer to move Marc by Marc Jacobs he said, adding that in 2006, sales spiked 45 men’s wear from the location it shares with women’s wear, at 403-405 Bleecker Street, to percent year-on-year. the new store, allowing women’s to gain more space. Saad declined to reveal sales fi gures; howev- A Marc Jacobs spokeswoman had no information about the new store. er, industry sources estimated the Serge Lutens Jacobs pioneered Bleecker Street for the luxury set in 2000. The new unit would brand generated 15 million euros, or $19 mil- be his third storefront on the street. Collection accessories and shoes are sold at 385 lion at average exchange, at retail in 2006. Bleecker. The shop at 403-405 Bleecker sells Marc by Marc Jacobs accessories and shoes While hinting that new retail concepts could be as well as the women’s and men’s wear. introduced in 2008, Saad said this year he would In addition to Marc Jacobs, Tod’s and Lancôme are among the fi rms said to be shop- focus on the brand’s existing network of doors. ping for space on Bleecker. “We have cleaning up to do; we will certain- “I see Bleecker Street as an alternative to Madison Avenue,” said Joel Isaacs, who ly close some points of sale,” he said. “We are has brokered fi ve deals in the last two years on Bleecker Street. “It’s got a great deal of going to concentrate our efforts on the sales momentum and a great deal of buzz.” force, quality merchandising and animations at Ralph Lauren helped colonize Bleecker Street with a trio of stores. Then came ten- points of sale.” ants such as Ruehl, a division of Abercrombie & Fitch; Reiss, a British fashion chain; Saad added the brand would Mulberry, a U.K. leather goods fi rm, and Brunello Cucinelli, a purveyor of cashmere that hire a new training director in would be equally at home on Madison Avenue. March. “I’m concerned that the prices are getting so ridiculously high,” said a real estate Created in 2000, the brand is BEAUTY BEAT broker who asked not to be identifi ed. sold in 1,600 doors in 30 countries, Homegrown concepts such as Olive & Bette’s and Cynthia Rowley are now outnum- up from 1,500 stores in seven markets in 2001. bered by national and international retailers. While France, the brand’s home market, is its “Bleecker Street is on highest-volume location, Saad said it now repre- the map as a location for sented 35 percent of total sales compared with international fashion,” 62 percent fi ve years ago. Europe remains the Rousse, a cinnamon-based said Lisa Rosenthal, a brand’s biggest region, clocking up 70 percent of scent, is due in March. broker at Ripco. “Brands business, compared with approximately 95 per- see it as a street you need cent in 2001. Italy, Germany and Russia are among other top markets. to be on in order enhance The U.S. is also proving to be a stalwart market for the fi rm. Thirteen your brand image.” percent of overall Serge Lutens sales were generated in just 30 doors there However, there is little in 2006. Making its U.S. debut exclusively in Barneys in 2004, the brand has available space, especially since been introduced in a handful of selective perfumeries and last year on what is considered the bowed in Neiman Marcus. prime block of Bleecker Saad said he hoped to increase sales in the U.S to a 20 percent share of Street, between Hudson overall turnover by yearend. and Charles Streets. The “[That] could double or even triple if we fi nd a chain that allows us to in- high rents are a function crease doors without losing our soul and identity,” he said. of “supply and demand, The U.S. leads sales of Serge Lutens fi rst signature makeup collection, an pure and simple,” Isaacs 11-unit line, which bowed in 2005. said. “And you’re talk- “It’s the country with the most potential for makeup,” said Saad, adding ing about spaces that makeup generated 8 percent of overall sales in 2006, and fragrance made up are often only between the remainder. 500 square feet and 1,000 In March, Serge Lutens will add Rousse, a cinnamon-based scent to its square feet.” lineup, which now has 40 fragrances. Rousse will retail for 75 euros, or $97 at But fashion tenants current exchange, per 50-ml. pour bottle. The brand’s best-selling fragrances could begin populating are Fleur D’Oranger and Amber Sultan. Bleecker Street farther Serge Lutens is one of a host of niche fragrance brands that have had ex- east. “There’s potential plosive sales in recent years. for Bleecker Street to fi ll “They answer the need for unique products,” said Fabien Petitcolin, beauty in with fashion tenants buyer at Printemps, the French department store group. He noted 2006 sales Bleecker Street is in demand. all the way to Seventh of Serge Lutens in the 17-door chain had doubled since 2005. Avenue,” Isaacs said. 6 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007

Christian Dior Bowerof Flowers Couture designers took a leaf out of nature’s book for spring, cultivating their own secret gardens of fl oral looks with fanciful elements. WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007 7 WWD.COM

Valentino Jean Paul Chanel Gaultier

Givenchy PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007 WWD.COM Accessories Report The Cause Behind Faraone Mennella Christian Lacroix Venetian Masks

By Sophia Chabbott oung Friends of Save Venice hopes red and white will be the Ycolors of choice for fall. The charitable organization, which seeks to help restore and protect Venice’s threatened masterpieces from water damage and pollution, has called on 24 designers, artists and fashion companies to aid the cause. Christian Lacroix, Rodarte and Ross Bleckner are among those that have created versions of Venetian masks to be auctioned Tuesday night at the Veneto Sales and Design Center in New York. The designers had to incorporate Swarovski crystals with a theme of red and white, but otherwise had free rein. “I did some research because I wanted it to be Venice-con- nected,” said accessories designer Devi Kroell, who incorpo- rated metallic python that is used on her slouchy hobo bags and over-the-knee boots. “I wanted it to be signature me.” The inspiration for Rachel Roy’s mask was “The Art of Seduction,” said the designer. “I used all camel, taupe and warm brown crystals for the mask, with black around the eye for the Indian smoky-eye effect.” Branches of coral extend from LaCroix’s red velvet ribbon-cov- ered mask, which lights up, while Bergdorf Goodman fashion di- rector Linda Fargo’s mask of tall red and white plumes was embel- lished with French playing cards and a veil of crystal chain mail. “We basically looked for creative designers, artists and people and thought about how they would interpret Venetian masks,” said Adelina Wong, chairman of Young Friends of Save Venice. The silent auction prices will start at $125 and Wong said she hoped the buyers will wear them to the Red and White Masked Ball run by the charity and set for Feb. 15 at the Metropolitan Club in Manhattan. Faraone Mennella chose not to use crystals in favor of the real thing. Inspired by Sophia Loren in the “Countess From Hong Kong,” the mask is covered in 24-karat gold leaf and fi nished with a gold-set rubellite cabochon and a round-cut diamond. “Of course, Faraone Mennella’s mask had to be precious, and this is incredibly precious,” said Faraone Mennella co-designer Amedeo Scognamiglio. “Incidentally, we just came back from Venice and the fascination, the magic and the romanticism of Venice’s art, landscape and history are so powerful that it’s almost a duty to help Linda Fargo Peter Som

preserve it. That’s why we decided to support Save Venice.” JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY California Companies Turn Carpetbags Into Chic Totes By Rachel Brown Part of the diffi culty is that few carpetbags from the Civil War and Old West pe- riods remain. Paradise, who has seen them at the Autry National Center in Los LOS ANGELES — The term “carpetbagger” carries negative historical connotations, Angeles, said they simply weren’t valued as much as jewelry. Lewis Baer, managing but Southern California accessories retailers and designers channeling the Civil principal of New York antiques supplier Newel, which lists a 19th-century carpet- War and Old West want to make carpetbags chic. bag for $750, added that the bags did not survive because they were handled exten- Michael Paradise, who is obsessed with virtually all fashions from the late 1800s, sively and preservation was not a priority. when Stronghold, the denim brand he coowns, was founded, went on a yearlong As a result of the Civil War bag’s rarity, Doris Raymond has been unable to ob- hunt to unearth facts about carpetbags. Eventually, he spotted a credible reproduc- tain one for her Los Angeles vintage shop, The Way We Wore, for more than a year. tion at a Wild West show where the guns have to be made before However, she is convinced the large scale of the bags has modern 1900 or be near-perfect copies. appeal. “I wanted something authentic,” Paradise said, gesturing toward “For the last few years, it’s been amorphous, soft, kind of 1980s the two styles of carpetbags he recently began selling for $295 and messenger [bags.] Now, we’re getting into a little bit more struc- $235 at Stronghold’s store in Venice, Calif. “Used carpets and tap- ture,” Raymond said. “The carpetbag has a very simple frame. It’s estries were really sturdy. They would make these bags, and that is structure without being too stiff.” what people would travel around with. People had become mobile Perusing current handbag collections, it is possible to trace really for the fi rst time with the railroads and stage coaches.” some of their roots to carpetbags of yesteryear. The Kelsey and Today, most people’s images of carpetbags come from movies set Celine styles in the fall 2007 lineup from Isabella Fiore, Los in England, where the Victorians popularized the inexpensive ac- Angeles, have body shapes and appliqués in contrasting leather cessories, or the Old West. Even Jerry Tarantino, co-owner of the and brocade fabric that recall Old West tapestry bags. Victorian Traveler, based in Chino Valley, Ariz., which crafts the Jerome Chouinard-Rousseau, a design director at Isabella Fiore, carpetbags — each one takes two hours — available at Stronghold, said the company has amassed on eBay and at fairs about 500 vin- became interested in historic luggage when he and his wife, Kathy, tage items spanning much of the 1800s and 1900s that designers can were in the 1993 movie “Tombstone.” Tarantino was a red-sashed search through for inspiration. Although most of Isabella Fiore’s buckaroo, and his wife was an extra. handbags are not designed with one particular era in mind, he con- Disappointed by the inexact look of the bags in the fi lm, the tinued, aspects of the past do creep into certain styles. Tarantinos set out to re-create the wide-mouthed bags that were Michael “The Kelsey is a travel piece, [and] I can really see why people worn by men and women and made at home or by local cobblers Paradise, would see the resemblance between that bag and some of the 19th- during the Civil War and succeeding decades. co-owner of century bags,” Chouinard-Rousseau said. “It is a bit Mary Poppins.” “Our idea was a pudgy, little doctor’s bag made out of soft fabric, Stronghold. For those who still fi nd carpetbagging taboo, Old West motifs nice handles and straps that would last a long time with nice brass are winding up in Los Angeles retailers in other handbag construc- buckles that would catch your eye,” Tarantino said. tions, as well. The derogatory term “carpetbagger” originated after The Tarantinos source upholstery fabric from different mills across the country. It the Civil War when many northerners headed south — carpetbags in tow — to make is typically chenille with detailed embroidery, usually in fl oral or shield patterns in their fortunes under the Reconstruction government. the Victorian manner. The bags’ short straps are leather, the interiors are lined with At the upscale boutique Filly, one of the bestsellers is $42 medium-size totes by canvas to protect from wear and a wooden and metal frame is the support system. the El Paso Saddleblanket Co., which also is a resource for cowhide and bull whips. Starting up a carpetbag business isn’t easy. Elaine Thomas knew how to sew, Horses, cowboys and cattle are stenciled on cotton. Co-owner J’Nai Cameron, who but she had never seen a real carpetbag before establishing Carpetbag Replicas in carries the bag herself, discovered the brand at a gift shop in Colorado, where she Charlotte, N.C., in 1999. was visiting her brother. “I studied the [online] pictures, and you can pretty much know how it is supposed to “This is not a designer bag. They are real country,” she said, emphasizing the look — you just don’t know how the cutting pattern is,” she said. “It was very laborious.” word “country.” “That is what makes them unique to our store.” PHOTO BY KATHERINE TESSIER KATHERINE PHOTO BY For Department Store Sales: 212.329.4510 For Specialty Store Sales: 415.486.1282 For Press Inquiries: 212.329.4504 10 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007 WWD.COM Accessories/Legwear Report Putting the Bounce Back in Legwear Continued from page one Zooey Deschanel, Christina Ricci, Keri Russell and Mandy Moore ditched the traditional uniform of jeans and Ugg boots in favor of tights, chic dresses and high heels. So as the spring retail season hits its stride, legwear brands have a new bounce in their step. Insiders said fall 2007 runway looks are likely to be blanketed with legwear, as hosiery manufacturers across the board are partnering with more designers than ever for next month’s New York shows. Hue is working with 13 designers, up from eight the previous year. Last fall, the segment struck a gold mine with the comeback of tights and footless styles. The NPD Group reported that sales of tights shot up 26.9 per- cent, to $104.4 million, from January through November 2006, reversing a double-digit de- cline in 2005. Even sheer hosiery enjoyed an uptick of 5.2 percent, to $916.4 million. Sock volume was basically fl at at $1.37 billion. Stockingirl “Dresses had a positive affect on legwear,” said Liz Hospodar, Bloomingdale’s divisional merchandise manager of intimate apparel and hosiery. “In the fall, we defi nitely saw growth in tights and footless and sheers. There also was a surge in shaping items and we predict that this will continue into the spring season.” Elizabeth Kanfer, fashion market director at Saks Fifth Avenue, said legwear sales there were “extremely strong. The covered leg was a runway trend, and we represented this with leggings and opaque tights. We were able to ser- vice the contemporary customer with leggings, as well as the modern and classic customer with opaque tights. We anticipate this trend going forward on runways for fall. If it is a trend, we Here and will buy accordingly.” right: A sudden demand for its leggings last sea- Karl son forced Wolford’s Los Angeles store to place Lagerfeld actresses Sharon Stone and Jamie Lee Curtis featured on a waiting list for its Velvet de Luxe leggings, black revealed a spokeswoman for the company. tights at “We have a small factory and everything is Zooey Chanel made with TLC,” she said. “We were all work- Deschanel couture. ing overtime.” AGOSTINI/GETTY EVAN ROGER IMAGES; RICCI, RUSSELL GIANNONI; DESCHANEL BY GIOVANNI BY PHOTOS BY CHANEL RUNWAY MITRA ROBERT STOCKING BY ENTERTAINMENT/SPLASHNEWS; ANNA POCARO/LONDON BY PALTROW WONG/INFGOFF.COM; Wayne Lederman, president of Leg on top of a 20 percent sales increase in 2006. To drive that growth, Leg Resource Resource Inc., maker of Via Spiga, Andrea is delivering more textured tights, over-the-knee socks and cozier items. Jovine and numerous private labels, noted that “We are using some heavier [gauge knits] that are sweater-like, including for this time of year, “I am seeing more regu- cottons, wools and acrylics, and even some higher-end materials, such as cash- lar-priced business than in the past. Retailers mere,” said Lederman. “We have added 100 new styles across our brands and are realizing that tights are very popular.” private labels.” So for the upcoming season, manufacturers are gearing up with ex- The legwear business for Planet Sox Inc., which produces the Planet Sox panded collections and pumped-up business plans. Not only is the desire brand along with several licensed lines including Hot Kiss, reported its leg- for tights and footless tights expected to grow, over-the-knee socks and wear business rose 25 percent in 2006. sweater-type leggings are predicted to become more important as well, “All across, it was a sensational year,” said the fi rm’s chief executive with layering a natural result. Color-wise, black, along with a range offi cer, Elie Levy. of browns, will remain front and center, and some manufacturers In the upcoming season, Planet Sox will incorporate more new mi- hope to renew an interest in navy, too. crofi ber yarns. Lederman plans for his business to grow by 25 percent this year, Michele Slade, vice president and marketing for socks at American Essentials, the producer of Calvin Klein legwear, said for fall it was introducing a tights collection under the ck Calvin Klein label. “The line is all made in Italy and has a beautiful feel,” said Slade. “We are focusing on coffee, charcoal, lots of grays and black — just very salable colors.” Look from London, known for its prints, has a fall lineup that emphasizes footless cable knits with Lurex metallic yarn. There will be a range of vertical and horizontal stripes, as well as a car- ryover of herringbone and crocheted styles. Wolford is eyeing success with black opaque and merino wool tights. The company also has high expectations for a new cash- mere and silk material it will unveil this year. Sharon Thorp, head designer for ETC Hosiery, maker of the ETC, ETC Platinum and Chinese Laundry brands, said it, too, would continue to focus on tights and luxury yarns in 2007. In March, ETC will introduce a new legwear line in partnership with an Italian luxury brand, which Thorp declined to name. “It was just a really good legwear year,” she said. “Our goal here is to have the consumer really rethink hosiery — to think of it as a fashion accessory.” Hansel from Basel, a sock maker that launched its fi rst collection in November, has set its sights on expanding into stockings and tights, accord- ing to designer and company founder Hannah Byun. For now, the fl edgling fi rm is forging a presence in the sock segment with novel designs inspired by Byun’s favorite artists, including Yayoi Kusama and Egon Schiele. Edward Miccinati, design director at Stockingirl, said, “Our best-sell- ing things [in fall ’06] have been footless — both capri and ankle length. We have also been noted for our heavy sweater knit wool socks, tights and legwarmers.” Last season, Marc Jacobs tapped Stockingirl tights for its runway show. “That gave a lot of credibility to the look,” said Miccinati. “The thrust now is to fi nd new colorations and new approaches to the foot- less look and tights in general,” said Miccinati. Stockingirl will expand its color range and continue to focus on prints. For fall, it will incorporate some dressier hosiery with an emphasis on thigh- highs, including a Swiss dot tulle thigh-high with a ruffl e. An over-the-knee Gwyneth Keri Christina sock in eight solid colors also will make its debut. Paltrow Russell Ricci “Every season, we always try to entice women to try something new,” he said. WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007 11 WWD.COM Accessories/Jewelry Report Vicenza Vendors Focus on Quality, R&D By Alessandra Ilari tinue to be on the romantic side, as is the palette of fruit- a circle. Available in pavé diamond white or rose gold, salad color stones, for which orange sapphires, green they are matched to either a white kogolong or peach- VICENZA, Italy — The Vicenza jewelry trade fair was a amethysts, kogolong, lemon quartz, moonstone, topazes colored moonstone. boon for brands that are proactive in research, innova- and rubellites are combined liberally. Pianegonda worked the color element via silver or tive design, special workmanship and top-quality stones. Many manufacturers cited retail expansion as a pri- yellow gold rigid chain rings and bangles with sprinkles Those qualities enable companies to better weather ority, especially in China and the Far East or in smaller of emeralds, rubies and sapphires, or with pendant ear- on-and-off market conditions caused by unsteady ex- countries such as Ukraine and Lithuania. And many rings and charms with red and ivory enamel hearts. Its change rates, lackluster consumer spending and higher jewelers are channeling money into their trademark oversized stones set on silver gold prices. Most exhibitors showing at the weeklong own stores or in-store shops. were also bestsellers. trade fair that ended on Jan. 21 said they were upbeat “There’s nothing like having your Valente also favored romantic styles, about business this year. own store for marketing the product namely three-strand chains with pyramidal Organizers said 25,000 visitors attended the show- range and image without fi lters,” said cabochon-cut green and purple amethysts, case, with foreign representation up 12 percent com- Maria Luisa Pianegonda, marketing pink quartz and honey-hued adularia. pared with last year. manager at Pianegonda. “We sell a phi- Together with Rosato and Facco, In the fi rst nine months of 2006, exports of Italian losophy and it needs to be experienced Mariella Burani Fashion Group ac- jewelry were essentially fl at, registering a 0.4 percent in the best way possible.” quired Valente in December to form a increase against the same period in 2005. The most sig- Last year, Pianegonda cut the ribbon company called Gioielli d’Italia. nifi cant growth came from Poland, up 75.3 percent, fol- at six outposts in China, Taiwan and “We think that the synergies in terms lowed by Russia, which rose 31.5 percent, and Hungary, Hong Kong, and is looking for space in of retail growth and new markets will with a 13.2 percent jump. China rose 10 percent, while Los Angeles and New York. be very important,” said Annamaria the U.S., which continues to be the Valente just signed Barzan, marketing manager. number-one export market for Italian deals to open stores in The acquisitions wind also blew jewelry, dipped 5 percent. Shanghai, Macau and Bei- over La Nouvelle Bague, acquired this “We need to be optimistic because jing, as well as in Seoul and La month by Stefan Hafner Spa, which is there’s always something that dents Ukraine, all in 2007, and Nouvelle controlled by Dubai-based Damas. into business: terrorism, high gold pric- Fope is to launch a shop Bague “This will allow us to boost sales, invest es, exchange rates,” said Pilar Coin, in Shanghai by yearend. in marketing and raise brand awareness,” marketing manager at Roberto Coin. Coin’s retail agenda said co-owner Leopoldo Poli. “We feel “But if the price and design are right, includes the opening of its fi rst stores in comfortable with this acquisition because the new manage- then clients come back for more.” Dubai in May and Macau in September. ment isn’t interested in tweaking the brand’s identity.” Evelina Hristozova, marketing man- In March, Antonini will open in The house’s specialty — enamel-adorned gold pieces ager at Calgaro, concurred: “If compa- Roberto Coin Fukuoka, Japan, with its new store con- with diamonds — continued to be a priority for buyers. nies invest in research to offer the right cept — a Louis XVI table surrounded This time, Indian-inspired pendants, rings and bangles product at the right time, the market by matte steel showcases, high-tech came with accents of prune and pepper red alongside will always be stimulated.” Flos lamps and a white carpet — that was unveiled in black-and-white combinations. In terms of trends, rose gold is the new white. the brand’s new Tokyo store in the fall. Antonini is also Calgaro continued to push the envelope and refreshed “It shouldn’t be too red, but if it’s subtle, then it’s ver- in negotiations with four independent U.S. jewelry stores a perennial classic — pearls — by using both pink and satile and elegant,” Valente said. to open in-store shops with the new look. white versions threaded on multistrand burnished silver- Chains of various lengths and widths are still popular, Antonini’s new collection is called Biarritz and focus- spun necklaces. At times, the styles were completed by together with voluminous earrings and rings. Shapes con- es on matchstick earrings and pendants that fan out in drop-shaped semiprecious stones and silver discs.

introducing...

“...we’re with you every step of the way”

legwear

[email: [email protected] tel: (914) 659-6177] 12 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007

Innerwear Report

Jacalyn Bennett’s silk velvet gown and Sethi & Sethi’s nylon tulle shawl. Soft Focus Sensual fabrics and draped, fl irty ruffl es and lace detail the season’s romantic

long nightgowns. NO.COM

Polyester satin nightgown from Lauren by Ralph Lauren. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: VANESSA/FORD; HAIR BY JACQUELINE BUSH AND MAKEUP BY MICHELE YURAS, BOTH AT ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIA BOTH AT MICHELE YURAS, JACQUELINE BUSH AND MAKEUP BY ERICKSEN; MODEL: VANESSA/FORD; HAIR BY KYLE PHOTOS BY

Polyester satin nightgown from Oscar de la Renta Pink Label worn over Vassarette’s nylon and spandex bra. WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007 13 WWD.COM Natori to Launch Josie Foundations

Seamless, By Karyn Monget Select Natori’s molded Natori active- he Natori Co. has signed a licensing cup styles bras will inspired agreement with Dana-co Apparel are the T be going bra. Group to produce a collection of bras and core of up to a coordinating panties bearing the Josie Natori G cup. name for spring 2008. bras. The deal is a further extension of the Natori fi rm’s existing licensing pact with Dana-co to manufacture and merchan- dise bras by Natori and Josie Natori, as well as microfi ber undies that are marketed in point-of-sale materials and hangtags as the Natori Underneath col- lection. Natori Underneath is part of the Natori Black Label line. Neither offi cials at Dana-co nor Josie Natori, chairman and chief executive of- fi cer of the Natori company, would give a fi rst-year wholesale sales projection. But branded bras by Josie might gener- ate fi rst-year revenues of $3 million to $5 million, according to industry esti- mates. Total wholesale volume of Natori foundations and panties is estimated at $20 million. This is in addition to annual revenues of about $40 million generated from daywear, sleepwear, robes and at- homewear by the Natori company. Natori will be available up to a G cup. ited and contemporary looking. We intend “It’s an appropriate time to build an en- “We’re very serious about the bra busi- for this to become a meaningful business. tire Natori and Josie lifestyle,” Natori said. ness and we’ve grown it tremendously over This will not be a T-stand business.” “We introduced Josie daywear for spring the past year,” Natori said. “We’ve done Distribution of Josie bras is aimed at 2007 and now the bras and underwear will very well with classic, seamless, molded major specialty and department stores, be launched at the August market.” bras by Natori. Now, bras by Josie will including Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bra cup sizes will start at 30A and offer more fashion with embellishments, Bloomingdale’s and Dillard’s Department

PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTOS BY go to 40DD. A select number of bras by laces and embroideries, and will be spir- Stores. Suggested retail will be $40 to $60.

Hanky colors include black, pink, chocolate, taupe, Panky’s wedgewood blue and ruby for holiday sell- Hanky Panky Unveils First Bra Line demi ing. There also is a leopard-printed signa- uplift bra ture lace style trimmed with black lace and anky Panky has two things to celebrate for fall: its (left), and a center-front mini black satin ribbon bow. H30th anniversary in business and the launch of the animal- Several styles feature an “extra-support fi rst collection of bras bearing the Hanky Panky label. print mesh sling” at the base of the cup to lend additional Known for sleek and comfortable nylon thongs of set. support or place cookies to enhance push-up signature lace, as well as a range of classic and fash- cleavage. Other special treatments include ion daywear and sleepwear items, the Hanky Panky two strap sets at the back, one standard strap brand is a consistent bestseller at major department and one that is closer set, allowing each to be and specialty stores as well as boutiques, accord- hooked together or be crisscrossed. ing to retailers. Concept pieces were previewed in “We’ll probably offer a separate hook- November, and a full collection will be unveiled at the and-eye that would act as a spacer for en- Lingerie Americas trade show from Feb. 7 to 9 in New hanced comfort,” Epstein said. York. The collection also will be shown at the Hanky Deliveries begin July 25. Domestic and Panky showrooms on Park Avenue South during the international distribution is aimed at stores next week’s New York market, and later will be ex- that sell Hanky Panky products, as well as hibited at the CurveNV trade fair from Feb. 13 to 15 e-commerce businesses, including barene- in Las Vegas. cessities.com, Figleaves.com and two major The vintage-inspired line of bras and coordinating store Web sites: neimanmarcus.com and panties is designed by Gale Epstein, president and nordstrom.com. In addition to the U.S., the creative director of Hanky Panky, and innerwear veteran Joyce Baran. privately owned Hanky Panky, which gen- “There’s a retro glamour to the line, a glamour from the World War II period. erates estimated annual wholesale sales I think there’s a strong resurgence of that feeling taking place right now,” said in excess of $50 million, is sold in Canada, Epstein, noting that the imagery will be reminiscent of Forties pinup girls and Sweden, Japan, Italy and the U.K. Vargas paintings. “It will be based on a sexy, playful glam girl.” First-year wholesale sales are projected at $5 million, said Brenda Berger, vice The collection consists of four signature stretch lace styles that can be matched president of sales. with boy-cut briefs or thongs, including the trademarked Most Comfortable Thong. Berger added that the launch will be supported by outdoor advertising on kiosks Styles include a contoured underwire demi-cup, a contoured triangle number, a in Manhattan near Lincoln Center, Grand Central Station and the Altman Building smooth contoured underwire style and a fashion underwire demi-cup with contrast and Metropolitan Pavilion, where the Lingerie Americas show will be staged. stitching. Underwire bra sizes range from 32A to 36D. Soft-cup styles go to 36C. Solid — K.M. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY 14 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Intimissimi Lands in London By Nina Jones units in the U.K. are operated by the Mizzi fam- ily, a private franchisee. LONDON — Intimissimi, the Italian lingerie “We want to go ahead with the growth and brand known for its affordable, high-quality lin- further development of the Intimissimi brand in gerie collections in silk, lace and cotton, is in- London and around the U.K.,” said the spokesman, creasing its presence in the U.K. who noted the company also plans to launch the The 11-year-old brand, which is owned by Calzedonia brand of hosiery and swimwear in the the Italian hosiery and swimwear company U.K. this year, as well as the Tezenis brand. Calzedonia, opened a 1,300-square-foot fl ag- ship on London’s bustling shopping thorough- fare Oxford Street last year, adding to a 1,000- square-foot boutique that bowed on King’s Road in Chelsea last fall. Intimissimi also operates stores in Harrow and Reading, out- side London. The brand is sold in 809 stores in several countries, including Spain, Mexico, Poland and Croatia, and through in-store bou- Here: The new Intimissimi tiques in Victoria’s Secret in the U.S. boutique is located on “Oxford Street enjoys all-day [retail] traf- bustling Oxford Street. fi c and this means maximum exposure to Above: A seductive entrance. consumers, including the huge tourist foot- fall [on the street],” an Intimissimi spokes- man said. “For us, this location is like an- nouncing, ‘We have arrived.’ It’s a message to the market.” The fl agship sits at the east end of Oxford Street, near Uniqlo, Claire’s Accessories, La A whimsical store interior. Senza and Hennes & Mauritz. With simple cream walls, pale wood fi ttings and soft lighting, the spokesman said the store was de- Tezenis is the company’s latest lingerie signed to evoke “the consumer’s bedroom…a brand, which specializes in basic pieces with an feeling of relaxation.” urban feel. The unit features Intimissimi’s entire col- In the U.S., Calzedonia operates 150 lection, including bras, panties, sleepwear, jer- Intimissimi in-store shops in Victoria’s Secret sey tops and a collection of men’s underwear. stores through a deal with Limited Brands Prices range from about $16 for a pair of cotton signed in 2005. As part of the agreement, the or lace panties to $108 for a silk robe. Silk bras company plans to launch a line of Intimissimi are priced at about $34. The company projects beauty products with Victoria’s Secret in the U.S fi rst-year sales of $1.96 million at the store, the this year. The spokesman said the fi rm also aims spokesman said. He added there are plans to to open 80 additional in-store shops this year, open more stores in the U.K. Its four existing and total 235 by the end of 2007. INTIMATE NOTES ROYALTON SHOW: The third edition of the Boutique Lingerie New York trade show will be staged Feb. 7 to 9 at the Royalton Hotel. The three-day event, which is open from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., is organized by ready-to-wear and lingerie designer Samantha Chang. The compact trade fair is focused on up-and-coming designer labels as well as fashion-forward lingerie brands from the U.S., Australia and the U.K. A diversifi ed group of exhibitors will include: Bezi, Beau Bra, Charnos, Commando, Madame V, NiteSweatz, Poet, Sexy Panties and Naughty Knickers, The Lake & Stars, Playful Promises, Myla, Samantha Chang, Zovo Lingerie, Damaris & Mimi Holiday, Guia la Bruna, Jimmyjane, Julianne, Papinelle, Wicking Sleepwear, Fleur England, Arobatherapy, Hot Dot Greetingwear, 2 Belles and Jodi Gallaer. The event “gives small, independent brands an alternative to exhibit at a more intimate and exclusive environment, which gives our buyers more attention,” Chang said. “The show is building a nice reputation, especially among younger, international talents like those who show at the Spicy Garden section at the Salon International de la Lingerie in Paris. The show also represents a marketplace where specialty stores can fi nd special and exciting new products, products beyond the normal big brands that [have] been dominating the industry. Boutique Lingerie NY has found its own niche.” The next three Boutique Lingerie New York shows are scheduled for Feb. 7 to 9, May 6 to 8 and Aug. 5 to 7. There also will be four Lingerie Boutique shows during Los Angeles Fashion Week: March 23 to 26, June 8 to 11, Aug. 10 to 13 and Oct. 26 to 29. The Los Angeles venues are on the fi fth fl oor of the Gerry Building, across from the California Mart.

ASIA ENCORE: Eurovet, the leading lingerie and beachwear trade show organizer in the world, will be launching its second Asian trade fair April 3 and 4 in Hong Kong. It will be called Hong Kong Mode Lingerie and will be at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. The decision to stage a second edition in Asia follows the success of the Shanghai Mode Lingerie trade fair that was launched in October 2005. The Shanghai rendition was followed by a second successful show last December, said Anne-Manuele Hebert, international manager of Eurovet. Hong Kong is a “major hub in Asia with many advantages, such as its main location for key regional offi ces and buying groups, a huge and innovative distribution network and a cosmopolitan city easy to reach from anywhere in Asia,” Hebert said. The format will include Interfi lière Asia, which will focus on fabrics and fi bers, and a “private lingerie” platform of top international and Asian brands, she said. “Eurovet is very confi dent that Hong Kong Mode Lingerie will develop rapidly, as already 60 percent of the exhibitors of Shanghai Mode Lingerie are keen on participating in the Hong Kong show, and 90 percent of visitors said they would also visit Hong Kong,” Hebert added. WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007 15 WWD.COM Lingerie Americas

The Simone Perele booth Strong Turnout Expected at Lingerie Americas. Amid Shifts in Market By Karyn Monget NEW YORK — A hectic pre-Valentine’s Day market is anticipated by innerwear vendors and retailers next month, but expectations are high for a strong retail turnout at the fi rst February edition of the Lingerie Americas show here, said Patrice Argain, president of the trade fair. “When we decided to follow the new market week dates for 2007 more than 18 months ago, we knew the schedule this season would be more hectic than usual,” Argain said. “This may have a slight impact on atten- dance this February. But, thankfully, the market dates are before, not during, the week of Valentine’s Day. So, we still anticipate a strong turnout, and pre-registration fi gures support this expectation.” The registration fi gures were not available. However, about 2,500 visitors are expected, said a spokeswoman.

A busy stand at Mary Green.

Argain noted that the show, which is scheduled for People, FS2 by Fernando Sanchez, Helene Ponot, Little Feb. 7 to 9 at the Altman Building and Metropolitan Arlotta, Lou, Malizia Silk, Occhi Verdi, Mudd Sleepwear, Pavilion in Manhattan, will feature 270 brands. Tra-la-la, Viviana G for Petit Pois, XoXo Intimates and “Another sell-out season: 55 brands are showing hosiery from La Perla. for the fi rst time, the usual turn at Lingerie Americas,” “We have approximately the same geographical mix Argain said. “Some of the notables are Badgley Mischka. of countries represented,” Argain said. “The stron- We are very excited they chose to debut their [intimates] gest participation is from the U.S., which makes up collection at Lingerie Americas.” 60 percent of the total number of brands, followed by He said new exhibitors would include Adrianna by Canadians with 10 percent. The French are in third Jeannette Cook, Annabelle Joule, Bendon Sport, Biatta place with 7 percent.” Intimates, Carol Molony, Catchy, D’lish by Daniella The other exhibitors are representatives from Italy, Simon, Ed Hardy Intimates, Fauve by Fantasie, Free the U.K. and South America. 16 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007 WWD.COM Lingerie Americas Dressing Up the Show With Treats and Trends

NEW YORK — Lingerie Americas show organizers will offer perks and distractions during what is ex- pected to be a frenzied market week. The show’s president, Patrice Argain, said boutique buyers will receive a complimentary gift box of 40 silver-toned bracelets to place by store cash registers as a “point-of-purchase Valentine’s gift.” “We wanted to do something special for the buyers, recognizing that the dates of the On Gossamer’s market this season are not the most convenient,” he explained. dual-purpose Gift bags for retailers will also include items from show exhibitors, including Betsey top and pants. Johnson Intimates, Biatta Intimates, Coton Doux, Ginch Gonch, Kadi, Nuit Magique, So Shei and Vestiny. A complimentary breakfast, lunch, snacks and hot beverages will also be available. Two trend workshops are planned. The Doneger Group will stage a seminar for the fi rst time on Feb. 8 at 3:30 p.m. Doneger’s fashion director, Roseanne Morrison, will present a trend overview called “Pillow Talk.” A second semi- nar called “Successful Retailing by the Numbers,” will be presented by Alan Thurgood, president of Ensign Systems, and Ken Stewart, president of Sensible Business Systems. It is sched- uled for the same day at 4:30 p.m. Both seminars will be staged on the lower level of the Altman Building. Trends at the show are likely to include: ● Lots of lounge looks that double as ac- tive or casual sportswear. ● Dual-purpose daywear items that can be worn as sleepwear. ● Cuddly, spa-inspired robes. ● Highly embellished, sexy looking bra and panty sets in European laces and embroideries. Two other presentations will include “Shop Scouting Worldwide,” a video fea- turing innovative distribution concepts and new store openings, which will be hosted by The Best of Intima Magazine, and “The Best Shop Awards.” Both events will take place in the Best of Intima Magazine Lounge. Visitors can also take a breather in the Wear Canada Lounge located in the lobby of the Metropolitan Pavilion, where a wealth of information will be available on Canadian innerwear brands. And there will be a Las Vegas-inspired cocktail party on Feb. 7 in the Altman Building restaurant, from 6 to 8 p.m. A prelude to the fi rst Lingerie Americas Las Vegas trade fair, which is scheduled Aug. 27 to 29, the festivities here will fea- Eberjey’s ture casino tables, and what show orga- little Empire nizers called “special entertainment.” chemise. — Karyn Monget Elle Macpherson Intimates’ sexy sheer slip.

Oscar de la Renta’s quilted Stan Herman’s jacquard spa-inspired robe. bed jacket and pants. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY

18 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007 WWD.COM Financial

Weekly Stocks Fast Stats 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE 81.48 49.98 Abercrombie & Fitch 18.0 72772 78.92 -0.98 36.10 27.30 Jones Apparel 21.6 31439 34.83 -0.41 Average household debt: 27.13 19.51 Acadia 44.1 11016 25.66 0.15 48.12 22.14 Jos. A. Bank 14.5 14033 30.14 -1.41 136% of after-tax income in 37.06 21.07 Aéropostale 21.2 59553 35.80 -0.01 34.84 23.50 Kellwood 35.2 9109 32.02 0.17 23.72 17.01 Alberto Culver 9.9 49447 23.15 -0.34 28.72 21.75 Kenneth Cole 18.0 4619 23.64 -0.46 the third quarter of 2006. 3.19 1.88 Alpha Pro Tech 23.5 2274 2.85 0.07 69.97 56.59 Kimberly Clark 17.6 91082 68.25 -0.66 34.80 16.57 American Eagle Outfitters 21.0 160354 31.94 -2.08 49.28 33.65 Kimco Realty 32.7 45652 48.92 0.66 45.15 32.18 Ann Taylor 16.4 126039 34.20 0.47 75.54 43.90 Kohl’s 23.2 107611 68.95 -0.58 Housing starts in 2006: 10.45 6.17 Ashworth 112.9 6286 7.98 0.58 37.81 22.54 K-Swiss 13.9 10547 31.41 0.49 35.14 26.16 Avon 31.8 127302 33.53 -1.06 13.98 10.55 LaCrosse Footwear 13.3 816 13.60 0.09 1.8 million, a 12.9% 23.03 8.63 Bakers 40.1 596 11.69 0.16 18.86 11.37 Lakeland Inds 14.6 984 14.80 0.78 decline over 2005. 26.86 14.07 Bebe 21.5 78684 17.96 0.01 32.60 22.80 Limited Brands 14.7 156963 27.62 -0.77 40.00 23.80 Benetton 48.5 214 36.59 -0.85 21.50 8.66 Liquidity Services 56.6 8707 19.00 1.65 16.50 8.01 Big Dog 85.3 220 15.24 -0.56 46.18 33.40 Liz Claiborne 17.3 32014 43.32 -1.70 Unemployment rate: 4.5% 7.85 6.01 Birks & Mayors 8.6 83 7.15 0.05 7.09 2.69 LJ Intl. 29.2 36580 6.63 0.55 33.07 25.18 BJs 18.0 27040 30.39 -0.61 31.56 24.17 Luxottica 28.0 6383 30.84 -0.15 46.44 23.73 Blair 18.9 1948 41.91 4.24 93.92 67.11 Macerich 145.6 21136 93.46 0.98 6.80 1.48 Blue 12.2 1215 1.60 0.05 22.84 8.49 Maidenform 18.2 4231 19.40 -0.06 New orders for 1.60 0.68 Bluefly - 8824 1.16 0.02 43.28 29.81 Men’s Wearhouse 17.7 35383 42.86 0.88 manufactured durable 39.36 18.88 Bon-Ton - 6010 36.40 -0.32 26.31 15.20 Marcus 24.9 3945 24.16 -0.77 54.67 29.03 Brown Shoe 21.5 11176 50.25 -2.02 57.65 13.22 Mothers Work 17.9 16440 32.03 -7.99 goods in December: Up 3.1 36.65 22.25 Buckle 18.4 4993 33.18 -0.74 29.68 17.91 Movado 18.4 9534 28.19 -0.55 percent to $221.9 billion. 26.32 15.00 Caché 31.4 12353 23.17 -0.23 2.97 0.58 Movie Star - 9326 2.52 0.13 35.24 21.08 Carter 19.3 28783 26.22 -0.62 24.10 18.81 National Retail Properties 23.3 18037 23.61 -0.03 15.10 6.97 Casual Male 24.0 23849 12.21 -0.44 28.93 22.80 New Plan Excel Realty 31.2 26987 28.64 0.57 Inventories of manufactured 26.70 19.43 Cato 13.8 8060 22.40 0.56 19.50 9.41 New York & Co. 19.3 16532 14.80 -0.05 46.88 35.80 CBL 40.9 15198 46.41 0.88 101.20 75.52 Nike 18.0 78862 95.20 -4.74 durable goods in December: 12.74 9.15 CCA 13.0 527 11.41 -0.23 9.38 3.63 Nitches 29.8 54465 6.85 -0.43 16.76 7.01 Charles & Colvard 23.4 11472 7.29 -0.11 55.80 31.77 Nordstrom 22.2 86333 53.65 -1.38 Up 0.4 percent to $296 33.93 15.99 Charlotte Russe 16.3 59004 28.83 -3.08 23.43 14.18 Oakley 33.5 22400 23.26 0.51 billion; up 11 of the last 15.57 9.69 Charming Shoppes 15.3 63688 12.82 0.15 16.58 1.54 Oralabs 43.0 13353 5.14 -6.15 58.75 27.99 Chattem 26.2 12655 57.66 -0.37 6.00 3.25 Orange 21 - 1662 5.25 0.20 12 months. 46.23 33.65 Cherokee 20.7 1721 43.08 -0.20 11.55 6.81 Orchids Paper 280.0 166 8.31 0.00 49.40 17.26 Chico’s 19.5 106669 20.90 0.02 53.98 34.34 Oxford 15.2 9979 46.52 0.25 71.81 42.33 Children’s Place 20.4 28101 52.20 -3.29 25.26 13.12 Pacific Sunwear 19.4 57655 20.26 -0.60 Unfilled orders for 31.25 17.65 Christopher & Banks 17.9 40541 18.55 -1.59 19.24 4.43 Parlux Fragrances 20.9 10147 5.75 -0.12 manufactured durable 44.30 34.57 Cintas 19.9 38718 40.97 0.17 23.45 17.00 Paxar 19.4 9822 21.80 -0.36 57.85 26.78 Citi Trends 27.6 4478 40.40 -0.89 34.69 20.36 Payless Shoes 23.0 32794 33.65 -0.20 goods in December: Up 2.3 37.49 23.88 Claire’s Stores 19.7 52820 34.66 0.63 28.49 12.60 Perry Ellis 19.7 6456 27.07 0.39 47.03 25.18 Coach 28.1 267947 43.84 -1.16 55.50 32.21 Phillips-Van Heusen 19.9 29839 54.30 -0.40 percent to $694.9 billion, 31.26 18.48 Coldwater Creek 31.0 193666 18.46 -2.24 6.09 3.00 Phoenix Footwear 14.0 532 5.30 0.11 up 19 of the 68.03 53.56 Colgate Palmolive 26.5 89497 66.18 -0.67 15.01 9.30 Playtex 76.6 14059 14.02 0.60 62.55 42.85 Columbia Sportswear 17.2 30919 62.83 4.40 84.10 45.65 Polo Ralph Lauren 22.5 31296 78.80 -3.43 last 20 months. 44.99 17.61 Conns 13.6 8133 23.27 0.11 20.64 7.55 PriceSmart 40.4 3200 15.22 -0.90 57.94 46.00 Costco 23.1 125288 55.36 -1.41 3.00 0.92 Quaker Fabric - 1935 1.15 0.00 SOURCE: DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE, 9.45 7.13 Cost U Less 12.0 1486 8.67 0.52 16.08 11.60 Quiksilver 18.4 87996 14.39 -0.14 S&P RATINGS SERVICE 52.00 20.32 Crocs 36.5 55189 49.95 2.00 39.55 25.81 Ramco-Gershenson 67.5 3076 36.92 0.32 6.97 4.24 Culp - 586 6.21 -0.25 85.32 59.04 Regency Centers 47.5 15641 85.04 3.22 13.48 9.02 Cutter & Buck 17.2 906 12.79 0.14 20.47 12.35 Retail Ventures - 12894 19.40 -0.18 5.05 1.85 Cygne Designs - 258 2.32 0.00 3.75 0.76 Revlon - 93904 1.31 0.06 Stock Market Index 32.32 21.34 Deb Shops 16.1 773 27.32 -0.17 26.70 9.73 Rocky Brands 11.3 1890 15.55 -0.71 60.56 30.10 Deckers Outdoor 23.3 10250 57.74 -0.88 33.63 22.12 Ross Stores 20.6 77637 32.00 -0.35 12.00 6.61 Delia’s 54.8 9843 10.01 -0.02 21.45 14.10 Saks 26.7 85415 18.80 -0.07 20.50 15.19 Delta Apparel 10.6 322 16.40 0.85 182.38 115.95 Sears 20.6 71515 175.16 -4.36 10.58 6.01 Delta Galil - 5 8.10 -0.25 33.28 19.25 Shoe Carnival 19.6 5994 31.38 -0.95 Composite 66.36 47.40 Developers Diversified 40.0 34782 65.83 1.28 11.00 5.19 Shoe Pavilion 29.0 315 7.17 -0.07 1025.09 36.47 23.94 Dillard’s 14.2 50617 33.18 -1.10 113.50 76.14 Simon Properties 64.9 87258 112.18 2.65 18.32 12.10 Dollar General 22.5 162278 16.73 -0.74 36.30 18.30 Skechers 22.2 12257 34.51 0.04 28.09 16.91 Dress Barn 16.3 38371 22.76 0.29 6.16 3.68 Sport-Haley - 658 5.19 0.09 42.00 26.32 DSW 29.0 20195 38.26 -0.99 18.20 11.27 Stein Mart 15.5 12726 13.39 -0.40 42.06 22.34 Duckwall-Alco 22.6 145 36.18 0.59 3.81 2.83 Stephan 40.6 418 3.68 0.13 16.00 6.88 Eddie Bauer - 41261 8.63 -0.52 44.70 19.52 Steve Madden 14.5 14280 30.93 -0.01 24.58 13.63 Elizabeth Arden 16.9 11091 18.30 0.42 17.30 11.90 Stride Rite 16.0 14680 16.95 -0.29 43.60 34.70 Estée Lauder 27.0 38170 40.54 -0.40 13.54 10.65 Superior Uniform 39.2 227 13.25 0.23 -14.67 20.63 11.05 Everlast Worldwide 15.0 451 17.00 -0.82 21.24 14.20 Syms 32.1 521 18.98 -0.21 32.74 21.57 Family Dollar 23.4 59489 31.18 -0.95 1.66 0.38 Tag-It - 6925 1.49 0.15 45.01 32.38 Federated Department 21.6 265150 40.27 0.05 31.00 17.30 Talbots 23.7 30636 23.27 -0.16 18.81 9.55 Finish Line 15.3 22907 12.75 -0.26 13.55 9.27 Tandy Brands - 643 12.94 0.96 26.16 24.58 Forest City 31.6 21 25.40 0.01 8.32 5.75 Tandy Leather Factory 18.8 966 7.88 0.07 23.84 15.89 Fossil 23.7 12047 22.52 -0.43 40.59 29.67 Tanger Factory Outlet 98.2 10730 40.35 0.97 15.90 11.30 Freds 18.9 15651 12.87 -0.42 62.96 44.70 Target 20.2 206859 60.19 -2.16 Weekly % Changes 42.95 31.12 G&K 20.0 4314 39.15 0.86 2.20 1.03 Tarrant Apparel - 1398 1.50 -0.01 19.98 9.80 Gaiam 81.3 4864 12.17 -0.17 57.21 36.41 Taubman 48.9 22567 57.54 1.51 (ending Jan. 26) 21.39 15.91 Gap 18.1 489818 19.04 -0.96 13.73 8.15 Tefron 16.4 1532 9.81 -0.84 59.46 41.92 General Growth 294.9 56272 59.62 3.43 40.80 29.63 Tiffany & Co. 21.7 74097 38.55 -1.49 Gainers Close Change 43.72 25.50 Genesco 14.1 9510 38.67 -0.97 37.61 24.80 Timberland 15.9 21386 29.07 -0.57 22.95 7.91 G-III Apparel 29.4 5832 21.87 -0.71 30.24 22.16 TJ Maxx 16.6 167156 29.50 -0.53 Unifi 2.46 27.46 55.79 38.24 Gildan Activewear 28.7 9926 50.93 -1.27 24.36 14.65 True Religion 16.8 11251 17.35 -0.03 29.10 23.08 Glimcher 106.5 5817 28.28 0.79 44.53 27.85 Tween Brands 17.4 53465 33.49 -1.48 Innovo 1.31 15.94 11.89 6.29 Gottschalks 63.2 877 11.15 0.26 54.00 25.85 Under Armour 74.3 53315 50.04 -1.03 78.85 33.95 Guess 31.3 36388 72.15 -1.00 3.76 1.69 Unifi - 29724 2.46 0.53 House of Taylor 2.94 12.39 49.11 20.78 Gymboree 24.1 21943 43.09 -0.16 43.95 28.65 Unifirst 17.3 2635 41.05 0.96 152.00 77.30 Hallwood 5.8 7 105.00 -2.00 20.78 12.06 United Retail 5.7 3469 12.70 0.59 Blair 41.91 11.26 24.80 11.76 Hampshire 9.5 1031 14.75 1.25 29.15 13.65 Urban Outfitters 33.6 127128 24.37 -0.35 Tag-It 1.49 11.19 26.06 17.75 Hanesbrands - 17697 25.89 0.42 83.29 53.25 V.F. Corp. 15.0 70269 74.00 -7.04 9.97 5.50 Hartmarx 17.4 3704 6.79 -0.13 41.40 18.24 Volcom 28.2 14817 32.54 -0.68 25.50 16.18 Helen of Troy 15.4 9176 24.06 0.99 52.15 42.31 Wal-Mart 17.2 571300 47.67 -0.64 Decliners Close Change 15.64 9.43 Hot Topic 29.9 53668 10.22 -0.90 27.53 15.75 Warnaco 24.7 27074 26.98 0.10 7.30 0.95 House of Taylor Jewelry - 2313 2.94 0.32 13.45 10.50 Wellco 13.3 8 10.70 -0.05 Oralabs 5.14 -54.47 39.48 23.54 IAC Interactive 39.3 129202 37.74 -1.33 49.20 36.77 Weingarten 27.8 23134 49.04 0.51 21.62 12.23 Iconix 23.6 30730 20.53 1.09 25.72 18.76 Weyco 13.1 348 23.38 0.22 Mothers Work 32.03 -19.97 1.42 0.37 Innovo - 22957 1.31 0.18 4.13 1.65 Wilsons - 3882 1.68 -0.09 21.77 15.39 Inter Parfums 24.8 3374 19.44 0.21 30.20 20.26 Wolverine 18.7 13322 27.70 -0.11 Coldwater Creek 18.46 -10.82 43.56 24.00 J. Crew - 103892 37.67 1.90 31.72 21.01 Zale 26.8 20643 27.03 -0.66 84.09 54.18 J.C. Penney 17.2 104530 81.06 -1.63 38.85 20.00 Zumiez 54.6 13060 33.12 -0.78 Charlotte Russe 28.83 -9.65 11.83 7.15 Jaclyn 14.6 382 10.93 -0.22 V.F. Corp. 74.00 -8.69 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007 19 WWD.COM

show here. It remains to be seen which names the Nazis, using such pieces of equipment as end up on the roster when Mercedes-Benz rubber trucks, jeeps, cannons and tanks that Fashion Scoops Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios in Culver they infl ated on location. Fake airfi elds and City, Calif., kicks off March 14. convoys could be brought to “life” in a few SHIFTING DATES: The fall season of runway hours, replete with sound effects from Bell shows hasn’t even kicked off, but the Council of THE SHOW WITHIN THE SHOW WITHIN THE SHOW: Labs. Many of the camoufl age engineers came Fashion Designers of America, British Fashion “Ugly Betty” fans will get a glimpse of the from New York or Philadelphia art schools. Council, Chambre Syndicale and Camera hustle and bustle of New York Fashion Week Now, fi lmmaker Rick Beyer is at work on a della Moda already are looking toward 2009 (via a Bryant Park facsimile in Los Angeles) documentary, “The Ghost Army,” which will and 2010. At their meeting in Paris last week, on the network series’ episode Thursday. The tell the story of these men. On Tuesday, at a the groups agreed to move the show days in episode won’t include appearances by actual luncheon at the National Arts Club, former

February and September four days later starting designers, but Amanda (the sometimes-cruel STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY Special Troops members photographer Ned in 2009. It will mean the New York shows receptionist at Mode magazine, where Betty Maria Cuomo Cole, Kenneth Cole, Jon and Harris; museum designer Jack Masey; artist Bill in September will no longer start right after works as an assistant) will attend a re-created Dorothea Bon Jovi. Sayles; Bob Conrad, and retired Fairchild art Labor Day. Meanwhile, Mario Boselli, head of Betsey Johnson show featuring a skirt that will be also the name of Cole’s new men’s fragrance, director John Jarvie will tell their stories. Beyer, the Italian Chamber of Fashion, said the move referred to as the “It” item of the season. Tim marketed by Coty Inc., and Bon Jovi is the who’s also producing, and his consultant, “will make the weekend less critical for Milan Gunn of “Project Runway” will play a reporter scent’s face. Cole and Bon Jovi collaborated to Martha Gavin, will be looking for some investors. because it will fall in the middle of fashion week for Fashion TV — the show within the show create a collection of $795 jackets that were And, of course, the luncheon is bound to be and will help draw those buyers and retailers that reports on the happenings at Mode. sold during the holidays. All the efforts so far fi lled with other war stories. As Sayles recalled who used to skip the opening or closing weekend And to make the whole thing interactive, have yielded more than $1 million for Habitat for of Blass: He was a “wonderful guy. Knew what shows.” Boselli said CFDA president Diane von the “Ugly Betty” producers are holding a Humanity; HELP-USA, founded by Cole’s wife, he wanted. Read Vogue in his foxhole. The rest Furstenberg was hoping to push the shows a contest that asks anyone in the audience to Maria Cuomo Cole, and the Philadelphia Soul of us were a bunch of slobs, but not Blass. He week later, but that the Camera preferred the submit a sketch of a dress made of offi ce Charitable Foundation. The event Thursday drew was always dressed to the nines.” four-day option. Next year will be a transitional supplies, along with an original essay in 100 the likes of Ron Perelman, Howard Stern and Beth one, with the show dates moving two days later. words or less discussing the concept of the Ostrosky, Richie Sambora, Petra Nemcova and SCOOPLET: For Theodora Suki Silverman, who design. The winning designer will receive Russell Simmons. When asked if he’s involved made her debut on Jan. 23 weighing 7 pounds, GO EAST, YOUNG DESIGNER: Meanwhile, the New a trip for two to Los Angeles to attend a with charity work, Stern admitted that with his 2 oz., style is a birthright. When she gets a little York Fashion Week slate this season includes Friday taping of the show, which will feature radio commitments, he has time for little else. older, the daughter of Stefani Greenfi eld, co- several fi rst-time showings by a range of Los a dress based on the winner’s design that “Radio is the only thing I’m capable of owner of Scoop, will have access to an “ultimate Angeles labels: Morphine Generation, Pegah Christina (Mode’s “closet keeper” seamstress) doing, and that’s about it,” said Stern, who closet,” the concept behind the successful Anvarian, Linda Loudermilk, Twelfth Street by has whipped up in just 12 hours during a said he never imagined the immense wealth chain. But Greenfi eld also has a baby of a Cynthia Vincent and veteran brand Tadashi, blizzard for a celebrity-in-need (thus the offi ce a radio career could bring. “You don’t get into different kind in the works — a 10,000-square- which will premier its higher-priced evening supplies). With more than 500 responses in radio to be rich and famous. You get into radio foot megastore opening at 473-475 Broadway in gown line at the tents. Once West Coast less than a week of the announcement, judges because you have some bizarre fascination. I New York mid-February. As for her new daughter, designers reach a certain level of dollars and America Ferrera (Betty), Vanessa Williams never imagined I’d make a living in radio and an assistant said Greenfi eld will skip the New buzz, it’s natural for them to seek the bigger (Mode’s creative director, Wilhelmina Slater), make more than $250 a week.” York shows to spend time with her, but is stage of New York, as brands such as BCBG Ashley Jensen (Christina), Eric Mabius (Mode’s planning to go to Paris. And how does Greenfi eld Max Azria, Monique Lhuillier, Jenni Kayne, editor in chief, Daniel Meade) and Eduardo SMOKE AND MIRRORS: The Greatest Generation feel about Theodora Suki? “That she is truly the Rodarte, Rock & Republic and Grey Ant have Castro (the show’s costume designer) have is still full of surprises. Take, for instance, meaning of her name — ‘a gift from God.’” done. But many Los Angeles locals wonder their work cut out for them. what Bill Blass, Art Kane and Ellsworth Kelly if the migration is cannibalizing L.A.’s own had in common. They were all members of JOHN’S FAN: Roberto Cavalli was front row at fl edgling fashion week. Currently, several of GOOD ROCKER: “Who says you can’t go home,” the World War II 23rd Headquarters Special John Galliano’s men’s show in Paris over the the city’s most established designers, like Trina Jon Bon Jovi sang Thursday night at the Tribeca Troops, a clandestine group brought into action weekend. But there’s no conspiracy at work: Turk and Michelle Mason, eschew the runways, Rooftop as the rocker teamed up with Kenneth in Normandy in 1944 and sworn to a vow of The Italian designer said Galliano invited him though some believe their participation would Cole to kick off R.S.V.P. to Help, a fund-raiser secrecy for 50 years. Their mission: to create and he agreed to come simply because he’s a be a galvanizing force for other designers to to benefi t homeless organizations. R.S.V.P. is a series of imaginary army maneuvers to fool huge fan of Galliano’s work.

STYLE

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AccessoriesTheShow is a property of Business Journal, Inc. 20 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007 WWD.COM Hampshire Relaunches Marisa Christina Bloomingdale’s Gives to Charity

s part of its plan to build a better arsenal, Hampshire Group Ltd. is restructuring its Arecently acquired Marisa Christina division and relaunching the knit brand for fall. For International Disaster Aid After buying the better knit label in May, Hampshire scrapped Marisa Christina’s opera- Michael Gould tions end and replaced it with the parent company’s back offi ce. With a new head of sales with AmeriCares’ and design director, Richard Metzger, formerly design director for Garfi eldMarks, Marisa Curtis Welling, Christina now can focus fully on design and merchandising, which Michael Culang, interim president and president and chief executive offi cer of Hampshire Group, hopes will translate into a more ceo, and Peter attractive product. Farnsworth, “When you ask most people about Marisa senior vice Christina, they may say, ‘Is that label still alive?’ A look from president and or, ‘Didn’t they make Christmas sweaters?’” said Marisa Christina. chief fi nancial Culang. “Although we have some educating to do offi cer. vis-à-vis the label, really in today’s market, prod- uct comes fi rst, and if the product is great, the label will be resurrected.” For the fall launch, the brand returns to its knitwear roots, with woven complements, includ- ing bottoms. The prices for the cashmere- and me- rino-blended pieces range from $48 to $220 whole- sale, which refl ects about a 15 percent increase. Along with David Brooks and knit line Spring + Mercer, Marisa Christina is part of the $350 mil- lion, predominately moderate vendor’s new bet- ter area, which it hopes will grow to $50 million in NEW YORK — Bloomingdale’s has made a $268,100 donation to AmeriCares, a wholesale volume by 2010. nonprofit international disaster relief and humanitarian aid organization. “The moderate business is not exactly the “The sum is enough for AmeriCares to build fi ve small hospitals in Pakistan or emphasis of the better department stores,” said enough to send three planes with 22 tons of American medical supplies to Darfur,” Culang. “We’ve tried to develop a strategy to get said Michael Gould, chairman and chief executive offi cer of Bloomingdale’s. into the better department and specialty stores.” AmeriCares has distributed more than $6 billion in aid to 137 countries The 30-year-old Hampshire bought the publicly since it was established in 1982. In the U.S., AmeriCares provides basic traded Marisa Christina in May for $4.8 million. medical services for the uninsured, refurbishes homes of the disadvantaged Founded in 1971 and known for its knitwear, Marisa and provides camping experiences to inner-city children with HIV/AIDS. Christina at the time did $18 million in sales and Bloomingdale’s raised the money last holiday season through an online was sold in more than 700 specialty stores and up- auction of travel experiences wrapped in luxury and by tapping the sup- scale department stores. Culang said his challenge is to convert Marisa from being a pure- port of designers. For example, there was a trip to Milan for the Giorgio ly specialty store business into a better department store and higher-end specialty store Armani runway show and a backstage meeting with the designer, a private brand. fi tting and a complete Armani ensemble. Also auctioned was a trip to the Hampshire is spending $3 million to $4 million on marketing for all of its women’s lines Wimbledon tennis tournament and Wimbledon gear courtesy of Ralph this year, up about 30 percent from last year — the bulk of which is going into the better Lauren, who designed the on-court uniforms for the ball boys and girls. sector, Culang said. After buying David Brooks in October 2005 and then Marisa Christina, Money was also raised through sales of the store’s Little Brown Bear. the company remains on the acquisition prowl for more brands in the higher-margin better “This was a great partnership,” Gould said. “What AmeriCares has done business. is truly unbelievable.”

— Whitney Beckett JENNIFER GRAYLOCK BY JEREMY WILLIAMS; BLOOMINGDALE’S MARISA CHRISTINA PHOTO BY WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007 21 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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real estate suppliers opportunities vendors travel Two out of three readers discovered new vendors in WWD. connections Advertise in WWD, DNR and FN at a special rate and reach a unique audience of professionals across the women’s, men’s and footwear industries. Call 1-800-423-3314 or email fpclassifi [email protected] to advertise. Source: WWD Subscriber Study, Beta Research Inc., 2005. Call 1-800-423-3314 or email fpclassifi [email protected] to advertise. 22 WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

HANDBAG DESIGNER

Jewelry/Handbag Partner Vintage store seeks jewelry and/or handbag partner with vintage inspired Classic American Handbag and Leathergoods Brand designs. Share rent, promotional costs for long-term commitment. Not inter- This position is based in Fairhaven, MA on the south shore of Boston. ested in consignment. 917-837-3645 NYC Boutique Director Due to our tremendous growth we are seeking exceptional design talent to join our team. Watches & Fine Jewelry Candidate Requirements Chanel, Inc. seeks a candidate with exceptional sales, marketing, • 3-5 years relevant design experience, emphasis in better leather handbags and operational ability, preferably in the watches and fine jewelry • Proven ability to understand and incorporate marketing principles and apply Design industry. This Director will act as a brand ambassador to create an to design within set timelines Assistant Designers for environment in the flagship offering a true and unique luxury client • Excellent organizational and follow-up skills Top Trend Jewelry Co. experience. • Superb color sense Fashion Jewelry Co., with complimentary • Exceptional ability to apply and perform design skills such as drawing / giftware division, is seeking Assistant The ideal candidate will: Designers for Head Designer. Prefer min- PATTERN/SAMPLES • Offer innovative and creative ways to effectively develop strategic sketching, use of texture, visual presentation development and layout imum of 3 years experience, Photoshop business plans in order to drive top line sales • Presentation and public speaking skills knowledge a plus. Candidates must be Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast flexible and able to work in a fast paced work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 • Identify opportunities for events that will drive brand equity and • Bachelor’s degree in Apparel Design or Accessory Design environment. Salary commensurate with build relationships with clients and the community • Proficient in Adobe Illustrator and Excel experience. Excellent opportunity. Please PATTERNS, SAMPLES, • Consult and collaborate with other Chanel NY boutiques on • Travel to Europe, Asia, and New York Fax confidential resumes attn. TL at: 212-564-8279 PRODUCTIONS merchandising/visual efforts and product offerings Brahmin offers a generous benefits package, competitive salary and All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. • Possess 5-8 years experience in luxury retail management or other bonus, commensurate with experience. client-focused luxury industry preferred (i.e. hotel, art gallery) with PATTERNS, SAMPLES, a college degree or equivalent related business experience E-mail resume to: [email protected] PRODUCTIONS • Hold experience in event planning and public relations Full service shop to the trade. • Be able to travel to Paris upon request SALES Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. MARKETING DIRECTOR Established access co seeks energetic, We offer an attractive salary and competitive benefits package. For self-motivated salesperson for costume Patterns/Samples/Production immediate consideration please send a resume, cover letter and jewelry div. Must have following and Snaps/Covered Button salary requirements to [email protected]. We will Sally Hansen be able to cultivate new accts. Mass Any Style - Full Service market contacts A+. Travel necessary. Call 212-278-0608 / 646-441-0950 respond only to resumes that meet position criteria and include Del Laboratories, a major manufacturer of consumer Cosmetic Products, has Min 2 yrs exp. Fax res: 212-302-2753 Beading Service By Professional salary requirement information. No direct telephone calls please. an outstanding career opportunity for an accomplished Marketing Director in Contract: Penney 917-576-3138 Sally Hansen Treatment Division Chanel, Inc. is an Equal Opportunity Employer M/F/D/V. our . Primary focus will be the development PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD and marketing of products for one of the most trusted names in the mass High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- distribution channel. Responsibilities to include development of strategic plan sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 for the brand based on competitive review and brand review. Responsible for budgeting and forecasting, sales analysis and sales reviews, account Intimate Apparel * ATTENTION DESIGNERS * presentations and promotional calendar. Co. w/regular & plus size lingerie, bra sets, & body briefers seeks comm. based Reps/ Does the opportunity to have your collection featured Candidate should have a minimum of 7 years experience in Cosmetic Agent w/connections. Fax/E-mail: Marketing as well as a Bachelors degree in Marketing or related. Experience 718-361-0765 / [email protected] at the worlds leading bridal salon interest you? with cosmetic products is preferred. Qualified candidate has demonstrated Kleinfeld a leading bridal retailer is now in Manhattan! creativity, expertise and business acumen. Requires working well with support groups in a corporate setting. Exceptional communication skills OPEN CALL essential for success. WEDNESDAY JANUARY 31, 2007 (NEW DATE) We offer a comprehensive benefits package including health care, 401k ROSETTI GROUP 12:00 pm - 3:00 pm savings plan, life insurance, and educational assistance. For immediate Handbag/Accessories Designers Must RSVP to: [email protected] consideration, please forward resume, cover letter, and salary history to We have 2 new positions within our [email protected] or visit our Career Opportunities website at: Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. fast growing, dynamic business: We are seeking exciting new talent in Bridal and Evening Wear design as http://www.dellabs.com/careers/index.cfm?location=1 No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Equal Opportunity Employer Call CLOTHES-OUT: Entry Level Designer well as Bridal related Accessories and Fashion. Must have proven skills (937) 898-2975 and track record in designing a collection from concept to completion as CHAPS HANDBAGS: well as the ability to produce line for resale in a timely fashion . • Hand sketching or cad work • Work directly w/Design Director LuLu Handbags on product development • Well organized and detailed A fashion forward junior handbag company is CLOSE OUTS Jr. Designer currently interviewing for the following positions: We Buy Men’s, Women’s & Children’s KENZIE HANDBAGS: ASSISTANT DESIGNER All Quantities • 2-5 years experience in Design • Hand sketching or cad work Person must be proficient in Photoshop and Illustrator. WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY Responsibilities include assisting design team with all stages We are nice people to deal with • Work directly w/ Design Director of the design process, primarily sketching and development Also HBA and General Merchandise. on product development packages. Candidate MUST meet the following requirements: Call Rocky 800-762-5488 • Overseas travel A background in fashion with a strong sense of the junior • Detailed and well organized market. A self starter with the ability to work in a fast paced, • Daily communication with high pressure environment often on multiple tasks with the overseas office same deadlines! Opportunity for advancement. All experience Fax resume to: (646)473-1561 levels will be considered and evaluated on the above criteria. or E-mail: [email protected] Asst. Production Manager Designer Salary to commensurate with experience. & Coordinator ASST. DESIGNER Garment manufacturer & importer seeks SENIOR DESIGNER an asst. production manager & coordinator Major sportswear co. located in NYC Min. of 5 years in the junior handbag market. Person must FASHION FACULTY w/ 3-5 years experience to handle major seeks an assistant designer. Must have Private College seeks faculty for accounts & overseas factories. Please exp with CAD, knowledge of domestic be proficient in Illustrator & Photoshop. Responsibilities Fashion Program. Ph.D Degree Send resume to: [email protected] fabric market, efficient as illustrator, include; market research to identify current & emerging preferred, Master’s degree required, and develop spec sheets. Competitive trends, developing a cohesive line plan, choosing piece along with significant industry exp. BABY PHAT salary and benefits. Email resumes to: goods, spec and sketch silhouettes, create all artwork Designer & Graphic Designers Needed [email protected] involved in design, assemble tech packs, daily communication Knowledge of product development, Infants through 16 textiles, buying, visual merchandis- Email: [email protected] overseas and merchandising finished product in showroom. ing, merchandise planning & control. Domestic and overseas travel required. Individual must excel in an extremely fast pace, high pressure environment! Please send resume to: CAD Designer DESIGNER We offer a great work environment with competitive FASHION SEARCH Fast paced Broadway showroom seeks Based in Los Angeles. Textile service BERKELEY COLLEGE a CAD Designer w/3+ years experience in seeks a highly motivated Junior free- salary to commensurate w/experience. 58 West 40th, 15th floor 44 Rifle Camp Road CAD/Photoshop/Illustrator. Duties include lance designer. Colorist with multi On Bryant Park sketching, recoloring prints, catalog pages, tasking abilities, good color sense Send resume & salary requirements to: West Paterson, NJ 07424 and assisting in all phases of design. and strong knowledge of Photoshop / Facing Empire State Bldg. Fax: 973-278-0080 E-mail: [email protected] Illustrator a must. [email protected] Showroom and 3 Offices Private Entrance / All windows Bright Email: [email protected] BUYER New Carpet & Paint / $4100 per month Equal Opportunity Employment Based in Los Angeles or New York. DESIGNER DESIGNER Call Roy Chinnici or Corrina Degan DESIGN DIRECTOR Looking for a freelance buyer for junior Children’s Sleepwear Div of SaraMax Import trendy junior sweater company (212) 575-0191 Fast growing Infant Co. seeks a well merchandise. Experience is a must. Apparel is seeking a Sr. Designer with looking for designer w/ young and organized, creative, and motivated Send resume to: min 3-5 years experience in Girls / trendy ideas. Must know Photoshop 7th Ave. - Opportunity!!! team player. Must have exp. in super- [email protected] Boys Children’s Wear. Must be a team and Illustrator. Must have sweater ASSISTANT BUYERS / vising design team. Strong Illustrator leader with excellent org and comm knowledge from design to product. Great space available for rent in one of skills and knowledge of specs a must. the most prestigious bldgs. on 7th Ave. skills, with ability to manage team of Fax resume to: 212-840-1098 or SALES ASSISTANTS Please fax resume to: 212-279-0131 Approx. 800-900 s.f. Doorman; Kitchen; Fast-paced NY Off-Price wholesaler graphic designers. Illustrator and Pho- Email: [email protected] Window view; Bright light. Must see...! seeks 2 energetic indivs for asst buyer / DESIGNER toshop skills req’d. Fax resume, Attn: Call: 201-410-1616/ 646-710-0915 sales asst positions in the Ladies’ & EO to: (212) 842-4040. EOE. Better prvt label co seeks a sportswear Designer Men’s divisions. Reports directly to Designer Associate designer. Ability to sketch,spec, create Search For Space In Garment Center division heads. Great oppty to work w/ Woven sportswear mfr seeks energetic, Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee presentation boards, & communicate Jr. U4ia CAD Designer top vendors/retailers. Must be computer motivated designer w/2-4 yrs exp who overseas. Knwlge of fabric mkt & Fast paced high energy Women’s www.midcomre.com savvy & self motivated. Flexible sched- can handle many projects. Photo/IIust Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 photoshop /illustrator. Able to multi Apparel Co. seeks Jr. U4ia CAD artist ules & adv Excel skills necessary. Must & good hand sketching a must. If you task & work in fast paced environ- w/ min 1-2 yrs exp. Candidate must be have apparel exp. Great advancement are a team player, have great comm & ment. Min 5 yrs exp. email resume to: DESIGNER • Denim able to reduce, clean, recolor prints Showrooms & Lofts oppty. Excellent benefits. Some travel follow-up skills, this is the job for you! [email protected] Major Denim Apparel Co. seeks exp’d. and color match. Must posses strong BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS required. Specify division interest: Creative work environment w/ good Jr. Denim Designer. with a minimum of organizational skills. Great opportunity Great ’New’ Office Space Avail men’s or ladies’. benefits. Fax resume: 212-869-5167 3 - 5 years experience in denim. E-mail and excellent benefits package. Pls ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Email: [email protected] resume to Sari at: [email protected] E-mail resume: [email protected] WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 29, 2007 23

DESIGNER OPERATION’S ASSISTANT SALES EXECUTIVE Movie Star Inc. is seeking an Operation’s Sportswear co. seeks an energetic sales Leading Dress Co. seeks aDesignerora Asst w/ min 2 yrs exp working in a design SWEET PEA professional. Must have major active credentialed Assistant to design dresses environment. You will be responsible Department/Specialty in all sizes. Great and separates for expanding business. Showroom. Fax resume to: 212-768-9058 Fax resume to: for working w/ multiple depts creating Specialty Store Account Exec 212-268-6838 & maintaining design sheets & related w/ 5 yrs exp. in contemporary- Email: [email protected] paperwork. The position will also involve DESIGNER creating & maintaining a Cost library market. Sales+Comm. for est’d of all raw materials. Must be process Sales/Marketing Manger Private Label Division of major contemp line. Trendsetting Costume Jewelry Co. seeks sportswear co. located in NYC seeks an oriented w/ good follow up & problem solving skills. Computer literate (Excel & a qualified candidate should with at least experienced designer. Must have min. Sales Executive 5 years experience in Sales & Marketing. 3 years experience, knowledge of MS Word) Fax resume w/ salary to HR at: Launch a better Division! Better (212) 684-3295 Must have strong communication skills domestic fabric market,efficient as Contemp Collection needs Sales with buyers and knowledge of fashion illustrator, communicate with overseas Exec. for Major & Better Specialty jewelry. Fax or E-mail or resumes to: factories and develop spec sheets. Patternmaker Assistant 212-216-0650 / [email protected] Competitive salary and benefit. Email Sidney Bernstein & Son, a division of Stores to work in Corp. Show- resume to: [email protected] Movie Star, Inc. is seeking an entry room. Great oppty! 5 yrs min exp. level pattern maker for intimate apparel. SALES PROFESSIONAL Designers Must have experience with 1st thru Only ambitious should apply. Leading Licensed Brand of Intimate production pattern. Also must be able Fax /email resume: Apparel seeks a highly motivated & to work independently in a high volume aggressive individual. Salary open. environment. Good communication and (305) 634-0077 Please Fax or E-mail resumes to: computer skills req’d. Fax resume with [email protected] (212) 481-5787 / [email protected] salary req’s to HR: (212) 684-3295 SHOWROOM SALES PLANNER/ANALYST La Regale a leading importer of social Fossil is currently searching for fashion occasion handbags seeks detail oriented forward & creative product Designers Fast paced Intimate Apparel Company HOTTEST INTIMATES salesperson with strong communication for the following design positions: seeking person with Wal-Mart exp. to skills and fashion sense to work in a fast assist with the account and monitor COMPANY ON paced environment. Work trade shows • Sr. Jewelry Designer- inventory both internally & at the retail MADISON AVENUE & follow-up on deliveries. Must have a level. Exp. in analysis, replenishment positive attitude and willingness to work Fossil Jewelry and forecasting. Must have Retail Link in all phases of the company. Training experience. Must be self-motivated, Native Intimates is provided. Computer skills are a must! • Textile/Print Designer detail orientated and organized. Please email your resume to: PLEASE SEND RESUMES TO: Established & Fast Growing [email protected] Interested applicants can apply [email protected] Intimate & Sleepwear Co. is directly online at www.fossil.com. looking for a sales person w/ V.P. of Sales Fossil is an Affirmative Action and 3-5 yrs exp. Intimate Private Label Business with successful Equal Opportunity Employer Apparel exp. a plus. Willing track record of selling Leather & Textile Design to pay top dollar for the best!! Outerwear to Department, Discount, and Wholesale Stores, etc. seeks a candidate Press Office Manager Recruiters welcome. willing to work out of our NYC show- Jewelry/Watch Designer Email resume: Amiee Lynn, a women’s accessories Co., The ideal candidate should be enthusi- room on 7th Ave., or a few days out of seeks a Jewelry/Watch Designer. Must astic & have 5 yrs experience in an in- [email protected] the head office in Long Island, depend- be an independent self starter with 5 yrs ternational luxury brand press office, ing on the schedule of appointments. exp. Illustrator & Photoshop a plus. Ideal Strong relationships w/ senior editors Salary + commission. Medical, 401K, candidate will design from concept to from major fashion magazines a must. TECH DESIGNER/ HSA. E-mail in resume & cover letter finished sample and communicate with Email resume: [email protected] PRODUCTION ASST in confidence to: [email protected] oversees factories. SEND RESUME TO: Fast paced Junior and Young Mens [email protected] Production Artist import co. seeks 2 highly motivated, NATIONAL KEY Leading women’s intimate apparel co detail oriented, organized individuals seeks an exp’d production artist to join w/ min 3 yrs exp & excellent commu- ACCOUNT SALES DESIGN/SALES OPPTY our team. Must be organized, detail La Regale, a leading importer of social nication skills in English, Chinese A+. Brahmin, a manufacturer of high quality oriented and well versed in creating TECH DESIGNER occasion handbags seeks an assertive, repeats and fixing art for production. handbags is seeking a dynamic indi- self motivated person with the ability Exp in grading, fitting, spec develop- vidual who will be instrumental in Must be proficient in Illustrator & ment, sample approval process, and to work independently. Involvement in Photoshop. Excellent benefits. Email growing established national retail sales & product. Opportunity to learn prep of tech packs. Must have knowl- accounts. As a national key account or fax resume with salary req to: edge of patternmaking, garment the business with tremendous growth [email protected] sales representative, working from our potential. Job responsibilities include construction, and able to flat sketch. headquarters in Fairhaven, MA, you 212-696-8450 PRODUCTION ASST BONGO tradeshow set up & attendance in addi- will be responsible in identifying and Cartier, the international retailer of tion to working with small stores. Learn Oversee all aspects of production COLD WEATHER analyzing revenue and profit opportu- scheduling from start to finish to luxury products, is seeking sales and all phases of product development Production Assistant Fast growing accessory company seeks nities across our account matrix. A sales management professionals for while contributing to the design effort. Girl’s Childrenswear Importer in ensure on time delivery for a multi- aggressive salesperson. Must have keen awareness of market and com- tude of cutting tickets for many differ- exciting opportunities in our New Computer skills are a must & travel is Manhattan seeking highly motivated contacts with Jr specialty chains and petitive analysis is necessary for suc- York City area boutiques. individual dealing with private label ent styles, size scales & requirements. dept stores in cold weather. required. Only serious applicants looking cess. You will also partner with our The Sales Manager is responsible for for a career need apply. Please e-mail production.Must be organized and Excellent opportunity and benefits. Please fax resume to 212-695-0925 marketing and design teams to help detail oriented. Excellent benefits. North Bergen, N.J. location. driving sales by motivating and assist- your resume to: [email protected] develop annual & long term strategic ing staff in reaching and exceeding Email resume to [email protected] Email resume: [email protected] planning that is consistent w/ the growth with salary and references. goals. The ideal candidate must have Fabric R & D Associate vision of the Brahmin corporation. at least 5 years of luxury watch and Premier girlswear importer has a growth Production/Designer Qualifications: jewelry sales experience; skill in man- oppty for a Fabric R & D Associate for Director of Sales • 5 years experience in retail/sales aging employees; ability to develop the Private Label division. Candidate SWEET PEA management and mentor as it relates to sales; excel- must have knowledge of textiles to assist Leading NYC sterling silver jewelry Has the following positions: In Miami Tech Designer to $100-125K BOE. brand seeks a Director of Sales & Mar- • Bachelors degree lent interpersonal, communication and in sourcing, development, quality con- Current exp on Web PDM w/ tech pkgs • Experience working in the apparel / computer skills. Must also be savvy in trol, & follow up with testing labs on •Cust Serv/Order Entry keting to lead sales for high end spe- of bras and panties. Midtown co. cialty store accounts. Luxury, branded accessories industry essential w/ solid dealing with high profile clients and approvals. This position will work closely •Cutting Room Mgr understanding of sales processes, possess ability to network. •Production Mgr 973-564-9236 or [email protected] jewelry background a must. 10+years with production, tracking all s/o’s, l/d’s, policies, and procedures The Sales Associate is responsible for sample developments & communicating •Asst Prod Mgr relevant exp w/ public relations, brand promotion, open new accounts, devel- • Proven experience making strategic representing the Cartier name by in- with overseas suppliers. Must be highly •Pattern Maker decisions based on understanding •Asst Designer op /implement sales & marketing plan. teracting with clients in the sale of organized & detail oriented in this fast the competitive marketplace, jewelry & watches; exceeding the paced environment. Strong computer TECHNICAL DESIGNER Excellent benefits & performance Fax or email resume to: package. [email protected] customers and retail trends. Company’s high customer service skills required in Word & Excel. 305-634-0077 [email protected] Ladies woven apparel company seeking • Strong knowledge of retail sales experienced senior tech designer. standards, cultivating strong client re- Walmart/Target experience a plus. analysis, planning, and retail math lationships; assisting with inventory Resumes should be submitted in Must be able to follow through from fluency Production/Purchasing Asst. development to production. Pattern and completing special projects as confidence to: [email protected] • Ability to travel up to 25% of the needed. The ideal candidate has previ- Detail oriented w/excellent follow-up & making knowledge is a plus. Good time, domestic and international communication skills required. ous sales experience, preferably in computer skills. Experience required. luxury products; has a strong under- Factory Mgr $60-80K. Exp in mens or Fax resume to: 212-278-0672 Overseas travel required. DO YOU HAVE STYLE? E-mail: [email protected] Please fax resume to: 212-382-2421 Or fax resume to: (508) 994-4153 standing of customer service needs womens woven shirts. Supervise 250 Put it to use as our new Sales Manager. and possesses excellent interpersonal sewers. Tech knowledge of construction Production Sourcing Mgr $150-175k. Attn: Tech Design Position Current exp in kidswear. Strong fol- We are an established accessory manu- and communication skills with the of better shirts. Will relo to North East. facturing company who is looking for SALES AGENT ability to multitask. 973-564-9236 or [email protected] lowing w/ factories in far east. Negotiate H.K/Shanghai based OEM apparel prices. Min 50 mil vol co req. Delivery an energetic, self starter with 2-3 years We offer a competitive compensation experience in women’s accessories. operation is expanding! Seek skillful to Wal-Mart experience necessary. C% sales & agent from US & Canada. and benefits package. For considera- Email: [email protected] Trim Buyer $65-75k. Min 1 year exp Industry contacts with retail buyers is tion please forward resume with salary Grader Marker $55-75K BOE. Current a real plus. This is a NYC based, Net 30 possible for factor-approved buying domestic/import for designer accounts. Contact Archi at: history via fax to 212-759-1857 or exp on Gerber required. Version 8 pre- Production Sourcing Mgr to $75-95K co. Must hang w/ Tahari, Vera Wang, salaried position with lots of upside ferred not nec. Growing Co. Call 973- [email protected] via email to BOE. Current exp in sourcing in Far R. Lauren, Michael Kohrs, Marc potential. Bring your style, passion, [email protected] 564-9236 or Email [email protected] East. Chinese Eng Bilingual. Super- Jacobs, etc. Email: [email protected] and motivation to our team. vise 4 prod coords. Travel to China two Please send resume to: SALES ASSOCIATE EOE, M/F/D/V times a year. [email protected] [email protected] Seeking an energetic, self-motivated GRAPHIC ARTIST sales associate to work in NYC bou- Legwear company is seeking a Graphic *Product or Production* tique of luxury fur brand. Must have Artist for Girls/ Juniors/ Womens Market. Assistants-Coordinators-Managers Visual Merchandiser established client book. Offering Must have strong drawing skills w/ Many Jobs-Excellent Salaries competitive compensation & benefits. awareness of trends, good color sense & Call (212)643-8090 Fax (212)643-8127 AGCY iZone Excellent Opportunity! Please e-mail resume to: merchandising knowledge. Must have National retailer of eyewear and Well est’d. NYC Men’s, Ladies’, and Boys’ [email protected] excellent Illustrator skills. Exp working RECEPTIONIST fashion accessories known for its Sleepwear/Robe Co. seeks an organized w/ Target, Wal-Mart & specialty stores. Est’d Childrenswear Co seeks an ener- entrepreneurial spirit and teamwork. & qualified Sales Service Representative Please email resume to: getic and organized receptionist for The job calls for creativity and design to work in our NYC office and support SALES e-mail: [email protected] [email protected] fast paced office/showroom. If you are skills coupled with analytical ability. our JCPenney account. Must have thor- Store Mgrs /Madison Av/Lux gds $75k+ or fax: 212-268-0543 a reliable, out-going team player with Candidate should have a college degree ough knowledge of JCPenney’s systems National Retail Dir /Lux exp $120k+ Sales Associates ability to multitask, let’s talk. Exp in related field and minimum of 5 and processes. Salary commensurate Accountant/Chargeback exp $50k+ 3 yrs+ exp in women’s luxury retail w/MS Word & Excel. Good benefits years exp. Email resume with salary with experience. Benefits & 401K. Please for New York City Flagship Boutique package. Fax: (212) 695-3847 or E-mail: req’s to: [email protected] Fax all resumes to: 646-304-8489 and for Greenwich, CT Boutique. HEAD DESIGNER [email protected] Sales Executive Base + commission + great benefits. Major apparel company seeks head Growing NY based Women’s Suit Importer Send resume: [email protected] designer for newborn, infant, toddler seeks Sales Pro. Must have strong account boys and girls-private label. Candidate Retail Planner $80-100K Current exp recruitment suppliers base with Dept./Chain Store private label. with experience targeting mass mer- Fax resumes to: 212-575-4651 chants like Wal-mart a plus. Individual in analysis, replenishment, forecasting must be organized and be able to work at apparel co. req’d. Retail-Link exp opportunities in a fast paced environment. Excellent helpful not nec. Aggressively growing salary benefits. kidswear co. [email protected] SALES EXECUTIVE PLEASE FAX RESUME TO: 212-202-7897 travel Mengna, world’s leading hosiery mfr., distributor, and exporter, is searching real estate for a SALES EXECUTIVE. Qualified Sales Assistant candidate must have a minimum of 5 Findings NY is seeking a highly moti- The ultimate real estate decision-makers, including years experience working with Hosiery/ INTIMATES vated, organized, and computer liter- Accessory buyers in national chains. Defi ning style. Openings for exp. TECH DESIGNERS, ate Sales Assistant. Must be able to owners, partners and CEOs, subscribe to WWD. We are seeking someone with hosiery CAD ARTISTS, PROD. DEVEL. Prof. multi-task, Fashion industry experi- product knowledge and who has been [email protected] ence a plus. Please E-mail resumes to: successful in growing a business inde- Delivering results. [email protected] pendently. Strong management skills Merchandiser/Product Devel to $125K and working experience with Far East Current exp in sourcing worldwide, factories is essential. We offer very accessories, jewelry or watches. Devel competitive salary and benefits package. Call 800-423-3314 or e-mail Samplemaker $600 a week + time & Call 1-800-423-3314 or email fpclassifi [email protected] to advertise. Please Fax or E-mail your resume and new products for est. co. Strong 1/2 overtime. Must have exp in expen- understanding of fashion trends in pop Source: WWD Subscriber Study, Beta Research Inc., 2005. salary history in confidence to: fpclassifi [email protected] sive designer dresses, suits, sprtswr. 212-852-9017 / [email protected] priced mrkt. [email protected] 973-564-9236 or [email protected] to advertise. Sarah Thorn Bud Konheim John Cheh Chris Lorusso Gary Ross Director, International President Vice Chairman Executive VP of Corporate VP, Trade, Federal Nicole Miller Ltd. Esquel Group Woven Production Global Manufacturing Government Relations Jones Apparel Group, and Sourcing Wal-Mart Stores Inc. Moderate Division Liz Claiborne Inc.

plus John Strasburger, VP of Sourcing, Americas, VF Corp., Julia K. Hughes, Senior VP, USA-ITA Global Sourcing. Join the editors of WWD for a one-day think tank offering 100 apparel executives practical methods to enhance their sourcing processes.

TOPICS TO INCLUDE: Finding the Best Partners and Countries • Speed to Market • Sourcing and Supply Chain Strategies • Improving Cost Effi ciency

Sponsored by:

For more information call 212.630.5926 or email [email protected]

•Sourcing_AD_Final_MECH_012607.i1 1 1/26/07 11:58:53 AM