THE NATIONAL PUBLICATION OF THE ACCESS FUND VOLUME 58, JUNE 2004
COPPER MINING PROPOSED AT QUEEN CREEK, ARIZONA
ADOPT-A-CRAG SEASON APPROACHES Queen Creek, AZ: A Call to Action Arizona has been at the forefront of Flat private and no longer subject to public modern rock climbing for many years. Its review. mild climate attracts climbers from all over We at the Access Fund have not been the world. Unfortunately, Arizona has also idle. We’ve worked closely with the local been at the forefront of restrictions and climbing community to create “Friends of closures significant to the climbing com- Queen Creek” (FOQC), a local climbers’ munity. In the late 1980's, Tonto National organization whose mission is retain- Forest closed the Superstition Wilderness ing public access to Oak Flat and the to fixed anchors and climbers began nego- larger Queen Creek area. We’ve actively tiations that continue today—to define engaged Resolution Copper, the US Forest what is and what’s not okay while climbing Service, and have organized meetings in federal designated wilderness areas. with local climbers and other interested Now another Arizona area, Queen parties. We’re currently working to meet Creek, home to the Phoenix Boulder Blast, with Arizona’s Congressional delegation is at the center of what could be the larg- about the proposed land swap, with the est loss of climbing in history. Resolution Governor of Arizona, and other officials Copper wants to mine the area for copper who have a stake in this matter. deposits, reputedly the richest deposits in Inside this issue you will read updates North America. Although the mining would from Jason Keith, Access Fund policy be done entirely underground, it could director, about what has been done and require closing the entire 760-acre Oak Flat how you can become involved on the local parcel and may result in as much as 300 and national level . feet of subsidence. This prime climbing We need your help to show our elected territory—thousands of bouldering prob- officials that climbers are united in the lems and hundreds of roped routes—could mission to protect Oak Flat access, and be lost forever! we need your membership support to While Resolution Copper has been fund the resources needed in what might appealing to the local population and be the single largest challenge ever faced elected officials through promises of by American climbers. jobs/$ and a better life, they’ve also been Call, email, or JOIN today: (303) 545-6672, pushing for a legislated land swap with the [email protected], www.accessfund.org US Congress. This type of exchange—sub- ject to much less public review and com- Steve Matous ment—would make the climbing at Oak Access Fund Executive Director
On the cover: Bouldering/sport climbing mecca or potential copper mine? Queen Creek, Arizona—an oasis for climbers and recreationists. Photo by John Heisel.
2 3 cause substantial ground subsidence requiring the area to be closed to public entry. The mine could affect hundreds of bouldering problems and roped routes, Arizona’s Oak Flat Threatened by Mining resulting in the largest ever loss of Proposal climbing resources in the US. Access to portions of Arizona’s Queen The Access Fund continues to work with Creek/Oak Flat area – home to the Phoenix the newly-formed Friends of Queen Creek BoulderBlast (formerly, the Phoenix (FOQC) to advocate for continue public Bouldering Contest) – may be lost forever access to the Oak Flat area, and identify if a mining proposal to extract billions possible outcomes and strategies to of dollars worth of high-grade copper is maintain climbing and bouldering access at approved. Resolution Copper’s proposed Oak Flat. The FOQC and AF Policy Director mine – believed to be the largest copper Jason Keith have met with officials from ore body in North America, and located Resolution Copper to explore alternatives thousands of feet beneath the US Forest whereby mining activity and climbing Service-managed Oak Flat area – could opportunities in the Queen Creek area can coexist. At this stage Resolution Copper has completed initial feasibility studies and begun “informal discussions” with the US Forest Service’s Tonto National Forest concerning the proposal. For more information call the Tonto National Forest in Phoenix, AZ at (602) 255-5200, log on to their website at www.fs.fed.us/r3/ tonto/indexy.html, or email the Tonto’s Deputy of Public Affairs Vincent Picard at [email protected]. The loss of Oak Flat access could also result from a proposed legislated land exchange, which could effectively take the public’s voice out of the approval process unless Congress is convinced otherwise. If you would like to help FOQC work for continued public access to Oak Flat, log onto www.accessfund.org/programs/ oakflat.htm. For more local information, check out www.friendsofqueencreek.com or email [email protected].
NPS Releases Report Analyzing Cost Recovery for High Altitude Rescues on Mt. McKinley, Denali National Park and Preserve The National Park Service (NPS) recently released a report ordered by Congress to complete a mountain climber rescue cost recovery study describing the role of John Heisel the NPS in search and rescue activities. Queen Creek, Arizona—home to the Phoenix Bouldering The study, which analyzes the suitability Blast and a winter destination for climbers worldwide. If and feasibility of recovering costs of Resolution Copper's plans proceed, 760 acres of public high altitude rescues on Mt. McKinley, land will be closed. recommends the following: (1) the cur-
2 3 Michael Kennedy
A recent mountain climber rescue cost recovery study by the National Park Service could lead to increased climber registration fees and force climbers to pay for rescues. rent policy of not charging for search Idaho congressional delegation (Senators and rescue activities be continued; (2) Craig and Crapo; Congressmen Simpson to reduce costs related to evacuating and Otter) signed onto a letter urging injured climbers, the NPS will work with a the National Park Service (NPS) to revise hospital in Anchorage regarding use of its the climbing management plan (CMP) at Lifeguard helicopter to transport injured the City of Rocks in Idaho and ease the climbers from the 7,200-foot basecamp absolute climbing ban on the Twin Sisters (the hospital would bill the patient directly formation. for this service); (3) that proof of medical The Twin Sisters (closed to climbing insurance should not be required (although since 1993) are the most prominent and the NPS will encourage climbers to carry recognizable rock formations at the City of medical insurance and provide information Rocks and provide unparalleled opportuni- about access to providers specializing in ties for rock climbers from around the climbing insurance); (4) registration should country. The Twin Sisters formation is be required for all climbers within Denali also a National Historic Landmark due to National Park and Preserve; and (5) in its association with the California Trail. In order to help recover costs for human 1993 the NPS initiated a Twin Sisters waste management studies, an additional Resource Study to evaluate the effects of $50 fee should be added to the current rock climbing on the formations’ historic $150 climber registration fee. The total values. Despite the NPS conclusion that fee for climbing Mt. McKinley or Mt. rock climbing had no significant measur- Foraker would then be $200. able effect on the geologic, natural or visual integrity of the historic resource at NPS To Reconsider the Twin Sisters Twin Sisters, the 1998 CMP for the City Climbing Ban at the City of Rocks, ID of Rocks prohibited climbing on the Twin In February the Access Fund’s Sisters to protect its historic “feeling and Policy Director Jason Keith traveled to association.” It is also worthwhile to note Washington DC to lobby on several issues, that power lines and a house are clearly in particular to seek support for reversing visible from the California Trail, while the climbing ban at Twin Sisters at the City climbers on Twin Sisters are not visible of Rocks National Reserve. As a result of from the Trail, even to the trained this advocacy work, all members of the eye. The 1998 CMP for the City of ☛ 4 5 Rocks is currently up for revision. The March 23, 2004 letter from Congress Vertical Times, April 2004, volume 57. The Access Fund is a national non-profit organization encouraged the NPS to implement a mul- dedicated to keeping climbing areas open and conserving tiple-use management plan providing for the climing environment. low-impact climbing activities consistent with NPS policies, and consider a balanced Board of Directors management approach for Twin Sisters President Becky Hall, CO in a revised CMP that provides climbing Dave Rosenstein, NJ Heather Furman, VT Jeff Holt, NJ opportunities while ensuring that appropri- Vice President Pat Jodice, SC ate historic values are protected. On April Mark Kroese, WA Gene Kistler, WV 19, 2004 the NPS responded to Congress Sam Lightner, Jr.,WY by stating that unrelated pressing manage- Secretary Marte Lightstone, NM Eric Hobday, UT Bob Margulis, WA ment issues have caused them to also John Myers, NC reconsider their policies on the Twin Sisters Treasurer Dan Nordstrom, WA closure. Accordingly, the NPS hopes Leslie Brown, WA Kurt Smith, TX to begin the process of amending the Jeff Widen, CO Lance Brock, TN Comprehensive Management Plan for the Tommy Caldwell, CO Honorary Board Members City of Rocks and to assess “if the decision Andrew Carson, WY Michael Kennedy, CO to ban climbing on the Twin Sisters remains Ken Cline, CO Armando Menocal, WY valid from a recreational and resource stew- Keith Cole, Washington, DC Bill Supple, VT ardship perspective.” Staff Executive Director Steve Matous . . . [email protected]
Development Director Heather Clark . . . [email protected]
Director of Major Gifts Michael Lindsey . . . [email protected]
Access & Acquisitions Director Shawn Tierney . . . [email protected]
Grassroots Coordinator Deanne Buck. . . [email protected]
Policy Director Jason Keith. . . . [email protected]
Publications Director John Heisel...... [email protected]
Membership Director Kerry Cowan. . . [email protected]
Director of Operations Cindy Trotter. . . . [email protected]
The Access Fund is a national, nonprofit organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open & conserving the climbing environment. Since its incorporation in 1990, the Access Fund has provided more than $2 million for climbing conservation and education across the US. We’ve paid for land purchases, climbers’ campgrounds, educational brochures, toilets, signs, and scientific research on climbers’ impact on birds of prey and cliff-dwelling plants. John Barstow Vertical Times is the membership newsletter of the Access Fund published six times a year in February, April, June, August, October, and As a result of recent Access Fund advocacy work, members December. of congress signed a letter urging the National Park Service to reverse the climbing management plan at the City of Access Fund ph: 3035456772 PO Box 17010 FAX: 3035456774 Rocks and ease the absolute climbing ban on the Twin Boulder, CO 80308 www.accessfund.org Sisters in Idaho. 4 5 Inner Canyon this spring. Brent Mims and others of the NPS installed seasonal fixed lines on the two Cruise Gully rap- Climbing Access Preserved in Arizona’s pels and the South Chasm View access McDowell Mountains Tyrolean, and upgraded the old hardware (Report by Erik Filsinger) on the Tyrolean. No new anchor stations The McDowell Mountains north of were created, but existing stations were Scottsdale, Arizona have long provided out- improved and equipped with 11mm standing granite cragging for Arizona climb- static line that will be checked periodically ers. Although difficult access issues were by rangers and removed each winter. resolved at Pinnacle Peak a few years Pulling ropes on the two Cruise Gully back (see www.phoenixrockgym.com/ rappels had contributed to both access pphist.htm), access to many other qual- bottlenecks in the gully and rockfall in the ity McDowell Mountains climbing spots landing zones, so in past years climbers remained uncertain due to sprawling golf often had fixed old beater ropes at these courses and housing developments. points. Mammut Ropes, working through In May Scottsdale voters approved a Climbing Magazine and the Access Fund, sales tax to fund land purchases in the donated a spool of burly 11mm static cord McDowell Mountain Sonoran Preserve that should keep the raps fresh and safe that will help pay for the construction for many seasons. Many thanks to all of access points and facilities to several involved. longstanding and popular climbing areas. Thanks to the hard work of the Arizona Bill Approved to Protect the NJ Highlands Mountaineering Club and the McDowell In a sweeping act reminiscent of the one Sonoran Land Trust, access is now that saved the Pinelands a quarter-century ensured to hundreds of climbing routes ago, the Legislature overwhelmingly in the McDowells at places such as Tom’s approved a bill to preserve the northern Thumb, Gardiner’s Wall, and Morrell’s Wall. Highlands and protect the water supply For more information, contact Carla at the for half the state. The passage of the bill McDowell Sonoran Land Trust Preserve: protects resources in the area. Decisions [email protected]. have not been finalized regarding climbing access. For more information, visit the Rappel Ropes Fixed in Black Canyon’s Highlands Coalition website at www.highl Cruise Gully andscoalition.org/ For general New Jersey (report by Jeff Achey) climbing access information, visit the Climbing rangers at Black Canyon Access NJ Climbs site at National Park, Colorado, upgraded several http://climbnj0.tripod.com/ heavily used technical passages in the
John Heisel
Mammut Ropes, working through Climbing Magazine and the Access Fund, recently donated a spool of 11mm static cord to replace rotting rappel ropes in the Cruise Gully of the Black Canyon, CO and keep climbers safe! 6 7 SUPPORT ACCESS TO OUTDOOR RECREATION! ACCESS FUND As summer approaches, Americans for our Heritage and Recreation (AHR) Merchandise is also kicking off its Land and Water members take 10% Off Conservation fund (LWCF) petition drive to the President. LWCF has been responsible for the creation of more than 40,000 parks and recreation areas ensuring access for Our stylish cap with the Access millions of Americans to get outdoors. Fund logo embroidered on the Additionally, it also protects open space, front. Velcro strap allows wilderness areas, wetlands, and refuges. adjustment to most sizes. We are simply asking the President to keep $15 his promise and fully fund LWCF. As LWCF faces decreased funding, it is imperative to let the President know that people rely on this program for outdoor recreation. Please go to www.asap2004.org today to sign our petition and join us in getting one million The Access Fund O’Piner is signatures by Labor Day so that we can an essential tool for twelve ensure all Americans enjoy the benefits of ounce curls after a day of rock LWCF! climbing! $8 Join Us at the Access Fund’s 2004 Annual Dinner in San Francisco Our annual dinner is a vital tool for building financial support to advance our NEW! Women's mission; keeping climbing areas open and “Mandala” t-shirt with conserving the climbing environment. Access Fund logo on the We rely solely on membership fees, front. Preshrunk. Fit for corporate sponsors, individual donors and women. (canary) foundations to fund our mission. This year’s Sizes S, M, L, XL. dinner will contribute resources for our key $20 initiatives. We hope you will join us for a wonderful evening of sharing adventures with friends about climbing in Yosemite. “Mandala” When: Thursday, September 23, 2004 T-shirt with Access Fund Where: San Francisco, Golden Gate Club, logo on the front. (blue or On The Presidio white) Who: Allen Steck, Hans Florine, Tommy Sizes S, M, L, XL. Caldwell and Beth Rodden; Access Fund $20 board members, staff and friends. What: An evening of dinner and conversa- tion with speakers from three generations sharing their climbing adventures in To order online, visit Yosemite. https://www.accessfund.org/secure/gear.pl or call 888-863-6237 x107. Invitations for the event and registration will be made available on the AF website. Hey Community Partners! You can order great Access Fund Gear at wholesale prices online: https://www.accessfund.org/ wholesale/gear.pl For more information, visit www.accessfund.org/events/annual_dinner.html 6 7 preserves an area that so many climb- ers enjoy. As owners of this important climbing resource, CRAG-VT takes its CRAG-VT Working to Protect the stewardship responsibilities seriously by “Vertical Trail” promoting safe and ethical climbing. With (Report submitted by Heather Furman, CRAG Vermont President the success of the Lower West acquisi- and Access Fund Board Member) tion, CRAG-VT has embarked on a second climbing resource access project. The Bolton Quarry has long been a regionally significant rock and ice climbing area. Once used during the construction of Interstate-89, the Quarry was abandoned upon its completion in the 1960’s. It has since developed into one of Northern In 1999 a group of local climbers came Vermont’s most important rock and ice together over the potential loss of access climbing locales. CRAG-VT is negotiating to a series of cliffs in northwestern to buy the Bolton Quarry and its surround- Vermont. Out of these meetings, the ing 30-acre parcel for recreational climbing, Climbing Resource Access Group of hiking, and wildlife habitat preservation. Vermont formed as a locally led, non- Working to secure access to the Bolton profit 501(c)(3) organization that works Quarry is a formidable task. The total toward maintaining access and promoting project cost is nearly $55,000. So far, the conservation of Vermont’s climbing with support from the national climbing resources. In the past several years, advocacy organization - the Access Fund, CRAG-VT has been building relationships area retailers such as Climb High, member with local landowners and land managers donors, and events such as the Everest throughout the state to assure continued Challenge Climbathon, CRAG-VT has made access to climbing areas that have seen significant steps toward achieving its goal. generations of use. For more information about CRAG-VT Virtually all of climbing areas in Vermont please visit our website: www.cragvt.org. are located on private land. Maintaining a Vermont tradition of allowing access to New Access Fund Affiliates private property, many landowners permit The Access Fund would like to welcome a wide range of recreational pursuits, the following climbing organizations that including climbing. However, the explosive have joined the Affiliate Partnership. We popularity of climbing is increasing the are very excited to formalize our relation- use of these privately owned lands, mak- ship with the climbing organizations that ing landowners hesitant to maintain their perform such great work at the local and open-door policy. Lack of knowledge about regional levels. In joining together, our legal liability and protection, and greater goal is to not only strengthen the Access pressure on the more popular climbing Fund’s relationship with local climbing areas, are beginning to threaten access to organizations, but also to strengthen all of these privately owned lands. Over the past our advocacy efforts, as well. decade, several landowners have posted There truly is strength in numbers and, their property, removing some of the most through our unified effort, we can make a dif- beautiful and exciting cliffs from the cur- ference for the preservation of climbing access rent repertoire of available crags. and conservation of the climbing environment. As a result, CRAG-VT works with land- We are looking forward to a long-term and owners in different ways to secure access mutually beneficial relationship. to these vertical trails; from handshake agreements, to outright purchase of Boise Climbers Alliance property. In May 2003, CRAG-VT received Boone Climbers Coalition 5-acre land donation that includes the cliffs Carolina Climbers Coalition at Lower West Bolton. This acquisition CRAG-Vermont has permanently secured access, and ☛ 8 9 Eastern Iowa Climbers’ Coalition Adopt-a-Crag Events (as of 6/04) Gunks Climbers’ Coalition • 8/21 Anchorage, AK. Seward Kootenai Climbers- Idaho Highway Adopt-a-Crag, Wayne Fuller, NJAccess [email protected] Pennsylvania Alliance of Climbers • 9/04 Brevard, NC. Adopt-a-Crag at Looking Glass Rock, contact Adam Fox, Ragged Mountain Foundation [email protected] Salt Lake Climbers Alliance • 9/11 Hager’s Mountain, Cary, NC. 3rd San Diego Climbers Coalition Annual Hager’s Mountain Adopt-a-Crag, Southern Sierra Climbers Association Roger May, [email protected] Western Massachusetts Climber’s Coalition • 9/11 8am, Cody, WY. Shosone River Canyon Clean-Up, Kenny Gasch, See the AF LCO page at: [email protected] accessfund.org/whoweare/who_lco.html • 9/11 Lafayette, GA. Lost Wall Trail for a list of Affiliate websites/links. If you Day, Pigeon Mountain, Bryan Raffield, are a grassroots, volunteer-based climb- [email protected] ing organization, association, or access • 9/11 Monticello, IA. 7th Annual Wild committee, we encourage you to sign Iowa-Pictured Rocks Adopt-a-Crag Clean- up, Evan Fales, [email protected] up as an Access Fund Affiliate. For more • 9/11 Sandrock, AL. Sandrock Adopt-a-Crag, information, please contact Deanne, Michelle Connell, [email protected] grassroots coordinator at 303.545.6772 • 9/18 Great Falls Park, VA. Adopt-a- ext 112 or [email protected]. Crag at Great Falls Park, Thomson Ling, [email protected] Adopt-a-Crag 2004 • 9/18 Pinnacle, NC. Adopt-a-Crag at Pilot This year, the Access Fund is taking Mountain State Park, Michael Pinkston Adopt-a-Crag to new heights! Our goal is (Mr. P), [email protected] to support 89 Adopt-a-Crags around the • 9/18 Lewis and Clark State Park, OR. country. If we were to climb Yosemite’s Adopt-a-Crag at the Bluffs, Tony Holmes, Salathe Wall (35 pitches), The Nose (31 [email protected] pitches), and Half Dome, Northwest Face • 9/18 Rocky Butte, OR. Rocky (23 pitches) in a day, we would complete Butte Rendezvous, Kellie Rice, [email protected] 89 pitches of climbing. Of course, we can’t • 9/18 Iron Gate, Clifton Forge, VA. do it alone. We need your help to reach Roanoke College Adopt-a-Crag, Mr. P, this goal. Presently, there are 21 events. [email protected] We have just moved off “Thank God • 9/18 Dragons Tooth, VA. Dragons Ledge” on Half Dome, and with your help Tooth Adopt-a-Crag, “Mr. P, we will top-out soon. [email protected] Consider Adopt-a-Crag as an avenue for • 9/18 Salem, VA. Hanging Rock Adopt-a- building alliances and partnerships and to Crag, Mr. P, [email protected] plan for the future. Adopt-a-Crag inspires • 9/18 Roanoke, VA. McAfee’s activism, advocacy, volunteerism, and Knob Adopt-a-Crag, Mr. P, stewardship. This national conservation [email protected] effort promotes a sense of respect and • 9/19 Clifton, ME. Clifton Adopt-a-Crag, responsibility and provides a means of giv- Paul Stern, [email protected] ing back to climbing areas. • 9/25 Anacortes, WA. Mount Erie This year we have expanded Adopt- Adopt-a-Crag hosted by Cascade a-Crag to encompass the entire month Guiding Services, Scott Harder, of September. We made this change to [email protected] encourage organizers to schedule their • 9/25 Santa Barbara, CA. Gibralter Rock Adopt-a-Crag event on a day that works Adopt-a-Crag Clean-Up hosted by UCSB best for their community and to partner Adventure Programs, Rod Tucknott, with other organizations. You can obtain [email protected] all your Adopt-a-Crag information and • 10/02 Castlewood Canyon State Park, register on the AF website. For more CO. 2nd Annual Castlewood Clean-Up, information, contact Deanne, grassroots Todd Mayville, [email protected] • 10/10 Coopers Rock, WV. Coopers Rock, coordinator at 303.545.6772 ext 112 or Greg Corio, [email protected] [email protected]. 8 9 names and address, and phone numbers, and begin to network. Invite the park staff Michael Pinkston ("Mr. P"), President and take a few minutes to ask what other of the Carolina Climbers' Coalition & projects could we help you with. Adopt-a-Crag Aficionado DB: Is there anybody you want to thank for helping you organize your events? Deanne Buck: What can you tell us about MP: The willingness of park officials, land the success of your Adopt-a-Crag events? managers, private land owners and federal Mr. P: A genuine passion for the sport in land managers to work with the AF, and all its forms, combined with and unbridled individual climbing leaders have been enthusiasm, as well as a strong desire to invaluable and very instrumental in the bring the opposing camp together seem overall success of each event. However, to be some of the elements which have it is the climbers and activists who come contributed to my over all success. As a together giving a consolidated effort to climber of almost forty years, I’ve always make climbing areas a place where future been active in climbing and environmental generations of climbers enjoy. Without the issues. Much of my early climbing was in individual climber who freely gives of their Europe where it was easy to get involved time, skill and effort, we would be in the in the Alpine Club, or the UIAA. I arrived Stone Age. I would like to thank the AF for back in the states just about the time the their visionary thinking and I would defi- Access Fund (AF) was getting started. nitely like to thank all the sponsors who Those who know me would call me freely give products to help make each enthusiastic if nothing else. I’ve always individual event a huge success. had a tendency to throw myself into a DB: Why should climbers join the AF? project 100%. As a lone climber, I knew MP: Belonging is a natural part of human that I could accomplish something, but nature. As a member of the AF, you’re with the AF, it made it much easier to declaring your intention to become part introduce myself and say that I am a rep- of a much larger group of climbers. When resent of the AF a nationally recognized I think of all the complex and different climbers advocacy group. Lots of genuine climbing disciplines within our climbing handshakes eventually led to meetings community, I can only think of one orga- and the beginning of positive relationships nization, which celebrates the complexity between land managers and climbers. and diversity of the whole climbing com- DB: What is your motivation to host/ munity. Joining the AF is not like any other organize Adopt-a-Crag Events? organization you will ever be a part of. As MP: It’s no secret that climbers have got- a member of the AF, climbers can become ten a bad rap from just about every media directly involved in the future of climbing. source. They say climbers are reckless, To date, there is no other organization irresponsible, and antisocial. The Adopt-a- on the planet that is solely dedicated to Crag events have given climbers a chance the expressed interest of climbers and to meet land managers and in may cases their future. For the most part the AF build lasting relations between officials represents the voice of reason in an oth- and climbers. Organizers of Adopt-a-Crag erwise insane world where land managers events are in many ways ambassadors of seemed determined to close access to knowledge and good will. cliffs, and climbers battle for the right DB: What can people do to be stewards to climb. I view the AF as a reasonable of their local climbing areas outside of bridge between bureaucracy and climbers’ Adopt-a-Crag? rites. Throughout the country individual MP: The Adopt-a-Crag event is just the climbing coalition groups have begun beginning. It’s great to have a single day to spring up as a result of the threat of to conduct a clean up. Following the event closures looms in, however, and with few have a party, get to know the climber, get exception it is the AF who time and time
10 11 again has helped work out a reasonable I’ve planed and participated in Adopt-a- resolution to many closure thought the Crag events I’ve noticed that this single United States. So, why should climbers event has begun to galvanize the climbing join the AF? Because for the first time in community. For the first time there is a climbing history we have become a pow- unifying theme, which can unite climber erful voice for the future of climbing. or all kinds and begins to bring focused Because, regardless of which climbing attention to climbing as a sport with an camp you find yourself in—Bouldering, ever-growing population. We need to take Sport, Trad, Big Wall, Alpine or Ice, the AF this program to the next level by getting is there for you the individual climber. As political support and activism. We can no climbing continues to grow we need a flag longer stand in the shadows protecting our pole to rally around from time to time, a private crag or boulder field. Our future lies place that gives us a center of gravity if in our ability to organize and become part you will. The AF is our organization and our of the solution. We have already begun in representation and is our future. So, who many cases with our grassroots organiza- should join the AF? Everyone who owns tions, but we need to do more in order a chalk bag, has taped their fingers, has to protect our environment and the rock climbing shoes, grips an ice ax or places we so dearly love. One of the best ways a cam in rock. Everyone who climbs in a to begin is by becoming a member of the gym, or part of an outdoor climbing club or AF. I would like to close with a challenge would like to become a climber. Everyone. to all who read this article. This year’s The more members, the more lobbying goal for Adopt-a-Crag events has been set power the AF has. While development in between 80-100. I believe that this goal climbing will continue to astound mere should be doubled. What kind of message mortals, the AF will remain steadfast to do you think we could send if this year we protect the rights of all climbers. host more than 200 Adopt-a-Crag events DB: What do you think of the cost to join across the United States! the AF? MP: This is our organization, and regard- less of the type of climbing you enjoy all climbers should become members of the AF. To put it in terms climbers can understand: Some chalk bags cost more than it cost to join the AF. For a fraction of what you pay for a rope, you can become a member of the AF. Most cams cost more than it takes to sign up for the AF. Crash pads may very well save you from a bad fall, but by joining the AF you can always help to assure that you will have a place to boulder. You can’t even get a good ice screw for what it takes to pay a years membership into the AF. Climbers need to put their priorities in order when getting started, so include in your new starter kit which include a harness, carabiner, belay device, chalk bag, chalk, shoes, and an AF membership. Climbing gear wears out and climbers get old, but your membership in the AF will continue to grow and help shape the future of our sport. DB: Any last thoughts? Michael Pinkston ("Mr. P.") after leading the classic MP: During the last four years where Sentinel Butress at Moore's Wall. 10 11 The Access Fund Responds: In April the Access Fund signed onto a joint letter supporting the Forest Note: The opinions expressed below are not necessarily those of Service’s intent to “develop new policies the Access Fund and regulations to address unmanaged OHV Thoughts off-road vehicle use and the growing I just wanted to write, as an Access negative consequences of such use.” The Fund member and off-highway-vehicle Access Fund’s mission serves to protect enthusiast, to let you know my feelings all types of climbing environments: from on the issue. It seems to me it’s only urban sport crags to alpine big walls, from a matter of time before the Sierra Club highly used bouldering areas to isolated and other “hikers only if that” types of wilderness routes. Preserving the oppor- environmental groups get all of the other tunity to experience backcountry climbing types of users to gang up on each other without the noise of motorized activity is to the point of extinction. Can’t you just just as important to the Access Fund as see letters going out to rafter, hiker, and protecting the qualities of industrial sport mountain biker advocacy groups saying climbing located next to busy highways. “Climbers are the biggest threat to our The letter the Access Fund signed wilderness, let’s get rid of them! Write to the USFS represented our efforts to your congressman today!” Well that’s the preserve the character of existing back- kind of thing Access Fund members can’t country climbing by supporting some stand. So...why would we want to kick level of management of what is currently out another user group from our national unmanaged OHV use. The AF doesn’t lands? “oppose” motorized recreation – nearly Climbers and OHV users are more simi- all climbers enjoy the benefits of motor- lar than we are different: outsiders don’t ized vehicles when approaching their understand either group very well, both climbing objectives. Rather, we seek to are seen (legitimately) as destroyers of protect climbing experiences that share the pristine state of wilderness, both feel “fresh air, clean water, wild plants and (legitimately) that they do more to help animals, inspiration, and natural quiet and nature than others, and both are being backcountry character.” This letter did not evicted from some of their favorite historic ask the Forest Service to close any roads places for recreation. or even prohibit the establishment of new Don’t think OHV users are environmen- motorized routes. Rather, we urged the tally responsible? Have you ever seen a USFS to develop policies to address “ille- trail cleanup organized by these guys? I gal trespass, unauthorized route creation, guarantee that we haul out a lot more gar- safety concerns and user conflicts, [and] bage in our pickup beds than we climbers undue damage and disturbance to sensi- can put in our pockets and backpacks! tive habitat and resources.” I believe that all of the user groups need The AF believes that public land man- to work together for responsible use of agement agencies have a responsibility the same areas regardless of our chosen to manage activities (recreational or oth- form of recreation, or we will ALL end up erwise) that impair otherwise legitimate fighting each other uselessly and have uses of public lands. This includes ATVs, fewer venues for our favorite activities. jeeps, motorcycles – and climbers. We To you and all the AF staff, keep up your at the AF agree with you that “all user great work protecting our access and groups need to work together for respon- I’ll keep buying memberships, Adopting sible use of the same areas regardless of Crags, and encouraging others to do the our chosen form of recreation.” Thanks for same. supporting the Access Fund.
Greg Jason Keith Via Email Access Fund Policy Director
12 13 Available Online MEMBERSHIP INCENTIVE PROGRAM! Receive the Access Fund E-News As a contributing member in 2004, you’ll notice excit- Keep informed about climbing access through this ing new benefits free monthly electronic newsletter. To subscribe, when you join or renew at a $50.00 minimum. visit www.accessfund.org and enter your E-mail (The tax-deductible amount of your contribution is limited address at the bottom of the home page. to the excess of money over the value of goods received.)
To view the current issue of the AF E-News: $1000 and up accessfund.org/virtual_times/index.html Maxim 200’ Rope & AF T-shirt
Value=$135 Access and Conservation Access Fund Member Handbook Online The Member Handbook is a complete source of information about access issues, Access Fund pro- grams, letter writing and other advocacy tools, and a primer on ways to get involved at your local crags. $500 Look inside for: North Face Redpoint Jacket & AF T-shirt
- Tips for writing political action letters. Value=$75 - What to do about climbing access problems - Guidelines about how to climb responsibly.
- Download the PDF file at: accessfund.org/pdf/memb-handbook.pdf
$250 Black Diamond Vertical Times Also Online Headlamp & AF Vertical Times, the Access Fund’s bimonthly T-shirt print newsletter, provides news on policy, area Value=$30 reports, events, action alerts, grants, and more. It is a benefit to members and non-members alike—if you are not a member, please join at www.accessfund.org. The AF is now offering this unique publication electronically to decrease printing and mailing costs, thus allocating more $100 Subscription to Outside funds to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. If & AF you choose to take part in this effort, and cease T-shirt shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, Value=no taxable please E-mail your name and address with value “Remove Vertical Times” as the subject to:
Presently, over 1400 members have chosen our $50 AF “Mandala” online option — a savings to the Access Fund of T-shirt $4200 per year to be utilized in protecting YOUR Value=no taxable CLIMBING FUTURE. value
To view back issues of Vertical Times as PDF files, please visit: Stay tuned for updated MIP items accessfund.org/vertical_times/ coming this July!
12 13 ACCESS FUND CORPORATE PARTNERS Initiated in 1991, this program consists of 100 businesses dedicated to preserving America’s diverse climbing resources. After each company’s name appears the year it became a corporate partner. Please support these companies, which support YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE.
Featured Corporate Partner — prAna “Access is one of the most important issues facing us as climbers,today. Whether it be on the local, regional or national level, time and time again the Access Fund has risen to the occasion and responded with clarity and conviction. More than just working progressively towards solutions that work, the Access Fund serves as a community builder, creating relationships and dialogues where they otherwise might not be. This is an extremely important function in our community, one in which deserves all the support we can muster.”
Beaver Theodosakis, prAna CEO
DIAMOND – $20,000+ Lowe Alpine Systems – 1991 Black Diamond Equipment – 1991 Montrail – 2002 Backpacker – 2004 New Belgium Brewing Co. – 2000 Climbing – 1991 Phoenix Rock Gym – 1997 Galyan’s – 1999 Pusher/Cordless/S7 – 1998 Haynes and Boone LLP – 2003 Redpoint, Inc. – 2000 REI – 1991 Rock & Snow, Inc. – 2003 Rock & Ice – 1993 Schwartz Communications, Inc. – 2003 URBAN CLIMBER MAGAZINE – 2004 SuperTopo.com – 2003 Thule – 2003 PLATINUM – $10,000+ Ultimate Ascents International – 2003 CLIF Bar – 1995 VooDoo Holds – 2001 Petzl/Charlet Moser – 1991 Yates Gear – 1993 prAna – 1995 The North Face – 1995 CONTRIBUTING – $500+ Advanced Base Camp – 1992 GOLD PLUS – $7,500+ Alpine Ascents International – 1998 Archer Law Offices P.C. – 2003 Anker Climbing Equipment – 2003 MSR / Therm–a–Rest – 1995 Avery Brewing Company – 1998 Nike ACG – 2002 AZ on the Rocks – 2003 W.L. Gore – 1991 Bearing Images – 2000 ClimbingBoulder.com – 2001 GOLD – $5,000+ Excalibur DMM/Wild Country/Red Chili USA – 1995 Campmor – 1991 Flannel Design – 2001 Climb High/Mammut – 1991 GearExpress.com – 2003 La Sportiva – 1994 Higher Ground Roasters – 2003 Maxim Ropes – 1992 JustRopes.com – 2004 Nalgene – 1992 Kind Coffee – 2003 Omega Pacific Mountaineering – 1992 Kristin Carpenter Public Relations – 2003 Outdoor Research – 1999 Moonstone Mountain Equipment – 2003 Patagonia – 1992 Mountaineers Books – 1992 The Spot Bouldering Gym – 2003 Mountain Madness – 2000 Trango USA & Stonewear Designs – 1992 Mountainsmith – 2003 Weathered Stone – 1999 Mountain Tools – 1991 Nicros – 1997 SILVER – $2,500+ Osprey – 2003 All Terrain – 2003 Outland Mountain Shop – 2003 Arc'teryx – 1998 PMI – 1991 BlueWater – 1992 Pacific Edge Climbing Gym – 1995 Boulder Rock Club – 1996 Phoenix Bouldering Comp – 1997 Dana Design – 2003 Real Cheap Sports – 2003 FalconGuides – 1998 Royal Robbins – 1992 Gregory Mountain Products – 1993 Saltic Climbing/Trekking – 2003 Marmot – 1999 Sickle Climbing – 2001 Metolius – 1991 The Magic Line – 2004 Misty Mountain Threadworks – 1994 2Trails.com – 2002 Mountain Gear – 1995 Tom K. Michael, D.D.S., P.S. – 2000 Mountain Hardwear – 1996 Travel Country Outdoors – 2002 Salomon – 2003 Verve – 1996 Sterling Rope – 1994 Touchstone Climbing Inc. – 2002 MEDIA PARTNERS Vasque – 2003 Alpinist – 2003 Blue Ridge Outdoors Magazine – 1997 MAJOR – $1,000+ Coreyography – 2002 Amadeus Consulting Group – 2004 Dan Bailey Photography – 2002 American Bouldering Series – 2000 Dr. Topo.com – 2003 Asolo – 2003 GetBeta.com – 2004 Big Up Productions – 2003 Hooked On Outdoors – 2002 Bluetrope Consulting – 2003 Integrity 7 – 2004 CAMP USA – 2004 Ousley Creative – 2001 ClimbersRock.com – 2003 Patitucci Photo – 2003 Cloudveil – 1998 Second Chance Films – 2004 Crazy Creek Products – 1992 She Sends – 2004 Gripped Magazine – 2004 Vbouldering - 2004 14 15 Events & Thanks Event Calendar VOLUNTEERING, Hager’s July Mountain, Looking Glass Rock, 7/08-7/11 Lander, WY, International Climbers Lost Rocks, Great Falls Park, Festival, [email protected], Pilot Mountain State Park, www.climbersfestival.org, Jennifer Barrett, CONSERVATION, Mount Erie, 307-349-1561 Joshua Tree, Flatirons, Lincoln
Thanks for your support through general Woods, Sand Rock, Queen Creek, events and projects Stoney Point, Echo Cliffs, Love Lost, Paul Fish & Mountain Gear for the Red Mission Gorge, CELEBRATION, Rocks Rendezvous, Sig Hepp, Jr., The Outing Ragged Mountain, Tallulah Gorge, Club, EMS-CT, Mat Erpelding, Texas Tech Pigeon Mountain, Ross Park, Acadia University-Outdoor Pursuits Center, Texas National Park, Moore’s Wall, El Rito, A&M University, Suzanne Rester, Robert Penn, COMMUNITY, Fremont Canyon, Hampshire College Outdoor Program, James Red River Gorge, New River, Obed, Wallish & Scott Williams, Vertical Endeavors, Gunks, Acker Rock, Rodeo Wall, Jim Waugh, 21st Phoenix Boulder Blast, New Belgium Brewing Company, Paul Dief, Robb Castle Hill, Pictured Rocks, EVENTS Shurr, Ojai Int., Heath Norton, Vbouldering, NATIONWIDE, Indian Creek, Stefan Bergill, Patagonia Beneficial T’s, IZZE, Grand Ledges, Devil’s Lake, Zion, Katie Brown, Hans Florine, all who attended El Capitan, Buttermilks, Granite the Boulder Project meeting at the PBB, Mountain, Boat Rock, Enchanted Jeremy Graham, Aspen Rec. Dept, Pam & Rock, RELATIONSHIPS, Austin Chris Schmick & Jody Pollack, Upper Limits, Greenbelt, Reimer’s Ranch, Donner Jungle Gym Sport Climbing, Mike Libecki, Pass, Black Cliffs, Happy and Sad University of Tennessee-Rec Sports Dept., Boulders, Farley Ledges, White Brett Davis & Frank Harvey, Katie Wright & Steve Davis, Summit Canyon Mountaineering, Rock, Smith Rocks, GIVING BACK, David Schlosser & Rocknasium, Tommy Pawtuckaway State Park, Beacon Caldwell & Beth Rodden, Peter Ackroyd, Rock, Quincy Quarries, State Park, American Alpine Club - Cascade Section, Bob Eldorado State Park, Sailing Hawks, Adams, The Challenge Rock Climbing School, American Fork, PARTNERSHIPS, Jennifer Jordan & Jeff Rhoads, Dray, Gary and Castlewood, Wichita Mountains, the staff at Neptune Mountaineering, Brad Raven’s Notch, Tettegouche State McLeod, Southeastern Climbers Coalition, Park, Echo Cliffs, STEWARDSHIP, Carolina Climbers Coalition, Boone Climbers Gibralter, Mission Gorge, Garden of Coalition. the Gods, Sitting Bull Falls, Please welome the new Corporate Partners YOUR FAVORITE CRAG______? Backpacker Magazine, Amadeus Consulting Group, CAMP USA, JustRopes.com, GetBeta.com.
Special thanks for joining or renewing as a WWW.ACCESSFUND.ORG Community Partner Outek, Mizzou Climbing Club, Hampshire College Outdoor Program, International Wilderness Adventures, Kern River Rock, LLC, Little Rock Climbing Center, The Climbers Title Presenting Supporting Association of Colorado College. Sponsor Sponsor Sponsor
14 15 The Access Fund PO Box 17010 Boulder, CO 80308
ADDRESS SERVICE REQUESTED
LOCAL CLIMBING ORGANIZATIONS LCO’s are volunteer-based climber organizations working in collaboration with the Access Fund to preserve access and conserve the climbing environment at the local or regional level. LCO’s also support the Access Fund through events and membership drives. To add your LCO to this list, E-mail [email protected]. For links to websites of these LCOs, visit www.accessfund.org/whoweare/who_lco.html
Alabama Kentucky Oklahoma Alabama Climbers' Association Kentucky Rock and Sports Trust Wichita Mountains Climbers Coalition Southeastern Climbers Coalition Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition Southeastern Climbers Coalition Oregon Arizona AAC - Oregon Section Access Committee Arizona Mountaineering Club Ohio Mazamas Friends of Queen Creek Ohio Climbers Association Smith Rock Climbers Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition Tucson Climbers Association Massachusetts Pennsylvania Explorers Club of Pittsburgh Appalachian Mountain Club - Boston Chapter Arkansas Manayunk Climbing Alliance Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition Southeastern Climbers Coalition Pennsylvania Alliance of Climbers
California Michigan South Carolina Boulder Clean - Joshua Tree Bouldering Group Grand Ledges Climbers Coalition Carolina Climbers Coalition Cragmont Climbing Club Southeastern Climbers Coalition Friends of Joshua Tree Missouri Friends of Pinnacles Climbers Alliance of Mid-Missouri South Dakota San Diego Climbers Coalition Black Hills Climbers Coalition Eastern Sierra Climbers Coalition Minnesota Southern Sierra Climbers Association Minnesota Climbers Association Tennessee Southeastern Climbers Coalition Canada Nevada Climbers Access Society of British Columbia Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council Texas Central Texas Mountaineers Colorado New Mexico Climbers of Hueco Tanks Action Committee for Eldorado CRAG-New Mexico Texas Mountaineers Flatirons Climbing Council Utah New Jersey Connecticut Salt Lake Climbers Alliance NJAccess Ragged Mountain Foundation Vermont Georgia New York CRAG-VT Southeastern Climbers Coalition Gunks Climbers Coalition Washington Idaho North Carolina Washington Climbers Coalition Boise Climbers Alliance Boone Climber's Coalition Kootenai Climbers Carolina Climbers Coalition West Virginia Pisgah Climbers Association New River Alliance of Climbers Illinois Southeastern Climbers Coalition Southeastern Climbers Coalition Illinois Climbers Association Ohio Wisconsin Iowa Ohio Climbers Association Wisconsin Outdoor Access Eastern Iowa Climbers Coalition 16