THE NATIONAL PUBLICATION OF THE ACCESS FUND VOLUME 58, JUNE 2004 COPPER MINING PROPOSED AT QUEEN CREEK, ARIZONA ADOPT-A-CRAG SEASON APPROACHES Queen Creek, AZ: A Call to Action Arizona has been at the forefront of Flat private and no longer subject to public modern rock climbing for many years. Its review. mild climate attracts climbers from all over We at the Access Fund have not been the world. Unfortunately, Arizona has also idle. We’ve worked closely with the local been at the forefront of restrictions and climbing community to create “Friends of closures significant to the climbing com- Queen Creek” (FOQC), a local climbers’ munity. In the late 1980's, Tonto National organization whose mission is retain- Forest closed the Superstition Wilderness ing public access to Oak Flat and the to fixed anchors and climbers began nego- larger Queen Creek area. We’ve actively tiations that continue today—to define engaged Resolution Copper, the US Forest what is and what’s not okay while climbing Service, and have organized meetings in federal designated wilderness areas. with local climbers and other interested Now another Arizona area, Queen parties. We’re currently working to meet Creek, home to the Phoenix Boulder Blast, with Arizona’s Congressional delegation is at the center of what could be the larg- about the proposed land swap, with the est loss of climbing in history. Resolution Governor of Arizona, and other officials Copper wants to mine the area for copper who have a stake in this matter. deposits, reputedly the richest deposits in Inside this issue you will read updates North America. Although the mining would from Jason Keith, Access Fund policy be done entirely underground, it could director, about what has been done and require closing the entire 760-acre Oak Flat how you can become involved on the local parcel and may result in as much as 300 and national level . feet of subsidence. This prime climbing We need your help to show our elected territory—thousands of bouldering prob- officials that climbers are united in the lems and hundreds of roped routes—could mission to protect Oak Flat access, and be lost forever! we need your membership support to While Resolution Copper has been fund the resources needed in what might appealing to the local population and be the single largest challenge ever faced elected officials through promises of by American climbers. jobs/$ and a better life, they’ve also been Call, email, or JOIN today: (303) 545-6672, pushing for a legislated land swap with the [email protected], www.accessfund.org US Congress. This type of exchange—sub- ject to much less public review and com- Steve Matous ment—would make the climbing at Oak Access Fund Executive Director On the cover: Bouldering/sport climbing mecca or potential copper mine? Queen Creek, Arizona—an oasis for climbers and recreationists. Photo by John Heisel. 2 3 cause substantial ground subsidence requiring the area to be closed to public entry. The mine could affect hundreds of bouldering problems and roped routes, Arizona’s Oak Flat Threatened by Mining resulting in the largest ever loss of Proposal climbing resources in the US. Access to portions of Arizona’s Queen The Access Fund continues to work with Creek/Oak Flat area – home to the Phoenix the newly-formed Friends of Queen Creek BoulderBlast (formerly, the Phoenix (FOQC) to advocate for continue public Bouldering Contest) – may be lost forever access to the Oak Flat area, and identify if a mining proposal to extract billions possible outcomes and strategies to of dollars worth of high-grade copper is maintain climbing and bouldering access at approved. Resolution Copper’s proposed Oak Flat. The FOQC and AF Policy Director mine – believed to be the largest copper Jason Keith have met with officials from ore body in North America, and located Resolution Copper to explore alternatives thousands of feet beneath the US Forest whereby mining activity and climbing Service-managed Oak Flat area – could opportunities in the Queen Creek area can coexist. At this stage Resolution Copper has completed initial feasibility studies and begun “informal discussions” with the US Forest Service’s Tonto National Forest concerning the proposal. For more information call the Tonto National Forest in Phoenix, AZ at (602) 255-5200, log on to their website at www.fs.fed.us/r3/ tonto/indexy.html, or email the Tonto’s Deputy of Public Affairs Vincent Picard at [email protected]. The loss of Oak Flat access could also result from a proposed legislated land exchange, which could effectively take the public’s voice out of the approval process unless Congress is convinced otherwise. If you would like to help FOQC work for continued public access to Oak Flat, log onto www.accessfund.org/programs/ oakflat.htm. For more local information, check out www.friendsofqueencreek.com or email [email protected]. NPS Releases Report Analyzing Cost Recovery for High Altitude Rescues on Mt. McKinley, Denali National Park and Preserve The National Park Service (NPS) recently released a report ordered by Congress to complete a mountain climber rescue cost recovery study describing the role of John Heisel the NPS in search and rescue activities. Queen Creek, Arizona—home to the Phoenix Bouldering The study, which analyzes the suitability Blast and a winter destination for climbers worldwide. If and feasibility of recovering costs of Resolution Copper's plans proceed, 760 acres of public high altitude rescues on Mt. McKinley, land will be closed. recommends the following: (1) the cur- 2 3 Michael Kennedy A recent mountain climber rescue cost recovery study by the National Park Service could lead to increased climber registration fees and force climbers to pay for rescues. rent policy of not charging for search Idaho congressional delegation (Senators and rescue activities be continued; (2) Craig and Crapo; Congressmen Simpson to reduce costs related to evacuating and Otter) signed onto a letter urging injured climbers, the NPS will work with a the National Park Service (NPS) to revise hospital in Anchorage regarding use of its the climbing management plan (CMP) at Lifeguard helicopter to transport injured the City of Rocks in Idaho and ease the climbers from the 7,200-foot basecamp absolute climbing ban on the Twin Sisters (the hospital would bill the patient directly formation. for this service); (3) that proof of medical The Twin Sisters (closed to climbing insurance should not be required (although since 1993) are the most prominent and the NPS will encourage climbers to carry recognizable rock formations at the City of medical insurance and provide information Rocks and provide unparalleled opportuni- about access to providers specializing in ties for rock climbers from around the climbing insurance); (4) registration should country. The Twin Sisters formation is be required for all climbers within Denali also a National Historic Landmark due to National Park and Preserve; and (5) in its association with the California Trail. In order to help recover costs for human 1993 the NPS initiated a Twin Sisters waste management studies, an additional Resource Study to evaluate the effects of $50 fee should be added to the current rock climbing on the formations’ historic $150 climber registration fee. The total values. Despite the NPS conclusion that fee for climbing Mt. McKinley or Mt. rock climbing had no significant measur- Foraker would then be $200. able effect on the geologic, natural or visual integrity of the historic resource at NPS To Reconsider the Twin Sisters Twin Sisters, the 1998 CMP for the City Climbing Ban at the City of Rocks, ID of Rocks prohibited climbing on the Twin In February the Access Fund’s Sisters to protect its historic “feeling and Policy Director Jason Keith traveled to association.” It is also worthwhile to note Washington DC to lobby on several issues, that power lines and a house are clearly in particular to seek support for reversing visible from the California Trail, while the climbing ban at Twin Sisters at the City climbers on Twin Sisters are not visible of Rocks National Reserve. As a result of from the Trail, even to the trained this advocacy work, all members of the eye. The 1998 CMP for the City of ☛ 4 5 Rocks is currently up for revision. The March 23, 2004 letter from Congress Vertical Times, April 2004, volume 57. The Access Fund is a national non-profit organization encouraged the NPS to implement a mul- dedicated to keeping climbing areas open and conserving tiple-use management plan providing for the climing environment. low-impact climbing activities consistent with NPS policies, and consider a balanced Board of Directors management approach for Twin Sisters President Becky Hall, CO in a revised CMP that provides climbing Dave Rosenstein, NJ Heather Furman, VT Jeff Holt, NJ opportunities while ensuring that appropri- Vice President Pat Jodice, SC ate historic values are protected. On April Mark Kroese, WA Gene Kistler, WV 19, 2004 the NPS responded to Congress Sam Lightner, Jr.,WY by stating that unrelated pressing manage- Secretary Marte Lightstone, NM Eric Hobday, UT Bob Margulis, WA ment issues have caused them to also John Myers, NC reconsider their policies on the Twin Sisters Treasurer Dan Nordstrom, WA closure. Accordingly, the NPS hopes Leslie Brown, WA Kurt Smith, TX to begin the process of amending the Jeff Widen, CO Lance Brock, TN Comprehensive Management Plan for the Tommy Caldwell, CO Honorary Board Members City of Rocks and to assess “if the decision Andrew Carson, WY Michael Kennedy, CO to ban climbing on the Twin Sisters remains Ken Cline, CO Armando Menocal, WY valid from a recreational and resource stew- Keith Cole, Washington, DC Bill Supple, VT ardship perspective.” Staff Executive Director Steve Matous .