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Follow the Scent Brussels Follow the scent World-famous for its quality and scrump- tiousness, Belgian chocolate is worth a trip to Brussels in its own right. Here’s our guide to the city’s must-visit spots, ranging from emerging chocolatiers to the heritage players who have shaped the history of this delicious world. By EMMA HOLMQVIST DEACON Photos by SANDER DE WILDE SEPTEMBER 2018 SCANDINAVIANTRAVELER.COM 111 Brussels sk anyone on the streets of the actual dessert, or as an accompani- ‘Belgians generally enjoy Brussels for directions to ment.” a praline every afternoon A the nearest chocolate shop, Where to begin a chocolate tour of with a cup of coffee’ and the answer will invari- Brussels? Lots of chocolate makers con- ably be, “They’re every- gregate in the famous Grand Place, in- where!” Chocolate has been a major in- cluding Godiva’s frst-ever shop, opened dustry here since the 19th century. There in 1926. And there are even more in the are over 2,000 chocolatiers in Belgium, nearby and equally chocolate-box-pretty collectively producing some 172,000 Galerie de la Reine. A visit to the Grand tonnes annually. Sablon (also known for its antique mar- So do Belgians eat enough of these de- ket) and surrounding streets is also a lights to justify the high number of shops must. Here, you’ll fnd royal warrant lining the streets? “Belgians generally en- holder Wittamer and “bean to praline” joy a praline every afternoon with a cup of chocolatiers Pierre Marcolini and Blond- cofee, so it’s very much a part of their eel, among others. Don’t panic if you run tradition,” says Avril Pendergast-Fischer, out of time – Brussels Airport happens to a trained chocolatier and a Neuhaus be the biggest chocolate emporium in the Chocolate marketing director. “A box of world. chocolates is a fxture at every dinner party – in some cases it’s presented as 112 SCANDINAVIANTRAVELER.COM SEPTEMBER 2018 Brussels 2 THIS WAY TO BRUSSELS A round trip to Brussels will cost you from 30,000 points. Taxes and fees apply from €30. Book at flysas.com 3 BLONDEEL GINKGO 1 In the wake of the bigger 2 Not a chocolate boutique as global chocolate players, a hand- such, but since excellent pâtis- ful of smaller makers have sier Ginkgo dedicates a chunk of emerged, striving to revive the space to Ardennes-based choc- craft of Belgium’s chocolate olatier Deremiens, we feel it tradition. Frederic Blondeel deserves a place in this guide. creates chocolate from scratch The praline selection spans in his artisanal Brussels factory, classic flavors and more unusual diligently roasting beans before ones – carrot and Orval go sur- blending pure cocoa butter with prisingly well with beer. Opened other natural ingredients. Try at the end of 2017 in Saint-Gilles, them in Blondeel’s charming this beautifully-designed spot stores where classic flavors has already built up a loyal fol- PIERRE MARCOLINI mingle with less conventional lowing, addicted to its delicious, 3 “Couturier chocolatier” Pierre ones such as cinnamon and made-on-the-premises cakes Marcolini presents his creations matcha tea. Our favorite? The and pastries. so stylishly that you might think Truffon – a white chocolate - Ginkgo you’ve strolled into an ultra- enrobed praline with hazelnut Place Julien Dillens 8 modern jewelry boutique. Since nougatin. ginkgopatisserie.be the first shop swung open its Blondeel • Rue de la Paille 32 (Grand Sablon) doors in the mid-90s, Marcolini frederic-blondeel.be has established a global reputa- tion for his cocoa craft, combin- 1 ing flavors and texture in innova- tive ways. To bring out the nuances of single-origin cocoa beans, all roasting is done in- house. Marcolini believes beans differ in character as much as grape varieties, and since each chocolate tablet has the bean variety listed and described on the wrapper, you’ll get to com- pare for yourself. Try the macar- ons too, for which Marcolini is also famous. Pierre Marcolini • Galerie de la Reine 21 eu.marcolini.com 114 SCANDINAVIANTRAVELER.COM SEPTEMBER 2018 Brussels 6 5 WITTAMER Neuhaus, an artisanal space Royal warrant holder Wittamer launched in 2015, next-door to is a major player in Brussels’ the original Neuhaus flagship chocolate terrain. But you’ll only boutique in Galerie de la Reine. come across its contemporary- Guided by Neuhaus’ maître lux boutiques in the chocolate chocolatiers, you’ll be taught the haven that is Place du Grand professional chocolate tasting Sablon, an area known for its ritual to best enjoy the nuanced chocolate shops and antique flavors. Next, you’ll get to try your dealers (a famous antique mar- hand at molding chocolate ket is held here on weekends). A tablets and shapes, and couple of doors down from Wit- decorate pralines to devour on tamer’s chocolate shop, you’ll the spot or take home. find a separate patisserie in MARY Atelier de Neuhaus which decorative cakes com- 4 Mary’s first shop opened in Galerie de la Reine 29 pete for attention. Take a seat 1919, a stone’s throw from the neuhauschocolates.com More Brussels and watch the world go by in this Royal Palace of Brussels. In 1942, treats well-heeled part of Brussels. legendary founder Madame NEUHAUS Find out where to eat Wittamer Mary Delluc was the first choco- 6 The story behind Neuhaus is the best moules-frites at 6 Place du Grand Sablon late purveyor in Belgium to earn quite a treat in itself. Founder scandinaviantraveler.com wittamer.com a royal warrant and she was also Jean Neuhaus, a Swiss pharma- the first female chocolatier to cist, opened a store in 1857 from emerge in Europe. Delluc passed where he sold medicine dipped 4 away in the 1950s, but many of in chocolate to sweeten the pill. her innovative recipes are still The maverick’s equally inventive used today. You can sample an grandson, Jean Neuhaus Junior, array of pralines and hand-rolled came up with the idea of filled truffles at any of Mary’s six Brus- chocolate 15 years later – and so sels shops, but we highly recom- the praline was born. Today, Neu- mend a visit to the original bou- haus is one the most exclusive tique – its Art Deco design is as purveyors of chocolate in the noteworthy as the artisan de- world. In the Galerie de la Reine lights within. boutique, beautifully-presented Mary • 73 Rue Royal, mary.be wares are displayed on the origi- nal pharmacy cabinets. ATELIER DE NEUHAUS Neuhaus Chocolates 5 Fancy making your own Galerie de la Reine 25-27 Belgian chocolates? Book a neuhauschocolates.com one-hour workshop at Atelier de 116 SCANDINAVIANTRAVELER.COM SEPTEMBER 2018 FOR THE MODERN TRAVELER FROM SCANDINAVIAN AIRLINES | SEPTEMBER 2018 9 9 FOR THE MODERN TRAVELER FROM SCANDINAVIAN AIRLINES “An app that calls for help” Stian Sandø, Flare “Everyone needs an address” Karoline Beronius, Map Project “Insects | SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER are full of proteins” ANYONE? Jessica Buhl-Nielsen and Malena Sigurgeirsdottir, Wholi 2018 This year marks the launch of the first-ever SAS Scholarship. The challenge? Come up with an idea that will help change the world. In this issue, SAS scholars and their mentors outline their plans and hopes for success.
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