Eataly: All About Dolci
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21153_EAAD_interior.indd 74 6/4/19 4:28 PM DOLCI ALLA FRUTTA &5267$7$,17(*5$/( $//()5$*2/( 675$:%(55<-$07$57,1$:+2/(:+($7&5867 @LVP^!ZYP!1&TYNS!#*+&NPY_TXP_P]$!_L]_%!0!_Z!)(!^P]aTYR^ A lattice-topped jam tart is a classic home-baked dessert in Italypthe reward for having taken the time to put up jam and preserves in the warmer months. A whole wheat crust makes this one rustic and satisfying. The dough for this recipe is a whole wheat variation on Pasta Frolla (page 67). .%Ugbe%'./2%YdS_e(% COMBINE the lours, baking powder, and salt and iZa^W%iZWSf%tagd place on a work surface (or in a bowl) and form a well. .%Ugbe%'./2%YdS_e(% Place the butter in the well. Work in the butter until it bSefdk%tagd forms large chunks. Add the sugar and continue to com- .%fWSebaa`%'0%YdS_e(% bine into a shaggy dough. Add the egg and knead until TS][`Y%baiVWd smooth. Use a bench scraper to collect all the dough. %fWSebaa`%'/%YdS_e(% Shape it into a log and wrap in plastic wrap. eS^f .%ef[U]%b^ge%/%fST^Webaa`e% PREHEAT the oven to 350ºF (180ºC). '.2-%YdS_e(%g`eS^fWV% TgffWd)%Sf%daa_% fW_bWdSfgdW)%Ugf%[`fa% RESERVE about one-third of the dough. (Refrigerate if b[WUWe your kitchen is very warm.) On a lightly loured surface, %Ugb%b^ge%/%fST^Webaa`e% roll out the remaining dough s inch (about r centime- '42%YdS_e(%egYSd ter) thick. Line a 9-inch (23-centimeter) pie or tart pan .%^SdYW%WYY)%^[YZf^k%TWSfW` with the dough, ktting it against the sides. Spread the strawberry jam in an even layer on the dough. .%Ugb%'0--%YdS_e(% efdSiTWddk%\S_ ROLL out the remaining dough and use it to create a lattice. (See pages 76m77.) BAKE until the crust is golden, about 30 minutes. Cool before serving. 75 21153_EAAD_interior.indd 75 6/4/19 4:28 PM ALL ABOUT DOLCI 7ZXP!:L]P!WL!7]Z^_L_L!NZY!CP_TNZWZ 8%C8KK@:<%:ILJK%FE%KFG%F=%8%K8IK%Yc%Q%`bUddi%d_eSX%dXQd%Yc%^_d%TYVsSe\d%d_%QSXYUfU%Y^%dXU% \UQcd+%Ad%V_b]c%TYQ]_^Tc%gYdX%dXU%s\\Y^W%`UU[Y^W%dXb_eWX+%AV%i_e%`\Q^%d_%SbUQdU%Q%\QddYSU%V_b%i_eb% dQbd)%i_e%gY\\%^UUT%]_bU%T_eWX%dXQ^%YV%i_e%gUbU%Zecd%]Q[Y^W%Q%cY^W\U*Sbecd%dQbd+%JXU%\QddYSU%% bUaeYbUc%QR_ed%XQ\V%Qc%]eSX%T_eWX%Qc%dXU%R_dd_]%Sbecd+%JXU%Y^cdbeSdY_^c%RU\_g%QbU%V_b%SbUQdY^W%% Q%\QddYSU%Sbecd%Y^%Q%b_e^T%`YU%_b%dQbd%`Q^)%Red%i_e%SQ^%]Q[U%Q%\QddYSU%Sbecd%Y^%Q%caeQbU%_b%bUSdQ^* We\Qb%`Q^%Qc%gU\\+% JXYc%cicdU]%Yc%^_d%Vecci%_b%S_]`\YSQdUT)%Red%YV%i_eqbU%Y^%Q%Xebbi%Q^T%T_^qd%gQ^d%d_%R_dXUb%gYdX% Q%be\Ub)%i_e%SQ^%Q\c_%b_\\%dXU%\QddYSU%T_eWX%Y^d_%dXY^%b_`UcnQR_ed%dXU%gYTdX%_V%Q%`U^SY\nQ^T% ecU%dX_cU%d_%SbUQdU%Q%\QddYSU%_^%d_`%_V%dXU%dQbd+ CZWW!Z`_!_SP!MZ__ZX!N]`^_%!]P_LTYTYR!LMZ`_!ZYP&SLWQ!ZQ!_SP!OZ`RS!QZ]!_SP!WL__TNP'!6P!^`]P!_SL_!_SP!]TX!ZQ!_SP! MZ__ZX!N]`^_!T^!^_`]Od'!=Q!YPNP^^L]d%!]ZWW!L!_STY!]Z[P!ZQ!OZ`RS!LYO!L__LNS!T_!L]Z`YO!_SP!]TX'!:TWW!_SP!_L]_' CZWW!Z`_!_SP!OZ`RS!QZ]!_SP!WL__TNP!LMZ`_!!TYNS!#!NPY_TXP_P]$!_STNV'!F^P!L!]`WP]!_Z!XL]V!^_]T[^!ZQ!! !_Z!)!TYNS!#)!_Z!*!NPY_TXP_P]^$'!7`_!_SP!^_]T[^!`^TYR!L!VYTQP!Z]![L^_]d!N`__P]'! 76 21153_EAAD_interior.indd 76 6/4/19 4:28 PM DOLCI ALLA FRUTTA BWLNP!ZYP!^P_!ZQ!^_]T[^![L]LWWPW!_Z!PLNS!Z_SP]!ZY!_Z[!ZQ!_SP!_L]_%![TYNSTYR!_SPX!_Z!^PLW!_SPX!_Z!_SP!]TX' BWLNP!_SP!]PXLTYTYR!^_]T[^![L]LWWPW!_Z!PLNS!Z_SP]!LYO!L_!L!,-&OPR]PP!LYRWP!_Z!_SP!m]^_!^P_!ZQ!^_]T[^'!! E]TX!LYd!PcNP^^!OZ`RS' 5Q_P]!_]TXXTYR!LYd!PcNP^^!OZ`RS%![TYNS!_SP!PYO^!ZQ!_SP!WL__TNP!^_]T[^!LRLTY^_!_SP![P]TXP_P]!ZQ!_SP! OZ`RS!_Z!LOSP]P' 77 21153_EAAD_interior.indd 77 6/4/19 4:28 PM 21153_EAAD_interior.indd 40 6/4/19 4:27 PM TORTE 7257$7(1(5,1$ 7(1'(5&+2&2/$7(&$.( @LVP^!ZYP!1&TYNS!#*+&NPY_TXP_P]$!NLVP%!LMZ`_!)*!^P]aTYR^! 9XTWTL&CZXLRYL Torta tenerina, as its name implies, is an extremely tender cake. As it bakes, a crackly crust forms on top, but the interior remains soft and creamy. This cake hails from Ferrara, where it is also known as torta taclenta, which means jsticky caken in the local dialect. Use a spatula to fold the ingredients together gently, maintaining as much volume as possible. Keep in mind that you want the center to be very soft, so the usual technique for testing doneness by inserting a toothpick or skewer won!t work. And never use your oven!s convection setting for this cakepyou want the air to circulate as little as possible while it is baking. 6%^SdYW%WYYe)%eWbSdSfWV PREHEAT the oven to 350ºF (180ºC). Butter and lour (or use cocoa powder) a 9-inch (23-centimeter) cake pan, / r"%Ugbe%'0--%YdS_e(% Ua`XWUf[a`Wdeq%egYSd)%b^ge% preferably a springform, and set aside. _adW%Xad%Vgef[`Y %Ugb%'0-%YdS_e(% BEAT the egg yolks with the confectioners! sugar, s cup g`T^WSUZWV%S^^*bgdbaeW% (30 grams) lour, and potato starch until combined. Place tagd)%b^ge%_adW%Xad% tagd[`Y%bS` the chocolate and 2 sticks plus 2 tablespoons (260 grams) butter in the top of a double boiler and melt, then whisk 0%fST^Webaa`e%'0-%YdS_e(% bafSfa%efSdUZ to combine. Allow to cool. Beat the egg whites to a stif peak. Fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture in .-%ag`UWe%'0--%YdS_e(% T[ffWdeiWWf%UZaUa^SfW three additions, then gently fold in the lour mixture until well combined. /%ef[U]e%b^ge%/% fST^Webaa`e%'/3-%YdS_e(% g`eS^fWV%TgffWd)%b^ge%_adW% TRANSFER the batter to the prepared pan and bake in Xad%fZW%bS` the preheated oven until a crust has formed on top and the middle has just set, 45 to 50 minutes. Allow to cool in the pan. Dust with confectioners! sugar just before serving. 41 21153_EAAD_interior.indd 41 6/4/19 4:27 PM 21153_EAAD_interior.indd 78 6/4/19 4:28 PM DOLCI ALLA FRUTTA 6758'(/',0(/( $33/(6758'(/ @LVP^!ZYP!)*&TYNS!#+(&NPY_TXP_P]$!^_]`OPW%!.!_Z!0!^P]aTYR^! E]PY_TYZ&5W_Z!5OTRP Though you may associate strudel more closely with Austria than with Italy, strudel in a puf pastry case is the signature dessert of the TrentinomAlto Adige region, which was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire until 1919. '28*+$1' ON a piece of parchment paper, roll out homemade puf ),1,6+,1* pastry to a rectangle about s inch (Ä centimeter) thick .1%ag`UWe%'1--%YdS_e(% and about 14 v 18-inches (36 v 46-centimeters) wide, GSefS%JXaY^[S%'bSYW%2/(%ad% or overlap the sheets slightly, press gently to seal them /%eZWWfe%efadW*TagYZf% bgXX%bSefdk together, and trim to the correct size. Use the parchment to slide the dough onto a baking sheet or jelly-roll pan and .%^SdYW%WYY)%^[YZf^k%TWSfW` refrigerate. ),//,1* PREHEAT the oven to 350tF (180ºC). %Ugb%'.--%YdS_e(%egYSd FOR THE FILLING, in a large sauty pan, combine the 0%fST^Webaa`e%'10%YdS_e(% g`eS^fWV%TgffWd sugar and butter. Bring the mixture to a low boil over medium heat and stir until the sugar dissolves, about /%bag`Ve%'6--%YdS_e(% Sbb^We)%bWW^WV)%UadWV)%S`V% 1 minute. Add the apples and cook, stirring to coat, about Ugf%[`fa%*[`UZ% 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the bread- '.*UW`f[_WfWd(%V[UW crumbs, cookie crumbs, and lemon zest; stir well to !%Ugb%'4-%YdS_e(%UaSdeW% combine. TdWSVUdg_Te /%8_SdWff[%Uaa][We%'bSYW% TRANSFER the chilled dough with the parchment to /-%ad%efadW*TagYZf()%s`W^k% a work surface. Mound the klling in a 12 v 3-inch (30 v UdgeZWV 8-centimeter) strip, about 2 inches (5 centimeters) up =[`W^k%YdSfWV%lWef%aX%% from the bottom edge of the dough, leaving a 2r-inch .%^W_a` (6-centimeter) border of dough on either end of the klling at the short ends; brush the dough with the egg. (Reserve egg wash.) Fold in the two short ends of the dough to cover the klling. From the bottom edge, roll up the strudel using the parchment paper and ending with the strudel seam- side down. Roll onto a baking sheet. Brush the outside of the dough with the egg wash. BAKE in the preheated oven, rotating the pan once half- way through, until the strudel is evenly golden in color, about 40 minutes. Remove the strudel from the oven and allow it to cool on the pan on the rack until just warm, at least 30 minutes. 79 21153_EAAD_interior.indd 79 6/4/19 4:28 PM 21153_EAAD_interior.indd 107 6/4/19 4:28 PM ALL ABOUT DOLCI )5,77(//(',5,&277$ 5,&277$)5,77(56 @LVP^!,!_Z!.!OZePY!Q]T__P]^ Incorporating ricotta results in cloudlike fritters with a tender texture. /%Ugbe%'2--%YdS_e(%Uaiqe% IN a large bowl, combine the ricotta, sugar, and eggs. _[^]%d[UaffS)%VdS[`WV Sift the lour, baking powder, and salt together and then r"%Ugb%'3-%YdS_e(%egYSd fold the dry ingredients into the ricotta mixture using a 0%^SdYW%WYYe rubber spatula (or a stand mixer ktted with the paddle attachment).