— Alan Rice — Year Stint with Chimay Trappist Brewery
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August 2007 • Volume 14 • Number 8 Quebecan Quaffs BY ALAN RICE In July there were big storms outside, so we packed into a hot and humid Mugs. We welcomed back Rick Suarez , regional sales manager for Unibroue. Rick celebrates his 10th anniversary with Unibroue next month, and he has visited us many times over the years. He has opened 32 states and has hired 6 salesmen for the brewery. André Dion founded Unibroue in 1990 with the ac - quisition of the Massawippi Brewery, in Lennoxville. In 1993, they opened a new brewery in Chambly, 18 miles east of Montreal. They are known for their Belgian-style beers, and Liefmans of Oudenaarde provided early sup - port. Some say that Liefmans’ parent, Riva Brewery, still FROM THE EDITOR’S DESK has some influence. Cheers! Here’s your newsletter... Brewmaster Paul Arnott was hired in 2000 after a 10- — Alan Rice — year stint with Chimay Trappist Brewery. He is a Scot and a graduate of the International Centre for Brewing and Next Meeting: Distilling, at Heriot-Watt University, in Edinburgh. The inaugural Canadian Brewery Awards were held in Wed. August 8, 7:30 p.m., Mugs Ale House . Toronto in 2003. Thirty-seven breweries submitted over Our guest will be Eric McKay 130 beers for judging. Unibroue received the most medals with 6, including gold for Trois Pistoles (the highest rated of Union Beer Distributors. Continued on next page MALTED BARLEY APPRECIATION SOCIETY • August 2007 • 1 Continued from page 1 beer of the contest), Blanche de Chambly, and L’Éphémère Apple. Unibroue was named Brewer of the Year. In 2004 Sleeman Breweries of Guelph, Ontario purchased Uni - broue for C$31 million. Sleeman traced their roots back to 1834, but in fact, existed as that entity only since1988. There was concern among beer aficionados when Sleeman took over. Sleeman’s name brands are brewed with ad - Rick Suarez and brewmaster Paul Arnott at Monk’s Cafe in 2005. Photo by Mark C. Haynie. Mark’s juncts for the mass market, for ex - photos from his tour of Unibroue can be found at his blog. Click HERE to view. ample, their Cream Ale. But even worse, they had a bad reputation for pur - brands north of the border, including Old Milwaukee, chasing regional breweries and liquidating all but the most Pabst, and Rainier. They also market and distribute Guin - popular brands. They bought Okanagan Spring Brewery ness, Grolsch, Newcastle, Urquell, and Samuel Adams. (Vernon, BC) in 1996, Upper Canada Brewing (Toronto, Sleeman grew, in part through acquisition, to OT) in 1998, La Brasserie Seigneuriale (Boucherville, Canada’s third largest brewery with 7% market share. QC) in 1998, Maritime Brewing (Dartmouth, NS) 2000, Neither micro nor macro, they were the size of a regional Shaftebury (Vancouver, BC) in 2004. brewery compared to (InBev) Labatt and Molson Coors, The disappearance of the Seigneuriale Belgian-style which each control about 41% of line was most lamented, especially the Seigneuriale Re - the market. serve. Many feared a similar fate for Unibroue, but Slee - In August 2006, Sapporo man did not mess with success. The US no longer gets Breweries purchased Sleeman redundant beer like Eau Benite and poor sellers like Raft - for US$300 million plus the as - man, but the takeover was transparent to most consumers. sumption of $108 million in debt. Canada’s beer laws are in certain ways more restric - They are the third largest Japan - tive than in the US. Each provincial liquor board has con - ese brewer (valued at $4.3 bil - trol over the import, distribution, and sale of all alcoholic lion), after Asahi and Kirin. Sleeman contract brewed beverages. So, inter-provincial beer sales are regulated to Sapporo for the North American market, and this assures a greater extent their growth internationally despite a stagnant domestic than our inter- market. state beer sales. Sapporo protected their North American interests by It is often times preventing a takeover by rivals. (Grolsch was also a bid - easier to export der for similar reasons as Sapporo.) Some nationalists are to the US than bothered by the fact that about 90% of beer production is to a neighbor - controlled by foreign interests, but there were no domes - ing province. tic bidders. Family owned Moosehead is now Canada’s Owning brew - largest independent brewery, followed by Lakeport and eries in several Big Rock. provinces From the Sleeman employees’ point of view, Sap - solves many poro’s purchase was preferable to being taken over by La - sales and distribution problems. Purchasing Shaftebury batt or Molson (who were also seriously interested), since and Unibroue were redundant in this regard, but these many of their 700 jobs would have been cut. Possibly all added market share. four Sleeman breweries, including the flagship brewery Sleeman is a large contract brewer. Stroh’s gave them In Guelph, would have closed. Production would likely early backing, and they produce the Stroh portfolio of Continued on next page MALTED BARLEY APPRECIATION SOCIETY • August 2007 • 2 Continued from page 2 head lingers over a reddish beer, tasting of sweet fruit and have consolidated to a larger, existing plant. spice. It’s delicious now, and I’ll be hiding away one or Sapporo’s acquisition was also fortunate for fans of two for aging. Unibroue’s beer, as the Chambly brewery and recipes are Quelque Chose was their first annual, launched in so far unchanged. In fact, it is in Sap - 1996. It is an 8% fruit beer brewed with poro’s interest to expand the Sleeman dark malt and with cherries from Lief - brands. mans. The copious amount of cherries are Let’s Drink soaked for months in slightly bitter ale be - fore being blended into the beer. It is a All of Unibroue’s exports are bottle versatile beer that you can drink mulled to conditioned, or “On Lees” as they prefer 160 degrees F., at room temperature, or to say. The first was Blanche de Chambly, over ice. It can be mixed with orange juice their white ale from 1992. Rick didn’t for a beer Sangria, or if you prefer a bring this, or any of the core beers. In - stronger drink, add some Grand Marnier. stead, we started with Chambly Noire, a La Terrible first appeared in 2002, and 6.2% abv “black” beer first brewed in Au - this 10.5%, Belgian-style strong dark ale gust, 2005. Of course, it’s not a schwarz - ages very nicely. Terrible is Rick’s favorite bier, but a Belgian-style dark ale. The beer, and he showed it off by breaking out beige head is long lasting, it has a creamy a few from 2004. The head on this very mouth feel, and is slightly bitter from the dark beer dissipates quickly, unveiling malt. It’s an easy drinker and worth a try. aromas of stone fruit, spice and yeast. It Sleeman proved their good intentions tastes as you’d expect from the aroma, but by resurrecting the flagship of Seigneuri - the aging leaves you with a lingering fla - ale brand in January 2005. Perhaps the vors of Madeira. This was the highlight of others will return as well? It is a 7.5% the evening. The label suggests it may age strong pale ale, apricot-colored, mildly hoppy, with a for 10 years, but why wait that long? spicy finish. Michael Jackson described the originals: The annual beers such as Terrible and the anniversary “Seigneuriale (7.5abv) has a flame colour, an orange-skin beers are corked and caged in distinctive 750 ml bottles dryness, well-rounded, and a hoppy, bitter finish. with a metallic, silk-screened label. The regu - It was dry-hopped. A yet hoppier, and lar line-up of year round beers are sold in smoother, version, said to have been ma - 750s and also in 12oz. with distinctive tured longer, is called Seigneuriale Re - artwork on the labels. They are serve. Both are loosely along the packaged in 750ml and 33cl for lines of the great Belgian beer French and, yes, even Belgian Duvel. A slightly stronger supermarkets. (8.0abv), fruitier, peachy-tasting, Way back in 1991, André spiced (pepper?) brew is called Dion imagined that each beer Triple.” would have a Quebec theme, They bottle only 5,000 cases many dating back to colonial of the anniversary beers. Most are days. Some of these are anti- destined for the US. Each year is English, since they battled a different recipe, but the “15” was with the French in the area. He inspired by the amazing “10”. How - needed an artist to illustrate the ever it was not nearly as good as the tales. The story goes that he ran - original. It’s a 10% golden ale brewed domly picked a designer from the with Westmalle yeast. phone book. The man was busy and A few cases of the “15” and “16” did almost turned down the job. But he man - stay in Canada, and I can see why they kept the aged to submit samples, and today a Pak - latter. It is a 10% amber ale also brewed with Westmalle istani named Asaf who is a graduate from Brooklyn yeast, but with the addition of cardomon. The off-white Tech is Unibroue’s senior employee! MALTED BARLEY APPRECIATION SOCIETY • August 2007 • 3 ALE AND ANTIQUITIES BY B.R. ROLYA which didn’t linger and a nice, mild with a ginger ale nose. It tasted a bit faint chocolate aftertaste. grassy initially and felt like it would In April, Bob and I signed up to judge We had to try Monkey Knife have ginger heat and bite but turned at the 1st round of the American Fight just based on the name.