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Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
Singapore Ijefenders Rally for Attack; New Attacks Repulsed by Bataan
y > SATUKDAY, FEBRUARY 7,1942 FOUBTEEN £oanins IbraUk Average Dally Circulation The Weather For the Month of dnnanry, 1943 Forecnet of U. B. WentlMr Borena Scouts’ Court To EntcFtain Defense Group 7,088 Oontlniicd very cold tonight, dt- About Town Heard Along Main Street DINE and DANCE at mlnlshlng winds. Makes Awards Member of this Audit Is Organized And on Some of Manchetter*a Side Streets, Too Bnrenn of Clrculntlona ' lC«nb«n or tlM Hl-LMCue «nd DANTE’S RESTAURANT MancheHer-~A City of Village Charm tlM Bpwortli Lm c u c of the South The manager of a Main street' the north end. The hounds were Badges and Merits Given io,East Center street Odd FelhiwR BuHdtaf Itethodlat church are reminded of having a merry fight over an arti PRICE THREE CENTS auaper tomorrow evenlnj; at Rev. Dr. Walson Wood business house whose home is In (Claaaliled Advertiaing On Page 13) MANCHESTER, CONN., MONDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 1942 (FOURTEEN PAGES) cle that proved to be an inner tube. To Local Boys for ITALIAN AND AMERICAN COOKING VOL.V WA-ie LXI.,a^Am*e* ' *NO. 'w o I l l . ______ __ ____________________ ■ ^ ^ alx o’clock at'the church. Each ruff Is Nainefl (’.hair- Hartford, experienced 'one of those They were tearing away at the Festdrinx Chicken, Steaks, Spnghetti and Ravioli. one attendlnf U reque^ to days" this past week. And when tube in true Japanese ferocity. Passing Their Tests. 7 Orders Pat Up To Take Ont. brtnc a baeket lunch. Tea Md man of Unit. we say he had "one of those dasra" Dogs must be taught they can't do coffee wUl be fumtohed. -
What to Buy Lor Mas and Where to My I
V f" - t ' AM&t, ' - iv' 'vTw TT' "" PVj.$ 'fiSf' rrt'fr l;"". , ;' EVENING BULLETIN, DECEMBER 18 1807. What to Buy lor Mas and Where to My I " & E. W, Jordan J. T. Waterhouse, Pacific Cycle & Mfg. Company, N. S, Sachs Hawaiian Cycle & Mfg, Co, A, E. Mnrphy Company, Arlington lllock, Hotel .Street. 10 Fort Street. Orookory Department. Km. kin Iti.iio., KoiitKt. No. 520 Fort Street. For Oentlemen KOlt A LADY: A Hawaii Wcycle "NYtiro A Search Light Lamp FOIt MKN: Kino Leather Shopping and llandkur-ehlo- f "Wedgowood llemlngtou Dlrylc SSiOO FOWOKNTLKMKN: A Punching Hag Iligs A Sweater Congress and Oxford Ijieed Shoes Kmhrohlorcd llandker- Uiists Kangaroo ltenl I.aoo and I'uriun and Statuettes " Dny's " l")00 I'lnoSllkUinbiclhs A Peerless Typewriter. In Kroneh Patont Leather and ehiefs Ilandsouio Silk Scarfs II.t f'uir milt Vnnl Calf Silk Dress and Trimmings Queen Vietoriu. Jubilee Ore-ce- nt " 75 00 ' Homcos Busts Uox of I'ino Handkerchiefs For Ladies lllaek and Colored Work liaskets Uox SlipjHirs, lllaek and Colored. SeKsors, Out-glu- ' Hoy's " 50 (X) of Silk Socks. A Hawaii IJIdyela Cases of Ruinb(w ss A Search Light Lamp FOIt LADI1: " " 4o (K) KOIl AOKNTLKMAN: aiton VOll LADIIX: A Veader Cyelometer Cut-gla- ss A Dlcyelc Hell liuii and llutton Oxfoids Ordinnry pieces .Dloyele I.aiup (extra quality)... 5 00 French Kid, Dongola Kid leather Dressing Cases Ileal IjHcu Handkerchiefs A Tennis Dacket. ' Whlto and Urown Canvas lloinstltehetl Ilandkorchlefs Crockery and China " Saddle " " ... "00 IIiukIhoiiio Ulack Idico Sc.ufs Cloth Top Smoking Cap. Ware of a. -
Temple University Vendor List
Temple University Vendor List 19Nine LLC Contact: Aaron Loomer 224-217-7073 5868 N Washington Indianapolis, IN 46220 [email protected] www.19nine.com Number Type Status Contracts: 1112269 Standard Effective Products: Otherwear - Shorts Stationary, Greeting Cards & N - Stickers T-Shirts - T-Shirts 3Click Inc Contact: Joseph Domosh 833-325-4253 PO Box 2315 Bala Cynwyd, PA 19004 [email protected] www.3clickpromotions.com Number Type Status Contracts: 1114550 Internal Usage Effective Products: Housewares - Water Bottles Miscellaneous - Koozie Miscellaneous - Cell Phone Accessory Item Miscellaneous - Sunglasses School Supplies - Pen Short sleeve - t-shirt short sleeve Stationary, Greeting Cards & N - Notepad 47 Brand LLC Contact: Kevin Meisinger 781-320-1384 15 Southwest Park Westwood, MA 02090 [email protected] www.twinsenterprise.com Number Type Status Contracts: 1013854 Standard Effective 1013856 Co-branded/Operation Hat Trick Effective 1013855 Vintage Marks Effective Products: Accessories - Gloves Accessories - Scarf Fashion Apparel - Sweater Fashion Apparel - Rugby Shirt Fleece - Sweatshirt Fleece - Sweatpants Headwear - Visor Headwear - Knit Caps 01/21/2020 Page 1 of 79 Headwear - Baseball Cap Mens/Unisex Socks - Socks Otherwear - Shorts Replica Football - Football Jersey Replica Hockey - Hockey Jersey T-Shirts - T-Shirts Womens Apparel - Womens Sweatpants Womens Apparel - Capris Womens Apparel - Womens Sweatshirt Womens Apparel - Dress Womens Apparel - Sweater 4imprint Inc. Contact: Karla Kohlmann 866-624-3694 101 Commerce -
Fashion Through the Ages
Fashion Through The Ages • In the Victorian era, both boys and girls wore dressed until the age of around 5 years old. • High-heeled shoes were worn from the 17th century, and were initially designed for men. • Women often wore platform shoes in the 15th to 17th centuries, which kept their skirts up above the muddy streets. • Wearing purple clothes has been associated with royalty since the Roman era. The dye to make clothes purple, made from snail shells, was very expensive. • Napoleon was said to have had buttons sewn onto the sleeves of military jackets. He hoped that they would stop soldiers wiping their noses on their sleeves! • Vikings wore tunics and caps, but they never wore helmets with horns. • See the objects in the Museum collections all about looking good: http:// heritage.warwickshire.gov.uk/museum-service/collections/looking-good/ • View the history of fashion from key items in the collection at Bath’s Fashion Museum: https://www.fashionmuseum.co.uk/galleries/history- fashion-100-objects-gallery • Google’s ‘We Wear Culture’ project includes videos on the stories behind clothes: https://artsandculture.google.com/project/fashion • Jewellery has been key to fashion for thousands of years. See some collection highlights at the V&A website: https://www.vam.ac.uk/ collections/jewellery#objects A Candy Stripe Friendship Bracelet Before you begin you need to pick 4 – 6 colours of thread (or wool) and cut lengths of each at least as long as your forearm. The more pieces of thread you use, the wider the bracelet will be, but the longer it will take. -
Fashion Collection, 1900 - Bulk Dates: 1940-1960
Fashion Collection, 1900 - bulk dates: 1940-1960 Special Collections Department/Long Island Studies Institute Contact Information: Special Collections Department Axinn Library, Room 032 123 Hofstra University Hempstead, NY 11549 Phone: (516) 463-6411, or 463-6404 Fax: (516) 463-6442 E-mail: [email protected] http://www.hofstra.edu/Libraries/SpecialCollections Compiled by: [J. Boucher] Last updated by: Date Completed: [2003] [M. O’Connor] [Aug. 24, 2006] Fashion Collection, 1900 - (bulk dates, 1940-1960) 11 c.f. The Fashion Collection was established by a donation from Eunice Siegelheim and her sister Bernice Wolfson. The core of the collection is 16 hats from the 1930s through the 1950s. The sisters, Eunice and Bernice wore these hats to social events on Long Island. Many were made and purchased in Brooklyn and other parts of New York. The Fashion Collection captures the spirit of various eras with artifacts and illustrations showing how people dressed for various social events. Many of the items in the Fashion Collection correspond to items in other collections, such as photographs from the Image Collection as well as the Long Island History of Sports Collection. Photographs of street scenes in the Image Collection show women of different eras on the sidewalk promenades of Long Island Towns. The Long Island History of Sports Collection includes photographs and programs from Belmont Park’s circa 1910. In addition to the hats, the collection contains other clothing artifacts such as men’s ties, hatboxes, dresses and shoes, from Ms. Siegelheim as well as other donors. The collection also supports fashion research with a run of American Fabrics Magazine, a trade publication that served the garment industry in the 1940s and 1950s. -
Helen Annie Benker Obst 1918 and 1920 Diaries of Helen Annie Benker Obst 1918 and 1920
Diaries of Helen Annie Benker Obst 1918 and 1920 Diaries of Helen Annie Benker Obst 1918 and 1920 Helen Benker Obst Helen Annie Benker was born on February 21, 1898 to Hermann Franz Benker and Anna Hirsch Benker. Hermann came from Meerane of Saxony, Germany and Anna from Gera of Thuringia, Germany. Hermann’s and Anna’s fathers had both been weavers. No dates have been found when Hermann arrived in the US but he first went to St. Joseph, Missouri before moving to Lawrence for work as a weaver in the wool mills. Anna Hirsch at age 17 arrived with her family in New York on August 14, 1891 on the ship SS Taormina. She met Hermann Benker in Lawrence and they were married on March 11, 1897. Helen was baptized “Nellie”. When she started 1st grade in public school, the teacher told her that Nellie was a nickname and she had to choose between Helen and Ellen. Her parents told her it was her choice, so she named herself “Helen”. But many friends still thought of her as Nellie. She lived the first 11 years of her life at 66 Alston St. Lawrence, MA. Graduated from Allgemeine Deutsche Schule in 1910 In 1910, Helen’s parents built a 3 family house at 199 East Haverhill St. Lawrence. Helen was to spend the rest of her childhood and all of her married life there and died in her bed at this address. Graduated from John R Rollins grammar school in 1911 Graduated from Lawrence Evening High School in 1914. -
Maryland Historical Magazine Patricia Dockman Anderson, Editor Matthew Hetrick, Associate Editor Christopher T
Friends of the Press of the Maryland Historical Society The Maryland Historical Society (MdHS) is committed to publishing the fnest new work on Maryland history. In late 2005, the Publications Committee, with the advice and support of the development staf, launched the Friends of the Press, an efort dedicated to raising money used solely for bringing new titles into print. Response has been enthusiastic and generous and we thank you. Our most recent Friends of the Press title, the much-anticipated Betsy Bonaparte has just been released. Your support also allowed us to publish Combat Correspondents: Baltimore Sun Correspondents in World War II and Chesapeake Ferries: A Waterborne Tradition, 1632–2000, welcome complements to the Mary- land Historical Society’s already fne list of publications. Additional stories await your support. We invite you to become a supporter, to follow the path frst laid out with the society’s founding in 1844. Help us fll in the unknown pages of Maryland’s past for future generations. Become, quite literally, an important part of Maryland history. If you would like to make a tax-deductible gif to the Friends of the Press, please direct your gif to Development, Maryland Historical Society, 201 W. Monument Street, Baltimore, MD, 21201. For additional information on MdHS publications, contact Patricia Dockman Anderson, Editor, 410-685-3750 x317, or [email protected]. Maryland Historical Society Founded 1844 Ofcers Robert R. Neall, Chairman Louise Lake Hayman, Vice President Alex. G. Fisher, Vice Chairman Frederick M. Hudson, Vice President Burton K. Kummerow, President Jayne H. Plank, Vice President James W. -
Close to the Skin: a Revealing Look at Lingerie
Close to the Skin: A Revealing look at Lingerie Wedding gown House of Worth, France ca. 1878 Silk faille; silk embroidery; glass pearls; lace #67.446 Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895) is considered the founder of haute couture. This early Worth creation illustrates his patronage by wealthy Americans, who had to travel to Paris to purchase their custom made dresses. Sarah Noyes Tibbets wore this dress when she married John Wool Griswold on January 15, 1878. Petticoat ca. 1878 Cotton #67.446c This petticoat was probably coordinated to go with the elaborate wedding gown by Charles Frederick Worth, made for Sarah Noyes Tibbett. The fineness of the cotton petticoat matches that of the gown. Pantaloons or drawers United States 1870s Plain weave light brown mixed fiber (silk, cotton, and/or wool) #57.920 Hoop skirt United States Ca. 1870 Steel springs; cotton twill tape No acc. # Hoop skirts could on occasion flip up, due to tripping or high wind. Pantaloons, or drawers, proved helpful in covering the legs if such a faux paus occurred. Corset R & G Corset Co. 1875-1900 White twill-weave cotton, lace, steel #67.591 Close to the Skin: A Revealing look at Lingerie Dress 1925-1930 Floral print silk chiffon with pink silk faille underdress. #59.379 Simpler, sheerer dresses in fashion in the 1920s often borrowed elements from undergarments. This example has a pink slip that is integral to the sheer overdress, including a matching printed hem that extends below the outer hemline. The edge of the wide collar is finished in a manner similar to fine lingerie. -
A Dictionary of Men's Wear Works by Mr Baker
LIBRARY v A Dictionary of Men's Wear Works by Mr Baker A Dictionary of Men's Wear (This present book) Cloth $2.50, Half Morocco $3.50 A Dictionary of Engraving A handy manual for those who buy or print pictures and printing plates made by the modern processes. Small, handy volume, uncut, illustrated, decorated boards, 75c A Dictionary of Advertising In preparation A Dictionary of Men's Wear Embracing all the terms (so far as could be gathered) used in the men's wear trades expressiv of raw and =; finisht products and of various stages and items of production; selling terms; trade and popular slang and cant terms; and many other things curious, pertinent and impertinent; with an appendix con- taining sundry useful tables; the uniforms of "ancient and honorable" independent military companies of the U. S.; charts of correct dress, livery, and so forth. By William Henry Baker Author of "A Dictionary of Engraving" "A good dictionary is truly very interesting reading in spite of the man who declared that such an one changed the subject too often." —S William Beck CLEVELAND WILLIAM HENRY BAKER 1908 Copyright 1908 By William Henry Baker Cleveland O LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two Copies NOV 24 I SOB Copyright tntry _ OL^SS^tfU XXc, No. Press of The Britton Printing Co Cleveland tf- ?^ Dedication Conforming to custom this unconventional book is Dedicated to those most likely to be benefitted, i. e., to The 15000 or so Retail Clothiers The 15000 or so Custom Tailors The 1200 or so Clothing Manufacturers The 5000 or so Woolen and Cotton Mills The 22000 -
Les Coiffures
Semaine 14 – ORTHOGRAPHE ET VOCABULAIRE Les coiffures 1. Trouvez les 30 fautes d’orthographe cachées dans ce teste extrait de la revue Animagine : Louis XIII perdit ses cheveux à trente ans et inaugura le porc port de la perruque. L’usage de ces postiches faits de faux cheveux était fréquent pour les vieillards des classes privilégiées, par contre un jeune noble aurait eu honte de porter cet attribut. Mais ce que le Roi fait devient coutume et la nouvelle coife coiffe royale faite de cheveux artificiels fut adoptée par la Cour. Louis XIV possédait une perruque différente pour chaque occupation de la journée, cette mode perdurat perdura sous Louis XV. Pendant le règne de Louis XVI, toute la bonne société portait perruque et les perruquiers pouvaient vivre heureux. A cette époque, on comptait environ douze cents perruquiers qui tenaient leur privilège(s) de Saint Louis et employaient six mille personnes. La poudre à perruque était un amidon vendu à prix d’or. Les parfumeurs assuraient détenir un extraordinaire secret de fabrication, alors qu’il ne s’agissait que d’un amidon réduis réduit en poudre et passer passé au travers d’un tamis de soie très serrée. Les boutiques de perruques n’étaient pas réputées pour leur hygiène… C’est la révolution de 1789 qui sonna le glas des perruques, le symbole d’une noblesse vieillissante. Alors, l’expression « tête a à perruque » désignait les vieillards obstinés et nostalgiques qui conservaient l’habitude des faux cheveux, et plus généralement toute personne démodée et vieillotte. Il fallut attendre la fin du XIXème siècle pour voir ressurgir resurgir une profession qui avait quasiment disparu(e). -
Powerhouse Museum
The information below describes objects being borrowed by the Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences (Powerhouse Museum): Display in 'Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear, 1715-2015' exhibition, 1 May 2018 - 14 October 2018 Date of Publication to MAAS Website: 12 February 2018 Latest Revision Date: 13 July 2018 Lender: Los Angeles County Museum of Art L5442/1 Object lent by Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA) as part of 'Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear, 1715-2015' Exhibition. Data received from LACMA as follows: Exhibition Theme: 1. Revolution / Evolution Exhibition Subtheme: 1.1 Macaroni Ensemble Ref: RM.1, Object Number: M.83.200.1a, c Title: Man's Coat and Breeches Place: Italy, probably Venice Date: circa 1770 Artist/designer/design house/maker: Unknown Medium/Materials: Silk plain weave with supplementary warp and weft patterning Dimensions: Coat center back length: 35 3/4 in. (90.81 cm); Breeches length: 24 1/2 in. (62.23 cm) Provenance Notes: Acquisition Details: Costume Council Fund Acquisition Date: 1983 Provenance History: Vendor: Galerie Ruf AG. Publication History: Takeda, Sharon Sadako, Kaye Durland Spilker, and Clarrisa M. Esguerra. Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear, 1715-2015. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Munich: DelMonico Books-Prestel, 2016. Web Address: http://collections.lacma.org/node/247916 L5442/2 Object lent by Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA) as part of 'Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear, 1715-2015' Exhibition. Data received from LACMA as follows: Exhibition Theme: 1. Revolution / Evolution Exhibition Subtheme: 1.1 Macaroni Ensemble Ref: RM.1, Object Number: M.2007.211.688a Title: Man's Waistcoat Place: France Date: circa 1770 Artist/designer/design house/maker: Unknown Medium/Materials: Silk satin with metallic-thread embroidery Dimensions: Waistcoat center back length: 26 in.