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The Inner Life of Syria, Palestine, and the Holy Land

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The Inner Life of Syria, Palestine, and the Holy Land Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2014 https://archive.org/details/innerlifeofsyria01burt THE INNER LIFE OF SYEIA, PALESTINE, AND THE HOLY LAND. VOL. 1. — OFINIONS OF THE PBUSS. Academy. "Fresh and original, and utterly tinlike the ordinary tourist class of worlis upon the Holy Land. Her account of the harem life is one of the best and most truthful that has yet appeared." Edinburgh Daily Review. " Vivid, clever, and even brilliant sketches of Damascus and the Mahomedan and Christian races of Syria." Examiner. "We welcome a highly interesting and instructive work in Mrs. Burton's ' Inner Life of Syria.' We have very graphic descriptions of a day's shopping in the bazaar, a reception day, a hammam, an evening at a harem, Moslem and Druze weddings, &c." Pall Mall Gazette. "Mrs. Burton presents us with vivid pictures of the outer as well as the inner life of the Syrians. We welcome her book the more warmly because it may be long before any one with equal powers of observation enjoys equal opportunities of instructing us." Jewish Chronicle. " A more delightful and instructive book we have never read. We heartily recommend a perusal thereof to every one interested in this most attractive subject." ^ Liverpool Albion. " It is some time since we had in our hands a more interesting record of travel than is contained in these two elegant volumes." Brighton Herald. " We get a better notion of life in the East—both inner life and outer life from these two volumes of Mrs. Isabel Burton than from any other book we have ever read." " THE INNER LIFE OF SYRIA, PALESTINE, AND THE HOLY LAND. FROM MY PRIVATE JOURNAL, BY ISABEL BURTON. " EUati Zaujuha ma'aha b'tadir el Kamar b'asbiha." (" The woman who has her husband with her (i.e. at her back) can turn the moon with her finger.") " El Maraa min ghayr Zaajuha mislaha tayaran maksus el Jenahh." (" The woman without her husband is like a bird with one wing.") " He travels and expatriates ; as the bee From flower to flower, so he from land to land, The manners, customs, policy of all. Pay contributions to the store he gleans ; He seeks intelligence from every clime. And spreads the honey of his deep research At his return,—a rich repast for me / WITR MAP, PEOTOGEAPES, AND COLOURED PLATES. IN TWO VOLUMES.—Vol. I. SECOND EDITION. Henry S. King & Co., London. 1876. (The rujhts of Iratislation and oj reproduction arc reserved.) THE LIBRARY BRIGHAM YOUNG U IVERSITV PROVO, UTAH I Writing for my own sex, my greatest ambition was to have offered this first attempt to the noblest and most beloved of our sex, our Nation's Idol, Her Eoyal Highness the Princess of Wales. I visited Vienna in May, 1873, partly—I may say chiefly—with the object of obtaining the desired permission, but Her Eoyal Highness was not there. At last a bright idea dawned upon me. I would embody my petition in a letter, and send it through the Embassy, and then— was ashamed of pushing myself forward (a good old English feeling, I believe)—my petition and I disappeared together in the wild, struggling, unsympathizing crowd. So my wish was never spoken ; and I lay this work, the offering of the firstfruits of my pen, where I lay all the other events and actions of my life, great and small, on the Grave of the best and dearest of women— MY MOTHEK. PKEFACE This book contains little History, Geography, or Politics; no Science, Ethnography, Botany, Geology, Zoology, Mineralogy, or Antiquities. Exploration and the harder travels, such as the Tullul es Safa, the Hauran, the Leja'a, the Alah, and other wilder parts of Syria, have been described by Captain Burton and myself in "Unex- ; plored Syria " but for all that, this book contains things women will like to know. I have followed my husband everywhere, gleaning only woman's lore, and I hope that the daily jottings of my private journal will yield a sketch of the inner life of the Holy Land in general, and of Damascus in particular. I wish to convey an idea of the life which an Englishwoman may make for herself in the East. In so doing I have found it difficult to avoid being too personal, or egotistical, or too frank, but I do not know how to tell my story in any other way, and I hope that in exchange for my experiences my readers will be indulgent. I have been often accused of writing as if it were intended as an address for the Royal Geographical Society, that is, in a 2'Mas^'-professional way. I conclude that this happened because I always wrote with and for my husband, and under his direction. This is my first in- dependent publication, and I try the experiment of writing as if viii Preface. talking with friends. I hope not to err too much the other way, and, in throwing off the usual rules of authorship, to gain by amusing and interesting those who read me, what I may lose in style. The British reading public, nay, all the world, likes personal detail. I trust, therefore, that they will excuse the incessant Ego of one who was only allowed to take a part in the events which happened during our residence in Syria ; and if this book proves to be the humble instrument that launches and prospers any one of my philanthropic projects for the Land of my heart, I shall have lived for some good purpose, and when I lie upon my death-bed I shall not be haunted by that nightmare thought—" I have never been of any use." Isabel Bukton. 14, Montague Place, Montague Squa/re, London, April, 1875. — CONTENTS OF VOL. I. CHAPTER I. rxoK From London to Alexandria ... ... ... ... ... 1 CHAPTER II. From Alexandria to Beyrout ... ... ... ... 10 CHAPTER III. The Road from Beyrout to Damascus ... ... ... ... 20 CHAPTER IV. Settling down at Damaecas ... ... ... ... ... 28 CHAPTER V. A General View of Damascus ... ... ... ... 39 CHAPTER VI. Description of the Haj, and what we saw ... ... ... 54 CHAPTER Vil. A Day's Shopping in the Bazars ... ... ... ... 73 CHAPTER VIII. Salahi'yyeh—Breakfast on Jebel Kaysun, and familiar Conversa- tion about Syria ... ... ... ... ... 93 CHAPTER IX. Continuation of familiar Conversation about Syria—Climate Health—Horses, and Treatment—Friendly Visits—Arab Cafes —Arab Dancing, Music, and Singing ... ... ... 115 CHAPTER X. Society —Reception Day—Customs—Turkish Officials ... ... 131 CHAPTER XI. The Environs of Damascus ... ... .. ... 139 Contents. CHAPTER XII. The nammam, or Turkish Bath—A friendly Evening at a Harim ... 144 CHAPTER XIII. The Darwaysh Dance—The Great Mosque—The Houses of Lisbona and AliBeg—The Jerid—Burial-Gronnds—Post-office— Church and Money matters ... ... ... ••• •• 1G6 CHAPTER XIV. Revival of Christianity ... ... ... ..• ... 180 CHAPTER XV. Palmyra, or Tadmor in the Wilderness ... ..* ... 204 CHAPTER XVI. Palmyra, ancient Tadmor (pronounced Tudmttr)—Stables at Home 226 and in Camp ... ... ... ... ... ..• CHAPTER XVII. Zahran's end— Chapels—Dragomans—Village Squabbles—Pariah 248 Dogs—Humane Society ... ... ... ... CHAPTER XVIII. Moslem Wedding — Sickness — Beyrout—Excursions — Society, Schools, and Missions—Return home—I fall in love with Damascus ... ... ... ... ... ... 264 CHAPTER XIX. Summer Quarters—Bludan in the Anti-Lebanon—Life in the Anti- Lebanon—Lord Clarendon's Death—Visitors—Mr. Palmer and Mr. Tyrvrhitt-Drake join us—We go Gipsying—Ba'albak and the Lebanon ... ... ... ... ... ... 278 CHAPTER XX. Disagreeables in Damascus—My Patients— Conscription—Village Squabbles—Mountain Life again—Vineyard Harvest—Moslems and Christians ... ... ... ... ... ... 305 CHAPTER XXI. Breezy times—Straggles between right and wrong—*' Fais ce que dois, advienne que pourra " ... ... ... ... 328 CHAPTER XXII. Gipsying again ... ... ... ... ... 344 THE INNER LIFE OF SYRIA. CHAPTER I. FROM LONDON TO ALEXANDRIA. " " Did you like Damascus ? Lihe it ! My eyes fill, and my heart throbs even at the question —the question that has been asked me by every one who has shaken hands with me since October, 1871. " " Why are you so fond of it ? " I don't know." "But surely you must have some reason. Was the climate " exquisite ? " No." " Were there great luxuries and comforts ? " Oh no quite an absence of them." ; " " Your marble palace ? "No; I hadn't one." " " Was there much gaiety or society ? "No; we were only thirty Europeans in all, hardly any English, and gaiety, as xve understand it, unknown." " " Had you any especial attraction ? " None." " Perhaps you liked the power and influence which your " husband's official position gave you ? " No ; I don't think I cared much for that, except when I saw B I h " ; 2 The Inner Life of Syria. others unliappy, poor, or oppressed, and I cared for power then, because it enabled me to relieve them." ! *' Well, but—you are incomprehensible—do explain (I am by this time dreamily seeking to say something that might be understood.) " I can't tell you—if you had lived there you would know. I hated it at first ; I saw the desert, it grew upon me. There are times, when I have sorrows, that I hunger and thirst for it ; times when the goings on in the world make me miserable, and I have to despise myself that my heart can be touched or my happiness affected by what concerns my fellow-creatures. Then a horror of the common groove, of the cab-shafts of civilization, of the con- tamination of cities, of the vulgarities of life, takes its hold of me, and I yearn for the desert to recover the purity of my mind and the dignity of human nature—to be regenerated amongst the Arabs. You cannot understand me, but I can understand you, because I have lived both lives." " " What do you mean by both lives ? " I mean the life that man has made, the life of London and Paris—the splendid school which rubs off the angles, which teaches us that we are nothing and nobody, which prevents us, by mixing with our equals and superiors, from becoming brutalized—that life so passionate, so intense, so struggling, and in which we ought all to pass one year out of four.
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