Sun, Wine and Olive Oil TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Index...Wine WINE in MÁLAGA

SPECIALMálaga EDITION Sun, Wine

TOURISTTOURIST BOARDBOARD && and Olive Oil CONVENTIONCONVENTION BUREAUBUREAU

SpecialTourist Guide 5 Editionwww.visitcostadelsol.com TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU index

. WINE IN MÁLAGA

. OLIVE OIL IN MÁLAGA

. USEFUL INFORMATION

PATRONATO PROVINCIAL DE TURISMO DE LA COSTA DEL SOL Palacio de Congresos y Exposiciones de la Costa del Sol C/ México, s/n, 4ª planta 29620 TORREMOLINOS- MÁLAGA- ESPAÑA Phone : (34) 952 058 694 Fax : (34) 952 050 311 / 952 370 406 E-mail: [email protected] Web : www.visitacostadelsol.com

2 www.visitcostadelsol.com acknowledgements editorial . Index Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU index...wine WINE IN MÁLAGA

0. Introduction

1. Málaga Wine through the years

2. Málaga Wine making and traditions

3. General typology

4. Grape growing and wine-pproducing regions

5. Tourist routes

6. Málaga Wine culture

7. Málaga Wine and gastronomy

8. The Control Board for Málaga and Sierras de Málaga Denominations of Origin

9. Wineries and wine tasting

3 www.visitcostadelsol.com acknowledgements editorial . Index Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil introduction WINE IN MÁLAGA We would like to ask The main grape varieties used to make DO Málaga wines are muscatel and those who visit Costa del Sol to come pedro ximén. with us and follow the trail of vineyards, wineries and people related to Málaga Nowadays, there is a new Designation of Origin: Sierras de Málaga (from Wine, to invite them to go deep into the now on, DO Sierras de Málaga), which includes wines that are not traditional land and take the Wine Routes across wines in Málaga, namely, white, red and rosé, made from different grape the province. varieties.

The land in Málaga reflects its wine, and Málaga has a rich and complex variety of landscapes and it is a the wine reflects its land, which is not by microclimate paradise. From the coast to the 2,000 m above sea level chance, since each one lends the other areas, we will find vineyards and, next to them, villages which mirror the their character and name until they Andalusian charm irradiating its own culture, folklore, natural beauty and the become completely merged. lifestyle of their inhabitants.

Before taking the road, it is important to learn some details about wines: Let's go!

Málaga grows wine since time immemorial, even if its traditional wine, the wine that travels around the world, is that known as wine with Designation of Origin Málaga (from now on, DO Málaga). Denominacion de Origen, the Spanish system for wine classification that fits the requirements of the European Union's top-quality wine category, guarantees wines' origin and quality, and in this designation, numerous types of wines are included, but for the moment we will focus on sweet wines, which are the best known, not the only ones, though.

4 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Introduction Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Many people from Málaga who travel to far-off places have heard the phrase "Your town bears the name of a wine". For in the old days, when tourism was not that common, Málaga was not equalled to sun and beaches, let alone with a southern Spanish province -Málaga was just a type of wine.

Indeed, in the beginning there was the land, then there was its wine, but it is true that this wine embraces the quintessence of the Mother Earth in which the grapes grow: its sun, sea, light, contrasts, the sweetness and joy of Málaga, all of which can be savoured in each sip. This is still so, but let's look retrospectively to know what the life of these Málaga's ambassadors, its wines, has been like. 1. mÁLAGA WINE THROUGH Before we start, we would like to offer one more detail: there was an epoch in which vineyards in Málaga covered 110,000 ha, while THE YEARS nowadays they cover only 5,000 in Axarquía, the Mountains of Málaga, the Serranía de Ronda, the Western Coast, and the Northern Region (Antequera). These areas maintain the deep mysteries of an ancient vineyard tradition more than 25 centuries old, marked by a rugged terrain, the sun and sea.

On the banks of the Guadalhorce river, Phoenicians founded Mainake (Málaga) in the 12th century BC. They imported the first grapes and elaborated the first musts. From then on, Málaga has been transformed in a wine producing region.

5 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine through the years Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil But we have to move back to the Roman period if we want to know how wine making and exports have permeated the local society. Today, traces of those centuries still remain.

SOME REMAINS FROM THE OLD DAYS

In Málaga, there are still some symbols that remind us of past times stressed by wine culture. You can visit Acinipo, the old Roman city in Ronda, whose name stands for "city Once in the 8th century, vineyards and wine production fermented the of wine", where a number of coins with a cluster of grapes stamped on them economy of southern Spain. At that period, as is still customary for them, have been found, a fact that tells a lot about the importance of grape growing in Muslims in Spain had to comply with Quranic laws, which prohibit alcohol the region. A visit to Acinipo is included in the wine route across Ronda. consumption, but they managed to turn a blind eye to religious regulations regarding this matter. In fact, during the seven centuries of Muslim rule, the In Cártama, some 30 km away from the capital city of the province of Málaga, a number of vineyards increased strikingly. Probably, the plantation boom was wine press was found in a plot of land dating back to the late Roman Empire. due to raisin production or to wine distillation for medical use, for people had The press consists in a prismatic fermentation vat that connects through some taken the habit of drinking some wine on behalf of health care. Xarab al tubes with the recipient where the grape juice was obtained. This finding reveals Malaqui was the name given by Allah's sons to what Christians called the first traces of wine-making in Málaga. Málaga Wine.

In the city of Málaga, capital of the province, at the Plaza de la Constitución, you Such Spanish words as alcohol, alambique (still) and arrope (grape syrup), will find the building belonging to the Royal Charitable Organisation "Pío de all of them of Islamic origin, were incorporated into the Spanish language Socorro" for wine-growers and grape harvesters in the Diocese of Málaga during Muslim rule in the Spanish Peninsula. The Moorish muscatel grape (1776). This society was founded to protect local farmers from foreign was highly prized by Muslims, an appreciation closely linked to the Málaga merchants' wrongs. Foreign merchants gave money to local farmers as an Wine that has come down to our time. advance payment for the harvest they agreed to deliver to the moneylenders.

6 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine through the years Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil ARAB CULTURE AND MÁLAGA WINE

Almaccari de Tremecen is one of the few Arab writers whose texts have come down to us. He collected an anonymous poem where the vineyards in Málaga are praised: "Its land (Málaga) was covered with vineyards, one linked to the other until they reached mount Xolair (Sierra Nevada), which, when the vines were leafy, offered one of the most wonderful views in the world."

He claims the wine was excellent, both the legal one and the wine forbidden to Muslims. There is a passage in his texts that is connected with this issue: the author comments that there was once a Muslim who, knowing that he was about to die, said, "pray to your Lord for mercy." And he, raising his hands to heaven, exclaimed, "Oh, My Lord! Out of all things I can do in Heaven, I only fancy drinking some Málaga Wine." 2002 was the year of the 5th centenary of this historical landmark in the Málaga Wine history, which was widely celebrated.

The 17th century witnessed the beginnings of the Málaga Wine expansion, In the 15th century, Málaga, a seaport city, had already been weaving a and in the 18th century, it was already world famous. In English speaking commercial network based on wine, and winemaking had already become nations, it was called "mountain" because it came from the mountains one of the main pillars of its economy. When Ferdinand and Isabella the surrounding the Hoya de Málaga (the Monutains of Málaga). In England it Catholics took over the city in 1487, they were asked by winegrowers to was also known as malligo sack, and in France, as vins de Málaga. issue regulations protecting their interests. The story goes that Catherine II, the Czarina of Russia, after tasting some 12 January 1502 is a landmark, for that day the first Royal Decree was Málaga Wine offered by Spanish Ambassador Miguel de Gálvez, liked the issued establishing the Hermandad de Viñeros de Málaga (Málaga wine and she declared null and void all regulations on import tariffs on this Winegrowers' Union), the present Control Board's predecessor. The Union's product. ordinances contributed to the international prestige of Málaga Wine well into the 19th century. These years were glorious for Málaga Wine, as they saw in it the wonders of the land in which this pure nectar was produced.

7 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine through the years Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil By the mid 19th century, the devastating pests that attacked other SOME CURIOUS FACTS ABOUT MÁLAGA WINE IN RUSSIA, European regions also affected Spanish vines. Grape phylloxera AMERICA AND ENGLAND reached Málaga in 1876, ruining its vineyards.

In 1620, the Mayflower brought a British cooper, John Alden, from England to Muscatel and pedro ximén varieties survived thanks to the propagation America, where he came across the red oak, a tree whose wood was perfect for of Vitis riparia on their rootstocks. These two European varieties were wine storage and handling. Soon after arrival, he started exporting staves made the only ones to remain, and since then they have contributed to our from this tree species to Spain. Wine-producers in Málaga learned the benefits wines' character. wood brought for wine handling and also for enhancing its quality. As wine quality increased, there was an exports boom. Recently, the Málaga Wine production has been expanding, and together with this expansion, good news arrived: in 2001, the Spain also imported a remedy against the grape phylloxera from America, for its Government of Andalusia's Official Gazette included the regulations in grape varieties were, and still are, phylloxera-resistant plants. This is why effect today, which added the DO Sierras de Málaga, now coexisting American plants were used for grafting: they were used to improve European with the DO Málaga. vines, resulting in the only ones apt for quality wine making and immune to the pest. Ronda was born again as a vineyard land when new wineries were opened and new vineyards were established. The Northern Region In 1769, there was an event in England that showed the fame that Málaga Wine (Antequera) has pioneered the revamping of its wineries' aesthetics and had already gained in the 18th century: the well-known James Christie, founder the production of high-quality wines. Axarquía is fighting against its of the art auctioneer firm Crhistie's in London, organised a wine and liquor rough soil and facing the eternal dilemma of choosing between auction held on 7 and 8 September: 400 bottles of high-quality wine were sold, producing raisins or wine. In the Mountains of Málaga, several projects among which there were some Málaga Wine bottles. related to the establishment of wineries are under study. In Málaga city, they keep ageing wines and also contribute to the spread of wine There are many allusions and stories related to Málaga Wine in Russia. Just to culture. Finally, in the Western Coast, the debate has opened recently mention one of them, we should recall the Russian novelist Fyodor Dostoevsky on fostering either vine growth or urban development. (1821-1881), who refers to Málaga Wine in some of his works, a fact that reveals the importance of the product in Russia. In Stepantchikovo, one of the In 2005, the Wine Museum in Málaga opened its doors to the public. It characters says: "To get well again, try with Málaga Wine. Málaga Wine… now, is an interactive museum showing the history of a generous land that is that's something!" home to wines which are grateful to the sea that lends them their travelling vocation.

8 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine through the years Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Málaga is a genuine wine land due to its nature and to the moment at which wine-making started, 25 centuries ago, when the Greeks occupied the area. This reality has laid a rich tradition that turns Málaga into a unique place. The modern Málaga Wine, even if it has an updated image and quality, still preserves age-old winemaking traditions. Let's look at some of the traditions we will come across in our trip along the Málaga Wine routes.

GRAPE SYRUP

Málaga Wines are complex because they are produced based on an ensemble or blending of various base wines (natural sweet wine; vino maestro, which comes form a very incomplete fermentation; and vino tierno, a partially fermented wine) into which a small proportion of grape syrup is added to give them the characteristic colour of the DO Málaga 2. mÁLAGA WINE MAKING AND Wines. All this blend furnishes Málaga Wine with its extraordinary and TRADITIONS singular personality. The grape-syrup making process requires concentrated must, which GRAPE SYRUP comes from grapes exposed to heat. The must boils, either over direct heat or in a bain-marie, until it is reduced to 1/3 of its initial volume. In the SUN DRYING old days, grape syrup was spread on bread slices and served as an afternoon snack, for its alcohol content is virtually zero. GRAPE VARIETIES Nowadays, only two wineries in Málaga produce and distribute grape syrup: AGEING IN CRIADERAS AND SOLERAS Inversiones Santa Ana and López Madrid.

SOME CURIOSITIES

9 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine making and traditions Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil SUN DRYING

The wine routes along the Norhtern Region or Axarquía take us well into one of the most genuine traditions: SUN DRYING. Laying grapes in the sun is an exclusive Andalusian custom required both for the elaboration of some sweet wines and to make raisins. Sun-dried grapes used to make wine are overripe grapes. Once the grape harvest is over, grapes for sun-drying are selected and, in August and September, they are laid in the sun in PASEROS, which are structures specially built for placing fruit in an orderly fashion.

Sun-drying is a traditional method which demands workers to crouch about to turn the grape clusters over so as to ensure they are exposed to the same heat and light quantity on every inch of their surface. The task is really painstaking: in Axarquía, for instance, the paseros are covered with canopies every night in order to prevent grapes from being affected by inclement weather. GRAPE VARIETIES

This system allows for dehydrating grapes and increasing sugar The most widely distributed varieties in the province of Málaga, not the only concentration. When grapes are used for making raisins, they are reduced ones, though, are muscatel and pedro ximén. There was a time when this to 1/3 of their original volume. The story goes that sun-drying was "invented" was not so: before the phylloxera pest arrival (19th century), Málaga had in Axarquía in order to reduce the fruit weight so that carrying it to the press already built a vast international market centred on wine, and there were after the harvest would not mean such great an effort, for the terrain slope many grape varieties that could never be recovered. Today, the La and crags in "the eastern land", as Arabs used to call it, made wine-growers Concepción Botanical Garden in Málaga city grows an enormous number of think it twice before setting out to climb. Most probably, sun-drying and raisin varieties that are cultivated, even if no longer in Málaga, in many other areas production were introduced by the Arabs to compensate for the ban on wine around the world. This cultivation project, designed to revive the tradition, is drinking. being brought to fruition by the Control Board for Designations of Origin Málaga and Sierras de Málaga, together with other institutions.

10 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine making and traditions Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Salvador Rueda, the Málaga-born poet, has dedicated a beautiful poem AGEING IN CRIADERAS AND SOLERAS to the different varieties that were cultivated in the region: mollares, tempranas, rondeñas, lairenes, otelo, perrunas, sultanas, cabrieles, The ageing method for maturing Málaga Wine has been inherited from romen, montúas, lojas, baladíes, perojiménez, jaqueles, cabrito, albalá, an old tradition consisting in keeping wine in oak barrels (in Málaga, jaenes, don bueno or santa paula, telaburra and marbellíes. All these they are called botas). Today, the criaderas and soleras system, also names were coined by the wine-growers of Álora, Campanillas, Gaucín used in making other Andalusian wines, is the common practice for DO or any other village from the Mountains or Serranía de Ronda, all of Málaga Wines but not for DO Sierras de Málaga ones. them belonging to a province which was essentially vinicultural, and whose products were included under the same umbrella name -Málaga. On visiting wineries in Málaga, we can see that barrels are piled up forming aisles. To the layman's eye it could seem that this arrangement There is a peculiar story about the PEDRO XIMÉN variety. Different is made to optimise space; the reason, however, is quite different: the versions point at its foreign origin. One of these versions mentions need to transfer wine from one container to another during the ageing Pero, a Flemish, son of Simon -maybe this explains the coinage of the process. term-, who carried grapes from Germany to Spain, for he saw similarities between the climate of the Rhin valley and Spain. Actually, The first tier of barrels is called solera because it is nearer to the ground the Iberian Peninsula's milder weather and its good quality soil were (suelo in Spanish), and it keeps mature wine, one of the main products beneficial to the above mentioned variety, from which a better-tasting contributing to the region's wealth. From these barrels, mature wine is and smoother wine was obtained. taken for bottling and commercialisation. The empty space left when wine is drawn off the barrels in the solera is refilled with liquid form the There are authors who consider that this variety comes from the Canary barrels in the next upper tier. This process keeps going until the barrels Islands, from where it was carried first to the Madeira Islands, Portugal, on top are filled with wine form the current year. In this way, the mature and then to the Rhin valley. In Germany, a man called Pero (or Pedro) wine becomes "refreshed" and the product is always launched to the Simon (or Siemens), a soldier in the 16th century Flemish army during market maintaining an homogeneous quality. Charles V's reign, feeling repentance of his deeds, decided to lay down his arms and became a farmer. So he came to Málaga, where he grafted the variety he had brought with him onto local vines.

11 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine making and traditions Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil SOME CURIOSITIES

"WINED" BARRELS Everybody knows how important wood is to the ageing of wine and other liquors. However, some people do not know that the best brandies and other alcoholic drinks are aged in barrels previously "wined" or soaked up with Málaga Wine, which results in top quality spirits, much better than those obtained with "unwined" barrels.

MÁLAGA WINE, A MASS WINE Catholic liturgy uses wine for the Consecration. The Vatican laws demand a natural, fermented, not vinegary and pure grape wine, with an alcohol level ranging between 12 and 18 percent, recommending lower levels if possible, and always taking into account perfect condition and absolute purity, for different standards would not be suitable for liturgical purposes.

Ageing Málaga Wine in oak barrels guarantees a perfect quality standard for the Catholic Church to use in religious services. The barrels destined to obtain mass wine bear labels such as "Proveedores del Papa" (The Pope's supplier), "Con Arreglo a la Liturgia" (Suitable for Liturgy) or "Apto para la Iglesia" (Fit for the Church).

12 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine making and traditions Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil In Málaga, there are two main types of wine: Designation of Origin Málaga and Designation of Origin Sierras de Málaga.

DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN MÁLAGA (DO MÁLAGA)

There are two main groups within the DO Málaga:

- Naturally sweet wine: its alcohol content comes entirely from fermentation. - Vin de liqueur or fortified wine: alcohol is added to it at a certain point in the fermentation process

3. gENERAL TYPOLOGY Naturally sweet wine: This wine is made from overripe grapes (dehydrated either because of sun drying or grape-harvest delay) belonging to pedro ximén or muscatel varieties. Their must is rich in sugar: more than 300 g/l, without any artificial DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN MÁLAGA increase in alcohol level so that alcohol comes entirely from fermentation and reaches a maximum of 13% alcohol by volume. DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN SIERRAS DE MÁLAGA Vin de liqueur or fortified wine: This DO Málaga wine is fortified with alcohol. According to sugar content wines are classified into sweet, semisweet and dry.

13 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . General Typology Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil The most famous DO Málaga Wine in the world is sweet wine.

A) SWEET WINE What is sweet wine?

Grape juice or must is turned into wine through yeast fermentation, yeasts Base wines for sweet wine making: being microorganisms which are always floating in the air and also live on Natural Sweet Wine: It is made with must bearing a minimum of 212 g/l of the grapes skin. sugars and a minimum alcohol level of 7% by volume.

Yeasts, which feed from sugars existing in the must, grow and multiply at Vino Maestro: Ethyl alcohol is added to the must before fermentation starts. high speed. During fermentation, they transform food into carbon dioxide, a In this way, the fermentation process is delayed and stops when 100 g/l of gas that evaporates, and alcohol, a liquid that stays in the medium where it sugar remain and the alcohol level reaches 15 -16 % vol. is produced. Yeasts do not tolerate alcohol well, so if there is high initial concentration of sugar in the fruit itself or in its must, the alcohol produced Vino Tierno: It is made from grapes sun-dried during a long time, which can kill yeasts before they can consume all the sugar present in the results in musts very rich in sugar, over 350 g/l. The must starts the medium. In this case, the resulting wine will be sweet. fermentation process and then ethyl alcohol is added.

Sometimes, wine sweetness is artificially generated by adding alcohol, Sweet table wine: lowering the medium temperature, i.e. changing the microorganisms' right When base wines have been elaborated, wine-producers can choose environment variables so that they cannot grow or multiply properly. between: 1. blending two or three base wines to make a final product for Sweet Málaga Wine requires quite a complex elaboration process: Each commercialisation, or winery creates their sweet wine following certain standards and traditional 2. commercialising the base wines under their corresponding names: blending (combination of different wines) patterns, a goal for which they "natural sweet wine", "vino tierno" or "vino maestro". make "base wines", whose name vary depending on how they are produced. B) DRY, MEDIUM-DRY AND OFF-DRY WINE In addition to the famous sweet wines that qualify for the Málaga DO, the following wines are made:

14 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . General Typology Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil TRADITIONAL TERMS FOR TABLE WINES QUALIFYING FOR DO MÁLAGA

Depending on different characteristics such as colour, the origin of must, sugar content or ageing, these wines can also bear additional names on their labels:

A) COLOUR

Dorado (Golden): Mature natural sweet wine, or naturally sweet, with no additional grape syrup. Rojo Dorado (Tawny): Mature vin de liqueur or fortified wine, with C) SUGAR CONTENT additional grape syrup, 5% by volume. Oscuro (Dark): Mature vin de liqueur with additional grape syrup between Dulce Crema or Cream: Wine containing sugar within a range of 100 g/l 5 and 10% percent by volume. and 140 g/l. Its colour may vary between amber and dark amber. Color (Colour): Mature vin de liqueur with additional grape syrup between Dry Pale or Pale Dry: Vin de liqueur or fortified wine made with no grape 10 and 15% by volume. syrup addition, with a total sugar content lower than 45 g/l. Negro (Black): Mature vin de liqueur with additional grape syrup, over 15% Sweet: Vin de liqueur with a total sugar content over 140 g/l and further by volume. ageing process. Its colour may vary between amber and black. Pajarete: Mature vin de liqueur with a total sugar content between 45 and B) ORIGIN OF MUST: 140 g/l, with no additional grape syrup. Its colour ranges between amber and dark amber Lágrima: Wine made from must obtained from free-run juice, i.e. without external mechanical pressure.

15 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . General Typology Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil D) WINE AGEING DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN SIERRAS DE MÁLAGA (DO SIERRAS DE MÁLAGA) There are two methods used for ageing Málaga Wine: Classification Ageing by vintage (static system): Wine made in a certain year is put into Colour: barrels for ageing. White: Made from light-skinned grapes fermented without their skin. Red: Made from dark-skinned grapes which remain in contact with their skin Ageing in soleras (dynamic system): Barrels are arranged lined in tiers so that their colour is transferred into the liquid during fermentation. Usually, (andanas) piled one over the other (each row is called escala). The lowest the stalks are removed to obtain not so tannic wines. escala is the solera, for in Spanish suelo (the term from which solera Rosé: Made from dark-skinned grapes which remain in contact with their derives) stands for ground. Mature wine is drawn off from this lowest tier, skin for a while so that dark colour is transferred into the liquid. For further and the room left in the lower barrels is refilled with wine from the upper row. fermentation, the skin is removed. The row located on top is filled with young wine. Ageing: Classification according to ageing: Joven (young): New wine of the current year which has not been aged. Crianza (aged): Wine aged for at least 2 years. Málaga Pálido (Pale Málaga): Young wine Reserva (reserve): For red wine making, wine must be left at least 36 Málaga: 6 to 24 months ageing months in a cask or bottle -12 months should be in oak casks-. For white Málaga Noble (Noble Málaga): 2 to 3 years ageing and rosé wines, the ageing period is 24 months minimum -6 months in oak Málaga Añejo (Mature Málaga): 3 to 5 years ageing casks-. Málaga Trasañejo (Fully Mature Málaga): Over 5 years ageing Gran Reserva (grand reserve): In order to be classified as grand reserve, red wines must be aged for at least 24 months in oak casks and for at least The ageing by vintage or static method is used to make some Málaga DO another 36 months in bottles. For white and rosé wines, the minimum period Wines, while the soleras system is used to make other wines included in the is 48 months in casks and bottles, at least 6 of which must take place in same DO. casks made of oak.

Wines belonging to the Sierras de Málaga DO are aged using the vintage system only.

16 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . General Typology Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil AXARQUÍA

OVERVIEW

Axarquía's vineyard region resembles a bobbin lace where vineyards are its knots. Protected by the Tejeda and Almijara mountain ranges, the vineyards go through the region's rugged terrain. In the heart of the "eastern land", as the Arabs used to call it, lie the ancestors of the Málaga's vineyards.

Comares is the vantage point from which all the region can be viewed. The landscape is breathtaking, with its picturesque Andalusian white villages bathed by the sun and full of geraniums as if they were grape 4. gRAPE GROWING AND WINE- clusters under the sun. PRODUCING REGIONS When travelling from the Mediterranean coast to the mountain, visitors will go deep into the muscatel paradise. This grape variety is the typical one in AXARQUÍA this region, and the aroma of the wines produced with it is superb. Muscatel grapes are also used to make raisins qualifying for DO Málaga. MOUNTAINS OF MÁLAGA Visitors will be impressed by the region's raisin and wine tradition that has marked its inhabitants: true artisans of the land and its fruits. In this region, the NORTHERN REGION wine and raisin world are interwoven -one cannot live without the other.

SERRANÍA DE RONDA

WESTERN COAST

17 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Axarquía Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil AXARQUÍA

18 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Axarquía Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil VARIETIES AND CULTIVATION

In Axarquía, all the land Work is not over after harvesting, for sweet wine and raisins require grapes is covered by vines: to be sun-dried. Visitors who come over in August will be able to see the men's hands have not wonderful paseros, a farmhouse tradition now existing only in the province left any barren square of Málaga. inch of land throughout the years. Grape Depending on what the grapes will be used for -raisins or wine making-- they harvesters have worked are exposed to the sun for longer or shorter periods respectively. If grapes hard beneath the sun, are used for making raisins, they are reduced to one third of their original one that does not set volume, the other two thirds evaporate. even in winter -cold weather is unknown here. Both the plantation and then raisins and wine making in this peculiar region Vine cultivating in Axarquía means fighting hand to hand with the terrain. No in the Málaga province need the whole family's labour, from the children to mechanisation can be implemented here, and the only aid men can count grandparents -quite a particular way of life. on are the beasts of burden that carry the harvested fruit from the The region's vines cover some 3,000 ha, all plantations to the paseros for sun-drying or to the press. Crops are low- of which are occupied by muscatel variety pruning and the slopes are so highly steep in some areas that vine for fruit consumption as a dessert, and for cultivation in Axarquía is also known as heroic or steep-slope cultivation. making wine and raisins.

Sometimes, young wine-growers find it extremely hard to follow the land's Axarquía's muscatel variety is best known tradition, and they leave the estates inherited from their parents to earn a for its characteristic superb aroma and living in the construction or tourism sectors. Some others come back to the sweetness. Its musts reach 15º Baumé vineyard with innovative ideas and set up their own wineries based on what prior to sun-drying. This variety has been in they learned from their grandparents or in university courses. Thus, new Axarquía for ages. The region's poor soil wineries are emerging in Axarquía, where the Control Board for Designation and the sunny and dry climate lead to low of Origin offers expert advice. production volumes and high fruit quality. Wine produced in Axarquía is sweet, well- While travelling around, you will see vineyards one after the other as if they rounded and rich. were just one, but actually they are all smallholdings. The land is divided into a lot of parcels, each one covering no more than one hectare.

19 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Axarquía Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil SOIL AND CLIMATE

Axarquía extends from the coast to the interior of the province of Málaga, forming a corridor that reaches peaks more than 2,000 metres high. As the region is near the sea, it benefits from the high relative humidity needed to grow muscatel grapes, but at the same time flowers do not fertilise efficiently, so that they develop into a low number of good quality grapes. This is a consequence of natural selection, to which the region's soil features also contribute. Other environmental characteristics also have impact on the good quality of the fruit; for example, the Mediterranean climate with its mild winters featuring temperatures no lower than 10ºC. All these factors have a beneficial influence on the fruit quality, but they also determine low production volumes.

The region has the poorest soil in the province. It is a shallow clayish slate soil that soon reaches the country rock, which makes farming more difficult. Axarquía is enormous. The Vélez river divides the vine area into two: the eastern and the low areas. In low Axarquía (Moclinejo, Almáchar, El Borge, SUMMARY BACKGROUND Cútar, Comares and Totalán), harvest starts in early August, the earliest harvest time in the whole province. In eastern Axarquía (Cómpeta), it starts Vine-growing has not been an easy task in Axarquía. What has kept the at the beginning of September. region's vines alive is the spirit embedded in its traditions, determination and courage, making every effort to maintain the quality The yearly rainfall here is 400 litres, the province's lowest figure. of its vines, even in tough times.

Today, wines made in Axarquía are at their greatest splendour. Traditionally, the region used to supply must to wineries in the capital, but nowadays it has many wineries whose products are really good. Muscatel has scaled great heights to reach excellent sweet and dry wine production steps.

20 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Axarquía Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil MOUNTAINS OF MÁLAGA

21 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil MOUNTAINS OF MÁLAGA This whole set is called lagar, which normally means press. This particular use of the word has been kept for centuries. OVERVIEW The white houses drawn on the landscape are called lagartos, all with their Málaga is surrounded by mountains that make the sea its natural way out vines, press and woodland. Today, only a small number of them remain, for and protect the city against weather inclemency. Sierra de Mijas, Serranía the majority were abandoned at the dawn of the 20th century. de Ronda and El Torcal are foothills of the Sierra Nevada that form a capricious mountain amphitheatre. The view from the peaks is really The system of vine cultivation in the Mountains of Málaga is known as beautiful: forests, mountains, and down there lies Málaga, white and steep-slope cultivation. Some vines grow in an almost vertical terrain that elongated along the seacoast. The Guadalmedina river flows to the makes it impossible to introduce mechanisation and also makes manual Mediterranean sea, cutting the region and the city into two. work difficult. This situation leads to the preservation of ancient cultivation This vine and wine-making region is the paradise of one of the most genuine traditions. varieties in Málaga: pedro ximén. It is also a point of reference in the world of wine and one of its privileged sites The Mountains of Málaga are a region in which harvesting takes place late, for it starts VARIETIES AND CULTIVATION in September and sometimes it goes on well into October. The lagares or plantation areas cover around 15 ha in the Pedro ximén is the variety in Mountains region, one of their this viticulture region, but peculiar aspect is that in the muscatel also grows here. In same place there are the land England, wines made with with its wild flora, occupying one pedro ximén were called tenth of the area, the vines and mountain wines and were other crops for the locals' well known back in the 18th century, when Málaga Wine was a common consumption. drink at tables around the globe. Today, the term "mountain wine" is considered as incorrect, since sometimes it is used for wines not produced in Málaga, and some other times, it refers to drinks that are not even wine; thus, the right term is Málaga Wine.

22 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil SOIL AND CLIMATE

The soil of the Mountains of Málaga is made of decomposing slate, one of The yearly rainfall is 500 l/m2, a good volume for vineyards. Besides, the the best types for vine growing, a soil that witnessed the birth of great wines. slate soil keeps humidity, which benefits the plants. It is a shallow layer, between 10 and 30 cm, below which the country rock lies. The vine roots are huge: they keep on growing down into the slate rock in search for water. SUMMARY BACKGROUND

During the period of Muslim rule, the region had plenty of woods, then cut down with the advance of the Reconquest. It was in these spots that the first vines started to grow because the land was distributed among people who cultivated them and organised their life centred on the vineyards.

However, as a consequence of the cut-down of trees and the slate soil, there was continuous flooding of the Guadalmedina river on its way to the sea, which even affected the historical centre of the city of Málaga. When the phylloxera reached the Mountains of Málaga, ruining its vineyards, the population headed for the province's capital city. Each plant yields one or one and a half kg of grapes. There is a natural selection trait, different from other regions in Málaga, which makes it The eastern slope was populated again in 1950, and it became the Montes necessary to harvest early in order to improve grape quality. de Málaga Natural Park. This viticulture and viniculture region includes the The production volume is low but this is made up for by the superb quality ageing wineries settled in the city of Málaga. of the grape, which makes the cultivation in this rugged terrain profitable both for the vine-grower and the wine-producer.

Travelling only 10 kilometres from the coast towards the mountains, you will reach an altitude of almost 1,000 m. This feature influences the climate, for there is a large temperature difference between day and night, which in turn affects the grape, so the wines made from it are a bit acid.

23 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil NORTHERN REGION

24 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Northern Region Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil NORTHERN REGION

OVERVIEW

The Northern Region produces a good proportion of the wines included in the DO Málaga. Antequera is the administrative centre of the region, but the heart of vine cultivation lies in Molina and Fuente de Piedra. Both localities are home to the most important, the largest and oldest viticulture companies in Málaga, such as Inversiones Santa Ana (subsidiary of López Hermanos), Cooperativa Virgen de la Oliva and Larios P.R. Yet, these are not the only companies established in the area, as new, smaller ones that make quality wine and foster wine tourism have emerged.

In 2003, Cooperativa Virgen de la Oliva, a winery that produces quality wine, was established in the region, paving the way for the birth of other wineries, many of them restored and others newly created.

So the winds started to change for the better in this region in 2001, when the This generous land witnesses big plantations living together with small ones Control Board cancelled the regulation that made it compulsory to ageing as well as new experimental cultivation of dark and light-skinned varieties wine in the Málaga communal area, and therefore it can be aged in wine- never seen in Málaga before, used to make quality dry wine that will be making areas at present. launched under the DO Sierras de Málaga.

VARIETIES AND CULTIVATION The traditional Málaga varieties, pedro ximén and muscatel, are prominent in the vineyards covering hundreds of ha, but pedro ximén is the true Vine cultivation covers near 1,000 ha, and the volume produced here is the protagonist in the Northern Region. highest in the province. The relatively flat terrain, characteristic of the Northern Region, allows for farming mechanisation. However, cultivation by As for muscatel, in this region it yields small berries also called "Moorish", hand is still used in many vineyards because it is required for some tasks, because this variety from Alexandria grows better near the coast. This is sun-drying, for instance, which is a traditional practice in the elaboration of why the small-grape variant is more abundant in Axarquía. Málaga Wine.

25 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Northern Region Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil SOIL AND CLIMATE SUMMARY BACKGROUND

The Northern Region's relief features both plains and low hillocks. Its Viticulture and viniculture tradition in the Northern Region started around climate consists of cold winters and hot summers, with high temperature 1950, when the first vines were planted with the aim of offering the variations between day and night; yearly rainfall is 500 l/m2, irregularly population a reason to stay in the countryside instead of looking for a distributed through the year. promissory future in the growing industrial sector at that moment. The introduction of vines in this region helped people decide to settle in it. Vines, together with olive trees, became the axis around which the economy of the Northern Region has spun since then. Wine and olives are the main farming products here, totalling 50% of the region's business sales figures.

Today, the Northern Region is an emerging one, where investments are channelled mainly into tourism, an industry that also benefits from wine- making related activities contributing to a true revolution in inland tourism.

The vineyard extends along the border of the high plateau in Antequera, which lies 500 m above sea level. The soil consists in Cretaceous slates, and in the subsoil there is usually a claypan layer, a sedimentary rock with fine-grain sand and clay arranged in thin layers. Soil layers in the Northern Region are rather shallow, no thicker than 10 cm in some areas.

26 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Northern Region Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil SERRANÍA DE RONDA

27 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil SERRANÍA DE RONDA

OVERVIEW CULTIVATION CHARACTERISTICS

Located west of Málaga, Ronda has one of the most undulated terrains in Vines are currently being planted in Ronda. Most cultivations use the head- the province. It is best known for its landscape, beautiful villages and its trained system, and they cover between 5 and 20 ha. On the hills, famous bullring. The region is now starting to write the first chapters of the technological innovation works together with the very favourable soil and book on its peculiar wine history, which, after many years of being practically climate for the production of quality grapes. 90% out of all the vines are not existent, has started to inscribe quite many events in it. dark-skinned varieties. Many plantations are still on their experimental stage, and each wine-grower is assessing the development of their vines, A boom started before the 1980's, and at the dawn of the 21st century, the most abundant being tempranillo, syrah, cabernet sauvignon and Ronda began to witness the materialisation of a great number of viticulture merlot. and winery new projects.

Therefore, there are no reconversion projects; instead, all the projects are for new vineyards and wineries -carefully designed vineyards an wineries aiming at producing quality wine. The cutting-edge technology and the architectural imagination expressed in local wineries are in full harmony with the surrounding natural beauty. The wine routes the Serranía offers are particularly charming, mirroring the richness that wine-making art has brought to Ronda.

Almost all the wineries in Ronda make red, white and rosé wines under the DO Sierras de Málaga and the sub-designation Serranía de Ronda.

Although some wine-growers established wineries in the 80's, it was not until the 21st century that wines from Ronda were launched into the market, even if there had been a few exceptions.

28 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil SOIL AND CLIMATE SUMMARY BACKGROUND

The city of Ronda is situated on two hills divided by a deep ravine (Tajo de Apparently, Ronda wants to settle a debt with the history of wine. More than Ronda). There is a set of complex microclimates that have an impact on vine two thousand years ago, Ronda was a wine land, but the only remains from cultivation. Grazalema and Sierra de las Nieves are the most prominent the original vines lie in the ruins of Acinipo, a city nesting on the mountain mountain ranges, at whose foothills vines do well, protected from the wind. range. One of the maxims every wine-grower must follow is that you will not plant vines where the Romans have not done so: if you try you will fail for The continental type of climate dominates Ronda, with large temperature sure. The Romans used to study the soil and temperatures, and they differences between day and night -even in the summer- which contribute to concluded that vines would not grow over a certain altitude. the high quality of the grapes from this region. Ronda started its career as a wine producing region only at the end of the 20th century. Today, vines are no longer a symbolic crop but a real economic entity even at the international level, which can be easily observed at the heavy investments in new wineries over a short period of time.

The new class of vine-growers and wine-producers was born in the land of Ronda itself, which has welcomed them warmly. They are true artisans who are in line with the region's essence -the essence of vines and wineries. Little by little, the first wines are emerging while vines start bearing their fruit. Undoubtedly, the region has a promising future.

Ronda's rainfall is the highest in Málaga, with an average volume reaching 600 l per year.

Slates are predominant in Ronda's soil, which is not homogeneous from vineyard to vineyard. In some plantations mechanisation can be implemented, while in others, stones and steep slopes make it difficult to use such modern farming methods. Experts agree on the fact that Ronda's soil is at its peak in terms of maturity.

29 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil WESTERN COAST

30 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Western Coast Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil WESTERN COAST

Estepona and Marbella stand out for their tourism oriented economy, which OVERVIEW has taken land from the vineyard as time passed by.

VARIETIES AND CULTIVATION

Grapes from the Western Coast are destined to eat as dessert, to make raisins and, to a lesser extent, to make wine. The most widely cultivated variety is the Alexandria or Málaga muscatel, with its meaty and intensely aromatic fruit.

The introduction of muscatel in the mid 20th century meant an extension of a vineyard that had been reducing as a consequence of restrictions to commerce in the 19th century, when winemaking came to be placed in a subordinate position.

Nowadays, the whole vineyard covers a very small area, and it has recently been further reduced due to housing developments. The largest cultivated This vine-growing and wine-producing region is situated on the western end area lies in Manilva, occupying an area of around 500 ha. of the province. To the west it borders on Campo de Gibraltar, in Cadiz. Manilva is the traditional heart of the surrounding vineyard, which isolates Vines are grown in three localities: Manilva, Estepona and Marbella, where the inland village. tourism has had such an impact that they have virtually abandoned wine producing. This activity is now just symbolic in a region that was one of the Sugar content is not checked before harvesting; this is why some wine- main producers of wine in the province in the old days. growers start harvesting in mid August, others during September, and there are those who do it in the first week of October. Today, Manilva is the district with the largest vineyard in the region, located 97 km away from Málaga, 12 km from Estepona and 30 km from Línea de First, the grapes are cut from the vines, then they are arranged on paseros la Concepción. The vineyards are kept not as a source of economic for sun-drying, and finally they are crushed. After crushing, the moment profitability but as a traditional feature that contributes to the beauty of the comes to prepare must. Today, ancient crushing methods are being landscape. replaced by presses (local people call them molinillos).

31 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Western Coast Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil SOIL AND CLIMATE

The Western Coast runs alongside the Mediterranean Sea. However, its climate is also influenced by the Atlantic Ocean, given the region's proximity to the Strait of Gibraltar. The vineyard extends on moderate-slope hillsides whose feet stand not far from the seacoast. Farmhouse methods are employed in the cultivation of vines in this region. The vineyard benefits from the excellent and singular microclimate featuring a prolonged sunlight daily period. SUMMARY BACKGROUND The soil is whitish, with some sand content due to the region's proximity to the sea. Vines have been cultivated in the Western Coast since time immemorial. The vineyard has always been rich, but it reached its There is climatic stability throughout the year: winters are mild and summers peak in the 17th and 18th centuries. Since then, there have been do not present very high temperatures: perfect conditions for growing better and worse periods, but when muscatel grapes were brought muscatel. The annual average temperature is 18ºC. from Alexandria, vines started flourishing.

Apart from small temperature variations, the region has a rainy climate, with The vines that we see today are quite old; they were planted 40 higher rainfall than in Axarquía, but lower than in Serranía de Ronda. years ago. Since then, no new vines have been planted because, as we mentioned before, housing developments related with the tourist boom resulted in the vineyard being neglected.

Anyway, the region has a good number of wine-growers who normally buy grapes elsewhere in Málaga, for grapes from the region are destined to eat as dessert or to make raisins.

32 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Western Coast Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil AXARQUÍA

Time seems to have stopped many centuries ago in the vineyards of Axarquia, but its towns have progressed and opened up to tourism. The paseros, the popular fiestas of cheerful towns enveloped in sunlight, and the thousand of footpaths are worth spending here a few days and getting to know the region intimately.

We suggest two interesting routes for this region in which, amongst other things, you will get to know three wineries. Each one has its own story but the three are devoted to the same activity: growing and producing DO Málaga and Sierras de Málaga Wines (white, red and rosé) that deserve to be tasted. Relax a few days in this paradise to feel it intensely. 5. tOURIST ROUTES ROUTE ACROSS THE MUSCATEL KINGDOM ITINERARY AXARQUÍA Moclinejo: Bodega Dimobe Almáchar: Museo de la Pasa (Raisin Museum) MOUNTAINS OF MÁLAGA Comares: Atalaya de la Axarquía (Axarquía's vantage point)

NORTHERN REGION From the city of Málaga, we start the journey on the motorway 340 towards Almería, exiting it at the junction for Rincón de la Victoria-Benagalbón. Soon, you SERRANÍA DE RONDA will see a sign indicates a road towards Moclinejo, our first destination, 12 km from Rincón de la Victoria. This picturesque village sits 500 metres above sea level, extending WESTERN COAST over the hillside of the Córdoba and Sierras Blancas hills. Visitors to the town enter under some arches as if the town is wishing them welcome.

33 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Axarquía Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil We recommend that you leave your car at the entrance to the town because After leaving the town and collecting the car, we continue on the road the streets are very narrow and the distances to travel are short. As we walk towards Almáchar, a town devoted to vine-growing since time immemorial. towards the first winery we are going to visit, we will see the Iglesia de The muscatel grape of Almáchar is used to produce Málaga Wine, but it is Nuestra Señora de Gracia (Our Lady of Grace Church), built in the 16th and most well known as a raisin. 17th centuries, with beautiful Arab arches in its bell tower. Moclinejo is a small town, with a population of almost one thousand, where everybody Two kilometres before catching sight of the town, you can stop in a viewing knows each other. The people here are friendly and open, always ready to point on the road and photograph the beautiful panorama of the steep slope help visitors with directions. For this reason, the easiest thing to do is to ask vine cultivation of Axarquía. It will take around ten minutes to arrive at our someone for Dimobe or Muñoz brothers wineries, which certainly, will not be destination. We would opt to leave the vehicle at the entrance as the traffic more than five minutes away. inside is complicated and, most important, the town is worth walking around. There is an ample space with a pretty corner covered with vegetation where Bodega Dimobe produces wines belonging to DO Málaga and DO Sierras passengers wait for the bus in the shade. Of course, it can also be used as de Málaga. This family-run winery, founded in 1927, has recently opened its a meeting point. Once there, it might be worth asking for the Tourist Office, doors to tourism. Not only has it launched new wines into the market, but as the area offers a wide range of attractions to its visitors. also its premises have been completely renewed and they house a wine museum full of freshness, Drying grapes in the sun of Axarquía is a very common practice in Almáchar, with traditional pieces that which is surrounded by paseros that make a unique sight, for they are full of the Munõz brothers, the grapes from 15 August. Almáchar is a lively town, clean and cheerful. Its winery owners, have rescued streets are like the ground on which it sits: steep, with steps and handrails, from neglect. There are full of flowers and dazzling in the sun. A few years ago, the town council some curiosities: the goat started organising a competition at which residents embellish the streets hides, for instance, that were and squares, and it is the town residents who always keep their town ready used to transport wine. Don to be photographed. Quixote "fought" against similar ones in one of the inns he came across on his adventures.

34 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Axarquía Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil On our visit around the town we will see the Parroquia de San Mateo (Saint Mathew's Parish Church). Further on, a typical house, one of the many that stand one attached to the other to keep themselves upright on the steep terrain, is home to the Museo de la Pasa (Raisin Museum). Please, go in.

The Museo de la Pasa shows the ordinary life of vine-growers, their habits and most familiar tools. It is a homage to the hard task passed from fathers to sons that remains unchanged with the passing of time. One of the typical tasks in the area is sun-drying grapes in paseros (exposing them to the sun for a few days). The museum, a typical dwelling of Almáchar, is furnished with authentic pieces, donated by the locals of the area. It is divided into various rooms, like any home, and hanging on the walls are antique Almáchar celebrates its patron fiesta honouring Virgen del Amparo (Virgin of photographs of the sun-drying labour, shared by the whole family. Protection) from 29 to 31 July. The first Saturday of September the Fiesta del Ajoblanco, declared of tourist interest in Andalusia, is celebrated after La Noche de las Candelas (Night of Candles). This day they serve hundreds of litres of one of the typical dishes of Axarquía's gastronomy: ajoblanco. If you come here on these dates, you are welcome to the party. You will have a good time and will feel integrated with the people of the town, who carefully decorate the streets with old farming tools, dolls dressed in traditional clothing, a lot of muscatel grapes and flowers.

If you decide to eat in Almáchar, we recommend that you ask for a good restaurant. The gastronomy of the region combines the best of the Mediterranean meals with the great Málaga Wines. And don't leave without trying ajoblanco (see recipe below), the speciality, which can even be served in a terrine to spread on bread. You should also try the savoury the grapes au liqueur that they offer you with the homemade dessert.

35 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Axarquía Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil After this delightful visit, we ROUTE ACROSS MÁLAGA WINE AROMAS head towards Comares. It is 16 kilometres from ITINERARY Almáchar on a winding Vélez-Málaga: Ucopaxa road, but worth the effort to Torrox get there. Comares sits on a Cómpeta: Bodega Almijara high plain from which you can see much of Axarquía. The main destination of our route is Cómpeta, a vine-growing town par Surrounded by vines and excellence, but we can also take the opportunity to make some interesting paseros, visitors can delight stops in Vélez-Málaga and Torrox. in the magnificent scenery from any of the viewpoints on the road. Once in the town, you will find many Take the motorway N-340 towards Almería either from Málaga, Comares or any monuments, for instance, the Muslim well, declared a historic artistic of the towns of Axarquía you are visiting, and take the 272 exit for Vélez-Málaga. monument in 1931, and the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación (Church of Our Lady of the Incarnation). You could also have lunch in any Vélez-Málaga is a large city with a population of more than 50,000, situated of the restaurants you will find in Almáchar. Read the menu before entering in the centre of Axarquía. The Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor, (Grand Saint in order to make certain that they have DO Málaga or DO Sierras de Málaga Mary's Church), in Mudejar style, converted into a parish church by the wines, which they usually do. Catholic Kings in 1489, the Iglesia de San Juan (Saint John's Church) and Iglesia de San Francisco (Saint Francis's Church) stand out. Upon a hill sits Furthermore, if you like hiking, we would suggest that you spend the night the Ermita de la Virgen de los Remedios (Virgin of Remedies' Chapel). But here, and the following day you can take any of the routes leading to the the district also has three other chapels: Virgen de la Cabeza (Virgin of the farthest corners of Axarquía. In the Town Hall or the Tourist Office they will Head); Ermita de Santa Rosalía (Saint Rosalia's Chapel); and the oldest of inform you with full details. them all, the Ermita de San Sebastián (Saint Sebastian's Chapel).

You will get to know the warmth of Axarquía's people and the delicious Other interesting spots are the Convento de Nuestra Señora de Gracia (Our gastronomy of the area. Those interested in enology will particularly enjoy Lady of Grace's Convent), the Convento de San Francisco (Saint Francis's the Cerro Patarra path, starting in Almáchar. It is a 4 kilometre round trip on Convent) and the Convento de las Carmelitas (Carmelites' Convent), the paths and dirt tracks that lead us deep within a landscape covered with Ermita de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios (Our Lady of Remedies's vineyards. This route takes 3 hours on foot. Chapel). In Vélez-Málaga there is an Arab Fort and a rich cultural heritage including the Palacio de los Marqueses de Beniel (Marquises of Beniel's Palace, Casa de Cervantes (Cervantes's House), the Cruz del Arrabal

36 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Axarquía Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil (Cross of the Arrabal), the Cruz del Cordero (Cross of the Lamb), the Teatro You will certainly get like Torrox, especially because this town is like a shop del Carmen (Del Carmen Theatre) and the Fuente de Fernando VI window for the traditional food of Axarquía. At the promenade or at the (Fountain of Ferdinand VI). Constitución Square you can eat some tapas, always accompanied by a DO Málaga Wine, or any typical dish of Axarquía's rich gastronomy: miga The district has managed to assimilate industrialisation whilst preserving the cortijera, fried squash with garlic and bread, gacha torroxeña (type of oil familiar spirit typical of small towns. cake), ensaladilla arriera (salad made with tomato, onion, orange, cod, olives, olive oil, vinegar and salt) or buñuelos de viento (hollow fritter). The reason for a stop in this town is that, in La Pañoleta-Olivarillo industrial park is Ucopaxa, a co-operative that sells Málaga Raisins and some DO From Torrox, take the regional route that leads up to Cómpeta, 11 kilometres Málaga naturally sweet wines (with their total alcohol content produced by away, where you are going to visit the Bodega Almijara, and of course, a fermentation), perfect for taking back home. If we continue on our journey town full of historical, gastronomic and vinicultural riches. Catch sight of the towards Cómpeta, we take motorway 340 towards Almería once again. town, but before arriving, follow a sign to the left indicating the Almijara winery, descending a few metres until you find it. It is very small, in the style We believe that it might be interesting to make a brief stop in Torrox to get of a farmhouse and surrounded by vines and paseros. It has a shop where, to know a place that has one of the most beautiful beaches on the Costa del in addition to wine made in the winery, there are other products of Axarquía. Sol. If you are spending a few days in Málaga, don't miss out visiting Torrox We recommend that you take home a jar of cane honey to accompany any on this or any other day. Torrox sits on the last hills of the Almijara mountain dessert, together with a DO Málaga Wine. It will make you relive your range, and is famous for the rich agriculture of its meadows, a feature that holidays and meanderings through the wine route of Axarquía. is shared by all the low areas in Axarquía. In any little shop of the town, if you wish, you can buy tomatoes, beans or top quality tropical products, such as avocado, all of them cultivated in this area. We suggest that you make a trip around Torrox, but it is best to park the car and try to walk around. The streets test the fitness of any visitor: although very beautiful, they are steep, with many steps, whitewashed houses, and the sweet aroma of jasmine. Strolling around, you will find the magnificent 18th century Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación (Our Lady of the Incarnation's Church) and the Iglesia de San Roque (Saint Roche's Church). Also worth seeing is the graceful Ermita de la Virgen de las Nieves (Virgin of the Snow's Chapel), built in the 16th century.

37 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Axarquía Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil The wines produced by the Bodega Almijara have achieved recognition in The Iglesia de la Asunción (Church of the Assumption) is easily made out by the specialised press and form part of the wine lists of the most prestigious looking upwards, for it has a 30-metre tower rising high above small white Spanish restaurants. Quality is the winery's "second name", a quality owed houses. The church dates back to 1505, and its construction was ordered to the meticulous selection of the grape and impeccable production process. by Queen Isabella the Catholic. The top of the tower affords extraordinary views. Cómpeta is also home to fauna now scarce in Spain: ibex, martens In the area where the grapes are received and stemmed, it is surprising to and foxes. see the old press that is still used. The fruit is placed in circular cans of synthetic material (before, they were made of esparto grass, which brought The views and the beauty of the place are not all it has to offer, for its an unwanted flavour to the wine), one on top of the other. The pressure is people's kindness is striking, and its gastronomy includes typical products produced bottom-up, with greater or lesser force depending on the wine from Axarquía which are of the highest quality. they are going to make. The ageing area is replete with new French oak barrels. In Cómpeta, there is a high number of good quality restaurants. Make sure that the menu includes DO Málaga or Sierras of Málaga Wines, and enjoy We leave the winery, bidding farewell to the visitors that have come to know a pleasant evening. If possible, don't miss out trying fried aubergines with it as we have, and continue towards Cómpeta, where we arrive in less than cane honey, a delicious appetiser. 5 minutes. This village is very steep, like the other towns we have already visited. The lower part (to the south) is surrounded by terraces and from a In Avenida de la Constitución, there is a restaurant called Museo del Vino, distance visitors will think they are stairs, absolutely necessary to reach the in a beautiful setting, full of barrels and other elements belonging the world town. Cómpeta has a population of more than 12,000. In its streets, be of wine. They serve good Málaga Wines, and you can also buy souvenirs ready to go up and down hills --there is not even a metre that is flat. We will here. easily reach the Almijara Square, where we can park the car and get lost in this extraordinary district. The village, embedded between the Tejeda and This picturesque corner of Axarquía is the last destination of this wine route. Almijara mountains, has been named "Cornisa de la Costa del Sol" (the If you wish to finish the day here and have not made hotel reservations, Cornice of Costa del Sol). there are some hotels and rural houses available. Ask for information at the Tourist Office. You will remember Cómpeta forever. On 15th August, they celebrate the Noche del Vino (Night of Wine), which is the most characteristic of all the festivals organised in this village, and is considered of tourist interest. Grapes are crushed in a traditional press, and wine is the indisputable star of the party.

38 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Rutas turísticas: La Axarquía Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil AXARQUÍA ROUTE ACROSS THE MUSCATEL KINGDOM ROUTE ACROSS MÁLAGA WINE AROMAS

3 Atalaya de La Axarquía (Axarquía's vantage point) 1 Ucopaxa 2 Bodega Almijara

1 COMARES CÓMPETA You should visit La Land of wines such as Tahona, one of the towers muscatel, off-dry and dry of Castillo de Comares wine. It is well known in the (Comares Castle). province and elsewhere in Spain.

2 Museo de la Pasa (Raisin Museum)

TORROX 1 Bodega The Roman remains of Dimobe Faro de Torrox (Roman villa, baths, cemetery) ALMÁCHAR cannot be missed. Parish of Saint Mathew is the monument par excellence of this village.

SYMBOLS VÉLEZ-MÁLAGA Beginning of the route MOCLINEJO The Vélez district is the largest and most End of the route For those who are keen on populated in Axarquía. It includes many Suggested route physical activity, Moclinejo's villages: Torre del Mar, Benajarafe, surroundings offer attractive Triana, Trapiche, Almayate, Cajiz or Suggested route 05 itineraries among hillocks and Chilches, among others. ravines. km.

39 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Axarquía Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil MOUNTAINS OF MÁLAGA Their efforts have developed a peculiar structure in their estates, which In your travel across the large vine-growing region of the Mountains of integrate the vines, the press and the woodland. In other words, the Málaga, you will enter the natural park in whose shelter sprout the vineyards structure represents the perfect marriage of wild and domesticated nature. and where Antigua Casa de Guardia, the oldest winery in the province, This route takes an interesting trip to the heart of the hills, where eternal makes its quality wines. From there, we descend towards the city of Málaga traditions survive, despite the passing of time. to indulge in the cheerful atmosphere of the thousands of taverns, proud of their wine culture. There, the DO Málaga and DO Sierras de Málaga wines From the city of Málaga, in the Fuente Olletas quarter, take the C-345 road play a leading role in the tasting of tapas and raciones (assorted dishes). (known as the road of the hills) towards Colmenar. Although the road has Our journey finishes with a visit to the large wineries for maturing wines many curves, it is wide and has little traffic, with viewpoints from which you located in the city. There, we can drink DO Málaga wines and also Barón de can admire the magnificent countryside below. Passing Fuente la Reina, Rivero, the DO Sierras de Málaga white wine, produced by the López there are signs that lead you to the eco-museum Lagar de Torrijos, our first Hermanos winery. stop, about 30 minutes from Málaga.

ROUTE ACROSS THE LATE RIPENING AREA

ITINERARY El lagar de Torrijos Antigua casa de Guardia Natural Park viewpoints

The grape harvest in the Mountains of Málaga does not take place until the end of September, when the season for harvesting grapes used to make DO Málaga wines in the province ends. This route takes its name (late ripening area) from this fact. The vine-growers of the hills have managed to cultivate vines in an unfriendly environment, where they have to drive themselves too hard to dominate the land.

40 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil The restoration of this estate, one of the many that spatter the hills, revives the lifestyle of a traditional family at the end of the 19th century, when the region was home to more than 7,000 inhabitants (12,000 of which lived in the capital city). Wine-making was at the core of the activities in this country house. Visitors will surely find that the enormous 160-year-old press sitting near the entrance is really amazing. In the same room, there is the press to crush grapes for obtaining the first must (40% of the total), the rest being obtained using the ingenious press with a system of wedges, capable of exerting a force of 12,000 kg, that squeeze out up to the last drop. At that time, cooling systems were not available, and the must was put into large, semi-buried earthenware jars, where it fermented.

Even if the Lagar de Torrijos is open all year round, the best time to go there is in September, when the harvest takes place. Everyone is invited to the We leave the Lagar de Torrijos and head for the winery called Antigua Casa fiesta that celebrates the making of the first must on the third or fourth de Guardia, on the road from Olías to Comares. Founded in 1840, the Saturday of September (depending on when the harvest takes place). If you winery still has the ordinary structure of the vineyard, the press and the hills, stay in Málaga on these dates, we suggest that you should participate in this characteristic of this viticulture area. Before arriving at Olías, a few fiesta, as it is an unforgettable and unique experience. kilometres from the village, the simple but elegant structure of the Antigua Casa de Guardia stands out, so perfect and white that it seems it was built Moreover, from mid October to late November, the eco-museum Lagar de recently, but in fact it is the oldest winery in Málaga. Its founder was José de Torrijos is the departure point for the Ruta de los Lagares (Route of the vine la Guardia, a Spanish gentleman who was close friends with Queen Isabella estates), a guided hike in which an expert explains everything about the II, who appointed him governor of Segovia. It was in 1860 when the estate ancient buildings in the outskirts of Torrijos, the traditions related with the was passed on to the Garijo family, who have worked in it and produced and harvest, the crushing of the grapes, and the flora. commercialised Málaga Wine since then. José Garijo, grandfather to the current owners, was a solicitor who worked for the State. Everything he knew about viticulture was self-taught, and he wrote important studies about Málaga Wine. His knowledge drove him to install the winery in the hills whilst respecting the natural environment. Originally, the estate had only a winery and a place for the labourers to do all the manual work after the harvest. It was not until 1965 that the press was installed.

41 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil ROUTE ALONG THE MÁLAGA OF WINE: MUSEUMS AND TAVERNS

The complex world of the Málaga Wine has left a historical mark that can be found in the taverns, shops and museums of the city of Málaga. On this route, we propose a trip full of flavour and knowledge along a way that will take us to the places where you can get acquainted with the culture of wine.

We start our trip on foot, from the Plaza de la Constitución (Constitución Square) on a sunny morning (in Málaga, mornings are always sunny). Breakfast in any of the cafés that you will find in the area, in Pasaje de Chinitas, Larios street or any adjacent street. Then we head towards Compañía street at the end of the Plaza de la Constitución. An 18th century building with running balconies and a central patio with galleries houses the headquarters of the Sociedad Económica de Amigos del País (Friends of the Country Economic Society).

Most impressive is the marble façade and the large medallion, an In this shrine that shelters criaderas and soleras, one can hear the silence allegory of Montepío de Socorro a and breathe the peaceful air, typical of sacred places. In the very old barrels los Cosecheros del Obispado de matures the wine made in the vineyards of Romerillo and La Letría, the two Málaga (the Benefit Society for the vineyards that stand at the feet of the winery on almost vertical walls. Assistance of the Grape Harvesters Antigua Casa de Guardia has opened its doors to tourists transformed the of the Bishopric of Málaga), a old house into a Wine Museum, which exhibits many interesting objects and charitable society performing an a collection of important documents that the Garijos have been gathering important social role in the city. The over the years. The winery also houses a tasting room and a shop where we relief depicts a scene including can buy wines made in the winery. vines, olives, figs and almonds. The building, raised in 1785, was declared Artistic Architectural Monument in 1932.

42 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil We walk down Compañía street, which leads us straight to Carretería, a We leave the church and return to the Plaza de la Constitución, where we main street in the old quarter. Then we take Biedmas street, the second on take Santa María street, just at the corner where the Café Central stands. the left. A few metres down, the street widens and turns into a small plaza. Next door, we will see the specialised shop selling gastronomic products of Since 2005, the Museo del Vino (Wine Museum) of Málaga is located in the Málaga and the rest of Andalusia, and we can take a look at the many renovated Palacio de Biedmas (a 18th century building). This magnificent brands of Málaga Wine on display in the shop window. At noon the time palace is one of the tourist attractions of the city and reveals the importance comes to enjoy one the most cheerful and authentic Málaga custom: the of Málaga Wine throughout the centuries. Let's go in. The interior is tapeo (eating a small portion of any dish gracefully arranged on a plate), the spacious, and two of its four floors are used for exhibitions. The labels and perfect occasion to accompany our glass of wine. The best moment to taste bottles from the old days on display are very intersting. Information panels these delicious snacks is before lunch, and the best places are the review the history and production of Málaga Wine from the 19th century flavoursome taverns of the city. onwards. The museum is also the headquarters of the Control Board of Designations of Origin.

Our visit to the museum has come to an end, so we return to the small plaza, a welcoming spot, full of charm. Opposite the museum there is a small hotel and, next to it, is the Casa Hermandad de Viñeros (Brotherhood of Wine Growers' House). From its enormous doors that open onto Biedmas Plaza, the Thrones of the Virgin and the Christ of Wine Growers leave for the Maundy Thursday procession. If we look at the end of one of the narrow streets, we can see two remarkable buildings. The one with the blue façade was the birthplace of the poet Salvador González Anaya, and the other is the house of Cánovas del Castillo, the celebrated liberal-conservative politician, born in Málaga in the 19th century.

We return to Carretaría and now take the street on the right, almost opposite Biedmas street. This is Andrés Pérez street, where the Iglesia de las Dominicas (Dominicans's Church) lies, a beautiful temple that looks after the images of the Virgin and the Christ of the Wine Growers. In September, in a liturgical act, the recently harvested grapes and the first must are blessed here.

43 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil A little further on, on Santa María street, we enter Quitapenas. It is small, with a terrace where large casks are used as tables. Inside, our attention is drawn to the huge barrels behind the counter with the names of the wines which they contain: pedro ximén, dorado moscatel, pajarete, etc… and the savoury tapas that are displayed like a fan, on the counter. The waiter explains that the pescaíto frito (deep-fried small fish) and the fritura malagueña (fried food from Málaga) are the most typical dishes. We will surely not be disappointed if we try them. Quitapenas is a chain of taverns spread all over the province of Málaga that always serve wine with Designation of Origin labels.

We walk down Santa María street, and when it crosses Molina Lario street, we can see the Cathedral. We delight in its outstanding majesty, but we will visit it some other time, when we follow another of the numerous routes that the Costa del Sol Tourist Board has drawn up for us. We cross Molina Lario, and a little further on, turn left on to San Agustín street. The façade of the Museo Picasso does not go unnoticed. This museum is the city's recent Our wine route takes us along Císter street, but turns to the right, towards homage to its favourite son. It contains a permanent collection of more than the Aduana Square, where we find the Barril del Místico, which opened its 200 works related to the brilliant Málaga-born painter in love with light. doors in 2000 and is committed to spreading the culture of the Málaga Wine within the framework of a tavern. Here you can choose from the most well Walking down San Agustín street we pass by the Cistersian Abbey of Saint known to the rarest Málaga Wines. Its wine list shows more than 104 types Anne. It houses a very interesting museum of sacred art, and in the abbey of wines made in the Bodega Antigua Casa de Guardia and the other visitors may also buy delicious handmade cakes made by the nuns following wineries registered with the Control Board. Barril del Místico offers wine very old recipes. We retrace our steps towards Santa María street, which boards with choices that can be married with the delicious and varied dishes soon becomes Císter street. In the shop on the corner at the end of the in its menu. It is the perfect place to talk about wine, which it sells by the litre street, La Exquisita, we can be seduced by some gastronomic products of or bottled. Barril del Místico sells articles related with wine that are difficult the area or by some Málaga Wine. In this same corner, at the feet of the to find, like handmade cups, venencias jerezanas (long-handled dipper Alcazaba, there is the bus stop for the Málaga Tour. We can go on this tour used for sampling sherry wines), barrels, etc. One of its rooms functions as at some other moment if we want to take a trip around the most an exhibition room. characteristic places of a city where Romans, Muslims and Christians have left their indelible mark.

44 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil We say goodbye to its owner, José Garijo, and go to the Alameda Principal, ROUTE ALONG CRIADERAS AND SOLERAS OF THE CITY OF MÁLAGA where our route curves round to the Antigua Casa de Guardia tavern, the place to find the most mature of the complex world of Málaga Wine. Many ITINERARY illustrious characters have passed through its doors in its one-hundred-and- Bodega López Hermanos fifty-year history: Gregorio Marañón, Salvador Rueda and Antonio Gala. It Bodegas Gomara retains the 19th-century charm that comes from the time it was founded, in Bodegas Quitapenas 1840. This charm is one of its virtues, as are its wines produced in the Antigua Casa de Guardia winery and its shell fish. Málaga, the capital city of the province, is home to the largest wineries nursing and ageing Málaga Wines. Time and wood are essential for giving We leave the tavern with a good taste in the complexity and structure to wine. Both lie in the silence and seclusion of mouth to continue our route towards El Trujal, an their shrines: the wineries that we will visit on our route. establishment that keeps samples of almost all the wines in the world. It is close to the Mercado López Hermanos settles in an industrial Central de Atarazanas (Shipyard Market), which is park, El Viso, where we arrive by car to in the street behind. El Trujal's owner, Antonio get to know the winery with the largest Jesús Gutiérrez, is in love with the culture of wine. production of the province. He has transformed the premises into a centre of learning and has turned the marriage of wine and This winery, a piece of living history of gastronomy into an art. Go in and check. Málaga Wines, has made quality the strategy by which it has maintained its On leaving El Trujal, we take the street on the right hand position in both national and side and we will find ourselves in the Pasillo de Santa Isabel. Here one finds international markets. Its wines have the Museo de Artes Populares (Popular Arts Museum), which holds a developed along with the taste of permanent exhibition of the work of Málaga wine-makers, as well as many consumers, whilst maintaining other curiosities about the customs and traditions of this land. traditions. Such is the case with its characteristic brands, Málaga Virgen and Cartojal. López Hermanos wines have their own life, a story that is caught We can finish the afternoon taking a stroll down Larios street, the up with the events of each moment. The visit to the winery catches our commercial zone par excellence and one of the most important of the city. interest from the first minute. An old film about Málaga Wine is screened, as The street has been recently remodelled and pedestrianised. Here we come well as a short film from the 1960's that helped Málaga Virgen reach a level to the end of our trip to the city of wine. in the market previously unknown for any other Málaga Wine brand name.

45 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil You may have tasted the wines of this winery before, but after visiting it, you will discover new nuances and you will know more about them. The majority of the wines are aged by the static system, but the fully mature wines (those with more than 5 years ageing) are aged in criaderas and soleras.

We leave López Hermanos, take the motorway 340 to find the road to Cártama and head towards Bodegas Gomara, next to the Technological Park of Andalusia (PTA). The exit is signposted (Universidad, PTA). It takes around 15 minutes to arrive.

The premises of Bodegas Gomara are surrounded by vineyards, bordering the PTA. This winery is a medium-sized production company that has managed, with ingenuity and a good marketing strategy, to make high quality wines and commercialise them in a variety of ways, but always fulfilling consumers' demands.

The winery is continuously visited by a great number of tourists, for whom it has developed a small industry based on home crafted packaging: decorated bottles, barrels etc. In short, the appropriate souvenir from the We leave behind two different methods but one same idea about quality: world of wine. The unrestricted opening up to tourism is one of its strategies that Málaga Wine reach the market with all its potential of colour, aroma and and its premises have been designed bearing this in mind. The winery offers flavour necessary to please consumers' senses. catering services for public and private events, and it has a tasting room and a shop. Visitors will have a good time watching the entire process from the beginning to the end. In one of the winery sections, also open to visitors, handmade barrels and wooden cases are made.

The ageing area stores hundreds of red oak barrels that are used to mature wine with the criaderas and soleras system.

46 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil MOUNTAINS OF MÁLAGA ROUTE ALONG CRIADERAS AND SOLERAS OF THE CITY OF MÁLAGA ROUTE ACROSS THE LATE RIPENING AREA 1 Natural Park viewpoints

2 Lagar de Torrijos

OLÍAS Situated on the Mountains of Málaga and surrounded by almond trees, this village used to produce wine some time ago. 3 Antigua Casa de Guardia

1 Bodegas Gomara

MÁLAGA In the city's historical centre are all the tourist attractions and monuments, except for the historical gardens, which are outside this area. 3 Bodega Quitapenas

SYMBOLS Beginning of the route CÁRTAMA End of the route The urban area is divided into two Suggested route areas: Cártama Pueblo and Cártama Suggested route 2 Bodega López Estación, which are known as Sierra 05 de Cártama. Hermanos km.

47 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil NORTHERN REGION ROUTE ACROSS THE OTHER ANDALUSIAN COUNTRYSIDE In the Northern Region, the vineyard covers an extensive area. Vine cultivation is regarded as a pillar of the regional economy, another one being ITINERARY the cultivation of olive trees. Both, vineyards and olive orchards are the main Cooperativa Virgen de la Oliva (Mollina) features in the landscape of this Andalusian region, whose main district is Centro de Producción Larios P.R. (Mollina) monumental Antequera. Mollina

From Málaga, we take the motorway towards Granada (A-92). When we pass Antequera, we take the exit for Mollina. It has been written that this village is "a place where a warm welcome is inevitable". And, like other places in the area, for many years Mollina has make every effort to foster tourism, creating an important infrastructure of hotels, restaurants, attractions and leisure activities for the thousands of visitors that, attracted by the rich culture and countryside of Antequera, arrive in the Northern Region.

The first stop on our route is the Cooperativa Virgen de la Oliva, which is easy to find when we take the road to Alameda at the entrance to Mollina. Virgen de la Oliva is the heart that sends the wine blood, and the regional roads are like arteries that carry it throughout the region. Three hundred and fifty vine-growers produce 7 million kg of grapes that are transformed into 5 Our wine route takes us to the Cooperativa Virgen de la Oliva, the million litres of wine. production centre for Larios P.R., and to Vistahermosa, an estate where the vines of Inversiones Santa Ana, a López Hermanos' "sister", are cultivated. On the trip around the premises, visitors can deduce that large investments In our trip, we will have the opportunity to enjoy delicious DO Málaga Wines, have been made in technology: bustle and activity turn into calm and silence and, in Mollina, we will also taste good reds of the DO Sierras de Málaga. in the interior of the ageing room, where wines many years old lie, and To sum up, a good excuse to immerse ourselves in some villages full of where noble, añejos (mature) and trasañejos (fully mature) wines, which history and natural beauty, charming places and vineyards that will leave an give prestige and character to Virgen de la Oliva, rest. aftertaste of wisdom in our soul.

48 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Northern Region Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil In our trip around the streets of Mollina, art can be seen everywhere: in the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Oliva (Our Lady of the Olives's Church), a 17th century building; and Villa Ascensión, an 18th century building, both in the Constitución Square.

The wine route network across the Northern Region is wide and extensive; this is why we recommend that you should go to the Tourist Office. The region has infinite possibilities for tourists who want to know the place intimately.

In the outskirts of Mollina is the Roman site: the Capuchin Mausoleum (2nd century) and the Santillán "Castellum" or Castle. Moreover, 4 kilometres to the north of Mollina, is the Sierra de La Camorra. At its highest summit (790 Near the entrance, you will see the winery's museum, a space that m), there is a vertex from which five provinces of Andalusia can be seen: integrates objects of great value with the new concept of modern museums. Cadiz, Córdoba, Granada, Seville and Málaga. Diverse hiking routes In the winery shop, visitors can buy wines and oils made by the cooperative. penetrate the Sierra, an ideal place for those who like exploring caves.

Leaving behind this enormous estate, we head towards central Mollina. In You can also spend an afternoon riding a horse in the beautiful natural Archidona street are the premises of Larios P.R., with the oldest press in the landscape. The Tourist Office will give you all the details you need for your area that produces the base wines for its brand, Málaga Larios, which is excursions. then blended and aged in the premises of the city of Málaga. This winery maintains the most genuine traditions, real gems that coexist with new The villages in the Northern Region keep the mystery of a land of bandits, technological innovations. days of wine and ancient settlements, all of which have left their indelible mark. We suggest that you should spend a night in any of the villages in the After our visit, as we are right in the centre of Mollina, we can have some area, all close to one another and easy to find thanks to the plain on which tapas accompanied with a good Málaga Wine. We can sit and relax in any the region sits. This way, you can follow another wine route the following of the village's restaurants, whose dishes will delight us. There is a wide day. range of tapa bars and almost all of the bars and taverns are located in the same area, close to one another.

49 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Northern Region Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil ROUTE ALONG THE PLANTATIONS BY THE LAGOON

ITINERARY Furthermore, Inversiones Santa Ana is one of the few wineries in which Inversiones Santa Ana (Fuente de Piedra) arrope (grape syrup) is produced. Arrope is a concentrated must that is Fuente de Piedra added to wine in small proportions to give those dark hues, from amber to Antequera black, that make Málaga Wine unique.

We leave the city of Málaga taking the motorway to Granada (A-92), and After visiting Inversiones Santa Ana, we head towards Laguna Salada de when passing Antequera, we take the exit for Mollina. Fuente de Piedra Nature Reserve, a short distance away and one the most charming places in Málaga. Laguna Salada de Fuente de Piedra is the Fuente de Piedra is a village close to Mollina, no more than 10 minutes largest lagoon in Andalusia. Thirty species of aquatic birds nest there, the away. There are many reasons for driving to this spot: the main one being best well- known of them being the flamingo. Summer is the best season to the premises of Inversiones Santa Ana, a subsidiary of López Hermanos watch them, with July and August being the months in which experts ring and one of the symbols of Málaga Wine with Designation of Origin. newly born birds.

The premises are really charming, surrounded by vines. The estate is Fuente de Piedra is named after the famous fountain located in the centre known as Finca Vista Hermosa, in which men and women are working day of the village, whose waters are said to have healing properties. and night, especially during the harvest season, as Vista Hermosa is one of the few plantations in which they also harvest at night. Now we stop at a charming restaurant called Caserío San Benito (on the Córdoba-Málaga road Km. Although the land has allowed for the head-trained cultivation system, the 108) that has more to offer more traditional systems are still used: they pick the grapes by hand and dry than just good food: the them in the sun, among other traditional methods. place has a very welcoming dining room In Inversiones Santa Ana, they only produce base wines: the blending and decorated with objects subsequent ageing take place in López Hermanos, in the city of Málaga. from the 16th and 17th One should not forget the characteristic typical of Málaga Wines: they are centuries and also a complex due to the blending that combines different base wines. Museo de Usos y Costumbres (Museum of Traditions and Customs).

50 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Northern Region Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil It serves the typical dishes of the region. You should not miss the famous monument. You can also see the Consistorial Palace and the Torre del porra antequerana (see recipe in chapter 7) and other dishes made with Homenaje (Homage Tower), the Taurine Museum and the Bullring. Málaga Wine, like the chicken with Mozarab sauce. The restaurant's wine list is enormous, with DO Málaga and Sierras de Málaga wines. The richness of the fertile Antequera meadows is transformed into flavours at the numerous restaurants in the town. We recommend those serving Antonio, the restaurant's owner, collects antiques, which are exhibited at the regional food, which also offer good Málaga and Sierras de Málaga Wines. Museo de Usos y Costumbres, a museum that has been declared of public interest. In spite of being a newly constructed building, it is in line with a If you stay several days and have the opportunity to breakfast here, have a typical Renaissance style, and all the decorative and many of the typical breakfast consisting of mollete (a characteristic type of bread) with architectonic elements bear a historical seal: the entrance door (from the olive oil. 17th century) belonged to the Church of Churriana de la Vega after the Reconquest of Granada by the Catholic Kings; the stone floor is the original 2) Another possibility is to visit noble homes in the town: the City Museum, floor of the Palace of the Marchioness of Fuente de Piedra, the grille comes which was the Palace of Nájera in the past. We also should not miss the from the Convent of Paracenas, and the door of one of the rooms belonged Marquise of la Peña's House; the Marchioness of las Escalonias's; to García Lorca's house. The museum has a bar for tasting wine and other Colarte's, now a museum belonging to the Government of the Province; the regional products, and it also shows travelling exhibitions and has a room Baron of Sabasona's House, the Marquise of Villadarías's and the for conferences or meetings. Serrailler's.

After a peaceful stay, we head towards Antequera. The visit is extensive, so 3) Then, you can visit El Torcal, a beautiful nature spot with interesting we suggest that, if you have little time and are not able to spend the night geological aspects on the landscape and a varied flora and fauna, or the here, you should focus on the rich cultural and artistic heritage of the town. Dolmens of Antequera, Menga, Viera and El Romeral.

We suggest three possible trips: Before leaving the Northern Region, make a stop in Alameda, only 15 1) On walking along the historic centre you will see Colegiata de Santa minutes away, to enjoy the Inn of José Maria, el Tempranillo, by the old road María, the Iglesia de San Sebastián (Saint Sebastian's Church), the Iglesias that linked Granada with Seville. The inn was built in the 18th century, and de San Juan and San Pedro (Saint John and Saint Peter's Churches), the it shows step by step the life of this famous bandit who shares his name with Iglesias del Carmen, Los Remedios (the Remedies), Santiago (James), that of a grape (tempranillo) and who, the story goes, levied a "special tax" Madre de Dios (Mother of God), San José (Saint Joseph), Belén on wines that came from other regions and so "dared" to enter the province (Bethlehem), San Juan de Dios (Saint John of God), San Agustín (Saint of Málaga, the land of Málaga Wine. With this visit, the journey along the Augustine), and the Iglesia Real del Monasterio de San Francisco (the Northern Region will be over. Royal Church of the Monastery of Saint Francis), which is a national

51 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Northern Region Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil THE NORTHERN REGION ROUTE ALONG THE PLANTATIONS BY THE LAGOON ROUTE ACROSS THE OTHER ANDALUSIAN COUNTRYSIDE

2 Centro de Producción Larios P.R.

1 Cooperativa Virgen de la Oliva

FUENTE DE PIEDRA The famous lagoon, Fuente de Piedra, brings ecological value to this village.

MOLLINA The Roman sites are very attractive both for archaeologists and the general public. 1 Inversiones Santa Ana

SYMBOLS Beginning of the route End of the route ANTEQUERA Suggested route The town is full of artistic Suggested route treasures and monuments. All its 05 cultural heritage can be seen in the old quarter. km.

52 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Northern Region Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil SERRANÍA DE RONDA ECOLOGICAL WINE ROUTE

The wine routes of Ronda are very attractive both for the wine expert and ITINERARY he who lacks such knowledge. The former will enjoy wines and visit wineries F. Schatz that he had never tried or seen before. The layperson will most probably Acinipo know more about the world of wine after making this trip. If not, at least they El Chantre will have enjoyed the historic site, the ruins of Acinipo, or they will feel the Ronda freshness of the Convent (now a winery) of Los Descalzos Viejos (Old Discalced Friars), amongst many other beauties and curiosities. The Ronda is one of those places with a life and a style of its own, with a charm different tours and the food of this region will make your stay a memorable so special that makes it one of the most important tourist attractions of experience. Costa del Sol. Now, it is wine tourism that guides us, but first we will admire the historic heritage that this beautiful city offers. All the wines from the Serranía de Ronda are DO Sierras de Málaga red, rosé and white. The vineyards have been planted recently and the majority In a little more than one hour by car from Málaga, straight on the Cártama of the wineries have been producing wine since early this century, save for road (A-357) towards Ardales, and then taking the 367 to Ronda, straight for a few exceptions. the motorwary N-340 towards Marbella and taking the exit for San Pedro de Alcántara, we arrive in Ronda, one of the most elegant towns in Andalusia. The following are some interesting routes that open up to a completely new Our wine routes open up across the hills, where the DO Sierras de Málaga panorama of the other Málaga Wine. was born at the dawn of the 21st century.

Our first destination is the Federico Schatz's winery, located in the Sanguijuela estate, which is located 10 km from Ronda. Take the ring road of Ronda, A-376, towards Jerez - Seville, and 300 metres from Km 114, turn right on to the MA-449 towards Setenil - Ronda La Vieja. After driving 450 m, we meet a dirt road (sign posted: Finca Sanguijuela). Following it down and then up, after 950 metres, we will see the gate on the right-hand side towards the winery. If you have any doubts, ask for Acinipo, which is very close and is a well-known place.

53 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Federico Schatz was one of the first viticulturists to believe in Ronda as a Bidding farewell to this excellent viticulturist, we get to visit Acinipo, the land of wine. Since the 80's he has been cultivating his vineyards and ancient Roman city, intimately tied to the re-birth of Ronda as a wine producing high quality wines. He is a German who has put down roots in producing area. At the entrance of the site, in the area known as Ronda la Ronda and has devoted entirely to viticulture. Vieja, we meet a guard who will let us enter for free. We can park our car at the parking area. We should phone before visiting Sanguijuela, so when we arrive, Federico will be there waiting to show us the work that he has been developing for Acinipo was founded by the Romans, and its name means "Land of Wine". more than 20 years. He still keeps his German accent, but speaks perfect It is one of the oldest and most beautiful settlements of Ronda. During our Spanish and is a chatty person. visit to the ruins, we will see the Roman theatre and some houses. There was a close link between the old city and wine. More than 50 minted coins were found there, with a bunch of grapes on one side, and the legend "Acinipo" and two wheat spikes on the other. A collection including some of these coins is kept in the Palacio de Mondragón, in the city of Ronda, where we will go and see later.

After feeling the spirit of Acinipo and its calm and impressive landscape, we take the road to Ronda La Vieja towards Ronda, and in a few kilometres we will see a road on the right that takes us to Bodega El Chantre. The winery's vineyards cover an entire mountainside and, arriving at the top, where the winery sits, we can enjoy a magnificent sight stretched out before us, crowned by the Sierra de Grazalema. Acinipo lies behind us. The winery's Schatz does respect the environment. His wines are ecological to the core, name may derive from the French word chantre (precentor), meaning he that is to say, all of the cultivation is done without using any chemical who stands in the centre of a fertilisers and afterwards, the wine-making process also follows a natural cathedral's choir… and process. This winery has been the first in Ronda to launch ecological wines indeed here we are in the into the market and it has won many prizes for them. Once in the building centre of a beautiful that houses the winery, Schatz invites visitors to evaluate the organoleptic symphony. properties of some of his wines, and he shows them around the premises. He has maintained some of the rooms of the original building but all around you will see the most up-to-date technology and French oak barrels.

54 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil The structure of this winery is not the conventional one. There is a deep watch your sunglasses, they might fall down. Armiñán street starts at the tunnel 140 metres long that penetrates the mountain. Its architectural other end of the bridge. Following it, we enter the old quarter. Taking a structure is a true attraction for tourists, and so are its wines, which can be glimpse ahead is like travelling to a noble past, replete with heraldic tasted during the visit. arcades, forged wrought-iron gates at the courtyards' fronts, coffered ceilings, doors, Mudejar plasterwork and sober Renaissance palaces. We continue our way towards Ronda on the Ronda la Vieja road. We will get to know one of the oldest and most beautiful towns in Spain, and also its Ronda is a melting pot of cultures that gastronomy. With a population of almost 34,000, and the hundreds of have left behind the rich art and tourists that come here every day, Ronda is a lively and cheerful city. As culture we can now admire. parking is not easy, we have to leave the car in any of the parking areas. Coming out we can see the Iglesia de La Merced (Mercy's Church). In the Taking Tenorio street, we soon we small square there is a convent at whose entrance we can buy the typical arrive at the Palacio de Mondragón, a cakes from Ronda made by the nuns. The rich gastronomic culture of Ronda building owned by the City Council is at every corner, where we will be able to sample and enjoy it. which houses some public offices as well as an interactive museum. There We take the Virgen de la Paz street, which opens on to the Bullring, built in are two distinct areas in this palace in different styles, Mudejar and 1785 and the outstanding spot in Ronda. If you visit Ronda in September, it Renaissance. In one of the rooms, you can see the coins found at Acinipo, is worth knowing that they celebrate a Goyesque bullfight, picturesque and a testimony to the rich culture of vine-growing that the area had in the very popular. remote past.

The city has a rich tradition of arts and crafts in leather, ceramic and bronze We leave the palace and take Manuel Montero street, which leads us that can be bought at many of the shops that we will pass along the way. directly to the Town Hall Plaza. Art lovers can admire the Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor (Grand Saint Mary's Church), with its Mozarabic Ronda has a Parador Nacional, a state-run luxury hotel that sticks out architecture. vertiginously from El Tajo, a tremendous precipice that is one of its main attractions. If we are planning to spend a few days in Ronda, the Parador is Here we finish our first route, but we will continue visiting Ronda again in the a nice place to stay. following suggested routes, as there is still much in this city to see and feel.

We continue our route around this beautiful city and arrive at the popular Puente Nuevo (New Bridge), built in the 18th century to cross El Tajo, a canyon formed by the Guadalevin river. Take a look: it is amazing, and

55 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil THE MARRIAGE ROUTE: ART-WINE AND WINE-TOURISM Just crossing the bridge, we take the dirt road to the left and drive straight on to Cortijo los Aguilares. When compared to the other plantations in the ITINERARY area, we find that this is a very large one. An amazing landscape surrounds Cortijo Los Aguilares the estate, and both are in perfect harmony, as well as the vineyard, the El Baco buildings, some of which are old, while others are new. Its owner, José El Juncal Antonio Itarte, who hails from Donosita, has changed the Cantabrian mists Theodor Conrad for the Mediterranean warm and sun. The place boasts harmony and a Descalzos Viejos refined taste. Itarte has rescued the old farmhouse (cortijo), and raised a Benaoján new building that houses the cellar for ageing wines, the place for Ronda production and his own house. If there is something outstanding in this winery, that is Itarte's choice for decanting wine without the necessity of a The history of wine starts at the beginning of human civilisation, and it has mechanical pump: the must runs by gravity to the barrels where it is accompanied men in many of their activities: art and tourism, for example. fermented, and from there it passes, also by gravity, to the oak barrels to go through the ageing process. On this route we are going to visit an old Trinitarian convent, now revived as a bodega: Descalzos Viejos (Old Discalced Friars). But we start by getting After our visit, we bid farewell and to know the latest expression of modern man customs: tourism. Here, once continue our path towards Ronda. We again, with a particular approach: wine tourism reflected in the Hotel- return to the road and, on reaching a BP Bodega El Juncal****. petrol station, we take the right hand dirt track, known to be one of the few that We will also visit other vineyards and wineries raised by foreigners who takes us to El Baco. This small estate is have trusted in the land of Ronda: Cortijo los Aguilares and Theodor surrounded by the Grazalema hills and Conrad. Our route is finished off with a visit to El Baco, whose owner, Juan the Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park Manuel Betas, was one of the main driving forces of wines from Ronda and it is near Cortes de la Frontera and Serranía de Ronda Natural current trend. Reserves. The plantation lies in the middle of the route across the white villages, in a marvellous environment. We leave Málaga on road A-357, and then we take the road heading to Ardales (A-367), which takes us to Ronda. Five kilometres before arriving in Far from urban centres, the place has the peace and tranquillity wine needs. the city, before crossing the bridge, we take the turn on the left signposted Its owner, Juan Manuel Vetas, is a viticulturist expert, educated in Bordeaux, "Campo de Maniobras Las Navetas". We continue on this road, passing a and well known in the area for his commitment to make the wines from tunnel and then a bridge. Ronda enjoy the prestige they have gained.

56 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil We leave El Baco behind and continue on the road towards Ronda. You can access the winery from the hotel's check-in desk area. Although the winery is not big, it has introduced the most up-to-date technology for Before entering the city, at the first traffic lights, there is a roundabout from making wine. Its first wines were launched in April 2002. During September, which several roads depart. We take the one ahead towards El Burgo. visitors that stay in El Juncal can see the reception and stemming of the Passing the hospital, there is turn that takes us to El Juncal, a hotel-winery grapes after the harvest. We recommend that you make a stop and spend that has made the marriage of wine and tourism a reality. The building also the night in this unique place. houses a tasting room and a laboratory. It is located in a dream spot for wine and tourism lovers, who will certainly want to relax a few days in this hotel We leave El Juncal to continue on the road to El Burgo towards another of which offers various leisure activities. the wineries on the mountains: Theodor Conrad. It is a little further on and its eye-catching strawberry colour is quite striking, which makes it a stopping El Juncal is a small hotel that has 12 suites with the comfort and top quality place for many visitors. Its owner was born in Switzerland, but he has lived service a hotel of this category must offer; besides, its guests are warmly in Málaga since long ago. He is always telling interesting anecdotes of how welcomed. One of the suites is located outside the main building, and it has, he came to know Málaga Wine (the sweet one) when he was a child in thus, an independent access. The hotel's exterior is typical of Andalusian Switzerland. There, as in many European countries, they used to toast with farmhouses, but its interior is completely different, decorated in a modern this wine in Christmas, before the cava and champagne's boom. He ended style along minimalist lines. Outside, there is a garden covering 9,000 m2, up coming here, and rediscovered the warmth that the wines from Málaga surrounded by vines. had brought to his cold homeland many years before.

We leave this extraordinary winery and return towards Ronda. We arrive at the roundabout where previously we had taken the road to El Burgo, but this time, we take the road to Seville, to reach our next destination: Bodega Descalzos Viejos. In roughly half a kilometre, we should be aware of a dirt road going uphill that runs parallel to our road, to the left. In just a hundred metres we arrive at the entrance gate to Descalzos Viejos. We can park the car there.

57 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil The panoramic view from the top of El Tajo (in The day has been passing and left innumerable sensations in our souls. We Ronda) is spectacular, and the views from the leave the Trinitarian convent and return to the road to Seville, A-367, to head bottom of El Tajo, where this winery sits, are towards Benaoján. We take the turning on the left hand side towards this equally breathtaking. The revolution in wine town and enter a county road. In a few kilometres, we stop at a passing making in Ronda has, in a short time, place, where we can admire the exit of La Cueva del Gato (The Cat's Cave). sprouted numerous wineries that offer, in Our route is related to wine, but we cannot miss visiting this cave, in case addition to high quality wines, carefully amongst wine lovers of the world, there are also those who like speleology. designed premises for visitors to enjoy. The Cueva del Gato, by the Guardiaro river, has 4-kilometre long galleries with gorges and waterfalls, and the Gaduares river flows within the cave. Los Descalzos follows this line. This old Trinitarian convent, built at the beginning of After crossing the bridge, we take a turning on the left towards Benaoján the 16th century, was completely renovated to Estación and stop at a heavenly place close to the Molino del Santo hotel- establish the winery. Its owners, architects as restaurant, where a river rises. well as viticulturists, managed to respect the spirit of the old building, returning it to its original aspect whilst introducing the newest architectonic ideas and materials, like the glass skin placed a metre from the exterior wall both for protection and illumination. The production area, equipped with cutting-edge technology, is located in what was originally the church, a building with only one nave in Gothic style.

In the interior of the church, in the presbytery, they have restored the frescos from the 17th and 18th centuries, and some from the 16th century, so that they came back to life relatively well preserved. Nowadays, Descalzos Viejos is a must in wine tourism and represents the perfect marriage between art and wine.

58 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil After a nice moment listening to the babbling of water, we go back to the car Now we cross the bridge that was constructed after the Reconquest, in the to travel to Benaoján, on the same road as before up to this town, 17 km 16th century, to link the Islamic medina, which we have just left, with the away from Ronda. Christian neighbourhood; it is the area of the flea market that is now known as Padre Jesús. There are two main reasons to visit this village: Benaoján basically lives on its rich cold-meat industry, and in fact, if we look at the village from above, There are some small bars in which we can have a Málaga Wine and chat it has the shape of a string of chorizos (sausages). There are shops where a while. We make a stop at the Fuente de Ocho Caños (Fountain with Eight you can buy tasty cold meats and homemade products of the highest Pipes) in the Iglesia del Padre Jesús square, which is the oldest and the quality. The other reason is that here you find the Cueva de la Pileta, a cave only monumental church that has been preserved. declared a Cave Painting National Monument in 1924. the cave will be highly appreciated by those who are interested in archaeology or by anyone Taking the stairs on Escolleras street we reach the Jardines de Cuenca who likes to see traces of ancient civilisations. Within the cave, there are (Gardens of Cuenca), where protected species live, like Spanish fir. There paintings from diverse periods that are unique in Andalusia. For one reason, is a beautiful viewing point from which you can see the other part of the city or the other, or for both, the place is worth a visit. and the final section of the passage where a group of tourists have arrived after descended hundreds of steps. We leave this pretty Andalusian village and go back to Ronda, where there are still many wonderful places we should see. It is late now, and we go back to the bullring. If we have time, we take José Aparicio street, where we can taste another Málaga Wine in any of its bars In the cake shops we can buy yemas del Tajo, a typical cake from Ronda or dine at a good restaurant, where they serve good DO Málaga and DO that we can try when we get back home. Sierras de Málaga wines.

From the plaza runs Espinel (or La Bola) street, leading to the Puente Nuevo (New Bridge). On this trip, as soon as we cross the bridge, we take the turning to the left towards the Cuesta de Santo Domingo to see the old quarter. We can see the mansion known as Rey Moro (Moorish King), the Palacio de Salvatierra (Salvatierra Palace), the Arch of Philip V, and at the end the Wall Ruins that defended Ronda so many times throughout its history, and the Iglesia del Espíritu Santo (Church of the Holy Spirit). From there, the old Arab Baths can be seen, all surrounded by the Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park.

59 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil SERRANÍA DE RONDA ECOLOGICAL WINE ROUTE THE MARRIAGE ROUTE: 1 Bodega de ART-WINE AND WINE-TOURISM Federico Schatz

2 Ruinas de 1 Cortijo Acinipo Los Aguilares ARRIATE The small villages in the province of Málaga, as is 2 Hotel-Bodega the case for Arriate, owe to El Juncal its churches much of its 3 Bodega artistic heritage. El Chantre 3 Bodega Theodor Conrad

4 Bodega Descalzos Viejos

5 BENAOJÁN La Cueva del Gato The church of Nuestra (El Gato cave) Señora del Rosario (Our Lady of Rosary), built in the 17th century and remodelled in the 18th and RONDA 20th century, is a SYMBOLS The Serranía de Ronda has wonderful building. Beginning of the route an extraordinary natural heritage thanks to the End of the route diversity in its ecosystems Suggested route and the impressive Suggested route geological formations. 05 km.

60 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil WESTERN COAST ROUTE ALONG THE GOLDEN REGION The most attractive part of the route is to appeal to your imagination and re- live times when men worked beneath a mild sun that fed their vines and ITINERARY bronzed grape bunches, the sea breezes bringing relief to vines and vine- Ojén: Málaga Wine Museum growers alike. We are going to travel around a viniculture region that was Manilva: Route along vineyards and Castillo de la Duquesa large and rich in the past in relation to wines. However, since the 19th Casares: Baños de la Hedionda century it has suffered economic setbacks and transformations in farming that left wine production in second place. We leave Málaga on the N-340 to Marbella but we can also take the toll motorway A-7. From the Marbella exit (184) the road A-355 takes us to Ojén. On our trip, we will see how tourism boom in the area has displaced the vineyards to small strongholds, the majority of which, with an extraordinary This town houses the Málaga Wine Museum, an important tourist attraction beauty, encircle Manilva. for the thousands of visitors that come here every year.

The Western Coast is proud of its past and does not reject its vineyard It is located in an 18th century building that had previously housed the old vocation, inherited from the Romans. We will go to the Wine Museum in eau-de-vie distillery. Completely restored, it is one of the most extraordinary Ojén and will taste some good traditional Málaga Wines. We will also see architectonic gems of Costa del Sol. art and culture, and we will pass through beautiful vineyards that slowly advance on the hillside until almost touching the sea. Visitors, besides getting to know the old distillery with its old still, can see a collection of old eau-de-vie bottle labels and bottles made in Ojén.

A brief explanation allows us to understand a little better the history of the famous dry, off-dry, sweet, lágrima, and the rest of the wines made from muscatel and pedro ximén varieties, and also to try them. The museum shop sells all the existing types of Málaga Wines.

61 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Western Coast Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Before leaving Manilva we can see the 16th-century Iglesia de Santa Ana (Church of Saint Ann), and if we travel towards the beaches of Sabinillas or the Duquesa Baja, there is the Castillo de la Duquesa (Castle of the Duchess), by the N-340 road, Km. 149. The Castle stands over the place where a Roman villa rose in ancient times, part of whose materials were used in the construction of the castle. Recent excavations have unearthed remains, hot baths and a necropolis. Surrounding the castle is the district of the same name.

The place where the Castillo de la Duquesa rises, also known as the Fortín de Sabinillas (Sabinillas Fortress), has had a long lasting history of coastal surveillance and defence because from this location, one has a wide view of the area, very close to the African coast and the Strait of Gibraltar. Ojén's roots go deep into the Muslim culture, which is apparent in the design of its narrow and steep streets. We can take a walk around the town after We leave the town of Manilva by what is known as "Cuesta del Molino", now our visit to the Wine Museum because, as Ojén is on the mountains but very called Padre Mariano street (signposted). If we look towards the left, we see close to the coast, it has a good number of rivers that cross the district: Real, the hills of Sierra de la Utrera and Hacho de Gaucín. The path narrows as Almazán, Del Tejar and Ojén, together with the Gálvez stream and the we get further away from the town. It is not long before we come across the ravines of Castillo and El Tajo, which are really charming. As for its farmhouse of Padre Mariano, an old building of mellow and unsettling monuments, a large fountain of five jets in the centre of the town and the beauty. Little by little the landscape fills up before our eyes: the end of the church, with a beautiful Mudejar coffered ceiling, stand out. Alcabaleta stream, an abandoned house and some beehives, the peaks of the Matanza mountains, some old winery, the farmhouse of Linares and the We leave this place and continue towards Manilva, the core of the vineyards Sierra Bermeja. Most probably, we will come across a vineyard worker with in the Western Coast. We go along our route to Manilva on foot, feeling the whom to talk for a while. earth and enjoying the beauty of some vineyards that rise up from a golden and whitish soil.

From anywhere in the district of Manilva there are appealing routes to take, but we have chosen one of the prettiest, the one which allows us to enjoy the beauty of this region in Málaga.

62 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Western Coast Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil We continue on our steep path, and on both sides we can see a rich In either case, from here we enter the district of Casares. The path vegetation: almond and fig trees, vines, pitas and wild olive trees. A is much narrower. We pass between the pillars of the motorway and little afterwards, the path curves sharply to the right, following the go on driving. Now we can see big flowering oleanders that cut of a river terrace that indicates that we have arrived to the separate us from the river, and on the other side, a little wood of plains. The vegetation is quite different here: canes, blackberries, eucalyptus and carob trees. If we want to get to know the ferns and some old poplars. We cross the old irrigation canal, magnificent defile of Canuto de la Utrera and Las Mesas, a little passing on our left a beautiful entrance flanked by mimosas and before arriving at the San Adolfo's Chapel, we have to turn off to the bougainvilleas which is the access to an old flour mill, a lovely left. On the rocks lying on the Sierra de la Utrera hillsides sleep, building that has now been remodelled and turned into a house. silent, the memories of past cultures.

When arriving at the crossing of paths by the river, again there are We continue on our path by the chapel and some abandoned old poplar trees. From this place the views are lovely: the Sierra de holiday houses. Our itinerary is drawing to a close. From here, to la Utrera and the Canuto, the narrow but striking defile: it is all calm the right it is possible to see the cupola of "Los Baños de la and silence. On the other bank of the river, continuing on the old Hedionda" (La Hedionda Baths), which was a spa whose origin is path of Casares, we pass "La Bodega" and "Ingenio Chico". La uncertain, for history and legend alike have added to its knowlege. Bodega or "Recreo" is a large construction that gives character to A magnificent place for some relaxation, which keeps some of his the environment. It is located to the right of the path to Casares. We original beauty, rather ruined though. can see its home, still and winery, and on its southern façade there is a high outer limit wall which creates a beautiful terrace with palms and other huge trees: the view is impressive. Besides, El Ingenio Chico (Small Sugar Refinery), a sugar refinery that belonged to the dukes of Arcos, lies on the left of our path, although very little is kept: the remains of some of the walls and the aqueduct for the water that powered the machinery for grinding cane.

Arriving here, we can continue the path towards Casares or divert to the left for the path of Molino towards Hedionda.

63 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Western Coast Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil WESTERN COAST ROUTE ALONG THE GOLDEN REGION

1 Málaga Wine Museum

OJÉN Visiting the old quarter is a must, for its architecture is quite peculiar, its Moorish streets are charming and 3 Baños de la Hedionda (La Hedionda Baths) its viewpoints afford magnificent views.

CASARES It is one of the most beautiful villages in Spain.

2 SYMBOLS Beginning of the route MANILVA The most outstanding End of the route 2 Castillo de la Duquesa (Castle of the Duchess) monument in the district is Suggested route the Castle of the Duchess or Suggested route Fortín de Sabinillas. 05 km.

64 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Western Coast Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil We are about to consider some aspects related to the Málaga Wine culture from the religious to the profane: its relation to the popular culture, gastronomy, health and wisdom, carefully kept in the museums honouring Málaga Wine.

RELIGIOUS CULTURE: HOLY WEEK AND HERMANDAD SACRAMENTAL DE VIÑEROS (WINE-MAKERS SACRAMENTAL BROTHERHOOD)

The Hermandad Sacramental de Viñeros (Wine-makers Sacramental Brotherhood) is among the oldest of its kind in the province of Málaga. Founded in the 17th century, it has been one of the most important tokens of popular culture concerning the world of wine. 6. mÁLAGA WINE CULTURE Wine-makers, apart from being a business trade established by Isabella, the Catholic Queen, in 1502, are part of a brotherhood devoted to Jesus RELIGIOUS CULTURE: of Nazareth. Their saint patron is Saint Lawrence and they also seek the HOLY WEEK AND HERMANDAD SACRAMENTAL Holy Grail -the chalice used by Jesus to drink his wine during the Last DE VIÑEROS (WINE-MAKERS BROTHERHOOD) Supper- for protection.

WINE AND HEALTH The Virgin's Thrones and the Christ of Wine-Makers take the streets of the villages in the province during Holy Week, particularly on Maundy Thursdays. MÁLAGA WINE MUSEUM Both icons can be seen in the Iglesia de las Dominicas (Church of the Dominican Sisters), in Andrés Pérez street, at the heart of the provincial capital. POPULAR FIESTAS The Málaga Holy Week has been declared of Tourist National Interest and is among the GLOSSARY most wonderful to see in the whole country.

65 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine Culture Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil From Holy Monday to Easter, Holy Week procession floats representing Alexander Fleming, during a visit to Andalusia, at the moment when he was scenes of Jesus Christ's Passion and Death are taken into the streets on promoting his most renown scientific achievement, said: "These wines have "thrones" carried by the so-called "Throne Men" on their shoulders. saved more lives than penicillin."

The floats are beautiful, expressive figures wearing clothes richly Luis Pasteur, the founder of modern bacteriology, commented: "Wine is the embroidered with golden threads, sitting on mahogany and embossed silver best and healthiest drink in the world." thrones illuminated by hundreds of candles. The artisans who create the figures are known as imagineros in Spain, a country that has provided the Hippocrates, recognised as "the father of medicine", claimed that "wine is world with many great imaginero masters, Salzillo being one of them. perfectly useful to men, both in health and in sickness, when it is There are many brotherhoods in Málaga. Their "brothers" participate in administered at the appropriate times and in the right quantities according religious processions that symbolise faith, devotion and popular feelings. to the individuals' bodily dimensions." People from Málaga are joined by visitors in these processions so that the streets swarm with people in Holy Week. Plato, the Greek philosopher, stated: "Wine may renew our youth, and through forgetfulness of care, the temper of our souls may lose its hardness This cultural and religious expression to which the Málaga Wine is linked, and become softer and more ductile, as iron does over the flame." brings us close to it along an almost sacred path. Many beneficial effects on health have been attributed to traditional wines from Málaga. Many believed that wine stimulates appetite and help sick WINE AND HEALTH people to get better.

Vine cultivation has walked From the 19th century to mid 20th century, once it was shown that wine was along the history of good for people's health if drunk moderately, laboratories and wineries in civilisations, and so wine has Málaga promoted it among patients, stating that laboratories and prestigious been part of men's life since doctors recommended wine to recover from illness. It was during this period many centuries before the when wineries started to stick labels on Málaga Wine bottles for the Christian Era. As wine and consumer to know what the benefits of drinking wine were. men have lived together for so long, many important men in history have commented on the generosity of wine. We will include some quotations here:

66 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine Culture Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil MÁLAGA WINE MUSEUM

PERMANENT COLLECTION: Labels (1850-1950) The museum's first floor is dedicated to Málaga Wine. It has exhibition rooms and an interpreting centre. The collection fo 19th century labels, donated by Manuel Martínez Molina, and the The Palacio de Biedmas (Biedmas Palace), a Neoclassical building collection of bottles are two historic highlights in the museum. from the 18th century located in the square of the same name, is home to the Málaga Wine Museum. The museum has 800 m2 Labels mirror their time and, in many cases, are the only witnesses distributed in four floors, and it was founded with the aim to share of the mid-19th-century wine-making business that have come down all the accumulated knowledge on wine, a historical and cultural to our days. Many labels were created by such prestigious artists heritage that has been linked to the city of Málaga since its from Málaga as Mowbray, Jiménez Niebla or Bono, which clearly foundation. shows how wine and art are closely related.

The museum's façade is the Palacio de Biedmas's original one, but The period between 1850 and 1950 was lithography's golden age. the building's external sidewalls were built later. In spite of this, the This artistic technique arrived in Málaga only in the second half of whole construction is homogeneous and harmonious. The exterior the 19th century, and it soon became a flourishing activity making a structure is the spitting image of wine's history, whose tradition has leap and landing on the steps of art. been kept as time passed by, leaving its lees and offering its tradition and old age to contemporary wines.

67 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine Culture Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil LABELS: Promoting Málaga as a tourist destination Málaga Wine as healing wine The fact that the first tourism promotions The vast collection of labels (1850-1950), a permanent collection exhibited appeared on wine labels is quite at the museum, is a summary of all the virtues attributed to Málaga Wine. revealing. When reviewing the history of Even if the collection does not reflect a scientific survey, it is a historical set Málaga Wine, we mentioned that Málaga of documents, and a curious one, indeed. was first known as a name for wine, not as a city. This is the reason why the first Among the virtues attributed to Málaga Wine that appear on the labels we promotions of Málaga and Andalusia as can see: it warms, feeds, brings joy, keeps sickness and sorrow away, tourist destinations appeared on wine accompanies cyclists and hunters, alleviates pain, stimulates appetite, labels. sharpens your vision, heals, softens your skin, promotes kindness, purifies thick blood, increases men's strength and vigour, heals women after In fact, there is more than one reason. childbirth, improves business skills, is an effective remedy to treat heart First, the main product exported by palpitation, eliminates bad breath… The labels also read that the bottle Andalusia was wine. Second, there were content has healing effects on sadness, typhus fever, rickets, gastric anonym artists who stamped a special disorders, flu, hysteria, appetite loss, fever, indigestion, dizziness, malaria, seal on labels, a very Spanish one indeed - stomach ache, migraine, anorexia nervosa, war trauma… quite a our beautiful women, our villages and customs. Wine and its labels, comprehensive list! exquisitely artistic, transformed Spain into an exotic tourist destination. People from abroad wanted to see flamenco women and bullfighters in COLLECTION OF WINE BOTTLES person, and also to check if the tablaos flamencos (clubs where flamenco is The rich and vast collection of wine bottles, the majority of which date back performed) really were as they were depicted on the labels. to the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, were donated by wineries and private collectors. Their historical value lies in the Many artists have left their artistic creation on labels, the most prolific being fact that Málaga Wine was one of the few bottled wines at that moment. Fausto Muñoz, Párraga, Berrocal y Gutiérrez.

68 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine Culture Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil INTERACTIVE POSTERS OTHER ACTIVITIES In this area in the museum, you can look at the interactive posters In the Museum's upper floor there is a training area. The museum's staff explaining the different methods to make Málaga Wine and its relation to promote courses in wine tasting, wine and food matching, viticulture and history, literature, music and arts in general. enology, targeted at the following sectors: hotel and catering trade, students and the general public; in short, these courses are aimed at training anyone who is interested in going into the sophisticated world of wine. SENSORY WORKSHOP In the interactive sensory workshop you can feel the different aspects of In sum, the Málaga Wine Museum is a place to show the richness of our wine through your senses. wines, from Málaga to the world.

SHOP In the museum's shop you can buy Málaga Wine, books and accessories related to the world of wine.

69 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine Culture Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil MÁLAGA WINE AND POPULAR FIESTAS MOLLINA (CONORTHERN REGION)

Feria de la Vendimia (Fiesta of the Vine Wine participates in everyday activities and culture of villages in the Harvest): by mid September, Mollina, a province of Málaga. There are numerous fiestas throughout the year which village which spends most of its time in prove that this is so. viticulture all the year round, celebrates a magnificent Fiesta de la Vendimia (Fiesta of MÁLAGA: the Vine Harvest). The harvest is particularly important to vine-growers, for it August Fiesta is the culmination of the efforts made during In the Málaga Fiesta celebrations, Málaga Wine so many months, a moment when they can is one of the main characters, an honour guest, see the land bearing the fruit that men pick in fact. In these days, Málaga triples its through hard work. This is why the harvest population. The city's streets swarm with people is celebrated with great joy. During the wearing polka-dot dresses and dancing Fiesta, visitors can taste wine, watch the sevillanas (popular dance originated in Seville), process of grape crushing and listen to who, together with flamenco clapping, bring joy poems which take wine as their poetic to the city. Casetas (marquees where you can theme and are presented at a poem contest. eat tapas, have lunch or dinner while watching a The history of Mollina is a history of wine days that can be learned by show) are built in the fair premises, which you reviewing the opening speeches of the fiestas celebrated in recent years. can reach by taking route N-340 from Málaga to The following are some examples: Torremolinos. Antonio Gala, who inaugurated the 1990 event, said: "Yours is a stimulating We will transcribe here the words pronounced in the 2000 Fiesta opening wine, generous, with a lovely aroma, sweet and sometimes dry. In other speech by Antonio Garrido Moraga: words, it resembles a kiss. Its colour ranges between the light colour of "Málaga is our wine, the glory of the Mountains, famous the world over, topaz and the darker colour of amber. Your wine serves well people of all mentioned by Shakespeare, a wine that benefited from tax exemption in trades, it is useful to drown our sorrows as well as to highlight our Russia (…). Wine, which has the sun enclosed in the grape it is made from, happiness. I remember it very well, since it was the first wine I drank when the grape in its perfect and infinite circle, an eternal figure which leaves its I was young, and it has never ever brought bitter feelings to my soul." intoxicating flavour forever. Our wine is here to toast honouring the fiesta Juan Cobos Wilkins, the writer who inaugurated the 2003 event, wrote in and bringing joy to everybody's hearts." his own handwriting on one of the vats belonging to the Cooperativa Virgen de la Oliva wine nursery: "Wine is liquid poetry".

70 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine Culture Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil MOUNTAINS OF MÁLAGA CÓMPETA (AXARQUÍA)

Lagar de Torrijos: Fiesta of the Wine Harvest and the first must. The Noche del Vino (Wine's Night) is celebrated on 15 August within the The fiesta is celebrated on a Saturday in late September, depending on context of the Axarquía's Folk Festival. The Fiesta lasts all day long: in the when the harvest is carried out. It is busy day which starts very early in morning, grapes are foot-crushed and then, the more than six thousand the morning. At 6 o'clock in the morning, some bakers start preparing visitors are asked to taste bread with grape and cod. Flamenco singers cateto bread (rustic bread) which is baked before the visitors' eyes. It is provide entertainment and a music show is performed in the evening. usually eaten after soaking it in olive oil. At noon, the grape is crushed in the press by foot and then, the press of Lagar de Torrijos comes back EL BORGE (AXARQUÍA) to life, as active as it used to be in the old days, to make the must that visitors can taste. The Día de la Pasa (Raisins' Day) is celebrated on the third Sunday of Verdiales (traditional singing and dancing from Málaga) are performed September. to the sound of tambourines, guitars, violins, and the big paella for lunch is prepared on burners. The event has not a fixed day every year, this is why you need to phone Lagar de Torrijos or the Consejería de Medio Ambiente (Ministry of Environment): 95 204 11 00.

ATAJATE (RONDA)

The Fiesta of the Must is celebrated on the last Saturday of November. Atajate, a village in the Serranía de Ronda, is the smallest in the province of Málaga, with a population of only 187. During the Fiesta, the population increases four-fold due to the visitors who come over from nearby villages and to tourists visiting Ronda in November. A festival is The village has a population of 1,000, but on the village's fiesta day, more held in the village's square; everybody is invited to taste the musts than 5,000 people come over to enjoy the festivity. They are served wine produced by the different vines, and wine is sold in the streets. and gazpacho (a chilled soup made with chopped tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, onions and herbs). There is also a demonstration of how the vine harvest is gathered: how the baskets are carried to the paseros (sun- drying trays) where they are laid for dehydration. Dance and music pervade the village for the visitors delight.

71 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine Culture Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil GLOSSARY

Aroma: Set of volatile substances that contribute to the complex fragrance Maceration: a technique for producing red wines through contact of the of wine, must or grape. must or wine with grape skins in order to extract colouring, flavour and aromas from them. Grape syrup (arrope): a dark brown syrup obtained by partial dehydration of must through direct heating. Pago: plot of land or estate, especially with vines or olive orchards.

Sun-drying (asoleo): ancient tradition preserved in Málaga consisting in Paseros: farming building used to lay grapes for sun-drying. laying grapes in the sun for dehydration and concentration of sugar. Sun- dried grapes are used in Málaga to make several traditional wines. Overripen grape: grape that has been dehydrated to increase sugar content. It can be obtained on the vine, by delaying the moment of Barrel (bota): vats in which DO Málaga or traditional wine is stored for harvesting, or by sun drying. ageing. Soleras: when ageing wine, it is periodically drawn from the lower barrels Bouquet: aged wine aroma. or soleras which never move, and refreshed with an equal quantity of wine from a criadera or barrel above. The name solera is derived from the fact Blending (ensamblaje): mixing of base wines to make DO Málaga wine. that traditionally the last casks used in this phase are those nearest to the ground (suelo in Spanish). Alcoholic fermentation: transformation of the sugars in the grape must into alcohol, carbon dioxide, and smaller quantities of many other Author wine or exclusive wine: exclusive wine elaborated in a winery at a substances. low total case production.

Malolactic fermentation: transformation of malic acid into lactic acid Base wine: wine that can be used for consumption or to blend and obtain a through the action of certain bacteria. different final wine.

Lágrima Must (literally, tear must): grape juice obtained naturally from bunches without external pressure. It is used to make lágrima wine.

72 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine Culture Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Málaga Wine displays all its potential when combined with food, a notion that we need to understand in order to know what the concept of gastronomic culture means and to enjoy better a human common activity: eating.

Eating is a primary function shared with animals, but men can learn how to enhance the senses involved in eating and drinking (tasting, touching, smelling and seeing) in order to delight in them.

For instance, wine tasters, or sommeliers, will know how to determine the quality of a product and will perceive more features through their senses than a lay person. There are some important factors that affect how we perceive wine and food, such as food and wine matching, the flatware, the glassware and also the people who share the table with us, for eating is a social activity. 7. mÁLAGA WINE AND In sum, the more we train our senses and care about the details, the GASTRONOMY more we will enjoy our food and wine, something that is better appreciated HOW TO DRINK MÁLAGA WINE by those with a certain gastronomic culture. Gastronomic culture can be ranked down up to the animal status, where eating is not aimed at delighting MATCHING MÁLAGA WINE AND FOOD oneself on but only at using it as a means of survival, and is usually done alone and without any flatware or elements of the sort. Maybe we will find it MÁLAGA WINE IN THE KITCHEN difficult to try to explain this to someone who does not care about cultural forms; we could compare it with the attempt to explain a symphony to someone who is SHOPPING GUIDE: hearing impaired. WHERE TO BUY AND WHERE TO DRINK MÁLAGA WINE

PICASSO AND MÁLAGA WINE

73 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine and Gastronomy Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Málaga Wine is made with complex, traditional methods that have been handed down for centuries. In order to get acquainted with this wine, you have to know it, come closer to it and let your senses, namely, seeing, tasting, touching and smelling, receive the corresponding stimuli.

We will provide some advice for visitors who have already arrived in this sophisticated world of wine can enjoy what they have learned once the go back home.

HOW TO DRINK MÁLAGA WINE

When drinking a DO Málaga Wine, you should use a catavinos, a sherry glass that is an elongated glass with a long stem. However, when tasting a DO Sierras de Málaga Wine (white, rosé or red), you should use a standard crystal wineglass. These are the perfect glasses to keep the wines' magical flavour.

Another aspect you should pay attention to is the serving temperature, which varies according to the wine ageing: the younger the wine, the cooler As for the DO Sierras de Málaga dry wine, young white wine is served the serving temperature. at 43 to 46º F. If they have been aged in wood barrels, they are served a bit warmer, at 50 to 53º F. Red young wine is best served in the 53 to Dulce Pálido or sweet Pale wine (young), Málaga (6 to 24 months ageing), 57º F range, whereas aged red wine requires a serving temperature of and Málaga Noble (2 to 3 years ageing) are served at between 50 and 53º 59 to 64º F. F. Málaga Añejo (3 to 5 years ageing) and Málaga Trasañejo or fully mature Málaga (over 5 years ageing) are best served at 57 up to 64º F. When tasting many different wines, it is better to start with the younger wines and drinking the aged wines after.

A nice alternative drink consists of sweet Málaga Wine served with soda on the rocks in a standard soft drink glass.

74 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine and Gastronomy Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil MATCHING MÁLAGA WINE AND FOOD

Matching wine means looking for the perfect liquid - solid pair, that is, DO Sierras de Málaga for a good combination between what you drink and what you eat. For young white wine is the quality wine should match nicely with food, as we already mentioned perfect match for a wide when we discussed gastronomic culture. variety of dishes from Málaga, such as There are some general rules to be followed: wine and food colours ajoblanco (a creamy soup should belong to the same chromatic range. This is why we take white made with almonds, wine with fish and red wine with meat. bread crumb, garlic, olive oil and vinegar), porra We will make a few suggestions on Málaga Wine and how to match it antequerana (similar to with food: ajoblanco with the addition of tomato, ham DO Málaga pale muscatel (young) matches appetisers, foie gras or and boiled eggs), canapés. The contrast between sweet wine and salty food works well boquerones (anchovies in on your palate. vinegar), cachorreña (soup made with bread This wine can also be drunk with desserts that are not too sweet, crumb, orange, and especially light coloured ones, such as fruit crepes, fruit salad, ham and garlic) or Málaga salad melon or milk cream mille feuilles. (potato, cod, onion, orange, olives and olive DO Málaga pedro ximén, aged wine, marries the following desserts: oil). chocolate cake, chocolate crepe, chocolate truffle, blue cheese or goat cheese from the Serranía de Ronda. The following recipes are true Málaga's gastronomic gems, easy to prepare and excellent to accompany Málaga Wine: DO Málaga añejo and trasañejo (with no residual sugar) are made from pedro ximén and muscatel varieties. They are good after-dinner drinks with high alcohol content that can be drunk instead of distilled liqueurs; besides, they are healthier.

75 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine and Gastronomy Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil AJOBLANCO PORRA ANTEQUERANA BOQUERONES MALAGUEÑOS

Ingredients: Ingredients: Ingredients: -150 g (5 oz) raw almonds -1 kg (2 lb) skinned red ripe tomato -1 kg (2 lb) anchovies -3 garlic cloves -1 garlic clover -vinegar -300 g (10 oz) breadcrumb -½ large round loaf -garlic -1 cup olive oil -olive oil -parsley -vinegar, salt -lemon -muscatel grapes -salt -hard-boiled egg Preparation: -cured ham Clean anchovies, cut off head and spine. Soak Preparation: anchovies in vinegar for 12 to 24 hours. Drain Soak breadcrumb and blend together with and put on a tray. Season with finely chopped almonds, oil, vinegar, salt and some water until Preparation: garlic, parsley, lemon juice and olive oil. creamy. Add cold water, chill in the refrigerator or Scoop out tomato seeds. Put them in mixer add some ice cubes. Serve with muscatel together with chopped peppers, garlic, oil lemon grapes. and salt. Mix until creamy. Chill and sparkle some ham and egg finely chopped on top

76 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine and Gastronomy Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil CACHORREÑAS MÁLAGA SALAD (one of the oldest dishes of Málaga cuisine)

Ingredients: -1 tomato -1 pepper -½ onion -½ kg (1 lb) cod (desalted) -1 kg (2 lb) potatoes -cumin, pepper, clove, garlic -soaked bread -olive oil Ingredients: -paprika -1 kg (2 lb) tomato -sour orange (cachorreña) -½ kg (1 lb) cod (desalted) -2 oranges -1 tomato Preparation: -spring onions Cook tomato, onion, pepper and cod in a casserole with water, 10'. Add -olive oil sliced potatoes. Leave until potatoes are tender. Grind cumin, whole pepper, -broken olives clove and garlic in a mortar. Mix tomato, bread, ground species, olive oil and paprika in the blender. Pour the blender content in the casserole and cook for a short while. Serve warm with sour orange (cachorreña) juice. Preparation: Cook cod for 10'. Add sliced potatoes. Cook until tender. Drain off. Place potatoes and flaked cod in a salad bowl. Sprinkle chopped tomato, spring onions, cut orange and olives. Season with olive oil, slat and lemon juice.

77 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine and Gastronomy Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil There are many types of málaga wines, which brings you the possibility of choosing the one you prefer to open or close your meal.

You will find suggest some interesting wine and food pairings below:

Málaga Boquerones (anchovies) with baked peppers can be eaten accompanied with a DO Sierras de Málaga young white wine made from slim-berry muscatel (70%) and chardonnay (30%) grown in the Northern Region.

DO Málaga pale (young), naturally sweet (no alcohol added) single-varietal Muscatel from Alexandria made in Axarqía goes well with foie gras served as an appetiser, and also with a dessert called leche frita (a kind of flan). The colour and texture combination is superb.

Cabbage with black pudding and sausage is perfectly paired with DO Sierras de Málaga young red single-varietal syrah.

Vin de liqueur made from pedro ximén grapes (85%), vino tierno (partially fermented) muscatel and grape syrup (5%) is delicious with fruits.

Dry, fully mature single-varietal (pedro ximén) vin de liqueur tastes beautifully when accompanied by truffles.

78 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine and Gastronomy Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil MÁLAGA WINE IN THE KITCHEN PEARS AU VIN A glass of wine can make you recall all the happy moments you had when travelling around Málaga. We dedicate the recipes that follow to the Ingredients: thousands of visitors coming to Málaga every year. All these dishes are easy -6 skinned pears to prepare and they include Málaga Wine as their main ingredient, and can -150 g (5 oz) sugar be accompanied with the same type of wine used to prepare them. -½ cup Málaga Wine Certainly, a bottle of Málaga Wine is a perfect souvenir to bring back home. -½ cup water

For the cream: MELON AND RAISINS SOUP -¼ cup Málaga Wine Ingredients: -100 g (3.5 oz) icing sugar -2 kg (4 lb) melon -6 yolks -1 cup milk cream -2 cups milk -100 g (3.5 oz) Málaga raisins -1 cup milk cream -salt -1 tablespoon butter -sugar -1 tablespoon vanilla sugar -1 glass pedro ximén wine

Preparation: Put sugar, Málaga Wine, water and pears in a casserole over the flame. Cook until pears are tender.

Preparation: To prepare the cream, mix all the ingredients in a casserole. Cook for 7', Cut melon in two halves, scoop out the meat. Soak raisins in wine. Chop stirring continuously. Pour cream on a serving dish and place pears in a fan melon. Add milk cream. Sprinkle salt and sugar. Mash the mix. shape on it.

79 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine and Gastronomy Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil BORRACHUELOS DE MÁLAGA (BRANDY PASTRY) ROSCOS DE VINO DE MÁLAGA (MÁLAGA'S DOUGHNUTS)

Ingredients: Ingredients: -1,250 kg (2.8 lb) flour -1 kg (2 lb) lard -90 g (3 oz) sugar -300 g (0.7 lb) sugar -1 teaspoon sesame seeds -1 cup sweet Málaga Wine -1 teaspoon fennel seeds -500 g (1 lb) praline -2 cups brandy -sesame seeds -1 ½ cups Málaga Wine -toasted almonds and hazelnuts -1 cup olive oil -2 kg (4 lb) plain flour -200 g (0.5 lb) self raising flour

Preparation: Knead flour and the other ingredients until dough is soft (add wine and Preparation: brandy if necessary). Knead flour and the other ingredients until dough is compact.

Leave at room temperature for a few minutes. Prepare small balls 15 or 20 Make small balls 15 or 20 g (0.4 to 0.5 oz) each. Prepare rings. Bake in g (0.4 to 0.5 oz) each. Extend with a rolling pin to make strips 12 cm long preheated oven 160ºC (290ºF) until done. and 3 mm thick, leaving the ends somewhat thicker. Leave until cold. Sprinkle with icing sugar Put some sweet pumpkin filling on the strips and roll, joining the ends. Deep fry in hot oil.

Sprinkle with sugar or honey dissolved in water.

80 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine and Gastronomy Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil SHOPPING GUIDE: PICASSO AND MÁLAGA WINE WHERE TO BUY AND WHERE TO DRINK MÁLAGA WINE We could not close this DO Málaga Wine can be purchased at wine shops, department stores, bars, chapter on gastronomic restaurants and wineries that sprinkle the wine routes in Málaga. culture without mentioning the Málaga-born genius Málaga Wine has always had its bad copies which will be of lower quality Pablo Picasso. He and will fail to please your taste buds. Whenever you order a Málaga Wine considered Málaga Wine at a restaurant, check it is bottled, for all DO Málaga Wines come in bottles as an element that linked with labels providing precise information. However, taverns along wine him closely to his routes may offer wine they store in barrels. homeland, despite his living far from it. When Some people refer to some other drinks as Málaga Wine, but this is just a Málaga celebrated the misleading term to refer to them, for the drink they refer to is a very sweet opening of the Picasso Museum in 2003, Málaga Wine was present at the aromatic muscatel juice which has nothing to do with the true DO Málaga toast. Wine. Among Picasso's memories, there is a letter (published in Buena Mesa The places recommended in the wine routes' section offer the Málaga Wine magazine, a publication for gourmets) where we can read about the that is worth tasting. gastronomic secrets of this painter in love with light, the most universal of the artists born in Málaga. The following passage is an excerpt from this letter, which shows Picasso's deep feelings for Spanish culture and, particularly, for Andalusian perfumes and colours. Quitapenas, a type of Málaga Wine is also mentioned in it.

You know, we never speak in Spanish at home, but when we came back from Spain, some friends of us, smelling of jasmine and citrus fragrance, brought some delights with them: a Quitapenas, ham, chorizo, del Mono anisette, Málaga raisins… We learned some words full of aroma, of flavour…

81 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Málaga Wine and Gastronomy Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Out of the 5,000 ha vineyards in the province of Málaga, 1,200 produce the grapes that are used to make the wines classified as DO Málaga and DO Sierras de Málaga. All of them are supervised by the Control Board, whose aim is to check quality and promote the image of Málaga Wines.

The first case of a control board for both Designations was included in the 1502 Royal Bond sealed by the Catholic Kings, acknowledging the prerogatives of the wine-growers of Málaga, and which constituted the first regulations for the Málaga Wine. The current Control Board was created in 1933.

Recent Changes in the Control Board's Regulations The most recent revolution in the Málaga's vinicultural sector started to 8. tHE CONTROL BOARD FOR develop in the 1980's when new varieties were cultivated that gave rise to the birth of the DO Sierras de Málaga in 2001, in which dry wines are DESIGNATIONS OF ORIGIN included: quality red, rosé and white wines. The wines made from grapes MÁLAGA AND SIERRAS DE cultivated in Ronda come under the Serranía de Ronda subdesignation. So now, the DO Málaga, with its traditionally liqueur and naturally sweet MÁLAGA wines, is no longer the only DO in the province.

The regulations of the Control Board were modified in 2001, allowing wine to be aged in the area of production, and not only in the district of Málaga, as had been required previously. This meant more flexibility, so some wine producers have moved their establishments to the interior of the province, closer to the vineyards.

82 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Control Board Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil DO MÁLAGA AND DO SIERRAS DE MÁLAGA

The Málaga Designation of Origin includes liqueur wines with alcohol levels from 15 to 20% vol. and the naturally sweet wines over 13% vol., produced from overripe grapes and whose alcohol comes exclusively from fermentation.

The Designation of Origin Sierras de Málaga includes white, rosé and red wines with alcohol level lower than 15% volume.

ACCEPTED GRAPE VARIETIES

The varieties accepted by the Control Board for Málaga and Sierras de Málaga Designations of Origin are:

Pedro ximén: It is the most widespread variety, and its annual production totals nearly 5 million kilos. This variety is also known by other names that have evolved from the original: pero ximén or pedro jiménez. The areas of production are the Northern Region and the Mountains.

Pedro ximén is a variety of Vitis vinifera. Its trunk is vigorous with upright thick and branchy shoots. Its leaves are small and the bunches are Second, the Moorish muscatel, that of a slim berry, which grows mainly in numerous. The grape is meaty, small and very sweet, covered by a thin skin. the Northern Region. From this variety strongly perfumed wine is produced. There are also other varieties appropriate for wines under the status of DO Muscatel: The cultivation of this variety gives an annual production of Málaga: lairen, doradilla and rome. 1,500,000 kg. There are various types of muscatel. First, the muscatel of Alexandria, also called muscatel of Málaga, which predominates in the For the production of DO Sierras de Málaga wines, in addition to the Western Coast, the Mountains and Axarquía. Remarkable for its aromatic traditional grapes used to make DO Málaga wines, the following varieties qualities, it can be used either for making wine, to eat as a dessert or for are used: chardonnay, macabeo, sauvignon blanc and colombard (light- making raisins. skinned grapes) and rome, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, tempranillo, garnacha, cabernet franc, pinot noir and petit verdot (dark-skinned grapes).

83 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Control Board Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil 9. wINERIES AND WINE TASTING

WINERIES FROM AXARQUÍA

WINERIES FROM THE MOUNTAINS OF MÁLAGA

WINERIES FROM THE NORTHERN REGION

WINERIES FROM THE SERRANÍA DE RONDA

84 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries and Wine Tasting Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil WINERIES FROM AXARQUÍA

BODEGA DIMOBE S.L.

Address: Ctra. de Almáchar, s/n Moclinejo (Málaga) Phone: 952 400 594 Fax: 952 400 743 Owners: Muñoz Family Production volume: 50,000 l

GRAPES: Summary background Light-skinned varieties: Muscatel This winery is located in the urban area of Moclinejo. It was founded in 1927 Purchased Grape: Yes by the current owners' grandfather.

The vineyard Related information The winery has 8,000 vines in its own vienyard, bordering Almáchar, and Next to the producing area there is a Wine Museum, with singular items on some paseros nearby the winery. The firm purchases grapes from many display. It also has a shop where visitors can buy bottles of the brands estates in Axarquía because it has traditionally been a wine producer traded by the winery winery.

The winery WINES: Dimobe is in full blossom, launching new brands into the market and caring DO Sierras de Málaga Brands: about the facilities' updating. Apart from providing it with cutting-edge El Lagar de Cabrera, young white technology, in line with modern wineries, its owners are focusing on wine DO Málaga Brands: tourism, and have renewed its external looking for this reason. Inside the Señorío de los Broches, pale winery, whose walls feature such traditional materials as exposed bricks and Zumbral and Valmoclin wood, visitors will see a huge press 800 kg in weight that had been abandoned in a vineyard in the Mountains.

85 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from Axarquía Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil BODEGA ALMIJARA

Address: Ctra. de Canillas de Albaida, s/n Summary background 29754 Cómpeta (Málaga) The rich and complex history of this winery has had its up and downs, in line Phone. 952 553 285 with the historical events that marked the 20th century. In the 80's, after Owners: José Avila several attempts, José Avila decided to focus again on wine production. Production volume: 25,000 l bottled wine After a lot of hard work in the winery, and just by chance, Jorge Ordóñez, a Málaga-born gastronomy expert residing in Boston, visited the winery and found one of its wines excellent. Ordóñez then returned accompanied by Telmo Rodiguez, a winery owner from La Rioja, who quickly realises that in that remote village of Axarquía he had just discovered a milestone in the world of wine. José Avila and Telmo agreed upon making good wine, GRAPES: whatever the cost was, and thus established a partnership. Following this Light-skinned varieties: Muscatel philosophy, Bodega Almijara discarded several harvests before launching its Purchased Grape: Yes, to local vine growers four star brands with the quality it was seeking since its foundation.

The vineyard Related information Grapes are selected by José Avila himself from different vineyards, since There is a shop to purchase wine and other products from the Axarquía muscatel vines are not always the same even if they grow in the same region. vineyard. They vary depending on the height, the sun light or shade, etc. Grape selection adds complexity to the wine WINES: The winery DO Sierras de Málaga Brands: Wines produced in Almijara are author wines. All four brands produced in Jarel, dry young white this winery have something unique, as explained below. Here, everything in DO Málaga Brands: the production process is made with great care. Cutting-edge cold pressing Jarel, naturally sweet; Molino Real; and MR (Cía. de Vinos Telmo technology is used with a very old press to obtain the must. Rodríguez)

86 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from Axarquía Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil fichas BODEGA ALMIJARA files

Molino Real DO. Sierras de Málaga

Variety: Muscatel. Ageing: In oak barrels. Characteristics: This is a yema (Spanish word, literally "yolk", for the first portion of must obtained through a straining process without the pulp being subjected to any mechanical pressure), almost lágrima wine, which means that the grape pressing is very gentle. A novel method has been introduced to make this wine, trying to recreate the wine produced before, but caring for its quality with the use of new technologies and letting it age for some time. Tradition lies in the selection of grapes from very old vines, between 100 and 150 years old, grafted after the phylloxera infection. Then, the asepsis involved throughout the elaboration process allows the aroma and limpidity to linger in the mouth and ensures the production of a flawless wine. Marriage: Molino Real marriage is very wide, and is still open to further possibilities. This wine is recommended for foie, blue cheese, modern cuisine, magret.

Jarel seco DO. Sierras de Málaga Jarel and MR. DO Málaga

Variety: Muscatel. The two naturally sweet wines of Bodegas Almijara are Jarel and MR, Ageing: Young. produced with an ensamble of grapes exposed to the sun. No Characteristics: This wine was the first dry muscatel wine produced in naturally sweet wines are produced (adding alcohol to stop Málaga. The 2000 vintage was the first one. This is a young wine that fermentation). These are tasty, citrus wines that offer freshness to the keeps the typical aroma of muscatel. palate. Marriage: Fish and seafood.

87 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from Axarquía Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil WINERIES FROM THE MOUNTAINS OF MÁLAGA The winery After stemming and crushing the grapes, the must is put in underground ANTIGUA CASA DE GUARDIA containers. Then it is transferred to stainless steel deposits for controlled fermentation. Ageing takes place in red oak barrels for a period of 10 to 15 Address: Ctra. Olías-Comares s/n. Finca El years. The reason for this is that wines in this area do not require so much Romerillo (Bda. De Olías). 29197 Málaga wood, and the barrels are used mainly as containers where the wine is Phone: 952 030 714 y 679 752 718 gradually and slowly oxidised. Ageing is carried out through the static aging Fax: 952 252 150 system, and wine remains for 6 to 24 month in the barrels. For more mature E-mail: [email protected] wines, the system of criaderas and soleras is used. In this way, the quality Owners: Garijo Family of the product launched into the market is always the same. Production volume: 5,000 l bottled wine and 40,000 l for distributing in taverns in the city of Summary background Málaga Antigua Casa de Guardia was founded in 1840, but the premises as they stand today are from 1965, when the current owners' grandfather acquired Romerillo and Letría, two very old vineyards that had survived the fateful GRAPES: phylloxera that arrived in the late 19th century. Then he planted new vines Variedades: Pedro ximén, muscatel, sauvignon blanc and with native varieties: pedro ximén and muscatel. chardonnay (light-skinned grapes); cabernet-sauvignon and syrah (dark-skinned grapes) Related information Purchased Grape: Yes The former labour house now hosts a Wine Museum. The winery has a shop where wines produced there can be bought. The vineyard The production in Romerillo and Letría, the two vineyards belonging to Antigua Casa de Guardia, totals 10,000 kg. Letría covers 6 ha and is 30 WINES: years old. Some parts of the terrain are vertical, with slopes over 80%. DO Málaga Brands: Romerillo has an area of 7 ha and the slope is not as steep as Letría's. Málaga moscatel; Pajarete 1908; Pedro Ximén 1908; Dulce Garijo; In 2003, one hectare was seeded with other varieties: cabernet sauvignon Moscatel Guinda; Isabel II; Verdiales Seco; Verdiales Cream. and syrah (dark-skinned grapes), and sauvignon blanc and chardonnay DO Sierras de Málaga Brands: (light-skinned grapes). A portion of the muscatel and pedro ximén vines are No head trained, thanks to the construction of specific plots. The remainder is heroic or steep slope cultivation, that is, grapes are picked by hand, and are transported to the premises on beasts of burden. 88 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from the Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil fichasMoscatel Málaga. DO Málaga ANTIGUA CASA DE GUARDIA files

Varieties: 75% big-berry muscatel or Alexandria muscatel, and 25% pedro ximén. Alcohol: 16º vol. Aging: Noble. Tasting: This is a dark amber-coloured wine, with an intense golden tone, transparent. It has a wide intensity, and it is harmonious and persistent in the nose, with aroma of fine wood and raisins. It is velvety in the nose, with a great balance between sweetness and a fine acidity. It feels good in the mouth. Persistent. Marriage: This wine perfectly matches pasta and chocolate desserts. Serving temperature, between 16°C and 18°C. Pajarete 1908. DO Málaga

Origin: Olías. Pedro Ximén 1908. DO Málaga Varieties: 100% pedro ximén. Alcohol: 16º vol. Origin: Olías. Aging: Fully mature. Varieties: 100% pedro ximén. Tasting: This is a dark amber-coloured wine, transparent. It has an Alcohol: 16º vol. intense bouquet with aromas of dried figs and prunes. It is velvety and Ageing: Fully mature. smooth in the mouth, balanced. The flavour of raisins re-emerges at the Tasting: This wine is dark amber and transparent. It has an intense retronasal passage. bouquet with the aroma of fine wood and raisins. It has a smooth Marriage: The combination of quince jelly and goat cheese with aftertaste. Pajarete 1908 is perfect. Serving temperature, between 16°C and 18°C. Marriage: Pedro Ximén 1908 perfectly matches blue cheese and foie. Serving temperature, between 16°C and 18°C.

89 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from the Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil BODEGAS QUITAPENAS

Address: Ctra. Guadalmar nº 12, polígono Summary background Industrial Villarosa. 29004 Málaga The current owners' grandfather -an expert wine producer- went bankrupt Phone: 952 347 595 when the phylloxera came to the region. He settled in Málaga and opened Fax: 952 105 138 a restaurant in El Palo. With his good mood and experience, soon he started E-mail: [email protected] producing wine from grapes grown in the Mountains. In 1880 he founded the Owners: Suárez Family winery, which nowadays is one of the emblematic companies in El Palo. Production volume: 60,000 l Before having its current name, the winery was called Hijos de José Suárez y Villalba.

Related information GRAPES: This winery was awarded the gold medal for the 10-year-old fully mature Varieties: Muscatel and pedro ximén Viejo Abuelo in the 2002 International Wine Fair. It was the first winery to Purchased Grape: Yes, all of it open its doors to visitors during the 1960's tourist boom, thus occupying a niche in the tours offered by tourist agencies. The vineyard This winery makes wine but it does not own any vineyard. The winery has a wide variety of wines and other typical products from the Málaga region for sale: raisins, dried figs and olive oil. The winery Bodegas Quitapenas produces Málaga Wines from the following varieties: muscatel from Axarquía, and pedro ximén from the WINES: Northern Region. The premises to produce the wine are located in DO Málaga Brands: the Northern Region, and then the wine is aged in Bodega El Palo Moscatel Dorado, Moscatel Málaga, Málaga Oro Viejo, through the criaderas and soleras dynamic system. This winery Málaga Dulce, Viejo Abuelo and Lagrima Christi produces young, pale wines, traditional Málaga Wines, and quality DO Sierras de Málaga Brands: Vegasol mature wines.

90 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from the Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil BODEGA LÓPEZ HERMANOS

Address: Canadá, 10 -Polígono El Viso Summary background 29006 Málaga The current owners are Salvador López López's grandsons. Salvador and Phone: 952 319 454 / Fax: 952 359819 his brother Francisco were the founders of this winery, closely linked to the E-mail: [email protected] Málaga Wine history. Owners: Rafael and Juan Ignacio de Burgos López Investment on the premises and smart marketing strategies have led the Production volume: 3,5 million l per year company to the highest production and trading levels since the 60's.

Related information Visitors can buy all the wines produced in the winery. GRAPES: Varieties: Pedro ximén and muscatel (light-skinned grapes) and syrah (dark-skinned grapes). Purchased Grape: Yes. WINES: DO Málaga Brands: The vineyard Málaga Virgen, Cartojal, Moscatel Iberia, Tres Leones, Sol de The vineyard consists of 500 hectares belonging to Finca Vista Hermosa, Málaga, Trajinero, Chorrera, Pedro Ximén Reserva de Familia, located in Fuente de Piedra (the Northern Region). Moscatel Reserva de Familia; and fully mature wines: Seco Trasañejo, Don Salvador Moscatel and Don Juan Pero Ximén The winery López Hermanos is a symbol in the Designation of Origin. The winery DO Sierras de Málaga Brands: receives the base wines that have been made in Inversiones Santa Ana, a Barón de Rivero subsidiary company located in Fuente de Piedra (in the Northern Region). Once in the Málaga premises, wines are blended and enter the maturing and ageing processes. This winery was founded in 1885 and has been passed through generations, growing steadily but not losing the familiar atmosphere that has been its characteristic feature since it was born.

91 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from the Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil fichas files Málaga Virgen. DO Málaga BODEGA LÓPEZ HERMANOS

Varieties: Pedro ximén (with different degrees of exposure to the sun). Alcohol: 17% vol. Ageing: Two years in oak barrels. Tasting: It is golden, transparent. It is strong, with a long, elegant sweetness in the end. Expressive in aromas and ageing tones, in which pedro ximén can be tasted. Marriage: Chocolate desserts.

Cartojal. DO Málaga Barón de Rivero. DO Sierras de Málaga Cartojal. DO Málaga Varieties: Muscatel. Varieties: Moorish muscatel (85%) and chardonnay (15%) Alcohol: 14.5% vol. Alcohol: 12.5% vol. Ageing: Pale. Ageing: Young. Tasting: This muscatel wine is attractive, yellow coloured, with slight Tasting: This is a pale yellowish white wine, translucent, with greenish greenish tones, transparent. It has floral aromas, with a pinch of honey shades. It has the aroma of flowers and dried fruits, very intense, light, and citrus. The flavour of raisins as well as a slight smoked hint can be silky, balanced, with a long aftertaste. tasted. Elegant and sweet, not sickly sweet though, it features balance Marriage: Fish. and harmony. Marriage: Ideal for accompanying appetisers, or main courses, such as foie or seafood.

92 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from the Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil BODEGA LARIOS PERNOD RICARD This company is also known for its brandies and spirits. Ageing of wines and spirits is made through two processes: the static and the dynamic systems. Address: Polígono Guadalhorce, César Vallejo, The former is used to mature wines, which remain for 3 or 4 months in new 24. 29004 Málaga barrels, and then they are transferred to the old barrels, where they Phone: 952 247 056 complete the maturing process. Fax: 952 240 382 E-mail: [email protected] Brandies and spirits are matured through the dynamic process, also known Owners: Larios Pernod Ricard S.A. as the criaderas and soleras process. The casks used are previously wined Production volume: 200,000 l, bottled. 700,000 l with Málaga Wines that provide their quality and a remarkable, unique DO Málaga for export, which then the different character. importing companies name with their own brands. Summary background The origin of this winery dates back to 1875. The volume of Málaga Wines made here is rather reduced as compared to other products produced by GRAPES: this company, but the owners still want to produce the traditional wines that Varieties: Pedro ximén were once the driving force of their business. Purchased Grape: Yes, all of it Related information The vineyard The Manager of the Production Centre in Málaga is Antonio Santana. Visits This winery does not own any vineyards. It purchases grapes to vine- to this winery must be booked in advance. growers from the Northern Region; however, it controls the vines until the harvest is over. There is a shop where all the products elaborated by PR Larios can be bought. The winery Larios PR, in the city of Málaga, is a maturing, ageing and bottling winery. It receives the grapes and makes the blending in Mollina, in a winery that has WINES: a capacity for storing 3 million kg of grapes, and there the pressing, DO Málaga Brands: Málaga Larios fermentation and typification processes take place. The cellar in Málaga has DO Sierras de Málaga Brands: No 2,000 red oak barrels 500 l each, used for the ageing process. The majority of its production is exported to countries in the European Union.

93 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from the Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil fichas files Málaga Larios. DO Málaga BODEGA LARIOS PERNOD RICARD

Varieties: Pedro ximén (90%), Málaga muscatel exposed to the sun (10%). Alcohol: 17% vol. Ageing: Noble (2 years in red oak barrels through the ageing- by-year system). Tasting: Golden mahogany in colour. Aromas of ageing, with hints of sun-exposed grapes, liquorice, toffee candy, dried fruit. Tasty, silky, coffee sensations, balanced and with a long and elegant aftertaste. Marriage: Millefeuille and not too sweet desserts. Other features: Málaga Larios is produced by blending two base wines: naturally sweet pedro ximén wine (85%), vino tierno muscatel (10%) and grape syrup (5%).

94 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from the Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil BODEGAS GOMARA

Address: Diseminado Maqueda Alto Summary background nº 59. Apd. 121 Bodegas Gomara is a family-run business aimed at producing and ageing 29590 Campanillas, Málaga wines. In 2003, it started its own vineyard when moving its premises close Phone: 952 434 195 to the Andalusia Technological Park. Fax: 952 626 312 E-mail: [email protected] Gomara has been growing steadily, especially pushed by exports, and has Owners: García Family cemented business relations with Japan, Canada, Italy, France, the Czech Production volume: 300,000 l Republic and Slovenia.

Related information If Bodegas Gomara has an outstanding feature, that is innovation. In 1994 it was the first ever to develop the souvenir concept applied to quality wines. This is the reason why this winery has developed a small industry to make GRAPES: barrels and to decorate bottles with paintings and leatherwork. Varieties: Pedro ximén and muscatel Purchased Grape: Yes, but to a lesser extent, since the winery has The winery is oriented to tourism. Visitors can buy all types of wines there. started cultivating its own vines. It also has a tasting room and some meeting rooms as well. Manager: José Manuel García López

The vineyard: The vineyard covers an area of 60,000 m2, on which production and ageing WINES: are integrated. DO Málaga Brands: Málaga Dulce, Moscatel Málaga, Pedro Ximén, Lacrimae The winery Christie, Málaga Cream, Pajarete, Fino Seco, Seco Añejo, Gran This winery is equipped with state-of-the-art technology for producing DO Gomara, Málaga Trasañejo. Málaga Wines. Ageing takes place trough the criaderas and soleras DO Sierras de Málaga Brands: process. This winery was the first in launching fully mature wines into the No market.

95 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from the Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil fichas files Sweet Málaga. DO Málaga BODEGAS GOMARA

Varieties: 90% pedro ximén and 10% muscatel. Alcohol: 15º vol. Ageing: 12 months in red oak barrels. Tasting: Dark-amber coloured, this wine has aromas of cocoa and roast coffee, it is sweet, transparent, with vanilla notes. It combines the intensity of pedro ximén and the fragrance of muscatel, which provide this wine a delicious and light taste. This wine stimulates appetite, it is invigorating and relaxing. Marriage: Chocolate desserts.

Moscatel Málaga Pedro Ximén

Varieties: 100% Alexandria muscatel. Varieties: 100% pedro ximén. Alcohol: 15º vol. Alcohol: 15º vol. Ageing: This wine is matured for 12 months in red oak barrels. Ageing: Three years in red oak barrels. Tasting: Golden amber-coloured, this wine has a strong aroma of mature Tasting: Mahoney coloured, this wine of toasted aromas of vanilla and muscatel; it is sweet, fresh and tasty. When tasting it, pay attention to the dried fruit is balanced, complex and persistent. At that ageing stage, the aroma of pure muscatel, then enjoy the taste left by its smooth taste. owners of the winery have succeeded in balancing the characteristic of Marriage: Cream millefeuille, profiteroles and candies. a young pedro ximén with the first steps of ageing. Outstanding features are its smoothness and aroma, still fresh, with notes of solera and the vanilla flavour, typical of oak. Marriage: Chocolate desserts.

96 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from the Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil BODEGAS LOPEZ MADRID

Address: Ctra. de Campanillas, km. 7,5 29196 El Tarajal (Málaga) Phone: 952 433 189 Fax: 952 437 647 E-mail: [email protected] Owners: Family-run company Production volume: 40,000 l

GRAPES: Summary background Varieties: Muscatel and pedro ximén López Madrid founded this winery in 1946, in the Málaga quarter called Uva comprada: Yes Cerrado de Calderón, and at the very beginning he traded his wines by the litre. The winery moved to its current location in 1975, when a bottling The vineyard assembling line was installed. Its products are commercialised in the Part of the grapes come from the vineyard in Zalea. domestic market.

The winery Related information López Madrid is a winery that produces and matures Málaga sweet and dry The CEO of this winery is Pedro López. Visits must be booked in advance. wines. Ageing is carried out through the criaderas and soleras system, because of the reliability and homogeneity secured by this method through WINES: the years. Besides, this is one of the few wineries equipped with the DO Málaga Brands: technology required to produce grape syrup, a product that López Madrid Maestro, Málaga del Abuelo, Pedro Ximén, Soliviña, Son de Mar, supplies to other wineries in the province. Viña Pescaíto, Zar. DO Sierras de Málaga Brands: No

97 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from the Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil fichas files Maestro BODEGAS LOPEZ MADRID

Varieties: 100% Alexandria muscatel. Alcohol: 15º vol. Ageing: Pale. Awards: Silver medal in the 2002 International Wine Fair. Tasting: Pale yellow-coloured, translucent, with green shades, this wine has an intense aroma of fruits (apple and banana) and flowers, characteristic of this variety. It tastes balanced, fresh and light. Persistent. Marriage: Ideal with appetisers, accompanying a foie or seafood.

Málaga del Abuelo Soliviña

Varieties: 70% pedro ximén and 30% muscatel. Varieties: 100% muscatel. Alcohol: 15º vol. Alcohol: 15º vol. Ageing: Matured in 30-year-old soleras. Tasting: Yellow coloured with golden tones. Lively intense fruity aroma, Tasting: Mahogany coloured with golden shades. Intense aroma, characteristic of this variety. Balanced, it resembles raisins. caramel, toasted. Strong, tasty, ample, balanced and persistent. Marriage: Desserts and candies. Marriage: Desserts and candies.

98 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from the Mountains of Málaga Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil WINERIES FROM THE NORTHERN REGION

BODEGAS LÓPEZ GARCIA

Address: C/ Sevilla nº 27, 1º C 29009 Málaga Phone: 952 306 593 Fax: 952 306 593 E-mail: [email protected]

The winery Summary background López García winery buys DO Málaga pedro ximén and muscatel wines. Bodegas López García, founded in 1954, is a traditional winery whose These wines are aged in red oak barrels and then different types of sweet, owners and their forefathers have been always linked to the world of off-dry, cream and dry wines are produced and commercialised. Málaga Wine.

Related information Wines made in this winery are top quality ones because their production volume is not too big.

99 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from the Northern Region Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil INVERSIONES SANTA ANA

The winery Address: Finca Vista Hermosa Inversiones Santa Ana produces base wines (naturally sweet, tierno and Fuente de Piedra (Málaga) maestro), which are finally mixed and aged in the López Hermanos maturing Phone: 952 111 681 cellar in the city of Málaga. After its renovation, the winery introduced high- Fax: 952 111 447 end technology to produce wines in all its sections: stainless steel deposits, Propietario: Filial de López Hermanos cooling equipment to control the temperature throughout the fermentation Production volume: 3.5 million l process, new technologies to clean the must before entering the fermentation process, and new crushing systems (press and pumps). The objective of all these novelties is to make top quality wines.

GRAPES: This is one of the few wineries with an area for making grape syrup. Purchased Grape: Yes, to local vine-growers Light-skinned varieties: Muscatel and pedro ximén Summary background Dark-skinned grape varieties: No López Hermanos runs this winery since the company bought it in 1989, when it first focused on growing vines on their own vineyard. The vineyard Vista Hermosa has 500 ha of land where extensive vine growing has Related information become a handmade work throughout the whole process: winter pruning, This winery does not trade wine brand names of its own, for its wines are green pruning, harvesting and exposition to the sun. those aged and blended by López Hermanos.

Vine harvesting is still hand-made, in spite of the fact that since the vineyard has been adapted for head trained cultivation, harvesting could have been mechanised. Harvesting has been effectively improved, preventing a lot of grape from rotting on the floor. Afterwards, a meticulous selection is made for wine-producing purposes, and then, the selected grape is transported either to the paseros or to the press.

100 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from the Northern Region Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil SOCIEDAD COOPERATIVA AGRÍCOLA "VIRGEN DE LA OLIVA" Summary background Virgen de la Oliva was founded in 1977 as a cooperative for vine-growers Address: Avda. de las Américas, s/n from the district of Mollina. Nowadays, wine making is just one of the six 29532 Mollina (Málaga) activities carried out by the cooperative. The remaining five include: making Phone: 952 740 100 of olive oil, dressings (olives as pickles), granting loans, supplying farming Fax: 952 741 090 implements, and providing other services. E-mail: [email protected] Owners: Cooperativa The cooperative policy is to gradually increase production of bottled quality CEO: Francisco Campaña wine of the DOs Málaga and Sierras de Málaga, which nowadays account Production volume: 5 million l for 20% of the business.

LA Related information The focus on tourism in the Northern Region of the province of Málaga GRAPES: opened a new business opportunity for the cooperative some years ago, Purchased Grape: Yes, to its cooperative members when it opened a shop and a Wine-Winery Museum for the tourists visiting Light-skinned varieties: Muscatel, pedro ximén, doradilla the cooperative. Dark-skinned grape varieties: Syrah The marketer Tierras de Mollina, created by Virgen de la Oliva cooperative, The vineyard launched the first young wines of the new DO Sierras de Málaga: Gadea The grape comes from the vineyards belonging to 350 vine-growers, (red) and Montespejo (white) in 2003. These well structured wines have members of the cooperative who supply approximately 7 million kg grapes been considered as excellent in specialised publications. Besides, fully (more or less, depending on each year's harvest). mature Carpe Diem trasañejo was awarded the gold medal in the "DO still wines" category, in Vinitalia, an International Wine Fair held in Verona. The winery Virgen de la Oliva produces wine since it was founded, and in 2003 the WINES: ageing cellar moved from the city of Málaga to Mollina. Grape selection is Montespejo, young white, DO Sierras de Málaga rigorous and is carried out upon reception, when the sugar content is Carpe Diem, naturally sweet, DO Málaga assessed, and the pH and acidity are controlled. After the assays, the grape Carpe Diem, fully mature, DO Málaga is sent to the hopper for bottled quality wine or to other two for the Carpe Diem, mature Málaga, DO Málaga production of wine to sell by the litre or of sulphur-added must, for which Gadea, young red, DO Sierras de Málaga only pedro ximén grape is used. Montelobo, noble dry white wine, DO Málaga

101 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from the Northern Region Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil fichas files Montespejo. DO Sierras de Málaga "VIRGEN DE LA OLIVA"

Varieties: Produced with yema must from carefully grown native vines doradilla and muscatel. Alcohol: 11% vol. Produced by: Virgen de la Oliva Cooperative. Ageing: Young. Marketed by: Tierras de Mollina. Tasting: Montespejo is a pale, translucent yellow young wine. With muscatel fragrance, transparent and intense, elegant with exotic notes, tasty and persistent. Marriage: Fish and seafood; ideal for other dishes with fish, vegetables, vegetable stews, soft and fresh cheeses. Serving temperature: chilling. Carpe Diem Trasañejo. DO Málaga

Varieties: Sweet wine made from overripe pedro ximén and Gadea. DO Sierras de Málaga muscatel grapes. Alcohol: 15% vol. Varieties: Syrah, single-varietal wine. Ageing: Over five years in red oak barrels. Alcohol: 13.5% vol. Tasting: This wine is black coloured with red and golden shades Ageing: Young. resulting from its very long maturing period in oak barrels. It has the Tasting: Intense purple-red. Fine fragrance, transparent, with aroma of characteristic scent of raisins, developed together with the other ripen red fruit and characteristic smell of violets. Meaty, with great bouquet components of this wine: candied fruit, coffee, cinnamon, structure due to its sweet and ripen tannins, which make this wine chocolate and plum. Dense, tasty and profound, with a long, smooth surprisingly velvety with a nice aftertaste sensation. aftertaste. Marriage: Appetisers, and dishes with meat and cheese. Marriage: Chocolate desserts. Serving temperature 16 - 17°C.

102 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from the Northern Region Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil LARIOS P.R.

Then they are blended to produce the traditional Málaga Larios wine, to Address: C/ Archidona, nº 1 which 5% of grape syrup is also added. Once the base wines come together 29532 Mollina (Málaga) into an ensemble, the wine is taken to the premises the winery owns in the Phone/fax: 952 740 251 city of Málaga, where it is matured for two years through the static system. E-mail: [email protected] Owners: Larios P.R Summary background Enologist: Enrique Carballás The P.R. Larios production centre in Mollina is the oldest winery in The Production volume: 200,000 l bottled Northern Region. It dates back to 1875. 700,000 l for export of DO Málaga wine that afterwards is named with the brand names of the Related information different importing companies Traditionally, Larios has produced in Molina liqueur wines for export.

WINES: GRAPES: Brand: Málaga Larios DO Málaga Purchased Grape: Yes, all of it. Light-skinned varieties: Pedro ximén and muscatel. Málaga Larios. DO Málaga The vineyard The company does not own any vineyards, but it has a close relation with Varieties: Pedro ximén (85%), Málaga muscatel (10%) and grape syrup the vine-growers who supply the fruit, so the grape is controlled directly in (5%). the vines. The winery's enologist decides the best time for picking the fruit, Alcohol: 17% vol. as well as when exposition to the sun must begin and for how long. Ageing: Noble (two years in oak barrels). Tasting: Light-mahogany with golden shades. Tertiary aromas The winery (developed during the ageing process), with notes of sun-exposed This winery purchases pedro ximén grapes from nearby vine-growers, and grapes, liquorice, toffee candy, nuts. Tasty, silky, with coffee sensations, muscatel from Axarquía and Manilva. With these grapes, the winery balanced and with a long and elegant aftertaste. produces two base wines: naturally sweet with overripe pedro ximén Marriage: It makes a perfect pair with chocolate desserts and is great grapes, and muscatel tierno, with grapes exposed to the sun. for drinking after lunch.

103 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from the Northern Region Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil WINERIES FROM SERRANÍA DE RONDA These features, however, bring about some advantages, since the clayey BODEGAS Y VIÑEDOS EL CHANTRE soil keeps moisture and the rock prevents water evaporation. The high density of the vineyard (4,700 vines per hectare) is perfect for selecting Address: Bodegas y Viñedos El Chantre S.L. grapes of the highest quality. Apartado de Correos 380. 29400 Ronda (Málaga) Phone: 670 851 480 / 7236 The winery Fax: 954 181 818 This newly built winery is a symbol of architectural talent. Located in the E-mail: elchantre@telefónica.net vineyard itself, it penetrates 140 m through tunnels in the mountain. The Owners: José Manuel Ramos Paúl and Pilar production and maturing sections are inside. At the back, in the heart of the Martínez mountain, there is the shrine where wines of highest quality are kept. 35% Production volume: about 200,000 kg grapes a out of the total production consists in young wine, 60% in mature, and the year. In good years, 500,000 kg, DO Sierras de remaining 15% in vintage wine. Málaga, bottled Surrounding the winery is a big garden looking on the impressive vineyard and the Serranía de Ronda, crowned by Grazalema. GRAPES: Varieties: Tempranillo, syrah, cabernet-sauvignon and merlot Summary background (dark-skinned grapes) The first wine produced by this winery was launched in 2003. It was a Purchased Grape: No symbolic production of less than 1,000 bottles of a wine that was not traded but was highly praised. The construction of the winery ended in 2004. The vineyard El Chantre's geographical location is a privileged one for vine growing. Related information Its 25 ha go up to 1,000 m above sea level, facing the Sierra de Grazalema El Chantre has a tasting room and meeting rooms. It has been declared "of from the Roman ruins of Acinipo. The vineyard welcomes the cool Atlantic public and social interest" and is open to visitors. wind, and features the highest rainfall in Ronda and a nice temperature difference between day and night. WINES: DO Sierra de Málaga: Ramos-Paul El Chantre is one of the biggest estates in the area. The head trained DO Málaga: No cultivation is made manually. The steep slope and the rocky ground do not allow for mechanisation.

104 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil FINCA DOÑA FELISA

Address: Cª Alquejigal km. 2,5 Ronda (Málaga) Phone: 606 945 936 Owners: José María Losantos Production volume: 40,000 l

GRAPES: Varieties: Cabernet-sauvignon and tempranillo All the vineyard's production is used to make high quality bottled wine. (dark-skinned grapes) Purchased Grape: No The winery This winery has a production area equipped with a cooling system and an The vineyard underground maturing cellar with oak barrels. It also has a tasting room. Doña Felisa is a 5.5-ha family-owned property where vines occupy 4.3 ha. It is 700 m above sea level, sheltered by the Sierra de Grazalema, and is Summary background densely planted (5,000 vines per hectare). The small production of one kilo Doña Felisa is located in a place that resembles other areas of the west of per plant allows the owners to make a good selection and thus make high Spain, since it is surrounded by cork oaks, holm oaks and olive trees, and quality wine. cattle and pigs are bred in the place. Vines were planted for the first time in the year 2000. The maturing cellar Vines are head trained, and the ground allows for mechanisation. The loamy was opened in 2004. sand soil features the adequate drain and goes 1 m into the earth. There is clay below, which helps retain moisture. WINES: (Not available in the market) DO Sierras de Málaga: Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 At the end of each aisle, there is a rose plant. This is a custom originated in southern France. Not only does it add beauty to the plantation but it also alerts vine-growers if there is a pest, for it will infect the rose plant first.

105 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil BODEGA LOS DESCALZOS VIEJOS Summary background Address: Partido de los Molinos del Tajo. Ronda Five centuries after it was first built, the Trinitarian convent of Nuestra Señora de (Málaga) los Remedios (Our Lady of Remedies), known as Descalzos Viejos (Old Phone: 952 874 696 Discalced Friars), was remodelled keeping the original style. The Trinitarian Owners: Francisco Retamero and Flavio Salesi monks founded the convent in 1505, thanks to a chart granted by Joanna the Production volume anual: 50,000 l Mad, already imprisoned in Tordesillas. The monks lived there for more than 80 years, until 1596, when there was a reformation of the religious order. Then they decided to move to Ronda, to the Iglesia de Santa Cecilia (Saint Cecil's Church), GRAPES: and the convent was abandoned. Those who did not accept the reformation were Varieties: Cabernet-sauvignon, syrah, merlot, petit verdot converted to Descalzos (Discalced) and went through all kinds of difficulties on and garnacha (dark-skinnned grapes) their way back to the convent, which they could only reach in 1608. They Purchased Grape: No remained there until 1664. Many of the eldest monks remained there due to the region's good climate. This is the story that explains the name Descalzos Viejos The vineyard (Old Discalced Friars). The Descalzos Viejos vineyard spreads over 5.75 ha within a 15 ha The monks' cells and gardens still stand there, built in terraces and protected by property. The most surprising feature is the microclimate: an area where the a huge rock. The scent of lemon and orange and the murmur of water make Tajo de Ronda is not so vertical. Vines are protected from the northern wind walking around the gardens a delightful experience. and have a favourable sun exposure, so the climate is good for vine Nowadays, wine matures in Bodega Descalzos Viejos in the same quietness and growing. From the vineyard, visitors can enjoy a fantastic view of Ronda peace as Trinitarian monks sought for their spiritual life. crowning the Tajo, and at its feet, the Guadalevín -a movie-like landscape with its steep, undulating terrain. Related information The vineyard is densely cultivated, with 4,500 vines per hectare, and Visitors can also enjoy the beautiful mural paintings in the winery and the old harvesting is carried out ecologically. Rainfall volume is perfect for vine convent. growing, and there is a spring coming down the mountain. WINES: (Not available in the market) The winery DO Sierras de Málaga: TAn old convent, Los Descalzos Viejos, was renovated and now it houses the Coupage Cabernet-sauvignon, syrah and garnacha 2002 winery, specifically at the place where the church was. It has a cellar for ageing Monovarietal Cabernet-sauvignon, young single-varietal garnacha wine and a tasting room in the first floor. The pressing room and the bottling plant wine are located outside. The whole production is used to make high quality bottled wine. 106 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil HOTEL-BODEGA EL JUNCAL

Address: Ctra. Ronda, El Burgo, km 1 Summary background 29400 Ronda (Málaga) The owner belongs to the tourism business. El Tragabuches and El Phone: 952 161 170. Escudero are his other two estates in Ronda. Ramón María López Fax: 952 161 160 endeavoured in this hotel-winery development, for he has always believed E-mail: [email protected] that the marriage between wine and tourism is very promising. The number Owner: Manuel María López Domínguez. of professionals who have visited the winery confirm he is right. Production volume: 6,000 bottles. The first vintage, 2002, was launched in April 2003 Related information The Andalusian estate, surrounded by the woodland and vineyard, was opened as a 4-star hotel in 2002. This peculiar hotel combines a trendy minimalist style and the most genuine tradition of Andalusian country GRAPES: estates, surrounded by meadows and attached to a winery. This blending of Varieties: Cabernet-sauvignon, syrah, cabernet-franc, petit verdot, styles is amazingly perfect. garnacha and merlot (dark-skinned grapes) Purchased Grape: No The hotel 12 suites (one of them with an entrance independent from the main building), a 9,000 m2 garden, jetted tubs, golf court, swimming pool, The vineyard and many recreational activities ranging from archery, canoeing in the The estate covers 100 ha, 10 out of which are used for vine growing, the Zahara de la Sierra marsh and other sports to wine-tasting lessons. The third widest vineyard in Ronda. It has a privileged location, surrounded by a reception of grapes during the harvesting days is a spectacle that makes natural reserve that has been declared Biosphere Reserve. visitors come back once and again.

The winery The winery is integrated into the hotel structure, and they both form a typical WINES: Andalusian country estate. The cellar at El Juncal has the characteristic DO Sierras de Málaga: El Juncal bull's eye and a singular wooden roof. It has been equipped with high-end technology, particularly in the stainless steel deposits and cooling systems. The tasting room is located in the upper floor.

107 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil LA SANGUIJUELA

Address: Finca La Sanguijuela. Aptdo de correos 131. 29400 Ronda (Málaga) Production per vine is quite limited: between 1 and 1.5 kg per plant, Phone: 952 871 313 according to the variety and the weather, which ensures an optimum Fax: 952 161 825 balance between foliar mass, number of berries and quality. This low yield E-mail: [email protected] is achieved through laborious manpower. Protection of vines against pests Owners: Federico Schatz and diseases is done by means of ecological products. Production volume: 15,000 bottles a year Some outstanding details: the scent of aromatic plants, the roses planted at the end of each line of vines, and the solar panes used to supply clean electric power. GRAPES: Dark-skinned varieties 70%: Merlot, lemberger, petit-verdot, The winery pinot-noir, tempranillo, syrah and cabernet-sauvignon After the harvest, which is done manually, grapes are quickly transported on Light-skinned varieties 25%: Riesling, chardonnay 20-kg capacity boxes to the winery, where crushing and alcoholic Rosé varieties 5%: Muskattrollinger fermentation of the three varieties -white, rosé and red- are carried out. Once the alcoholic fermentation is over, a second fermentation, malolactic The vineyard this time, is carried out (unusual in white and rosé wines). In some cases, La Sanguijuela is located on a plateau 600 m above sea level, between this second kind of fermentation is done in barrels, resulting in softer wines, Sierra de Grazalema y Sierra de las Nieves. These hills protect the vineyard since the strong malic acid is naturally transformed into weaker lactic acid. from strong winds and guarantee a yearly rainfall of 500 l. The microclimate of the area features warm days and cool nights, ideal for wine production. Ageing takes place in new French oak barrels. Thus, wines are balanced, The soil is deep, with a silty-sandy, clayloam texture. with mature tannins and weak acidity. They are famous for keeping primary aromas and fruit aromas characteristic of each variety. Ageing in new High quality ecologic wine production begins in the vineyard itself. Vines are barrels makes wine last longer: white and rosé wines can be kept for 10 to head-trained in 1 by 2 by 2.3 m espaliers. To provide the soil with nutrients, 15 years, while red wines, for 15 to 25. The last stage includes ageing in legumes are planted in the aisles (broad beans, clovers, peas, etc.). bottles. Besides, grape stems, the branches that are pruned and marc are returned to the soil.

108 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil LA SANGUIJUELA fichas

Summary background Federico Schatz is son to a family that used to grow vines in southern Germany. After assessing the different wine-producing areas in the Mediterranean region, he settled in Ronda in 1982, since he believed this Chardonnay 2001. DO Sierras de Málaga area had the best soil and climate for vine cultivation. He started with experimental plantations of riesling, chardonnay, Trollinger, Spätburgunder Variety: 100% chardonnay. (or pinot-noir), Lemberger and tempranillo. It took Schatz some time before Alcohol: 14.5% vol. he could make a living out of wine, so he lived on selling the plant flowers Ageing: Four months in new French oak (Nevers) barrels sur lie with he grew in his property. batonnage (over grape lees); then eight months in stainless steel containers, and finally, twelve months in bottles. This is the first ecologic winery in Málaga, which, given the difficulties in the Tasting: Straw-like coloured, this wine has a wide fruity aroma, with growing, production and marketing, is a worthy achievement. A convinced many complex notes where smoked hints blend with exotic fruit. It has ecologist, Federico Schazt believes that many important things can be done light scents of apple, citrus, and herbs: subtropical fruits (papaya, regarding ecologic agriculture. mango, lichi and pineapple). It tastes fatty, tannins are very well covered with alcohol (glycerine), it is very tasty, warm, earthy, salty, slightly sour, Related information and very mineral. Visits to La Sanguijuela must be booked in advance. His owner and author Marriage: Seafood of its wines likes to fully explain their qualities through a tasting session that takes over one hour. There is a shop where all the wines produced in the winery can be acquired.

WINES: D.O Sierras de Málaga: F.Schatz

109 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil fichasPinot Noir 2001. DO Sierras de Málaga LA SANGUIJUELA files

Variety: 100% Pinot Noir. Alcohol: 14.5% vol. Ageing: Four months in stainless steel containers. Twelve months in new barrels (80% French oak, Allier, Troncais, and 20% red oak) (sur lie with batonnage). Nine months in bottles. Tasting: Cherry-coloured, this wine is very fruity, fine and complex. Ripen blackberries, plum. It has a leather note, spicy (pepper, vanilla) and a touch of fennel, somewhat flowery (violets). There is a mix of vigour and fruitiness in the mouth; it dry, fleshy, rounded, ample, well balanced, with light chocolate and coffee toasty notes, and sweet and mature tannins. The aftertaste is elegant, very aromatic, mineral and Petit Verdot 2001. DO Sierras de Málaga persistent. Marriage: Game meat. Variety: 100% Petit Verdot. Alcohol: 14% vol. Ageing: Three months in stainless steel containers. Twelve months in new barrels (80% French oak, Allier, Troncais, and 20% red oak) over its fine lees (sur lie with batonnage). Nine months in bottle. Tasting: Dark-cherry colour with a violet tint. It has a very intense aroma of blackberries, strongly herbaceous (eucalypt, mint, fennel) and somewhat flowery (violet and jasmine). Its body is full, creamy, tasty (sweet fruit), potent, full of very ripen tannins. Quite oaky, with a mineral hint, slightly bitter, with toast elements (cedar wood, cigar box), spicy (vanilla, liquorice). Marriage: Red meat and stews.

110 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil CORTIJO LOS AGUILARES the must deposits, by gravity, in the stainless steel deposits. Temperature is continuously controlled. Once wine has fermented, it is sent to the ageing Address: Ctra. Ronda-Campillo cellar (decantation also takes place by gravity), placed just below, where it Puente de la Ventilla starts its rest and ageing period. Ronda (Málaga) Phone: 952 855 561 To maintain optimal temperature in the ageing cellar, the roof is covered with Owner: José Antonio Itarte water (following the Arab tradition to freshen rooms), looking like a Production volume: 80,000 l a year beautifully lit pond.

Summary background José Antonio Itarte is a businessman from Donostia who has changed the GRAPES: melancholic beauty of San Sebastián's mists for the bright sun of southern Varieties: Pinot noir, tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon, merlot Spain. Eager to devote himself to the world of wine, when he put his days and petit verdot in the industrial sector to an end, he had to choose between a vineyard in Purchased Grape: No La Rioja and the challenge of a newly born wine-land: Ronda.

The vineyard The climate, the favourable results obtained in the Ronda's soil assays, the Three vineyards occupying a total of 17 ha produce grapes for this winery, possibility to produce more wine varieties than in La Rioja, and the strength which uses head-trained cultivation. A watering system has been installed to of tourism linked with commercialisation made him decide to settle in prevent plants from suffering hydric stress. Vines were planted in 2001, and Serranía de Ronda. the 2003 vintage was the first to be traded, at a local level, though. Related information The whole yield is used to make quality wine; this is why production is The beauty of the place is worth a visit. Apart from the old manor and the restricted to 1 kg per vine. winery, there are other buildings and a patio with arches, where tasting sessions are held. The winery In the vast land of Los Aguilares, its owners, José Antonio Itarte and his wife, WINES: have chosen to refurbish the old manor, although both the production and DO Sierras de Málaga: Cortijo Los Aguilares ageing areas are new and conceived to produce excellent wines. That is why at the moment grapes arrive, they are carefully selected from a conveyor belt. Then they go to a stalk separator placed in such a way that

111 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil BODEGA THEODOR CONRAD

Address: Ctra. del Burgo, km. 4 Ronda (Málaga) Phone: 952 114 411 Owner: Theodor Conrad Production volume: 40,000 l a year

GRAPE: The faint light, the arches and the French and red oak barrels ensure that Varieties: Tempranillo, cabernet souvignon, cabernet franc great wines will be born to this winery, wines with strong personality which and merlot. reflect their author's. Purchased Grape: No Summary background The vineyard Theodor Conrad is a Swiss businessman who moved to Ronda in the late The first vines were planted in the vineyard in 2001, and then the number of 80's. Throughout his life, Conrad has had commercial links with Spain, and plants were gradually increased up to the current 7 ha with vines. Head- maybe the country's sun, good weather and joy made him decide to move trained vines make harvesting, made by hand, easier. The whole yield is to Málaga and live there. At the beginning, he used his property to cultivate used to make quality wine. This is why the harvesting process is carefully olive and almond trees, and to breed horses as well, but it was only in 2001 monitored and each plant yields only 1 kg; grapes are subsequently that he decided to start with wine-making activities. selected and only the best are used. Related information The winery The building also hosts a tasting room and a laboratory. The construction of the building where Theodor Conrad's winery stands today started in 2002. The winery is equipped with high-end technology to WINES: produce quality wines, and the decoration and architectural style in the DO Sierras de Málaga: Soleón ageing room is outstanding.

112 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil BODEGA EL BACO

Address: Camino Nador "El Baco" 29350 Arriate (Málaga) Teléfono/Fax: 952 870 539 Owner: Juan Manuel Vetas Martín Production volume: between 4,000 and 5,000 bottles a year Ageing takes place in new French oak barrels, depending on the variety. The time the wine will rest in wood is determined through constant tasting. Once ageing is over, the fining of the wine is made with egg white, and the liquid is bottled, unfiltered. After bottling it, the wine continues resting for one LA UVA: year and is launched into the market three years later. Varieties: Petit verdot, cabernet-sauvignon, cabernet franc. Purchased Grape: No Summary background Juan Manuel Vetas was born in Ávila, and he studied in Margaux, Bordeaux, The vineyard in France. He acquired experience when he established the first vineyard The vineyard covers one hectare in the El Baco estate, at 750 m above sea and winery in Ronda, "Cortijo Las Monjas", for which he was awarded the level, on a clayey calcareous soil, with a continental climate and average most prestigious medals. He is also one of the promoters of the viticultural yearly rainfalls between 500 and 600 l/ m2. Petit verdot is the most important movement whose boost can be seen nowadays in Ronda. Apart from his vine variety, occupying 80% of the vineyard. The vineyard has a plantation own vineyard, he runs and advises other vineyards in Ronda. frame of 2x1 and 1x1, with 5,000 vines per hectare, in Bordeaux style. Related information The winery Vetas's wines have been recommended in the specialised press. His winery The first selection takes place in the vineyard at the beginning of the is open to the public. veraison, (French term used for the growing period when the grapes take on their colour), when only the best bunches are kept, and then a second selection takes place when the grapes arrive at the winery. WINES: After the stemming, the grapes go to stainless steel containers where DO Málaga: No alcoholic fermentation and maceration takes place at a controlled DO Sierras de Málaga: Vetas and Vetas Petit Verdot temperature for three weeks.

113 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil fichas files Vetas. DO Sierras de Málaga BODEGA EL BACO

Varieties: Cabernet-sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot and tempranillo. Ageing: Between 16 and 18 months in French and red oak new barrels. Tasting: The complexity, resulting from the varieties used, and its balanced ageing give this wine an intense colour, with fruity aroma and a long taste. Its strong fruit notes prevail over toasty ones.

Vetas Petit Verdot. DO Sierras de Málaga

Varieties: 100% Petit verdot. Ageing: 18 months in new French oak barrels. Tasting: This is a complex wine with a strong personality which needs to be left a few minutes in the glass and would need further rounding in bottles. It is dark red, with the aroma of blackberries, mint, chocolate, and also wood and coffee. It is smooth in the mouth, but with many tannins, profound and fleshy.

114 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Wineries from Serranía de Ronda Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU index...olive oil OLIVE OIL IN MÁLAGA

0. Introduction

1. Olive Trees

2. Olives

3. Tourist Routes

4. Gastronomic Culture

5. Useful Tips

115 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Index Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil introduction MÁLAGA AND OIL Travellers arriving in In this rural landscape, where olive trees recur geometrically and Málaga will be welcome by a dual accurately, there are buildings and objects that make a rich heritage landscape, with two distinct areas: for industrial archaeology, for they have become true relics. the coast, an open window to the sea and its breeze, and the inland Encouraged by the increasing tourist demand, many of Málaga's region, with its open fields and its businessmen have repaired old olive presses and refurbished wild mountain ranges sheltering country estates one hundred years old, making them apt for leisure against the plateau's cold weather. and rest. These are the places where we would like to take you with this guide. It is in these lands, in the north and central region of the province, that olive is cultivated. Planted in never- ending lines, it creates a geometric and dotted picture. This thousand- year-old tree is used to produce an essential ingredient of Málaga's cuisine, as well as one of the staples of the region's economy: olive oil.

This guide does not just provide advice to visitors on the routes that can be taken to visit interesting places to their sight, taste or leisure: it also explains how important olive cultivation and the exploitation of its fruits have been for the inhabitants of Málaga throughout history.

Thus, the oil routes suggested combine ethnological and gastronomic aspects, art and history, peace and quietness with a discovery of Málaga villagers' roots.

116 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Introduction Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil HISTORY

The long history of this tree begins a long time ago. The olive tree is one of the accomplishments of the Neolithic revolution, and the result of man's domestication of a wild species: the acebuche. This species still grows in the hills and mounts of Andalusia, yielding very small olives with little pulp and a big stone and having small clustered thorny leaves.

The first olive tree plantations were grown in the Eastern Mediterranean more than five thousand years ago. Evidence suggests it was cultivated in areas occupied by the most ancient civilizations: the Egyptians, the Babylonians and the Assyrians. Later, the Phoenicians introduced it to the Western world, and then the olive tree accompanied the expansion of the cultures that laid the foundations of the Mediterranean civilization: 1. oLIVE TREES the Greeks, the Romans and the Arabs. The province of Málaga, especially the fertile lands overlooking the sea, HISTORY was either the final destination or an obligatory stopover for peoples in transit. Proof of this melting pot is the ancient recipes and customs that have A SACRED TREE survived to this day. Who would dare deny that pescaíto frito (fried fish) dates back Phoenician times? The city of Mainake, founded by the Phoenicians near THE LIFE OF THE OLIVE TREE the site occupied by Málaga City today, witnessed the development of the first olive trees brought from distant lands with great care, and and offered a favourable soil for CULTIVARS them to grow.

OLIVE TREE GROWING Archaeological data confirm that olive growing and oil making and trading were one of the bases of Málaga's economy in Roman times also.

117 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Ol i v e Tr ees : Hi s t or y Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil From the port of Mainake, to wait until the 17th century, when large forests were ploughed up and and from other ports of the these fertile and virgin lands were covered with olives, cereals and Bética, set off ships loaded vineyards. Later on, in the 19th century, the phylloxera plague forced many with clay amphorae of the farmers that live by growing vines to replace their vineyards for olive containing the precious groves, even though the soil was not the most adequate for this crop. As a liquid. It is said that Mount matter of fact, olive growing is in jeopardy in most of these lands. Testaccio was formed with the discarded fragments of More recently, the vast olive regions located in the North of Málaga have those broken amphorae become the base of the economy of many of its villages. The technological (tiestos). advances that improved the cultivation, harvest, and grinding of these fruits, as well as the extraordinary quality of our oils have promoted the The arrival of the Arabs at the beginning of the 8th century would bring expansion of Malaga's olive groves, which enjoy a more than promising olive growing and oil production to their greatest splendor. future. Experts in the art of agriculture, the Arabs modernized the old Roman cultivation techniques, and turned meadows and riversides into rich Traditionally used as orchards. They developed many of the methods used in olive growing and raw material in oil extraction, and introduced a preservation system involving big glass jars hygiene and lighting, since they were, and still are, masters in the art of pottery. The importance olive oil, the 'green that the olive had for the Arabs mirrors in the language, because most of gold' extracted from the vocabulary related to it is Arabic. For instance: the word 'aceite' the olive, gives (Spanish for oil) comes from 'az-zait', which means 'olive juice'; 'almazara' Mediterranean gastronomy a unique flavor. Whereas people from the (an oil press) comes from the root 'ma'sara', 'to squeeze or press'; and North of Europe used animal fat for cooking, those from the South cooked 'alpechín' (the vegetable waters obtained during pressing) from 'alpechín', with oil, a healthier vegetal fat. The use of oil is one of the reasons that meaning 'dregs', 'black'. account for the virtues of the so called Mediterranean diet, to which Málaga oil deservedly belongs. In the trilogy formed by bread, oil, and wine, the After the Catholic Monarchs conquered Málaga in 1487, olive growing green juice of the olive plays the tastiest role, since there are hardly any continued to be one of the pillars of the life and economy of the province. dishes that do not include it among their ingredients. If bread and wine help The hardest times for our agriculture came after the Moorish expulsion, walking the road, the smoothness of oil makes it less hard. when plantations were abandoned by their traditional farmers, thus leading to a general backward step in the activity. In the North of the province, the division of land into large states did not favor intensive farming. We have

118 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Ol i v e Tr ees : Hi s t or y Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil A SACRED TREE The Greeks had one of the most beautiful legends to explain the mythical origin of the olive tree. In the mount Olympus, Zeus, the father of all the gods, called Jupiter by the Romans, mediated a dispute between two of his children.

Poseidon, later identified by the Romans with Neptune, and Athena, the Roman Minerva, worshiped as the goddess of wisdom, fought for the honor of being chosen protectors of the most beautiful and prosperous city of Attica. To settle such a delicate question, the venerable Zeus proposed to the contenders that each of them should present a gift to the city. The winner would be the one that gave the most worthwhile creation to its inhabitants.

With a terrible stroke of his trident, Poseidon made a crystalline spring flow from a stone of the Acropolis, and from the spring emerged a spirited white horse, so far an unknown animal in Greece.

In her turn, Athena caressed the ground beneath her feet, and from it an olive shoot emerged. The goddess presented the shoot to the city, The olive is so beneficial to humankind that it has been revered as a saying that it would soon become a strong tree that would live for ever sacred tree. The Bible, the Greco-Roman mythology, Christianity and and ever. The fruits of this tree not only would be suitable for eating, Islamism make continuous references to its qualities and virtues: a but also they could be pressed to obtain a precious liquid to be used symbol of peace, an image of immortality, and the representation of by men to season their food, heal their wounds, strengthen their holiness. bodies, and light up their nights, since used as fuel it could keep a fire burning for many hours. She was chosen to protect the fortunate In the Bible, the olive is mentioned in several occasions. A dove inhabitants of the city that, from then on, would be known as Athens in carrying an olive branch announced to Noah that the Flood was over honor of their deity. and that the land was solid and dry. In the New Testament, Jesus prayed in a mount of olives, Gethsemane, which in Hebrew means 'a place in which oil is produced'.

119 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Ol i v e Tr ees : A s ac r ed t r ee Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil In Christian liturgy, the body is anointed with olive oil blessed by the priest, and known as holy oil, in two crucial moments of life: the Baptism, and the extreme unction or last rites given to those who are about to die. In Catholic churches, an oil lamp burns night and day to light up the tabernacle.

Islam also praises the virtues of oil.

In a sura from the Koran, Mohammed says: "God is the light in heaven and earth. His light is like a niche on which there is a lamp. The lamp is in a glass vessel that resembles a bright star. It burns thanks to a blessed tree, the olive, which is neither oriental, nor occidental, and whose oil glitters even untouched by fire. Light from the light"

There must be something sacred about oil if we are blessed with it.

Olive oil has been revered by all the ancient Mediterranean peoples. The Greeks rubbed it on their bodies after the bath, and athletes used it to keep their muscles flexible in the gymnasium. Roman gladiators covered their skins with oil before fighting on the arena of the Colosseum. To anoint a person is a way to revere and honor him; as Mary Magdalene did with Jesus Christ.

120 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Ol i v e Tr ees : A s ac r ed t r ee Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil THE LIFE OF THE OLIVE TREE and twists and becomes rough, knotty and even cracked with age. The base of the tree, called stump or foot, is a wooden mass that store reserves and grows shoots ('varetas') that will regenerate the plant. With the passing of time, the core of the short trunk of the olive dies, sometimes leaving it hollow, whereas the bark remains alive. This is why the thick trunks of old olives have a knotty, twisted and stunted appearance so characteristic.

From ancient times, the olive has also been a symbol of immortality due to its ability to rise, like a Phoenix, from its ashes. According to the legend, when the Persian burned the Acropolis and everything was left in ruins, the only thing that remained alive in the middle of such desolation was the sacred tree, the olive planted in the temple of Erechtheion. Even though its Olive trees are one of the most long-living trees known. They can live up trunk was carbonized, very soon the tree grew new shoots that turned into to a thousand years and, thus, since the first crops were grown in the slender branches. Oriental Mediterranean, they have always been revered as a symbol of eternity. In Málaga, the most interesting hundred-year-old specimens can be found in the area of Periana, in the Axarquía, and in Alameda. It is highly Olive tree growth is slow because it only stays 'alive', feeding on sap, from probable that some of these trees bear their fruits in Arab times, and that April to the end of October. However, as from August, its development is their tops gave shelter to people from different cultures, religions and restrained due to heat and lack of sap. In November, the olive enters a races. winter pause. Fruits will not develop in the branches that sprout in the spring, but in those grown during the previous year. Although it is not farmed, the olive remains alive without becoming wild. Pruning, fertilization and hoeing are enough for the tree to be reborn and During its life, the period of optimum production of an olive tree is to recover its lushness. Since it is an evergreen tree, it will maintain its dark estimated between its ten and fifty years old. There is a saying related to green leaves for centuries, creating an immutable landscape. this: Olive groves, from your grandfather; fig trees, from your father; and vineyards, from yourself. Climate conditions its growth, and though this is a crop that typically develops in the warm temperatures of the Mediterranean area, it can Its age does not reflect on its height (that can reach a maximum of 12 to endure frosts, provided that temperature does not drop below -7ºC. 15 m), but on the size of its trunk, which is smooth and grey during youth,

121 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olive Trees: The life of the olive tree Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil CULTIVARS which are thus called 'veceros'. This is illustrated in the saying: Olives and money; sometimes plenty, sometimes any.

Modern plantations grow olive trees of a single variety; the one that best adapts to the local conditions of soil, temperature and rainfall pattern.

In a simplified distribution, the province of Málaga can be divided into three areas according to the olive cultivar that predominates in each one. It is worth mentioning that some of these varieties are native of this region. Thus, in the North preponderates the Hojiblanco, in the West (Axarquía), the Verdial de Vélez; and in the Valle del Guadalhorce, the Manzanillo aloreno.

However, these species with 'origin denomination' coexist with others that have been introduced throughout the years. In the North, together with the Hojiblanco there are important plantations of Romerillos and Gordalillos, the latter in the area of Archidona. Something similar occurs in the There are almost three hundred olive varieties in the world. The effect of Axarquía, in which some Nevadillos can be found together with the typical climate, soil composition, and the type of growing system applied, among Verdial. other conditions, contributed to its diversification and adaptation. And although to the layperson all olives may look alike, each variety has From the bordering provinces of Málaga (Jaén, Córdoba, Granada and botanic characteristics of its own and produces a specific type of fruit, both Sevilla) and even from other regions of Spain, new varieties have been in shape and in color. Likewise, the oil extracted from each olive cultivar adopted due to their resistance to low temperatures or to the quality of their has distinct organoleptic characteristics. olives. Such is the case of the Marteno, the Lopereno or the Picual, which is native to this town of Jaén, or the Arbequino, originally cultivated in Traditionally, olive groves were composed of different olive varieties. Cataluña. Foreign varieties such as the Gordal and the Lechin are also Among other reasons, this was made to guarantee annual harvests, since widely popular. olive trees has alternate bearing of fruits. In Spanish, this phenomenon of yielding a high amount of fruits one year and significantly less production The oil extracted from the different olive cultivars, though of the same the following year is called 'veceria' and is characteristic of olive trees, quality, has distinct organoleptic characteristics (taste, smell), which allow tasters and gastronomes to identify its origin.

122 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Ol i v e Tr ees : Cul t i v ar s Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil OLIVE TREE GROWING Olives, which are evergreen trees, need regular pruning to regenerate and renew the branches that will grew olives on the next harvest. This practice must be carried out in due time and without fear of being radical, because, as an old and wise saying goes; Make me poor in wood, and I'll make you rich in fruits. In Spanish, pruning is sometimes called 'tala' and the experts that perform it, 'talaores'.

Firewood coming from olive trees has been used as fuel for traditional stoves. Moreover, carbon production, once a traditional industry that has almost disappeared, took advantage of this wood that, together with that from holm oak, provided the best quality carbon. Nowadays, many thermal centrals that use biomass as fuel are being built. Most of this fuel comes from our olive trees.

As in the case of many fruit trees, olives can not be propagated Although olives grow in dry soils, either flat or in slope, and that a by seed, since they would revert to the original wild variety. regular rain is enough for them to develop, nowadays trees are Usually, the method applied by growers and nursery owners watered during the dry seasons to enhance their growth and consists of burying a green leafless branch that, after a while, will increase their productivity. However, they do not need much grow shoots. Then, with proper pruning, these shoots will form a irrigation, since they will not develop in swamped soils. foot. Not long ago, olive trees were grown with three feet or trunks to ensure an annual harvest. Due to the introduction of new Today, fertilization is carried out with chemical products, and technology, plantation owners now prefer single-trunk trees. By organic fertilizer coming from manure is only used in the the way, in Spanish, the verb 'to plant' ('plantar') derives from the increasingly numerous plantations that manufacture biological oil. fact that the ground is pressed with the sole of your foot ('planta') to make sure that the seeds will grow. To fight pests that affect olives, their leaves, or their fruits, farmers use pesticides less and less harmful for the surrounding fauna and Olive groves must be planted keeping a fixed distance between flora. trees in order to improve their growth and make manipulation and harvest easier.

123 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olive Trees: Olive tree growing Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil An olive grove demands a lot of work, since olive growing is a labor-intensive process: to fertilize and plough the soil, to cut off the suckers, to prune the trees to let them breathe…

Olive trees blossom in the beginning of spring, producing a number of tiny flowers (known as trama in some places of Andalucía) from which yellowish pollen is spread.

Frosts and strong winds may cause the crop to fail. On the other hand, only some of the flowers are pollinated, since the tree would not be able to bear fruits from all of them. And though they seem a few at first, as time goes by, they will form beautiful bunches. As the saying goes: One in midsummer, a hundred in Christmas.

Olives set in the beginning of summer and fully ripe before winter. The history of olives and the oil extracted from them is summarized in the old riddle:

(En verde rama nací, entre piedras me mataron, en un pozo me caí y del pozo me sacaron y a todo el mundo serví.)

I was born from a green tree Between stones they killed me Into a pit I was thrown And from it, later withdrawn Useful I am and always will be.

124 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olive Trees: Olive tree growing Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil EARLY HARVEST OLIVES

Olives (called aceitunas or olivas in Spanish) are the fruit of olive trees. Depending on cultivars, e.g. manzanilla, verdial, romerilla, picual, hojiblanca, arbequina, or lechín, they can vary in colour, shape and size. In regions where winter is very cold, olives are 2. oLIVES ripe in late January, and if they are harvested before, they do not yield as much as they could. This is where the popular saying comes from: "If you reap olives before January, you will leave the oil in the tree." EARLY HARVEST OLIVES In October, when the fruit is still green, olives are harvested for PICKING OLIVES consumption. These are called fresh olives, and they can be served as an appetiser or garnish. This early harvest is called verdeo, and it is done CRUSHING OLIVES very carefully to prevent olives from being damaged. The procedure is called ordeño (milking), since olives are picked entirely by hand as if PRESSING OLIVES labourers were milking cows or goats. As the olives should not fall on the soil, they are stored in baskets that reapers carry round their necks, which are called macacos in some places.

125 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olives: Early harvest olives Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Many villages in the province of Málaga (Álora, Antequera, Vélez, to name Apart from salt and vinegar, table olives are salted and cured with aromatic but a few) elaborate and commercialise delicious, high-quality table olives. herbs such as thyme, rosemary and oregano, garlic, orange peel, clove or Since the beginning of time, olives have been prepared for domestic lemon. Seasoning techniques do not vary much among fresh olive consumption in different ways: whole, broken, pitted, stuffed or as snacks. producers. Nowadays, pickled olives make a blossoming industry as well. What follows is an Antequera recipe to make seasoned olives, which The first procedure illustrates the process: to treat green olives to be used as a Ingredients: green olives, garlic, salt, oregano, ground pepper, red pepper gourmet produce is and oranges. to draw out the alpechín, a residual Preparation: Break olives with a wooden mallet. To sweeten them, soak watery liquid. If it is them in water and leave them to rest for several days, changing the water not removed, olives every day. Once they are sweetened, prepare a marinade with raw garlic, keep their natural oregano and ground pepper, all of them crushed. Then, remove the water acrid and bitter taste. were the olives have been sweetened, and pour the olives in fresh water with the marinade. Leave them to rest for two or three days, so that they There are two different "sweetening" procedures, depending on acquire the taste of the marinade. You can also add cubes of red pepper, whether the final product will be whole or broken olives. For the latter, (wild) orange peels and uncrushed raw garlic cloves. we need to hit olives with a wooden tenderiser on a wooden surface; some, extremely patient, curers, use a knife or penknife to cut them in When seasoned using these homely techniques and packed in large glass halves. After breaking or cutting them, olives are soaked in water jars, olives can be kept without turning white or being spoiled until summer without chlorine for eight to ten days, the water being changed on a has set in. If you need some of the olives, remove them with a wooden daily basis. In the case of whole olives, they are treated with a quick ladle and place them in a small saucepan, and try to leave the rest of what procedure, soaking them in alkaline solutions of soda or potash for is in the jar as intact as possible. some hours, and then proceeding to salt them. The salting process is the same for both broken and whole olives. Seasoned olives can be served as bar snacks or as a garnish accompanying salads. In old times, they used to be a dessert, which is reflected in the popular saying "to arrive for the olives", meaning "to arrive to taste the desert", i.e. to arrive late.

126 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olives: Early harvest olives Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil PICKING OLIVES Olives have always been picked by hand. In small, family-run olive orchards, all the members of the family take part in olive picking. Women pick soleras, i.e. olives that have fallen to the soil. This are sent to the mill separately, since they produce an inferior oil. The most difficult task fall on the shoulders of men, who use sticks to beat olives down from trees. The size of the stick depends on where the olives are in the tree: for bajeras, i.e. olives in lower branches, shorter sticks are used, whereas for fruits in the higher branches, men use longer sticks. When beating olive trees to pick the olives, careful attention is paid not to damage tender shoots (the talón, meaning "heel"), for they will bear fruit the following year. Picking olives by hand is a slow process, but olive trees are said to feel grateful for that, as in the proverb: "Olive trees are not convicts, so do not treat them with a stick: use your hand."

From the time olives appear as small green balls on the branches of olive trees, in late spring, until they are fully ripe, there is the passing of summer, dry and hot. Olive trees can resist droughts and heat. In fact, their fruit can be damaged if it rains after spring. This is captured in the saying: "If there's water by Saint John's day, no wine, no bread and no oil." Instead, autumn rains are beneficial, and they ensure that good fruits will be reaped.

Olives used for oil production need to be ripe before they are harvested. This happens in mid November, when they turn bright purple black.

127 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olives: Picking olives Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil To make harvesting easier, straw bales are placed surrounding the As was already explained, new technology and sophisticated planting tree for olives to fall on them. Mechanical harvesters (rakes operated systems have made olive picking easier and more profitable. manually or incorporated into tractors) have made picking much Nevertheless, this stage still requires a great many labourers. This is easier. In the past, a team of olive pickers used to pick 500 kilos of why seasonal workers, especially immigrants, are hired to help in olives. With the new technology, this number has increased tenfold. picking tasks.

Moreover, in the past, olives had to be pruned before being taken to the mill. To remove leaves, twigs and dirt, olive pickers had to fan them. Later, sieves came to be used: metal nettings separating olives from leaves and dirt, the former being put in baskets and the latter falling on the floor. Nowadays, these complicated procedures are no longer necessary, since in modern mills olives are automatically pruned and washed before being weighed and crushed.

The time elapsed between picking and crushing the olives must be short, for if they are stored for too long, they can ferment and this can affect the quality of the oil produced.

Once picked and stored in sacks, olives are sent to the press, a job for which horses used to be essential. Nowadays, however, this picture of horses carrying olive sacks can only be seen in Axarquía, whose broken lands still make it necessary to resort to these animals for transportation. Technological progress has changed things so much that now olives need not be stored in sacks to be transported. They are just poured in tractor trailers and directly placed in press hoppers. This results in less bruising and fresher crushing.

128 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olives: Picking olives Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil CRUSHING OLIVES The Arabs were real experts In the past, horses were used to take olives from the fields to the mills. in using the power of water, Nowadays, however, this practice is still common only in steep lands such and they built magnificent as those of Axarquía and Serranía de Ronda, aceñas (mills on the banks whereas in the rest of the regions olives reach of rivers that used the flow the mills in modern tractors or powerful off- and ebb of water for road vehicles. In the mills, they are weighed, grinding). This was how cleaned and sampled to calculate their yield. watermills were born. In Then, they are taken to the press itself. Málaga, they could be counted by the thousands, The first step to extract oil from the olives is to taking advantage of the flow of water of the province's numerous streams grind them. Pruned and cleaned olives, free of and rivers. Olive crushing seasons have traditionally been autumn and twigs, leaves or the dirt they might carry, are winter, and this is because this is the time of the year when rivers have crushed until the oil comes out of the cells more water in them. were it is kept in the fruit. With the industrial revolution of the 19th century, new oil mills were Since it was first invented, olive crushing has gone a long way. The first invented, powered by internal combustion engines or, later on, by electric mills were manually operated and they served quite distinct purposes, engines. However, most of Málaga's mills continued using animals or such as crushing olives or grinding wheat or corn. Later on, horse-drawn water power well into the 20th century. mills were introduced, and they were used in many mills until recently. Animals, especially horses, were used to turn the millstone round. For the After crushing, the animals not to get dizzy, millers used to blindfold them. Those primitive homogeneous mass mills, many of which can be traced back to Roman times, had enormous of crushed olives has millstones. They could be cylindrical, conical or truncated cones. They to undergo pressing. were fixed to a central pillar, and with their weight, they crushed the fruit at a relatively high speed rate.

129 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olives: Crushing olives Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil PRESSING OLIVES Magnificent beam presses have been kept to date in Las Pilas mill, in Teba, or in Antequera's Olive Oil Museum. Such big machines required Until new technologies were large buildings that could house their enormous components, since their introduced, pressing crushed functioning relied on height (the beam went upwards and downwards). olives to extract as much oil as Those buildings were mill towers, typical of Málaga's countryside, which possible was a Herculean task. can still be seen today. Primitive techniques to separate the liquid phase (oil and alpechín The last mechanical invention which preceded modern centrifugation = vegetable waters) from the solid systems was the hydraulic press. There are hydraulic presses still working phase (orujo = broken olive skin, in some old mills. The most well-known in Málaga are in the Molino de las pulp and pit) were entirely manual: Pacas, in Alhaurín de la Torre, and the one in Mondrón's mill, in Periana. sacks were filled with the crushed The finest components for these iron presses have been forged at Heredia mass and the precious liquid was blacksmith's, located near the extracted by pressing or twisting Misericordia beaches. Now, the with one's hands. only remaining icon of Heredia's is its huge chimney, The Romans created a system which is visible from every similar to the one used for corner of the province. New crushing grapes: wearing heavy mills, on the other hand, are wooden clogs, labourers stepped technological prodigies: clean, on a trough were they pressed the olives, and the liquid went along a effective and fast. channel to the settling tanks. Manual screw presses have also been used, in which two labourers had to wring the olive paste layered over straw mats.

These techniques were slow and could only be used with a small amount of paste. Therefore, new and more effective systems emerged as products of human ingenuity. One of these useful inventions was the beam press, based on the lever law, which allowed for a huge amount of paste to be pressed at once. This system made it possible to press together taller piles of straw mats which were traversed by a stick, with paste between them.

130 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olives: Pressing olives Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Olive oil is extracted from olives by crushing and pressing them in a process that results in three separate phases: oil, vegetable waters or alpechín, and pomace or orujo. The separation can be done by traditional methods or by using more modern techniques.

Pomace or orujo, which is used to produce inferior varieties of oil or fuel, comes from the solid phase of olives (including the pit and the skin) and makes up to 23% to 35% of the whole produce, depending on the kind of olives. Alpechín, a blackish liquid with a peculiar smell, is almost entirely vegetable water, with some other substances. It represents almost 40% to 55% of olive weight. Nowadays, its use as a fertiliser is being tested, with positive results. Oil proper, "the liquid gold of the Mediterranean", as it was referred to by Homer, the result of so much work and zeal, is less than a third of the original olive weight, accounting for 18% to 32%. 3. oLIVE OIL Every olive oil grower believes the oil he makes is the best on Earth, maybe because they have never tasted somebody else's or perhaps they have, but they found it funny, different from their own. This is why the best way to assess the quality of olive oil is to resort to the objective judgement of a TYPES OF OIL professional olive oil taster, for they can point out the weaknesses and strengths of each type of oil by evaluating how they taste and smell. The oil's STORAGE IN MILLS "flavour" is the combination of its smell, taste and texture. How these factors are combined depends on olive ripening degree, which affects oil composition. Early COOPERATIVES harvest olives, for instance, produce a greenish, somewhat fruity and hot oil. Fully ripened olives, on the other hand, result in a golden, sweet and less fruity type of oil. OIL-PRODUCING REGIONS Most extra virgin olive oil available has undergone coupage, a blending process of oils from different cultivars and olive types or varieties to obtain a highly homogeneous and top-quality oil. 131 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olive Oil Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil TYPES OF OIL

To avoid marketing fraud and 1.3. Ordinary virgin olive oil. Its acidity is provide consumers with lower than or equal to 3.3%. information on oil quality, retail 1.4. Lampante virgin olive oil. It contains labels have to show the oil's more than 3.3% of oleic acid. grade clearly. The standards are complicated, but according 2. REFINED OLIVE OIL to the regulations in force, there This is oil obtained from virgin oil by refining methods, such as using are the following oil grades: chemicals. Some of these procedures use a special type of earth for bleaching and decolourising, and then filtering systems. Refined olive oil 1. VIRGIN OLIVE OIL can also be obtained by physical distillation and vacuum-heating. It is the oil produced by mechanical processes, such as pressing or centrifugation, which do not alter the product. 3. OLIVE OIL This is a mix of virgin (non lampante) oils to which refined olive oil is added. Virgin olive oil keeps the taste, smell and nutrients such as vitamins of the Its acidity has to be lower than or equal to 1.5%. It is the most widely type original fruit. Oil characteristics depend on such factors as growing region, of oil in Spain for consumption purposes. cultivar, olive ripening degree, picking system, and storage. 4. CRUDE OLIVE-POMACE OIL There are the following types of virgin olive oil: This type of oil is obtained from pomace by using solvents. 1.1. Extra virgin olive oil. Its acidity is lower than or equal to 1%. An oil's acidity depends on how much oleic acid it contains. 5. REFINED OLIVE-POMACE OIL 1.1.1 Single-varietal virgin olive oil. It is obtained from a single variety It is the result of refining crude olive-pomace oil. Oleic acid in it is lower of olives: hojiblanca, picual, romerillo, or others. than 0.5%. 1.1.2 Coupage virgin olive oil. It is obtained from a combination of several varieties of olives. The result is a blend homogeneous in taste and 6. OLIVE-POMACE OIL smell. This oil is obtained by mixing refined olive-pomace oils and virgin olive oil 1.1.3 Oils with protected designations of origin. These oils are made (non lampante varieties). Its acidity is never higher than 1.5%. from olives with a specific geographical origin, such as Antequera. 1.2. Fino olive oil (fino = fine) / Virgin olive oil (fine). Oleic acid is lower than or equal to 2%.

132 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olive Oil. Types of oil Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil To summarise all this and provide consumers with all necessary information at a glance, we offer the following chart:

OLIVES

Virgin olive oil (obtained from olive juice)

Suitable for consumption Not suitable for consumption (without further processing) Lampante virgin olive oil Extra virgin olive oil Virgin olive oil (fine) Ordinary virgin olive oil

FILTERING REFINING Refined olive oil

BOTTLING

CONSUMER

133 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olive Oil. Types of oil Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil STORAGE IN MILLS

In old mills, oil, which is lighter Modern mills, on the other hand, have enormous stainless steel than water, floated on top of cellars, which ensure a perfectly safe storage. olive vegetable waters. This made extraction in buckets Oil, however, is not like wine: it looses its properties as time goes easier. The oil was stored in by. This is why experts suggest that it should be consumed within terracotta jars, which were the year of production. prevented from bursting with the oil's pressure by half burying them underground and covering them with a large wooden lid. This system is virtually the same as that used in Roman times. In fact, pieces of doliae (large earthen jars) have been found near the rural villages of Roman Málaga, probably serving the same purpose as our old jars.

In the 19th century, iron- panelled cellars began to be used. However, they had a serious disadvantage: the oxide forming in the walls could pervade the oil stored, resulting in an unpleasant flavour.

But the houses of Málaga, where several litres of oil had to be stored for direct consumption, stuck to burying the jars, typically in the coolest places.

134 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olive Oil: Storage in mills Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil COOPERATIVES

In the province of Málaga, there are over 120,000 ha olive tree orchards producing 250 million kg olives each season. Once crushed, these olives produce around 100 million kg olive oil, involving a lot of labour and machinery. Málaga's farmers use the province's 70 active mills, most of them organised in cooperatives, to crush their olives. Most mills are located in Antequera and the north-eastern region, where the largest amount of oil is produced. In Serranía de Ronda, Sierra de las Nieves, Guadalteba and Axarquía, there still are small mills, which account for just 10% of the province's oil production.

Until the 1960s, only owners of big olive plantations had their own mills. Small farmers had to take their olives to a nearby mill and pay their dues or maquila for olive crushing and oil extraction.

This system was disadvantageous, unfair and costly. Thus, after Cooperatives have their own systems of oil distribution and the boom in production of olives, farmers gathered in cooperatives marketing, a crucial point for the farmers' economy. Spain is the with their own mills after the first olive trees bore fruit. And even first olive oil producer in the world, followed by Italy, Greece, though some small independent companies have survived to date, Algeria and Tunisia. And even though most of the oil is produced especially in Axarquía, Guadalteba, Ronda and the Guadalhorce for domestic consumption, the exports have been increasing Valley, where they crush and press the owner's olives as well as steadily in the last few years, mainly due to the more widespread those of other farmers, they are doomed to failure, so they will inclusion of this beneficial vegetal fat in dietary habits. have to close down or make ecological synthetic oil.

135 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olive Oil: cooperatives Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil COOPERATIVES IN THE PROVINCE OF MÁLAGA

S.C.A. S. JUSTO NTRA. SRA. CARMEN S.C.A. OLIV. SAN JUAN BAUTISTA Barrio Albaicín, 47 San Juan Bautista, 106 29310 Villanueva de Algaidas 29220 Cuevas Bajas Phone: 952 74 31 80 Phone: 95 272 95 29

S.L. FERNÁNDEZ RUIZ Y AGUILAR S.C. AND. OLIV. SAN BENITO c/ Partido de Sta. María, 3 Extramuros, s/n 29400 Ronda 29320 Campillos Phone: 95 287 13 74 Phone: 95 272 22 62

RAFAEL MOTA RODRÍGUEZ S.C.A. AG. OLIV. S. COSME S. DAMIÁN Finca la Paca, s/n. Ctra.C-366 km. 74 Ctra. del Saucejo, s/n 29120 Alhaurín El Grande 29330 Almargen Phone: 95 249 06 17 Phone: 95 218 23 14

S.C.A. OLIV. LA PURÍSIMA S.C.A. NTRA. SRA. DEL CARMEN Paraje San José, s/n Avd. Juan XXIII, 1 29300 Archidona 29210 Cuevas de San Marcos Phone: 95 271 40 81 Phone: 95 272 80 78

S.C.A. LA PURÍSIMA CONCEPCIÓN S.C.A. NTRA. SRA. DEL ROSARIO DE ALAMEDA Pol. Ind. c/Alcarabán, s/n Plaza de la Constitución, 10 29531 Humilladero 29530 Alameda Phone: 95 273 70 77 Phone: 95 271 01 55 S.C.A. AGR. VIRGEN VIRTUDES Ctra. Alameda, 1 29520 Fuente de Piedra Phone: 95 273 51 74

136 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olive Oil: cooperatives Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil COOPERATIVES IN THE PROVINCE OF MÁLAGA

S.C.A. DEL CAMPO NTRA. SRA. DE S.C.A. AGRÍCOLA ALMAZARA DE RONDA S.C.A. SAGRADO CORAZÓN MONSALUD Ctra. Sevilla-San Pedro, km.121,600 Ctra. Zumaque, km. 1,5 C/ Eguidillo, 25 29400 Ronda 29566 Casarabonela 29194 Alfarnate Phone: 95 287 30 35 Phone: 95 245 66 21 Phone: 95 275 90 52 S.C.A. OLIV. NTRA. SRA. CANDELARIA S.C.A. MANZANILLA ALOREÑA S.C.A. OLIVARERA DEL TRABUCO El Pilar, s/n (Ctra. Riogordo) Pol. Ind. La Molina, parcela 51 Paraje Las Coronillas s/n 29170 Colmenar 29500 Álora 29313 Villanueva del Trabuco Phone: 95 273 01 02 Phone: 95 249 89 60 Phone: 95 275 11 96 ALCAZARÍN REUNIDOS FP, S.L. S.C.A. COTRACON S.C.A. AG. NTRA. SRA. DE LOS REMEDIOS Ctra. Coín Paraje La Teja Puente de Málaga s/n Ctra. Córdoba, s/n 29110 Monda 29420 El Burgo 29200 Antequera Phone: 95 243 12 70 Phone: 95 216 02 51 Phone: 95 270 28 38 S.C.A. OLIV. S. JOSÉ ARTESANO C.B. HNOS. JIMÉNEZ MARÍN S.C. SALVA. JOSE ORDÓÑEZ MARTÍN Barriada de Mondrón, s/n Los Ventorros de la Cruz, s/n Escamilla, 17 29710 Periana 29195 Comares 29100 Coín Phone: 95 253 79 15 Phone: 95 239 32 70 Phone: 95 245 03 27 S.C.A. AGR. SAN JUAN S.C.A. OLIV. NTRA. SRA. ROSARIO Rivera del Río Cerezo Llano de la Estación, s/n 29312 Villanueva del Rosario 29327 Teba Phone: 95 274 21 10 Phone: 95 274 82 21 S.C.A. OLEOALGAIDAS Polig. Industrial, Parcela 38 29310 Villanueva de Algaidas Phone: 95 274 45 02

137 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olive Oil: cooperatives Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil COOPERATIVES IN THE PROVINCE OF MÁLAGA

S.C.A. OLIV. NTRA. SRA. DE GRACIA S.C.A. NTRA. SRA. DE LA ESPERANZA La parrilla, 156 Daire, 39 29310 Villanueva de Algaidas 29715 Sedella Phone: 95 274 32 77 S.C.A. OLIV. FRUT. SAN ISIDRO S.C.A. AGRO OLIVARERA RIOGORDO Carrascal, 1-3 Noguera, 41 29710 Periana 29180 Riogordo Phone: 95 253 60 20 Phone: 95 273 22 07 S.C.A. PURÍSIMA SANTIAGOCOPUSÁN ANDRÉS RUÍZ URBANO Molinos, 8 C/ Paseo de la Villa, 2 29567 Alozaina 29110 Monda Phone: 95 248 00 46 Phone: 95 236 06 02 GIL PÉREZ, ANTONIO S.A.T. Nº 8064 EL LABRADOR Ronda, 6 Los Villares 29420 El Burgo 29520 Fuente de Piedra Phone: 95 216 01 79 Phone: 95 273 50 94 S.C.A. EL MOLINO DE GUARO SÁNCHEZ SÁNCHEZ, JOSÉ LUCIANO Ctra. de Guaro a Coín, km.1 Finca La Ermita 29108 Guaro 29492 Jubrique Phone: 95 211 29 76 Phone: 95 280 19 84 S.C.A. AGRO OLIVARERA RIOGORDO LÓPEZ MARTÍN, FRANCISCA Pozo, 60 Mesones, 22 29180 Riogordo 29410 Yunquera Phone: 95 273 22 33 Phone: 95 248 27 29

138 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olive Oil: cooperatives Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil COOPERATIVES IN THE PROVINCE OF MÁLAGA

S.C.A. AGR. SAN SEBASTIÁN S.C.A. AGR. DE FRIGILIANA S.C.A. SANTA CATALINA MÁRTIR Puente de don Manuel,1 Santo Cristo, s/n C/ Calvario, 2 29711 Alcaucín 29788 Frigiliana 29717 Arenas Phone: 95 251 08 07 Phone: 95 253 30 37 Phone: 95 250 90 03

S.L. ACEITES AXARQUÍA PÉREZ GONZÁLEZ, PEDRO IGNACIO S.C.A. OLIV. SANTA RITA Explanada de la Estación, 3 Juan Bravo, 2 Iglesia, 52 29700 Vélez-Málaga 29738 Benagalbón-Rincón de la Victoria 29315 Villanueva de tapia Phone: 952 50 04 98 Phone: 95 239 42 10 Phone: 95 275 00 08

S.C.A. AGR. SAN ISIDRO CANO BRIONES, JESÚS S.C.A. AGR. NTRA. SRA. NIEVES Calvario, s/n El Molino, n.1-Valle Niza Ctra. Cómpeta, km 0,9 29716 Canillas de Aceituno 29700 Vélez-Málaga Valle Niza 29770 Torrox Phone: 95 250 45 50 Phone: 95 251 46 11 Phone: 95 253 80 22

S.C.A. AC. SANTA TERESA DE JESÚS CAMPOS PENDÓN, JESÚS RAFAEL TOLEDO MARÍN Los Romanes, s/n C/ Río, 5 El Zao Polígono 2 p-81,95 y 96 29713 La Viñuela 29750 Algarrobo 29410 Yunquera Phone: 95 255 44 12 Phone: 95 255 27 88 Phone: 95 248 28 58

S.A. OLEOLIVA S.C.A. AGR. SAN ISIDRO S.C.A. VIRGEN DE LA OLIVA C/ Matagallar s/n Carretera de Cómpeta, s/n Ctra. Alameda, 17 29310 Villanueva de Algaidas 29752 Sayalonga 29532 Mollina Phone: 95 274 40 40 Phone: 95 253 50 15 Phone: 95 274 01 00

S.L. ACEITE PRENSA S.C.A. VEGA DE ARCHIDONA ARVEGA S.C.A. AGRÍCOLA DE CÓMPETA Real Alto, s/n Trapiche Ctra. Jerez-Cartagena, km. 175 Avd. de Torrox, 33 29719 Vélez Málaga 29300 Archidona 29754 Cómpeta Phone: 95 254 26 99 Phone: 95 271 43 73 Phone: 95 251 63 01

139 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olive Oil: cooperatives Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil COOPERATIVES IN THE PROVINCE OF MÁLAGA

S.C.A. SANTA CATALINA MÁRTIR S.L. ACEITES TAPIA S.L. BRAVOLIVA C/ Calvario, 2 Ctra. Comarcal C-334 pk. 44 Paraje de los Llanos de Belén, s/n 29717 Arenas 29315 Villanueva de tapia 29550 Ardales Phone: 95 250 90 03 Phone: 95 275 01 22 Phone: 95 245 81 93

S.C.A. OLIV. SANTA RITA S.L.U. ACEITES BARRANCO S.L. RAPUNZEL IBÉRICA PROD. Iglesia, 52 Barriada El Pilar, s/n ECOLÓGICOS 29315 Villanueva de tapia 29210 Cuevas de San Marcos Finca la Torre Phone: 95 275 00 08 29540 Bobadilla LÓPEZ ORTÍZ, FUENSANTA Phone: 95 211 16 19 S.C.A. AGR. NTRA. SRA. NIEVES Paraje "Puente Zahala" Ctra. Cómpeta, km 0,9 29120 Alhaurín El Grande ANGEL MERINO MARTÍN 29770 Torrox Phone: 95 259 57 96 Polígono ind. de Yunquera Phone: 95 253 80 22 29410 Yunquera S.L. ACEITES SANTAMARÍA C Phone: 95 248 29 54 RAFAEL TOLEDO MARÍN Camino de Remanente, 12 El Zao Polígono 2 p-81,95 y 96 29700 Vélez-Málaga S.L. CAÑERO ALFARNATE 29410 Yunquera Phone: 95 250 66 30 Ctra. de Alfarnate a Periana, s/n Phone: 95 248 28 58 29194 Alfarnate S.L. RIOLIVA Phone: 95 275 90 71 S.C.A. VIRGEN DE LA OLIVA Pol. Ind. La Amarguilla Ctra. Alameda, 17 29530 Alameda S.C.A. ACEITES SIERRA DE YEGUAS 29532 Mollina Phone: 95 271 11 44 Ctra. Sierra de Yeguas-La Rosa, km.3 Phone: 95 274 01 00 29328 Sierra de Yeguas S.L. NTRA. SRA. DEL CARMEN Phone: 95 211 10 90 S.C.A. AGRÍCOLA DE CÓMPETA Avd. Torrox, 43 Avd. de Torrox, 33 29754 Cómpeta 29754 Cómpeta Phone: 95 240 74 28 Phone: 95 251 63 01

140 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olive Oil: cooperatives Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil OIL-PRODUCING REGIONS Tejeda and Almijara Mountains. These mountains shelter the Axarquía from the northern cold, surrounding it in a mild climate all year round. Thus, There are three distinct olive growing it does not come as a surprise that many civilizations, as different as the regions in the province of Málaga, with phoenicians, the romans or the arabs, have settled here. different topographic and climatic characteristics, and therefore producing At the same time, the uneven terrain and the ravines that make different olive cultivars: Axarquía or the communication so difficult have favoured the centuries-old isolation of the Eastern Region, Antequera or the people who live there, and who have thus kept their old customs, traditions Northern Region, and the West, and culture intact over time. The Axarquía population is scattered in some comprising Ronda, Guadalteba and the 30 villages and towns, most of them with less than 1,000 inhabitants. The Western seacoast. most important population centres have In the outskirts of the city of Málaga, traditionally been Vélez-Málaga, near the including La Hoya and The Mountains, sea, and Colmenar, on the border. olive trees are rather scarce, but they are In the Axarquía, there are 15,000 hectares a testimony to the abundance of olive cultivated with over 1 million olive trees, 60% orchards in the past. of them of the verdial cultivar, 22% of the nevadillo cultivar, and a bare 5% of the REGION 1: AXARQUÍA OR THE EASTERN REGION picual cultivar. Hence, verdial is the king of olive trees in the region; its name comes La Axarquía es una extensa comarca malagueña situada en la Costa del from the colour of its olives ("verde" is the Sol Oriental. El topónimo Axarquía o Ajarquía, como muchos de los Spanish word for "green"), which keep it elementos culturales y económicos que la caracterizan, tienen raíz árabe, longer than other varieties. lengua en la que significa 'El Oriente'. Verdial olive trees are strong, mid-sized and El terreno es de naturaleza arcillosa, ondulado y abrupto, sin llegar a ser quite productive trees, although their vecería agreste, y está formado por cerros y colinas que bajan hasta el mar desde is quite marked, i.e. they have cycles of las sierras del Jobo, Camarolos, Alhama, Tejeda y Almijara. SonAxarquía alternating good and bad years in terms of yield. is a large region on Málaga's Eastern Costa del Sol. The toponym comes Because of the mountainous terrain, olive trees have to be grown in from Arabic, and it means "the East". In fact, there are many Arabic traditional ways in this region. Besides, as smallholdings are the prevailing elements in this region's culture and economy. form of farming, mechanical farming and picking methods are not profitable. This is why we can still see teams of mules in some places, The soil is clayey, rolling and steep, without being wild. It is dotted with hills ploughing the fields or carrying the crops in their backs. and mountains reaching the sea from the Jobo, Camarolos, Alhama, 141 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olive Oil: Oil-pproducing regions Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Axarquía produces between 6,000 and REGION 2: ANTEQUERA OR THE NORTHERN REGION 8,000 hectares of oil. The region has 19 oil mills, 14 of them being cooperatives and 5, industrial mills. The main olive-growing towns are Alcaucín, Colmenar, Periana, Riogordo, La Viñuela, Arenas, Canillas de Aceituno, Cómpeta, Frigiliana, Sayalonga, Sedella and Torrox.

Why is Axarquía oil so highly-valued? First of all, because the cultivar grown here, which is not to be found in other olive- growing regions, produces a kind of oil with a special smell and taste: the verdial and its twin, the nevaíllo. And it has already been This is the most important oil-producing region in Málaga, since 90% of explained that oils made from a single olive variety are most suitable to the province's olive oil is made here. It is the natural land of the produce extra virgin olive oil. hojiblanco cultivar. Its 23,000 mills, gathered under the name "Hojiblanca" and joined by the mills in the province of Córdoba, are the Secondly, this oil comes from smallholding and limited harvests, and top oil-producing group in the world, in terms of both output and therefore the time elapsed between harvesting and presssing is short, commercialisation. The region has 90,000 hectares of olive orchards, which prevents acidity. which produce an average of 40 million kilos of extra virgin olive oil. The Designation of Origin "Antequera Oil" is a guarantee of quality and a Thirdly, Axarquía oil is sold to consumers directly, so it is not unnecessarily great incentive for olive-growers, who treat their olive with such great transported, subject to temperature changes, or stored. care.

In the region's presses, traditional pressing methods are being replaced There are also some independent cooperatives in some towns (El Cerro with modern centrifugation systems. Some mills (e.g. Alfarnatejo and in Archidona, Guadalhorce in Villanueva del Trabuco), producing and Trapiche) have kept and still use old stone mills, iron watermills or settling selling their own oil. by usind alpechineras.

142 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olive Oil: Oil-pproducing regions Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil The region's climate is semi-continental, with very cold winters and long, hot and dry summers. The soil is very fertile, the land is not too rugged and thus ideal for the cultivation of olive trees. Two clearly differentiated areas can be seen:

Antequera and the neighbouring towns (Campillos, Humilladero, Mollina, Fuente Piedra, Alameda and Sierra de Yeguas). This natural region is plain and protected by the Yeguas Mountains to the north, the Abdalajís Mountains to the South, and the Ronda Plateau to the West. Here, fertile orchards exist side by side with cereal fields and vineyards. Antequera is undergoing economic expansion, which involves farming modernisation and flourishin industrial activity, favoured by its strategic location in Andalusia and its agile communications network. After the serious demographic crisis related to the emigration of the 1970s, the region is now heading the progress experienced by the province of Málaga. And olive oil is one of its main sources of income.

From the historical and cultural point of view, this wide plain which has its Olive trees were planted in meadows that were oak groves until the 17th origin in the Guadalhorce River has been inhabited by many different century. The now stretch over the undulating terrain, since the plains and peoples, who have left their mark and beautiful sights in it. the river banks are used to plant cerals and grow vegetables. The towns located in this area are Villanueva del Rosario, Villanueva del Trabuco, The second big olive-growing area in this region is the north-eastern zone Archidona, Villanueva de Tapia, Villanueva de Algaidas, Cuevas Bajas and (Nororma), adjacent to the provinces of Granada and Córdoba, rougher Cuevas de San Marcos. Antequera's geographic location, which combines than Antequera, with mountains and hollows among which there flow the plains, lakes and wild mountainous zones, favours the existence of a rich Guadalhorce and Genil Rivers. In a natural ravine between the Antequera fauna (including partridges, wild boars, Spanish Ibex, and flamingos), and Granada Meadows, it is surrounded by El Pedroso and Las Arcas which attracts animal lovers and hunters. Mountains (in the central region) and the Gibalto, San Jorge, Jobo and Camarolos Mountains (to the south). Historically, it has always been a transit area in Andalusia, between the Guadalquivir and the Sierra Nevada, and this has given rise to a rich and diverse culture.

143 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olive Oil: Oil-pproducing regions Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil REGION 3: THE GUADALHORCE VALLEY REGION 4: RONDA AND THE SERRANÍA

The Serranía de Ronda is a large region in the province of Málaga, adjacent to the provinces of Cádiz and Seville, with an impressive landscape of valleys, woods and rivers. There are small villages scattered and stting on the hillsides, intertwined with ravines. Surrounded by nature reserves (Grazalema, Alcornocales, and Sierra de las Nieves) and with a continental climate made milder by humidity and heavy rainfalls, the Serranía de Ronda is one of the greatest tourist, landscape and biological reserves in Málaga.

The Guadalhorce Valley is climatically and geologically similar to the The roughness of the land has made communications difficult, an lowlands of the Axarquía. This is probably why the same cultivar, the so the inhabitants have been forced to make great efforts to stick "aloreño" verdial, has prospered in both regions. to subsistence agriculture. And the cultivation of olive trees was, of course, part of their plight. As time went by, however, olive Over the last few decades, olive groves have become smaller, since orchards receded in the mountainous landscape. At present, there farming tasks have mechanised to make olive cultivation profitable. As is are only three mills in the region: two in Ronda and one in Cuevas the case in the Axaquía, olive orchards are here in steep terrain, and thus del Becerro, the latter recently opened. farming can only be done with the help of animals. If one goes up to the Despite its scarcity, the oil produced in this region is top quality Casarabonela or Pizarra plains, olive groves with very little yield or oil. Smallholdings manufacturing ecological olive oil, welcome by abandoned can be seen. locals and visitors. This is the case of the mill in Ronda, where out of the 6 million olives pressed, 12,000 kilos are ecological olives, On the other hand, the Guadalhorce River bank offers flat lands and which yield 2,500 kilos of excellent oil sold in the mill itself. irrigation systems that have favoured the cultivation of citrus fruits and subtropical species at the expense of olive trees. Those olive trees that are still cultivated, however, produce a top-quality oil.

The mild climate contributes to olive early ripening. Therefore, most of the yield is not crushed but hand-picked and sold prepared to be sold as fresh olives.

144 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Olive Oil: Oil-pproducing regions Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil MOORISH OIL ROUTE (Eastern Costa del Sol and Axarquía)

There are so many routes that run around the Eastern Costa del Sol and 4. tOURIST ROUTES the Axarquía and so many places that are worth visiting… If you have to choose just a few, we recommend two routes that pass through olive groves MOORISH OIL ROUTE and take you to two places linked to our olive oil for so many years: Comares (EASTERN COSTA DEL SOL AND AXARQUÍA) and Periana. Travellers will have the opportunity to visit towns that have CENTENARY OLIVE GROVES' ROUTE remained unchanged despite the passing of time and get to know the warmth (MOUNTAINS OF MÁLAGA AND AXARQUÍA) of hospitable and open people. HOJIBLANCO OLIVE GROVES' ROUTE (MOUNTAINS OF MÁLAGA AND ANTEQUERA) The climate, the peace and the beauty of the landscape have attracted numerous VILLAS NUEVAS OIL ROUTE foreigners that, having got to know this corner of the province of Málaga, have (ANTEQUERA) stayed to live and have left the mists and chillyness of their countries far behind. MEADOWS AND MARSHES' OLIVE OIL ROUTE (ANTEQUERA AND GUADALHORCE) With bread and wine you hit the road. And with oil, even the curves seem smoother. ECOLOGICAL OLIVE OIL ROUTE (SERRANÍA DE RONDA) 145 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Moorish olive oil route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil MOORISH OIL ROUTE and agricultural development, it is a ITINERARY: welcoming and hospitable town despite Valle Niza the weight of the changes. Vélez Málaga Benamocarra If you ask for the Aceites Axarquía mill Almáchar there will always be someone who can El Borge show you the way. And if not, the Comares address is Explanada de la Estación, 3. It is a modern mill, although some old You leave Málaga, taking the Mediterranean motorway towards Vélez elements have been conserved as Málaga. On reaching Valle Niza, turn to the left. Before arriving at Cajiz exhibits: the press, the grinding stones… there is the mill called El Molino nº1. It is owned by Jesús Cano Briones Its oil, with a maximum acidity of and produces a million kilos of Extra Virgin Olive oil per year. During the between 0.4 and 0.5 percent, and a total grinding season, between December and March, visitors can follow the production of around a million kilos, is whole process of the milling and observe how the oil comes out and bought, like almost all of that of this deposits in the large containers in which it is stored. All the production is region, by individuals who travel sold directly to the public who make the make the trip there to buy it. If you especially to the mill to get it. have any queries before the visit the telephone number of Jesús Cano Briones is 95 251 46 11. Return to the car, leave Vélez towards the north and make a left that leads you Taking the motorway again, you arrive in a few minutes to the crossroads of to Benamocarra, the place where one of Vélez-Málaga. This city, the traditional commercial and administrative centre Spanish music's great maestros, of Axarquía, with a population of more than 50,000, has some interesting Eduardo Ocón, was born. The name of places that are worth visiting: the Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor (Grand the town and the design of its streets and Saint Mary's Church) in Mudéjar style, transformed into a church in 1489, houses have a Moorish flavour, a that of San Juan (Church of Saint John) and of San Francisco (Church of constant theme that will be repeated Saint Francis). You can also visit the beautiful ermita de la Virgin de los many times in this route. Places of Remedios (chapel of the Virgin of the Remedies), situated on a promontory. interest here are the Plaza del Calvario, There are other buildings that also deserve a look: the Palacio de los the Plaza de la Constitución and the Marqueses de Beniel (Palace of the Marquises of Beniel), the House of Iglesia de Santa Ana (Church of Saint Cervantes, or Del Carmen Theatre. Close to the sea and with great industrial Ann).

146 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Moorish olive oil route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Continuing the route you run into You can also visit the Iglesia de Nuestra Almáchar from which you have an Señora del Rosario (Church of Our Lady excellent view over almost all of Axarquía. of the Rosary) and visit the typical Barrio One of the most exquisite dishes of this del Rinconcillo (Rinconcillo town is the ajoblanco, an unrivalled neighbourhood). After having a drink at gazpacho made with a base of almonds the inn or one of the bars or taverns, or broad beans, garlic and oil. It continue on the same route towards deservedly has a fiesta in its honour, the Fiesta of Ajoblanco, which draws Comares on a road that is slightly thousands of visitors on the first Saturday of September who share out tortuous but surrounded by a landscape hundreds of litres of ajoblanco. Comforted by this gazpacho you can re- that is well worth seeing. start the route, but not without first visiting the Museo de la Pasa (Raisin Museum) and the Iglesia de San Mateo (Church of Saint Matthew). On your route you will pass by Cútar, a beautiful village with around seven Soon, you arrive to El Borge, also know hundred inhabitants and a labyrinth made as "the capital of the raisin". In this town up of narrow streets and corners of a little more than one thousand embellished with flowers and water. The inhabitants, they have recently opened La town derives its name from its interesting Posada del Bandolero (the Bandit's Inn), antique Arab fountain, the word Cútar the house where it is believed the famous meaning "Fountain of Paradise" in Arabic. bandit, nicknamed "El Bizco del Borge" (The cross-eyed man of Borge), was born Then you pass through Benamargosa, a in 1837. This building was once a mill, village in which the traditional cultivation and the grinder has been kept along with of vines, almond and olive trees a few other architectonic elements. combines with new plantations of subtropical products. The Town Council has been the promoter of the museum and inn project. It has six guest rooms with antique furniture and a romantic air, each one bearing the name of one of the members of the gang of "El Bizco del Borge"

147 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Moorish olive oil route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Making a wide curve, the road rises up The restaurant has been set up in the towards the end of this route. Here you old mill. The dining room occupies the have the opportunity of admiring the former machinery room of which they beautiful panorama featuring the blue have conserved the stone mill, the of the sea and the ochre dotted with presses, the hydraulic pumps and the green of the farms of Axarquía. Finallo oil tanks that are sitting on the ground, you arrive to Comares, a natural covered with a transparent and bastion where Omar ben Hafsun and illuminated pane of glass. the armies of the Umayyads from Córdoba fought, and the Castle, which The cellar is next to the restaurant, crowns the highest rocks of the town, where the oil was kept in earthenware bears witness to those battles. jars and the wine, in barrels. The place is decorated with utensils and In the main plaza of the town there is El instruments related with oil and wine Molino de los Abuelos. The mill was making, and is used as a bar or a built at the end of the 19th century and room for celebrations. it was still in use until mid 20th century century. To prevent the building and its installations from ruining, Those who stay the night can wake up as has happened with so many other similar to a miller's breakfast: orange juice, constructions, the Hermoso family has conserved bread with oil, coffee and homemade this heritage as much as possible. A few years ago, jam. they started the restoration of the mill and the house, turning them into a restaurant and lodging. The part of the house functioning as a hotel consists of five double rooms and three apartments with views to the plaza, the interior patio or the immense valley that is visible from these heights.

148 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Moorish olive oil route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil MOORISH OIL ROUTE

3 El Molino de los Abuelos

COMARES BENAMOCARRA La Tahona, one of the towers The only monument this of the Castle of Comares, is village boasts is the Church VÉLEZ - MÁLAGA worth visiting. of Saint Ann, built in the Vélez is the largest and 16th century. most populated town of Axarquía. It has many villages: Torre del mar, Benajarafe, Triana, Trapiche, Almayate, Cajiz and Chilches, among others.

EL BORGE Borge is the village of raisins.

2 "Aceites Axarquía" mill

1 "El Molino nº VALLE NIZA 1" mill It is located 3 km from Benajarafe. It is SIGNOS CONVENCIONALES historically important due to its stone Comienzo de la Ruta ALMÁCHAR church used by Mozarabic hermits Fin de la Ruta The monument visitors cannot miss between the 8th and 10th century. is the Parish of Saint Matthew, in Itinerary sugerido central Almáchar. 05 km.

149 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Moorish olive oil route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil CENTENARY OLIVE GROVES' ROUTE Although on the way you have to deal with numerous bends, this route (Mountains of Málaga and Axarquía) takes you to the Fuente de La Reina (Queen's Fountain) and the Puerto del León (Lion's Port), almost a thousand metres above sea level, which ITINERARY: afford magnificent views of Málaga and its bay. On sunny days, you can Málaga see the coast of Africa. We recommend this winding road because visitors Colmenar will have the opportunity to travel through beautiful landscapes and enjoy Riogordo unusual panoramas. The road that leads within this Natural Park leaves Mondrón from Fuente de la Reina. Periana Alfarnatejo The first stop on this oil route is made at Alfarnate Lagar de Torrijos. The access to this old press is about two kilometres from Puerto For this journey, that takes you to the most unique places of oil, you leave del León, in the direction to Colmenar, on a Málaga by the old road of the Mountains. The peaks and ravines that were forested road that you take on the left hand previously fertile vineyards and extensive olive groves are now populated side of the main road. Although it is well with pines that were planted to avoid the terrible floods of the signalled, visitors should pay attention and not get too distracted by the Guadalmedina river. Olive trees, now barely present, shared the land with beautiful views of the Axarquía, the Mediterranean sea and Sierra Tejeda. vines and almond trees, the sustenance and the way of life for the locals. Partío de Verdiales is very close, and the poem reads: This road, although a little narrow, is paved and runs boxed in between the exuberant vegetation of the Montes de Málaga Natural Park. At present, (Partío de Verdiales, the building belongs to the Department for the Environment of the partío de muchas viñas, Government of Andalusia, which has restored and transformed it. During entre pitas y olivares the first half of the 19th century until the arrival of the phylloxera that wiped estoy queriendo a una niña out the vineyards, it was the press where they made the famous wines y no me la da su mare.) from the hills. After substituting the cultivation of vines for olive trees, two wings were added to the building, in which they installed the olive oil mill, Verdiales, oh, my foe, the press and the cellar. a place plentiful of vines, among pitas, olive groves, The construction is a clear example of the typical houses of the Mountains I love a girl divine, of Málaga and also a good example of the economic boom of the first half but her mother won't let go. of the 19th century.

150 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Centenary olive groves’ route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil In the interior they have conserved the characteristic architectonic you travel through the western part of, in search of the places in which they elements of the agricultural life to which the building was dedicated. The produce high quality olive oil obtained from olives of verdiales, nevadillos first thing that attracts our attention is a perfectly conserved beam that was or picuales. The most cultivated variety is the verdial, from which an oil that in use in the past. In the season of the wine harvest it was used to press is distinguished by its aroma and its sweet and light palate is extracted. the grapes of the local vineyards. After taking the last bend of this now quiet road, you arrive at Colmenar, You will also see a mill there, which was installed after the phylloxera crisis the town that was the centre of this zone, and is now a quiet place, isolated and the changes in cultivation made in order to maintain an agricultural but very welcoming. economy. Famous for being the birthplace of the With the exception of the alpechineras, which you will see outside the wine of the hills, in culinary terms, its building, the rest of the elements are in comforting plato de los Montes (dish the old premises, enlarged after the of the Mountains) stands out: cold change of cultivation and the introduction cuts, eggs and potatoes all fried in its of the olive trees. The oil mill, of three magnificent oil. From the marriage rollers powered by animal traction, dates between its wine and its cold meats, back to the mid 19th century. The press the Day of Must and Cold Meats was is made of piquera or black fig and is not born, which is celebrated a few days as old as the mill. It is constructed in iron after Christmas. and steel from the factory of Ruperto Heaton, located in the Huelin You leave Colmenar towards neighbourhood, in Málaga. The water Riogordo. To get there, you take the boiler was also made at the end of the road that leads to Vélez-Málaga and 19th century. runs along a fertile valley bordered by olive groves, fig trees and almond Lagar de Torrijos is open to the public at trees. The town is situated on a hill the weekends. that looks towards the La Cueva river. Many flour and oil mills were Go back along the road and you will be constructed here to make use of the again on to the main road. You are force of the river's waters and some of entering the Axarquía, which in this route them are still standing there.

151 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Centenary olive groves’ route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil To learn further details, you can to visit the Museo Etnográfico Municipal (City Ethnographic Museum).

The present mill of Riogordo is called the Olivarera San Jacinto and it produces excellent extra virgin olive oil, bottled under the designation Rioliva.

To enjoy one of the most interesting can also buy oil cakes, magdalenas, mantecados, spectacles of Andalucían folklore, we palillos, borrachuelos… all typical cakes from this recommend that visitors see the village. representation of the Paso de la Pasión, a popular staging of the Leaving Riogordo you head towards Periana. Soon Passion of Christ that takes place on you will start to see on both sides of the road ancient Maundy Thursday and Good Friday olive trees, with wide trunks and capricious forms. every year. You are arriving to the village of Mondrón.

On September 7th, they celebrate the Just to the side of the road there is the Olivarera San Noche de las Candelas or the Fiestas José Artesano. In the same mill, which has 340 del Candil (Night of Candles), in which members and produces 300,000 litres of olive oil they make bonfires and competitions from its 60,000 olive trees, you can buy extra virgin of candles. olive oil of verdial or gold type. The cold extraction, the selection of the olives, the daily grinding and the Amongst the traditional dishes, we rigorous quality control make it one of the most should recommend the red pepper, valued olive oils for lovers of a good palate, so the chickpea stew, the green broad families from all around come to buy it. Together with bean gazpacho and the porra (similar the modern mill, they still keep the old mill with the to ajoblanco with the addition of hydraulic press, stone mill and animal traction as well tomato, ham and boiled eggs). You as the old cellar.

152 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Centenary olive groves’ route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil And if you want to try another culinary gem, don't leave without tasting the You should visit the Ermita de Monsalud (Chapel of Monsalud), the Iglesia magnificent goat milk cheese. de Santa Ana (Church of Saint Ann) and enjoy a stroll around the little streets of this mountain town. Just a stones throw from here we run into Periana. Of particular interest here are the Iglesia de San Isidro Labrador (Church of Saint Isidore the We have left the best of the route till last, the Venta de Alfarnate (Alfarnate Farmer), the Lavadero de la Cruz (Sink of the Cross) and the Arab Baths. Inn), a few minutes away from the urban centre. Apparently, it was constructed in 1690. Some experts believe that the Venta could have been Every year, the last Sunday of March, thousands of locals and visitors take the origin for the town, as it was an obligatory stop for travellers from the part in the Day of Olive Oil in which they taste the extra virgin olive oil that coast to the interior and where they would change horses. The story goes is produced in its co-operative, San Isidro. Equally famous are the peaches that a royal messenger was robbed of its letters by Luis Candelas. There of Periana, a true synthesis of fruit that is attractive for its colour, its touch are those that say that the bandit was kept in custody in this inn. Visitors and its flavour, and that deserves a holiday in its honour, the fair of the can see the room that served as his dungeon. Another bandit that passed Melocotón (peach), which attracts thousands of visitors during the third through here was José María el Tempranillo, about whom there are also weekend of August. many legends that circulate by word of mouth in the form of popular romances. The end of your trip takes you to Alfarnate. To get there, you take a road surrounded by abrupt crags and daring gorges, and in a few minutes, after As time to eat has come, we recommend the typical dishes of the town: passing the Puerto del Sol at 1,100 metres above sea level, you arrive at setas de cardo al ajillo (mushrooms with garlic), chivo frito (fried goat), the little town of Alfarnatejo, a refuge for bandits during the romantic 19th migas (dish prepared with bread, garlic and olive oil), chicken… the century. From the town you can enjoy the views of the Desfiladero del Río famous bread rolls of father Carrero come from Alfarnate. Sabar (Sabar river ravine) and the impressive Tajo de Gómer (Gómer Ravine).

Just 3.5 kilometres from Alfarnatejo is Alfarnate, a mountain town famous for its chickpeas, with which they make their famous dish, seasoned with olive oil. The production of oil is not abundant but it is of great quality.

153 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Centenary olive groves’ route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil CENTENARY OLIVE GROVES' ROUTE

3 Almazara 4 Venta de "Olivarera San José Alfarnate Artesano"

ALFARNATE Alfarnate is near the border and ALFARNATEJO near Puerto de los Alhazores. The The most outstanding monument first human settlements date back in this village is the Iglesia to prehistoric times. Parroquial del Santo Cristo de Cabrilla (Parish Church of Saint Christ of Cabrilla). RIOGORDO During Holy Week, on Good Friday MONDRÓN and Holy Saturday, Riogordo The olive oil museum is represents Christ's Passion. Around located in the oil village of 400 people take place in the Mondrón. The museum was enacting. created by the Cooperativa Olivarera de San José Artesano, whose aim was to preserve the olive-oil-making old custom to which the village owes its fame. 2 Almazara "Olivarera San Jacinto"

PERIANA Visitors can go on horseback tours and there they will enjoy some of the most breathtaking views of Axarquía.

COLMENAR SIGNOS CONVENCIONALES The archaeological sites found Comienzo de la Ruta in several places in the village indicate that there were MÁLAGA Fin de la Ruta prehistoric settlements in the The historic district of the city boasts Itinerary sugerido area. 1 Lagar de Torrijos almost all the monuments and tourist 05 attractions, except for the historic km. gardens, which are in the outskirts. 154 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Centenary olive groves’ route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil HOJIBLANCO OLIVE GROVES' ROUTE Regarding its festivities, two events are outstanding -the Corpus, which (Mountains of Málaga and Antequera) lasts for several days, when streets are ornamented with flowers and altars, and the Cante Grande Festival, a festival of flamenco singing, with The Antequera region is the most important olive-growing area in the the participation of the most famous cantaores (flamenco singers). province. We suggest two different routes to visit it with ease. The first one Recommended foods include: the plato de los Montes, rabbit sautéed in will lead us to Antequera (the city of Torcal) where we can visit the Oil garlic, chivo en pepitoria (kid stew), the pipeo (dish made with broad Museum; the other one goes through the North-Eastern area districts. beans, almonds, and vegetables), the migas (dish prepared with stale bread, oil, garlic and salt), the gazpacho or the olla de la era (stew with ITINERARY: chick peas, pumpkin, aubergine, haricot beans and French beans). Among Casabermeja many exquisite homemade desserts, Villanueva de Cauche oil cakes are worth noting. Antequera Alameda Leaving Casabermeja, a few kilometres away you will find If we start from Málaga, we will take the road N-331 to Granada. This road Villanueva de Cauche on the right, a has been traced following the Guadalmedina River bed, surrounded by core of houses on a headland close to hills that used to be fertile vineyards before the phylloxera took hold of the road. It is a small village in them. Now the slopes are populated with almond trees, carob trees and Antequera, with only two streets. scattered olive groves. Apart from the interesting Roman remains of nearby Aratispi, you can About 20 km away is Casabermeja. Its modern olive oil mill keeps see the house of the Marquises of producing oils that are famous over the whole region: Verdiblanca and Cauche. As an anecdote, the Oleobio, an ecological oil. If you have time, you could visit the cemetery, neighbours in this village do not own one of the most curious in Andalusia due to the constructions crowning the the houses they live in, since all of tombs, a cemetery that was declared a Historic-Artistic monument in 1980, them belong to the marquises. Every when the Torre Zambra, a watchtower built by the Arabs in the 13th year, the dwellers gave the marquises century, was also declared of artistic interest. Other interesting places are a laying hen so as to have the right to the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Socorro (Church of Our Lady of continue occupying the houses. Assistance), with its monumental tower built in the 16th century, and the old quarter , where some of the typically Andalusian houses still stand.

155 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Hojiblanco olive groves' route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil On arriving in Puerto de las Pedrizas, we take the N-331 to Antequera. At the end of this interesting visit, you will enter the Hojiblanca central Whether you go down the ancient Cuesta del Romeral or keep on the road, offices, a cooperative that coordinates and distributes oil produced by after a turn, the splendorous Vega de Antequera will suddenly appear some thirty olive oil mills in Northern Málaga and Southern Córdoba. At the before your eyes. This is an olive land par excellence, where one of the offices, you can see the prizes awarded to the olive oil produced in the most renowned varieties of Andalusian olive trees is grown: the region and purchase bottles of one of the best extra virgin olive oils in the "hojiblanco" olive tree. world. Promotion and advertising of the excellent qualities of the different types of While not yet entering Antequera, you will follow up to the A-92 and, on oil produced by Hojiblanca are achieved with the collaboration of the great reaching the Córdoba detour, will turn towards Antequera. A few Spanish master chef Carlos Arguiñano and worldwide-famous actor kilometres away are the offices of the largest oil cooperative in the world: Antonio Banderas. Hojiblanca, a place you must stop by in this olive oil route. There you will find the Olive Oil Museum, which reproduces an olive oil mill manor from To complete this interesting day, you can go to the neighbouring city of the 17th century. Antequera, which offers a varied and abundant cultural offers. You can either choose the route of the historic dolmens of Menga, Viera and El Romeral or tour the religious sites: the Real Colegiata de Santa María la Mayor, whose 500 anniversary was celebrated in 2004, churches as San Sebastián (St. Sebastian), San Juan y San Pedro (St. John and St. Peter), del Carmen, de los Remedios (of the Remedies), Santiago (St. James), Madre de Dios (Mother of God), San José (St. Joseph), Belén (Bethlehem), and San Juan de Dios (St. John of God), as well as the Iglesia Real del Monasterio de San Francisco (Royal Church of the Monastery of St. Francis), a church that has been declared a national monument.

There is another tour that leads you to the magnificent aristocratic homes of the city. One of the most famous, the Nájera Palace, has been turned By means of the extensive information in explanatory panels, visitors go into a Municipal Museum. You must not miss the house of the Marquis of through the history of the olive and the methods used to obtain oils from its Peña; the house of the Marquise of the Escalonias; the Colarte Estate, origins in far Egypt, its subsequent expansion through the Mediterranean nowadays the Casa Museo de la Diputación Provincial (Museum of the by the Phoenicians, the Roman era and the Middle Ages, to the traditional Provincial Government); the house of the Baron of Sabasona; the house grinding methods in use prior to the modern machinery. of the Marquis of Villadarías; or the Serrailler estate.

156 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Hojiblanco olive groves' route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil We can finish the urban tour But if you have time (otherwise, you should find some), you can leave by approaching the Bullring, Antequera towards Córdoba, and a few kilometres away turn on the detour featuring the Taurine to Alameda. A few hundred metres from there you will find the Hamlet of Museum. And if you still San Benito. have some time to spare, you can travel to the splendid Surrounded by olive trees, adjacent to Vega de Antequera and framed by world of whimsical shapes the Torcal, this restaurant will take you to a carefully preserved rural offered by the rocks at the Andalusian atmosphere. To that end, a 17th-century building has been Torcal. At the Convento de recovered, preserving the traditional elements that give personality to the las Descalzas (Discalced Andalusian popular architecture: tiles, doors, floors, windows, bars, Nuns' Convent) there is fireplace… The exterior is a patio with cobble stone floor which leads to another museum that is an old gate that opens to the restaurant that occupies the two storeys of worth visiting. the house. If it is cold, the fireplace will be lit to take the copa from -embers in braziers that heat people sitting at a mesa camilla (small table) with the In order not to get lost and to corresponding refajo (an elegant tablecloth). make the most of your time, the best thing to do is call at Gastronomy gathers the most typical dishes in the area: salads, porras, the Tourist Information Office, migas, vegetable stew, rabbit, pork or sirloin with asparagus, and gachas where useful information will (porridge) or bienmesabe for dessert. In a separate building that used to be kindly provided. be a chapel, there is the Museo de Usos y Costumbres (Museum of Traditions and Customs), where interesting objects are carefully exhibited. After seeing so many things, you will probably feel hungry, Outside, in a vast esplanade, you will find many farming equipment, but there is no problem in machinery and objects used in agricultural tasks, as well as many mills this, for Antequera's gastronomy offers an assortment of dishes that will from old olive oil manufacturing establishments in a sort of open-air make your choice quite difficult. Two impossible-to-miss suggestions are a museum. The place, the food, the warmth of its owners, and the peaceful main course and a dessert: the porra antequerana and bienmesabe atmosphere will certainly arise the visitor's wish to return there for good (meaning it tastes good), whose recipes are explained in the gastronomic reasons. guide.

157 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Hojiblanco olive groves' route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil HOJIBLANCO OLIVE GROVES' ROUTE

2 Hamlet of San Benito

ALAMEDA The figure of the Andalusian bandit, which aroused so much interest in the past, is symbolised by José VILLANUEVA DE CAUCHE María Pelagio Hinojosa, known as The Marquessate of Cauche "El Tempranillo". was founded on the ground where nowadays lies the municipal district of Villanueva 1 Olive Oil Museum de Cauche.

CASABERMEJA The Iglesia Parroquial de Nuestra Señora del Socorro (Parish Church of Our Lady of Assistance) is the main monument of Casabermeja and ANTEQUERA the most visible one. It offers a true art and monument treasure, particularly at the old SYMBOLS quarter. Beginning of the route End of the route Suggested route 05

km.

158 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Hojiblanco olive groves' route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil VILLAS NUEVAS OIL ROUTE About three kilometres ahead you will leave the road and take the detour (Antequera) to Villanueva del Rosario, a 3,000 inhabitant-village originally named Puebla del Saucedo due to the abundance of willows ("sauce" means ITINERARY: willow in Spanish) by the rivers and streams. From the road you can see Villanueva del Rosario the natural fortress Peñón de Solís, where archaeologists place the Villanueva del Trabuco Roman city of Ulisis. Salinas Archidona Villanueva de Algaidas Alameda

To guide the visitor coming from Málaga or from elsewhere, the starting point for this route will be Puerto de la Pedrizas, the natural entrance to the Guadalhorce Valley, where you will find the first two towns in this route: Rosario and Trabuco.

From this port you will take the junction that leads to Granada. The first thing If you wish to make a stop, you will be welcomed by the dwellers' kindness, you will notice is a change in the the tasty confectionery of Horno de Teodoro, and the well-known virgin landscape: a valley will appear fringed olive oil. If you want to buy it, before reaching the town, you will see a sign by mountain chains to the right, with reading Cooperativa San Juan. It is open Monday through Saturday. magnificent grasslands and leafy holm oak and pine forests, source of brooks To admire the splendour of the hills surrounding the village, you should and springs that pour into the take the natural grassland path of Hondoneros, and see the source of the Guadalhorce river. In the labouring land, Cerezo river from the watching point where the Virgen del Rosario Chapel olive trees spread in fertile fields; along stands. On summer evenings it is easy to see the ibexes go down and the river banks there are forests, gather around the clear waters. vegetable gardens and patchwork-like rectangular fields where cereals swing In the first week of August, the summer festivities are held and heifers are in the breeze. released in the streets.

159 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Villas Nuevas oil route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Just one league away, 5.5 kilometres, other way, a bit longer, is more comfortable for the traveller and will lead you will find the prosperous village of you to Salinas. Villanueva del Trabuco, where the Guadalhorce river rises, the largest If you are not in a hurry, you can take the Los Molinillos road, named after river in the province of Málaga. You the steep places where there used to be old flour and olive oil mills should not miss the beautiful Plaza del ("molinillos" means small mills in Spanish). If you want to do some Prado with its ever flowing Fuente de trekking, you can go through the Hoz los Tres Caños (Fountain of the Three de Marín, a sharp narrowness leading Pipes). In other square, you will find to Vega de Archidona and wander for the church of Nuestra Señora de los several kilometres between slopes Dolores (Our Lady of Pains). Other with a brook running at the bottom. religious sites are the chapels of San Juan (St. John), San Isidro (St. Now you get to Achidona, a city that Isidore), San Antonio (St. Anthony) stretches over the slopes of Sierra de and Virgen del Puente (Virgin of the Gracias and del Conjuro. Its Bridge). maximum splendour was achieved during the Arab ruel, when it was the In the public squares you can see the grinds and stones of the ancient main city of Cora del Rayo. Proofs of olive oil mills turned into pieces of open-air museums. To state it briefly, its past Muslim greatness are the wall and the remains of the castle only two dishes of the traditional gastronomy are highlighted: the guisillo overlooking the city, the fertile lowland and the whole environment. In this de San José (San José stew) and the papandúas, typical food for Easter watchtower and on the old mosque, the chapel dedicated to the Virgen de also named papuecas in Villanueva de Tapias, parpuchas in Algaidas and Gracia (Virgin of Grace), Patron of the town and the region was built. Its tortitas de bacalao (cod cakes) in Villanueva del Rosario. festivity is celebrated on August 15.

Just as in other villages in the region, one of the most expected days of the Archidona has a rich historic-artistic heritage, and recommended for all year is April 25, San Marcos (St. Mark) festivity, when all the people in town visitors are: Plaza Ochavada, an architectural gem of the 18th century, the take part in a pilgrimage to the Fuente de los Cien Caños (Fountain of the churches of Santa Ana (St. Ann), el Nazareno (the Nazarene), and La One Hundred Pipes) in the slope of Sierra de San Jorge. Victoria (the Victory), and the Convento de las Mínimas, where the nuns make mouth-watering confectionery. Through a wooden revolving window, There are two ways to reach the next destination, Archidona: the shorter you can ask the nun at the door for a small box of sugary buns flavoured one is the Los Molinillos road, a narrow mountain road with many turns; the with almonds that are called mostachones.

160 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Villas Nuevas oil route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil There are many bars and two or three You will have to cross the road that restaurants to go for tapas or a meal, links Antequera with Córdoba, and a where you can try the viandas (hot few kilometres away you will find the fitter with thistle mushrooms, guisillo town, on the border between the San José, porra, or a plain muffin) provinces of Málaga and Córdoba. dressed or fried in good olive oil. You Many of its houses are good can buy bottles of extra virgin olive oil examples of typical Andalusian at any grocery store or at the bar you popular architecture. At the main choose to have a drink accompanied square is a beautiful fountain dating with exquisite tapas. back to the 18th century. Other remarkable buildings are the Iglesia After leaving Arichonda, we cross the de la Inmaculada Concepción A-92 expressway and head for (Church of the Immaculate Villanueva de Algaidas, the lands Conception) and the Vicarage, a bathed by the Genil river. Near beautiful site built in the 18th century Villanueva de Algaidas, an Arab name in Baroque style. meaning "the forest", you will see the ruins of a Convento de los But as you will probably be willing to Franciscanos (Franciscan Monastery), eat, you should go to Posada de José with a Cave Church next to it. On one María El Tempranillo (an inn), at a of the main streets in the village you Museum-House from the 18th will find the Berrocal Museum, whose new building is under construction. century, where you will be able to The Necrópolis de los Alcaides (Keepers' Necropolis) is very interesting follow the steps of this famous bandit. from an archaeological point of view. Taking advantage of the strategic location of this town as an A few names from the local gastronomy are worth remembering: unavoidable passage for salmorejo, ajoblanco, relleno and gachas de mosto. stagecoaches, El Tempranillo caught travellers by surprise and, gallantly, Always walking among green olive orchards and neatly cared fields, we took their belongings away in a kind advance towards the end of this route: Alameda. fashion. His mortal remains rest in the town church.

161 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Villas Nuevas oil route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil VILLAS NUEVAS OIL ROUTE

2 Inn of José María el Tempranillo

SALINAS ALAMEDA Near the expressway linking The Andalusian bandit, Málaga with Granada, Salinas whose figure aroused so keeps its traditional Andalusian much interest in the past, style. is here symbolised by José María Pelagio Hinojosa, known as "El Tempranillo".

VILLANUEVA DEL TRABUCO The Parish Church of Our Lady of Pains is the most outstanding monument in this village.

1 Cooperativa San Juan

VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS The August Fair is highly praised by SYMBOLS local people, who participate in the Beginning of the route different events closed with a popular VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO festival. ARCHIDONA In a place like this, you should End of the route Archidona's gastronomy has typical do some trekking. Suggested route dishes: porra, cazuela moruna, olla and 05

potato casserole. km.

162 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Villas Nuevas oil route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil MEADOWS AND MARSHES' OLIVE OIL ROUTE (meaning "humiliating" in Spanish), (Antequera and Guadalhorce) derives from the following legend: the place where today sits a ITINERARY: commemorative cross, Infante Don Mollina Fernando "humiliated" himself, he Humilladero kissed a sword swearing that he Fuente Piedra would not sheathe it until he had Sierra Yeguas conquered the nearby village of Campillos Antequera. The rest of the knights Teba who were with him, kneeled and took Ardales the same oath. Carratraca Casarabonela Fuente Piedra comes next, a village well known for its healing waters since In this tour, you will visit some villages located along the Guadalhorce river times immemorial (an inscription in flow, from meadows and rolling hills where Mollina, Humilladero and Latin dating back to the Roman period Fuente Piedra are located to the highest point, Teba, and then you will refers to the waters' healing descend again in your way to Málaga, always following the river's course. properties related, for instance, to the The Guadalhorce river runs along ravines and gullies and it passes by cure for kidney stones). Today it is attractive villages, such as Ardales, Carratraca or Casarabonela. well known for its location on the shore of one of the most appealing Take the motorway that goes from Málaga towards Antequera. Near lakeside areas of the Iberian Antequera, take the A-92 to Campillos. After a few kilometres, you will find Peninsula, Laguna Salada. You will Mollina, a prosperous village in whose church sits the Virgen de la Oliva be able to see pink flamingos, (Virgin of the Olive), donated in 1687 by Bishop Alonso de Santo Tomás. slender-billed gulls, ducks, cranes… Other interesting places in the village are the Convento de la Ascensión Near the lagoon, and going through olive orchards sprinkled with many- (Convent of the Ascension), the Mausoleo de la Capuchina (Capuchin's hundred-year-old holm oaks, you will reach Sierra de Yeguas, near Sierra Mausoleum) and the "Castellum" de Santillán (Santillán Castle). de los Caballos, a mountain range which separates the meadow of the Guadalhorce river from the countryside in the province of Seville. Crossing the motorway, we will find Humilladero, well known for its olive oil and delicious home-made cold meats. The village's name, Humilladero

163 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Meadows and marshes' olive oil Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Presently we head for Campillos, a From Teba, take the road to Ardales. Drive along one kilometre and you charming place, well known for its good will arrive at Molino de las Pilas, a 19th century country house remodelled quality leather goods. Its most important to serve as a hotel and a restaurant. All the original rooms have been kept, building is the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora especially the architectonic elements typical of Andalusian buildings: del Reposo (Our Lady of Rest Church), whitewashed walls, wooden beams, stone, grilles, doors, windows… built in the 16th century. The restaurant is housed in the mill, so that the patrons enjoy the place's Some three miles away, you will see Teba, a village situated on a rocky hill. delicious dishes and, at the same time, they can appreciate all the parts of The first building you will make out is the Estrella Castle, an impressive a century-old olive-oil mill. The machinery has been kept as if time has not construction combining Roman, Arab and Christian elements. gone by. The room is "decorated" with a 20 m long press beam. The ground has the same stones over which so many generations of olive- In the Roman time, this village was called Attegua. According to historians, pickers have walked, the large earthenware jars still keep the smell of the it was the stage on which the faction that supported Julius Caesar fought oil they had been filled with long ago, and the stones of the old mill show the Pompey party. From the castle, remains of its last milling. you will delight in the panoramic views of the Serranía de Ronda to the west This amazing restaurant offers traditional dishes. Its specialities are meat and the meadows and rivers of and stews made with a magnificent olive oil, and indeed, the restaurant Guadalteba to the southeast. The has a variety of quality wines in its cellar. most interesting architectural works are the Ermita de Nuestro Padre The peaceful atmosphere of the Jesús Nazareno (Our Father Jesus of place invites to rest. You can stay at Nazareth Chapel), the façade of the the guest rooms, which were the old Casa Condal de la Emperatriz owners' chambers. The hotel has six Eugenia de Montijo (Count's double rooms with bathroom, Residence of Empress Eugenia de heating and telephone. In three of Montijo), the Palacete del Marqués de the rooms there is a fireplace. Greñina (Mansion of Marquis of Greñina), la Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Carmen (Our Lady of Carmen Chapel) and the Iglesia de Santa Cruz Real (Royal Holy Cross Church).

164 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Meadows and marshes' olive oil Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Maybe you will like to stay one night at From Ardales, going down to the Valley of the Guadalhorce river, you will this incredible hotel and go to Ardales arrive at Carratraca. This small village, with a population of 1,000, is well the following morning. You can take known for its sulphur water, used to cure many skin conditions. The story the shortest way, but you'd better take goes that Carratraca means "mark cleaning" in Arabic. There is a famous the road that goes along the edge of thermal bath to which the name might refer, since this bath was already the marshes, with the mountains to known for its healing properties since Roman times. And the patron virgin one side and the ponds to the other, of the place is the Our Lady of Health. There is a church honouring this and so enjoy the view of a terrific virgin. If you have enough time you can buy delicious cakes in the local landscape. If you take this road, you sweet shop, such as oil cakes, butter doughnuts or almond cookies. can visit the ruins of Bobastro. Driving a bit farther, in Casarabonela, It was in Muslim Spain, more you will reach the Antigua Venta de specifically during Umar ibn Hafsun's San Antonio (Old St. Anthony's Inn), revolt, when decisive historical events one of those inns where travellers used took place in Bobastro. This famous to stop by so as to rest and let their leader, born to a Visigoth earl, was a horses rest as well. The building dates threat to the emir in Córdoba. He back to the 18th century. It has been settled his fortified headquarters in refurbished and turned into a Bobastro. When he died, in 917, the restaurant. The rooms, the furniture rebellion led by this heroic leader of and the architectonic elements are the the resistance to Córdoba's hegemony typical of the Andalusian homes. The collapsed. His courageous deeds dishes on the menu are also typical of appear in works by Romantic writers. Andalusia: eggplants and honey, orange and cod salad, gazpacho, Other interesting places are the Iglesia ajoblanco or porra antequerana. de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios (Our Lady of Remedies Church, the Peña Castle, the Museum, the Agitanes Ravine or the Ardales Cave.

165 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Meadows and marshes' olive oil Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Next stop: Casarabonela, a true labyrinth made up of white houses rising Local gastronomy is based on a series of dishes that can be eaten all the on the hill side. Surrounded by olive orchards, fig trees and cultivated year round, such as stew, rabbit au garlic, sopa perota (a soup similar to fields, Casarabonela still keeps the marriage of Moorish and Christian gazpacho with clams), pipeo (a vegetable dish with broad beans), sopa de elements, typical of many villages in the province of Málaga. The most puchero (vegetable and meat soup). We suggest that you should not leave representative buildings of this style are the Iglesia de Santiago (St. without buying some olive oil bottles and table olives jars. If you like sweet James's Church) and the Ermita de Vera Cruz (Vera Cruz Chapel). food, buy some wine doughnuts or oil cakes.

The Fiesta de los Rondeles, celebrated every 12 December, is closely On the way to Málaga, there is a place that should be visited: Molino de la linked with oil and work in the mills. Paca (Paca Mill), near El Valle del Sol, in the outskirts of Alhaurin El Grande. The building has two mills, one is more than 120 years old, the It is worth visiting the nice Mizos Mill, still in perfect shape. other is more modern, and both still operating. Many visitors who want to see how the mills work come to the place. They can also know how the olives are processed and delight in looking at the olive oil stream coming out.

You can taste the product and then visit the exhibition, buy some bottles of extra virgin olive oil and other regional products. Moreover, the owner of the mill organises a peculiar contest held in the so-called "olivedrome". The winner of the contest is the person who, after eating an olive oil, can spit the bone farther.

166 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Meadows and marshes' olive oil Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil MEADOWS AND MARSHES' OLIVE OIL ROUTE

1 Molino de las Pilas (Pilas Mill)

FUENTE DE PIEDRA SIERRA DE YEGUAS The nice nearby lake, also Porra campera and gazpacho called Fuente de Piedra, are the most traditional dishes, contributes to the ecological together with roast pepper value of the region. salad, partridge and rabbit.

CAMPILLOS MOLLINA To the south, the landscape is The Roman sites at Mollina are embellished by the Guadalteba attractive for archaeologists and the and Guadalhorce reservoirs, general public alike, who will sure under which lies the old village appreciate the historic value of the of Peñarrubia, now disappeared. ancient remains.

4 Molino de la Paca (Paca Mill)

2 Antigua Venta San Antonio (Old St. Anthony's Inn) HUMILLADERO TEBA A leisure centre was built The urban areas have on the nearby mountains, been declared of historical 3 Almazara where you can spend a and artistic interest. They "Molino de los Mizos" wonderful day engaged in feature the typical CARRATRACA (Mizos Mill) outdoor activities. Andalusian design, with a The village rises on the number of mansions and hillsides of the Sierra small palaces that are Blanquilla. From many SYMBOLS worth a visit. spots in the village you ARDALES can to enjoy beautiful Beginning of the route Guadalhorce reservoirs contribute to CASARABONELA views. End of the route create a terrific landscape. Los The numerous niches with figures of Suggested route Gaitanes ravine is splendid and its saints are proof of the cherished Caminito del Rey, built at the dawn 05 Christian tradition of the village. of the 20th century, is a beauty spot. km.

167 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Meadows and marshes' olive oil Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil ECOLOGICAL OLIVE OIL ROUTE (Serranía de Ronda)

Ronda and the mountains surrounding the city are always a destination for those who want to know one of the most attractive regions in the province of Málaga. Olive trees have been part of the landscape since foundation of the city of Acinipo by the Romans; however, today the plantations are less extended than before due to the fact that the terrain's relief is not apt for mechanisation. Although the olive oil production volume is not so significant, farmers have chosen to produce ecological oil, highly demanded these days. Once in Ronda, you can follow a historical timeline path. First, you should visit Acinipo, located in Ronda la Vieja, where you will see the theatre, a Therefore, this route takes the visitor to nice corners with monuments and well preserved building. remains of a glorious past. There are incredible views the visitor will enjoy, as well as a rich gastronomy where olive oil occupies a privileged place. The most glorious epoch in Ronda started with the arrival of the Arabs. Typical examples of the period are the remains of the wall and the Puerta de Almocabar (Almocabar Gate). This gate, built in the 13th century, was ITINERARY: the entrance to the Alcazaba (old citadel). The Arab Baths are also worth Ronda visiting. They are located in the old Jewish quarter, where the Guadalevín Benalauría river and the Culebras stream meet. Benaoján Cross the bridge, built in the 16th century to link the Islamic city with the Ronda is the first destination. The city is one of Costa del Sol's classics. Christian quarter, and you will reach a neighbourhood called Mercadillo. Thousands of visitors come everyday to appreciate its historic and cultural Stop by the Fuente de los Ocho Caños (Eight Pipe Fountain) in the square legacy. where the Iglesia del Padre Jesús (Father Jesus Church) rises.

From Málaga, take the route to Cártama, the A-357, or the N-340 to There are other religious buildings worth visiting, such as the Iglesia del Marbella, exit to San Pedro de Alcántara. It takes one hour to drive from Espíritu Santo (Holy Spirit Church), the Convento de San Francisco (St. Málaga to Ronda. Francis Convent), the Convento de las Religiosas Clarisas (Convent of the nuns of the Order of Saint Claire), and the Iglesia de la Merced (Church of Mercy).

168 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Ecological olive oil route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Now it's time to go ahead. Take the A-369 to Gaucín, a scenic route on which you can stop to enjoy the most spectacular views in the province: the Serranía de Ronda and the Genal Valley. Along the road, there are viewpoints, parking areas, wooden benches and posters with tourist information.

The next destination is Benalauría, a small village with five hundred inhabitants located in the heart of the Serranía de Ronda. The Ethnographic Museum, housed in an old olive oil mill where you can appreciate a valuable collection of farming equipment.

The Bullring is an emblematic building of the city of Ronda. Its construction There is a second mill that houses the Mesón de la Molienda, a country- was completed in 1785, and the building project was directed by architect style cute restaurant decorated with farming tools. Sweets and liqueurs are Martín de Aldehuela. There is a Taurine Museum in the bullring. sold at the restaurant.

However, the bullring is not the most visited spot in Ronda, for the Once your visit to Benalauría is over, take the road to Benajoán, a village monument visitors prefer is the Puente Nuevo (new bridge), an impressive where cold meats and prehistory are protagonists. Indeed, the village's construction over the Tajo canyon, a deep scar the Guadalevín river has main incomes derive from the cold meat industry, which makes high quality cut in his travel through the land over the years. The Tajo, with its high products. You cannot miss the Cueva de la Pileta, a cave declared national natural walls, affords some superb views of the river. Near the river, you monument of prehistoric art, which features Paleolithic paintings and can see old olive and flour mills. Nowadays, there are only two olive mills relics. Benajoán witnessed travellers from distant places: Phoenicians, working in Ronda. Although their production is not that big, they have Romans, Visigoths, Arabs and Christians who have left fascinating chosen to promote ecological olive oil. remains. The Torre del Moro (Moor's Tower) can be seen from the railway station. After walking around the city, you will certainly be hungry. The various dishes of local gastronomy will satisfy your appetite: Ronda-style rabbit, After buying some cold meats, you should leave Benajoán and take the A- migas, Ronda-style partridge, beef tenderloin stuffed with pine nuts, 367 road back to Ronda. Sierra-style trout, artichoke soup… yemas del Tajo (sweet made with egg yolk and sugar) are a delicious dessert.

169 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Ecological olive oil route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil ECOLOGICAL OLIVE OIL ROUTE

RONDA The Serranía de Ronda boasts an extraordinary BENAOJÁN natural heritage. Its diverse The Iglesia de Nuestra Señora and rich ecosystems and its del Rosario (Our Lady of the amazing geological Rosary Church), built in the formations are part of this 17th century and remodelled in heritage. the 18th and 20th century, is one of the most interesting buildings in this village.

1 Mesón de la Molienda (Molienda Restaurant)

BENALAURÍA Up Alta street is the Ethnographic SYMBOLS Museum, housed in an old olive oil mill Beginning of the route built in 1750. The objects on display include elements used in an oil mill, End of the route farming tools and other traditional Suggested route elements related to olive oil making. 05 km.

170 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Tourist Routes: Ecological olive oil route Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil GASTRONOMIC CULTURE 5. gASTRONOMIC CULTURE Josep Pla said that "a meal is a landscape served on a plate". As in Málaga's landscape olive orchards are ever-present, olive oil should be de king of our region's traditional culture and also of modern cuisine. Together GASTRONOMIC CULTURE with wine, bread, fish and vegetables, it is one of the dietary staples of LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS Mediterranean peoples. OIL AND HEALTH The discovery of fire and the subsequent possibility of grilling foods brought about OIL FOR OTHER PURPOSES a momentous change in our forefathers' eating habits. Frying foods meant going one step further: some peoples used animal fat, but in the South they were lucky OIL IN POETRY enough to have olive oil, a gift from the gods. In Málaga's diet, every dish takes POPULAR FIESTAS olive oil, from the simplest to the most elaborate. OLIVE OIL MUSEUMS

171 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Gastronomic Culture Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil If you really want to enjoy the quality of our Here we present some recipes for AJOBLANCO olive oil, you should take it raw. For traditional dishes which would have been instance, you can have oiled toast for inconceivable if olive oil did not exist. breakfast in Málaga. But you can go one up on that and experience a superior taste ordering a type of bread called mollete, especially if you are in Antequera, since it is one of its specialties, or honey-glazed hojuelas (flakes or fritters). Spreading bread with olive oil and crushed tomato is a healthy habit that the Romans missed, since tomato, like many other vegetables, The way this cold soup is prepared varies slightly comes from America. Hollowing a piece of from region to region, but the basic ingredients bread and adding oil until it drips - are always the same: oil, garlic, almonds or sometimes with salt or sugar as well- has broad beans, vinegar and salt. long been one of the simplest, healthiest and most delicious snacks to give to Boil a handful of almonds in water so that the children. Slices of bread with garlic and skin can be easily removed. You can replace generously coated with olive oil are one of almonds by broad bean flour. Crush the garlic the most typical flavours in Spanish clove, almonds and a pinch of salt in a glazed kitchens; of course, you do not have to be mortar or a wooden bowl, adding some water. fussy about strong smells to enjoy them! Pour in olive oil, beating continuously as if The oil for direct consumption, the one making home-made mayonnaise, not allowing it seasoning salads or bread, should be a to curdle. When the oil is perfectly integrated into top-quality product, and in Málaga there the mix, add vinegar and water. Finally, sieve the are thousands of oils to choose from. cream.

You can also add apple cubes, grapes or breadcrumbs. Leave to chill and serve.

172 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Gastronomic culture Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil MIGAS PORRA This is a country meal, usually made in winter, Some people call it cold porra as opposed to highly nutritious, easy to prepare, and cheap. Its warm porra or seasoning. Many believe it was basic ingredients can be found in every home: born in Antequera, but porra is a traditional dish stale bread, oil, garlic and salt. in other northern villages in the province of Málaga. Slice the stale bread. Place bread layers on a dish. Pour some warm water on each layer. Let You can eat it anytime, but we suggest that you water soak into the bread. should take it in the summer. You can decorate it in different ways and serve it with a variety of Heat the olive oil in a frying pan. Add some side dishes, but it must have red tomatoes, skinned and chopped garlic gloves. When garlic, oil, stale bread, vinegar, salt and hard- brown, put the bread in the frying pan. Stir boiled eggs. If you add water to the mix, you will carefully not to let the bread stick to the bottom. have one of the most exquisite gazpachos: gazpacho pimentón. Water will evaporate. Leave breadcrumbs in the pan until golden and remove. Do not overcook. Since the arrival of the blender at the modern kitchen, the preparation of this dish has become Some cooks add pork scratchings, sausage, much easier. In the old days, it was made pepper… Whatever you include in the recipe, the entirely by hand in a wooden bowl. You should result will be great! They are usually served with put some skinned red tomatoes without seeds, seasoned olives or radish. Hunters will eat migas some garlic cloves and a pinch of salt. Crush all and chocolate. the ingredients. Add stale bread which has been previously soaked in water. Pour in olive oil and a splash of vinegar. Beat gently taking great care that it does not curdle.

Place on a serving dish. Pour a splash of oil on the cream and decorate with slices of hard- boiled eggs. You can add some ham cubes.

173 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Gastronomic culture Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil GAZPACHUELO PESCAÍTO FRITO (FRIED FISH)

The name of this dish may be misleading, for it seems to mean "little gazpacho" (the suffix -uelo is used in Spanish to indicate small size) but it shares almost nothing with gazpacho. Gazpachuelo is a warm soup prepared with mayonnaise. Its basic ingredients are egg, olive oil, vinegar, salt and bread. To add flavour to it, you should add cod, hake or clams. This soup can be eaten in any season of the year, and it is not expensive. A good dish of deep fried anchovies served Of those teeny-weeny fish First, make a mayonnaise with an egg yolk. It making a fan shape is always pleasing to the in the bosom of the sea can be made by hand or in the blender, always eye, it smells and tastes great. Fried fish or I prefer those small things taking great care that it does not curdle. While pescaítos is a world-famous dish from Málaga. that a single hand can keep preparing the mayonnaise, put some water and Fish used to make this meal are small like lashes in a small dish. salt to the boil. Stir the egg white into the boiling anchovies, squids, red mullets, etc. Fish must be water. coated with flour, lump-free. Fish must be deep Some of us still remember those stalls in the fried in olive oil, at the proper temperature, for streets where fried fish was sold in paper cones. The mayonnaise is dissolved pouring in a little the right time. Served either in cones or in a serving dish in a warm water, again taking care it does not curdle. posh restaurant, deep-fried fish is an emblematic Pour a little vinegar. Then, add fish or clams and Salvador Rueda refers to fried fish in one of his dish in Málaga, and an essential part of its return to the flame. Gazpachuelo is served poems: gastronomic culture. warm. (De los peces chiquititos If you leave some soup in the dish and add the que el mar tiene en sus entrañas, egg white, orange cubes, olives and olive oil, you me gustan los más chiquitos will get another delicious dish. en manojos pequeñitos cual manojos de pestañas.)

174 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Gastronomic culture Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil GAZPACHO CHIVO AL AJILLO (GOAT AU GARLIC) TORTAS DE ACEITE (OLIVE OIL CAKES)

Cut the goat in cubes, rinse and season with salt. This is a typical pastry from Málaga that can be Put 6 cups of olive oil in a frying pan. When eaten all year round. Its basic ingredients are sizzling hot, stir in the meat until slightly brown. olive oil, flour, sugar, white wine, cinnamon, sesame, fennel seeds and almonds. Meanwhile chop 1 kg (2 lb) tomatoes, 250 g (0.5 lb) of pepper, 2 onions and 4 cloves of garlic, a Heat two cups of olive oil. Add the skin of one few bay leaves and some pepper. Add the lemon. When the oil is hot, remove it from heat vegetables to the pan and stir. and stir in 1 tablespoon of sesame seeds and 1 tablespoon of fennel seeds. When lukewarm, put There are quite many variants of gazpacho, Simmer over medium flame. When it starts to the olive oil into a bowl and pour 1 cup of white created as a result of necessity, heat or scarce of boil down, add 2 cups of white wine. Stir wine, grated lemon rind and 150 g (5 oz) of food in the country. We will include here the continuously to avoid sticking. sugar. variant which is easiest to prepare, called gazpacho liso or saltalindes. Eat directly from the pan. Mix well. Add the flour to make a dough. Leave to rest and then shape the mixture into small You will see how unbelievable simple it is to cakes. Place chopped almonds, previously make it. Clean two or three red ripe tomatoes, blanched and skinned. two green peppers and a small onion. Chop the vegetables finely. Season with some salt, Turn the cakes into a tin and bake in a low oven. vinegar and virgin olive oil. Add water and stir. Add salt or vinegar to taste. If you have added too much of these seasonings, you can add some water.

When broad beans are in season, which nowadays extends all year round, you can stir in some. The dish is ready to serve.

175 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Gastronomic culture Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS

In Málaga there are many legends, traditions and popular fiestas celebrating olives and olive oil and emphasising their important role they have had for the people.

In some villages, when someone finishes building their house, it is customary to bring them a small bag of salt and a bottle of oil for the inhabitants' wishes to come true.

Since Antiquity, the olive branch has been a symbol of peace and, together with the white dove that carries it in its beak, it has always represented that precious state.

There is also the belief that placing a blessed olive branch from the Palm Sunday procession at the windows of a house will protect the house's inhabitants from lightning. This spell, of course, reflects the syncretism of religious and superstitious elements. Catholicism uses this mystic power of olive trees in many of its rituals: the ashes used to anoint the parishioners' foreheads comes from burnt olive branches and on Ash Wednesday we are reminded that we are mortal with the terrible words Memento, homo, quia pulvis eris et in pulvere te reverteris. "[...] for dust thou [art], and unto dust shalt thou return." (Genesis, 3:19) Good-quality or just lampante oil has always been the fuel of the lamp The same blending of magic and religion can be found in the tradition burning night and day at the church tabernacle or illuminating devotional associated with the Christmas tree burn: a huge tree trunk -sometimes a images. A long time ago, in Almogía (a village 23 km from Málaga), a holm oak, but mostly an olive tree is burnt on Christmas Eve, which is villager planted and grew an olive tree and he promised to offer as much where the tree's name comes from: Nochebueno (pertaining to Christmas oil as could be extracted from his tree to the moths that burn to the memory Eve). The tree burns down in the chimney, and so its ashes protect the of "Blessed Souls". The tree is now known as the "Soul Tree". house from lightning.

176 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Gastronomic culture: Traditions Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil At Candle Night, in February, the bonfires lighted to honour the Candelaria Virgin are made of olive tree branches pruned at this time of the year. The dances, songs and jumps round the bonfire embers resemble fertility rites, and the olive tree is a symbol of fertility.

Along with traditional food fiestas (ajoblanco, oil, migas, cold meats) celebrated in some of Málaga's villages, there is a traditional fiesta perpetuating the magical relation between oil and fire: the Fiesta de los Rondeles, which takes place in Casarabonela every 12 December, a complex rite where oil, fire and popular religion make an inextricable blend of superstition, magic and religion.

Since Antiquity, oil has been associated to owls, the night bird which in Greek mythology was the attribute of Athena (Roman Minerva), who gave her city, Athens, an olive tree, source of food, oil and wood. And it so happens that in Málaga, popular wisdom has always associated oil with owls, since the latter inhabit olive orchards and are believed to increase the production of olives with There is also a beautiful legend among farmers that tells of the their alluring hoots and screeches. Knowing this, it is not difficult relationship between oil and the Arabs. It is said that even though to understand why there is a famous brand of oil and soap called the Moors have been driven out of Andalusia (Al Andalus), they Minerva. still are the real owners of olive trees, since they were unparalleled experts in growing and looking after olives. As a sign of their ownership, every year they send flocks of thrushes that perk on the olive trees' branches. Each bird picks three olives, one with their beak and one in each foot, and they take their precious burden back to Africa, to return it to its original owners.

177 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Gastronomic culture: Traditions Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil OIL AND HEALTH

Since ancient times, when illnesses were cured with herbal medicines, oil has been one of the most popular homely remedies. Even nowadays, when we can find medicines for all kinds of illnesses, we can still find a granny trying to cure her grandson's bellyache with a spoonful of oil. Part of this popular wisdom is expressed in a proverb about the healing properties of oil: Olive oil takes all pains and sorrows away. Another proverb can be quoted, which reveals another interesting characteristic of oil: low-quality or lampante oil, mainly used as lamp fuel, is sometimes used Enrique Mapelli, a gourmet from Málaga, mentions that "Because because it is cheaper, so the saying goes With lamp oil, no pain or of its balanced composition, olive oil is the vegetable oil with the sorrow survives. fewest negative effects on and the highest number of advantages for human health: it reduces cholesterol, contributes to child bone Apart from being used as a balm, olive oil was used as an development and improves blood circulation, thus diminishing the ingredient in love potions (pócimas or aliños in Spanish). Thus, oil incidence of atherosclerosis." has become a cure for ill bodies and sick hearts alike. It has been shown that peoples on a Mediterranean diet, one of In the 1st century B.C., Pliny wrote that "There are to beverages whose staples is olive oil, are less prone to have too much with a lot of benefits to the human body: wine for internal use, and cholesterol in their bloodstream, a substance that leads to for external use, oil." narrowing and blockage of arteries and is responsible for a high rate of deaths in countries who fall prey to the bad eating habits Professor Grande Covián, an expert in health and nutrition, imposed by modern life. Besides, olive oil is beneficial to intestinal attributes the low mortality rate from coronary heart disease functioning for it lubricates the intestine, thus preventing among Mediterranean populations to olive oil consumption. constipation. Indeed, there is a proverb that says, "With warm feet and smoothly moving bowels, you can laugh at death for long."

178 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Gastronomic culture: Oil and health Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil OIL FOR OTHER PURPOSES OIL AND LIGHTING Apart from being an basic ingredient in the kitchen, extra virgin olive oil has been used for many other purposes which can be grouped into four Low-quality olive oil has used as a basic categories: beauty, lighting, soap-making and food preservation. lighting fuel since the beginning of time. Because of the flame it produces, OIL AND BEAUTY bright and long-lasting, this type of oil has been called lampante (from lamp). As olive oil is greasy and has the One of the most frequent objects found invaluable vitamin E, in Roman archaeological sites are finely decorated, terracotta oil lamps it has always been called lucernae, which used olive oil as their fuel. used as a basic ingredient in body, Before the invention of electric light, even when the use of gas or kerosene facial and hair lamps was already widespread, humble houses were illuminated with beauty products. It is lanterns (candiles), simple metal lamps with a hollow to pour in olive oil ever-present in and a cotton wick that burned down slowly. In posh neighbourhoods, oil fragrance oils, used to burn in sophisticated copper plates with several arms. The combined with containers used to keep the lighting oil are called cruets (alcuzas). There crushed or emulsified seeds, fruits or herbs: almonds, sesame, is a folk song that show how the lantern burning on oil can become an ally coconuts, lavender, and many others. of lovers:

What follows is a recipe for a sun oil taken from Lourdes March and (El candil se está apagando; Alicia Ríos's El libro del aceite y la aceituna (The Book of Olives and La alcuza no tiene aceite; Olive Oil). Ni te digo que te vayas; Ni tampoco que te quedes.) Sesame oil Take 3 tablespoonfuls of extra virgin olive oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of sesame The lantern is burning down; oil, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar and a few drops of bergamot oil. Mix the The cruet has no oil left; ingredients in a bottle and shake it every time you use it before sunbathing. I don't say that you should leave; Neither do I mean you to stay

179 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Gastronomic culture: Oil for other purposes Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil OIL AND SOAP-MAKING

Olive oil lees (liquid wastes) are inedible, but they are used in the manufacture of a personal hygiene and clothes care basic product: soap. Making soap was customary at Spanish homes: it had a typical smell and it was environment-friendly. The procedure is very simple: you should pour in oil (lees or used cooking oil), caustic soda and water in a boiler, and boil the mix until you get a whitish and thick paste. Then you leave it to rest for two hours until solid, and to cut it into bars with a wire. The Arabs used ashes and lime as alkaline components; in fact, al-qali means "ash" in Arabic.

FOOD PRESERVATION

Salt, sugar and oil are the traditional natural preservatives until the arrival of modern refrigerators. In the past, fish could only be preserved by smoking, salting or covering it in oil: canned tuna, sardines or mackerel in olive oil can be eaten all year round. But maybe cheese, especially goat cheese, is the most representative food associated with oil preservation, since cubed and soaked in olive oil, it is one of the most delicious things on Earth. Many of the villages we will pass by when presenting the different olive oil routes sell this exquisite oil-preserved cheese.

180 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Gastronomic culture: Oil for other purposes Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil OIL IN POETRY

(Los ojos de mi morena (Recogiendo aceitunas (Ojos que te vieron ir ni son chicos ni son grandes, se hacen las bodas; Por aquellos olivares, que son aceitunas negras quien no va de aceitunas ¿cuándo te verán volver de los olivos gordales.) no se enamora. para alivio de mis males?) ¿Qué tendrán, madre My mistress's eyes para cosas de amores, My eyes bade you farewell are neither small nor big; los olivares?) when you walked into the olive grove; they are black olives when will they see you again Olive trees, olives and the from a gordal olive tree.) Picking and harvesting olives so my sorrows go away? labour associated with their care is how weddings are fixed; are recurrent topics in (Un olivo bien plantao those who do not enjoy picking (El querer que te tuve Andalusian folk songs. Every siempre parece olivera are by love untinged. fue aceitunero. year when the harvest ends, y una mujer bien casá What is it, mother, they have Se acabó la aceituna, there are fiestas for men and siempre parece soltera.) these olive trees ya no te quiero.) women olive pickers sing, dance for the things of love? and play games. Many beautiful A well-planted olive tree Our love was like an olive stanzas have come down to us, always looks like bearing fruit (Yo cojo las de abajo, and it lasted just one harvest; whose lyrics talk about courting and a woman who is well-married tú las de arriba; now that there are no more olives and love always single's how she looks. por entre rama y rama I have no more loving habits. miro y me miras.) (Tú eres aceitunera, (Salga la luna y alumbre (Anda diciendo tu madre yo, aceitunero; los huertos y los olivares, I'll pick the ones on top que tiene un olivar; por una aceitunerita, que el querer que yo te tengo you'll pick the ones below; el olivar que tú tienes madre, me muero.) de las entrañas me sale.) mutual glimpses will we get es que te quieres casar.) through the tree, between its You are an olive-picker, Let the moon come up and light branches and above. You morther is telling the world I'm an olive-picker too; the orchards and olive fields, that she has an olive grove for a girl who picks olives, for it oozed out of my guts your olive orchard, instead, mum, I could die so soon. the love that for thee I feel. is that you want to be loved.

181 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Gastronomic culture: Oil in poetry Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Andalusian olive trees are present in In Federico García Lorca's poetry, (En este olivarillo de la loma, In this little uphill olive tree , Antonio Machado's poetry, some of olive trees are also a recurrent que apenas tiene sombra, apenas which has no shadow, bud or whose stanzas are quoted here: image: flores, shoot, que ilustren su pobreza con colores to disguise in colours its poverty (¡Viejos olivos sedientos (Por el olivar venían, o alegren su silencio con aroma for its silence in smell to take root. bajo el claro sol del día, bronce y sueño, los gitanos olivares polvorientos las cabezas levantadas y que devuelve en fruto cuanto and which turns into fruit what it del campo de Andalucía!) y los ojos entornados.) toma holds de la tierra y nos da sus sudores from the land and gives us its Olive trees, thirsty and old Along the olive grove there came, aceite, que en dorados sweat under the light of the sun, the gypsies, dreams and bronze resplandores oil, which in its golden glows dusty, dusty olive grove, they had their heads half-raised la dura oscuridad reduce y doma; harsh darkness tames and wets; in Andalusian lands! they had their eyes half-closed. en este olivarillo, mi consuelo from this little olive oil my comfort (Sobre el olivar This section would not be complete me vino, sin saber cómo ni cuándo, came, se vio la lechuza with the Antequera-born poet José mientras iba por él entretenido; without my knowing how or when, volar y volar.) Antonio Muñoz Rojas's lines, which while I was in it amused; introduce us to a poet leaning on an no sé si es de la tierra o es del Across the olive grove, olive tree which becomes a silent cielo, I don't know if it's the land or the the owl was seen witness and symbol of the poet's sólo sé que lo siento aquí sky to fly low and low and low. feelings and reflections: alentando; Only I know I can feel it inside, y el corazón lo tiene por latido.) and my heart takes if for beating, (Campo, campo, campo, confused. entre los olivos los cortijos blancos.)

Field, field, field, country estates intertwined with lines of olive trees.

182 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Gastronomic culture: Oil in poetry Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil POPULAR FIESTAS Instead of burning the mats extended, the villagers agreed to burn them FIESTA DE LOS RONDELES (CASARABONELA) rolled, so that the flame could last longer. At about 10 P.M., after the fire to burn the mats soaked in oil is blessed, the Virgen de los Rondeles (Virgin of Olive Straw Mats) procession begins its way from the square next to the Chapel of Veracruz to the highest part of the village, where the Church of Saint James the Apostle lies. The procession is accompanied by Casarabonela's Pastoral Staff, who sing old songs with rattles, mortars and Moorish castanets. While having this intense experience where the protagonist is fire, villagers and visitors can enjoy an invigorating hot chocolate cup with some slices of bread with olive oil and garlic and light- as-the-wind fritters. As the procession walks along the winding roads, this picturesque village comes to life with the light of lanterns hanging from balconies and windows. This ancient tradition is witnessed by thousands of visitors every year.

The Fiesta de los Rondeles (Straw Mats Fiesta) is perhaps the oldest of FIESTA DE LAS MIGAS (TORROX) those oil-related celebrations in Málaga. It was declared an event of National Tourist Interest in Andalusia in 2001 and it has been organised in Fiesta de las Migas: 30-12-02 Casarabonela for centuries now. It consists in burning the rondeles (the Another fiesta celebrated in Málaga that has also been declared of Tourist straw mats used for olive pressing. In the past, millers used to walk in Interest is held in the village of Torrox on the Sunday before Christmas, the procession, brandishing burning straw mats, to thank Virgin Mary for the Fiesta de las Migas (Bread Crumbs Fiesta). Thousands of people visit the olive harvest. Despite its religious nature, it was banned after the Spanish village every year to taste this country meal prepared mainly in winter, Civil War, and it could not be held until the 1970s, with the excuse that it which is invigorating, cheap and nutritious, for its ingredients are was pagan in spirit rather than religious. carbohydrates: bread, olive oil and garlic. As people say there, a plate of migas a day keeps the doctor away. Even though this dish is traditionally After these years of intolerance, the celebration began again, and every 12 prepared with stale country bread, for the celebration semolina is used, December, on the eve of Saint Lucy's day's, the ritual is renewed every since there are too many mouths to feed! year with great enthusiasm and minor changes.

183 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Gastronomic culture: Popular fiestas Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil FIESTA DEL AJOBLANCO (ALMÁCHAR) DÍA DEL ACEITE (PERIANA)

This fiesta is celebrated in Almáchar, a village in Axarquía, on the first Día del Aceite 17-06-03 Sunday in September. Visitors are invited to taste ajoblanco, a On the last Sunday in March, at the end of the olive picking season, traditional dish of Málaga's gastronomy prepared with almonds, garlic, thousands of people visit Periana to participate in the Día del Aceite vinegar and olive oil. This celebration is an ideal opportunity to taste (Oil Day), a celebration organised by the Periana City Council, local this delicious gazpacho and visit one of the most charming villages in shopkeepers and institutions, and the village's olive oil cooperatives. Málaga's eastern region. On this occasion, Almáchar's streets are Visitors are invited to taste the magnificent extra virgin olive oil embellished with flowers and ornaments and the village becomes a manufactured in Axarquía, in a ideal region for its production. Along living ethnographic museum, a luxurious experience for those who with olive oil, other traditional food products can also be bought: goat wish to spend some time visiting quiet places and meeting kind cheese, honey, sweets, sausages and cold meats. people.

FIESTA DEL MOSTO Y LA CHACINA (COLMENAR)

Fiesta de la Matanza 29-04-03 On the second Sunday in December, Colmenar, a village in the region of Axarquía but which borders on Antequera, celebrates its traditional Fiesta del Mosto y la Chacina (Must and Cold Meats Fiesta), a fair of traditional Colmenar products where you can taste must from the mountains and tapas topped with cold meats, and buy homemade foods elaborated with ancient recipes, such as goat cheese, olive oil, honey, black pudding, salchichón (a kind of spiced sausage similar to salami), and many others. The fair is ideal to get hold of special traditional products to eat and drink at Christmas. Local pubs take part in the fiesta inviting guests to taste migas, chorizo, tripe, porra and pintxos.

Besides, there are several activities organised by the City Council, such as flamenco shows, street Moorish fandango and City Band parades.

184 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Gastronomic culture: Popular fiestas Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil OLIVE OIL MUSEUMS trade of oil in ancient times and mock-ups of different types of mills from different ages, visitors get to a room showing a 19th century press. It is a HOJIBLANCA OIL MUSEUM (ANTEQUERA) corner press, made of holm oak wood. The press used to turn round on the straw mats where crushed olives were placed, and an inserted beam This is the only oil-based museum in the province of Málaga. It is located pressed the mats. The whole mechanism was powered by millers next to the headquarters of the Sociedad Cooperativa Olivarera Hojiblanca themselves. (Hojiblanca Oil Cooperative), on the road that links Antequera with Córdoba, to the left of A-92 motorway if coming from the city of Málaga. The last press is a Roman mill, which dates back to the 1st century and was found in a village near the museum. The pieces exhibited are a The museum basically consists of three mills from different periods, pressing room (torcularium), a trujal (labrum, the reservoir where oil was exhibited in different rooms with relevant documents, utensils and farming kept after being obtained) and the counterweight stone. The wooden tools used to pick and press olives, and store and preserve olive oil. press, which of course did not survive the passing of time, was reconstructed. In the same site, olive stones, almost fossilised, were also The tour around the museum begins with a 17th century press, perhaps found. the most interesting piece there, which reproduces a torn-down mill in every detail and keeps some of the original components, such as the Not long ago, an oil press cellar's jars, the beam and the stone mill. The most striking feature is the was found at El Romeral ton beam press, a gigantic crossbeam of pine and holm oak wood, 12.5 village. It used to be part metres in length and over 3 tons in weight, whose head is between two of one of the many logs where the beam is fixed, resting on a Roman villas that niche in the counterweight tower. flourished in the region of Antequera from the 1st to The cellar has been recreated with the the 5th centuries. This is original jars, some of them signed by the a unique archaeological masters of pottery who made them. Next to finding, and along with it them, there are different implements related they unearthed some fragments of the typical paving of this period. Most to the world of oil: sieves, scales, oil lamps, likely, this press will be part of the Hojiblanca's Oil Museum's heritage. and others. In the gardens surrounding the museum, there are six olive trees more Walking along a gallery displaying than three hundred years old, which have been transplanted. Their knotty information boards on the extraction and trunks are more than 1 meter in diameter.

185 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Gastronomic culture: Museums Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil BOTANICAL GARDEN Even though the city of Málaga is not part of the typcial landscape hidden The walls show interesting oil- behind the mountains that is home to olive trees, the city boasts two related documents, watercolours, specimens that are worth seeing. One of them is very near the sea, in the lithographs, tinplate containers, and port next to the port offices. The other is in the Botanical Garden: it is a late 19th and early 20th century magnificent olive tree, four hundred years old, transplanted from the labels for oil bottles. Axarquía to a privileged space where several plants and trees coexist and are part of the tour "Trees Grown in Our Land". This "natural monument", The oil mill is next to the wine press, then, is part of a system where many different floral species live together. with its screw press and the terra- cotta jars where must was left to ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (RIOGORDO) ferment.

Along with its peculiar handicrafts, Going out and across the yard, homemade utensils and farming visitors reach the flour mill, called San tools, this museum has three mills: a Antonio. What is kept of it are the foot press used to obtain wine, a pulleys, the millstone, the sieves, and flour mill where wheat was ground, the different tools and devices used to and an oil mill. Together, they make grind wheat. a perfect summary of the Mediterranean diet: oil, bread and The tour also includes a visit to the wine. miller's house, one of those typical homes of Málaga's towns that keep The museum is located in a 17th furniture and everyday objects that century oil mill, a horse-drawn mill. It have become traces of past times. has a watermill and another 17th century corner mill with its masonry tower.

186 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Gastronomic culture: Museums Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil MUSEUM OF POPULAR TRADITIONS AND ARTS ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (BENALAURÍA)

In the highest and most central part of Benalauría, a great town in the heart of the Serranía de Ronda, travellers can visit the Ethnographic Museum. Local villagers, who love old traditions and buried ways of life, have cherished a very old oil mill, from the 18th This museum is located in what used to be one of the most central taverns century, with all the tools that in the city of Málaga, El Mesón de la Victoria, where every day mule- not long ago were still in use. drivers and traders came to sell and buy oil, cheese, fruit, wine and other country foods. Its pieces are a rich sample of ways of life and traditions that It was a horse-drawn mill, and are virtually extinct. when you see it, you can understand why: the river Apart from oil-related items, the museum houses two collections that must flows down along the ravine, be seen: the Narciso Díaz de Escobar (1860-1935) archives and the so there is no way to take Málaga earthenware. advantage of its water.

The museum has several rooms divided in two floors. On the ground floor, Next to the mill, there is the there is a wine press and and oil mill, dating back to the 19th century and beam press, a huge, 12-metre long wooden sheet that used to weigh on found in a village whose premises were used to build the Limonero dam. crushed olives. The tanks used for oil to settle and the stone mill have Next to the mill, visitors can see the oil press with different weights, a sieve been kept. The collection is complemented with a wide range of farming to clean olives and other tools used for the harvest and oil making process. tools and equipment.

187 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Gastronomic culture: Museums Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil MIRAFLORES COUNTRY ESTATE AND MUSEUM (MARBELLA)

This museum is located in a building from the early 18th century, which used to be a farm and a sugar mill. Now it has become a place exhibiting the details of past times with loads of traditions.

The visit to the Miraflores Country Estate and Museum begins at the gardens, where guests are welcome. There they can find rare specimens of hundred-year-old palms and olive trees. Inside, there are rooms for permanent painting exhibitions and there is the greatest attraction: the old oil mill, the only one that is part of a museum but is also at work. Its machinery, which is in perfect condition, is set in motion on a regular basis. The same room exhibits other oil-related objects, such as scales, jars and acidity metres.

The museum boasts a library, functioning where there used to be the barn, where visitors can read as much as they like about oil and oil-making.

188 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Gastronomic culture: Museums Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil HOW TO CHOOSE OLIVE OIL The times when olive oil was sold in grocer's shops indiscriminately, without informing the costumer of its quality and properties, have long been finished and forgotten. Things have changed, and now Málaga's olive oil comes in sealed plastic, metal or glass containers that comply with regulations in force. In spite of this, olive oils are not all the same, as was already made clear when discussing the different types of oil. So the first suggestion is that you should always buy extra virgin olive oil, which you can choose among the numerous excellent oils produced in Málaga's mills.

Secondly, you should read the label carefully, since it provides information on brand, class or category, acidity, bottling date, origin, olive variety, and expiration date.

Before buying a bottle of extra virgin olive oil, you should know that its 6. uSEFUL TIPS degree of acidity (i.e. how much oleic acid it contains) has to be higher than 0.2% and lower than or equal to 1%. This information is similar to the one found on wine bottles, telling how much alcohol the wine contains.

HOW TO CHOOSE OLIVE OIL The reason why extra virgin olive oil is to be preferred is that this is the only type of oil that keeps its original biological properties and organoleptic quality. WHERE TO BUY IT There is a proverb that goes, "Best is cheapest," and this applies to oil. If, trying to HOW TO KEEP IT save some pennies, you buy an inferior oil, you will run the risk of spoiling your salads, stews or fried dishes. HOW TO USE IT As in the case of wine, olive oils are not exactly the same every year, even when they come from the same mill. Changing circumstances, especially weather conditions, can affect the quality of the produce.

189 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Useful Tips Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil WHERE TO BUY IT There are two ways to buy a good extra virgin olive oil. The more common one is to go and get it at a grocer's shop. The shopkeeper will be able to help you if you do not know how to choose the right oil. You can also go to the oil section at a supermarket or department store and pick the Málaga extra virgin olive oil of your choice. Make sure you read the label well. The second way to find the right oil is the one recommended in this guide. We suggest you take one of the olive oil routes presented here and visit the places were olives are grown, and oil is extracted and stored with great care and love.

There are 74 mills in Málaga, and all of them sell olive oil directly to customers. In the region of the Axarquía (Mondrón, Comares, Vélez, Alfarnate, Valle Niza, Alcaucín, Periana, Riogordo, Sayalonga, Sedella, Cómpeta, Frigiliana, Canillas de Aceituno, Los Romanes), the oil, HOW TO KEEP IT extracted from verdial olives, is so good that you can barely refrain from Contrary to what happens with wine, ageing does not add quality to olive tasting it. oil. In fact, oil should be used within the year of its production, and this is why it is so important to pay attention to the expiration date specified on In the region of Antequera, there is a mill in each and every village: the label. Antequera, Alameda, Fuente Piedra, Villanueva de Algaida, Villanueva de Tapia, Archidona, Cuevas Bajas, Cuevas de San Marcos, La Parrilla, Olive oil must be kept in a cool and dark place, in adequate containers, Villanueva del Rosario and Villanueva del Trabuco, among others. The preferably airtight and made of glass. As it is a natural product and it is best olive oils in Andalusia are obtained from the hojiblanco, romerillo and alive, it can be invaded by other smells. Thus, you should keep it in marteño cultivars planted here. isolation or separated from other strong-smelling foods.

In the Guadalhorce mid and low valleys, olive oil is not that abundant, but the oils produced in the area's villages, such as Teba, Ardales, Casarabonela, Almogía, Monda, Guaro, Ojén, and Alhaurín de la Torre, are among the finest in Spain. The same can be said about Ronda, an area specialising in ecological synthetic oil. A new mill producing it has just been opened in Cuevas del Becerro.

190 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Useful Tips Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil HOW TO USE IT There are some rules to bear in mind when using olive oil in the kitchen. In the case of salads, here is the golden rule to season them: let salt be added by a stingy man; vinegar by a wise man; and oil, by a madman. You should mind all of the salad's ingredients, except olive oil, which must be added profligately. For oil adds a natural taste to food, it is the finishing touch that you cannot miss!

Apart from seasoning salads, olive oil can also be used to fry meat, fish or vegetables. Unlike other fats, which are altered as a result of heat, oil is highly stable and, as cooks like to say, it "goes a long way." When poured in the pan, oil rises to the challenge.

But both housewives and cooks know that, even though olive oil can be used more than once to fry food, the oil used to fry fish and the one used to fry meat must be kept in separate containers and reused with the same type of food. Otherwise, the result will be a disagreeable mix of smells and tastes.

Nowadays, when everybody is in such a hurry all the time, traditional cuisine, prepared with time and great care, is a luxurious need. So we recommend you and your family to have a pleasant meal at home or at a restaurant and demand olive oil with your dish. Small savings can lead to big losses when flavour and health are concerned.

191 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Useful Tips Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil GLOSSARY Aceña (aceña): flour mill located on the river bank and powered by the Oil lamp (candil): tool used to give light, with an oil container, a wick, and river's water. a stick and hook to hang. Alcuza (alcuza): terra-cotta or tinplate jar used to keep oil for different Pomace (orujo): solid remnant after milling olives, once the oil and purposes. alpechín have been removed. Alpechín (alpechín): dark water left by crushed and mill olives; it flows Rancid oil (aceite picado): oil that is past its expiration date, and with oil and is then separated by settling, since oil is lighter and floats in therefore tastes old and stale. water. Romana (romana): in some regions, place where one can buy olives to Alperujo (alperujo): paste produced by mixing alpechín and orujo. take them to the nearest mill to be processed. Arroba (arroba): old units of weight equivalent to 11.5 kilos. Sieve (zaranda): slanting device with wires that make a grate, used to Bale (fardo): light and large cloth placed under olive trees for olives to fall clean olives off twigs and dirt before taking them to the mills. on it, so that picking them later is easier. Soleras (soleras): olives that have fallen from the tree and have to be Coupage oil (coupage): oil produced out of different varieties of olives. picked from the soil. Dues (maquila): amount of grain, flour or oil given to the mill owner as a Talón (talón): tender shoot of the olive tree that will bear the olives in the tax for using his mill. following harvest. Early picking (verdeo): early harvest of olives, when they are not fully To grind or mill (molturar): to crush the olives in a mill and extract the oil. ripe, to be seasoned and preserved for consumption purposes. To hand-pick, "milk" (ordeñar): to pick olives with one's hand, not Flavour ("flavor"): oil quality created by the combination of smell, taste mechanically. and texture. To knock down (varear): to hit the branches of olive trees with short or Horse-drawn press (molino de sangre): mill powered by the foce of long sticks to make olives come off. horses that turn round an axis. Trama (trama): flower of the olive tree. Macaco (macaco): type of basket carried by olive-harvesters round their Trujal (trujal): small reservoir where oil is kept after extraction in mills. necks, where they put the hand-picked olives. Turbios (turbios): thick substance sitting at the bottom of the oil Marrana (marrana): press axis under which the capachos are placed to reservoirs, which can be used to make soap. extract oil from crushed olives. Vecero (vecero): olive tree that yields olives in alternating years. Mat (capacho): circle of straw were crushed olives are placed to press them. Mill (almazara): building or structure where oil is produced out of olives. Millrace (caz or cao): ditch to carry water from the upper part of the river to the aceña or mill.

192 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Useful Tips Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil TRAINS Short-distance trains depart from Málaga Airport and the Railway Station. There is a daily railway service that will satisfy your transportation demands.

For further information, please call 902 24 02 02. . useful information BUSES TRANSPORT Málaga has a modern Bus Terminal where you will find all the TRAINS information you need regarding timetables or companies BUSES operating in all Málaga's districts. TAXIS The Bus Terminal is located in Paseo de los Tilos, s/n. CAR RENTALS PARKING AREAS For further information, please call 95 235 00 61. TOURIST OFFICES The following list includes bus companies departing from Málaga's Bus HEALTHCARE CENTRES Terminal reaching destinations in the different Olive Oil Routes we have CURRENCY AND BANKING referred to in this guide:

193 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Información útil Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil ALAMEDA: CASABERMEJA: MÁLAGA CAPITAL: Automóviles Casado, S.A. Autocares Mateo S.L. Empresa Municipal de Transporte. Phone: 95 231 59 08 Phone: 95 273 01 46 Phone: 95 235 00 61

ALFARNATE: CASARABONELA: MOCLINEJO: Automóviles Casado S.A. Sierra de las Nieves, S.L. Autocares Valle Niza S.L. Phone: 95 231 59 08 Phone: 95 235 54 90 Phone: 95 254 27 84

ALFARNATEJO: COLMENAR: MOLLINA: Automóviles Casado S.A. Automóviles Casado S.A. Automóviles Casado, S.A. Phone: 95 231 59 08 Phone: 95 231 59 08 Phone: 95 231 59 08

ALMÁCHAR: COMARES: OLÍAS: Autocares Valle Niza S.L. Alsina Graells Sur, S.A. Alsina Graells Sur, S.A. Phone: 95 254 27 84 Phone: 95 231 82 95 Phone: 95 231 82 95

ANTEQUERA: CÓMPETA: PERIANA: Automóviles Casado, S.A. Ruiz y Avila, S.L. Alsina Graells Sur, S.A. Phone: 95 231 59 08 Phone: 95 254 11 13 Phone: 95 231 82 95

ARCHIDONA: EL BORGE: RIOGORDO: Automóviles Casado, S.A. Autocares Valle Niza S.L. Automóviles Casado S.A. Phone: 95 231 59 08 Phone: 95 254 27 84 Phone: 95 231 59 08 Alsina Graells Sur, S.A. ARDALES: FUENTE PIEDRA: Phone: 95 231 82 95 Los Amarillos, S.L. Automóviles Casado, S.A. Phone: 95 236 30 24 Phone: 95 231 59 08

CARRATRACA: HUMILLADERO: Los Amarillos, S.L. Automóviles Casado, S.A. Phone: 95 236 30 24 Phone: 95 231 59 08

194 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Useful Information Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil RONDA: TAXIS CARRATRACA: Sierra de las Nieves, S.L. There are taxi stands in most districts, but Phone: 95 245 80 41 Phone: 95 235 54 90 taxis can be hailed on any street. When 95 245 80 22 Los Amarillos, S.L. taxis are empty, they show a green light. 95 245 80 05 Phone: 95 236 30 24 You can also ask for a taxi over the phone. Corporación Española de Transportes, S.A. In the list below, you will find phone CASABERMEJA: Phone: 902 143 144 numbers for most districts mentioned in this Phone: 61 613 21 54 guide. 60 732 36 84 TEBA: 65 049 99 76 Automóviles Casado, S.A. ALAMEDA: Phone: 95 231 59 08 Phone: 95 271 00 03 CASARABONELA: Phone: 65 056 25 42 VÉLEZ MÁLAGA: ALFARNATE: 62 750 27 96 Alsina Graells Sur, S.A. Phone: 61 988 84 74 61 628 62 29 Phone: 95 231 82 95 64 922 73 56 ALMÁCHAR: VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDA: Phone: 95 251 21 11 COLMENAR: Automóviles Casado, S.A. Phone: 65 899 60 14 Phone: 95 231 59 08 ANTEQUERA: 60 952 51 89 Taxi Radio 65 303 18 54 VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO: Phone: 95 284 55 30 60 732 36 84 Automóviles Casado, S.A. 60 580 88 54 Phone: 95 231 59 08 ARCHIDONA: 66 958 00 72 Phone: 95 271 43 81 66 141 63 68 VILLANUEVA DEL TRABUCO: Automóviles Casado, S.A. BENAMOCARRA: COMARES: eléfono: 95 231 59 08 Phone: 95 250 95 28 Phone: 62 621 49 60 64 973 49 86

CÓMPETA: Phone: 95 251 61 99

195 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Useful Information Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil HUMILLADERO: VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO: Prima Rent a Car, S.L. Phone: 95 273 70 96 - 71 89 Phone: 95 274 20 96 Apdo. de Correos 12 29080 Málaga MÁLAGA CAPITAL: VILLANUEVA DEL TRABUCO: Phone: 95 231 09 75 Unitaxi Phone: 95 275 13 13 Phone: 95 232 79 50; 95 233 33 33 Crack Rent a Car (Baro Motor, S. L.) Taxi Unión Sociedad Cooperativa Andaluza Avda. Velazquez, 1 y 3 Phone: 95 234 59 48 CAR RENTALS 29003 Málaga Phone: 95 234 26 14 PERIANA: MÁLAGA CITY: Phone: 95 253 61 56-58 Autos Marinsa S.L. Adversament Rent a Car, S.L. Avda. García Morato, 18 Azucarera Intelhorce, 66 RIOGORDO: 29004 Málaga Pog. Indust. Guadalhorce Phone: 95 273 22 11- 659 156 847 Phone: 95 223 23 04 29004 Málaga Phone: 902 18 20 28 RONDA: Centauro Rent a Car, S.L. Phone: 95 287 23 16 Avda. García Morato, s/n - Terminal, 2 Europcar, IB-S.A. 29004 Málaga Carril de San Isidro, 3 TORRE DEL MAR: Phone: 95 217 74 50 29004 Málaga Phone: 95 254 00 16 Phone: 95 217 44 59 Crown Car Hire (Invaral, S.A) TORROX: Avda. García Morato, 3 Avisedf. Avis Phone: 95 253 03 52 29004 Málaga Ctra. Aeropuerto, Km. 0.5 Phone: 95 224 67 18 29006 Málaga VÉLEZ MÁLAGA: Phone: 95 223 88 42 Phone: 95 250 28 96 Helle Hollis Car Rental. Avda. García Morato, 14-16 Mocar Autorent, S.L. VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS: 29004 Málaga C/ Cuevas Bajas, 25 - 27 Grupo de Taxis Phone: 95 224 55 44 Phone: 95 210 53 00 C/ Archidona, s/n Phone: 952 74 33 11 / 65 481 46 87

196 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Useful Information Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil Niza Cars, S.L. Espacar-Rent a Car Sdad. Coop. Industrial AutoSol Avda. García Morato, 44 Avda. Litoral s/n C/ Antonio de Nebrija, 37 29004 Málaga Estepona Torremolinos Phone: 95 223 61 84 Phone: 95 279 29 35 Phone: 95 238 02 95

Automóviles Portillo Haro Rent a Car Avda. de Velásquez, 94 Urb. El Pilar Km 166 PARKING AREAS Phone: 95 224 73 13 Estepona You will find parking areas in all the villages Phone: 95 288 36 37 you visit. Most districts have SARE (parking Autocares Andalucía spaces in the streets, signalled in blue on the Carril de la Serrería, 24 TORREMOLINOS: pavement) and also parking sites for free on Phone: 95 223 23 49 Autos Benelux most streets. Avda. Carlota Alessandri, 204 Cargest Torremolinos ALMÁCHAR: Avda. García Morato, 32 Phone: 95 238 57 12 Paseo de la Axarquía is the only area you can 95 217 35 20 park your car. Bravo Holiday Cars, S.L OTHER CAR RENTALS Avda. Manuel Fraga Iribarne, 25 Nave E ANTEQUERA: ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE: Torremolinos There are parking spaces in Diego Ponce Limousines Premier Phone: 95 237 76 86 street, Fernández Viaga square, Lucena, Urb. Pinos de Alhaurín Infante Don Fernando, Carretero, Encarnación Alhaurín de la Torre Caramba Car and La Alameda streets, and Paseo de María Phone: 902 11 96 92 C/ Ramal-Hoyo, 7-70 Cristina. Torremolinos ESTEPONA: Phone: 95 237 65 17 BENAOJÁN: Benamara Car Rent, S.L. Parking spaces are available in San Marco Crta. N.340 Km 167-Urb. Paraiso Barronal Dragon Car Hire square and also in the village's streets. Local 1º,Parcela 2, Estepona C/ Poeta Salvador Rueda, 29 Phone: 95 288 88 08 Fuengirola Phone: 95 247 53 60

197 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Useful Information Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil COMARES: TOURIST OFFICES Parking spaces are available in Balcón de la All the villages in the province have tourist Axarquía square and Málaga Avenue. offices, where they will provide information on the tourist attractions in the area. CÓMPETA: There are parking spaces in Axarquía square. ALAMEDA: Town Hall MÁLAGA CITY: Plaza de España, 5 Parking areas: There are three municipal Phone: 95 271 00 25 parking areas and also SARE parking spaces (signalled in blue on the pavement) in the old ALFARNATE: quarter. Town Hall Parking areas: Central parking area in De la Plaza de la Constitución, 1 Marina square, opposite the port; in Tejón y RONDA: Phone: 95 275 90 28 Rodríguez street; and Alcazaba, in La There are different parking areas: Blas Infante, Alcazaba square. De la Merced square, Del Socorro square and ALFARNATEJO: SARE: The SARE 30 signal indicates that you Lauría street. Town Hall can park your car on the blue lines for 30 C/ Feria, 2 minutes. In central Málaga, they are located in TORROX: Phone: 95 275 92 86 Del Teatro square and Atarazanas street. The You can park your car in the Fair's area, SARE signal indicates you can park there up to Almanzor square and Cómpeta avenue. ALMÁCHAR 90 minutes for 1.50 euros. Municipal Tourist Office VÉLEZ MÁLAGA: C/ Almería, 14 MOCLINEJO: You can park your car in the so-called Phone: 95 251 20 02 You can par your car in Calvario street and in Pozancón area, in the public parking area near De la Pasión avenue. the City Hall, in the parking by San Antonio de ANTEQUERA: Padua's Church, in Málaga lane and in the Tourist Office MOLLINA: parking near the City Indoor Pool. Plaza de San Sebastián, 7 Parking is allowed in every street in the village. Phone: 95 270 25 05

198 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Useful Information Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil ARCHIDONA: COLMENAR: MÁLAGA CAPITAL: Municipal Tourist Office Town Hall Tourist Office Pasaje Ochavada, 2 Plaza de España, 9 (Govt. of Andalusia) Phone: 95 271 64 79 Phone: 95 273 00 00 Pasaje Chinitas, 4 Phone: 95 221 34 45 / 95 260 61 93 ARDALES: COMARES: Municipal Tourist Office Municipal Tourist Office Municipal Tourist Office Phone: 95 206 13 80 Avenida de Málaga s/n C/ Real, s/n Calle Echegaray, 2 Phone: 95 245 80 46 Phone: 95 250 93 13 Málaga Airport Tourist Office (Govt. of Andalusia) BENAMOCARRA: CÓMPETA: Avda. García Morato, s/n Municipal Tourist Office Municipal Tourist Office Phone: 95 224 37 84 Plaza del Calvario, s/n Avda. Constitución s/n Bus Terminal Municipal Tourist Office Phone 95 253 56 12 Phone: 95 255 36 85 Paseo de los Tilos, s/n Phone: 95 235 00 61 CARRATRACA: EL BORGE: Town Hall Town Hall MOCLINEJO: C/ Glorieta, 2 Plaza de la Constitución, 1 Town Hall Phone: 95 245 80 16 Phone: 95 251 20 33 Plaza de España, 7 Phone: 95 240 05 86 CASABERMEJA: FUENTE PIEDRA: Tourist Office Tourist Office MOLLINA: Phone: 95 275 82 59 C/ Ancha, s/n Town Hall Phone: 95 273 54 53 C/ Villa, 3 CASARABONELA: Phone: 95 274 00 44 Tourist Office HUMILLADERO: Calle Real, 5 Town Hall Phone: 95 245 60 67 Avda. del Emigrante, 1 Phone: 95 273 70 23

199 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Useful Information Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil PERIANA: VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS: HEALTHCARE CENTRES Town Hall Town Hall In any health or safety emergency, please call Plaza de Andalucía, 1 C/ Constitución, 16 112, the toll-free European emergency phone Phone: 95 253 61 67 Phone: 95 274 30 02 number. The operator will transfer your call to the relevant institution. This is a 24-hour RIOGORDO: VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO: service and they speak Spanish, French and Town Hall Town Hall German. There are also healthcare centres Plaza de la Constitución, 14 Plaza de España, 9 that will assist you in case of an emergency in Phone: 95 273 21 54 Phone: 95 274 22 63 all the districts included in the routes.

RONDA: VILLANUEVA DEL TRABUCO: ALAMEDA: Municipal Tourist Office Town Hall Healthcare Centre Plaza de España, 9 Plaza del Prado, 1 C/ Enmedio, 68 Phone: 95 218 71 19 Phone: 95 275 10 21 Phone: 95 271 05 66 - 10 86

TEBA: ALFARNATE: Town Hall Healthcare Centre Plaza de la Constitución, 13 C/ Federico García Lorca, s/n Phone: 95 274 80 20 Phone: 95 275 92 40

TORROX COSTA: ALFARNATEJO: Municipal Tourist Office Physician's Office Centro Internacional, Bl. 79, bajo C/ Feria, 2 Phone: 95 253 02 25 Phone: 95 275 94 34

VÉLEZ MÁLAGA: ALMÁCHAR: Municipal Tourist Office Physician's Office Avda. de Andalucía, 119 Phone: 95 251 20 83 Phone: 95 254 11 04 C/ Real, s/n

200 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Useful Information Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil ALMÁCHAR: CASABERMEJA: FUENTE PIEDRA: Physician's Office Consultorio Médico Healthcare Centre C/ Eugenia Ríos C/ Llanas, 4 Camino de la Estación, s/n Phone: 95 251 20 83 Phone: 95 275 82 59 Phone: 95 273 50 01

ANTEQUERA: CASARABONELA: HUMILLADERO: Antequera Hospital Healthcare Centre Healthcare Centre Phone: 95 106 16 00 Avenida Juan XXIII, s/n C/ Capitán Velasco, 7 Outpatients' Department Phone: 95 245 65 59 Phone: 95 273 75 84 Phone: 95 284 29 29 COLMENAR: MOCLINEJO: ARCHIDONA: Healthcare Centre Healthcare Centre Healthcare Centre Ctra. de Riogordo, s/n C/ Castillo, 13 C/ Camino del Santuario, s/n Phone: 95 273 03 51 Phone: 95 240 05 76 Phone: 95 271 45 50 COMARES: MOLLINA: ARDALES: Physician’s Office Healthcare Centre Healthcare Centre C/ Real, s/n Avenida El Limonar s/n C/ Real, 10 Phone: 95 250 92 84 Phone: 95 274 01 36 Phone: 95 245 82 75 CÓMPETA: PERIANA: BENAMOCARRA: Healthcare Centre Healthcare Centre Healthcare Centre C/ San Antonio, 156 C/ Paseo Bellavista, s/n C/ Zarzuela, 4 Phone: 95 251 60 89 Phone: 95 253 61 76 Phone: 95 250 95 79 EL BORGE: RIOGORDO: CARRATRACA: Physician’s Office Physician’s Office Healthcare Centre C/ República, s/n C/ Fátima, s/n C/ Carril, s/n Phone: 95 251 20 75 Phone: 95 273 21 36 Phone: 95 245 80 92

201 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Useful Information Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil RONDA: VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO: "Santa Bárbara" Ronda-South Healthcare Healthcare Centre Centre Plaza Nueva del Saucedo, s/n C/ San Vicente de Paúl, s/n Phone: 95 274 27 77 Phone: 95 106 56 23-24 Ronda-North Healthcare Centre VILLANUEVA DEL TRABUCO: C/ Espinillos, s/n Healthcare Centre Phone: 95 287 69 75 C/ Bernardo Caro, s/n Phone: 95 275 19 08 TEBA: Physician’s Office C/ Nueva, 5 CURRENCY AND BANKING Phone: 95 274 82 89 The Spanish unit of currency is the euro. There are a lot of Banks and Savings Banks where TORROX: you will find ATMs that accept international Healthcare Centre credit cards. C/ Calzada, s/n Phone: 95 253 86 01 Banking hours: Mon-Sat, from 08:30 to 14:00, except for May, June, July, August and VÉLEZ MÁLAGA: September, when banks are closed on Vélez - Málaga Regional Hospital Saturdays. Savings Banks close at 14:15 and Finca El Tomillar, s/n are closed on Saturdays. Phone: 95 106 70 00 Urgencias: 95 106 70 21

VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS: Healthcare Centre C/ Las Flores, 1 Phone: 95 274 34 90

202 www.visitcostadelsol.com index editorial . Useful Information Málaga, Sun, Wine and Olive Oil