PROGRAMME 6 ENGLAND's LAST BATTLE: the WEST COUNTRY Introduction
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PROGRAMME 6 ENGLAND’S LAST BATTLE: THE WEST COUNTRY Introduction With Dorset, Devon and Somerset as the brilliant backdrop, this walk brings to life the events of the Monmouth Rebellion of 1685. You can view the rebellion as a coda to the English Civil War or the very first step towards the Glorious Revolution of 1689. One thing is certain though - it led to Sedgemoor, the very last pitched battle ever to take place on English soil. From Dorset’s Jurassic Coast to the battlefield on the Somerset Levels, this walk sticks largely to the route taken by the charismatic Duke of Monmouth and his rebel army on their march to Sedgemoor and their final stand against the army of James II. .Walking Through History Day 1 Starting at the seaside village of Charmouth, we kick off along the South West Coast Path, through Lyme Regis where the Duke of Monmouth arrived from Holland. The afternoon is spent walking the Undercliff as far as the mouth of the River Axe. Charmouth to Axmouth, via Lyme Regis (with option of Golden Cap) Distance: 9 miles (15 miles with Golden Cap) Day 2 Today is largely spent zig-zagging up the route of the Axe Valley, starting with a visit to the quaint but rebellious town of Colyton, before moving on to the busier market and railway town of Axminster. We then leave the river and climb the East Devon hills to a high point at Bewley Down where the rebel army camped before dropping down into Somerset and an overnight stop at Chard. Axmouth to Chard, via Colyton, Axminster and Bewley Down Distance: 19 miles Day 3 The River Isle guides us north towards Ilminster, before we head west across the gentle Black Down Hills, following in the footsteps of the rebels to Somerset’s county town – Taunton. We overnight by the River Tone on the outskirts of Taunton at Creech St Michael. Chard to Creech St Michael Distance: 20 miles (24 miles with Ilminster and Dillington Estate) Day 4 The final day kicks off along the Bridgwater and Taunton Canal, heading for the town of Bridgwater where Monmouth and the rebels spent their final nights. Then it’s out across the Somerset Levels following the route taken in the dark by the rebel army, on their way to confront the king’s troops near Westonzoyland village. From there, there’s an optional stroll to a final vista and a moment to reflect at the evocative Burrow Mump. Creech St Michael to Westonzoyland, via Bridgwater Distance: 16 miles (20 miles with additional visit to Burrow Mump) Please use OS Explorer Maps 116, 128 and 140 (1:25k) or OS Landranger Maps 193 and 182 (1:50k). All distances are approximate. 2 .Walking Through History Day 1 – Places of Interest.s Charmouth to Axmouth, via Lyme Regis Distance: 9 miles (15 miles with Golden Cap) Today can be an easily accomplishable stroll along the South West Coast Path, lingering a little in Charmouth and Lyme Regis. But for those who can’t resist a challenge, there is Golden Cap. On a fine day, the views are spectacular. The Cap can be easily reached along the Coast Path from Charmouth. Simply follow signs heading east out of the village before returning to Charmouth the same way. The Trouble with Charles… To understand the Monmouth Rebellion, we need to understand a little about the West Country and the big issues of the late 17th century. The West Country at that time was a hotbed of anti-establishment sentiment, both in politics and religion. Many of the towns and villages had supported the parliamentarians in the civil war of 1642 and 1651. Like most of the country, the population was mainly protestant but the West Country in particular had witnessed an explosion of ‘protestant dissent’ as communities turned against the established Church of England. These non-conformists had thrived during the interregnum under the puritan Oliver Cromwell but had been persecuted since the Restoration of 1660, as Charles II sought to strengthen his rule through a re-invigorated Anglican Church. But if there was one thing worse than being forced to adhere to the established Church, it was the prospect that that Church might soon be Catholic. Charles II was justifiably rumoured to be a secret Catholic... Meanwhile, his brother and heir, James Duke of York, was a fully signed- up Catholic. And that spelled trouble. From the Coast Heritage Centre and café on Charmouth Beach, we follow the South West Coast Path signs west towards Lyme Regis. Don’t be surprised when your route swings inland quite markedly. Recent cliff falls between Charmouth and Lyme mean the path is constantly having to be re-routed. Signage is nearly always very clear and up to date however along this well-used National Trail. The present route (autumn 2014) takes you across Lyme Regis Golf Club and through woods to some excellent views down on Lyme and the Cobb as you approach the town. 3 .Walking Through History James Duke of Monmouth In February 1685, Charles II died suddenly and the events of this walk swiftly took off as Catholic James II ascended the throne. Even before Charles’ death, two potential protestant alternatives to James had become apparent. One was William of Orange, ruler of what we now know as the Netherlands. In the interconnected world of European rulers, he was not only James II’s nephew, but also his son-in-law by virtue of his marriage to James’ daughter Mary. The other candidate was James, Duke of Monmouth – the illegitimate son of Charles II via a short-lived romance with a beautiful welsh girl called Lucy Walter. An illegitimate son would never normally be a credible heir, but Monmouth had proved himself a hero on the battlefield, and a populist figure that the anti-Catholic movement could unite behind. His supporters boosted Monmouth’s credentials by spreading rumours that his parents had actually been married. They also encouraged Monmouth to make an immediate strike against the new king. Lyme Regis is a bustling seaside town with a wealth of history and attractions. Look out for Monmouth Street – believed to be the site of a former hotel where the Duke slept – and the Town Hall where men from all over the area were recruited to join Monmouth’s rebel army. Head through town to the Cobb area. Just beyond Lyme’s most famous feature - the 14th century harbour - is the rather stony Monmouth Beach. A Rebellion Begins Just four months after his father Charles II’s death, the Duke of Monmouth sailed up the channel from his base in Holland on a mission to topple his uncle James II. He left Holland at the very end of May 1685, accompanied by a 32-gun frigate, two fishing vessels and just 83 men. He approached Lyme on 11 June, but had little idea what kind of reception he would receive. He was aware that the Cobb had been fortified with cannon since the time of Henry VIII, so he prudently sailed around the enclosed harbour and landed on the open beach just to the west, now known as Monmouth Beach. Upon landing, he theatrically kissed the ground and unfurled his banner which read ‘Fear Nothing But God’. The locals quickly recognized Monmouth as their protestant champion and cheered his arrival. It’s said that 60 men pledged their support straight away. Monmouth soon made a public declaration of his intention to free the country from the tyrant and usurper, James Duke of York, and over the next four days nearly 1500 more men from the local area joined what was now a genuine rebel army. 4 .Walking Through History Make sure you’re stocked up with water and snacks as once we leave Lyme; there’s very little until we reach Axmouth almost six miles away. The National Trust land known as The Wares is the best exit point from Lyme (and the point at which we pass into Devon), leading us back on the South West Coast Path and through the distinctive undergrowth of the Undercliff. This is a stretch of coast much changed since 1685. Several massive landslides, most famously in 1839, have created a new and almost untouched ecosystem along a ‘walker’s platform’ halfway between Devon-proper and the crashing sea below. Why the West Country? Five years before the rebellion, in the summer of 1680, the Duke of Monmouth had carried out a profile- raising ‘PR tour’ of the West Country. It was orchestrated by his great mentor and promoter the Earl of Shaftesbury. Shaftesbury was a political heavyweight and leader of the non-conformist movement during Charles II’s reign. By 1685, Shaftesbury was dead, but without him it’s highly unlikely that Monmouth would have had the profile or credibility needed to launch the rebellion. Monmouth’s tour was a massive success and saw him courting the hospitality of almost every influential landowner between Bath and Exeter. He was welcomed as a royal figure, and a hero following his defeat of the Dutch at the Siege of Maastricht. More importantly he was confirmed as a serious alternative to the king’s hated Catholic brother – the future James II. In 1685, Monmouth was simply returning to where he believed his support was strongest. We keep the sea firmly on our left until we’ve passed across the Axe Cliff Golf Course and down almost as far as the river mouth itself. Then simply turn right and follow the estuary to Axmouth.